tec power options

I was wondering where the best place to ask a question would be, ive been playin with peltiers lately and the ones i have are 0-16v 026A i was wondering if there was any way to make a power supply for them or some way to usa like a car batt. i was just worried as my deepcycle is like 1200 amp dont really want to blow up my 30 a piece tec's  the goal eventually is to mount like 10 to the undersides of an old aluminum icetray  so i can submerge the bottom in water and fill the tray up, flip the power switch and in like 40 seconds have myself some icecubes

Topic by furry1 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Limiting current?

Good day, I am interested in an effective way of limiting current for a TEC application. This application involves using the TEC's (12V @ 1A) to reduce the incoming air temperature in a noise isolating enclosure from ambient temp to about  5-10 deg C cooler. In doing some research on implementing the TEC's I have found that these units operate at their greatest efficiency around 1/3 of max amp input and lower when you do not have a large heat load to "pump" away. So all of this being said I would like to operate a number of TEC's at  this low amperage range, and to be able to cap their maximum current draw between .1 and .3 amp.  Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks

Question by MatthewSternbauer 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Stove fan problem - suggestions?

Hey guys I hope this is the right place to ask about this but apologies if not! I've got a home made stove fan powered by a TEC/Peltier module, and it worked ok for a long time but was pretty weak so I built a new bigger one to get a better result. This one uses 4x TEC modules (I think the code on them is 12706), with two series pairs connected in parallel (to double the voltage output, AND the current output).  So two pairs, with each pair in series for higher voltage, then the two pairs together in parallel. It works, but after a while it slows down & stops.  I think the reason is the top half heatsink is getting too hot from the stove where it needs to be kept cool. Problem is that i need these wide heatsinks both top and bottom in order to cover all 4 modules, so I'm not sure quite how to get round this problem? Can anyone give any good suggestions on this please? Many thanks! Jim

Topic by Mr Joshua 5 years ago


I don't know my peltier unit's specification, Help needed to identify

I have extracted a peltier TEC unit from my small USB fridge. I intend to put the cooling unit into a bigger and more better casing so it'll cool other things rather than a can softdrink. The problem is, it's just getting 18' celcius and I need it to be lower than that. I've tried using a USB charger that outputs the usual usb 5V but 1 amp, the temp just goes down 1-2' celcius.I want to put a higher voltage power into the cooling unit, but I'm afraid that I'll just burn the thing out.But the problem is, I don't know the spec of the peltier unit that I have.So, can anybody tell me the maximum voltage and amps that the peltier unit can handle?The cooler loooks like this http://www.everythingusb.com/mini_usb_fridge_12625.html

Topic by hafizan89 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Peltier Cells?

In the current make magazine issue #15 There is a project called the Seebeck Generator. I was wondering about the use of Peltier Cells. Can someone elaborate as to how they function? I mean can you get them in different sizes? Would different sizes effect the power output? If I took like 50 of them and somehow combined them could I get a higher yield? What if you used it in combination with something like Hydrogen? Ideally Hydrogen burns hot and if I had a large version of the Peltier Cell Could I use it to get a real power output? Possibly enough to power an electronic motor? Just some random thoughts the magazine sparked. Thanks, Jester

Topic by Jester_boy2 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


tec-9 style knex gun

This is a forum about if i should post my tec-9 knex gun. its a block trigger(08 edition is true trigger), 10+ (08 edition is 25+)round clip, and its bolt action(08 edition has a recoil dampening spring)

Topic by darth acexxacer 11 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Using TEC chips and heatsinks for personal cooling - heating collars or pads

