How do I test poly-tarp to see if it is UV proof? Answered

I have a canopy structure/carport that I wish to use as a wind and sun shelter for Burning Man, but I don't know if it's UV proof (I no longer have the box and the instruction book calls it a "canopy" not a "carport" and doesn't mention UV at all). The cover is white polyethylene tarp, which has to be specially treated for UV protection, I think. Does anyone know of a simple way to test for UV protection?

Question by kyle.marsh 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Best way to create additional outdoor storage space?

What's the best way to convert a huge backyard into additional storage space... I was thinking of tarpaulin but most brands are not made for prolonged sunlight? I can pick up a $200 tarp of 7 x 9 metres to do the job.. just wondering if anyone has better ideas?

Question by Genghoidal 10 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Cheap knit material that is waterproof? or a way to make a knit material (like "tee" shirt fabric) waterproof? Answered

I am designing a cover for a kayak and having a stretchy, waterproof cover would make the other parts of the design a whole lot easier.

Question by drdunc1000 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


How to make a ice rink with multiple tarps? Answered

Hi I was wondering if there is a way to build a backyard ice rink with four 9 by 12 tarps?

Question by camping crazy 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


can I glue nylon sheets instead of sewing?

I want to make a tarp but don't want to stitch the waterproof (pu coated) nylon. Has anyone tried glue or welding with a hot domestic iron?

Question by stillalive 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


How can I get about a tarps worth of tyvek? Answered

I go camping with a hammock, so i need a tarp to make the rain fly. I recently realized tyvek would be a very good material to make into a tarp because its waterproof, light and ripproof. But I have no idea where I could get some cheap and in small quantities. Thanks

Question by hydrnium.h2 9 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


How can I build a small, cheap, water-proof, strong wooden outpost-style shed for my backyard? Answered

I'm looking for one person in particular for his great advice.  His name is Lemony.  I plan to build this thing this summer with my friend.  I want it to have windows and a door.  I also need a way to fold this up when empty (needs to be sturdy, yet have no side supports (needs hinges)) and a way to attach tarp with hooks. EDIT:I need other people than just Lemony!!!

Question by bendog38 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


need ideas for a sailing kayak

hello everybody with the weather getting warmer down here in the south eastern U.S. my friend has invited me to go camping/kayaking with him and his family i have been kayaking with my friend's family before and had a great time but when we would race kayaks the girls (my friends sister and her friend) would always beat us (the guys) unmercifully mainly because the girls had the 2 person kayak and therefore more people power now this time i need a secret weapon and while i was thinking along the lines of torpedoes and surface to surface missiles i eventually ruled them out due to the danger aspect but then i got the idea i was looking for you see the objective is to get from point A to point B before the opposition not destroy the opposition then get from point A to point B at my own pace so i decided i would need to be able to travel at a faster rate than the girls so what i am thinking of is a sail now here is the challenge i am unable to make any modifications what so ever to the actual kayak so strapping a outboard motor on the kayak is out this leaves me with the idea of making a sail out of a few tent poles and a tarp but since i do not  know much about kayaks i need to know these things 1. how can the sail be anchored to the kayak without damaging or permanently altering the kayak in anyway 2. any ideas on how i can steer i have a few but i would like to hear yours also i have looked at the project sailyak by zigzagchris https://www.instructables.com/id/Project-SailYak/  and while this is helpful i need more specifics as mentioned above thank you, fidgety2

Topic by fidgety2 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Is there a glue that will permanently bond a polyethelene tarp and be waterproof ? Answered

I was looking for some type of glue that is fairly cheap and will toughly bond polyethelene tarp that i will use to make my homeade range tent it needs to hold well be waterproof and foldable to fold with the tent.

Question by camping crazy 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


How can i make an outdoor mosquito free enclose? Answered

I already have a mosquito net. It is made specifically for mosquitos, but here's the twist. The enclose that i want it around is somewhat deep in the woods, and it is a tarp fort. The fort is made out of a tarp that is in between two trees and it is slanted. It's pretty much just a right triangle.  Pretty much all that i am asking is how to seal up the gaps in between the netting and the tarp.

Question by ducktape.mac 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Should I enclose an outdoor roofed area with tarps?

