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4 pins with unknown polarity, i want to charge a battery with it?

So I have 4 pins with unknown polarity, and a rechargeable battery with 2 pin with known polarity, and i got a multimeter. How am i going to solve this? I randomly did something and it worked, but it did not charge, but it could use the battery, but now its empty it cant anymore. layout used is --++ please help :)

Question by lhu    |  last reply



Why doesn't this circuit work with a newer relay?

I have a riddle I hope someone here can answer. I have a circuit that is supposed to flash a light and sound a buzzer at the same time. I have two versions of the circuit. One is from probably the 70's or 80's and one is current. they are wired as shown in the picture. The one built in the 80's flashes the light and rings the buzzer as designed. Unfortunately I don't have the 80's component with me so I cannot read the resistance of the coil. I don't have the part number of the relay. So a quick rundown of what I know about the two. Original Circuit                                                        Relay: part number unkown                                 Coil resistance: unknown                                     Capacitor: 12v 1000uF                                          Flashes once every second or so.                                                                                                      Current Design Relay: R40-11D2-12 Coil resistance: 960 ohms according to printing on relay Capacitor: 16v 1000uF Flashes once when power is applied the relay just buzzes light glows dimly. however if the light is removed and the wire goes straight to ground the circuit operates and the relay opens and closes I realize there isn't much here to go on. So a little more about the story. As I said I don't have the original relay part number and when I did, I searched for a datasheet. Every search came up with the replacement part number (R40-11D2-12). I cannot seem to locally source a 12v 1000uF capacitor that is of the same physical dimensions. A 16v 1000uF is about the same size as the original. My thought is that there are only two culprits possible here. The newer relay coil has too much or too little resistance therefore not allowing the cap to charge. Or the cap cannot properly charge because of it's specs. Or both. Being that the circuit operates properly with the light removed and wired straight to ground it makes me suspect there is too much resistance somewhere. I know there are other ways of doing this however the results are not exactly the same. Is there a way to do this as is with current parts?

Question by MDheliMech    |  last reply


Beware of the new Email scam!

Recently I noticed that one my Emails accounts got some unwanted attention.Both in the standard folder as well as in the provided spam folder I started to collect Emails.And I don't always mean from senders I knew or webistes I am registered with.My usual approach is to just delete what comes from unkown senders or has a suspicious feeling to it.So no winner got it all crap, no offers, no invitations...A few however seemd to originate from some well known "things on the web" - and some of them I am registered with and get ads, offers and such.Sadly that resulted in some Emails being looked at and then discarded anyways.I kept deleting those unwanted mails without opening them for a few days.They they magically changed ;)Websites I used and especially those that require login details appeared as senders.Nothing with any vital info in the preview but also no real activity from my end on those websites.Then I made some impulsive buys on Ebay :(On top of the usual Emails I also got some "reminders" and "seller offers" added.Never happened before and certainly not activated in my Ebay account as feature.And unlike real Emails from Ebay there was my account name missing.Instead a conviently placed and highlighted shortcut button to "You account login" was provided.Ok, fake, forwared to Ebays spam team and quickly confirmed as spam.Moved and only hours later I got more Emails with similar tempting offers as buttons to confirm something that requires me to login.And now from websites or services I actually logged in to this day.The wise donkey said: You have something on your computer that shouldn't be there!Reboot from a CD to have the hard drives checked for malware - negative captain :(Ok then must be something within Windows, time to use a system restor point for a few weeks ago.Again nope...So I used a different browser and quite few websites and services that require my login details.No new Emails... with those websites.Kept using this brwoser for a few days and only stuff I already had cam again a few times but overall far less spam mails.Used the standard browser for a few hours with some login requirements and within a day I had corresponding Emails for a few of them.Found several bad tracking cookies in my browser.Bad in terms of redirecting all visited IP addresses to some addresses I can't even find.Deleted all cookies as well as the browser history.Reboot...A closer look at those suspicious Emails revealed that some include a thing similar to the old single pixel tracker.If you open them and not otherwise prevented it will result in some webservice knowing you actually opened the Email.Together of course with your Email address.The headers were good fakes too so the real sender is properly disguised.Those bottons and links mostly went to websites my browser protection already knows and prevents.Some however did not.In a sandboxed browser I was able to get onto some more or less convincing copies or the originals websites login page.The addressbar always started with originals name but then had a lot of cryptic stuff added to it.Sandbox blocked all what would otherwise make it throughcame through but the browser was rendered useless in the sandbox after I "logged in".Did another check and confirmed that all links buttons and such on that "infected" website also cause the same browser crash.Only difference was that only WITH something typed into the login field the browser tried to establish a new outgoing connection before getting dusted.Conclusions:The malicious Email provides the IP address used.Most if not all links within such an Email end on malicious websites.Some, especially at the beginning don't!!Instead the links go to websites that use cookies and other stuff normal protection mechanisms overlook.Somewhere between opening the link and closing it or the browser a change is made.Either you get a popup windows looking like some advertisement or when you start your browser the next time you see some website added that was not there before.The spammer now know you actually bothered enough to follow at least of the faked links provided in the Emails.The added bonus tracker provides ongoing supplies of websites you visit.A lot still use things in the address bar that identify them as a login page, even if it just starting with HTTPS.Popular websites and services get faked copies on servers in the dark web or at least outside normal DNS services.Now the spammer adds more and more Emails faking things you login to when using a browser for it.Until now nothing too bad or irriversible happend.But get fooled and actually click on a link in one of the new spam mails and it might be over.In the "best outcome" you would be locked out of your browser and have to delete it in safe mode or attempt a manual removal of the hijacker.A bit worse is if your protection started to fail and instead of the hijacke you end up with something manipulating your system.Really bad would be if you end on faked login website, and safety fails until you are locked out from your own system.Don't know what Email you might get after that and what demands to fix your system...However it gets worse: Like the one before but when enter your credentials and hit the login button the website jumps to some random Youtube clip or Goole search page.In case you wonder: You just gave the spammer your personal login details for said webiste or service....Most "deadly" would be if you end on more than just one like that.Every single one give the spammer a new login that you might pay for or that includes even more senstive data.Having to format and re-install all sudden is a thing of far too late then.I do not know if there was an Email I clicked on first, an infected advertisement or even some leaked Email addresses including my own on the internet for sale.All I know for sure is that those tracking options in the malicious Emails correspond to tracking stuff in the browser.No virus, no real malware until you click on the wrong stuff.Anything to prevent this from happening?Whatever you do: Do not use anything that requires the internet! - Just kidding!! Relax...1: Never click on anything inside mails from sources you don't fully trust! If in doubt copy and paste the link into an editor and check if it identical to the real address! Usually you would find some random stuff after the dot of the address name where you would other wise see .COM or .COM.AU.2. In case you ended on some spam or fake looking website anyways you should delete the cookies and browser history. The history might not be required though.3. Best would of course be to only allow known and trusted cookies or to not use any that survive a restart of the browser.4. Very important! If you start to get those Email very shortly after using it to create an account for something on the web then please provide the website you registered at with that Email address !!!5. If you get faked Emails for things you are actually registered with then please consider to imform the admins or support of this website about it. You might not have clicked on it but some user there might if nobody places a warning ;)What if all went to a total failure?I assume why you made that backup of all vital data and kept it updated?Also how install your operating system, in my case Windows, again.A hijack is easy, a fully infected or even encrypted system not.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Can you make this game?

I am working on a game last 7 years. I need coders for making this game. I will just give you game idea, you will do the job and you will gain the money. I am played all of games and watching game videos everyday. So game designing is my job, you just read my idea. This game will be a turn based strategy, MMO, open world, crafting, starving, pvp, pve, dungeon blah blah game. I cant make this game as a board game bcause it is too complex and requires calculations. So it cant be funny as a board game bcause causes headache. This game has an unique combat system and strange classes and races like turtle, rhino, ninja, runner, mantis...... So you can play as everything. Some characters can fly, swim, run; depends on what you are playing as. Every turn everybody moves at same time. After that everybody attacks to each other at same time. And cycle repeats. You can order to your character "be that much near to target" and it always tries to be that much near to enemy. Server does this calculation automaticly. Lets see what i designed: CYBER Cyber is a robot looks like human but its made all of steel. So its metalic gray colored. Its dark. It is a serial killer. Hates everything, even itself. He is male but he have no gender. His strongest attack is COMET CANNON. Causes a explosion which will kill the target and damage the who arounds it. Cyber can kill its friends while shooting stuff. ZERO POINT is stronger than Comet Cannon and if you shoot it you will lose all of your HP so this spell consumes HP; its deals same damage to everyone in explosion and this spell always deals damage but enemies will divide damage with their FLE so enemies with high FLE will take less damage. After Zero Point; damaged tiles will damage to who stay on them with heat. GATLING GUN spell deals damage with bullets. Damage will be increased every turn but its MP cost will also increase. You cant move while shooting with Gatling Gun. Also nothing will miss you while you using this spell but %100 of your FLE will become DMG. And your movespeed will become your HIT but only half of it. Also while using this noisy spells your hiding will decrease so enemies can see you from even more faraway. Cyber uses bullets and rockets while using its spells and it gets out of ammo. Ammo will refill 10 turns after an empty turn(nothing attacks you and you attack to nothing). Gatling Gun deals area damage so you can shoot many targets at same time. PAILDRAMON GUNS: If you still didnt mention all of Cyber spells are stolen from digimon and gunslinger of Ragnarök online so this skill is same. So he takes rifles from inside of his calfs and shoot the enemy. You cant use this spell if you moved this turn so you cant move. You can shoot the target until miss it so this spell can be used again after you used it if it hits target. It has more hit than Gatling Gun and it can only shoot 1 target. TWIN STINGERS: you shoot 2 stingers from your nipples. Its a divided attack but stingers must be locked to same target. If they miss target, next turn they will try to hit it again. Enemy can attack to stingers for destroying them but stingers have 0 HP and %500 of your FLE also you must destroy stingers 1 by 1. ROCKET RAIN: using this spell causes you to use all of your ammo. You release all of your firepower as mini stingers. They will randomly attack every enemy they can reach. Missed stingers will hit each other and get destroyed. This attack have high HIT but low DMG. ROCKET STRIKE: you shoot a giant rocket from your arm. Its most basic attack of cyber but it costs too much MP and ammo and have low HIT, but still great for dealing damage to 1 enemy and killing full damage build noobies. PUNCH CANNON: cyber can longer his arms for punching enemy. Really stupid but requires no ammo; also it is ranged. JET BLOW: cyber flies really fast by using his jets and punches enemy from its belly. Bcause of he is so badass, blood comes out from enemy’s body. This spell gets used for reaching enemy and starts melee fight. PUNCH: you punch the enemy. If you dont miss, you can punch next turn. You can only punch three times in a combo, so after that Punch goes cooldown. Bcause of his Punches reducing targets FLE for next turn and dealing massive damage and also dealing damage to targets MP; its Punches consumes too much MP. If you can Punch enemy 3 times after each other; 3rd punch will make enemy unable to move. ENERGY SHIELD: the robot creates an energy field like every mechs doing in Sci-Fi movies so why not? When enemy attacks you it will hit your MP with multiplied by %150 damage. If you turn off your shield you will lose all of your MP and MPR, HPR for next turn and you will gain +%50 HIT, +%50 FLE. The turn after that turn your MP will comeback so you can use your spells again. Also shield will turn off when you reach 0 MP. Than next 2 turns you cant turn on your shield. LIGHTNING JOLT: if you use this spell after turning off Energy Shield you will deal +%50 more damage. And your unexist mana can be consumed for this skill. You shoot lightning which one deals damage to all enemies. If there is less enemy it will deal more damage. This lightning will firstly damage enemy’s FLE for next turn and if it can make FLE 0, than will deal damage HP. LIGHTNING CHARGE: It can only destroy both players MP when it used turn after when Energy Shield turned off manually. You rush to the enemy and punch it. Punch throws enemy to back based on your base speed. If you use same spell after shield off, it will not push enemy but will destroy enemy’s MP by destroying your MP. When one of you reach 0 MP, that event ends. This spell also will deal damage. METAL FORM: you already made of metal but you still want to go in metal form. Metal form is a buff will affect you for next many turns. That buff increases your AMR. Its just that. Increases your AMR for many turns. WASTE: when you die, your remaining ammo will deal damage to enemies in range. All of enemies will take random amount of damage but total damage is always same. BURST SHOOT: you shoot the target with a flamming bullet. Its just that. ARM CANNON: You shoot something unkown but also this attack always missing. When it hits, it deals too much damage for its mana cost. It may hit another random target. Sometimes it causes an explosion and hits many targets. RAINBOW CANNON: you shoot your strongest cannon three times for shooting targets. If three of them hit, it is better than Comet but mostly 1 of them miss. Base values of Cyber(elements will be added when game ends): 3 DMG 1 HIT 0,5 FLE 3 AMR 15 HP 0,5 HPR 10 MP 1 MPR What elements Cyber use? Melee(MLE), Ranged(RNG), MAGnetic, EXPlosive, BuLLet, PLAsma BLoW, WAVe, WiND, HOT, FiRE Sense’s of Cyber: %100 SEE %200 hEAR %200 HEaT %200 MAGnetic Cyber cant fly or swim, bcause of that he has 4 times more attack range than his movement. Also machines are really great ranged units. But Cyber have no ability for escaping. Cyber’s hiding values are: %50 SML %50 MAG %50 HET %0 EAR %150 SEE %200 IDE %200 SUL Cyber is good for killing low FLE and high AMR and low speed units. Cyber is strong against high DMG units.

Topic by yuno44907    |  last reply


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply