I took apart a hologram t.v (the ones with projection) and i cannot find a flyback transformer. give me a pic.
Question by knektek | last reply
Behind both the T.V and the DVD player the plugins (Ant. in.)antenna in. was the only cable connection needed to operate properly. But the plug in behind the T.V has broke so the little screw (plugin )that came out of the T.V . Can it be fixable? Can the wires be spliced or anything?
Question | last reply
I have a v-tech game for my boys. When I was going to play I look in saw that the batteries were corroded..Now the coil in the battery department are rusty. Can that rust be move? If so, with what?
Question | last reply
What are/is your favorite T.V shows/show?Mine are:Criminal Minds (really demented killers)The Unit (Awsome/intence)24 (awsome/intence)My Name Is Earl (really funny)Reaper (Funniest ever!)MonkCSI (Sometimes, See other topic/rant https://www.instructables.com/forum/TSM411NF9AC3FNX/ )CSI NYBones(sometimes)HeroesEverybody Hates ChrisSimpsonsFamily Guy Robot Chicken
Topic by Spl1nt3rC3ll | last reply
I think it would be beneficial to create an A/V switcher that has power plugs for each of the slots in addition to the a/v components. So if you select #2 for example, it would power only #2 as well as display whatever is plugged in to #2. Could someone create a tutorial for this? Thanks
Topic by evillordnikon
Hello. i have a zen v plus and i really dont like the software it came with it. i prefer iTunes, but iTunes cant sync with other mp3 players. is there any software that anybody knows of that can sync the zen v plus. i have windows vista. I'd use windows media player but i dont like it.
Topic by chrischavez | last reply
What do you like more, or what did you like more as a kidLego or KnexPersonally i like lego as i think it looks more realistic and i played for days on end when i was younger, also knex is mainly used for guns and occasionally big buildings, but with lego you can make entire worlds!!So far its 5 lego / 3 knex
Topic by =SMART= | last reply
Hi all! Hope I got the right place for this. I figured that there's someone in this community who can help me. My A/V receiver is about to give up the ghost. A number of channels no longer work, and the sound is pretty fuzzy. I know I need to replace it. I've always been terrible with A/V stuff. I'm not sure what direction to go as far as replacing it goes. Here's my issue: The room I have the receiver in is small, so I don't need a lot of oomph. I also don't have a way to run wires to rear speakers without people tripping over them. I've gone without rear sound for a long time now. I've never seen a set of wireless speakers that are reliable, so that seems like a poor option. I can't really do a "home theater in a box" setup, because they don't have enough inputs to add all of my stuff. The things that currently run through the receiver are my computer (which runs our TV through a tuner card), a wii, an xbox 360, and a dvd player. None of them are HDMI. I use RCA cables for everything. The other thing that looked interesting is a sound bar, as they can apparently replicate surround sound without the rear speakers, but they seem to have the same problem that the "theater in a box" packages have. I don't know anything about receivers. For example, I don't know if it makes sense to use a 5.1 receiver if I'm only running R, L, and Center speakers from it. Anyway... I'm not looking for brands or models necessarily, but rather, setup suggestions. What kinds of things should I be looking into? I can't be the only person with this kind of problem. Any advice that some of you A/V gurus can offer would be greatly appreciated! The cheaper the better, here... as I don't use it all that much. :) Thanks!
Topic by JesterPoet | last reply
first, i thought that if some electronics said -X V, it was just GND, but then i saw both in the same circuit, so what's the difference? and how can you use -12V
Question by godofal | last reply
how do i safely remove and repair the 12 volt converter in my rv. both posts are very loose, and overheating a little. ( 100 degrees to touch. ) i need to remove both threaded posts with out getting zapped and replace/resolder the connections. can you help ? thanks!
Topic by redwoodschef | last reply
I have a difficult entrance into garage and want to use an orange 9-33v DC LED as a marker light when the garage door is opened. I would like to be able to connect the marker LED to the 3.3v LED that comes on when the garage door is opened. This is on a timer, so I envisage both the garage door LED and the marker LED switching on/off when the remote is activated.
Question by PeteH34 | last reply
I have a 80 w solar panel on my caravan, wired to a 12 v leisure battery 110 amp. my question is how do I get a 12 v dehumidifier to run for 2 or 3 hours per day on a timer. unable to run continuous as not enough solar power yet as it is still winter. I have a basic knowledge in electronics. I have not got 240 v available any help would be welcome thanks in anticipation.
Question by cossiem | last reply
Question by kameshalee79 | last reply
My power supply says it can supply 12 Volts @ 10 amps. It used to power 2 linear actuators drawing max 4.6 amps each, but no longer does. It still supplies 12V measured by multimeter. Is there an easy way to figure out how many amps it now supplies?
Question by thisisted | last reply
I have a small set of Christmas lights that will not come on. With my multimeter I tested the fuses, several light sockets (the one closest to the plug, the one furthest away, and one closer to the middle), and the female plug on the end. I'm getting 120v coming out of the female plug, the sockets are providing between 2v and 4v, and the fuses provide almost no resistance, and the filaments are visibly intact. What's wrong?
Question by C18H21NO4 | last reply
I've just purchased 100 leds for ten pounds. Woo. Just about to heat up my soldering iron, and BUGGER. I realised that instead of buying 100 ultra bright white leds, I've bought 100 ultra bright U.V. leds. (No wonder they were so bloody cheap!) I need ideas for a project. I suppose I could just make a big assed black light and rave the night away while getting a healthy dose of arc eye, but where's the fun in that...?
Question by roadieflip | last reply
For efficiency has anyone tried the ZipLinq X2 model universal charger coupled to the Gomadic retractable cord with tip #37 for the Creative Zen V+. It seemed like a nice setup except it doesn't work.I also tried to use it for my Motorola Pebl and Razr with tip #28. No Joy. Wish someone would try and comment. GomadicZiplinq
Topic by BatRat | last reply
How do i wire a lm3914 so that led1 lights when signal is 10v led 2 when sig is 10.05v and 3 when 10.1.... until 10.5v
Question by 12V | last reply
I bought a guy fawkes mask, it's that cheap one. I am pretty sure these are the only ones available at any ease. Anyhow I am wondering if there is anyway I can reinforce the plastic/make the mask more sturdy. As well what would be the best way to cut this plastic, I tried with a sharp xacto knife and it would ruin it more then anything else (trying to make the mouth larger) Thanks
Topic by emilysnake | last reply
I have a hisnese 20-ish inch tv that is about 6 years old. It started having a problem about a year and a half ago where it randomly turned itself on and changed channels on its own. I opened it up and dusted it out (not much dust) and messed with the settings a bit and vola it worked. Well, then a few months ago it started up again. I dusted it out (not really anything) and it still had the problems. Then I just unplugged it and let it sit for a month. I tried it out and it worked fine for the past two months or so. Well, it started having the problems again and I dusted it out (really nothing) and it had no effect. Anyone know what I should do other than pay someone to fix it?
Question by TOCO | last reply
I need to source delrin v-groove wheels complete with bearings for a project I am working on. Can anyone recommend a manufacturer or supplier that can supply these? I can source in US but delivery to Northern Ireland is very expensive so a UK or European source would be ideal. Thank for all your suggestions.
Topic by patmonag
A while ago i got tired of vista so i upgraded/downgraded to XP one of the best choices i have made. but since then i have not been able to add music to my zen v plus. i dont have the installation disk anymore and every time i connect my zen the computer says new hardware found but my computer cant recognize MTP devices. i have Windows Media Player 11 installed, and i have tried finding a solution on Google with no results.
Topic by chrischavez | last reply
I saw this on another forum, I thought it would be fun here.Just post your CTRL + V. (Also your Paste option)Even if it is embarrasing, post it.Here is mine:http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/entertainment/6735631.stmIts Paris Hilton going back to jail, I was sharing it with a friend.
Topic by Brennn10 | last reply
Hi! A while ago, i made an A/V selector, and it worked quite well. It had a small design issue, which is, having the ports at the front, where the switches are, and I want to upgrade it a little bit. The idea is, put on the front the switches with a LED on each input, and when I switch the selected input, the selected LED will also light. I've been looking around, and the A/V voltages are around 1 volt. The switch I have, it can handle 3 circuits at the same time (Video, Left and Right) but it has 3 rows as a conmutator or something. The thing is, i need your help in order to connect the LED. I've been thinking about using the unused row of the switch, but I don't know how, or, place a transistor when the Video input comes across the switch, but I don't know what kind of transistor will do. Thanks in advance I attach a diagram of what is now, with 5 inputs, showing only 2 of them, to have a brief idea
Topic by jimmytvf | last reply
Can I get a W00T for summer??? Now that summer is here I have had a bit of extra time to dedicate to my gun building, and I have completed my Semi Auto. The Kinetic Last Stand is a small, compact semi auto rifle that utilizes 4-shot low cap removable mags and has a firing mechanism that originated from Louis XIV's semi auto, just a bit more complex. My idea of this has been around since christmas when I posted pictures of my first attempt of this gun, however It required too much energy to pull the trigger that was necessary, and so I created the V.2, which uses a simpler, more efficient trigger that allows you to utilize the energy of 2 #64's with little effort. The only downside is the mag capacity, which can be improved by a about 1.5 for every half moon connector that the mag, and in turn, stock, is extended. Thats about it...the video will demonstrate just how impressive this gun is. Maxed out means the maximum amount of power I would use for a war for the sake of keeping a high rate of fire. Let me know what you think!
Topic by Kinetic | last reply
Here it is: the bullpup, tube mag, bolt-action, pump-action, sling semi-repeater. This is by far my most favorite gun I have ever built. The reason I call it a "semi-repeater" is because while it has a magazine, loading it involves a two-step process of pulling back the rubber band and then pulling the pump. Therefore you don't have to load each individual bullet into the barrel by hand, the pump does that for you, but the band still has to be pulled back manually. The gun was originally intended to have the pump bull back the band as well, but to do so the pullback distance would have to be greater, requiring a larger barrel to house a longer pullback, requiring pieces I just don't have. When I get the pieces I am going to make the pump pull the band back, and I will post that as the V.2. What I love about this gun is that it takes many concepts and combines them to work in sync with one another. I also like the fact that there is almost no limit to how powerful you can make this gun, since the ratchet can hold an incredible amount of tension. Overall it is an incredible gun, averaging ~60ft with the 1 band used in the video. Though it isn't the most reasonable choice for a war (it only holds 4 shots in the mag and is huge), it is well on its way to becoming the most efficient knex repeater out there. -Kinetic iMovie wrecks.
Topic by Kinetic | last reply
I have one, and it's going to be worse then useless after the DTV switch, so I was thinking it might be nice to be able to set it up for game systems, like if the tv's being used and I wanna play GCN or something.
Question by SenaCat | last reply
I sware i was preparing for electrolysis experiment with my psu and i touched metal case of psu with my hands wet, and it was zapping me with electricity but not to high..........why? P.S: I used grounded cable everything is okay with ground in house, Before when i used it and touched it with dry hands it didnt zap me. I used it always before. But why isnt ground 0V.
Question by h0meIandsecurity | last reply
I'm a General Manager at a hotel and have worked at a number of different hotels through the years. Every place I've ever worked there is always a huge bin of long lost cell phone chargers. We've looked at donating them to charities but haven't found anyone in need or a use for them. I've used some in the past for projects. Is there any other uses for these or a place that people could use them. As a service to our guests we always keep a few around for the guests that forgot theirs at home but we always have more then we would ever use for that purpose.
Topic by dag4415 | last reply
Hello fellow iblers’! I’m JonnyBGood and today I decided to post a review of the SRV3 concept. Be sure to note that this is not KILLERK’s official version but a close knock-off. I did not use the same bands or the exactly same mech. I also did not make side covers or the monopod so don’t judge his version based on my model. I also never shot it outdoors so ranges are a complete guess, but I will say KILLERK’s ranges are very believable since I witnessed them at Knex War 2013. So now with all that gibberish out of the way what exactly am I reviewing? Well I’m reviewing the concept, the ratchet mech, trigger mech, and any other part that contributes to the guns function and ergonomics. Okay so now let’s start with the ratchet… Ratchet- After the first use of the gun, I couldn’t imagine trying to load the gun without it. I did try loading it without using it and ended up spontaneous launching it in random directions, something you don’t want to happen with a gun this powerful. (Luckily the wall I hit was cement) The ratchet concept is really what makes the gun usable for people of any age, height or strength so I definitely think KILLERK did a great job designing this feature. Trigger- Well I willingly admit this part is the most different from KILLERK’s version, but it does rely on the same concept of the round being held in by a clamping force. I was actually the most concerned about how this would work because to me holding back a force that could send a yellow rod through a door with a clamp didn’t quite make sense to me. I will saw after building it I now don’t doubt the clamps capability to hold the round, and now it also makes sense as to why he used a clamp. The clamp trigger mech allows for a very light trigger pull due to the pivot point being so close to the ammo, so the slightest pull moves the clamp up. SRV-3 trigger is definitely one of those surprising concepts, being that the most powerful gun on instructible’s has one of the lightest trigger pulls I have ever used. Random other things- The ratchet and trigger were the two concepts which to me stood out the most for the SRV-3 concept but there are many other things about the gun which I will cover here. The Handle- So surprisingly enough it is actually pretty comfy, and it’s mainly built to hold the heaviest knex gun I have ever built. On the other hand, I wouldn’t try lifting this gun by just the handle, but why would you? You are definitely not going to akimbo these things unless maybe the handles were moved more toward the front of the gun, and then held like an RPG, but again why would you even want to akimbo or hold it with one hand? It’s a sniper rifle! The Dimensions and some other random things- Alright I bring dimensions up here because I think it’s one thing to see pictures and another to actually know how big this is. If you stand it on end it’s about six feet tall and it’s a yellow rod wide, so ten layers wide. (if you filled in the center which you would not do). Again as I ranted about earlier this is what makes this gun so heavy but it’s required for the amount of power it’s capable of. You would also add another two layers if you wanted to make it more presentable so it could be 12 layers wide if you want it to be. Another thing that I noticed on my version was that the gun bows toward the end. Granted I’m not sure as to why or if I was missing a support somewhere but it wasn’t a problem just something I noticed. The only other thing I was planning on reviewing the accuracy but if anything was relevant it is that I suck at shooting accurately! XD I can’t even shoot guns I build accurately so, a guy who is much better at creating coverfire, will not be giving an accuracy score. I will say the sights allowed me to shoot a 8 ½ by 11 sheet of paper from ten to twenty feet relatively easily, so they do help. In conclusion I would recommend you build the SRV-3 if you have the pieces for it. I would especially recommend it if you haven’t built one of KILLERK’S SR’s before because the power will blow you away. It is deffinitlly the king of the slingshot platform for now and probably until an SRV-4. ( I apologize for the poor picture quality but it would not fit in my normal picture taking spot and there's still too much snow outside for outdoor pictures. Sorry!)
Topic by JonnyBGood | last reply
I am building a r/c tank and i am using 30 1.2v 3A rechargeable nimh batteries. now i have tried charging them individually in my energizer battery charger, but they seem to get extremely hot (75 celcius) when i charge them for 2 hours. now in the tank i have these batteries in 3 battery packs that hold 10 batteries each and i want to know, if i put a 12 volt 400-500ma current through the battery pack, will that safely charge them without damaging them? recently i tested one of the hot nimh batteries out of the charger with my multimeter, and it read that the battery had 10.28 amps in it and had1.2 volts which is anbormal (exept for the voltage).also i was wondering, is it posible tocharge these packs which once run in parrell give a voltage and current of this (10X 1.2 =12 volt 3A) X 3 packs in parrell =12v 9A can i chareg all of those at the same time, or must i charge one pack at the same time now before you say anything ill just add that these are individual batteries that i have placed inside a battery holder pack, also ill add that i wont buy a sla battery as ive used quite alot of money on these batteries already and lastly, i am not going to go buy a 10 battery charger as they cost way too much, unless sopmeone can find one online that costs under $25
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
Have a Shimano front wheel with hub dynamo. It generates 6 V DC, voltage regulated. I want to convert some ready to use LED gadgets for illuminating the bike and the road during these dark days. Many of them use 3 button cells or AA(A) batteries. A small circuit board in the head light (have a huge motorcycle front armature ready) must convert the voltage. When I look for a 'buck puck', it seems that this lowering step is too small for what's available. true or not???
Question by BobS | last reply
We're so excited to announce that the Epilog Challenge is back for its fifth year! We've teamed up with Epilog to give you the opportunity to win a fantastic Zing 16 Laser, power tools, and Instructables prize packs. Epilog Challenge V is open April 15th through July 15th - so you've got a long time to build something awesome. We can't wait to see what you make! Head to the Epilog Challenge V contest page to get all the details.
Topic by jessyratfink | last reply
The motor is very powerful. It runs off of 120 V AC. The cable that plugs into the wall runs electricity straight to the motor. It weighs about 3-4 pounds and has brushes. It has alot of torque. So much so that it will flip in the air to ~1.5 feet when it is first started. I believe it spins at perhaps 2000-3000 rpm though I'm not sure. This motor was the motor that powers suction in the vacuum cleaner. I would love if someone could tell me if I could either use it as an alternator (for pedal power electricity generation) or what I could use it as a motor for?
Question by cdubnbird | last reply
I have an extra DeWalt 18 volt DC saw. I want to know how it would work if I wired it to a 12volt auto battery charger directly. I want to use it to make a slow speed saw, with a diamond saw to cut large pieces of glass. If my ideea works I'll submit it for an instructable project. As you can tell I am electronically chalanged, but I an in theropy for it(electronics for dummies] Thanks for any input jrags
Topic by jrags | last reply
Can I charge my psp with 6 volts (aka 4xaa) ? even though its only supposed to have 5v....Or do I have to go to the source ( what used to be radio shack in Canada ) and find a regulator. If so what little digits should be on it ? and would any of the following regulators work ? AN6541 IRL3103 ( I already have them I ripped them of of old mobos) To explain I lost my wall charger and usb charge don't work unless its on..... and the battery is dead
Topic by littlechef37 | last reply
Umm, i just found this website called antics3d.com, and the software that used to be able to be downloaded for free, you now have to have a registered email from befor the site closed back in 08. i just found the website today, so i dont have a registered email. i am hoping that if somebody has a registered email, they would let me use it to download the new antics v5.1 and content pack. i have already checked the torrent sites i know about, but if you have a registered email or torrent site that you know offers antics, or even are willing to send me the setup exe, please private message me telling me where to get it. thanks!
Topic by A.C.E. | last reply
Hi, I would like to make a lightbox and charge it from a Solar cell . I saw a 5v ledstrip online , but I am wondering wich battery and wich Solar cell I have to buy? I mean how much voltage en watt does this ledstrip need? Wich diode do I need? Another question: I want the Solar cell to charge during the day and I need it's power during the night , do I have to do something special with it ? I mean in the most cases you will have the energie richt away, that is not my plan .... I rather not use an on and of switch , I want to use it automaticaly. I just started with the diy adventure? Forgive me :) greetings deborah
Topic by DeborahM8 | last reply