I bought a house with a roofed area in the back yard.  There is a concrete slab (approx 10X20), and a metal roof about 12-15 ft high.  The roof only covers half of the slab, and I plan to put a small prefab metal shed where the slab extends.  I'd like to use the roofed area as a pseudo-workshop, but because the roof is so high, rain blows under pretty easy.  In a perfect world, I'd extend the roof and wall in the whole thing, but I ain't rollin' in money like that, so a shed for storage, and a dry work area is good enough.  My question is whether or not its feasible to hang tarps as "walls."  I know it won't be super permanent, but I'd like them to last a reasonable amount of time.  I was thinking of securing them on the four posts by sandwiching them with 1" x 4"s, because I don't trust grommits and twine to hold in wind.  What kind of tarps and hanging methods would be ideal for this, or would there be a better alternative I haven't thought of?

Question by OtisDrftwood 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


I'm trying to make a sail with tarpaulin. What can i use to sew and/or glue the tarps together? Answered

I'm trying to put together two polyethylene tarps together for a makeshift sail i'm working on. I've looked at some spray adhesives but I've never used them before an am not sure how much i can trust them. What are some spray adhesives i could use? I'm looking for something that is extremely strong and waterproof (i'd be great if it's UV resistant too). I'm thinking i'll also hand stitch it too just to add extra strength - any advise there?  Thanks

Question by Aaron Cole 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


How to put wood exterior on a round-top ShelterLogic shed?

The tarp on my 5-year-old round-top ShelterLogic shed ripped off. I would like to know how I could put wood on the exterior rather than buying a replacement tarp. I do not want to actually "build" a shed due to zoning laws and such. My thought was to attach C-clamps but unsure if this would work. Any ideas out there??? Thanks.  

Question by doityourselfer6 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


I have a few questions about a compost bin made out of pallets.

 (1) I live in new york and its pretty humid and it rains occasionally. would it help to put a tarp over it to keep out the rain? Because ive heard that it (the rain) can drain nutrients into the soil. (2) would the compost decompose the pallets?. (3) would it help to staple tarp or plastic to the out side?  (the compost bin is the pallet compost bin by kootsman)

Question by Greenguyh2o 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


Making A Lock? 2.0

My first question was for a wooden box. This one asks: Can someone please help me by giving me tips on making a lock for a door? I want to lock up my tool shed, as it has a door, covered in tarp. The tarp keeps the rain out, if you are wondering, because the door is wood and chicken wire. Help, please? There's so many clever people at Instructables I know I'll get good answers. I have a pen cap and a bobby pin, if that helps. Thank Ya'll TN777

Question by TN777 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Secret Resource: Waterproofing!

Everywhere I look, people are throwing out umbrellas. I've started scavenging the skins and (in rainy England) sewing them onto *everything*. It's great. There are tons of umbrellas that break, etc. and are thrown out every day. You can sew them together to make a big tarp, make a cover for your bag/laptop, etc. Wonderful!

Topic by stasterisk 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


are capri sun pouches UV resistant?

after reading the capri sun welding instructable i was thinking of making an outdoor tarp out of them to cover my lawnmowers. maybe even putting it on the roof in summer to reflect heat and reduce cooling costs. my kids love these things so i have a lot of them.

Question by dannemillerd 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


How to build a hut?

I am setting up a table for international day and my group is representing the Darfur Refugees. I am in charge of making a hut/tent that resembles the conditions that the refugees have to live in. I have some scrap metal lying around and tarps and stuff, but I have no building skills. How should I go about making the hut?

Question by 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


I just built a home hockey rink. The water finds it's way around the outside of my boards and tarp. Any help?

I used 2 x 12 boards and wrapped my tarp/liner on the outside. But I only wrapped it 2-3 inches.   I thought wrapping the liner on the outside would be best so it didn't get beat up by my little hockey players.  But in the end, it appears I needed to wrap it all the way up on the boards.  It leaks up on the low side and drains. I thought it would the water would freeze up against the board and form a "seal".   But it does not.  It appears to be a major problem.  I am thinking of taping another strip of plastic along each side, using snow/ice duct tape.  But I'm worried about it not sealing.  Any ideas on how to fix my problem would be greatly appreciated.  I don't want to/can't start over.  Thanks!

Question by KurtD 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Bed hammock from the ceiling? Answered

Hey, I'm looking to add a hammock in my bonus room. I am going to use a tarp for the base and a comforter as a cover. My only question is, how can I hang a hammock you can sleep in into the ceiling or these corners? Here is the room: http://cl.ly/1g271c3I0b1i2i1s392Z/IMG_3513.JPG http://cl.ly/2f3K0s2Q3E0F072M1G3y/IMG_3512.JPG

Question by dpagek 7 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


what are the best fiberglass boat hull cleaning ideas?

