Found out some tricks with the iPod?
Topic by Arbitror | last reply
I'm counting down the days until summer for one thing; wakeboarding.Its something I think I'd be good at, I don't like sports, but i'm sort of athletic. Last year i was just getting the hang of it by the end of the season. This year i'm stronger and bigger, and i'm optimistic that i'll be able to get a lot better this year. Plus my friends are going to learn with me on our boat.I'm positive that i can get the basic two wake jump down, riding switch, doing surface 180's and maybe a 360. Maybe some simple board grabs? No idea.But I wanted something I could practice on and perfect that's more than just that, some kind of aerial trick.Are there any wakeboarders out there that are willing to tell me what to start off learning once i have the basics down?Thanks, I cant say how excited i am for school to end...29 more days....hopefully by the end of summer i'll be acceptably good.as a side note, does anyone know the legal age in FL to drive a ski boat alone? I took my boaters safety test and i already have my learner's permit for driving a car.i know you have to be 14 with a boaters license to drive a PWC, but what about boats?I also know for people under 21 you have to have a boaters license and (i think) a picture ID. But i'm not sure, does anyone know for sure?Thanks
Topic by John Smith | last reply
This fad of "planking" reminds me of a parlor trick I think I read about once. Perhaps from the 1800s. A woman lies with heels on one chair, head on another. Supposedly she has been hypnotized to be very strong. Then a heavy guy sits on her stomach. Is there a name for that? Or a place to find image, or reference?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
I find myself with the task of lighting a camp fire, either dramatically, magically or mysteriously. I know a couple of methods, but the campfire audience have seen them before. Anybody got any novel ideas for lighting a campfire at the sneaky pull of a cord, or throw of a hidden switch? (Yes, I know about wire wool and batteries...)
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
It would be good to have a TIPS/TRICKS category. Sometimes i have some good info somebody else might be able to use. Not enough for a full Instructable. Its a tip/trick that doesn't take a lot of explanation. Example ible. I was forced to add more pictures just to get the ible to publish. I suppose those additional pictures help, but not really needed for this particular tip to be valid. So i suggest a TIP/TRICK section or something along those lines
Topic by WWC | last reply
Hi. I'm a recently retired Magician/Ventriloquist, now focussing on assisting young magicians and beginners on the road to greatness. In my Instructables, I'll be presenting videos on how a trick looks, as well as how the trick works. We'll be concentrating on easy to do magic with simple items, so there'll be no need to purchase expensive magical gear. I welcome your questions, thoughts and suggestions. The aim is to provide as much advice and information as you need. Whether you're beginner or advanced, please feel comfortable to contact me with your problem, good news or just for a chat. I also welcome parents of interested youngsters to contact me for any advice or information that may be required. My sole ambition is to provide help where needed, to progress magicians along their chosen path. Further detail on who I am and what I do can be found at: http://bobedazzler.wixsite.com/learnmagicsecrets
Topic by kidsmagic | last reply
I have a trampoline, and I can do a pretty good amount of tricks. And recently I was looking for a new trick to learn. I found one that I thought was cool, but I don't know the name. What it is, is a 180 aerial (no handed cartwheel). Most of the time when someone is performing it, they are transferring from trampoline to trampoline at an indoor trampoline arena. If you know what trick I am talking about please tell me.
Topic by SBDFFLS | last reply
Hi Guys ^.^ Just wondering what is your best trick? hardest trick? and how you do it? Everyone has different techniques so your way could help others do the trick... :) My best / favourite / hardest trick is a triple K-flip into dark slide shuv-it into 5-0 grind with an impossible out. The K-flip I do like a normal kick flip but pop higher / kick harder, also one has to catch it before it makes the 4th revolution. The shuv-it is tricky as it goes 270degrees and 1/2 a flip, fingers go in the center and just behind and under 1 back wheel. Catch it and land manual on the rail then set up for a back foot impossible. Fingers like a K-flip but the back finger more to the toe side so as to hook/pull the board round. Pop hard and swing the back finger upwards while at the same time moving the front finger out the way, as the board comes back round catch with the front finger and land it. Hope it helps anyone stuck with those tricks. Now I want to hear from you! =D Mountain Island xx
Topic by mountain island
Hi, I just got my Dremel yesterday (multipro 285 for Â£20) it ROCKS but I thought it would be good to have a forum topic for people to post tips/tricks about using their Dremel that they have pivked up/ made up.Mine is this (Its in pdf format) but basically it is a way to use you dremel to quickly "Desolder" pcbs (~5 minutes or less per board!). Wht you do is put on a coarse (~60 grit) sanding drum and go over the back of the pcb. It is very dusty but afterwards the components just need a small pul with some pliars and your done.
Topic by josh92176 | last reply
Wanna know how to disappear and become invisible in an online game such as KILLZONE,SOCOM,....... Racing games.......(the list goes on and on.....) You will need: Ethernet Cable Small Switch Gaming system (online compatible( ps2,ps3,wii,xbox,xbox 360,) ( must be connected with a wire WIFI wont work Online Game All you have to do is cut the orange wire on the inside of the cable and put a switch there. then put the switch in the of position when you want to disappear. NOTICE: This may not work with all games. this only lasts about 7-10 seconds and then you are disconnected from the network. It is just like unplugging it but it is easier. ????: Why is there 8 wires in cat six (maybe its cat five) cable and olny four of them are used ? (waste of coper and bpa releasing plastic) Would have made an instructable but its not worth it. Yes cheating is weak I just like the disappearing part You don't disappear but nobody can see you
Topic by littlechef37
I've just purchased a Indiana Jones Vintage (beat up looking) Felt Fedora, AND ITS FREAKIN AWESOME!!! Anyone know how to do some cool hat tricks? ie, rolling it about, tossing in air to put it on etc... Also, I know here is one (could do with some improvement), but I feel a sudden urge to know how to cheat at cards. Any help?
Topic by KentsOkay | last reply
Yoyo tricks have gotten a lot crazier in the past few years. People are playing with metal yoyos that can sleep for over a minute and can pull off a couple dozen tricks in that time. Some people even go off-string with the yoyo spinning all on its own.A company called Anti-Yo is in the thick of this scene and releases only a couple yoyos a year, but of high quality. The owners, Kiya and Sonny, started out as regular fans of the scene and decided to simply make their own and they've done a great job of it. They're living proof that you can make your hobby into something much more and start to have an effect on people all around the world.The video below shows their new yoyo, the BSP, being played with by one of their team players. Check it out.
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
Would folks who have played with Oogoo please try out the formulation at the link below: Noogoo and let me know if a) it works for you too; b) whether or not there are any differences/advantages over the initial Oogoo formula; and 3) you can see any applications for it different from standard Oogoo? It's not a published Instructable yet, I want to make sure there's something here worth using before I make a permanent post of it. Thanks, G
Topic by gtoal | last reply
I can do a hand 180 and 90 and a snow board slide,But these tricks are kind of boring now.SO I NEED NEW TRICKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Question | last reply
The first 10 people who enter the Electronics Tips & Tricks Contest this week (6/25/12) and have their project featured will get a free 3D print. All prints are going to be made on our Objet printers and must fit within the bounds of 3" x 3" x 3". If you don't have files that you want printed, you can receive a 3D-printed Instructables Robot figurine instead. Some featuring guidelines for Photo Instructables are as follows: Has an original, unique and/or compelling idea Title fits and explains the project All photos are original Contains at least 3 photos, and at least 1 image of the final project All photos are in focus with correct lighting At least 2 paragraphs describing project inspiration, process, outcome, challenges, etc Reference links and files if required
Topic by randofo | last reply
Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)
Topic by Downunder35m
Right here - https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-do-the-Elastico-SoccerFootball-Dribble-Te/ Enjoy!! practice - practice - practice!
Topic by MGO_Count | last reply
I am not a complete beginner ive been longoarding for a couple of months now so i know the basics.heres the stock photo:
Question by Zaphod Beeblebrox | last reply
I've been trying to do buddha's revenge yoyo trick.. but i have some hard part,like moonsault for the beginning..
Well after a request for an 'ible on basic bike tricks as a follow up to this cycling 'ible I'm wondering what tricks people would like to know about so far the list is:Pulling a wheelieStoppies/endos (stopping or moving with the back wheel in the air)BunnyhoppingSliding in a reasonable manner (as in tailslides)I'd like any other suggestions, the 'ible will include all requested tricks that I can do, heck got any for me to learn? Just throw them at me. If I can I'll add stalls and stuff to this but considering where I live finding a good place to do so is hard (it's still a building site for the most part...)EDIT: The instructable is now up
Topic by killerjackalope | last reply
I want my own effect that is practical for use with street magic/ walk around magic. give me idea's and a promise ill try to create them and incorporate them into my routine, most practical has best answer.
Question by voemaster | last reply
This is a pretty easy trick. I will tell you that it does not look cool, but it does come in handy. See, stop and go is a trick where the yo-yo literally stops, then starts sleeping again. This comes in handy if you are in a tournament and your yo-yo's sleep is about to die. First, get into a brain twister mount:Throw a strong sleeper. Point the index finger of your non-throw hand out and bring the yo-yo up. Now move your throw hand under the yo-yo and up again on the other side.*For more detailed instructions, go ahead and surf the web*The trick itselfOkay, now that you are in the brain twister mount, bring your throw hand up and under your non-throw hand so it forms a sort of cup. Now move your hands up a bit and the yo-yo will come up to your hand. Be prepared to catch it. This is the "stop" part of the trick "stop and go". Now for the "go" part. Bring your throw hand under the yoyo and twist it so your fingers point away from you. Now pull your throw hand down and leave your non-throw hand where it is. The yo-yo should start spinning again and you are ready for more tricks.
Topic by PineapplebobTheGreat | last reply
Boing-E-Boing is a cool trick for the yo-yo. It is fairly simple, but still looks very amazing. First, go into a split bottom mount. To do this, throw a sleeper and go into a brain twister mount, but instead of bringing you throw hand under the yo-yo, swing the yo-yo over your index finger of your throw hand and it lands on the string. That is a split bottom mount. After the split bottom mount is in place, pass the yo-yo forward once by switching your arms. Now the yo-yo is in the middle of two strings. Move your index finger at the top up and down. Watch as the yo-yo bounces between the two strings because it has nowhere else to go!
Topic by PineapplebobTheGreat | last reply
The situation: I'm prototyping a circuit with a 14-legged logic IC on a breadboard. What happens: The picture tells it all: The breadboard looks like a Spaghetti Incident. What a mess. It's hard to find the right holes between all the leads sticking out, and avoiding shorts is even trickier. And of course: The circuit doesn't work. Not suprising considering the chaos. No biggie, but debugging a circuit on such a breadboard is a real pain! So please: Share your tips / tricks / magic to keep a proper and readable circuit on a breadboard. Thanks! Ynze PS: The circuit is not very complex btw. It's a solar engine, with one logic IC (NAND gates) and about 15 other parts. The circuit does contain feedback loops, which make it a bit trickier...
Topic by ynze | last reply
I discovered a simple system that makes it easier to draw a human figure freehand with well proportioned and positioned body parts. This video will show you how to do it (very easy). Basically you draw 3 overlapping stars and they show you the proportions. To make the figure look taller / skinnier move the 2 main stars a little further apart. Or if the person looks too narrow move the 2 main stars closer together. Towards the end of the video I show a couple other pieces of artwork that I could show you how to make if you want.
Topic by Jaycub | last reply
Now here's my idea, you know those LED Solar lights? Well morons in my area also like too take them and smash'em. Any ideas too make them think twice? Such as electric shock?
Question by Stevie89 | last reply
Only a few years ago your only option to repair certain plastics, glass or even a broken crystal was epoxy based resin or the good old superglue.You might have already tried one of the 5-seconds-repair pens or tried your own UV curing nail polish art at home.For the later you might be lucky as the resins used here are optimised for the purpose and lights you get with them.Sadly even the best nail polish is no substitude for a glue as the material properties need to be different.One of the most common complaints when it comes to using some UV glue, like Kafuter or similar is that it never comes with instructions.Sould be straight forward but it is not free of problems.For example almost all commercail UV curing glues that you can buy require quite stirct procedures and for the light the right wavelenth(s).Resins and coatings can be even more painful here as they might also require you to stick to the correct temperature.Let's start with one thing you might have encountered already...The glue is definately cured and rock hard but the surface tacky and smeary.Quite annoying if you want to fix a piece of jewellery and can't prevent it from collecting dirt and dust...The next thing you might have encountered is that despite having transparent materials it seems to be impossible to cure the clue.Both problems come down to wavelenght and exposure.UV curing glue is prevented from curing in the presence of oxygen - a factor utilised for example in resin based 3D printers.Uncovered glue is exposed to the oxygen in the air and won't cure easy.The glue or resin below this layer however with fully cure with ease in the absence of oxygen.For the second problem consider that not all materials that you can see through will let UVC light pass through ;)Bonding strenght is another complaint I hear a lot...Be aware that certain things just are no good for UV curing glues or resins.Take the molds you get for that purpose: on the material the glue won't bond!Teflon is another prime candidate here.But in a lot of cases it comes down to surface preparation.Don't be afriad to sand the surface!Not only will the surface area increase but the scratch marks will be invisible once filled anyways.Use sandpaper on your fingernails, then go over with clear nail polish -mirror finish ;)With curing often a problem consider to fully cover the glue.A bit of clear sticky tape, food wrapping foil....If that is not an option then eliminate the oxygen.You can use a container filled with inert (for the glue) gas like CO2 or just place a burning candle in it until it goes out....Either way the amount of oxygen should then be low enough to cure the surface of your glue.Not always is any of the above an option.Then you can still try more power and a lover wavelength.Mercury based lamps for example provide a very broad and powerful light that in most cases will cure within seconds.For a proper surface cure you need a wavelength of 265nm or lower.LED's offering this exist but at prices well out of range for the hobby user.A mercury lamp under high pressure is nothing for short term use and the limited lifespan does not always justify the costs of buying them.Like with most things in life certain inventions can have a dual purpose.Quality germicidal lamp systems for examples often state to go as low or even lower than 265nm.And they come at a fraction of the cost you have with a broadband mercury lamp.Even cheaper is the fre weather forecast.If the sun is siad to be strong enough so you need protection than even the worst glue will fully cure in seconds outside in the sun - tackfree!Don't be fooled and protect yourself!!These tiny LED lamps for your glue stick, the curing thingies for your nailpolish and everything else using UV light comes with warnings.For very good reasons!It might be hidden in the fineprint but you can not really see UV light.The blueish-purple glow you see is on the high end of what comes out and by that in the visible range of your eye.Just because a LED only gives a faint glow you see does not mean the UV light wouldn blind you if you could see it!Even worse for fluoroscent lamps or open cruning systems like those for your nailpolish.Reflected UV light is still UV light and you can still NOT see it!Stories of people getting sunburnt from germicidal lamps in a butcher shop or other people going blind from checking money as their living have a true base...In most cases lamps used well past their lifespan or simply the wrong type of lamp but still: the damage came from UVC light...If you just love creating your own artwork or jewellery with UV curing resins and glues than protect yourself.Proper sunglasses with a stated UV protection for example or just black nitrile gloves for your hands...
Topic by Downunder35m