I've been toying with using TEC chips (facinating devices that are cheap - applying voltage make one side hot - the other cold, Inversely, appling any existing temprature differential to the sinks PRODUCES POWER). They are used most commonly by consumers in auto beverage coolers and heaters. It  started when a car ran me down on my bike, and I was wearing a neck brace for months. I thought about how misserable I'd be if it were summertime. I also thought of those poor people that always wore them... Anyway, there's a thousand different easy ways to do this - I took fluid-filled plastic sections of a beverage cooler and attached them to a belt, which hangs around my neck. applied the heat  sink of the TEC and there you go - just wrap it in something. Now if I were on a motorcycle in summer and stopped in traffic, the cool collar would be a lifesaver, as well as a myriad of other apps. I cannot figure out the best (inexpensive) way to control this. It's easy enough to turn on and off - you can hardly forget it! But if I allow the chip to get too much wattage it will get too hot and self-destruct. Also, if I limit the wattage correctly, it would just need adjusting, and could be left on most of the time. The idea here is there are many ways to do this but they are too expensive... I want everyone to be able to afford it. If you use a Pot or resistor, the excess goes to heat and ruins battery life, and other controllers of DC current are expensive. Any help? I am almost 60 and have earned the nickname Misc. Expert among my family and friends, and I must say I'm very impressed with what y'all do here in this newsletter - Congrats!

Topic by miscexpert 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Question on using a Peltier/TEC device for air temperature control - Help please.

I want to have some control over the temperature inside the Orchidium I'm designing and I thought it might be cool :) to use a Peltier Device (device aka module) (Peltier aka TEC or Thermoelectric Cooler). I find I need a lot of help! (Please!) Alright, this isn't a completed Instructable, it's a plea for help, and maybe if the subjects lie in some of your fields of knowledge then we can all enjoy and learn from it. So, the Orchidium I'm designing is an acrylic case 24"W x 18"D x 30"High. It's to grow species orchids indoors in a microclimate, with LED grow lights, proper humidity, air movement and temperature control. (Of course, other critters would like the case, too: poison dart frogs, newts, carniverous plants, etc.. But I'm going to call it the Orchidium.) I've got it all pretty well planned out so that it can be built for a very reasonable price (yes, including the LEDs) and still be aesthetically pleasing and real purdy, too. All planned out EXCEPT FOR THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL. I was looking for some way to cool my case and I stumbled across Peltier devices in eBay. They are CHEAP, costing about $5 or more, depending on the Wattage, etc. The eBay sellers intimated that all you have to do is plug them in and the device gets ice cold. Later, with diligent web-study I learned that actually ONE SIDE of the peltier gets cold, while the other side gets hot. Also, you MUST attach a heat sink and fan to both (?) sides of the peltier. Also, that these devices are not ready to be plugged in; you must attach a DC power supply to them. Oh, another trick that these miraculous devices do is reverse their hot & cold sides when you reverse the polarity of their juice. Ideally, I would like a Peltier device with heatsinks, fans, a thermostat and a DC wall transformer attached... the Peltier/heatsinks/fans would measure about 2" x 2" x 6" and would be mounted in the sidewall of the Orchidium. When the temperature is 65-85F degrees the orchids are happy and the device is Off. But when the thermostat senses the internal temp going over 85F it turns on the Peltier, cold side inside, and so the inside of the case doesn't go up to 90-95F like mine does now; it cools the case a little. Conversely, for someone with chilly orchids or sneezing newts the thermostat would switch the Peltier to hot-side-in to heat the Orchidium a bit. The retail cost for us to buy a Peltier device, 2 heatsinks w/fans and a DC transformer is cheap... roughly $30. The thermostat might be cheap, but I don't know enough about what's needed. If it's too expensive then the Orchidium can do without it. I was hoping I could find an off-the-shelf Orchidium cooler/heater. No such luck. These miraculous Peltier devices are still practically undiscovered -- relatively speaking. People want to use them to cool their computer chips but are hampered by condensation; my orchids welcome condensation. Pathetically, it seems the most common use for Peltiers now is to cool/heat the little boxes on your car seat... they plug into your cigarette lighter and keep your 6-pack cold. Come on! You folks at Instructables can surely help me figure out how to best make an Orchidium cooler with this barely-discovered and poorly-utilized device. I started out a few weeks ago writing to many of the Peltier manufacturers around the world in hopes they might help me in choosing which of their modules I might purchase for my Orchidium. None of them was any help. They wanted to know how many million Orchidiums I planned per year. They told me my basic plan was hopeless or inefficient cost-wise. A Swedish company wanted $800. An American company wanted $500. Some other company wanted $5,000 to $8,000. I wrote back and said I could get a Peltier on eBay for five bucks. The Swedes snottily claimed that their Peltiers were very high quality. No. No way is any svensker Peltier $795 better than ANY other Peltier in the known universe. They both get cold and grow ice crystals on one side. I just need to cool the case A LITTLE BIT, like from 90 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. I am not trying to make a refrigerator or freezer. The case (Orchidium) is large, at about 7.5 cubic feet, and there is practically no insulation. Acrylic provides a little insulation, that's all. The temp of the interior of the case is derived from the ambient room temperature of your house... and the lights... which is why I designed it with LEDs. There is a constantly-operating muffin fan inside the case to provide air movement for the plants, but it does not provide any evaporative cooling since it's a closed case. So, first off what size Peltier do you recommend... do you think a 40 Watt would be enough, or what? Next, the placement. I envision the Peltier device mounted vertically through a hole in the side of the case. It might be a plan to mount it in the ceiling, but remember that the LEDs take up most of the ceiling. Next, the heatsinks. I confess I'm not totally clear on this, but I "think" that 2 heatsinks-with-fans may be needed, with one sticking out the outside and the other inside the case. I went ahead and got 2 heatsink/fans from Newegg for supercheap ($1 after rebate), but they aren't really what I want. They're actually shaped to fit some AMD chip. What I think I need is a copper heatsink with a flat bottom a little bigger than the Peltier, and fins... and a heatsink fan attached... and some way to attach it to the Peltier, and through the case to the other heatsink. See? Simple... well it should be but I can find nothing. Next, the power supply. I know it has to be DC, but I don't know which brick to get. I did find a bunch of DC or AC Wall Transformers for sale at alltronics... around $10 or so. All that stuff would be enough... at least to test the cooling power. But if we want to go whole hog then the icing on the cake would be thermostatic control of the Peltier. Well, I throw that out in case one of you is sharp in that field.

Topic by Knuten 11 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


thermoelectric coolers are eficient or not!?

The thermoeletric coolers are eficient or not?. hello everybody!!!!! im recently have make much research and test with tec coolers. on question have a way for boost the tec coolers eficiency. please come and post your questions and answers.

Topic by vambreace 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


12v dc car bat on a peltier/ tec, keeps blowing out, wat do i need 2 make it work?

Hey guys, i'm running a 168w tec of a 12v dc car battery that i want to turn into a in car fridge/drink cooler and i want it to run of a 12v connection off a car battery. the two tec's that i bought died(aka not working at all) after i connected it off a 12v dc car battery. what resistors, etc do i need to make it run on 12v and not down it to a lower voltage? also how would the answer differ if i wanted to upgrade to a 400w tec? appreciated ;P cheers -dan

Topic by Dan_J 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Computer PSU's and Peltier elements?

Hey, I have 2 158W Peltier elements, that I would like to mount to some CPU-heatsinks, and power with an old 400W PSU. Can I "just do that"? There seams to be some caveats with how these units draw power AFAIK. Also, does anyone have any experience with how much heat displacement is needed to not just ending up frying the unit? Any suggestions on what heatsink to pair them with, and how strong a resistor to put on them? I want to use them at the maximum power I can get them to run with continuously for up to 2 hours. I have way too limited experience with electronics, and only a week to build my project, so I kind of have to go with the simplest approach here :(

Question by ELF 8 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


hi tec Ranger 3 sky radio controler 3 channel?

CAN i run a 27mhz ra green crystal remote car thanks for your help

Question by LizzyH5 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Powering Thermoelectric Module (Peltier) Answered

I am trying to understand how TEC modules work, and I think I have it figured out now, but was hoping that someone with more electrical knowledge could verify that I have it right. I am looking at this TEC module. My current understanding of this is as follows: 1. If I regulate the current to this module to a max of 2A, the maximum amount of heat that the module will move at DTmax = 0 would be approximately 75W. 2. If I regulate the current to this module to a max of 2A, the module will not exceed a DT of ~20C. 3. If I regulate the current to this module to a max of 2A, the voltage could range between ~4-6V, but would not reach 10V due to the limitation of DT. 4. Therefore, this module, limited to a max of 2A, would use at max 12W (approximately). Is that all correct? Second, I am comparing the above module to this TEC module. For this second model, my understanding is: 1. If I regulate the voltage to this module to a max of 12V, the maximum amount of heat that the module will move at DTmax = 0 would be 28W. 2. If I regulate the voltage to this module to a max of 12V, the module will reach its DTmax of 67C (theoretically). 3. If I regulate the voltage to this module to a max of 12V, the current could range between ~0.75-1A, but would not reach 2A due to the limitation on voltage. 4. Therefore, this module, limited to a max of 12V, would use at max 12W (approximately). So basically, it is a trade-off between DTmax and heat moved at the same wattage. Is that correct?

Question by eblingdp 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


K'NEX PMR-30 V.1

Hey guys! Well, it has been a while since I have made a pistol (yes, I know, I just posted my FN Five-Seven 'ible, but I had taken those pictures a long time ago), so I decided to make a gun I saw in my March 2014 issue of Guns and Ammo Magazine, the Kel Tec PMR0-30.  The original shoots .22 Magnum, has a 30 + 1 magazine capacity, and only costs about $415.00 U.S. dollars. Mine shoots tan/blue clips/connectors, has a 10 - 13 +1 magazine capacity, and only uses about 100 - 150 pieces. I have yet to fire the thing, so this forum topic is just to gauge what you guys think about it. Credit: Most the the handle/grip comes from Blue Mullet 2's Pistole Makarov. Everything else is pretty much original. Features: - Only 8 in. long - 10 - 13 +1 magazine capacity (this can be easily increased) - Nice setup overall - Semi-comfortable handle/grip - Nice sight set (I forgot to take a pic of them) - Easily modifiable Well, that is all the time I have to write for right now, I got lunch calling my name! Enjoy! -The Red Book of Westmarch

Topic by The Red Book of Westmarch 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Can I use a 10 amp 120 volt relay for more then 10 amps if the voltage is lower? Answered

I am currently working on a mini A/C with a TEC that draws 12V and 12 amps and the relays I want to control it with have a rating of 10 amps 120v. not sure if it is as simple as this but 10A*120V=1200 watts. While 12A*12V=144 watts so in my eyes this would work because there is much less power flowing through the relay but I would like to request advice from someone who is a bit more knowledgeable then I. Help would be greatly appreciated thanks a bunch. Harry

Question by harry88 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


Live Innovation Making (Energy DIY Electronic)

Simply it is meaning show how can do the a new Innovation by self with available material  and with cheap cost The message for Innovation not only Marketing and sells but also meaning how we can Enter the high Tec. and New technology in our live and How can dissemination the open knowledge What the benefits if we keep this innovations & high Tec. As patents  or prototypes if we can share it  with all people I think that is a Inventor Message And Here I will explain my Innovations (How Can Do It by Self With Available and Cheap Material) For more information you can visit: https://www.instructables.com/id/Live-Innovation-Making-DIY-Electronic/ Khaled Elnems

Topic by Elnems 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Can a 6V 2.4 W LED be safely used for a 6V 3W (hub) dynamo?

Head Lamp: B&M IQ-TEC Fly N Plus; intending to be used without tail light ( don't like the external wires) with a SON or Shimano 6V dyno-hub, having 3W output

Question by 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Most efficient way to recover heat from 130 degree F water and transfer this heat to 140 degree F water?

I am making a solar still and I need to recover as much heat as I can from the 130 degree F water (bringing the water temp down to near ambient, 72 degrees F) and then transfer this heat to 140 degree F seawater. I have a limited amount of solar collectors to heat brackish water, send it through an evaporator tower and then a condenser tower to make fresh water. As the fresh water goes through the condenser it gains a great deal of latent heat, thus the 130 degree F water. In order to increase production and regain otherwise lost energy I am trying to recapture a portion of this heat to further warm up the brackish water (currently at 140 degrees after exiting the evaporator tower) before being further heated with the solar collectors. I am operating off grid, so the solution must utilize solar heat or PV panels as the power source.  Does anyone know of a heat pump that operates best in this temp range? What about using TEC (aka TEG, TEP or TEHP) to perform this task? Is there a better or more obvious solution that I am oblivious to? Any advice would be much appreciated. 

Question by MichaelMichael 6 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


10-15 AMPs w/ potentiometer.

So, as a chemist I thought it would be fun to save some $ by making my own hot plate & magnetic stirrer. I am using Thermoelectric cooling device (TEC) to heat my stirrer, and a small DC motor to stir. Here's the problem - if you've ever taken highschool chemistry you will know that a hot plate with a stirrer has a potentiometer for Temp & Stirring speed - I'd like to do the same! Problem: the TEC takes anywhere from 5-20 amps in operation @ 12 volts DC. Adding a potetiometer to this in parallel is out of the question - I can't fine a potentiometer that can handle greater than 2 watts. ( i may just be looking in the wrong place)... So.. all in all I'm looking for nearly 140-170 watts of power for my heating plate. (The motor will be using much less, almost negligble to the heating plate) So, if I can't put a potentiometer in series for power regulation, how can I get my temperature to vary? If this is going to require a circuit board, I may need some help with a design :)

Topic by GreenD 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Can it be possible to seperate favorites with folders?

I, like many in this community have loads of favorites....it would be great if I could organize it by separating it in folders. Is it possible for the  tec team of  instructables to  make it possible for us to organize our favorites by making it possible to put them in folders?? You could make it 'Pro Membership" benefit if you would prefer. Also...Is it possible to again include the Hit totals in contest by again adding the 'VIEWS' Tab? It would be so much easier...especially for some contest which have like 600++ entries!! Then we could see the new and the old easily....else who is going to go and check the entries...18 by 18 by 18!! Thanks!

Topic by shazni 6 years ago


How to heat a metallic bowl containing a liquid, which must be evaporated, using peltier element?

Hello everyone, I'm Georgios and thank you for your time My goal is to create a mechanism which will be able, using peltier element, to heat a metallic bowl (metallic because of its heat conductivity). In the bowl I will put acetone and I want to evaporate this liquid. Also I want to control the temperature of the bowl. The evaporated acetone will be kept in a closed box. Then, using second peltier element I want to cool the acetone, to liquidity it? Do you know if this is possible? And in general do you think that it is a good idea to use peltier element for heating and cooling, only with electricity, acetone? My goal is also to heat in a fast way. The temperature must be 80 C for evaporation.

Question by GeorgiosG1 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago


Help please. Published by mistake - need to move it all.

Help! I published a question - a request for help - as an Instructable and just put it in the Tech section. Now all the comments say I was wrong, that I should have published in the FORUMS. Oh, I didn't know. I just started with "Submit" and ended with "Publish" and now all the little old ladies in tennis shoes are circling for the kill. I had no idea I was breaking a taboo; I just wanted to ask for help. PLEASE tell me if I can remove my whole Instructable from where it is and put it into FORUMS. Is it possible to drag & drop the whole thing, pictures included? Or do I have to do each little thing all over again? (My Instructable is entitled: "Question on using a Peltier/TEC device for air temperature control - Help please")

Topic by Knuten 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


using a thermoelectric cooler for High powered LEDs

Has anyone tried using a thermoelectric cooler, like this one http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=PJT-7to cool down a high powered LED star. I am considering mounting one on the back of a new Luxeon RebelI plan on ramping the current up to max (1 amp) on the led, and run the Thermoelectric cooler (TEC) as high as possible off a lead-acid battery. Strap a giant heat sink on it (maybe a fan too) plus thermal and silicone over the whole thing. It wouldn't be pretty, but it would be a neat experiment on how many lumens you could crank out of one of these things. Any inputs, suggestions, Ideas? Feel free to make an instructale on this if you want, I can't guarantee I will do it anytime soon.

Topic by John Culbertson 11 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Is it a good idea to drill holes into the bottom of crocs shoes for water drainage? Answered

I was looking at these Hi-Tec Hydro shoes and I saw they had holes in the sole to let water drain out, and I was wondering if it would be a good idea to do the same with crocs. http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3541227You can see the drainage holes in the sole if you zoom in.I'm going to Hawaii and i want general water/walking shoes and crocs seem to be the most readily available, comfortable, and most importantly, affordable. I just didn't want to ruin a pair by drilling small holes in between the treads or anything. Also, my plan would be to drill at an angle so that nothing sharp would be able to penetrate through the bottom, but I'm more afraid of the drill bit tearing too much material away when doing so since I have never owned a pair myself. Any help would be great, and thanks in advance.

Question by elnino2783 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


bogged down with to many safety programs please help it is driving me crazy both pc xp and vista laptop run okay but ? Answered

I have spybot - superanti spy ware (free one) as will as ccleaner and system mechanic as well as corporate edition of symetec and revno uninstaller is this good or bad they do not seem to conflict at all. the only ones that run at the same time is system mechanic guard dog and spybot oh and systemic full time protection,would you say this is to much of an over kill I am running xp ???? on the vista laptop I have I am running much the same now on vista I keep getting this thing that logs onto the computer from iyogi no one can stop it not even the tecs at Iyogi as I stopped the service if I put it back to factory settings will this get rid of Iyogi this thing is bugging me what should I do about the vista and the xp I have it seems like it is  to many thing running any advice ?????

Question by dogofwar 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Is someone willing to give me a good amount of technical advice concerning heat dissipation using a Peltier device ?

Ok, I have a laptop that I use to play many videogames with, and as you can imagine, it has an overheating is a problem. I have software that monitors the GPU and CPU temperatures while I play. The GPU and CPU are rated at a 100c max temperature. Now that the summer season has started, my laptop gets hotter and hotter as I play. I am usually forced to Under-volt my computer so that it stays below safe temperatures. Now, I was digging around online and came across something called a "Peltier device". It is a small ceramic plate (with electrical nodes inside) that when electrified, transfers the heat from one side to the other. The peltier I got is rated at 545 watts, 32 amps, and 18vdc, and gets as cold as -60c, 150c. I ordered a desktop power supply online, along with 2 CPU cooling systems. (I.E.  2x Professional grade heat-sink, and 2x 120mm fan) The Power supply outputs 430watts, 28 amps, and 12vdc. I planned on taking these parts and simply sandwiching the peltier between 2 heatsinks, having 1 hot heatsink+fan and 1 cold heatsink+fan. I planned on pumping the cold air into the air intake on the bottom of my laptop, and just pump the hot air into the room.  Unfortunately, the problem I face (and this is a really stupid mistake) was that I did not measure out this whole assembly. It turns out, the peltier face plates are roughly 2.5" x 2.5", whereas the heat-transfer faceplate of the heatsinks are only about 1.5" x 1.5". Now, I wired this all up, and put it all together, ignoring the parts of the peltier that were hanging off and lo' and behold, the peltier worked as designed, one side got extremely cold, and the other got hot. The only problem is, over time, since nothing was drawing the heat away from the edges of the hot side, it transferred over to the cold side, thus warming it up to about room temperature, negating the entire purpose of the contraption.  This is the part that I need help on, would simply taking some aluminum plates that are large enough to cover the entire surface of the peltier, smother both sides in my remaining thermal compound, and then connect this aluminum (with more thermal compound) to the heatsink? This contraption is essentially meant to be a laptop cooling pad. Mounted inside of an old computer case. So it needs to be mobile (IE, liquid cooling is not an option). Can anyone think of a better solution to this? 

Question by schwerlin 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago