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Upload Problems

Hi Everybody, I'm getting the following message all the time when trying to upload. There's been a problem updating your Instructable parsererror SyntaxError: JSON.parse: bad control character in string literal Thanks for your help. Bob Walsh

Topic by bobwalshplumerias    |  last reply


Issue with Instructable count

Windows Vista Internet Explorer 9 I uploaded a new instructable today and there seems to be a issue with it not being viewed and my instructable count. Take a look at the two screen caps. When I go to my Instructable's tab, 10 instructable are listed which is correct. I have marked everything in question with red boxes. On my new instructable there is no view count. When I go to "view profile" it only says I have 9 instructable, but all 10 are listed. The I click on "view all 9 instructables" and all 10 are listed. Help!   

Topic by WildmanProject    |  last reply


Photo upload stalls

This has been going on for a while now, back to when the new photo uploader was still being called a beta feature.  Sometimes when a photo is being uploaded, it stalls at 100%.  It stays there indefinitely (I've let it sit for up to 5 hours), preventing all the other photos in the queue from uploading.  This is very annoying when you're trying to upload 100 photos and leave to do something else, only to find it's been stuck at photo #5 (for example) the whole time you were away!  The only way to make things proceed is to cancel the photo that has stalled, then re-upload it once the others have finished. I typically upload larger files in the 2-3MB range.  I'm using Firefox (latest version) in Mac OS X.  Last time I tried, it did the same thing in Safari. Please take a look at this issue; having to "babysit" my uploads is one of the worst parts of writing an Instructable because it's such a waste of time!

Topic by jeff-o    |  last reply


Images not getting uploaded - SOLVED

I am unable to add images to instructable. Whenever I click the upload button it gets disabled and nothing happens. I can upload images via app, but them moving images around from computer to phones is a pain, also editing on phone takes too long. Here too getting file uploads disabled due to server maintenance for Flickr import.

Topic by Mtaram    |  last reply


Cannot upload project from APP

Cannot "save to instructables.com" or publish my instructable from the iOS app. Anyone else have this issue? Would love to be able to upload this especially after spending so long getting it together. 

Topic by rciggan    |  last reply


peculiar issue with arduino clones; thoughts?

So a little while back, I bought about 10 arduino nano clones. I'd used the nanos before, and really like the form factor, so i got some off of ebay. they worked great, and you'd know no difference in performance compared to other boards, these new ones seemed to boot faster even. unlike most, the ones i got dont use an FTDI chip, but rather a chip labeled as "CH340G". these boards were working perfectly until i was trying to test some code that was very close to the maximum size you can fit in an atmega328. it was 30,000 bytes, and mostly because of the included libraries. when i hit upload, it compiled fine, but once it got to the "uploading" phase nothing happened on the arduino board and after a while it threw an error claiming a response of 0x00, if memory serves. it didnt seem like the atmega was resetting, so i probed it with my oscilloscope, but it certainly was resetting. i thought maybe the capacitor on the reset line had issues, so i replaced it to no avail. everything seems fine in windows and i can still talk to the program previously on the chip via the serial terminal. the only way i can seem to upload code now is via the icsp header. so im wondering if anyone knows what is going on here, or how i can fix the issue?

Question by zack247    |  last reply


Are you having problems uploading images?

You may have run into trouble uploading images to forum topics, or directly to your image library. The old image uploader is being phased out, and will soon be replaced by the uploader that is part of the new editor. The recommended temporary work-around is to start an instructable that you do not publish, but any images you upload to it will become available in your image library. You may find it easier to keep that draft instructable "on file" until the uploading issue is sorted, just be careful not to accidentally publish it! 

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


New editor: saving issue; images problem

I'm working on and instructable using the new editor, but it doesn't stop saving, well, it doesn't stop saying it's saving. When I go to a new tab and open the same draft, my changes aren't saved yet. When I work on it on the old editor, I can't add a new step.  I'm going to restart safari in a few minutes, but I still wanted to post this under bugs. I'm using a Mac OS X 10.8. Oh, and another problem, I can't upload images to forum topics or comments, I have to open a draft, save the images to my library, come back to the forum topic/comment before I can post it. But, since my drafts aren't really working at the moment, I can't add a screenshot.

Topic by emilyvanleemput    |  last reply


instructables and a few issues with Mac, iPhone and iPad

I have had numerous issues related to writing step by step instructables on my iPad as well as iPhone and my mac....this site needs its own app for iPad and iPhone....I use my mac at home with similar problems...here are a few of the issues: While writing in the text box, when you go to delete a few letters,the cursor jumps to either the beginning of the paragraph or goes directly to the end... there is no internal spell check within the contents of the text box toolbar area or any where else that I can find the a few times I wrote an entire step and went to save it and then a error window appeared and I lost all of the data in that step when uploading images, sometimes you get a progress bar and other times not...never sure if its uploading or not for the first minute or so THIS IS WHAT I HAVE RECEIVED IN THE PAST TWO DAYS WHEN TRYING TO DOWNLOAD THE THANKSGIVING CHALLENGE..MIND YOU I JUST INSTALLED THE FIREFOX BROWSER BECAUSE SAFARI HAD SIMILAR ISSUES... Firefox can't find the file at https://www.instructables.com/pdf/Thanksgiving-Challenge/Thanksgiving-Challenge.pdf?includeHeader=on&includeTableOfContents;=on&includeImages;=on&imageSize;=MEDIUM&includeRelated;=on&includeComments;=on&includeImages;=off&includeComments;=off&includeTableOfContents;=off&includeRelated;=off&includeHeader;=off.

Topic by tinpie    |  last reply


Having a peculiar issue with the max6675 and grounds?

So first off, this is an application for use in a car. I have ensured that all of my grounds are good, and the power is clean, so I know these are not the issue, at least not on the car side of things. I am trying to get an electric fan controlled by an atmega328 (through a relay), which I have successfully achieved  on bench tests using an alternative heat source. It works reliably until I apply the circuit in the car. When I install it in the car with my thermocouple on the radiator pipe for the temperature reference I get all sorts of temperatures that are not the correct one. Its either very high, or very low. I have tried multiple thermocouples (of similar style) with no changes. If my thermocouple is not making contact with any grounded portion of the car (for example, the engine) it reads fine, so I know that my issue lies somewhere in there. An easy solution would be to simply mount the sensor in a coupler in the radiator hose (thus isolating it as best as I can) but I would rather fix the issue than apply a bandaid. I've tried searching for other people having a similar issue but haven't had any luck. One peculiar thing to note is that if I have the ground disconnected, and the thermocouple touching a ground, the system receives power, so I am assuming that the junction makes contact with the outer case of the thermocouple. My circuit is nothing too elaborate (I can upload a schematic if need be); I have a DC/DC adjustable converter to get 5v for the micro and 6675 power, which does not have an isolated ground, an atmega328, an OLED display, some tact buttons, and a max6675 development board. There are other passives as well but those should be minor. Does anyone have any idea what may be going on with this? I'm stumped. I should be able to provide any info you may need.  PS: this is the development board and thermocouple that I am using: http://m.ebay.ca/itm/New-MAX6675-Module-K-Type-Thermocouple-Thermocouple-Sensor-For-Arduino-Hot-/151324177617?nav=SEARCH 

Question by zack247    |  last reply


Make it Real Contest issue with posting to 123D Gallery

I cannot figure out how to link to my design that I posted on 123D Gallery? It took me hours to figure out how to post on there in the first place and I am not even sure that it is publically accessible on their site but since it is part of the contest and they are the "mother ship" can someone post instructions on how to upload files to the 123D Gallery and how to get the link to post back on Instructables?

Topic by vanweb    |  last reply


"Bug" - Issue with image importer converting .PNG files to .JPEG

Update: posting this topic further illustrated that something weird is happening with how Instructables handles images. The image as shown above shows both left and right sides with the text blurry. If you click on the image, the left stays blurry (as it should because it was) whereas the text on the right shows clear and sharp. I give up on the root of the problem, but it's frustrating how the image quality gets messed up.I put "bug" in quotations since you never know if it's a bug, unintended side effect, technical limitation or external problem. I'll let Instructables be the judge. Regardless, I thought it might be worth bringing attention to since I'm probably not the only one to have experienced it.While I use RAW images converted to JPEGs in Lightroom for my main project images, which tend to look beautifully, I normally use Canva to design my title images. Mainly due to being able to add text, shapes or any other elements in layers. Canva exports by default in .PNG format, which is probably the most popular image format after .JPG due to its support of transparencies and lossless compression. For that reason it's normally preferred for header images and graphics. I tend to use a ratio of between 4:3 and 16:9 to make things easier for the file uploader, as well as a longest edge of 1024px since that looks like it's what Instructables wants so it won't be resized. Despite trying to make things easy for the uploader, my title images have always been the blurriest, noticeably more so than the rest of the images or the image uploaded. Today I finally did some tests and found out that on import of .PNG files, the uploader noticeably deteriorates the quality of the image when converting it to JPEG, even if it isn't resizing it. A picture is attached as evidence. It seems to particularly affect portions which are highly saturated or text, greatly desharpening it. It makes a good image look like it's been carelessly edited. For the image to maintain its quality, I have to take the original .PNG and convert to .JPEG on my own (Photoshop), and then upload the .JPEG to Instructables (instead of the .PNG). As a user, what I'd optimally like to see done is: Fix the importer to properly support .PNG images without deteriorating the images. It is way too popular a format to not accept. I do realize it might be a Canva color space or other such issue, but it probably wouldn't be limited to that program anyway. Nonetheless, if this isn't possible, I'd be happy for the system to simply not accept .PNG and to throw-out an error message telling me to convert the images on my own and only upload .JPG. That would at least avoid image quality being inadvertently affected. Make available an up to date FAQ page where all information regarding images is available: what formats are natively accepted, what is the optimal ratio for images, what is the optimal resolution for images, to what sizes an image is resized on import, or any other relevant technical image details. I've researched this multiple times in the past and there are a lot of people with the same questions in the forum. Especially when it comes to sizes and ratios (cut off images, etc). Most of the information is from years ago (ex. 2010) and cannot be trusted to be up to date. Up to now I've uploaded plenty of 18 megapixel images when it is unnecessary given that the largest size shown, I think, is "LARGE" size at 1024px (I believe). A place to educate ourselves objectively on this particular site's preferences would be appreciated.Anyway, thought I'd comment this since it was a relief to finally find out the origin of the problem.

Topic by MillennialDIYer    |  last reply


Arduino (uno r3) not in sync, help? Answered

So I'm pretty new to arduino. Got myself an Uno rev3, and all was well for a couple of weeks. Now however, whenever I try to upload a sketch I get an error message telling me this: avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 Googling this has not solved anything. I don't think there's anything messed up with the IDE, as I get this in both arduino 1.0.1 and 1.0.2, as well as Visual micro. I tried everything I could think of. Resetting the board did nothing, neither did re-installing drivers or rebooting. The serial bounce test showed no errors, and the Rx LED blinks when I try to upload.  (If you are unaware, the bounce test means connecting Rx to Tx and opening a serial monitor. Everything you send should then be bounced back.) I'm currently thinking bootloader issues, since resetting the board does not make the pin 13 LED blink.  So, does anyone know what to do here? ------------------------------------------------------ UPDATE: I am an idiot. This whole time, I had the atmega328 plugged in backwards. It works now.

Question by Tinker_Tom    |  last reply


I can't write a new Instructable

*I don't know if this is a function of the forums on this site, but I can't enter hard returns into this post; so, I'm sorry if it's difficult to read! PROBLEM: I can't write a new Instructable.  SYMPTOM 1: After adding text and a title; when I click "Add Step" everything I've typed disappears and a "blank" Instructable is added to the "Drafts" folder.  (As a result, I currently have 52 EMPTY Instructables in my "Drafts" when I'm only working on 1 project.)  SYMPTOM 2: When I try to add images from my library to a step and click on "add image," the image is not added, any text I have typed so far is deleted, and a new blank Instructable appears in my "Drafts" folder. SYMPTOM 3: When I click on "Preview" to see if the text I've entered is even taking hold, all text is deleted.  OS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit. BROWSER: Internet Explorer 10.0.9.  *Since the symptoms of my problem are just everything disappearing, there is really no screenshot I can provide that would help further explain the issue. *The Instructable (itself) I'm trying to write is a part of a wedding gift and I only have a few days left.  Any help that can be rendered would be well appreciated!  Thank you!  -etymike

Topic by etymike    |  last reply


Arduino WX code help for Weather Underground data upload?

Hello- I tried to recreate this WiFi Weather Station project using most of the same parts except for the Arduino WiFi101 shield.  I am having a problem with the data only being uploaded once.  The code tries again, but it seems the connection to WU fails after the first time.  I have to hit the reset button on the board or reload the code for it to upload again.   I am wondering if the connection to WU needs to be severed after each upload and the entire process needs to repeat after that.  I have no idea...  Someone else posted a comment in the comment section for the project with same issue and the author has never responded to the upload issue.  Any help would be great.   Here is the code: int DEBUG = 1; #include #include #include #include #include     //UV sensor #include #include #define DHTPIN 2 #define DHTTYPE DHT22 //DHT22 //Constants char ssid[] = "******";     //  your network SSID (name) char pass[] = "******";    // your network password int status = WL_IDLE_STATUS;     // the Wifi radio's status char SERVER[] = "rtupdate.wunderground.com";           // Realtime update server - RapidFire char WEBPAGE [] = "GET /weatherstation/updateweatherstation.php?"; char ID [] = "**********"; char PASSWORD [] = "*********"; DHT dht(DHTPIN, DHTTYPE); Adafruit_SI1145 uv = Adafruit_SI1145(); // UV Sensor Adafruit_BMP085 bmp; WiFiClient client; void setup(void) {   Serial.begin(9600);   Wire.begin();   dht.begin();   uv.begin();   bmp.begin();   Serial.println("Attempting to connect to WPA network...");   status = WiFi.begin(ssid, pass);    //if you're not connected, stop here:   if ( status != WL_CONNECTED) {     Serial.println("Couldn't get a wifi connection");     while(true);   }    //if you are connected, print out info about the connection:   else {     Serial.println("WiFi is a Go!!");     } } void loop(void){    //Get sensor data   float tempc = bmp.readTemperature();    float tempf =  (tempc * 9.0)/ 5.0 + 32.0;    float humidity = dht.readHumidity();   float baromin = bmp.readPressure()* 0.0002953;   float dewptf = (dewPoint(tempf, dht.readHumidity()));    float UVindex = uv.readUV();         UVindex /= 100.0;                               if (DEBUG) {     Serial.println("+++++++++++++++++++++++++");   Serial.print("temp= ");   Serial.print(tempf);   Serial.println(" *F");   Serial.print("baro= ");   Serial.print(baromin);   Serial.println(" inHg");   Serial.print("dew point= ");   Serial.println(dewptf);   Serial.print("humidity= ");   Serial.println(humidity);   Serial.print("UV: ");    Serial.println(UVindex);   }//End debug loop //Send data to Weather Underground if (client.connect(SERVER, 80)) {     if (DEBUG) {          Serial.println("Sending DATA ");       }     // Ship it!     client.print(WEBPAGE);     client.print("ID=");     client.print(ID);     client.print("&PASSWORD;=");     client.print(PASSWORD);     client.print("&dateutc;=");     client.print("now");     client.print("&tempf;=");     client.print(tempf);     client.print("&baromin;=");     client.print(baromin);     client.print("&dewptf;=");     client.print(dewptf);     client.print("&humidity;=");     client.print(humidity);     client.print("&uv;=");     client.print(UVindex);     client.print("&softwaretype;=Arduino%20UNO%20version1&action;=updateraw&realtime;=1&rtfreq;=2.5");//Rapid Fire     client.println();         if (DEBUG) {         Serial.println("Upload complete");       }          }//End send loop     else {       if (DEBUG) { Serial.println(F("Connection failed")); }       return;       }         delay(2500);     }//End loop /****************************************************************   Function Fun Time ****************************************************************/ double dewPoint(double tempf, double humidity) {   double A0= 373.15/(273.15 + tempf);   double SUM = -7.90298 * (A0-1);   SUM += 5.02808 * log10(A0);   SUM += -1.3816e-7 * (pow(10, (11.344*(1-1/A0)))-1) ;   SUM += 8.1328e-3 * (pow(10,(-3.49149*(A0-1)))-1) ;   SUM += log10(1013.246);   double VP = pow(10, SUM-3) * humidity;   double T = log(VP/0.61078);     return (241.88 * T) / (17.558-T); }

Question by rwcwx    |  last reply


Why did they screw up the editor so I can't upload pics anymore? Answered

When I try to edit my past instructable to add a new pic I can no longer do so on my small screen laptop. 1) the popup for adding the pic is sized so that the controls are "off screen" below the bottom. 2) There is no way to scroll the popup down. 3) and you can't "grab" the popup to move it up. Never had this issue before!

Question by EcoExpatMike    |  last reply


Basic server management: What is best practice when uploading to /var/www/ ?

I recently installed Ubuntu server on an old PC and attached it to my home network - (only I use the network and it's wired). The issue is that (Having installed Apache web server) I am not sure how to remotely upload content. By default Apache uses /var/www/ to contain the web content that it serves. By default the write access to this folder is set to root (and no users or groups). Thus I can't work out the right way to use "scp" to copy files, because (being ubuntu) there is no actual root account. Should I just change the permissions of the folder to allow my user account write access or is this considered bad practice? Is there another or better way? Thanks in advance, Drew

Question by andy    |  last reply


Arduino NANO error uploading sketch. After attempted loading of NANO clone (ELEGOO) the IDE hangs -

The Com port was selected, old bootloader selected. Various error messages (will collect and add to post here). However the very strange thing is that the NANO is sending to the Serial Monitor at 115200 BPS the message"Loaded next response 1" continuously!OS is Win 10 64 bit - current version with all updates.USB Driver is USB Serial CH-340 version 3.5.2019.1 dated 1/30/2019.This appears to be a new issue that appeared after I attempted to run two instances of the IDE with two NANOs attached. One on COM4 and the other on COM11.I have deleted and reinstalled the driver - same issue.Going to try on another PC.Anyone have any ideas?

Question by Rozzer    |  last reply


Ino files problem

During publishing my the last Instructables project there was a problem with uploading .ino files. It was at beginning of November. There is message "Internal Server Error". It looks, according web description, an error is not on my side. I have asked Instructables team for help. They have answered. issue is known, and promised to do something and solve a problem. But nothing was done for more than four weeks. Other photo files were uploaded, but it looks like a problem is for all text files. Can somebody advice how to upload ino files?

Question by kamil47    |  last reply


Picture uploaded to title page keeps being removed after about 3 days

I have had an instructable up for about a year here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-build-self-balancing-skateboardrobotsegway-/ The picture I upload and attach to the title page keeps working for about 3 days then is removed. Consequently my Instructable has no title page picture. I keep re attaching the image and it works OK for about 3 days then is automatically removed. It is my photograph, not taken from anyone elses website so not a copyright issue. What is the problem? I have just reattached the image again now but within 3 days it will have gone again. Best wishes Xenon John

Topic by XenonJohn    |  last reply


How do you upload a picture for your instructable from an iPad? I can't seem to make it work.

 Wordpress had a similar issue and recently updated their iOS app to make it work, it'd be great if there was a similar solution for Instructables. The Android app doesn't appear to support Instructable creation, so that's not an option either. Seems like a great opportunity to open the community up to all the iOS users out there...

Question by MatthewTaylor    |  last reply


Instrucables Video

So i copyed my youtube videos embed code and pasted it into the embed video code box and pressed publish and it said uploading but then it just stayed on edit and didint work someone please help me with this issue. 

Topic by BlueCreation    |  last reply


Arduino USB connection problem: usbdev_open(): did not find any USB device "usb"?

I have a problem with my Arduino... I was using it and working correctly but suddenly an issue has appeared.... When I connect the Arduino via USB, the LED (pin 13) becomes ON permanently.... When I uploaded the Blinking example it's still ON and not blinking.... When pressing Shift + Upload this error is appeared: avrdude: usbdev_open(): did not find any USB device "usb" I'm using Arduino Uno, and the Programmer is checked on AVRISP mkII

Question by EngineeRoo    |  last reply


Problem - Reusing an image from the Library and editing it's tag edits all Instructables using that image

I don't know if this has always been this way, or it might be new, but I just noticed something that for me is a big issue.Sometimes I reuse images from my graphic library of images I've previously uploaded to Instructables for use in other tutorials. That sounded like a great feature. However, I just noticed that if I use the same image in two or more instructables (selected from the library), if I edit the text boxes in one, it modifies the text boxes in all of the images. What a disaster! Now I have no idea of what Instructables I've screwed up in the past thanks to this. Sometimes I might want an image for one reason, and later I might want to use it to call out a whole different issue.Please consider correcting this. I thought the point of the library was to avoid uploading duplicate content to Instructables servers. Now I'll have to upload the same image as many times as I need to reuse it, since by default I intend to use different call-out boxes (or however they are called on them).If I'm getting this wrong, and this bug is actually a feature, please let me know how I am interpreting this issue the wrong way

Topic by MillennialDIYer    |  last reply


This arduino code does not work as expected, any help? there seems to be an issue with the digitalWrite function. Answered

Recently, I wanted to make a laboratory grade linear semi-precision power supply using an Arduino, LCD, some comparators, and MOSFETs. Idealistically, I want measurements to be 3 significant figures of precision (0.1% accuracy @ 30V), voltages as high as 30V, and max current of 10A. The power supply is most likely going to be just a single regulated output, maybe if I feel lucky I will make 2 regulated outputs once I get the darn Arduino code to work. The Arduino's job is to simply set and read the output voltage, and is not part of the control loop. That is what the comparators are for. (I learned the hard way that using the Arduino within the control loop just results in parasitic oscillations because the Arduino is a clocked device and can only self correct at timed intervals.) Anyway, below is the code. I made explanations of all portions of it as clear as possible, and I also give the wiring used for the LCD, 4 buttons, and analog inputs used to set and read the voltage and current. However, the issue arises when I upload the code, the setVI button does not work unless I press both it and the RS button at same time. I made the many of the integers display in the serial output to diagnosing easier hopefully. I can see the setVI integer and my dudd integer only goes HIGH when  either it and the RS buttons are pressed simultaneously, or when the RS butten is held down for a long enough time. However, as far as I am aware, nowhere in the code do I manipulate that code so setVI goes HIGH dependant on other buttons, so I am bewildered by this parasitic phenomenon. Is my Arduino MEGA broken? I had a similar problem in the past, where I had multiple analogRead statements It strangely seemed to factor in the outputs of other input pins. Anyway, here is the code. Maybe someone could upload it and tell me if it functions properly on their arduino? That would help me determine if it is indeed a software issue. (p.s. I use an Arduino ripoff called the Funduino, but it is not broken in any way, I don't think?) Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance, -Max-. p.s. To make the code below legible, please copy/paste it in an IDE or in notepad and convert it into a monospaced font, it will make it very easy to follow. //---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------// /* Arduino Software for lab power supply. Wireing guide:        **Wiring for 16x2 LCD:**       * LCD RS pin to digital pin 12       * LCD Enable pin to digital pin 11       * LCD D4 pin to digital pin 5       * LCD D5 pin to digital pin 4       * LCD D6 pin to digital pin 3       * LCD D7 pin to digital pin 2       * LCD R/W pin to ground       * 10K resistor:       * ends to +5V and ground       * wiper to LCD VO pin (pin 3)    **Wiring for buttons:**       * RS       button to pin 6  (as a digital input) -- Switches from reading read current/voltage values to setting those values, and Vice Versa.       * VIselect button to pin 7 (as a digital input) -- Switches to the 'set' mode and flips from setting the voltage to setting the current.       * UP       button to pin 8  (as a digital input) -- Increments the voltage or current up when in the 'set' mode.       * DOWN     button to pin 9  (as a digital input) -- Increments the voltage or current up when in the 'set' mode.    **Analog inputs/outputs:**       *A0   -- Measures a potential of a resistor divider that can output a voltage of 0-5V based on the 0-30V output this PSW capable of.       *A1   -- Measures the current flow through a resistor to measure current. (Some reason there seems to be a pulldown resistor on this pin, so the voltage does not float.)       *Vout -- This will be later implemented if I get a DAC, for the increased resolution. (1024 is just not enough in my opinion. At least 12 bits)       *Aout -- This will be later implemented if I get a DAC, for the increased resolution. (1024 is just not enough in my opinion. At least 12 bits) */ int UP    = 0;      // These are the 2 buttons used to incrementally int DOWN  = 0;      // step up or down the voltage on the output int RS = 0;         // These 2 buttons tell the LCD to either read out the voltage on the analog pins. (I plan to change this so it reads from a 14 bit ADC and writes int setVI = 0;      // the voltage output through a 14 (or 16 bit) bit ADC. I need 3 significant digits, or at least 0.1% accuracy. int dudd = 0;       // this dudd (dummy variable) is just here to prove that digitaslreading pin 7 works very weird! Any help on this? int preRS = 1;      // Anything with a "Pre" before it is simply what said integer/variable on the last loop. I use these to prevent a parasitic int presetVI = 1;   // oscillation of states that they control, so when a button is pressed, it will not jump between 2 states every cycle. int preUP    = 0; int preDOWN  = 0; float Aset = 0.00;  // I need these to be "floated" so I can set the exact value of these to 3 significant digits. float Vset = 0.00;  // Aset and Vset define what the output voltage *should* be, and are defined with the UP/DOWN buttons. int VIselection = 1;// this variable will invert when Aset button is pressed. Similar to the IVselect, this number will also invert int READorSET = 1;  // Bset button is pressed. This allows the mode to be changed from SET mode or the READ output mode, thus allowing                     // one to compare the output voltage and current to the set value, as well as set the output voltage and current. #include LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins void setup() { //-------------------------// I tried making diagnosting this thing easier by making all the important data availible in the serial monitor.   lcd.begin(16, 2);   Serial.begin(9600);   Serial.print("INPUTS         RS:           READorSET:       setVI & dudd:        VIselection:");   Serial.println(""); } void loop() {   float V = (30.00*analogRead(A0))/1024.00;   //These are what I use to read the voltage output of my power supply. I will have a voltage divider on the output,   float A = (15.000*analogRead(A1))/1024.000; //to limit the voltage range from 0-30V to 0-5V. Same concept goes for the current measurement.   int dudd  = digitalRead(7);//   RS    = digitalRead(6);//RS stands for "Read/set"   setVI = digitalRead(7);//VI is stands for "Current/Voltage set"   UP    = digitalRead(8);//UP is simply a button used to set voltage & current   DOWN  = digitalRead(9);//DOWN is simply a button used to set voltage & current     if(presetVI == LOW && setVI == HIGH){VIselection = -VIselection;}   if(preRS    == LOW && RS    == HIGH){READorSET   =   -READorSET;}     Serial.print("\t        ");  // prints an inital space.     Serial.print(RS);            // prints the RS reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.print(READorSET);     // prints the READorSET reading. This should only change when the RS button is pressed.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.print(setVI);         // prints the setVI reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t");     Serial.print(dudd);         // prints the setVI reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.println(VIselection); // prints the VIselection reading. This should only change when the setVI button is pressed.         //if(presetVI == LOW && setVI == HIGH && READorSET == 1) {READorSET = -READorSET; VIselect = -VIselect;}      // This line of code just makes so that when I need to go from the voltage read screen to      // the set mode, I can just press the VIselect button. It just makes things more intuitive, but could be      // causeing the error, so I nulled it. I also nulled it out another portion that will keep the voltage or      // current setting the same when using the VI buttton to select the set mode. (otherwise it has to be      // double pressed to return to, say, the current setting, if that is where you left off.)   if(UP == HIGH && DOWN == LOW && VIselection == -1){if(Aset <= 10.00) {Aset += 0.05;}}   if(DOWN == HIGH && UP == LOW && VIselection == -1){if(Aset >= 0.10) {Aset -= 0.05;}}     if(UP == HIGH && DOWN == LOW && VIselection == 1) {if(Vset <= 30.00) {Vset += 0.05;}}   if(DOWN == HIGH && UP == LOW && VIselection == 1) {if(Vset >= 0.05) {Vset -= 0.05;}}     if (RS == HIGH){digitalWrite(13, 1);}   if (RS == LOW){digitalWrite(13, 0);} //============================================================================================================//   if (READorSET == 1){      //this is the defualt screen, and shows the output voltage and current.     lcd.clear();              lcd.setCursor(0, 0);     lcd.print("VOLTAGE:");     lcd.setCursor(0, 1);     lcd.print("CURRENT:");     lcd.setCursor(10, 0);     lcd.print(V);     lcd.setCursor(15, 0);     lcd.print("V");     lcd.setCursor(10, 1);     lcd.print(A);     lcd.setCursor(15, 1);     lcd.print("A");   }   if (READorSET == -1){   // This is the portion of the code allowing me to set the current and voltage     lcd.clear();          // using the up/down buttons.       if (VIselection == -1){         lcd.setCursor(0, 0);         lcd.print("  SET CURRENT:");         lcd.setCursor(5, 1);         lcd.print(Aset);         lcd.print("A ");       }       if(VIselection == 1){         lcd.setCursor(0, 0);         lcd.print("  SET VOLTAGE:");         lcd.setCursor(5, 1);         lcd.print(Vset);         lcd.print("V ");       }   } //============================================================================================================//   presetVI = setVI; // At the end of each loop, the current variable settings that were used are set equal   preRS = RS;       // to the 'pre' versions of the code. This allows me to basically measure the when                     // the button is initially pressed, and/or released. Using this method with the delay()                     // function, however, is a bit buggy, but I did have it working well enough before. If you                     // tap the button too quickly. You almost have to hold it for a split second. If you                     // know a better, simpler way of doing this, please tell me, thank you.                       delay(80);        // The delay helps stabilize the reading on the LCD, but if it is too large, than the                     // refresh rate suffers, and the buttons respond slower. However, setting too low will                     // cause the reading on the display to change so rapidly, it is illegible. }

Question by -max-    |  last reply


managing tags in image library

While writing an instructable I was uploading picture using the new uploader (is it still new if it's older than 6 months?). Before clicking upload I used the tag files as and input my info. I have found 2 issues with this style of upload. I'd like some feedback. 1) I see the benefit of tagging uploaded photos and the aid in searching. But, is there any plans to offer a folder based system to he image library? Not all the files I upload to this site are relevant enough to include in the tagging section. As far as I've tested, not tagging a file results in the file only being viewable in the 'All' category. If you upload more than 50 pictures you'll be searching for a while to find it again later. I've been using an ad hoc method of using underscores to keep files organized. (ex. of tags: _discussion, _forums, etc. And for hyphenated or 2-word projects, tagging jello_brains or joining words like jellobrains). This is really so the drop-down menu isn't cluttered with all kinds of one-off keywords. Is if there is a folder-based system to use/search our library that isn't reliant on keywords. Which made me think of something else. 2) After re-uploading the photos again with the underscores in the right places (for my own sanity of keeping things where I can find them). I tried deleting the now-redundant files under the old tags. I successfully deleted the files under the tags, but couldn't remove the tag. I had not started writing the instructable yet or identified any keywords anywhere else outside of the upload editor. Is there a method to remove redundant or erroneously-named tags to files? Is there a way to add additional tags to a file after it has been uploaded?

Topic by mikeasaurus    |  last reply


Linkit One not working

I have a Linkit One that keeps disappearing from my ports when I try to upload a sketch. I was doing some testing of a sketch I had made and I keep getting the message that there was not board on the port I had selected. I have successfully uploaded sketches with this setup before. This was on a Macbook Pro running Yosemite 10.10.5. After several attempts to fix the problem I moved my setup to my Windows 7 machine. The issue is similar. I cannot get the board to remain visible on the port for any amount of time. I plug it in and it shows up for a few second before disappearing again. I fear my board's usb port has gone bad. I can upload to my arduino uno with no problems.   If it is a bad usb port is there anything I can do? Can I upload sketches another way? I would hate to lose the use of this board. Thanks for your time.

Topic by ehudwill    |  last reply


how to amplify my sprint sierra 250u aircard signal?

I live in the woods where comcast or verizon hi speed internet isn't avaliable, so i use my 250u aircard connected to a 3g router for internet. my download speed is pretty stable, but my upload speed is up and down. if i can get a stable upload speed of over 100kp i'm fine, but sometimes its like 30,56, 21kp, when i play my xbox online if i have an upload speed over 100kp i don't have an issue, but below that my game lags so bad. how can i amplify my signal so it doesn't drop? do you think an old satelite dish in front of the aircard turned at the correct direction can amplify my signal?

Question by kdwspiderman    |  last reply


Can't add images to comments...

I'm having trouble uploading photos in comments both on instructables and on forum posts (these are the only two I've noticed). Adding photos to my own forum topics is fine as I can use the old uploader, but the new one doesn't work. The uploader brings my windows browser up and I can select a file, but then nothing happens. I'm running Windows 8 with the most recent version of Chrome, but don't think any of that's the problem as I had used the uploader recently and had no problems. I'm pretty sure it isn't because of the file size as I waited a while at first, then resized the photos to just a few hundred kb instead. I've tried adding photos to comments on a few different forum threads and instructables but none are working. Clearing the browser cache and cookies doesn't seem to help the problem either. I'd have taken screenshots, but there's nothing to show because nothing happens! lol Hope I've described the issue enough!

Topic by ChronicCrafter    |  last reply


Photos &quot;by reference&quot; ?

Is there a way to put a photo in a forum topic (or instructable, but mostly for forums) by including only a link to the location of that photo elsewhere on the net (this is how videos work)? When posting "look at this neat instructable-like things I found elsewhere" type entries, it's a pain to have to download the photo and re-upload it to instructables, not to mention the vaguely uncomfortable feeling I get WRT intellectual property issues...

Topic by westfw    |  last reply


How should I do to solve the problem of GPS data not received? Answered

I installed GPS module, MicroSD card, OLED, and Arduino Uno board. After upload the code to the board, the result just show zero value. Does it has a problem with my GPS module? How to fix this issue? Thank you in advance for your help. Your help is greatly appreciated

Question by VankeyH    |  last reply


Trouble with cover images for Instructables

I have been recently seeing this problem. Whenever I click an image upside down on my phone and edit it to flip to normal, it gets corrected and comes in the correct orientation. After uploading the image on the editor, everything looks fine, even after saving the changes, but after refreshing the page after a while, the cover image again flips upside down. If anyone has solution, kindly look into this issue.

Topic by KushagraK7    |  last reply


Arduino UNO not working with Arduino WiFi shield

I'm having a lot of issues regarding interfacing an Arduino wifi shield with the Arduino Uno. My Arduino works fine when the shield is not attached to it but when I attach the shield, I'm unable to upload the code; I get: avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00 I also tried to change my board and uploaded the code on Arduino due, then it gives: device not found on COM 8 as error Otherwise the boards are perfectly fine, they are working usually they should. Also, I'm unable to reset the board when the shield is mounted on the board The code i uploaded is simple blink code,however none of the code are uploading The shield i'm using is this , the arduino's official WiFi shield shield These are the things i have already tried but none is working : -powered up the arduino from external power supply (12 V, 1A) -removed the shield and programmed it (code loads on board ) but then mounting shield on board, the led on pin 13 cease to blink -without using the shield , arduino works as usual (like that Rx, Tx pins work and pin 13's LED and power led blinks /lit up) but with the shield stacked on board , nothing seems to work

Topic by jatinbatra    |  last reply


Embedding Instagram Video Into Instructable

I was creating an instructable yesterday for the newest "Burning Questions" contest, which encourages submission via instagram video and vine. The issue is, these video hosts are not supported by instructables' video embed function.  When attempting to enter the instagram embed code (OSX, both Chrome and Safari), the iframe placeholder will appear temporarily, but will disappear when the instructable is saved or when the user attempts to publish. Only when uploading the video to an approved host was I able to post a video sourced from instagram.

Topic by thatkidwithayoyo    |  last reply


ESP8266 has red led but not active after flashing

Hi Guys.I've been tinkering with ESP8266 for a couple of weeks now. It worked before the weekend, and now with only some code changes it stopped (but it does not seem to crash).My project: Tabletop clock with weather. For now I'm trying to get weather from openweather API via ESP8266. I actually managed to do the request, and now was trying to parse JSON, and at this point it stopped working.My setup: USB CP2104 CP2102 - UART TTL flashing stick Arduino Uno - only provides power to ESP (see below), RX/TX not connected.ESP8266 CH_PD and VCC powered from Arduino Uno 3.3V pin GPIO2 is connected to GND. The rest of pins are connected to the flashing stick.Problem: 1. I run flashing from Arduino IDE. 2. Compilation is ok, uploading is ok on 115200 baud, serial monitor is also 115200. 3. Sketch uploading progress is visible in IDE terminal, blue LED on ESP is rapidly blinking while uploading. 4. After upload is finished, I see something like "tail 8, checksum ... " in the serial monitor.Then I do not see anything in serial monitor. The red LED on ESP is very weak after flashing - the last time I tried to flash it - it is not visible with the lights on. The ESP does not connect to router (according to router info).Also one strange sideeffect - after flashing, wi-fi drops on my laptop.What may be the issue? Thanks.

Question by beshur  


Snap-fit design

Hello all, The left panel in the image I have uploaded represents aluminium frame, 1mm thick. What I would like to do is design another aluminium or plastic piece that can snap into the inside of this frame (something like the right panel in the image). The frame, once positioned in, would be a permanent fixture. I have looked at different kind of snap-fit joints but I'm not sure on what's the most appropriate design in terms of simplicity and functionality. Another issue is calculating the actual dimensions of the snap-fit joints. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Topic by Ribenaisnice    |  last reply


Hack my homepage?

Software security issues are often obvious to a second pair of eyes. I just posted the PHP scripts for my personal contact homepage as an instructable:Simple PHP personal contact homepage (web3.0!)Can you hack it? Preferably a copy on your local machine and not on my actual server... I deleted all my administration files and classes prior to making this post, just in case.I have two primary concerns:1. General PHP injection attacks. Proper handling and escaping of form data.2. The admin interface has a sessions based authentication mechanism. Login is compared to a MD5 hash of the password, then a session is created with an MD5 hash of the user's IP address. Each subsequent page load compares the authenticated session IP with the user's IP address (again, an MD5 of both). The goal is to prevent remote session stealing related flaws by tying the session to an (unknown...) IP address. Obviously if you have access to the local machine this is all moot, but there is little I can do about that. If an intruder were to get around the session authentication, they would be able to upload files just about anywhere on my server using the admin upload interface. This is a bit of a concern...I think in light of this, I'm going to add an option to limit the web admin interface to one IP address. My IP is fairly static, and if it changes, simply upload a new config file by ftp.

Topic by ian    |  last reply


Unable to program an Arduino micro. Any ideas on how to fix this? Answered

I've been working on a project for some time now, and I plan to embed an arduino micro into it. As such, I just went to do a dry run of the setup with the micro before I started putting it all together. And failed miserably.  Few things to get out of the way: -It is an off-brand, but it does have the ATMega 328 at it's core.  -My computer (win7) does recognize it, although it's as a USB Serial Port (com6) and not an arduino micro  -I am using the 1.0.5 IDE -My PC will only see the micro as a USB Serial port on one of my USB ports. On the others, it sees it as a USB hub (and a failed one at that) -I have tried to manually update the drivers (by pointing windows to the driver folder): it will only say that the correct driver is installed (either the Serial Port or USB Hub) and refuse to go past that -I also tried to manually assigning the driver via "I have the disc" only to have my PC blue-screen -I have powercycled. Too many times to count.  -I have tried with another micro: same issue -I have tried without anything connected shy of the USB cord and free hanging, to ensure nothing metal was touching it -The IDE does have the correct setting (correct board selected and COM port) -I've tried several sketch (mostly those from the "Example" section of the IDE) and each time I get the same error -I have tried holding the on-board reset button while uploading, letting go just at the moment the IDE says "Uploading" With what I hope is the obvious stuff covered (though chances are I did miss something stupid, and thats whats causing this) the error I get is as follows: Binary sketch size: 5,190 bytes (of 28,672 byte maximum) Found programmer: Id = "B<          Software Version = . ; Hardware version = . avrdude: error: buffered memory access not support. Maybe it isn't a butterfly/AVR109 but a AVR910 device? I als thought that maybe the bootloader was bad (I'm a tad of a noob to this, so I'm not 100% sure of the above error can be caused due to a poor bootlader) and tried to upload it. This pops up: avrdude: Error: Could not find USBtiny device (0x1781/0xc9f) Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Question by DoctorWoo    |  last reply


3D Printing Competition

Hi everyone, Hope you're all well? cartridgesave.co.uk recently held their first ever 3D Print Cup - A challenge issued to 3D artists to design an original 3D character, which they'd then print off (for free!) using a 3D Printer. The designers were all allowed to finish off their creations, and awards were given out at the wrap party, with the best overall design winning a Makerbot 2x Replicator. We had some amazing entries, from all over the UK and even the USA, South America and Europe. A gallery of the all the entrants has been uploaded at www.cartridgesave.co.uk/3dprintcup Hopefully there will be another 3D Print Cup next year, so keep your eyes peeled on the site.

Topic by Asekhri    |  last reply


Robot having trouble resizing gifs?

I just noticed that the title gif for AndyGadget's Piecax the poltergeist has lost quality when resized by Robot. The large and medium ones which haven't been resized appear fine but the small and thumb ones have been degraded. I wonder if this is an issue for all gifs? I wouldn't know where to look for others, this one in my CD ible doesn't seem affected but it's just black and white unlike Andy's image which is more complicated. But then... I uploaded this one and it and it has the same problem. Where robot hasn't had to reduce the size it's fine, but when it resizes (small and thumb) some errors are introduced. (reported from test account so as not to spam subscribers)

Topic by Jayefuu_test    |  last reply


Lego Mindstorms Motor preforming strange?

I have a group of students using lego mindstorms to program a robot to go though an "obstacle" course it starts fine with a simple black line following program but after it comes to the first obstacle a red line it is supposed to stop for 2 seconds and then move forward 2 rotations of the BC motors at 30 power only the C motor moves and with what I am guessing to be 80+ power and the B motor acts like it is trying to spin with 5 power.  The students have hard rebooted the NXT brick, used several different computers to upload the program, made different programs but the issue still persists.  Any help would be much appreciated.  I have even done my own programs and encounter this problem. 

Question by zhang-ting-yu    |  last reply


New Editor Relased

We've released an updated version of the editor. Some new features include: It's powered by jquery, which will mean nothing to you if you're not a huge nerd. Automatically saves after doing anything but typing. Remember to save anything you type, just like a word processor. Incorporates a new uploader, which will hopefully suck less than the current one. Should be faster, I think? I'm not sure about this point yet, still have to see it in the wild. Will definitely fail tonight, there are caching issues. I hope I can delete this line in the morning! Various bugfixes, the previous editor was heavily in need of going away forever, heavily. Dances when no one is watching. PROVE IT DOESN'T. As always, please let us know if you have any problems. Or, also, let us know if you think it's awesome. Nobody ever does that. It's lonely here. Send cupcakes.

Topic by dworley  


Darlington pair not working? Answered

HI,I've uploaded a schematic of a circuit I just built and hope everything is clear in it.I need the darlington pair(made using a couple of BC547) to allow flow of current through it to power the relay only when the SPST switch between the base of the first transistor and +6VDC line is closed.But here's the problem-Even before I close the SPST switch the relay's coil get power,as soon as power is served to the circuit.The situation can be compared to directly connecting a relay to a 6vdc source because all the other components in my circuit fail to perform their functions.FYI the LM 7806 regulator gives out a max.current of 1 ampere and I suspect the issue is related with the Darlington pair receiving too much current.I tried adding a couple of resistors to block the excess current,making little difference.I request for your assistance to correct the flaw.Thanks in advance for spending your precious time.

Question by Adarsh_tronix    |  last reply


Lego NXT motor problem Answered

I have an NXT 2.0 and am having trouble with the motors. With the wire (which connect LEGO servo motor to NXT) pushed all the way in to the NXT, it can only sense rotation. The motor does not turn (using the built in program feature). If I pull the wire partially out, the motor rotates, but the NXT doesn't sense rotation. I have tried re-uploading firmware, and have used motors which I know work (work fine with EV3 (they are the NXT motors so it's not a compatibility issue). I think it is a problem with the brick. Actually the motors do rotate with the wires pushed all the way in, but it only rotates 10 degrees, and after that a ringing sound can be heard. I am using NXT program function, and just put in up arrows, so I don't think it's a programming error.

Question by Jugiot    |  last reply


Star Wars X-Wing Rogue Squadron Costume

Hello Fellow Instructables Members! I created this costume over the course of 2011.  It is an X-Wing from Star Wars.  My friend and I designed it, and I built it.      The total cost was about $120.00.     The original plan was to make it simply a costume i could mount on the frame of a hiking backpack.  I decided to add in the option of placing it on my bike in order to take of some of the weight.  I had a bit of an issue with the front wheel though.   I can only make it balance when i am strapped into the backpack and sitting on the seat.  I should have thought this one through a little more clearly.  It would seem not everything in life can be "Winged."     The backpack mount is set just where R2-D2 would be.  I used my Dremel and cut a hole out a of a salad bowl.  It is not in the picture due to issues I had with wind conditions at the time and balance.  I'll upload pictures soon.  And yes, you can see out of the cockpit.  Seeing in, well, that's another story. Materials: ~ PVC pipe ~ Spray Paint ~ Hiking Backpack Frame ~ Insulation Foam ~ Red Hot Blue Glue ~ Glue Gun ~ LOTS OF ZIP TIES! Wingspan: 10' Length: 14' Any Questions, please feel free to message me :D Before I put the covering on it here is a test I did :

Topic by _-MacGyver-_  


Native iOS and Android App Retirement

Hello Community! In an ongoing effort to make sure that Instructables is able to focus its product development efforts where they count most for existing an new authors, we are officially retiring our native iOS and Android apps. Note that this does not affect mobile web. I expect continued investment in mobile technologies for years to come, but we will focus on the experience of people using Instructables through their mobile web browsers, rather than through downloaded apps. For those keeping score, this isn't exactly news. We have not released new versions of either app in over two years, and they have become steadily buggier and buggier during that time due primarily to changes in their respective environments. Android 2 and iOS 5 were current when we released them originally, and Android 7 and iOS 10 are very different beasts. Simply keeping up -- even without adding anything new or fixing any bugs -- requires a constant investment of development time from Instructables, and prevents that time from going to projects with greater impact. The original purposes for the apps were: 1) To lower the bar to Instructables authorship by providing direct access to upload photos taken on smart phones 2) To improve the browsing experience by making it faster Since they were released, mobile technologies have progressed to the point that #1 is no longer a concern. Our mobile web editor already has full support for uploading images directly from your phone. #2 is also coming into striking distance soon, as browser manufacturers begin to standardize their implementation of offline content for mobile web sites, sometimes referred to collectively as "progressive web apps". We'll be watching these technologies closely, and we'll be among the first to speed up your browsing experience with offline components when cross-browser solutions become available. We have already developed (and will continue to expand on) Accelerated Mobile Pages, which mean we display nearly instantaneously when you tap an AMP result on mobile from Google. You can identify these pages via a lightning bolt in mobile search results: In short, the reasons that we developed the native apps no longer apply, and we're dropping support for them in favor of putting those energies where they are able to have greater impact for the community: Mobile Web. The apps will soon be removed from sale from their respective download stores. For existing users who have downloaded these apps and are using them currently: feel free to continue doing so, though we would urge you to upload your Instructable Drafts to the website as soon as possible. While we don't expect the editing process to break, no support is available should you experience issues in the future. You can also use the apps to browse Instructables, though I believe there are already some issues that have started adding friction to this experience. Thanks, all, for your continued support of our vibrant community! ~Devs

Topic by pseaton    |  last reply


Ws2812b led problem

Last year I put up 500 led round my home for Christmas (a permanent feature) . About 2 weeks ago I tried them and everything was fine. Over the weekend I added a Sonoff basic (better than a time switch) and had to adjust a small section as they were out of line. Since that (I'll fated) adjustment some of the LEDs have started to play up... I have the leds cycle RGB over several seconds, for testing, but the last 50 or so go berserk and rapidly flash white (and other colours). It's going to be PITA but do I replace the faulty(?) led/s or can I bridge what (may be) the fault and test the others??? The display leds are ip67 rated tied to plastic conduit with power injection at either end of the 5 strips I use. Ive checked the voltage (both ends) and I get 5v so it's not power issues. I've tried to upload a pic (possibly a video) to show what happens. The fault is in the last strip of leds towards the end of the circuit. Many thanks

Question by Boo-Dings    |  last reply


Better RF Mouse Range

Hello. I got a Wireless Mouse that still working fine.The signal between the Mouse and its receiver is not so great, about half meter, and it stop responding. So I took apart the Mouse and its Receiver. The antenna of the Mouse is kind of steal (I think but its color) and the one of the receiver is coil of very thing copper about 3/4 turns around a piece of plastic. So as said I would like to increase the signal between both, for better rang. What I have found around the best material is copper, so here is my issue. Is it better to modify the antenna of the Mouse or its receiver?? Should I rather use thicker Copper Wire and do few spinning around a piece of plastic, or use a thinner Copper Wire and do a lot of spin around a piece of plastic. So what better for a strong signal: - thicker wire and less spinning or - thinner Wire and more spinningThanx for those that would give a some advise/recommendations. I am will upload pictures later when possible. PS: I manage to add to it a Switch to turn off the mouse to extend battery Life.

Question by saadland    |  last reply


Google+ Hangout - Build Night Q&A/Feedback/Suggestions

Write Up From Google Hangout We are hosting a google+ hangout to answer questions, take suggestions, and get general feedback on the build night program. If your makerspace has participated in a build night or plans on participating in the future you are invited to attend. This is open to all members of your makerspace community - so be sure to let your community know! Carley and Mike, both Instructables staff members, will go over a few topics (listed below) and take live questions. Instructables Representatives: Carley Jacobson (Business Development + Partnerships Manager): Carley is the creator of the build night program and is constantly seeking out new ways to support the maker community. She connects companies that make cool products to the Instructables community through contests, build nights, sponsorship, and other programs. Mike Warren (Play Editor and Community Manager): Ever contact Instructables service, info, or support e-mail accounts? If so, you most likely received a response from Mike. He has helped hundreds (maybe thousands?) of people post excellent Instructables and has contributed 120 Instructables himself. Time: Join in for one of the following times. We will be on google air so both sessions will be recorded and posted to the Instructables Youtube account. Tuesday, July 30 SESSION 1: 9-10am PST (4pm UTC) SESSION 2: 6-7pm PST (1am UTC) How to Join: Check the google+ air broadcasts and search for the hangout titled “Instructables Build Night Q&A;” and you can opt into the hangout. This won't be live until the time of the event. General Schedule: Build Night and Makerspaces on Instructables: Carley [5-10 mins] Instructables Best Practices: Mike [5-10 mins] Q&A;: Mike + Carley [40 mins] What types of problems have you encountered at your build nights? Have you had issues uploading Instructables Motivating people to upload Instructables Suggestions for future build nights Suggestions on how to improve build nights Suggestions for how to engage makerspaces beyond build nights

Topic by Carleyy    |  last reply


The thumbnail image representing my instructable "survival fishing kit" is incorrect.

While creating my instructable I uploaded an unrelated image onto the introduction step.  I have since deleted this image but it remains the thumbnail that represents the project which stinks because people are going to get the wrong idea about what I made.  My instructable was recently featured on the home page and I hoped the issue would magically fix itself but it seems to still be the wrong photo.  The picture in question is of a circular brown wooden shape with a few fishing hooks in the middle, the picture that should represent the instructable is the one with the text survival fishing kit that shows the kit and the stuff that it holds.  Here is a link to the instructable; https://www.instructables.com/id/Survival-Fishing-Kit-3/ . The problem is easiest to view if you search the instructable or if you look at the featured instructables on the home page or in the outdoors section. Also I was wondering if the instructable could be refeatured on the home page with the correct picture so that can get a true sense of what the project is about.  I have this project entered in a contest and I feel that the bug has done me a disservice as people who may have potentially voted for my work might have missed it because the picture was misleading. Thanks for your time, and I look forward to your response. Best Regards, Matt

Topic by Matt Makes    |  last reply