Hi fellow iblershas anyone ever made a vacuum pump for a vacuum chamber out of an aquarium air pump before? Does it pull a good enough vacuum if you modify it? please respond someone. Thanks
Question by Disasterific | last reply
Some time back, it occurred to me that a sufficiently strong vacuum would be useful for drying wet electronics. After all, water boils at lower temps at higher elevations, and in space, water will even boil at 33F ( 1 C) Freeze-drying coffee is another example of using high vacuum to desicate stuff. I hooked up a vacuum pump which had been marketed for bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches to a pressure chamber for extending the life of tennis balls. It did not seem to work when I tried rapid drying a damp paper towel. Indeed, my control, another paper towel left out at room temps dried before the one in the vacuum chamber. I think I've heard of repurposing a refrigeration pump to act as a vac-pump. Someday, I may try that, but would prefer not to have to deal with the freon. Besides that, if someone is scrapping a fridge, and I can pick it up free, will the pump be any good?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
Im having trouble generating any kind of plasma and i guess not fully understanding this. Heres my setup: A metal pot with a Plexiglas lid as vacuum chamber. a pressure gauge on top A vacuum chamber A MOT as the power supply. Dont have equipment to measure high voltage but id guess around 2KVAC as thats what i understand is standard Two terminals about 2 inches apart inside of the chamber made from copper. one coming from the top, one from the bottom. I hook up the terminals , hear the nice MOT buzz, but nothing happens inside of the chamber. The mot has been tested and does work. Any clue or direction to point me in?
Question by GalaxyX | last reply
Does anybody know how to go about recreating the Casimir effect outside a lab? Say I have a vacuum chamber and two copper plates. I want to create the Casimir effect within the vacuum chamber, Only problem is that to do so, from my understanding, I'd have to have the copper plates within nanometers of each other, I've heard of methods using oscillating crystals...can anyone help me?
Question by ted_gress | last reply
Can the average milk crate (actual milk crates, not the cheapie wallmart 'back to school' crates) withstand at least 20PSI on all sides? I'm intending to use one as the support structure of a vacuum chamber.
Question by The Ideanator | last reply
I am creating a vacuum chamber with an acrylic tube that is 4 inches in diameter and 1/4 of an inch thick. How would I determine the pressure limits of my pipe? Is there a formula for pipes of arbitrary size and materials? Much thanks.
Question by TheIronHobo | last reply
I am trying to make an chamber to examine the growth of a micro organism in the above condition. The chamber temp. should be maintained at 95-100 C and. The environment should be tends to vacuum(Vacuum condition is practically impossible). Please help in choosing the material and conditioning the same.
Question by dashinfoline | last reply
Using metallurgical powders with a precision depositing feeder, layout a layer at a time (obviously) of the part you want to develop within a certain size parameter. Lower the layer into an induction heater coil to raise the temperature of the powder to just below the melting point then hit it with a low power laser to melt the powder together to make the part, again layer by layer. Theoretically removing the need for high power lasers and either a vacuum chamber running constantly or a constant stream of shielding gas. Edit: You apply a vacuum or shielding gas only during the fusion cycle, hence the induction furnace. Removes the need for expensive vacuum chambers or heavy use of shielding.
Question by malleolus | last reply
I made a vacuum chamber out off a mason jar, and attempted to infuse wood with food dye, using a brake bleeding vacuum pump. The results were no better than if I painted the dye on. All I got out of it was blue fingers (next time I will use rubber gloves). Anybody got any suggestions?
Topic by WazIt | last reply
The member guof8dsa9 is spamming my comments with ads and i don't know how to get rid of it. I don't mind if someone is giving relevant information but this has nothing to do with my instructable Simple DIY Vacuum Chamber and Pump is the name of the instructable.
Topic by bassman76jazz | last reply
-A vacuum chamber, preferably in a spherical shape -A roughing vacuum pump capable of reaching at least 75 microns vacuum -A secondary high vacuum pump, either a turbo pump or oil diffusion pump -A high voltage supply, preferably capable of at least 40kv 10ma - Must be negative polarity -A high voltage divider probe for use with a digital multimeter -A thermocouple or baratron (of appropriate scale) vacuum gauge -A neutron radiation detector, either a proportional He-3 or BF3 tube with counting instrumentation, or a bubble dosimeter -A Geiger counter, preferably a scintillator type, for x-ray detection and safety -Deuterium gas -A large ballast resistor in the range of 50-100k and at least a foot long -A camera and TV display for viewing -Lead shielding
Question by garagegenius | last reply
After finding out my favourite catch of a good fishing day won't fit into any normal foodsealer bag or tube I wasted a few hours thinking about the problem.... These normal food sealers are like an injet printer - you pay the real price through the consumables. And with those I already noticed cheap only too often means bad quality unless you got the bargain price for ordering in bulk. My favourite kebab shop has a big commercail sealer that is used for packing stuff for other stores and catering. So I ordered a fresh and extra spicy kebab and asked if it would be possible to take a closer look on this sealer thing they use. No problem for a good customer like me but of course I was asked to finnish my kebab first and to use the provided gloves if I want to touch anything - freshly sanitised and so on.... I was surprised by two facts: a) the price of close to 5grand b) the simplicity of the thing Was not allowed to take pictures, so sorry for that as this time I really wanted some. From what I could gather without taking it apart is that 3mm stainless steel is used for a big "pan". About 80cm long, 50wide and 30 high. On the outside several pieces of square tubing, most likely to prevent warping under a high vacuum, although 3mm stainless already takes a lot. The lid was 5mm stainless with several thick viewing windows in it to check the correct placement and sealing action. Of course I am not really planning to go that big, for now anyway..... For the inside there were several frames available to cater for pots, bags, loose stuff and so on. Purpose of these frames was to make sure the bag used will be held with the open end inside the sealing section. The heating element or strip was on the floor of the pan and a push bar was mounted to the lid to give the desired pressure once the lid is locked in place. Time for the actual heat sealing of the bag is started with two switches on the locking clamps. The top bar is mounted with two springs, I assume to allow for just enough pressure for the air to be sucked out of the bag while still performing a good seal during the heating. Getting suitable parts can be as easy as to salvage an old vacuum sealer and to use a frying pan or as "complicated" as building one from scratch with a powerful vacuum pump or old fridge compressor - I like the second better ;) But after a few Instructables and still several in the making I thought the old thing of "group therapy" would be nice for this one. We are from all over world and certainly not everything I can get around the corner is available for someone from the remote areas of India or South America. And I am almost certain that someone might have a great idea on what common and easy to obtain stuff can be used for the vacuum chamber for example. Another one might already have a heating wire solution for the sealing that is cheap and reliable. You get the picture.... Why would I want to do this with several people from all over the world, maybe even fighting language problems? The benefits are there is you look for them ;) With a limited set of "rules" on certain areas of the project we get the benefit of: a) Having an instant proove of concept with actually working devices for our readers. b) A much greater chance that anyone can repeat the success at home and with already several working designs to choose from. c) A chance of actually "working" together on something with some of the great people here! d) Something new that is not a contest or challange. e) Hopefully a lot of fun on the way :) Of course and in the case this actually catches on, it would be great to somehow create a collection for this project. Like when you add several Ibles to your collection but so everyone who made one can add it. So anyone up for it?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
I started this project about a week ago after seeing the Instructable Ã¢â¬â€ https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-strikeheliostatstrike-paraboliI made mine out of cardboard and then coated the cardboard Ã¢â¬â€ front and back Ã¢â¬â€ with fiberglass resin for stiffness. I covered the inside with tinfoil to test it out and find the focal point. It worked great with the focal point at the center of the dish even with the lip of the curve. I then removed the tinfoil and replaced the tinfoil with mirrored Plexiglas. Now it works awesome. I have a 30Ã¢â¬ï¿½ parabolic mirror that can ignite wood almost instantaneously at the focal point of the light.Next I constructed the heating coil to run water through. This is made from a large 1 Kg coffee can, 16Ã¢â¬â¢ of ÃÂ¼Ã¢â¬ï¿½ copper tubing with end fittings, and the glass lid of a small sauce pan (handle removed). The outside of the coffee can is painted flat black as is the copper pipe. The copper pipe is coiled to a coil 4Ã¢â¬ï¿½ in diameter and 6Ã¢â¬ï¿½ in length and inserted inside the can with the ends extending from the side of the can through two drilled holes. The inside of the can is not painted, but left shiny. The glass lid is then taped over the hole with aluminum metal tape covering a minimum amount of the glass Ã¢â¬â€ about 1/4Ã¢â¬ï¿½ around the edge.The coffee can is then suspended over the mouth of the parabolic mirror by a three point 6Ã¢â¬ï¿½ chimney pipe stand-off. The canÃ¢â¬â¢s mouth is centered at the focal point of the mirror so all of the light being reflected by the mirror must enter the coffee can. Hoses are hooked up to the copper pipe fittings and these lines go to the feed/storage tank.The problem with the conventional set up from here is that the speed the water moves at (slow) to be heated to a great degree causes such great loses through convection, this system is not really feasible. I propose a new idea Ã¢â¬â€ or a new twist on an old idea.I noticed that the solar heat generating station use a black water pipe inside a glass vacuum tube to generate heat from the sun for heating water. I said to myself that this is a great idea and plan on building the next heating coil in a vacuum chamber. But, I also came up with the idea that the if the water is heated in this manner, why canÃ¢â¬â¢t it be transferred to the storage tank in a similar manner.If the feed lines were suspended inside a larger outer line and the outer line sealed tight and vacuumed the heat transfer due to convection would be almost nil. I estimated that with a total convective area at 100% the use of plastic stand-offs (8 @1/8Ã¢â¬ï¿½ thick over 12Ã¢â¬â¢) the convective area would be reduced to 0.6%. Unbelievable! Even if this rose to 5% it is far beyond anything in use today by the home owner. Stretches of pipe going 100s of meters would no longer be un-heard of. You could place the dish in a close by field away from the trees and house and pump the heat back without losing it to the ground.This would also work for outdoor wood furnaces if use today. An outer pipe could be added over the existing pipe work, sealed, and vacuumed Ã¢â¬â€ almost all heat lose would be gone. And much larger stretches of pipe could be used here also. They would no longer need one furnace for the barn and another for the house. With this system, the pipes could even be run above ground, if desired, in some cases.This could also be used to replace insulation on cooling lines also.The key to the system is minimal contact between the inside and outside lines, and the vacuum between the two lines. Remember, there is no transfer of heat through convention within a vacuum, because there is no air for the heat to transfer through.As with all the new ideas this could get costly depending on the scale of piping you are dealing with Ã¢â¬â€ but the savings from reduced heat lose will far out way these cost in the near future.I may get an Instructable out for the Energy efficiency contest, but will be hard pressed.
Topic by strmrnnr | last reply
Hi all! I've being thinking on how to get off grid for a while now, in the first stage to use solar power to get the energy bills go down and in second place to get my stamp on earths energy consumption, using my house in a greener way. So solar energy and wind energy are on my mind, but recently i started to think about more possibilities. Like using my crawlspace to work for me. Maybe its posible to make a wind turbine underneath the house, or use the constant temperature to cool my house during summer. I've seen plans on the internet ( and cant find them anymore... ) about using a sort off vacuum chamber that has a constand wind flow comming in, trough a system of pipes that drive a wind turbine inside. The idea is that, because of the vacuum effect, you need only a small gust of wind to power the turbine. Where i live theres always wind, sometime a little, sometimes waaay to much. The crawlspace i have isnt that high, about 50CM in hight, and during the Fall and Winter months theres a high level of water, about 25CM. Durring summer its mostly muddy sand, so there's stil a lot off cool water trapt in there. So about the idea on cooling my house, how about a water cooling system that runs trough the house? How would you guys make such systems, have you already tryed this out, and are there some enthousiastic folks out there willing to go all the way and show these idea's are doable, so everyone can make it??? Hope to hear from you soon ;-) Greets, Arie
Topic by AriedeB | last reply
Hey guys, Over the years I've collected a fair amount of glassware other junk from various institutions. Unfortunately, my preoccupations as such don't permit as much time to pursue my hobbies. However, I'm abroad now, and will be until mid-December, so I can't actually supply much more info than generalizations about the materials. If anyone's interested in hearing more, reply on this thread or message me. Also unsure about some of the fitting sizes. To my knowledge I'm pretty sure I have: 1 - Allihn Condensor 2 - 1L Round bottom boiling flasks sv. - 500ml Round bottom boiling flasks 4 - VariACs 2/3 - Cases of 15ml glass screw-top vials 2/3 - Cases of 15ml plastic screw-top vials many - Ground glass stoppers many - Ground glass neck bottles (apothecary style!) 3 - Glass retorts 1 - 5L Glass carboy with broken outlet nozzle 1 - Drying chamber with vacuum attachment 100's - 15/30 ml glass tubes They'll be shipped from New England; only domestic inquiries please.
Topic by Cat on my Lap | last reply
So I saw this post here and I too am feeling creative and wanting to make a portable HERF gun powerful enough to make a ripe piece of fruit explode within less than 1 second. So here's some ideas about how this thing works: 1. The device would use a an appropriately sized vacuum magnetron with an electromagnet The current fed to the magnetron's electromagnet would be a rectified sine wave at the resonant frequency(oscillating current flowing in but not out of the electromagnets coils). The purpose of this technique is to use resonance to turn the magnetron into an amplifier as well as an oscillator so it functions as a maser of sorts(not sure if this has ever been done before). 2. This thing is going to need a lot of power, and I have a solution: pneumatic electricty. The electricity would be produced by means of a high speed electric motor with permanent magnets(which can act as a generator)that is capable of spining several hundred RPM without frying itself. This genemotor would be driven by a turbine spun by by outflow from a cylinder containing compressed air. When the trigger is pulled, the cylinder valve opens and the air is released into a small turbine chamber and then expelled out an exhaust tube extending out the back of the gun. My 1st choice of material for the gas canister is titanium since it has to be both compact and capable of storing compressed air at up to 1000psi(or above). But the big unknowns are a)how much power will be needed to suplly the magnetron and the RF oscillator/rectifier, b) how fast the generator will need to rotate to produce that power ,c) how much pressure is necessary in the compressed air canister, and d)what material I will need the canister to be made of. Any suggestions? Thoughts? Comments?
Question by YugZ0h0th | last reply