Just purchased an older Rinell inboard boat. Hull is fiberglass and in very nice shape but i want to clean and polish it before shutting down for the winter. It is on a trailer and will be stored under a tarp for the winter. With sooo many products on the market can someone with experience tell me which product will clean up the hull and what product to then wax it with. Thank you in advance. John

Question by johnatwork 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Banksy Puts Up Huge Piece Next to CCTV Camera

Graffiti artist Banksy has pulled off an epic stunt by painting a three-story piece in London. Using the best approach of acting naturally, he was able to put up scaffolding, hide the work behind a tarp, and then take it ll down to reveal what he did. And all of it was right next to a CCTV camera. Nice! Link via Neatorama

Topic by fungus amungus 11 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


looking for ideas for easy, inexpensive homemade beach sun shade?

Maybe with a tarp, PVC pipe, and some kind of twine/nylon cord?  looking to pick up the materials while on a budget vacation in Florida (staying with family) at the end of May.  Not sure if this will be something I can/will bring on the plane back home.  don't want to cause problems with airport security or have to check a bag.  Really want to avoid being crispy fried.  ideas please?

Question by tdyts2 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Centre drill without a lathe

Can anyone suggest a simple way to accurately drill a hole in the end of a dowel so that it's perfectly centred and parallel to the sides? I want to install hardware in two brush shafts to make a break-down pole that will support a tarp, and will fit in a car boot. If you imagine the brass hardware you see in a snooker cue, you'll get the idea. I could make a jig to hold, and align, the drill and dowel but it's a lot of fuss for a rig I probably won't ever use again.

Topic by barista 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Storing Elastic Cargo Nets?

Anyone know a way to store those elastic cargo nets that look like a spider web made out of bungee cords? The net always gets twisted around & through itself and the hooks do their best to make sure it stays that way! The best way I've come up with so far is to stretch it out on an old towel, piece of tarp or something similar that's about the same size as the net and then roll them up together like a giant Taquito. But that's pretty bulky, especially if you have several. Better ideas?

Question by wadespen 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


How do I lower the water level in my pool without removing salt at the same time?

Every year to winterize my pool I lower the water level below the skimmer by pumping water out of the pool.  Since I switched to salt, this means I will be pumping about 120kg of salt out as well which I would like to save for economic and environmental reasons. How do I drop the water level but retain the salt in the remaining water in the pool? Reverse Osmosis? Large black tarp that will allow evaporation of the water and trap the salt? Get creative.

Question by derekmjenkins 8 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Fuse Sheet Plastic to Wood

Not long ago, someone was lookin for solution to waterproofin wood box. Can't find it at the moment. Maybe someone else can find that thread. My experiment: Hot clothes iron                          [][][][][] 4 layers paper towel              ------------------                                                   ----------------                                                    ----------------                                                    ------------------- 1 layer wax paper                    ____________ 2 layers clear plastic tarp        ============== Block of 2x4                             [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[] The layers of plastic fused pretty strongly together.  Bond to the wood was moderately weak. This could be done with multiple layers, and only  the lowest layer stapled to wood. Thus achieving strong bond to wood, yet no leak at staples since only 1 layer is punctured.

Topic by Toga_Dan 4 years ago


How might I thresh barley to make beer??

I have a patch of 2-row barley growing, thickly. When ready I can mow with my tractor-mounted sickle bar mower. But how can I thresh the grain from the straw so it will still sprout, to make malt for my home brewed beer? I tried an unpowered reel lawnmower, didn't work. This year I expect to try running my snowblower on slow, using tarps to catch grain. But I expect I could construct a small thresher, Powered or not? Prefer hand power to grow my own beer.

Question by 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


How can I thresh my barley to make beer?

I have a patch of 2-row barley growing, thickly. When ready I can mow with my tractor-mounted sickle bar mower. But how can I thresh the grain from the straw so it will still sprout, to make malt for my home-brewed beer? I tried an unpowered reel lawnmower, didn't work. This year I expect to try running my snowblower on slow, using tarps to catch grain. But I expect I could construct a small thresher, Powered or not? Prefer hand power to grow my own beer.

Question by 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


What should I use for a hovercraft fan?

I have all the necessary building materials (wood, plastic tarp, foam, etc...) as well as a 22 hp engine and a weed whacker engine (both gasoline). I'm having trouble figuring out what i need in terms of a lifting fan. I've determined that i need something that can provide at least 4000cfm. I've looked at industrial shop fans 20+ inches in diameter which seem to provide enough airflow to work, but I've never seen them used in my research. Can anyone help?

Question by Transience 9 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


How do u get dogs to start going outside to go to the bathroom? They have dog yard and doggie door to get out to it.?

I have six small dogs. I'm having problems with them going to the bathroom inside instead of going out to there dog yard we have for them. We have a doggie door for them. We leave the light on at night and even tarped a area in case it rains. They seem to only do it at night and not all the time. We moved into a new house and took out the carpet and put new floors in. After that they started. How can i fix this and save my floors? I'm a big animal lover , but this is driving me nuts. Thanks Jennifer

Question by jennyksva 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Modding a Lawnmower into a Shredder / Mulcher

Hello everyone. I have a simplelawnmower with a briggs 6HP motor. I want to use it to shred/grind aged horse manure compost in the easiest way possible. The mower has a side shoot, but it has a spring loaded trap door covering it right now. It also has a trap door for a back discharge bag, which is also closed and I don't have the bag, I have thought of 2 options for this myself. 1) Cut a hole in the sheet metal base of the mower beside the motor, on the left hand side if you were pushing the mower, so that I can shovel in the manure.. Cover the bottom of the mower under the blades with 1/4 - 1/2" hardware cloth. Elevate mower off the ground on cinder blocks over tarp. Hoping it would shoot the shredded mulch out the bottom, through the metal hardware cloth onto the tarp to be collected. Problems I foresee : If the regular discharge outlet on the right side of the mower blows grass out, will my hole i cut in the left side of the mower suck inward, or also blow out? Obviously this wouldn't work if the area I'm trying to shovel in is blasting air out. Would the shredded compost be blown downward? It's really the only place for it to go except the hole I would be shoveling in at. This is the simplest way I can think of. I would prefer to do something like this. Perhaps if it wouldnt work stock like this then I could maybe reverse the blade? I don't have a welder, btw. 2) Much cooler option but I dont really have the time, material, or know how would be to run a pulley to a seperate trash can with its own blade at the bottom and wire mesh under that. Any idears?

Topic by sandman420 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Giant Slip 'n' Slide?

Hey Guys     I'm graduating high school in two weeks and my friend and I were talking about something to do the day after finals. I brought up doing a Slip n Slide down a nearby sledding hill. I found a site that has some basic information on the hill. It's 200-300 feet long and has a 60 degree slope. Yeah pretty steep haha. So here's what I need to know: What is a good material for this slide that will hold together but is still relatively cheap? Tarps were the original idea but I was told menards may have large rolls of plastic you can roll down a hill. What is the best combination to get the slide slippery? We dont have access to water so we'll be bringing just enough in garbage cans to wet it down. So what kind of soap or lubricant is best for the slide? It would help if it didn't burn afterwards! Thanks for the help in advance. Picture of the hill in winter  3.bp.blogspot.com/_ymkfNB3shbw/R1sBuKwdScI/AAAAAAAAAUU/JD8auciBxMM/s400/sled22.jpg

Topic by Blinktwice 9 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


How can I make a cart that lowers to slide heavy bags on and also slide them into the bed of a tall pickup truck?

Background: My yard has an incredible ability to create a forest's worth of leaves and branches despite having only a small number of trees. This has led to me developing an irrational dislike of Autumn. To make matters worse, I have no place to put the leaves and my town doesn't provide curbside pickup - I have to bring them to a recycling center. I fight this battle with a lawn suck device (leaf vacuum for those uncomfortable with technical terms) and these huge bags made of tarp material. My back is performing sub-optimally lately so I need to get creative. Issue: I'd like to build a cart that will allow me to slide these giant and often heavy bags on without lifting and roll them over to where the truck is. I'd also like to be able to slide them into the bed of a tall pickup truck. I've thought about a cart that see-saws on large wheels but the angles would be too steep. Now for the degree of difficulty...I don't have a budget for a fancy solution. Can anyone help?

Question by mjb630 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Brand new 5.5hp engine/packer won't run?

