ALL TERRAIN VEHICLES

ALL TERRAIN VEHICLES, ATV, are one of the most growing means of recreation. Many people ride ATV's in the mountain trails enjoying nature along the way. The scenery is really one that No TV can match either. Most people ride their ATV on forest Public  Lands which are "Managed " by forestry. ( at least they say they are....volunteers do more for the forest though) So why is it the US Government is working so hard at taking away our rights of recreating responsibly in our own lands? The USDA/USFS is attempting to close access to all forest lands making them monuments, in which case no person will be permitted to access them. If you or family or even friends recreate in the forest I highly urge you to let them know that we all need to unite in order to save these rights. Advocate in order to protect our rights to use our own lands responsibly. Education in this matter is available in many areas on the web. One place will help in many ways..... www.ouachitaatvadventureclub.org Go to this site.....click on the links.........obtain the information that is factual for you to make an educated decision to help save our land rights. If we all come together, we can stop many of the actions being brought forth to us. Please help.......Please save our recreation that our families and friends enjoy so much. Our club accepts donations to help preserve our recreation, maintain the web site, advocating, and working on the trails to clean them up and repair them also. Sure you can make comments here about this, about what you feel about this, even if you don't agree.....leave a comment here then. This is open for all to see and become aware of this problem. No matter where you recreate, some government department will have some type of involvement in it - some how - some way.

Topic by spa31rky 


What can i cover a foam model in to make it hard like plastic?

I am building some foam terrain for my hobby shop in beijing china and its going to receive a lot of wear and tear! I want to make it more durable! Suggestions please.

Question by aaron2   |  last reply


Terragen

I found this thing called Terragen today while I was looking around on the Internet. It's a Terrain generator, which is where the name came from. Has anyone used this before?There's also Terragen 2, and it's a lot harder to use than the regular one. I can't figure it out. At all.http://www.planetside.co.uk/terragen/ The link thing isn't working for me at the moment....

Topic by Sunbanks   |  last reply


Scarpar All-Terrain Powerboard (video)

Scarpar's all-terrain power board has been in development since the 90s, Engineering and design organization EDAG have been helping with the production.Basically its like a skateboard but with tracks underneath that are as wide as the board itself. A high powered motor drives these tracks and you hold a remote in your hand that control's the speed.You can carve around like on a snowboard/skateboard/surfboard and the board can go over snow, sand and rough ground, if you watch the video you will see it concur an entire tree trunk !scarpar.com has loads more info They also have a Scarpar twitter and Scarpar facebook pageWatch the video !

Topic by =SMART=   |  last reply


For Sale: K'Nex All Terrain Trekker

For sale on eBay, I have an all terrain trekker motor. Its in great condition, has barely been used, and comes with four brand new batteries to power it. This is the fastest, rarest, biggest, and strongest K'Nex motor made. Available at reasonable price.   http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250721584584&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_949

Topic by lioneatr 


Wheel Leg All terrain design

I came up with a wheel leg design a while ago http://us.mindstorms.lego.com/nxtlog/myprojectdisplay.aspx?id=d5808c2d-b658-4b8e-b0f2-06c6152a2f66. Vex came up with this product and it looks a lot like my design. I think this would be a great design for an mars rover. I got the idea from rex robots. I thought, " Why not put more of those on?"

Topic by starwing123   |  last reply


Slowing down a computer fan for miniature terrain

Hey all, Kind of new to doing these things but i have a question. I want to slow down a 80mm fan so it spins really slowly. I will use this for a display board for wargaming miniatures (warhammer 40k). My question is i know how to connect a 9v battery to the fan and get it to run with a switch but how would i go about having it go really slow. If i put a resister in will that work and if so which one to use thanks Steve

Topic by the real axl rose   |  last reply


Using Google Earth's elevations of terrains to create a 3D model

Does anyone know of a way to pull the elevations of terrains off of Google Earth and Import them into a program that will run a CNC machine?For example, is there a way to make a 3D model of the land that I live on using Google Earths elevations?  I am looking for an relativity exact model of my land including all hills, canyons, and so forth. Thanks in advance

Topic by armynavy17   |  last reply


How to make all terrain robotic car? Pls list out all the parts required and also the step by step procedure to make it.

The dimension of the entire car should be 30*25*25 cm... and should run in a 12v supply...... It should be of min cost too...

Question by aswin2142   |  last reply


Help needed to upgrade wheels on walker for all-terrain ?

I've been trying to source a rim / hub  for my e-walker project , and so far havent been succesful  in finding the exact measurments I need  7.5 " wheel / 46 mm width with 9- 10mm bearing ( SEE BELOW ) http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-and-rolle ... gs/=9i3dx1 The spacer inside the wheel based on my measurements is 2.7 mm in length and 13 mm in diameter ( outside ) Any way , it seems the best match I can find for hub , tire so far is one of those wheels used on those razor electric scooters  here  though I do not see any bore sizes for any of them, in spite of being told there are after emailing them that its up there ( you can see for yourelf if you like ) So instead, I did websearch on the model of the scooter that correlated with the sorta wheel specs that might work - like e100 razor  and found 8mm mentioned a few times , which I assumed might be the correct diameter of the axel / bore size i need. ( I have also asked on scooter forum to confirm this ) 8 mm however is too small to fit my own  knee walker mobility device , so I was wondering - to cut a long story short  - if there is any way I can enlarge the hole in the bearings that might be realtively easy i.e. without paying someone else ( assuming this could be done easily ) or having to buy a rim with a bigger bore and using some sort of hub ring to make u the difference ( perhaps a bad idea for hun motor ) Again , if any one has any suggestion they willing to share I'd be more than greateful for your ideas and badly needed advice  :) thanks once again. hele

Topic by hele   |  last reply


All Terrain Hex Limbed Extra Terrestrial Explorer

Here is some inspiration for those robotics hobbyists out there. It is the ATHLETE Robot designed by Jet Propulsion Lab in Pasadena, California. The fast motion videos are my favorite. It has some nice moves, however they might be a little slow.http://www.popsci.com/military-aviation-space/article/2008-04/lunar-habitat-hauler( A portion of the article)The Winnebago isn't exactly a marvel of technology. But there is a good chance that NASA's next generation of lunar travelers will live and work out of a two-piece system mobile robot and habitat combination that will allow astronauts to bring base camp with them that has plenty in common with the humble RV.What you see on this page is the part that makes this home mobile: Athlete (All-Terrain Hex-Limbed Extra-Terrestrial Explorer), a six-limbed habitat-hauler being developed by the Jet Propulsion Laboratory in Pasadena, California. Made of aluminum, this prototype Athlete is eight feet wide and seven feet tall. It gets around using six independently controlled legs equipped with ultra-light wheels. In more-challenging terrain, the wheels can lock in place and function as feet, allowing Athlete to tiptoe through boulder-strewn fields or climb up steep hills. The mission-ready robot, which will be about twice the size of the prototype pictured here and made of steel, should be able to haul a load of up to 15 tons pretty much anywhere it wants to as long as it obeys a 3mph speed limit. That is about as fast as you can go without risking flipping over because of the low gravity, explains Brian Wilcox, the primary investigator on the Athlete project.Here is an informational video of the ATHLETE. Here is a video of the ATHLETE in action! ( Photo from http://www.pestaola.gr/img1/nasa-athlete-rover.jpg)

Topic by Brennn10   |  last reply


Best type of airsoft weapon

Which type of airsoft gun is the best for a forest terrain: rifle, assault rifle, shotgun, heavy machine gun, or sniper rifle?

Topic by BuildSleepThink   |  last reply


What is the best way to cut gerass on a very steep sloped hill?

My back yard is made up mostly out of an increadibly steep hill. For years I have used a non-propelled push mower for the top and mowed down until the mower has almost reached tipping point (just above the tree over the rock). From there I have to use a weed eater to cut the rest of the yard until its flat. this is a very difficult and time comesuming process that will drain anyone physicly and mentally. How can I fix this? If I need new lawn equipment, I am willing to buy new equipment to end this nightmare. If i need to change my mowing technique i will try anything that anyone has to offer.

Question by fastcar123   |  last reply


Is this the last step in an unstoppable robot?

I just saw this video via Laughing Squid's Twitter feed. It's a small robot from Boston Dynamics (the people that brought you the Mule walking pack-robot) that can jump 30 feet straight up. Now, imagine if they combined that leaping technology, and the ruggedness to survive the landings, with the terrain-crossing a flight capabilities of a Mini-Wheg MMALV, and you've got a robot that can get anywhere - as soon as the terrain gets too rough to clamber over, jump 30 feet straight up, and then either glide or fly under power to a better location! Come on, roboteers, get to it!  

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


Models

Does anyone even care about mini model? I've barley seen any in the entire website! (excluding www.instructables.com/id/Mini-Island-Gaming-Terrain/ ) Any way... I need to see more of this kind of stuff!

Topic by elkalpin   |  last reply


what is a free cg software that is not blender or paint? Answered

I want to make a landscape terrain. Oh I have google sketch-up and it deos'nt do what I want it to do. Any one know of a free software. thanxs a ton -MiiWii3

Question by miiwii3   |  last reply


What is everyone getting for Christmas?

So what is everyone getting for christmas? Im getting knex, all terrain board, CoD Black Ops, DeadRising 2 and some other things :D EDIT: I am no lonegr getting a all terrian board. I am now getting a Dazzle

Question by Tom Buckey   |  last reply


Rover: Tracks or Tyres?

Hi guys, I'm building an adaptable rover system which should be designed to go over rocky/muddy terrain (just imagine the basic farm environment). As i am doing this for an A level project, can you help me decide whether tracks or normal wheels would be better? Thanks!

Topic by DELETED_ThunderVolt99   |  last reply


Arduino control of 4 wheelchair motors?

I want to build an offroad/all terrain mobility vehicle and have simultaneous motor control using an Arduino, raspberry Pi, or similar mini board. I have very limited mobility and want to enjoy the outdoors more. Can this be done? I have 24volt motors, but not sure yet as to the watts.M

Question by poppaIT   |  last reply


How can I send the video captured by a web cam using Microcontroller,wireless.???

I am building an All terrain bot which will be wireless controlled from a host computer. So I want to send video from the bot to the host...Can any one suggest any mechanism within a reasonable budget ????

Topic by Paramount   |  last reply


What is the strongest (i.e split resistant, durable, toughest) wood commercially available? Answered

I am in the process of making a (hopefully) extremely durable walking staff... it is going to be used in very rocky and hilly terrain so I don't want it breaking on me. About where I put those parentheses earlier... should I have it as "a" or "an"? (random extra question brought on by wording or question)

Question by Kraethi   |  last reply


I am looking for a casting material for a mold made from a textured sheet Answered

I made a latex mold off a piece of textured sheet.  The mold is 24x24x1/8 inch.  I want to make castings that are flexible and paintable, so I can make "sheets" I can shape into roads for miniature terrain. I have heard there are paints or surface finishes that will work for this, and if this is true, I'd like brand names from US sources.

Question by hardlec   |  last reply


How to measure the displacement of a gravel particle by arduino kit ans extensometer sensor? Answered

I want to measure the displacement of a particle of gravel in the surface of an slope, along the year (each hour ot forur hours or something like that), in order to study the erosion evolution of the terrain. I suposse that the use of an arduino kit (with sd or micro sd datalogger among other characteristics) and some extesometer sensor could be the better option, but i don´t know how to do it... Thanks!

Question by madepablo   |  last reply


what do I need to build a prerunner?

I have a 1987 ford ranger with a 2.9 V6 2x4. I want to build a prerunner but I have no clue what to get. I'm sort of new to it and plus this truck is entirely stock and won't handle the harsh rugged terrain of the desert. so any ideas or places I can try? I live las vegas and heard there are a lot of places that sell parts for this type of thing.

Question by capt. caveman   |  last reply


Dancing

What kind of dances can you do? Why? Are you up to the challenge of creating an 'ible on how to do it? I see a lot of breakdance 'ibles, but nobody has posted how to waltz, for example. I can: -- Do a synchonized chicken dance, on a snowboard, while riding a terrain park with five friends. Got my 15 minutes of fame on the local news for that one. -- Break something while dancing, but not breakdance -- Linedance, but I can never find enough people to come up with the rest of the line -- Squaredance (on a good day)

Topic by Rishnai   |  last reply


Need help building an off road style wheel-chair accesable ATV prefferably with electric moters?

My uncle is a paraplegic and wants to come to the ranch that I work at. I was thinking it would be great if I could build him a roll in ATV. He has a van but needs something like a Polaris ranger to get around the tough roads. Any ideas maybe chopping up an old ATV so he could roll in from the back, or making a wheelchair that has more power and is bigger for rough terrain?

Question by marcusmckee33   |  last reply


How much knex does an average knexer like you have?

I'm bored, so I wanna know how much knex you have. here's my list: (pictures would be fine too) big ball factory set: 3000+ screamin sepent set: 1200+ rippin rocket set: 1200+ an old knex crane set: 1000+ terrain trekker set: 400+ a yellow knex carry case: 300+ a lot of little sets: 800+ total: 8000+ pieces

Question by Mr. Muggle   |  last reply


How do I build a minecraft city?

I want to build a medieval city/large town, but I don't know how to start. I could use superflat, but that would be a little strange because it is just an endless plain. I could also level ground in a default world, but that would take very long. I wonder if I should just make it to flow with the terrain (hills, etc.), but I don't exactly know how to do that. Could you suggest how I should do that and maybe a few other tips on city-building?

Question by ~KnexBuild~   |  last reply


BOUNCE: original game (download here)

BOUNCEBOUNCEBOUNCE [download] BOUNCE is an original 2D platform style game built in Java. The game incorporates game elements like destructible terrain, 3rd person shooting, and puzzles, to provide an experience similar to such games as Mario and Minecraft. You, a lone circle in a world of squares, must make your way through 50 levels to save the galaxy from destruction. Along the way, you'll face laser shooting robots, parkour puzzles, and fire-breathing dragons. More information available at http://www.java-gaming.org/topics/iconified/27023/view.html.

Topic by supercapacitor   |  last reply


Need a design for an outdoor wheelchair that converts to a bed for handicapped person to go camping again?

I would like to build an all-terrain wheelchair that folds into a bed so I can take my adult brother with MS camping again.  Could use soft balloon tires and something like a lounge chair style that lies flat to make a bed.  It needs to have at least one firm arm that he can pull on to turn himself a little.  Ideally it could be converted to a bed while he is in it so he can rest if he needs to.  I would be so grateful for any help.  -CJ

Question by cjkip   |  last reply


How long will 3528 LED strips drain a motorcycle battery?

The battery is a duraboost battery made for ATVs and is in a YFZ450 (sport quad). The battery is 12 volts and so are the LEDs but i am afraid that the LEDs will drain the battery or just blow the LEDs from all the current it has to offer. They need .4 amps per meter and I am using about 4-5 meters. I want to know if i must make sure I have a full battery and how long i have until i get low on juice.

Question by hopekiller30   |  last reply


Help With Senior Project; Building a MOUT Facility.

Even though it is a few years down the road (two, to be precise), I would like to begin this ambitious project sooner rather than later. I plan to build an Airsoft/ Paintball MOUT (Military Operations in Urban Terrain) facility, that is, a small scale town to do battle in. An example would be the Jericho facility found via Google search. It is my hope to build this (mine, not Jericho) facility and make a profit from it, possibly turn it into a business. I know this is a major project, which is why I am asking for any advice you can give. Is there any way I can obtain cheap materials? Have any hints on buying or (hopefully) obtaining free land? Any advice at all will be appreciated.

Topic by Spl1nt3rC3ll   |  last reply


Has anyone ever created a full-sized windup (clockwork-powered) car? Answered

I understand that it would be a monumental undertaking for most of us here, but still I was wondering if anyone on the high-school engineering level or higher has ever attempted to build a vehicle that could carry a minimum of two people sitting side by side, travel for 50 miles at a speed of 35-40 mph over undulating terrain? How practical would this be? How big or heavy would it be? How would you go about rewinding the mainspring so that you're not tiring yourself or your teammates out AND not contributing too much to the current pollution levels? If someone has attempted this, have you posted your results? I would love to see them.

Question by javajunkie1976   |  last reply


DAM

My final product! It's pretty DAM awesome! Directional, Attack, Mine aka DAM! Looking forward to making a video and instructable soon! Be on the lookout for my DAM K'nex mine! Just a few stats... Uses 30 size 64 rubber bands to shoot 50 pieces up to 100ft at the slightest pull of the trip! I really had a lot of fun with this build I hope everyone that gives it a try will too! Big thanks to JonnyBGood for inspiring the design of the stand. I was able to use his idea and turn it into this great stand with 5 adjustable angles for different angles of attack depending on range of intended target and ground terrain or angles. All around this is an incredibly fun weapon to add to the arsenal.

Topic by Knex Lego Maniac   |  last reply


What kinda engine would be suitable for a moped bike?

I am looking into making a moped out of my bike to increase fuel efficiency. I am looking to find out where i could find a suitable engine within laws for NH. Around here, According to the DMV a moped or scooter must meet the following restrictions: It must have an engine of 50 cubic centimeters or less. It cannot exceed 30 mph on level terrain. It cannot shift. It cannot exceed two horsepower. As i said, im not sure where to find a suitable engine to meet those criteria that i can scavenge. I am looking to make a chain drive bike not a roller driven due to inneficiency,maintence,and traction of the roller on the wheel being lack. Couldnt find any chain driven conversions on here. If you can offer any information it would be much appreciated.

Question by trf   |  last reply


Yes. Back again, with more of a challenge. How would you construct a Gunshot-Location-System for 2006s standards? Answered

How'd you do it? The new requirements included: Shooter localization to plus or minus 15 degree accuracy, and within one second of the shot Reliability for shot miss distances of one to 30 meters Ability to detect and localize fire from AK-47s and other small arms at ranges from 50 to 150 meters Reliable performance in urban environments with low buildings Operable when mounted on a vehicle moving up to 60 miles per hour on either rough terrain or highways Ability to withstand sand, pebbles, rain, and light foliage impacts Ability to deliver alert information in both a voice announcement and on an LED display Microphone array and electronics box must be replaceable in the field[4]

Question by Lance Mt.   |  last reply


How to identify a metal ?

Hi ! Into a terrain near a very old volcano and a river, my brother found fragments of obsidian of various sizes and colors. Some of them are "glued" to metallic stones, and some others contain marbles of metals ... He also found a heavy metallic rocks (encrusted with obsidian) who reacts with magnet, and an other light one (without obsidian) who does not react with magnet. Do you know a mean to identify those metals ? (I Googled but found nothing very useful so far) Or do you have a clue of what it could be ? #1 is a metallic rock encrusted with obsidian. It must be iron because it's heavy, the rust is red, and it reacts to magnet. #2 and #3 is obsidian with marble of metal who reacts to magnet. #4 is an unknown (metallic ?) rock. It is light (150 grams for 200 cm3 - 0.33 pounds for 12 cubic inches), of the color of silicon (or the graphite of paper pen !), does not react to magnet but is (electric) conductor with resistance near 0 ohm.

Topic by chooseausername   |  last reply


Self-balancing motor sizing and drivers?

I'm starting to plan a self-balancing unicycle and I notice several people that have built them are using 450-500W motors. I'd like to use something a bit more robust, like 750W @ 24v, due to terrain. I'm wondering if that's too much and if the guys that are using 500W are happy with the results? Has anybody tracked their current (amps) usage? My guess is that unless you're going full speed and uphill you'll rarely hit full wattage on your motor except for temporary instances. One of the challenges I'm finding is that there are motor drivers up to 25A at 24v or 36v that can handle a bit of surge, but then it takes a huge leap to 160A and 400A surge. I don't think I need something that large and expensive, but my electric motor experience is limited. Could some of you more experienced guys chime in with a bit of advice? Thanks, Gyv

Topic by Gyvven 


I need help designing a simple outdoor wheelchair for an adult that reclines flat to become a bed.

I want to design a simple outdoor wheelchair that reclines flat to become a bed. This is for my disabled brother. Unfortunately, I can't weld, so extra points if it is made out of some parts that don't need welding. I want to take my brother camping, but he tires easily and needs to lie down. I am going to use a small pop-up awning with sides to create a little bedroom for him when he needs to rest, but I need help coming up with this chair design. Seems simple but all sorts of practical issues are stumping me. It should go over typical campground terrain. I could buy "Wheeleez" fat tires for a million dollars but my bank account does not allow that.  Likewise pre-made wheelchairs that become beds are exorbitant.  Thank you for any help you can provide!?

Question by cjkip   |  last reply


Converted 1990 Ninja ZX-6 Electric Motorcycle

Hi, I'm cross posting this here as I know this is a community of folks who might appreciate something like this project.  I've recently converted a sportbike to electric power.  It was a grad school project but since I'm in the Active Army, I have to PCS (move) to Izmir, Turkey for one year.  Since I don't want to let it sit for a year in my garage, I'm selling it on ebay.  Please check it out and spread the word to anyone interested. It would make a great bike for a college student to ride around campus or the local town.  Or a great starter bike for someone beginning to learn how to ride motorcycles as there's no distracting engine noise or clutch work.  I live in Kansas City, Missouri but have a flexible schedule so I can work with different shipping methods that you use. here's the link and some features: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kawasaki-Ninja-ZX-6-All-Electric-plug-in-Motorcycle_W0QQitemZ300369654215QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_motorcycles?hash=item45ef6d31c7 Specifications: -Top Speed: about 52 mph as geared depending on windspeed and terrain -Range: about 15 miles depending on terrain and riding habits -Acceleration: adequate for traffic -Charge time: 5-6 hours -Motor: 72volt GE series wound DC -Batteries: 6 x 12volt 35ah Power Sonic AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) -Controller: Alltrax AXE-7245 (Programmable and with data logging capability via USB cable) -Charger: 72volt 8amp, plug comes out of gas cap and can be plugged in any standard outlet -Contactor: Kilovac EV200 by Tycho Electric -Main Fuse: 400 amp -Battery cage and motor mount: welded angle and tube steel -Weight: 422 lbs  (47 lbs lighter than the factory weight) -72v to 12v converter to run factory wiring harness Features:   -PakTrakr display to show total pack voltage and individual battery voltages -Motor controller can log data via USB cable for battery pack voltage, Motor current, Battery current and throttle position (the graph picture was made by importing the data to microsoft excel) -Factory key switch enables contactor -Neutral dash light wired to show contactor status -Manual switch enables controller -Sidestand switch linked to "interrupt" relay in contactor circuit -Street legal, registered and insured in Missouri thanks -chris

Topic by kcsimcoe   |  last reply


I need your suggestions for my upcoming iBle!!!

I was deciding on whether to let y'all know what I'm working on, and since I don't know much in the area I'm working in, I decided it would be best.I am working on an amphibious bicycle that can operate efficiently on land and water. There are just a few on the Interweb, and they are for sell at high prices ($500 bucks at least.)I am trying to do this with as little cost and as much recycled materials as possible.So far, I've decided that:My propulsion mechanism either has to be a prop like your average boat, or a paddlewheel. Both would be powered by my back wheel.I am considering wooden pontoons filled with 2 liter bottles or gallon milk jugs, reminiscent of this iBle.I want to stay as high as possible, but I want to be able to go straight from land to water and vice versa. Basically, no assembly required to change terrain.If anybody has any ideas at all, please let me know!Thanks much,Bran!

Topic by Bran   |  last reply


Dirtmobile?

So I got this awesome idea to make a trike with a snowmobile donor. Use the snowmobiles motor and track for the rear "wheel", and a gokart style front end, with 2 wheels, spindles, maybe suspension, etc.  Nothing too big, maybe 400cc or less. 2 stroke of course =D. I am proficient in fabricating, welding, and have a full auto shop worth of tools, so the actual construction shouldn't be a problem. However, I need to know some things about the snowmobile drive train.  Would the track itself work on dirt, light mud, light puddles (2-4 inches deep), and maybe some sand? If not, are there any tracks available for such terrain? Do most snow mobiles have the engine mounted infront of seat, below, or behind? This thing looks wicked cool in my mind.  OH, heres a good way to put it. Like a snowbike (Dirt bike with tracks in back), with two front wheels. Or a honda ATC with tracks flipped rear/front.

Question by LiquidLightning   |  last reply


3 scooter batteries in series: too good: 54 V!!!? Answered

For 2 months now I have an Aldi (low end) e-bike. The Li-battery allows 25-35 km travel (depending on terrain and wind conditions) on max power assist. According to specs, the battery has a voltage of ca. 40 V when fully charged, going down to a cutoff point of ca. 35 V when empty. For a relatively cheap 2nd battery solution  (to increase travel distance for another 20- 30 km) I put 3 brand new motorcycle batteries in series. Charged individually with a good (LIDL) charger, the batteries give a whopping 17.3 V, with a halogen light load15 V!! I don't dare to hook this up to my bike! Of course I can bleed the 3 batteries to ca. 13.5 V to make it safe, but so much capacity is lost! There has to be a common solution/ circuit: 55-41 V, ca.10 A, to a stable 40-36 V. Any suggestions???

Question by BobS   |  last reply


I want to build a push cart with x4 bicycle tyres?

I want to use bicycle wheels with the turn function of two at the back where I would steer and push from. I have no idea how to make this,just have the idea in my head, that it would be just what I need,I picture x2 tyres with the forks at the back with a wide kinda T-handle to steer left or right,other x2 fixed at the front.My main thing I guess would be the axle strength or protection from rugged bush terrain and how or what frame would suit best for what I want.But if I have plans or a tutorial video I'm sure I can.Must be light weight but able to carry 150kg , not wider than 900mm including tyres,if longer than 2metres then is it possble to have it come apart in two pieces?I don't have welding options,where I should weld I plan on drill and nuts+bolts . I've searched all over the internet for 3 days or 5 hrs a day with no luck what so ever. Hope someone can help!

Question by jess.zimmermann.9   |  last reply


NASA sent me a gift!

Hey guys, If you have or haven't known I've been an active participant in the NASA moonbuggy program throughout highschool. Every year NASA has a competition where schools, colleges, and universities throughout the world create moonbuggys and compete on a "moon course" in Huntsville Alabama for the fastest time (if the moon buggy even makes it across the terrain) Anyway, while I was in the competition there was a special event where you can have pizza with the "pioneers" (the archaic dudes that actually made the moonbuggy). It was an offer that I couldn't reject! So, I attended the secret meeting and we got to ask the "pioneers" questions. My question basically was: "If you had today's technology, what would you change about the moonbuggy?" I was looking for an answer that describes a superconducting hovercraft, but they instead talked about changing the radiator (lol, well it an awesome experience either way). What I didn't know was that my question was nominated for the "best question award" and they sent me a lunar rover book signed by the pioneers ( “Sonny” Morea, the project manager of all the space procedures at the time signed it. I don't know if it means anything to anyone these days, but it means somethin' to me!) Thats all. Thanks guys!

Topic by husamwadi   |  last reply


Need Recommendations for cheap frame materials

I have a scheme to build a kid carrier that is sort of a combination of a rickshaw, a stroller and a bike trailer. I'm thinking about using PVC for the frame, but wanted other ideas from you clever, creative people. Here are the requirements: - cost effective: titanium molded rebar may be nice, but I don't have that kind of money. - fairly strong: I'm hoping to fit 4 kids in this thing, and as such I need something that will be strong enough to hold them. - light weight: I'll be pulling this by hand, possibly over uneven terrain, so it can't weigh a ton. - easy: I have no skills or equipment for welding, so I need something that will be fairly easy to cut and assemble. - available: It needs to be something that can be procured fairly easily from a hardware store, online store, junkyard, etc.So far, the best ideas I've come up with are: - pvc - fits all the above criteria, with the possible exception of structural integrity. Anyone ever used this for framing stuff? - angle iron - could get a little heavy if I'm not careful, and I'd have to cover it to prevent injuries. - bamboo - strong and light-weight, and reasonably easy to work with, but not very readily available.Any other recommendations?

Topic by Llama Nerds   |  last reply


The New Knex Innovationists Tournament - T.N.K.I.T (Round 1 Results)

The results for the first round of the contest. Good luck to the people who moved on! -Viccie.B1993- 1st: Kairah --- Kairah's K'nex Train V01 --- 770/800 points. 2nd: Jollex --- K'nex Snowmobile --- 640/800 --- points. 3rd: (Atlas) --- Knex Pickup Truck With Suspension --- 620/800 points. 4th: Silentassasin21 --- Willy's Jeep --- 610/800 points. 5th: Knexguy --- FN-SCAR-H --- 600/800 points. 5th: ZakS95 --- K'nex Car --- 600/800 points. 6th: Serial-Cricket --- Horse Drawn Carriage --- 590/800 points. 7th: 222222222539 ---- Every Terrain Tank With Fully Automatic Turret - 580/800 points. 8th: K'nex Mad --- Knex 4WD Truck --- 550/800 points. 9th: DJ Radio --- 4WD Tank - 540/800 points. 10th: Killer~SafeCracker --- K'nex Racer --- 530/800 points. 11th: The Jamalam --- T.N.K.I.T I-Think-Entry --- 510/800 points. 12th: Owen-Mon-82397 --- K'nex Car (TNKIT Entry) --- 490/800 points. 13th: Heat-Seeker --- "Gypsy" Caravan --- 480/800 points. 14th: Cj81499 --- The New K'nex Innovations Tournement Car --- 400/800 points. 15th: AJLeece --- Random Car For TNKIT --- 360/800 points. 16th: Millawi Legend --- K'nex Tunes Puller --- 310/800 points. The people who aren't listed did not move on because they were too late. Link to round 2: https://www.instructables.com/community/The-New-Knex-Innovationists-Tournament-TNKIT-2/

Topic by Skreetsha   |  last reply


Kite-Biking? Street Luge Meets Kite Boarding Meets Tricycles

(WARNING: If I or anyone else should try this or try to recreate the idea in any way, please be safe, wear full body racing gear Like for motorcycles and such. If I do this I will definitely try to be as safe as possible.)Okay so I was fooling around on the net and ran into Turbo Pro Tricycles. http://www.primepedalkarts.com/resources/2007picturboyellowbig.jpghttp://www.primepedalkarts.com/turboproyellow.html They have a Demo Video that's about 20mb if you'd like to see some action with it. Anyway, as soon as I SAW the Trikes, I was thinking EXTREME. Basically the bikes steer like Luge boards, except you pedal them to make them go, not gravity. Well The bikes have a 'Free' gear which is used for coasting, and I was thinking with some modding, This could be an ATV or street beast (Permitted that these would be allowed in your area). Just add a Kite and steering system with the mandatory trike mods to follow (A list at the bottom) and you'd have a new (I hope) extreme sport 'KiteTriking'. I'd keep the pedals functional if possible so that when not skirting around on Kite-power you can pedal around. Although a completely other idea might be to try to motorize it electrically. (someone come up with a concept?)The mod list would most likely have to include:Some appropriately sized metal alloy wheels with racing or All-terrain tires to match.A reinforced chain or complete replacement.Brake replacements or modding to make them more efficient.Adding an Emergency Break.Reinforcing the frame.Changing the seat to a more sturdy, ergonomic one.And changing the pedals to aluminum ones.Kite mounting and emergency release mechanism.Some sort of rear storage space.

Topic by kojimagtr   |  last reply


DIY Wallet Challenge Winners!

Congratulations to everyone who entered the DIY Wallet Challenge! The variety and creativity of the wallets were impressive- you used everything from batteries to bike tires, and produced wallets in many different shapes and sizes. The entire Instructables community judged this contest- ratings and page views as recorded this morning at 10am Pacific Time determined the winners. We appreciate your help, and realized we should modify the awards to properly represent your votes.Thus, we're giving away another category of second prize- the next three highest rated wallets will also receive Instructables Robot t-shirts! First PrizeHighest ratings. Winner receives a beta Eye-Fi Eye-Film card and an Instructables Robot t-shirt.Knobby All Terrain Rubber Wallet with Optional Smack-lights (Drop Alert Sensor) by ineluctableSecond Prize- Page ViewsGreatest page veiws. Each winner receives an Instructables Robot t-shirt.Bitchin' Innertube Wallet by jmengel(eng) YAW (Yet Another Wallet) Made from recycled stuff!!! -- (esp) Cartera hecha con material reciclado by TonyRomeroSuper Thin Tyvek Card Sleeve Wallet! by marksbrenSecond Prize- RatingNext highest ratings. Each winner receives an Instructables Robot t-shirt.Accordion-Style Card Wallet by themostbobDIY: The Magic Flip Wallet! by LasVegasThe Three Card Monte- An Origami Wallet by oscheneWe also promised stickers and an Instructables patch to five lucky people who voted in the Wallet Challenge! Thanks to everyone for voting, and congratulations to our randomly-selected prize winners: rwinferriteBubbledragonBurpy DurpystumestonAll winners should check their Private Message inbox- I'll send your prize claim information this afternoon.

Topic by canida   |  last reply


Heavy duty UHF CB radio antennas and why cheap can be much better....

If you not a fan of normal road cars then you might get some 4WD and go off road every now and then.There are even those doing trips to remote locations that take a few weeks.An essential piece of equippment these days is a UHF radio.In a convoy you might get away with a handheld one if the cars are not too far apart and the terrain suitable.Most peole however opt for a permanent installation in the dash or roof console.After that decision comes the hardest and often costly part: What antenna to use....If you trust certain online reviews and manufacturer claims then one thing becomes quickly obvious.If you need a sturdy and powerful antenna then you have to pay top dollar.Some come with heavy spring bases claiming to protect the heavy fibreglass rod if you hit a bush or trees branch.There is always a compromise between weight and stability.And trust me, on the right corrugations you prefer not to look at your antenna....So how are these expensive antennas made?As I don't have any own pictures and don't want to steal them from the net: Please search for the terms used if you don't know them already.To answer this let me go to the other types of antennas you can get for your UHF radio.There is the famous rubber ducky - a stubby antenna best suited for short range on difficult terrian.Then we have the fibreglass whip antennas that have more or less coils integrated or even consist of one single coil with different spacings in sections.Good for normal road use, not so much off road as they won't tolerate too much vibration, they often snap off the base screw.Most people now just ignore the short whip antennas of 15 to 30cm length as they usually only come with a gain of around 4.5-6db.I will explain later why that might be a misconception.The last ones are those steel whips with one or two "loading" coils.These coils electrically shorten the antenna.They also provide a matching to the 50 Ohm required for most transmitters and antenna cables.Usually they are designed to be 5/8 Lambda antennas.A good antenna for just receiving, like when using a scanner is not critical in length.Transmitting however means you need a proper Standing Wave Reflection or SWR ratio.For this the antenna needs to be tuned.To be of any good use your antenna needs to match the transmitting frequency.This works best if the antenna length is at 1/2, 1/4 or 5/8 of the corresponging frequencies wavelength.Also called Lambda if you look for antennas.In the good old 27-MHz days we were used to quite long antennas in our backyard, for the car we then opted for 1/4 of this - usually around 2m in length.For UHF however 1/4 wavelength already means you are down to about 16cm...Going for 1/2 is a good thing here as it is still quite short at about 34cm.Real difference when it comes to these Lambda factors is the radion angle produced.You can imagine a 1/4 to look like a huge donut with no hole, about 25° for the radiation angle.At 1/2 this will be flattened out to around 20°.A 5/8 Lambda ntenna can get as low as 16°.Imagine it like a flashligh that has adjustable focus.The light source is of fixed output as your transmitter.The lens does the job of the antenna.If you make the beam more narrow then the light intensity of a certain areas at a certain distance will increase.Means for the radio you get a longer distance your signal can travel with enough energy.This however comes at a price!Imagine you are at the bottom of quite stepp mountain and your mate is up on the top about 2km above you.A high gain antenna with a narrow radion pattern might not even reach up there, while a short stubbie with just 3db still has a chance due to the more spherical radiation.Also explain why low gain and with that short antennas work best in hilly terrain...Back to the thick ones...As you can see you can basically hide any type of whip antenna into a fibreglass rod.But most of the are as said "ground independent", means unlike your normal whip they don't need the spring or foot to be of low resistance to your car's body.How does that work?Well, exactly like these ground independent whip antennas with a spring base or metal pole base work.You know the earliest antenna was a dipol - look it up on Wiki ;)For our CB radios that means you have a metal rod or spring that is about 1/4 or in some cases 1/4 of the wavelenght long.This is connected to the shielding of the coax cable and provides the required ground for the mounted antenna.The big difference is that only too often a dirt cheap dipol is hiding in your expensive fibreglass rod ;)The complete antenna might bring over 2kg on a scale, but the actual thing allowing you to receive and transmit is a few grams of coax cable...HOLD ON A MINUTE!! Some will say now...My whip is 70cm long and my expensive heavy duty one with 9db is 2m long - how does that work with your wavelength theory??Well, it is not my theory, just a fact ;)Imagine a 1/4 Lambda dipol, then it would be all up around 35cm long.And funny enough, that is about the length of a $180 heavy duty stubby if you just tak the rod itself.Go 1/2 of Lambda and you get an overall length of the dipol of around 65cm - add the metal rod making the crew that holds the fibreglass rod and you have the common 70-75cm heavy duty antenna...Anything above this length usually is either just a long rod with noting above the 75cm mark or simple has the 75cm long dipol made from the coax cable at the top with the antenna cable going down the otherwise empty rod.Ok, I got it, either 1/2 of the wavelength or 1/4, so about 35 or 16cm long.Ground independent we add either 1/4 for the spring base and rod or 1/2 for the longer ones.And how again does it work with the gain of an antenna?If you trust Wiki then it comes down to the radiation pattern.These heavy duty antennas usually come with around 6 or 9db, the short ones with 3-4.5db.These values might give you an indication about the theoretically possible distance you can transmit but nothing about the terrain it is suited for.Common rules of thumb created by those selling antennas and radios is that you a high gain antenna on flat terrain and a low gain antenna in a hilly area.Around 4.5-6db seems to be the golden ratio here as these anteannas are equally bad for both extremes in terms of terrain options.What you really would need to know is the actual radiation patterns in a three dimensional plane.A straight whip or dipol as a more or less donut shapead radiation pattern.However, location affects this!Mounted in the middle of the roof it is closest to perfect, while at the corner of your bumper bar you will distord the donut and also block parts out with the body of your car.This is why for this type of mounting elevated antennas are prefered.Makes no sense to have a 16cm long stubbie mounted so the top is still lower than your bonnet...Any antenna with a loading coil (or several) or top load will have a distinctively different pattern.We speak of so called "lobes".If you see it in 2D then for example a 1/2 lambda straight whip will look a bit like the infinity symbol.A 1/4 Lambda of the same style looks more like two ping pong bats joined without the handles.Those with loading coils or linear arrays made from coax cable however can produce multiple, prefered lobes.Usually they are in the 4-6db range and claim to be "universal" or as "allrounder".Here you get a quite narrow main lobe of 12-16° with one or more but much shorter lobes going upwards at about 10-30° depending on the configuration.At short range, like in hilly terrain both lobes overlap while you get a dead area at greater distances.You can sometimes notice that when you are on a low level talking to someone up high.There are cases when with a bit more difference in angle to each other (in terms of height and distance) the signal jumps up a few numbers.You just went from the dead zone into the lobe ;)With just a db value for the anteanna but no details about the actual design, heavy duty antennas can fool you badly.In mayn cases a 1/2 Lambda straight whip on the roof will outperform a costly, heavy duty antenna mounted to your bullbar.This is the reason why the expensive ones are the biggest cheat - they just elevate a quite small antenna above your roof line.And since it is heavy it needs a big spring and you hope it will not break if you hit something on a narrow track.All while the thin stainless stell whip with the cheap magnetic base just flexes under all obstacles with no damage at all.Plus, if you really get into the thick jungle you can just take the magnet off until you are through LOLWhy is a SWR and power meter still an important tool to invest into?Those remembering or still using 27-MHz radios only know too well why you need a proper SWR and power meter.With the lenght of the antenna at these low frequencies and affecting factors new the antenna proper tuning is a must.The bandwidth of the channels also means you have to tune the lowest and highest channel so the are basically even, anything else and the old guys would scream "UNACCEPTABLE!" ;)Especially it you want to get the last out of your system without going illegal.For some reason we accepted the claims that an SWR reading of around 1:2 is fine and acceptable.Most of the radios lower the power output to protect the transmitter if the SWR goes to far out.Allows for simple mass production of antennas with fixed cable lengths that are usually well overpriced.The most expensive bit is the cable itself here...I had no time to build an analog SWR and pwoer meter that works properly on 27 and 470MHz, so I ordered cheap SW30 from China.With that I first checked my little collection of antennas then those of some of my friends.This includes everything from short rubber duckies over loaded and straight whips to heavy duty models.One thing that was obvious right away: most are far away from an SWR readin anyone with a 27MHz groundplane antenna on a long mast would accept.And only one heavy duty antenna had a SWR readin of below 1:1.6 for channel 1 AND channel 40!That one was relatively cheap noname brand.With that sorted I decided to tune at least my steel whip antennas.To my utter disappointment they were all just a tiny bit too short - a thing that would have caused a proper 27MHz antenna manufacturer to to keep a large stockpile of his antennas...I had one though that was longer than needed.And before you ask: Yes, I tested them on both my elevated bullbar mount AND a direct mount on the roof rack.Did not change much for the bad ones so I ignored the mounting position for the tuning.I checked the power once for both channels on my prefered antenna and got 4.4W.Mind you that one has a SWR reading of 1:2.2 and will no longer be used as I can't be bothered to make it longer.For some reason I thought I check the SWR and power everytime I cut a bit off the antenna instead of just watching the SWR reading.At original length I had a SWR of 1:1.9 on ch40 and 1:1.75 on ch1 with 4.6W.I kept trimming down by about 2mm increments until I got an even readin of 1:1.07 on both channels.And with every trim the power went up a little bit.I have a friend that is or better, was just at the brink of being unable to reach from my driveway when he is parked in front of his house.A radio check after the tuning revealed that instead of coming with a lot of static noise and sometimes cut out I got a solid reading of 2 on his end with a much more acceptable level of noise.However, I still struggles as badly to hear him...Funny thing is that test was with just a plain and straight whip of 1/2 Lambda, in my case the tuning resulted in a length of 38cm from the base of antenna screw to the tip.My fancy 9db high gain antenna that is just over 70cm long did not even reach him while I could hear him slightly better than on my tuned one.Changing the mounting to the roof rack gave me a clear reception and a signal strength of 4 at my friends end with no noise.Elevation and nothing around the antenna does matter...After all this, would I still bother to buy a ready to go antenna for 470MHz?Only if I had to.Getting some RG58 cable or re-using it from on old antenna is cheap enough.A standard screw mount with a grub screw to hold a steel whip sets you back less than 10 bucks, from China even cheaper.And most will find a soldered on connector on the other end of an old antenna to be salvaged if required.If you don't have any sring steel wire of about 40cm length then think out of the box ;)The packing of pillows and such often come with a sring steel wire to make the plasitc floil keep its shape, some old suitaces have thicker wire doing the same.And if you ask nicely you might get a bristle or two for free from a street sweeping machine at your councils depot ;)After all we only need a maximum of 40cm to have enough left to trim and tune down.What is left to do?Of course some distance tests to check how well such a simple antenna really really works in comparison to commercial models.I only have one 9db antenna and will check it first to see if on flat terrain there is much difference in distance for transmitting.Unless this difference is well above one kilometer I will not bother with a high gain antenna like this anymore and instead opt for a longer mast and 1/2 Lambda.Another thing on the to do list to try a ground plane antenna with topload to squeeze the radion lobe down to under 15°.The resulting antenna would be quite short here and using an elevated mast is a must have to get over roof level with at leat a few wavelengths of distance to the roof.I guesstimate that an optimised antenna of this style should result in a distance increase of about 10-15km of flat terrain while being utterly useless in a hilly areas.Plus, such a design is not really suited for a vehicle going fast on a freeway, so it will go on my house instead.

Topic by Downunder35m