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Im trying to figure out how to guage how much throttle im applieing in my car. I want to have a set of lights or even just an analog guage that tells me for example that i am using 25% of my throttle. I was thinking of putting some sort of pressure switch under the gas pedal, but Im stuck on where to start. Thanks, Newman

I have a scooter controller that requires a three wire throttle. could i just splice two of the three wires together to make it a single speed? the three wires are labled as: voltage ground speed adjusting signal

I have heard that an electronic speed controller (esc) uses some power continuously even at zero throttle. What I was told was about 0.5 amps, but it seems like it would be different based on size, voltage, etc... My UAV has two 20 amp ecs's being powered by two 4.4 Ah 11.1 volt batteries and it will need to land and sit with the power on for 3 hours after flying 2 miles and then fly back. At 0.5 amps the 3 hour sit will waste 3 Ah. I will probably need to set it up so the esc's are unpowered at zero throttle but everything else will remain powered. Does anyone know a way to calculate about how much current the esc will burn at zero throttle if you know what battery, esc, and motor you have? Or do I need to measure it directly to know?

Http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WanLLnVixC4Gary Brolsma is in this video, and diet coke with Mentos, the fresh maker.

With more and more restiction hitting internet users I though I write a bit about the methods used to make our life harder than necessary. First example: Heavy gamer... Some people love their Xbox or PC for only one reason, online gaming. Too bad when all of a sudden your ping rates go sky high or the chat has a lag making good conversations during the game impossible. Second example: Streaming media... People like to watch what they want and when they want. Online streaming is a good way to get the latest trailers, catch up with your favourite shows or just to kill some time. Too bad when you notice the connection takes forever and that you can only watch in low quality without running into buffer problems. Last but not least P2P.... Although used for mainly illegal stuff, P2P is still not dead. A lot of software and even collections of documents are shared by the use of various P2P networks. Torrents are the most common ones but it really does not matter once your ISP has hit you hard. So what have all these in common when we speak about ISP troubles you might wonder? Well, firstly they cause a lot of traffic and secondly a large number of connections at the same time. Why would my ISP limit me? 1. You are using your internet for illegal downloads. Although in many cases the ISP won't be able to tell what you are downloading, but they can clearly see the volume of the downloads and that a P2P system is used. Does not take a genius to realise several GB a week on a constant base can't be all legal. 2. Cheap ISP A lot of our providers rent their bandwidth from another provider. This way they can provide cheaper prices but have to make sure not go over the allowance as it would could dearly. A good way of preventing this is to limit speed during so called peak hours - basically whenever a lot of people are online. 3. Your area.... Let's say you are living in a densly populated area. There you often have a single exchange for all internet and phone users. Although the numbers of possible users can be increased by adding more hardware, the bottleneck is the feed to this exchange. As they are owned by a single provider and every other ISP has to pay for the use it becomes clear that this provider will have the best speeds and traffic allowances for the people connected. In return the other ISP(s) will be reduced in speed and sometimes even the type of connection possible, for example blocking all P2P traffic completely. How do I find out what is happening to me? This is indeed a hard one! No ISP will tell you "Yes, we limited you to xxxx and these services are not working on your connection: ...." Their fineprint states you have internet and Email, depending where you are maybe online TV services. But this is only true for standard ports and protocols used! So for your favorite online game it might be possible to download the latest update in the GB range within minutes but still encounter a massive lag during the play sessions. Similar story for low speeds. It is common practise to prioritise traffic to local speed testing servers. This means no matter what "problem" you might have all test will give positive results. So you might be able to get high speeds in your tests but watching a Youtube video can mean to first buffer the entire video before you can watch it. You ISP won't support any requests as long as common speed tests work fine for you. A sure way of testing is to download a Linux distribution from a remote server. How long does it take to download? Now do the same using a P2P download of the same distribution. Did it take much longer or did you have problems connecting to peers? If so you are limited by your ISP. Be aware that this might be true for only one type of P2P network, while others are uneffected. For games check your Ping times against ping times done manual against a known server, for example Google. If they are close all is good, if the game ping is much higher (often in the thausands compared to around 300ms max) you are sucked into limitations. Ok, I am fairly sure I am limited by my ISP, is there anything I can do? If you mainly use the internet for illegal downloads you might want to consider going the legal way. For all others, check below. Main reasons for limits put on your account or connection are congestion (nothing you can do about except trying the ISP that owns your phone network and to pay more - and of course the amount of connections you make. Let me give you an example: Downloading a huge file from a server usually needs a single connection on port80. Doing the same using P2P services requires a lot of simultanious connections to many servers/PC's around the world. Only with enough, fast connections your download will progress at good speeds. You ISP can see the number of connections and cut them at a limit or completely disable the protocol used for the download. The result is crawling speeds for the download and you only see a few peers available. Multiplayer games often use several ports for the traffic, game status, chat, graphic updates like location of other players and so on. So if you play in a world with 8 of your friends and fight against 200 online players all these infos has to get to your system. Having a few kids all enjoying different online sessions at the same time certainly does not help either. ;) Unless you are permanently limited there are a few options to make things better: 1. Limit yourself to the off-peak times for big downloads. 2. Try to avoid multiple game sessions and downloads from a single internet connection, e.g: let the kids play with one console at a time. 3. Change the ports used by your program, sometimes the standard ports are used by everyone else around, changing them gives the ISP the option to spread the load. 4. Last and best option: Limit the amount of allowed connections. For games this is not always possible but for other services it is. Imagine your P2P program using 300 download sources at the same time. Every one has the actual data and a lot of other informations to transmit while your system has to send the receiving info to every single one. On top of all that you have the informations needed to find new peers, coordinate the parts and so on. You can limit those in the settings of the program. So instead of allowing 500 or more connections at the same time go down to 100 or less. Instead of allowing 100 half open connections (used to negotiate the download for a new peer) go down to 20. And of course limiting your own upload and the connections used for it does help a lot. Myths and alternatives.... You might have heard the things like "protocol obfuscation", "port hoppers" and similar exist, same for the "Tor" network and maybe even the "usenet". The myth behind all of them is the claim that oyur ISP won't actually see what you do and what your download. On top of that you have so called "VPN' services. Although some of the services will help you to overcome certain limits it does not change the fact that you ISP still can see your up- download volume and the number of connections in use. And trust me, they are not dumb either, so they will know anyway that you mostly use the internet for illegal downloads. After all, what reasons could you have to use encrypted services or to direct your traffic over VPN networks? Of course being in China or similar countries is a different story due to gouvernment restictions on the internet. As long as you do direct download with only a hand full of connections you should be fine, for everything else it comes down to luck. Protocol obfuscation worked for a few months until ISP's fixed it. The usenet might be an alternative but not for everyone. Even the famous Tor network or dedicated VPN services won't help you once your ISP got you flagged. The will simply limit everything besides standard protocols and ports, so you can use you Email and surf the net, even download directly for a server but everything else might be crippled. As I said earlier there is no way for the user to truely check what limits he has or what ports and protocols might be affected - you ISP won't tell you either. Before you get trapped into a new contract because your ISP is no good turn off all P2P and gaming for a day or two. Try again at night times after a reset of your modem/router. Quite often you will see it works just fine for a while. If so you can limit yourself, use off-peak times and so on. Sometimes it also helps to simply limit the download speed itself. Of course the best alternative is not to use illegal downloads and to seek local content for game servers or online video.

Hello everybody here iam going to show you the 10% throttle of the engine and 40% throttle of the engine. At 100% throttle 40pounds thrust is got. But unfortunately my LPG valve has got some restrictions so iam unable to show you guys the peak thrust. engine at 10% throttle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WBPjB0kJYI engine at 40% throttle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izwCsXbhUVM

I have a 2001 Chinese scooter, 50cc, and it has some problems... We took the handlebars off to fit it in a vehicle for transport (Yeah, stupid idea, I know now...), and now, the wiring is all messed up. First off, the electric start won't work anymore, I'm going to go through, and check a relay and the battery voltage tomorrow. Second, when I kick start it, and yes, It'll kick start, but only after 50 some kicks.. But when I kick start it, the engine starts going full throttle, but the throttle is not twisted at all. Throttle cable problem? Lastly, the turn signals are messed up a bit. The right blinker flashes one of the headlights inside of the blinker.... What the hell? All the wires are connected correctly. Please help!! Thanks!

Hello, I am writing because I have a question about a project I'm working on. I've built a gokart frame and attached a 12v 600w motor to it. And I have a Speed controller (https://ebay.to/2KUnnqe) that can handle the amps the motor is drawing but right now the only way i can control the speed is by twisting the potentiometer, and that means I cant have two hands on the steering wheel. So my question is if I can wire this foot throttle (https://ebay.to/2OChMa7) to the potentiometer and if so what wires will go to what wires and will this even work to control the speed.Thanks in advance for any answers:)

How to tune the copter for more stability? how to make it fly at higher altitude?

I have a 12.5 horse briggs motor on my craftsman and I would like to make it faster please help

I have been working on a large X525 quadcopter kit/ w/ multiwii SE v2.5 from amazon, and have had success with configuring the multiwii for the quadX configuration, however, when I arm it and try to take off, all 4 motors ramp up to speed but then cut out and continue ramping up, particularly one motor, whichever is the lowest. Balancing the quad on 2 legs, the quad seems to want to stabilize, but keeps tetering violently since the motors keep randomly cutting out. I have tried to calibrate the ESCs by connecting them individually directly to the CH3 (throttle) receiver, powering up the Tx with the throttle high,plugging in the LiPo battery, and after hearing the jingle, lowering the throttle back down to the lowest position and waiting for the first few beeps before I unplug the LiPo battery and moving on the the next ESC. I was looking at the multiwii outputs through the software and they were in fact jumping around like crazy but after taking the props off the amount of twitching did go down a little, but still about 10-20% deviation in the bars of the software readouts. I've also tried dismounting the multiwii from the quad to eliminate the possibility of vibration from the motors from causing the multiwii to attempt corrections to the motor. though it seems to have the same for as long as I could tell because by the time I tested this, the multiwii board touched the power distribution board causing magical smoke to be released. Oops! Now the multiwii is completely dead all but the green power light which is directly connected to power Vin. The board and all the chips appear completely fine with no damage, and there is voltage to the main ATmega328, I don't know if I should try desoldering the ATmega and buying a replacement, or suck it up and buy a new $30 board. For all I can tell, I do not see how other sensors could have failed since the the exposed through-hole headers that likely touched the distribution board are directly connected to the multiwii's analog/digital input/output pins, I suspect that is all that went bad is the ATmega chip, even though if shows no sign of burning and does not overheat with power applied. Anyway while I wait, I thought I will ask about this problem to see if it is something simple like sensors calibration. (w/o motors operating, the output appears as it should!!!)

WHEN I REWIRED MY EZIP 1000 ELECTRIC SCOOTER, NOTHING SEEMED TO WORK BUT WHEN I TWISTED THE THROTTLE THE POWER SWITCH LIGHT CAME ON. IT WENT OFF WHEN I RELEASED THE THROTTLE. WHAT DID I DO WRONG?

I am trying to connect 4 ESCs with a FlySku 6 Channel Receiver. I managed to connect all four of them to the throttle channel and it works fine. However, is it possible to connect them to other channels wiht them being plugged in the throttle channel at the same time? I am making a quad-copter and I am not sure what channels to use? like I know that we need the throttle channel to change the throttle and the motor speed. but like to change the pitch, roll and yaw, we need the other channels too right? So can anyone please guide me through it? I am using a flycky CT6B transmitter and a 6 channel receiver.

Hello guys I am making a quadcopter using Arduino uno. My first simple aim is to lift and hover the quadcopter.  To achieve this aim  I have connected the signal Wire of all the ESC's to arduino Pin 9 and giving throttle via node server using bluetooth module and johnny five library.  My quadcopter lifts from 2 sides (flips) and sometimes little bit from 3rd side also.  Can anyone suggest me anything ? The thing which I am doing giving equal throttle to all motor, Is it right ? or  should I give more throttle to clockwise and little less throttle to counter clock wise motors. I will be very thankful, if you guys help me to lift my quadcopter

I've bought 3 ebikes one a Raleigh select,p/assist, one a throttle type, but wires on 1of the other bikes I've bought,the wires that lead into hubmotor are cut they don't seem to connect via a hole in wheel axle/spindle,so need help please,also the p/assist Raleigh can it be converted to throttle powered, as its a very old ebike with a sanyo hubmotor? Thanks...

Meet the world's fastest ever road vehicle built to reach an astonishing top speed of 340mph.The Acabion GTBO uses jet fighter technology and aerodynamics to reach its extraordinary speed propelled by a state-of-the-art turbo-charged engine.Its designers revealed it could reach 300mph in a blistering 30 seconds - substantially quicker than the rival Bugatti Veyron which takes 55 seconds to reach its top speed of 250mph.Good grief, that would rattle your teeth!The article implies that an electric version is in the pipeline as well.Daily Mail story750 hp and 700 lbs vehicle weight result in more than 2100 hp per ton. They boost the jet-like GTBO to jet-fighter punch and to new dimensions of both efficiency and speed.V-max 340 mph at half throttle, governor limited.0 to 300 mph in less than 30 sec.Economic theories tell us, that you can not maximize effect and minimize effort at the same time. The Acabion GTBO proves the opposite. It minimizes weight and maximizes power and aerodynamic efficiency. The effects are just out of this world.100 mph at 1.7% throttle and 100 miles per gallon.150 mph at 4.3% throttle and 62 miles per gallon.250 mph at 17% throttle and 25 miles per gallon.Acabion websiteMore photos at Jalopnik

Hi guys, I am new to this multirotor domain. We are strugling with our first F450 quad. Below are the specs: 1. F450 quadcopter chassis 2. KK2.1 Flight controller. 3. FLYSKY CT6B --- 6 channel radio transmitter 4. 1400 KV Brushless motor 5. 30 amps ESC 6. Lipo battery Firstly the quad was not taking off properly. More over, after activating self level mode also, the quad is not at all stable. If we max up the throttle, then it flips in one side and crashes. Otherwise, it takes off from the ground upto 1-2 feet if we slowly increase the throttle and then oscillates and to avoid crash, we then decrease the throttle. Please see the video HERE for more reference. Please guys, really need your help in this matter. We are not able to understand exactly what is wrong with our quad. We have already calibrated our ESC's and the Accelarometer but no luck. Please help guys.

Edit: The solution for the MT with the Bosch CF650-7 ECU is suprisingly simple.I managed to get the intended poer without the requirement to flash the ECU.You can find the steps I took over at D.I.Y Forums.When it comes to motorcycles with restrictions then Australia seems to be pretty much alone in the world.Despite an abundance of bike to choose from that would fit weight/power limitations it seems to be common to go overboard here.As a result basically all popular motorbikes up the 650ccm hit the AU market in a restricted form if they don't match the limitations by default.For someone in the US just reading this might sounds like a useless concept to get people to learn how to ride a motorcycle.As a fully licensed rider and being on a budget a bike for just over half the price of a Japanase model is still tempting.And for general touring use the MT is actually quite a comfortable bike.Big downside is the impossiblity to get certain bikes in an unrestricted form.For the Cfmoto's of the older type, running the Ducati ECU it is as simple as adding a suitable fuel/ignition tuner module and removing the physical restrictions.The newer models from 2017 onwards use a more reliable Bosch ECU though.With them it is appearently possible to use BWM tuning module but with the requirement to do a full remap on a Dyno.The 2018 MT is my bike, so I will focus on this, but the gerneral things are identical on all the Cfmoto 650 models.A word on the legal things first....Outside AU none of this concerns you as your Cfmoto will come unrestricted anyways.Within AU however we are subject to several laws that make the legal modification of a so called LAMS motorcycle virtually impossible.You can even put a different exhaust or airfilter on them without risking to loose your license and get some hefty fines.As a fully licensed rider however the law often turns a blind eye on these things as they don't really matter as long as they won't affect the safety of the bike, rider or other road users.With the plated riders out for now, let's focus on the options for a fully licensed rider, shall we?There is no need for a RWC or anything if you already owned the bike in the LAMS version.But if you try, for example, to go to Vicroads and have the registration details changed to reflect that the bike is now running with it's full factory default power, or a bit more you are lost.Two reasons for this.Firstly Cfmoto did not bother to import and register for road use any unrestricted version of the 650's.Secondly the VIN number and engine number are fixed in a database for LAMS only bikes.You would need a full engeneering certificate to register the bike in any modified version that affects the power output or reduces the weight of the bike.Sets you back about 10.000 dollars and still won't garantee that Vicroads actually transform it into a legal, unrestricted bike.The police has little to no interest in what a fully licensed rider does to a bike - within the usual limits of course.And since you would not sell the bike without fully reverting it back to the LAMS state the risk of prosecution can be fully minimised:If your insurer agrees to provide full comprehensive cover once the bike is (properly) reverted to what the international models are it is down to serious accidents that might still cause trouble.For example when you cause severe injuries to someone else the bike would be checked for modifications that could have had an influence on the accident.My insurer explained it like this:If the bike is checked roadworthyness after an accident it would fail because it is no longer LAMS compliant.That would automatically default the rider to be responsible for the accident even if not at fault at all.With that it is mandatory to have all the details about the modifications listed and validated in the insurance policy!Adding a tuning module for example would mean providing a fully Dyno chart with a safety confirmation from a licensed vehicle tester.For example the confirmation would state that a power Commander with Auto Tune module was installed together with a slip on exhaust system.Bike specifications allow for the save use with said modifications based on the results of the Dyno runs.With that the rider is put back into legal territory as the insurer stands for the roadworthyness of the modifications.It certainly helps to just stick with the default options and to provide the Cfmoto cert copy from the same international version of the bike.A plated rider should never attempt any of this as it still means there is no way to get away - legally and financially!Possible tuning options for the LAMS versions:Adding one the usualy tuning modules is not only pain but also costly if done properly.Being a LAMS bike you will have a hard finding a reputable shop to install a tuning module for you.Doing it yourself can be tricky, especially if you consider that the default wire colors are often different on the bike.Takes a few hours to check the wiring diagram, follow and measure connections and then to finally risk starting the bike....It works though if you know what you doing.Biggest downside is that you won't find any ready to go maps that you can use.And trust me trying to modify fuel or ignition maps yourself is not for the faint of heart and only an option if you a) know what you are doing and b) have the tools for it.There is a good chance the bike actually runs worse than without the module.Now the obvious solution would be to go for some Dyno runs and to have it all setup properly.Again, with a LAMS bike you will have a hard time finding a licensed and reputable shop to take your bike in.If you find one that does it anyway than it really is best to go for the full package and to suck the costs up.Let them supply the required modules, sensors and all, deal with the airbox and throttle limiter.Then have the usual 3-4 Dyno runs to get the mapping done properly.This approached worked perfectly fine for the older bikes using the Ducati ECU.The new models with the Bosch ECU might still struggle to accept the tuning changes.Reason for this is the checking of literally all sensor informations.Means the tuning module must cater for this and not just fool the O2 and TPS sensor readings.Just removing the throttle limiter and airbox restrictions will cause the bike to run too hot very quickly and also puts your ECU into a lean default mode once you see ECU errors flashing on the dash.Real tuning options that won't have a chance to harm the engine:With all models available internationally and without any restrictions it is relatively easy to find a wrecker in the US, EU or even Asia to supply parts from crashed bikes or those confiscated for destruction by dismantling them.If you are a fully licensed rider and after a bargain or love your first bike so much that you want to keep it once the plates are gone:Organise the ECU, airbox and throttle body from any part of the world except Australia.Sometimes you even find them on Ebay so pay attention to the sellers home country (some AU sellers go international and would then just get the same what is already in your bike ;) )!!Why not just the ECU you ask?Our airbox has added restrictors, just removing is not the best option as they are also responsible for causing required turbulences in the airflow.A straight through or even pot filter option would again require ECU tuning.As said, talking stock here...The throttle body might not be required to get the full power the bike is intended for but you never know for sure.If in doubt pay a few bucks more and have the injectors and sensors included as well ;)But why would I want to pay for a throttle body if it is not 100% certain I would require it?It would'n t have the screw hole for the throttle limiter ;)This tiny detail can be of importance if you go the full lenght, more on that later.With those three components (or two if you want to go without the throttle body) you have a stock international version of the 650.Makes it relatively easy to convince your insurer that the bike is safe to use in this configuration.Adding just a slip on is no problem either as the normal ECU runs quite rich in the higher RPM's anyway and the new exhaust would not make too much mess here.But adding a less restrictive airfilter will need Dyno tuning.Going the full length, especially interesting if you buy a second hand Cfmoto.It will take you a lot of Emails and some overseas phone calls but it is possible to find a wrecker that can sell you the registration plates for the frame of the bike - legally if said wrecker is allowed to sell frame number for rebuilds.Adding this plate to your order means your second hand bike can be deregistered, sadly this means unless you pay extra you need to hand in the numberplates as well.No big deal however if the bike comes without numberplates anyway.Once you installed all parts and replaced the frame ID plate you take the bike for normal RWC check and get your green slip.With that you go and ask to register your bike with new (or your old) numberplates.The Vin will not show up in their database and a red flag comes up, prompting some questions from the offcial behind the counter.The bike you know have is an imported model you got for cheap when you saw it for sale in some carpark with a blown engine.As the actual engines are identical you replaced the blown engine with one from an AU bike that crashed and was written off.In return you now pay a slightly higher than usual transfer fee but get the bike registered as he international model without LAMS restrictions.Even the engine showing up as a LAMS engine is of no concers here as there is no legal reason to not allow the use of a lower powered engine in a motorcycle.You insurance polcy will also go up a few bucks but that is not really worth crying about now anymore.Once you go out with your numberplates you can enjoy a legally derestricted (imported) Cfmoto.Ok, I got it an I say I am a fully licences rider that does not care too much and wants to go as cheap as possible...A brand new ECU from China sets you back about $400AU.Downside is that you are never 100% certain the mapping will fit what is installed on your bike.There might be differences for the US or EU market, not so much though for Asia - so ask for what market region the ECU is intendet and prefer the Asia market here.The airbox limiters should be safe to remove but you might have to make simple plates up to install so the air turbulences are within specs - you will notice if the bike runs really crappy in the high revs and struggles to provide power to the wheel...Unless Cfmoto actually include more limitations in or around the throttle body going with stock should be fine - flashing ECU error will tell you if not.Postage from China can be a pain, not so much for time it takes but for the money charged to use proper and trusted courier services.Up to $100 just for postage is not uncommon but also means the parts are your within a week or 10 days most.Some provide cheap flat rates but both have the risk of being asked to pay import duties if held by AU costoms.Going second hand from some wrecker outside AU can be slightly cheaper for the ECU but again postage can a pain on the pocket.The obvious downside is that the bike with such a simple and direct mod would be still a LAMS bike and if checked make it illegal to use with all the corresponding consequences for the rider - even if fully licensed, please check the above insurance part again if you must.If done properly and maybe even with a slip on: what gains are we talking about in actual figures on the wheel?To be honest not really that much at all, the bike is just too heavy.But the response will improve noticable!The bike pulls out of corners with ease now and no longer requires you shift through the gears with a screaming engine.Imagine you have a small, 4-cylinder car and went on a long holiday trip with your heavy camping trailer always attached.Holidays are over, you unhook the camper and go for a quick run to the shops for supplies.It is that wow feeling that you get when you take off with the weight gone...The gears run higher with a more evenly distributed power instead of just a narrow window of RPM's with enough power to pull away.The KW and RPM values are available on the Cfmoto homepages.What about top speed?I managed to get to a full 110km/h !! ;)For anything above that ask your local Dyno please or pay for a day on the track.What if the police gets me and makes trouble because of the modifications?A well trained officer in a bad mood will always be your nightmare.So I won't go into the troubles if you still need plates or just got your full license a few days ago...You are allowed to ride any road legal motorcycle, no matter the power ratings.However, a really pesky cop wanting to go by the full book on you will use the computer to check your bike and registration details.And if he knows the most obvious non-legal mods to LAMS bikes, like the shiny exhaust you will need a lift home.Chances are though that a clean driving record and having your full license for a few years indicates that you actually know how to handle your bike properly.That is the point where your honesty and details with the insurance company matter.Preferably with you having a copy of your policy with you when riding the bike.With that you can always argue the modifications are documented and approved by your insurer and corresponding vehicle tester.Makes it then only a minor offence for not being LAMS conform.The paperwork to fight you on what your insurer singed off for is just not worth it with a possible drunk driver getting past while you argue....Legally they can still book you or even take the bike but do they ever bother to take those Harleys or street racers with screaming exhausts you hear from miles away before you even see the bike? ;)As said, it comes down to a LAMS offense that is fully covered by your insurer and with that not really worth making a big fuzz about.If you got pulled over for speeding or other offenses the story will be different though as it then could be argued you made these modifications with the INTENT of illegal activities - like speeding or pulling stunts that are not allowed on public roads.Here you insurer can refuse the cover the same way they would for the same offences on a fully legally unrestricted bike.Is it worth taking the risk?No, it is not!If you are after a bike with good handling and power you would not ride a Cfmoto...As a true LAMS bike the resale value is actually quite good if the bike is kept in good condition.Modified you will have a hard time selling it as no learner would take the risk - a working brain assumed here.For a keeper once fully licensed or someone on a budget it can be quite tempting.After all, it leaves a nagging feeling if have a full license and sit on a restricted bike....You always have to explain what you ride and why anyway every time you pull over where chatty bikers are around.Selling the bike in good condition and maybe together with the extras you got over the years might be enough to justify the extra for a second hand bike from Asia, Italy or Austria and give you more leasure and pleasure in the long run.Doing it properly and in the most legal way costs quite a few bucks.If you add this to the current asking price of around 7500 ride away will add at least another $1500.Depending on the exhaust system even more.If you require proper identification and tracing of things like VIN plates it can be clse to $2000.At this point you already see really only makes sense it is a cheap second hand bike, whicj makes the entire approach a bit questionable anyway.With now close to $10.000 for a new bike the difference to a well known brand with maybe a better reputation is not that big anymore.The bike would already be unrestricted and making road legal modification wouldn't interest anyone.Not to mention of course the warranty issues as Cfmoto won't honor any of it if you modify new LAMS bike!Now add the possible costs for repairs or parts that would otherwise be free and free of labour costs and the bargain becomes very expensive before the warranty period is over.There will be the point where you ask yourself why did you bother in the first place....Warranty....Once modded the factory warranty is void so to say.Problem here is that the law is intentionally unclear on the reasons and options applicable here.As the bike would (without exhaust mod) be just like any international model the law states the warranty must be granted.However, Cfmoto has the right to refuse it anyway based on the exclusions required by law to prevent non-LAMS conform bikes from getting back on the road.A blown engine with a proper service history would be no big deal without this.The right to refuse a free warranty replacement for covered parts if the bike was not serviced by a licensed dealer is something car manufacturers already failed with.Cfmoto however will argue that their terms and conditions always superseed any Australian laws or regulations unless it was legally shown that one or more sections are actually invalid in Australia.This includes any evident or suspected tampering with the LAMS restrictions.If in doubt an ECU reading would indicate the impossible throttle positions used and the different ECU.Means even once the warranty is over you can't really take your bike to your dealer for a service or just a check without risking troubles.Some say this is still not enough to deter restricted drivers, I say that any fully licensed rider should have the right to enjoy his bike without LAMS restrictions.But if in doubt Cfmoto is always right, no matter how they argue.Last words from the wise camel....If you are fully licensed it is entirely your choice what you do with your bike and how you deal with - or interprete possible legal issues.Anyone required to display plates should just not think about modding the bike, it is not worth the risk.Although not really a big deal for an experienced rider, the added power and better response can cause a bad judgement.You might have been happy to open her up fully around your favourite hiarpin bend but now it could mean you loose traction even if don't try to break your LAMS approved speed record.Especially when things get a bit slippery and unexpected it can be difficult to prevent the heavy beast from going down.Never underestimate what you can't see and react to in time!Never overestimate your skills or the bikes real capabilities in terms of handling and grip!Once you are fully used to the different response you are fine, until then it is better to play it safe instead of ending up to be very, very sorry....

I have an electric billy cart with a dead controller board. I constructed the kit circuit below to replace the dead board and it works well enough for the job except for one small problem. The throttle on the billy cart utilizes a hall effect device and not a pot. The billy cart also has a handbrake with a switch that closes when applied. I use this with a resistor to discharge C2 and pull pin 4 (inhibit) high. This ensures a gentle start (as the capacitor slowly charges through the 100k resistor) if the brake is released with the throttle advanced. The output range of the throttle is 950 mV to 4.1 V if VREF (5V) is used as the supply. (I'm dropping it in in place of the pot.) 4.1 V is sufficient to achieve the maximum 90% duty cycle of the chip, but 950 mV leaves me with a minimum duty cycle of about 21%, and of course a motor that won't stop. Will changing the divider ratios 20k/2k2 & 47k/47k be sufficient to get me zero speed or am I going to have to do something more exotic? Thanks in advance.

I've already got a new carb,fresh gas with correct oil mixture, i replaced the piston and rings, yet i still find small amounts of oil on the spark plug, is this normal?  it starts and runs but cuts off when i try to ride it.       ????

Hello, I have a question. I need to combine my code for my Arduino project. I'm using a Arduino micro board .  The 2 codes are maxsonar and another is a flying drones coding. I'm lost and don't know how to combine the both of them as the maxsonar code will overwrite the flying drones code causing it unable to fly. Maxsonar code const int anPin1 = 0; const int anPin2 = 1; int triggerPin1 = 13; long distance1, distance2, cm1 ,cm2; void setup() {   Serial.begin(9600);  // sets the serial port to 9600   pinMode(triggerPin1, OUTPUT);   pinMode(A5, OUTPUT);   pinMode(A11, OUTPUT); } void start_sensor(){   digitalWrite(triggerPin1,HIGH);   delay(1);   digitalWrite(triggerPin1,LOW); } void Fading()//led1 { if (distance1 == 9) {    analogWrite(A5,25.5);     delay(10); } else if (distance1 == 8) {    analogWrite(A5,76.5);     delay(10); } else if( distance1 == 7) {    analogWrite(A5,153);     delay(10); } else if(distance1 == 6) {    analogWrite(A5,255);     delay(10); }   }   void Fading2()//led1 {   if (distance2 == 9) {    analogWrite(A11,25.5);     delay(10); } else if (distance2 == 8) {    analogWrite(A11,76.5);     delay(10); } else if( distance2 == 7) {    analogWrite(A11,153);     delay(10); } else if(distance2 == 6 ) {    analogWrite(A11,255);     delay(10); }   }   void read_sensors(){   /*   Scale factor is (Vcc/512) per inch. A 5V supply yields ~9.8mV/in   Arduino analog pin goes from 0 to 1024, so the value has to be divided by 2 to get the actual inches   */   distance1 = analogRead(anPin1)/2;   distance2 = analogRead(anPin2)/2; } void count_in_cm() {   cm1 = distance1 * 2.54;   cm2 = distance2 * 2.54; } void print_all() {     if( distance1 <10 && distance2 >=10 )   {   Fading();   analogWrite(A11,0);   Serial.print("Sensor1: Warning");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print("S2");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(distance2);                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Serial.print("in");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(cm2);   Serial.print("cm");   Serial.println();   delay(700);     }   else if(distance1 >= 10 && distance2 < 10)   {   Fading2();   analogWrite(A5,0);   Serial.print("S1");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(distance1);   Serial.print("in");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(cm1);   Serial.print("cm");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print("Sensor2: Warning");   Serial.println();   delay(700);   }   else if (distance1 < 10 && distance2 < 10)   {     Fading();     Fading2();     Serial.print("Sensor1: Warning");     Serial.print("  ");     Serial.print("Sensor2: Warning");     Serial.println();     delay(700);      }   else   {   analogWrite(A11,0);   analogWrite(A5,0);   Serial.print("S1");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(distance1);   Serial.print("in");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(cm1);   Serial.print("cm");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");    Serial.print("S2");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(distance2);   Serial.print("in");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(" ");   Serial.print(cm2);   Serial.print("cm");   Serial.println();   delay(700);   } } void loop() {   start_sensor();   read_sensors();   count_in_cm();   print_all();   delay(200); //This is the equivant of the amount of sensors times 50.  If you changed this to 5 sensors the delay would be 250. } flying drone code #include #include // channel declaration Servo channel1; // throttle Servo channel2; // yaw Servo channel3; // pitch Servo channel4; // roll Servo channel5; // ball drop servo // PWM freq setting, should it be 62.33Hz? const int PWMConst = 20022;//50HZ // global variables byte incomingByte, incomingByteUSB; byte rcBuffer[32], usbBuffer[12]; int i = 0, j = 0, STATE = 1; int Flag = 0, usbFlag = 0; unsigned int thr_16int = 0, yaw_16int = 0, pit_16int = 0, rol_16int = 0, gear_16int = 0; unsigned int thr_16int_usb = 0, yaw_16int_usb = 0, pit_16int_usb = 0, rol_16int_usb = 0; float throttle = 1000, roll = 1500, pitch = 1500, yaw = 1500; int gear = 1500; float currT, prevT = 0, _flagHover, throFlag; // functions declaration void extract_RC_cmd(void); void extract_USB_cmd(void); void translate_RC_cmd(void); void translate_USB_cmd(void); void RC_Neutral(void); void reset_usb(void); void reset_rc(void); void hover(void); void sonar(void); void setup() {   // setting registers   TCCR1A = _BV(COM1A1) | _BV(COM1B1);   TCCR1B = _BV(WGM13) | _BV(CS11);   ICR1 = PWMConst;   // set PWM I/O ports   channel1.attach(6);    // throttle   channel2.attach(9);    // yaw   channel3.attach(5);    // pitch   channel4.attach(10);    // roll   channel5.attach(11);   // fail safe-attit   //init usb buffer   usbBuffer[0] = 0x03;   usbBuffer[1] = 0xE8;   usbBuffer[2] = 0x0D;   usbBuffer[3] = 0xAC;   usbBuffer[4] = 0x15;   usbBuffer[5] = 0x7C;   usbBuffer[6] = 0x1D;   usbBuffer[7] = 0x4C;   reset_rc();   reset_usb();   Serial1.begin(115200);   // rc Rx data in   Serial.begin(115200);     // USB } void loop() {   // accept serial data from computer   if (Serial.available() > 0)   {     incomingByteUSB = Serial.read();     if (incomingByteUSB >= 0x03 && incomingByteUSB <= 0x07)     {       usbFlag = 1;     }     if (usbFlag == 1)     {       usbBuffer[j] = incomingByteUSB;       j++;       if (j == 12)       {         usbFlag = 0;         j = 0;         extract_USB_cmd();       }     }   }   // accepte serial data from RC   if (Serial1.available() > 0)   {     incomingByte = Serial1.read();     if (incomingByte >= 0x80 && incomingByte <= 0x87)     {       Flag = 1;     }     if (Flag == 1)     {       rcBuffer[i] = incomingByte;       i++;       if (i == 32)       {         Flag = 0;         i = 0;         extract_RC_cmd();       }     }     // Serial.print(rcBuffer[i]);   }   // STATE MACHINE   switch (STATE)   {     case 1:       translate_USB_cmd();       reset_rc();       //Serial.print();       break;     case 2:       translate_RC_cmd();       reset_usb();       //Serial.print('R');       break;     case 3:       landing();       break;     default:       RC_Neutral();       break;   }     // output PWM   channel1.write(throttle);   channel2.write(yaw);   channel3.write(pitch);   channel4.write(roll);   channel5.write(gear); } // local functions void extract_RC_cmd() {   if (rcBuffer[0] >= 0x80 && rcBuffer[0] <= 0x87) // double check throttle range   {     thr_16int = rcBuffer[0] << 8 | rcBuffer[1]; // 16 bit throttle     // Serial.print(thr_16int);   }   if (rcBuffer[4] >= 0x19 && rcBuffer[4] <= 0x1E) // double check yaw range   {     yaw_16int = rcBuffer[4] << 8 | rcBuffer[5]; // 16 bit yaw     //Serial.print(yaw_16int);   }   if (rcBuffer[16] >= 0x09 && rcBuffer[16] <= 0x0E) // double check yaw range   {     rol_16int = rcBuffer[16] << 8 | rcBuffer[17]; // 16 bit yaw     //Serial.print(rol_16int);   }   if (rcBuffer[20] >= 0x11 && rcBuffer[20] <= 0x16) // double check yaw range   {     pit_16int = rcBuffer[20] << 8 | rcBuffer[21]; // 16 bit yaw     //Serial.print(pit_16int);   }   if (rcBuffer[22] >= 0x21 && rcBuffer[22] <= 0x26) // double check gear range   {     gear_16int = rcBuffer[22] << 8 | rcBuffer[23]; // 16 bit pitch     //Serial.print(pit_16int);   }   // state   if (rcBuffer[24] == 0x37 && rcBuffer[25] == 0xE0)    // Fmode SW state 1: Auto   {     STATE = 1;   }   else if (rcBuffer[24] == 0x34 && rcBuffer[25] == 0x00) // Fmode SW state 2: Manual   {     STATE = 2;   }   else if (rcBuffer[24] == 0x31 && rcBuffer[25] == 0xB4) // Fmode SW state 3: Emergency landing   {     STATE = 3;   } } void extract_USB_cmd(void) {   if (usbBuffer[0] >= 0x03 && usbBuffer[0] <= 0x07) // double check throttle range   {     thr_16int_usb = usbBuffer[0] << 8 | usbBuffer[1]; // 16 bit throttle   }   if (usbBuffer[2] >= 0x0B && usbBuffer[2] <= 0x0F) // double check yaw range   {     yaw_16int_usb = usbBuffer[2] << 8 | usbBuffer[3]; // 16 bit yaw   }   if (usbBuffer[4] >= 0x13 && usbBuffer[4] <= 0x17) // double check pit range   {     pit_16int_usb = usbBuffer[4] << 8 | usbBuffer[5]; // 16 bit pitch   }   if (usbBuffer[6] >= 0x1B && usbBuffer[6] <= 0x1F) // double check rol range   {     rol_16int_usb = usbBuffer[6] << 8 | usbBuffer[7]; // 16 bit role   }   // state   if (usbBuffer[10] == 0x2A && usbBuffer[11] == 0xF8)   {     //state = 1; // auto   }   else if (usbBuffer[10] == 0x2C && usbBuffer[11] == 0xEC)   {     STATE = 3; // emergency landing   }   else if (usbBuffer[10] == 0x2E && usbBuffer[11] == 0xE0)   {     STATE = 0; // default rc neutral   } } void translate_RC_cmd(void) {   throttle = (thr_16int - 30752 ) / 2.016;   yaw   = (9243 - yaw_16int) / 1.382;   pitch = (pit_16int - 3047) / 1.378;   roll  = (5129 - rol_16int) / 1.373;   gear  = (gear_16int - 7506) / 1.165;   throttle = min(2000, max(1000, throttle));   yaw      = min(2000, max(1000, yaw));   pitch    = min(2000, max(1000, pitch));   roll     = min(2000, max(1000, roll));   gear     = min(2000, max(1000, gear)); } void translate_USB_cmd(void) {   throttle = thr_16int_usb;   yaw = yaw_16int_usb - 2000;   pitch = pit_16int_usb - 4000;   roll =  rol_16int_usb - 6000;   //Serial.print(thr_16int_usb);   throttle = min(2000, max(1000, throttle));   yaw      = min(2000, max(1000, yaw));   pitch    = min(2000, max(1000, pitch));   roll     = min(2000, max(1000, roll)); } void RC_Neutral(void) {   throttle = 1000;   yaw = 1500;   pitch = 1500;   roll = 1500; } void landing(void) {   throttle = throttle - 1;   if (throttle <= 1000) throttle = 1000;   yaw = 1500;   pitch = 1500;   roll = 1500; } void reset_usb(void) {   thr_16int_usb = 1000;   yaw_16int_usb = 3500;   pit_16int_usb = 5500;   rol_16int_usb = 7500; } void reset_rc(void) {   thr_16int = 0x8000;   yaw_16int = 0x1C03;   pit_16int = 0x13FD;   rol_16int = 0x0C07; }

I inherited a Currie E Bike conversion kit which included the rear wheel and drive motor assembly and battery pack/charger combo. It did not include the wiring harness or throttle. I did find a generic throttle/control on ebay. The kit did not have the rack that I've seen in other pictures, so I will make my own. Does anyone know enough about these to know the wiring layout or any other parts that are needed? I have a bike already to convert. I can solder and do most of my own bike repairs and some fabrication, so this doesn't appear above my usual skill level. Thanks in advance for any help. Jim

Ok, So I am a tinkerer Last month we we're at the Lake and my 5 YearOld and my 4 YearOld decided that they want a BOAT..  So being the Father that I am, Became flooded with giving MY kids a boat unlike anyone's. SO Began the Brain Storm. Picked up a Cheap "BROKEN" Trolling motor, and a Toy Sandpit from a friend.. SANDPIT holds water, Must hold OUT water as well... Want to build small "Transom" out of PVC fittings that will fit snugly in Aft. Also would like to fashion a way to use the Steering wheel, that I don't have yet... to Either turn the Motor or Manipulate a Rudder of some Sort.. Also a Throttle set up unfortionitely to turn the throttle into the forward position it turns Clockwise.. not counter clockwise, which would allow me to mount it somehow on the right side, Like a Real boats Throttle control.. have some Thick HDPE Sheeting, that molds fairly well when heated.. and Also the Trolling motor... Pictures Included.. Please ANY Ideas would be Greatly Appreciated.. My Son and Daughter want a TUGBOAT, which thankfully this lends itself to PERFECTLY!!!!

My two stroke honda 250 cc 1997 dirtbike is having trouble idling without me giving it constant throttle.  What are some of the things I could do to perhaps fix this problem?

I have a decent computer (XP, ~1.5 Ghz CPU). I love dogfighting but that's not all I do. I have a joystick and throttle (pretty crappy but I might upgrade soon as well as get some rudder pedels).

I have a two stroke weed eater engine (actually from a tiller but it's the exact same) and I am having trouble getting it to run. I have the carb screw tightened all the way so the carb is opened up as much as it can be but when I start it, it coughs like it wants to die then it dies. If I squeeze the throttle a little it will continue running or if I squeeze it all the way it will still run. It just won't run if I let it sit. Also, I am intending to use it to put on a bike and it has a clutch but it doesn't really work that well. It will engage without even squeezing the throttle. Any idea of where I can get a small geared clutch that will fit it? Thanks.

Hi All! My brother and I are building an e-bike and we THINK we know how to attach a throttle, but it might blow up the battery... if worse comes to worse then we have a toggle button we can install but it's not really ideal. I've attached a circuit diagram below of how everything goes together, but this is my thinking; With nobody touching the throttle, in my circuit, wont i have a current flowing from the battery anode via the potentiometer straight back into the battery cathode? This results in a huge waste of energy doesnt it? And the battery would drain even when the bike is stored in a hallway overnight.  So, does anybody know if this circuit will work? i need it to take energy from the battery ONLY when active.

.wont idle correctly, under throttle it skips, loses power like it's starving for fuel.  I've replaced, idler air control motor, ignition coil, cap and rotor, fuel tank, high volume fuel pump, plugs and wires and fuel pressure regulator.  Could it be the distributor itself or does anyone have a solution?

i made a motor bike and i rode it over 137 miles so far, it hasn't given me much problems except one day it lost compression so i rebuilt it and i put in a new sparkplug and rebuilt the carb after it was running better than ever and the next day i went to ride it and it wouldn't start so i cleaned the carb again, then it was working again but it was like there wasn't any gas, i used to be able to go 29mph now i can only go 16mph with the wind, if i give it too much throttle it will bog down and slow down, so i can only give 1/4 throttle. i have tried messing with the pin in the carb and the tuning screw but they don't seem to do any  thing, what is wrong?

I have an old moped that I got for cheap and I am trying to fix it up. I replaced the carburetor and the new one is a little bigger even though it is off of another 50cc. It insisted on running extremely lean, but I was able to get the fuel/air mix balanced by putting some foil tape over part of the intake to get more vacuum behind it. It will only run right if the exhaust is on so that it is not lined up perfectly with the exhaust port on the cylinder. If the exhaust is taken off it will start first kick, but if it is lined up the way it should be it will not start. I took it off today and when I put it back on as close to the way it was before it would start but is now running very lean, beyond what I can tune out with the carburetor. If I give it full throttle it bogs and has no power, but it has fair power at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. It also is getting really hot and has absolutely no power once it gets very hot. Yesterday I hat it all just right and it ran with none of these problems except that full throttle was still not where it got full power. Does any one have any ideas about what I have to do to make it run right? Maybe there is no option but careful misalignment of the muffler? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It turns out that the problems were that the muffler was clogged, and that it was running too lean at first, but too rich once it warmed up. Thank you for you suggestions.

Could use some assistance here.Required: An activation switch that relies on two pressure sensors and a voltage sensing input and a manual activation switchI am trying to use an arduino as the mastermind to activate a relay based on 3 inputs; 1200-1500psi transducer, 40-60psi fuel pressure sensor and a 4.8v max throttle position sensor.The Arduino once receiving an input from my arming switch, will check the sensors/inputs and if values are met will send an activation voltage to the relay, which will in turn activate my nitrous oxide and fuel solinoids.I may consider adding a small LCD to show what is ready and if the system is armed and activated.[Arm Switch]----》 [Arduino] [Checks]----》[Fuel Pressure Sensor]----》[ready/not ready] [Checks]----》[N2O Pressure Transducer]----》[ready/not ready] [Checks]----》[TPS voltage (4.8v=wide open throttle)]----》[ready/not ready][Arduino (if all ready)]----》 [Relay is activated]

   Hey everyone. I have a question about a  linear actuator that I'm putting on my sawmill to control the throttle. On a sawmill you either need to be full throttle or idle. I've already got the actuator mounted and it works great. Now I need a controller for it. I've got a keyless remote from a auto parts store that I would like to use. I also would like to have a hard wired button. The kicker is that I would like to be able to push a button on the remote or the wired button and the actuator go all the way out. And then push the same button and it come all the way in. The actuator has built in limit switches so it will stop on its on either all the way out or in. This may not be feasible for me to do but I was just thinking by using relays it may be. If I can't use just the one button then I'll have to use two. There should be no need for a stop button since the actuator has a limit switch at both ends. Thanks

Hi! For €100 i can get an electric skateboard which has 3 12v 10AH batteries and a 600w motor with belt drive to the rear axle. Claimed top speed is 25km/h. Including is charger and throttle controller. could this be a good idea? I would need to mount the motor somewhere i still have no idea....

I need help making an electric go kart, any answers would be helpful from what kind of engine type (wet cell, dry cell, hub motors, etc.) to how to make an throttle ans steering for it. Thank you!

I'm converting an old mountain bike into a motorized dirt bike kind of thing using a small lawnmower engine. I want to know how to make a clutch that is simple and efficient.  Also I'm curious as to what kind of throttle will work on a lawn mower engine?

I have 2 Mobility scooters with similar circuit boards , one has 3 more items connected thru the circuit board where as the other one has those 3 items in the fiberglass body on the tiller . One has the Ignition wires as B+(SW) and B+ as the ignition wires on the bigger circuit board , And the other has B+(SW) but no makings on the circuit board that says B+ ( but it does have B- ) , Both scooters have Curtis Motor Controllers 1203A,But it says in the Curtis 1208C manual that The B+(andB-, if applicable ) wires supply power to the throttle control panel ----such as for the key switch ---- should be bundled with the remaining throttle wires so that all these wires are routed together .i've enclosed some pics and hope some one can help ..Below are some pics describing the 2 Circuit board set ups for the same scooters hope some one can enlighten an old brain (that's slowly fading )Kindest Regards in advance Gordon

Hello all, I am in the process of fixing up an old Can am 250 from the seventies, and wanted to hear some of your reviews of this bike. Most people i know say that it was a beast, if you twisted the throttle the front would come off the ground, other people have said that it was a gutless hunk of junk. Thanks in advance for the feedback!

I built a quad copter. I have done all the calibrations correctly (accel, compass, rc, esc). When I arm the drone, motors and propellers are spinning. But when i give more throttle to try to hover it, it doesnt fly upward steadily. Instead it lifts backwards and falls. Why is this happening? Should I change some PID setting?

I took apart a RC helicopter and stripped everything so its just the motor operated by remote. I plan on attaching a camera to the end if the motor and my goal is to make a pan/rotate base mount thing. However even on the slowest speed (lowest on the throttle) the motor spins way to fast. Is there anyway to control the speed or slow it down? Please Help

I have an old Go Motorboard scooter that the circuit for charging the battery and managing the power to motors is burned out. I have a rudimentary understanding of circuits and how to build them. Can any one recommend a resources to learn how to build a circuit that can charge the batteries, then apply the power to the two motors activated from a throttle. https://scrabblewordfinder.vip/ https://www.applock.ooo/ https://www.7zip.vip/OR where to buy a replacement control board?

I have tried so many different solutions, however all of them require payment, or have file size limits, or take WAY to long to upload because the server decides to throttle my upload speed to the point of Bytes/s. So if anyone has a solution please post. BTW I'm running Linux and the recipient is running winblows.

I have an old thrustmaster top gun fox 2 pro usb joystick that i got from a thrift store. I am using a windows 8.1 pro 64-bit computer and it doesn't detect the stick when i plug it in even after installing thrustmaster's drivers. It is a usb 1.1 stick and i have usb 2.0 and 3.0 ports on the computer. i have taken the stick apart and looked inside to see if there was any damage and there was none as far as I can tell. the drivers for it are only for xp but I would really like to use it on my windows 8 machine so I can play FSX with rudder controls and a few extra buttons. thanks!

Need a hand with an instructable again. It seems mine keep getting "hung up" in the filters. When this happens, they stay in limbo for a good long time, then when they're finally pushed through, they're already buried on page 32 of the "recent" list. I've tried E-Mailing Ed and randofo 2 days ago, but haven't gotten a response. Anyone have any ideas how to deal with this? Or what "filters" are in place so I can avoid having my instructable get throttled, then buried?

I need a boat that will be powered by a two wind mills and I will be using a Min kota troll motor to move it. I will charge the battery with AC day and night and only use it few hours a day. I will use a 100Ah deep cycle marine battery, How much these fishing motors use them in full throttle speed? thanks

Ok, so I am in the hobby of hobby grade rc. I am currently working on modding a ps2 racing wheel and foot pedals to work with a spare 2.4ghz remote I have for my cars. I got the steering wired up fine and it works good. Now for the somewhat tricky part. The foot pedals each have a potentiometer in them. They share ground and power, and have separate signal outputs. I have the right one wired in for the throttle just fine. On my micro car it was easy enough, just switch the throttle reverse switch and push the pedal and it goes in reverse. But most escs wont calibrate to that. How would I go about wiring them together? essentially I want to turn 2 pots into one big pot. So when I push the right one down it sends the signal for forward. When I take off the right one and push the left one down, it signals reverse. I could bring my micro controller into the mix, but I really dont want to for something that seems so simple. Plus it is on a serb right now. Any help?  Thanks

I am looking for help making a ( hopefully simple ) circuit to drive an electronic relief valve. What I have is a push button on a linkage and an electronically actuated valve. I'd like a circuit that, when the button is pressed, will supply a 12v output for roughly 500ms immediately after the button is pressed, which will then turn off. The circuit must then remain off while the button remains held, until it is released and hit again.  Linkage open / Valve closed > Linkage closed / Button pressed > Valve open 500ms > Valve closed / linkage remains closed > Repeat The system is for a turbocharged diesel engine. When the throttle is snapped shut, the boost pressure has nowhere to go. It tries to run back out the compressor housing. This results in a forceful drop in turbine RPM, and in extreme cases even completely stalling the turbine ( and blowing it to pieces ) I intend to vent this pressure back pre-turbo via a 2 inch valve. The short delay upon closing the throttle with this size of valve should be more than adequate. I also intend on wiring a boost pressure switch to disengage this circuit below 15psi. The turbo's anti-surge housing is effective at the lower pressure. Any help with the circuit would be GREATLY appreciated! 

This is a question about an onboard generator for a robot. Obviously id like to achieve homeostasis at around 12.5-13v. When my car battery reaches full capacity (13.8v) the servo releases the throttle. When it falls below 12v it increases idle to full. Im new to the game go easy on me im waiting on my pic programmer to get here let me know if theres an easy way to do it. -Brian

CHi , i need to control one of sticks (throttle) ,i used switch which chose arduino connected to channel or sticks connected to channel ,  i send pwm otput from arduino then  i used smoth circuit to make it true analog then  i connected it to switch but nothing happen at motors ,what is possible type of data voltage that sticks give so i can replace it by arduino voltage , how can i know voltage if  havent datasheets? il