Hey peeps, me again. My father recently put up a little shed (one with the frame and tarping) and he put a dirt floor in, and also we just put new gravel in the driveway after digging it all out. Well he's borrowing a packer from the construction company he works for, for packing the dirt down and possibly the driveway. It's got a brand new 5.5 honda utility engine on it (although it had a big lump of clay fall on the gas tank, it's nearly inverted :p ). We had it running last night but it was fluttering, we only had to move it so we never used it. Today, a whole different story, it sputterd for about 5 seconds and stopped. We (well me, he's just sitting here drinking) can't get it to work. I've cleaned the sparkplug. Pulled the gas tank off and completely emptied it out thinking maybe someone at work put diesel in it by accident or something. Put it all back together, and I got it to run for a couple second a few times. Also, I pulled the oil dipstick out, and it's one of those engines where it's not a verticl dipstick, it's basically diagonal, on a slant. And the tag that's still attached to the engine showed a diagram where it shows to check the oil, and showed where the oil level should be. Well Not the case, oil literally GUSHED out of the opening as soon as I opened it. (Long long post I know).. So I emptied the oil out so it wasn't "flowing" out of the hole (after this is when I got it to run a couple times). I'm so "fricken" confused. I know what I'm doing, just finished a advanced engine course. But what the fuck?! My last guess is perhaps change the oil (gas in it?!?). It's now 6:10pm and well basically no day left. I've spent all day tinkering with it. If anyone actually made it to the end of the post, I really need some help. Anyone have some ideas? Thanks in advanced

Topic by Punkguyta 12 years ago  |  last reply 12 years ago


Help!! It's 3am and I have a bubbling and squeaking battery!

Please help! I procured an electric wheelchair today (worn and torn, but in good shape.  It had 2 12v batteries, little smaller than an auto batt.  Didn't write down the amperage tho...The batteries were visually inspected for bowed or expanded sides, cracks, oxidation.  Everything appeared in order.  They have likely been sitting for some time.  Stupidly, I did not check electrolyte levels.  Oops.  Could easily be low.  I plugged the charger into the mainboard for 30 minutes, watching closely.  No issues, no overheating.  I left it for another 2 hours.  Again, no noticeable issues.  I tested the drive motors by controlling it around my driveway briefly. Power was very low.  It worked, but clearly lacked juice. I plugged the batts in for another 4 or 5 hours.  But after that time, I noticed a crackling/squealing (faint) sound.  As if pressure was escaping.  Bad news.  I had the chair chassis (and batts) in my workshop, and now I was afraid it may blow, contaminating everything.  The batteries feel warm. One more than the other. Beginning to panic, I threw on my goretex, respirator, goggles and gloves and carefully detached the battery cable from the main board.   I've never had one of this size blow, and have no idea what it could do.  very hesitantly, I rolled it into my garage, and closed the door.  Now I'm afraid to sleep, because I'm concerned about it. Is this Normal old battery behavior?  Could this be due to low electrolytes?  A small crack in the case?  Is there anything I can do besides wait?  I'm not real anxious to go too close for too long.  Is there anything I can do that would not increase hazard?  I'm about to throw a tarp over it, but is there a high flammability risk if a high amperage 12v were to blow? Guidance highly appreciated.  Thank you.

Topic by huck alexander 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


My lawnmower left me saying "WTF" this morning...

Well, here's the deal.. Last night I took the mower deck off my rider, sharpened the blades, re-attached them, made sure it ran fine, which it did, worked like it has been for the past 3 months, parked it in the tarp shed and went inside. Well this is what really really made me snap. I was happy with it because I just fixed the tire and thought "Thank fuckin god it's back and working again" as it had sat up on cinder blocks for the past 2 weeks due to flat tires. Morning comes, beautiful day out, grass to mow. I go to start it, takes a few times (I thought it was odd, but didn't think much of it) and get it started. Well some past history first, this machine was fixed at a mennonite repair shop a year ago or so because apparently there was a peice of dirt stuck in the hole that a supposed pin drops into when the machine shuts off to stop the gas flow from going into the engine when it's off. They put a valve on the gas line aswell, well after that, it never went down all the way on the throttle or it would just stall. Well this morning, it seemed to be completely the opposite, it idled fine at the lowest throttle setting (I had a really confused look at the time) and at full open, it ran horrible and the whole frame was shaking because it was going up and down (the reving I mean). I tried to cut grass with it, and it goes for about 5 meters and then nearly stalls (still hasn't for some reason, but just barely) and then starts running again and spews out a shitload of smoke for a few seconds. I tried to "run" it off and it didn't even drained the gas and put new gas in, that was a wasted $10 trip to the gas station.As of now, it's sitting out in my yard, I don't want to touch it because it's pissed me off enough. Also, I took the air filter off and it seems that at one point it was spewing gas up out of the air inlet. Can someone please help me?!? I need this machine running as I cut grass for people. I vowed to myself I would permantly park this thing if one more thing broke, but it's getting it's last chance.** Forgot to add, it's a 12hp brigs and straton (type H I think?), and manufactured by murry (I know..sad).Second update:Uhhh...it appears to be fine?? It ran ok today, a bit touchy, but it seems ok, can someone care to explain how the hell this happened????!?, scrap that, it's fuxxored again. Arg, I need it for my lawn cutting needs!

Topic by Punkguyta 11 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Ideal Energy/Battery Source for a Battery Powered Lamppost

Hello everyone,First time posting, so, thank you ahead of time for all your help!Project:I was tasked with creating an outdoor lamppost for an event at a campground (IE: no immediate electricity source). At first, it seemed quite simple, but, looking at the necessary requirements, it seems to be more complex than I thought. Requirements:I need to find a way to power a high-powered LED light bulb (ideally 12W equivalent) for 10 hours a day (for 3-4 nights - for a total of 30-40 hours) without immediate access to an electrical outlet. So, it would be around 20 watt hours a day. This battery source needs to be able to be outdoors, and face rain/weather. There may be a tarp, tent to cover it. I may have access to a generator to recharge my battery source at another location if need be.I currently have a bright DC 12V light bulb that would be ideal for this project, but, I could also use a AC light bulb if need be.Potential Solutions: Connected 6V Lantern Batteries: Connecting multiple lantern batteries together, and swapping them out on a daily basis. Walmart has a set of Rayovac Heavy-Duty Lantern Batteries for around $2.50 each. Pro: Connecting these batteries in parallel and series would give me the 20 ah, and 12v specs needed. \ It would come out to around $15 a day. Would be easy to put in a large water-proof container and connect to the lamppostCons: Bit wasteful - I'd burn through around 20 of these batteries, and would have to recycle/dispose of them Sealed? - Unsure if I could put them in a waterproof container. Do they need venting? Mid-range cost: Would come out to around $50-60 due to the number of batteries needed12V Deep-Cycle 20Ah+ Battery: A simple 20ah+ deep-cycle battery would provide me the DC power needed on a daily basis. I would then detach it during the day, and bring it to the generator to charge. Pro: Cost - Relatively cheap, at around $50, this battery option would be affordable Set it and Forget It - No need to connect multiple batteries together. This would just be an easy wiring job.Con: Venting - Unsure if I could place this in a simple waterproof container outside. Does it need to vent? Or, would a AGM deep-cycle battery be ok in a vent-free container? Recharging - Unlike the lantern batteries, I would need to bring this to a generator on a daily basis to recharge. Not the end of the world though.Ideas:I am vacillating between both options. Ideally I would like to go with the deep-cycle battery, but I am quite concerned with the venting problem. I don't believe the 6V batteries need to vent, so they could be placed in a simple container.Question(s): Does one of these solutions stand out more to you as the better fit? Are there other battery solutions that you think would work better? Do I need to use a deep-cycle battery, or would something like this battery work?Again, thank you ahead of time for any guidance you could provide!

Question by EddieGRA 11 months ago  |  last reply 11 months ago


Kite-powered proa (boat) collaboration/comments

Added 5/26/07: Please read the comments below to see how the project is evolving. Design specs, goals, etc, have been modified after discussion.Hi Folks,For several years I've been wanting to build a kite powered proa. A proa is a kind of boat with a narrow hull and a smaller outrigger. These Instructables are about building a proa with a traditional sail:https://www.instructables.com/id/ERIIBDCCOTEPUCHZ1K/?ALLSTEPShttps://www.instructables.com/id/EZN8M3OCWZEV2Z7IR5/?ALLSTEPSThese are kite-powered proa-like vehicles for land and ice:https://www.instructables.com/id/EPKZ5O80HQEQZJI20F/?ALLSTEPShttps://www.instructables.com/id/EPWWSYZNWIEV2ZKLCH/?ALLSTEPSGoals for the project:1. Make at least one good boat.2. Publish a good Instructable.3. Work with interesting people.I am definitely going ahead with #1 & #2. #3... anyone interested?The Boat: Generally it should be appealing/attainable by as wide a range of budgets and circumstances and skill levels as possible.a. It should be fun to mess around with starting in about 6 or 7 mph of wind (3 m/s).b. A beach boat, not an overnighter. Should be able to carry one or two people, a paddle, personal flotation device and maybe a sandwich and a water bottle.c. Storable in a typical apartment (maybe even a dorm room?). I'm thinking a 2-part bolt-together hull like Wade Tarzia's above. Two halves, each under 8 feet long so they can be stored on end, maybe used as bookshelves as suggested by TimAnderson. What is a typical ceiling height? Mine is about 91"d. Possible to build on a restricted budget ($200? is that possible? $400?). I'm budgeting about $500 but as a cheapskate packrat scrounger type I am hoping not to spend it all. Should also avoid necessitating rare and expensive tools.e. It should be possible to make a "good looking" version if the builder chooses.... sort of financially and chronologically(?) scalable. Someone might want to build something as quickly and cheaply as possible, and another person might want to spend all summer working on the fine details and finish. The boat should be worth building in either case.f. Should be able to take a passenger (is that possible if we rely on weight-shifting for steering?), but be sailable single-handed.g. Possibly be adaptable to a traditional sail? Would this be hard? This is something I don't need for myself, but I bet someone will ask that question as soon as we publish it. If someone doesn't already have a kite, is it easier to build a kite, or a sail and associated mods to the boat?h. Probably plywood stitch-and-glue construction main hull, but maybe carved from a couple of Styrofoam billets with a plywood stringer and/or deck? Leaning towards all plywood. If we fiberglass the whole boat can we use 1/4" interior luaun at $9 per 4x8 sheet? Is that more practical and cost effective than something like occume at $60 per sheet with glass on just the keel and joints? We'd need 3 sheets. Need to do some calculations on this.i. Usable in flat water, chop and small waves (and bigger waves?). Mine will be used mostly at an ocean beach.j. Steerable by weight-shifting, i.e. moving towards the front or back of the boat. No rudders or daggerboards. Maybe paddle-assisted steering when carrying a passenger/helmsman?The Instructable:a. Should be a good read, even for folks who won't undertake the project. b. Doubles as an Instructable on how to collaborate to make a great project and a great Instructable.c. Represents everyone involved in the project in some way.d. Gives the potential builder a rough "how to sail it" as well?e. Presents the reader with several options for materials and/or construction.f. All the regular "what makes a good Instructable" things.The Interesting People:a. Everyone is interesting in some way or another, right?b. Some people like to do research on the web.c. Some people have built boats.d. Some people some know about wood, or glue, or paint, or kites, or sails, or writing, or... e. Maybe someone will build the boat concurrently so we'll have pictures of two or more versions at various stages when we publish the Instructable.Let me be the first to sign up :) I have been using kites to get around fields, beaches, frozen lakes and the ocean for 10+ years. I make my own kite boards and have made my own kites (I use commercial kites now but still love my homemade plywood boards). I've done a fair amount of web research on proas and plywood boats (and some on tarp boats, canvas covered canoes, surfboards, etc.) but I have never built a boat. I experimented with a busted up, rudderless old hobie 14 for a while, but my homemade foot-steerable rudders broke almost instantly, and shortly after that I had to abandon the boat because I moved to a place where it couldn't be stored. It was enough to get me interested. I'm pretty confident I could build a usable boat as a solo project but I want to see how much better it could be as a collaboration, or at least having a few folks commenting on my ideas.I have a small assortment of cheap power tools. I've used epoxy and fiberglass a few times and I have some on hand.I have permission from my lovely bride-to-be to use part of the kitchen, part of the time, as my workshop (that's true love). I also have a small are outside where I can work but I can't leave anything there.The pictures are my initial hull ideas. For each hull one pic shows the hull from 3 angles and the other shows how the side pieces would fit on two sheets of plywood. A third sheet would be needed for the deck and a fourth (of thicker stuff, I would guess?) for the frames, bulkheads, etc. I'll attach the files for the hulls too. You can get the freeware to view and edit them at www.carlsondesign.com.The simple V hull would mean less cutting and joining. The other one looks better (in my opinion) and can float more weight with the same amount of plywood.Could instead go with a flat bottom like Wade's.Let me know what you think.Thanks!

Topic by flywoodkb 12 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago