Hi fellow iblershas anyone ever made a vacuum pump for a vacuum chamber out of an aquarium air pump before? Does it pull a good enough vacuum if you modify it? please respond someone. Thanks
Question by Disasterific | last reply
Today I was dumpster diving and i found an old vacuum so i decided to take the pump out but i made the mistake of not checking what voltage the vacuum runs on, because it also had a spinning component at the mouth of the vacuum. I think the pump works fine because i noticed that tube connecting the mouth of the vacuum and the pump was broke. Is there anyway to find out what voltage it runs on? would standard 120 be ok?The markings on it say 81 b-9 ECP 6500-240 HPU+ 60hz HD10 120 vac 07:07 does that mean it will work off a standard 120 outlet?update: What I am going to do with this motor has been decided. I will be attaching it to the back wheel of my bike with a car battery, i will install some type of switch on the handlebar or add something like a dimmer switch, this would allow me to have the motor on if i want, and i can adjust the speed. Please help fine tune this idea.
Topic by astrozombies138 | last reply
I have a theory: You have your supply of compressed air. You connect that by hose to one branch of a y-connector. The other branch is connected to a hose that goes into some sort of fluid that you want to move from one vessel to another. The trunk of the y is your exhaust (in theory). So now I give, say, 15 psi out of my air supply and that shoud drag my fluid out of its vessel through the y connector to the destination of my choosing. Would that work?
Topic by flagrantfouler | last reply
I'm looking for a vacuum pump for use with projects like the fusor included in make magazine, a laser tube, or a plasma ball. It doesn't need to move huge amounts of air, but nothing below 1.5 lpm. It also needs to have an ultimate vacuum of at most 25 microns. I have been unable to locate any pumps which meet these standards, all of them have ultimate vacuums of around 100 to 75 microns or are completely unlisted. Do any of you have some experience with these and some advice. I don't need something for pumping out heating/cooling units daily, just a very deep vacuum a couple times a month.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
I recently obtained a Vacuum pump from the school (they got it from like a barn or something where it was sitting for like 10 years, so it needed a lot of cleaning, lot of dirt). I'm not sure how strong it is, but it is powered by a 1/2 HP motor (the same motor that I got earlier, I'm just now using the Vacuum pump) and uses pullies to make the torque more around 2HP. Couple of Questions: -It works (I'm not sure how well, if you put your hand over the output and give the pulley a 1/4 rotation turn it generates a noticeable amount of sunction (and sounds like an opening bottle of wine when you take your hand off). -What usually goes bad with old pumps, can I prevent it? -I should probably change the oil, is there a cheap local way of getting some (like some sort of auto oil?) -Do you think there's enough suction to create a vacuum tube. (doesn't have to be precision made, it's for Tesla Coils, think large Vacuum Tubes)
Topic by guyfrom7up | last reply
I have a new idea about a new type of positive displacement vacuum pump. Its of the piston variety, but instead of a one way valve which doesn't work when the pressure gets low enough, another piston is used to act as a valve switching between the vessel to be evacuated (when the main piston is pulling a vaccum) and the atmosphere (when the piston pushes the air evacuated out). This solves the one way valve problem. Could this pull a much lower vacuum? I need a fairly strong vacuum, but I don't want to have to build/buy a turbomolecular pump. Also, i have a metal lathe, that's why i'm going with the piston variety.
Topic by guyfrom7up | last reply
Was too lazy to do an Instructable about it and think a lot of pics or even videos won't help much if you know what I mean ;) Some of us use rotary vane pumps not for the purpose of evacuating refrigeration systems but for all sorts of fun and experiments. This means quite soon or often we face the problem of the oil taking in a lot of water or even worse particles and solvent fumes. I don't know about you but I was getting sick and tired of replacing the expensive oil every few weeks or sometimes even days if something got too wrong. There are many different blends of compressor oil out there that will work very well in our rotary vane pumps. The main difference is whyt the oil is designed for. Some are perfect for aircon systems, others for the work with solvent fumes and there are even those special oils that bind moisture. Unless you really need to evacuted special gases or solvents basically any low viscosity oil will do us just fine! So instead of paying 20 bucks for special compressor or even vacuum pump oil we can select the cheap everyday oil. Well, not exactly... We also want to be able to recycle our oil to save even more money. That means we don't want an oil that binds to water to keep it out of harms way. We also don't want any oil that has special coating abilities for example these oils claiming to reduce wear and tear on your engine. But any other low viscosity mineral oil or if you prefer synthetic oil will do - just stay away from silicone based oils!! If you have not used your pump for a few days you can often see a slude at the bottom of the viewing glass. If the rest of the oil is clear you can simply drain this worst bit and top up with fresh oil if required. This simple procedure saves you a lot of oil already, at least if your pump has some rest every now and then. Once your oil looks wasted it is time for the recycling and cleaning: Release the oil into a high glass jar or these facy spaghetti glasses. Fill with fresh oil and give it a short run. Release this oil as well and wait for it to properly drain. You now have the inside of your pump nice and clean again, time to fill one last time with fresh oil to keep using the pump. The filthy oil we now have in our jar should be covered with some fine cloth or filter paper and placed somewhere warm. After a week or two the oil, filth and water will have seperated and you pump, drain or siphon out the now clean oil for further use. Don't be too exact here trying to get all the oil out, just remove what you can without risking to suck in the filth from the bottom. Simply leave the rest in the jar and add the next oil change to it for the same recycling process. Solvents.... In some cases we will work with solvents and that means the oil might bind to them. Acetone for example is quite nasty here and can change the oil itself by breaking down certain components. In most cases it means the viscosity will be reduced, which is not really too bad for us. What is bad however is the fact that these solvents often refuse to fully seperate or evaporate. Once the oil looks clean do a smell test and if it smells like solvent then for sure there is solvent in it. Next step to confirm is to do a lube test. Simply place on some smooth metal or glass and smear it with your finger - a drop is enough here. If it feels sticky on the surface, gives you a rubber like feeling when sliding over the surface or is far less "slippery" than the fresh oil you also have a problem. I found that filling this contaminated oil into a proper container and applying a strong vacuum will remove all solvent residue in a very short time. Downside is that the oil in the pump is contaminated again, so it pays off to collect solvent contaminated oil seperately and once you got enough for several refills use the pump to get rid of the solvent. When done do another smear and smell test, if still smelly repeat if no longer smelly but still the same bad feeling on the surface: Discard as the oil might be broken down by the solvent.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
There are three little black metal pieces keeping the motor housing closed. I'm not sure how to remove them. I think the on/off switch on the pump got bent and I would like to simply fix that part. But I can't get to it because the housing is closed with these pieces. Any help would be appreciated.
Question by jrrm | last reply
I'm trying to attach an AC adapter to a 12-volt tire inflation pump (the kind that plugs into your car's cigarette lighter), then convert it into a vacuum pump for degassing molds. I tried connecting the only 12 volt wall wart I have and it just barely got the motor moving. I'm guessing that the amperage of the adapter is too low. What sort of amps would this unit need to run correctly? Is it even possible to run this thing from a wall outlet?
Topic by Boy Genius | last reply
Hey all - Wanted intructable: "Convert an Aquarium Air Pump into a Vacuum Pump" I know this is pretty simple - probably... as well to add to that a mod... "Convert a Aquarium Air Pump into an Adjustable Vacuum Pump" I'm trying to build something else and would like to see how this is done - i have one shot at one Aquarium air pump and don't want to mess it up. Plus i'd like to know how to regulate the vacuum - make it with adjustable vacuum pressure if possible - if i even really need to or at least regulate the vacuum pressure so it is not too much if it is after built. I'm sure i could do a google and find all the parts - thinik tank it out and build it... but if you know already how to do it - makes things a tad easier for me. The instrucable even easier to avoid mistakes. thanx - chase -
Topic by -chase- | last reply
Long story short, I'm looking to make a vacuum forming table, and have most of the thing designed. However, I am looking to use two (maybe three) cheap vacuum pumps until I have the money to get a decent vacuum pump. I know that the pumps (4 CFM) if stuck in parallel will get me roughly 8 CFM, however, what will that do to the PSI? The pumps have a 90 PSI pull (if thats the right phasing to it) and I'm unsure what grade of pip/tubing to get for this. Thanks in advance!!
Question by DoctorWoo | last reply
Hey Everyone... I'm Alive! I've just been really busy with my senior design project :DSo today I acquired ToolUsingAnimal's vacuum pump on loan. I'm going to be doing some vacuum bagging.... To prevent his pump from blowing out, I need to make a limit switch so the pump shuts down when it reaches full vacuum and then turns back on if some of the vacuum bleeds of somewhere.So the method I cooked up today was to use a syringe with a weight. The weight will pull the syringe open and close a micro switch that turns the compressor on. If there's vacuum, the plunger will be fully retracted and the switch will be open (off position). This method will cost me all of $5 or so (10 cents for the syringe and $4 for the switch).I was just doing some math on how much weight I'll need for different syringe sizes - and it's totally plausible (we're talking less than a pound to 3 pounds depending on syringe diameter).Question - any other suggestions or blatantly obvious/easy/cheap solutions? I know this sounds Rube Golbergian, but it's not nearly as complicated as it sounds (or looks) :D Emphasis on cheap, I just put in an order for roughly $2000 of materials and supplies!
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
I recently aquired an old laboratory vacuum pump and I have been trying to locate the specs and manual for it. I've checked the manufacturers website but i can't find it. The model is N726 TTP. If anyone has a copy of it and can provide me a digital copy, i would be appreciative.
Question by cdorris | last reply
I have several antique manual piston vacuum pumps all of which need the pistons "repacked" with leather gaskets. The leather sealing gasket is specific for this type of antique pump and allows the lubricated piston and leather sealant to provide an airtight seal between the piston and the internal cylinder walls into which it inserts. The piston rod is pushed inward by way of handle which is attached to the piston rod in the cylinder. On manually pulling the handle or lever outward, and thus the piston, air is evacuated from a bell jar via tubing and a valve, the bell jar resting on a round metal plate or stage (sealed with vacuum grease) to which the tubung communicates and subsequently communicates with the pump. Upon pushing the pump lever inward (and thus the piston), air pulled into the pump cylinder on the evacuation stroke is vented to the exterior by means of a one way communication between the fore side of the piston and the aft side of the piston and to the atmosphere by way of a hole in the closed end of the piston cylinder. The cycle is repeated as necessary. Does anyone know how to repack the pistons with the required leather seals, or have a source for the leather seals, or know of a craftsman who knows how to accomplish repacking of these historical pumps (antique scientific instruments). Thank you for your attention to this matter.
Question by pm7289 | last reply
My boss cleaned out his office since he's retiring (and I'll miss him, as long as you did your job he left you alone, maybe quarterly reports, just the kind of boss I need) anyways he gave me a vacuum pump, he said its been there unused as long as he has >35years. So I thought I'd get advice before i even plug it in. It's a Curtin Matheson Scientific googleing gave me no info other than the Gast AD220 oil it requires can be substituted with sae 10 detergent oil. Anyone familiar? any advice?
Topic by Tool Using Animal | last reply
I've been wondering if I could use an air-conditioner pump for a vacuum evaporator for making concentrates without destroying some flavor for home brewing and cooking and I'm wondering if I should worry about the water vapor the comes from this. Should I set up some kind of cold trap for the water making some kinda vacuum distiller or should I use something else to drop the pressure?
Topic by sugarworm | last reply
Hey all, I just grabbed a compressor from a fridge that had been badly mangled by a bulldozer at a demolition site, planning to make a vacuum pump or airbrush compressor (or both!) Trouble is, I thought the liquid it contained was leftover refrigerant, and drained it all out. I didn't really have a choice, as leftover freon was gassing out of the compressor (thought it had lost pressure, but there was still a little in the compressor) and it was sputtering the oil everywhere. I held it upside down while carrying it home, and when I got it here, it was apparently empty. Then I found out that what I poured out wasn't liquid freon, but actually vital oil that keeps it alive. The compressor runs fine, but I only tried it for a few seconds for fear of destruction. I have many lubricants here, motor oil, 2-stroke oil, bike chain oil, etc. If I'm to dump an oil into my compressor, any ideas on which is the best call, and roughly how much should it take?
Topic by Rectifier | last reply
Some time back, it occurred to me that a sufficiently strong vacuum would be useful for drying wet electronics. After all, water boils at lower temps at higher elevations, and in space, water will even boil at 33F ( 1 C) Freeze-drying coffee is another example of using high vacuum to desicate stuff. I hooked up a vacuum pump which had been marketed for bleeding hydraulic brakes and clutches to a pressure chamber for extending the life of tennis balls. It did not seem to work when I tried rapid drying a damp paper towel. Indeed, my control, another paper towel left out at room temps dried before the one in the vacuum chamber. I think I've heard of repurposing a refrigeration pump to act as a vac-pump. Someday, I may try that, but would prefer not to have to deal with the freon. Besides that, if someone is scrapping a fridge, and I can pick it up free, will the pump be any good?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
The consumer-market vacuum sealers often have attachments for vacuum sealing canning jars, but they're mostly designed for use with bags. I have to assume that one made for canning jars only would be much more compact and take up much less counter space. There are a few i'bles around on how to use the canning-jar attachments with hand pumps - bicycle pumps or brake bleeders. But they're slow and tedious. I've search Harbor Freight for vacuum pumps, and everything I've found was way too big, and way too expensive, for this little job. Any ideas? Something that can pull .28mHg on a quart of air, in a couple of seconds, that can be plugged into a canning-jar attachment, and can be kept on a kitchen counter?
Question by jdege
Hi! my boss told me to come up with a cheap replacement for a vacuum pump and since it's needed to lift only two solar cells at a time, I thought a fan could be used to create negative pressure. The cells are really light, but since I suck at physics/fluid dynamics, I thought I'd ask if I'm way off base and if I am, is there any solution to this problem. I attached a picture of the current state of the idea.
Topic by TashaDax | last reply
I am confused as to how to wire my vacuum pump to this vacuum switch. The pump is 240 V single phase and I need it to come on at about 22 inches of mercury and shut off at about 28 inches of mercury. I have two line leads coming from the pump that need to be switched. I don't understand the diagram (first picture) that covers the connection terminals. I think if I can get it wired properly I can set the on/off points using my vacuum gauge and trial/error. Can anyone help me with this?
Topic by rmandrell59 | last reply
Hello everyone, I am new to Instructables and am loving it so far. I was reading through some literature on a piece of equipment we have at work and it requires 18"Hg @ 25CFM. We have flow gauges at work, so it is just a matter of using one to determine the flow but it got me thinking... What is the most effective method of measuring airflow of a vacuum pump without a flow gauge. All I have is an anemometer, a basic understanding of physics and time. So I came up with this method and am looking for some folks to poke holes in it: I placed the anemometer at the end of a 36" piece of PVC with a 1.6" I.D. sealing the anemometer to the PVC to ensure no air gets pulled around the fan of the anemometer. The other end of the pipe is reduced to a 1/4" line (.16" I.D.) which is connected to the vacuum pump. Turning on the vacuum pump yields a steady 3.5MPH (307.98 ft/m)on the anemometer. Doing the math, I come up with 4.3CFM (307.98ft/m*.013962634ft^2). Unfortunately, I cannot bring a gauge home from work to compare and I cannot bring my set up, as glorious as it may be. So this is more a thinking exercise. So what sort of accuracy would you guys think this 'rig' has? Can you think of some method for me to verify it's accuracy (or, more likely, lack thereof)?
Topic by mmcdonald6 | last reply
Food save vacuum pump piston connecting rod pin. Goes through piston connecting rod and into a little hole on the electric motor
Question by RonaldL30 | last reply
Hey guys, I just recently got parts to make my own magnetic stirrer and heating plate for organic chemistry! I don't very well plan on getting a glass blower oven so if you guys have any glassware somehow, please let me know. If you have old vacuums, a vacuum pump (not submersible) let me know too! thanks!!
Topic by GreenD
Hi all, I scavenged a compressor from an old fridge, and I have a couple of questions about it. It's a Tecumseh AE4ZF11 hermetic seal compressor. If you google it you can find a servicing manual, which didn't help me much but maybe you can find something useful. I basically want to use the compressor as either a vacuum pump, or an air compressor. Now for the questions: 1) This compressor has 5 (Yes, five) pipes coming out of it. One is a port for topping refrigerant, but I have no idea what the others are. They all went into the fridge. Any idea why there would be more than just one pipe going in, and one going out? 2) The control unit has been broken off before I could salvage it. According to the manual, the tree terminals are Common, Start and Operate. Is there a way to make the compressor work without buying a new control unit, or building something too complicated \ expensive?
Question by Morgantao | last reply
I have been using refrigeration compressors for many years as vacuum pumps. When I started in commercial/industrial refrigeration some 30 years ago, all the engineers in "Prestcold" Bournemouth branch made their own small portable vacuum pumps from discarded domestic refrigerators. It almost appeared to me, a newcomer to the industry, a competition of sorts to make the most practical/aesthetic unit possible.Some engineers made varnished wooden cases to house the compressor. These were ideal for all small refrigeration vacuuming requirements. My interest over the last few years has been to use these "home-made vac-pumps" to produce vacuum filled inverted aquaria. "The Romaurie-Effect" as shown on "youTube".This is an on-going project.
Topic by romaurie | last reply
Hi, I'm trying to build a simple robot gripper under a budget using this idea http://makezine.com/projects/universal-robot-gripper/. So from what I understand I need a vacuum cleaner that can change into an air blower with a flip of switch using the same nozzle. Is there any cheap option where i can make something similar? I was thinking of buying a cheap car vacuum cleaner or a cheap air pump and reverse the mode by reversing the motor polarity. Will that work? Really need a quick answer for my project, please help. Thank you!
Question by KhayhenS | last reply
-A vacuum chamber, preferably in a spherical shape -A roughing vacuum pump capable of reaching at least 75 microns vacuum -A secondary high vacuum pump, either a turbo pump or oil diffusion pump -A high voltage supply, preferably capable of at least 40kv 10ma - Must be negative polarity -A high voltage divider probe for use with a digital multimeter -A thermocouple or baratron (of appropriate scale) vacuum gauge -A neutron radiation detector, either a proportional He-3 or BF3 tube with counting instrumentation, or a bubble dosimeter -A Geiger counter, preferably a scintillator type, for x-ray detection and safety -Deuterium gas -A large ballast resistor in the range of 50-100k and at least a foot long -A camera and TV display for viewing -Lead shielding
Question by garagegenius | last reply
As in, how many mmHG would it be able to sustain consistently if there are no losses from the hose. I want to know since I want to substitute an expensive lab grade pump with something I already have if it can do the same job. I primarily intend to use it to filter water from an iron oxide powder (I want the oxide so I can try my hand at making some thermite).
Question by The Ideanator | last reply
The unit has been working well for 10 years, and suddenly now will not remove the air from the bag. The sealing feature works fine, but no suction action during the sealing process.
Question by GeorgiaS11 | last reply
Kind of like what this guy has in his instructable video: https://www.instructables.com/id/make-a-manual-vacuum-pump-for-under-$20-by-convert/ but a lot better. For my application it has to be something that can be tightened down into place. It has to seal. Also instead of a mason jar I'm using a pvc pipe.
Question by mattbliese | last reply
Im repurposing it to maybe be a vacuum pump. The outside connections fell to peices and we were going to throw it out, so I might as well recycle it.
Question by The Ideanator | last reply
I want to do some experimenting with making thermos bottles. I know that a vacuum is needed but how much? I heard that the thermal retention value only works below a certain vacuum level but I don't know what it is. any small vacuum won't do. I also would like the answer in regular terms. I found out that solar tubes use P<5x10-2Pa of vacuum. I don't know what that means in inches of vacuum. I need to know more, so that I can buy the right vacuum pump. What other equipment will I need? will a regular check valve and epoxy work for testing?
Question by M F | last reply
Hello, I am trying to figure how to make an evacuated flat plate solar thermal panel ( sort of this one: www.genersys-solar.com/downloads.asp ). Main problem so far is how to keep air out (vacuum) . What sort of o-ring should I use ? Would it be possible to use Arduino to control internal vacuum and act a vacuum pump to keep it balanced in time ?
Topic by gabdab | last reply
The grinding is being done in a tight area. A long handled grinding disc (please see picture) is being used. Only the grinding disk rotates, not the long handle. It would be best if the water lines and vacuum lines could be attached along the handle, welded? cable ties? The system needs to be portable but electricity will be available. The smaller the components, such as water reservoir, peristaltic pump, vacuum pump, vacuum holding tank, spray nozzle, tubing, the better. The material to be ground is heat sensitive so the water spray is needed for cooling.The water pump needs to be a peristaltic type pump so that the fluid is only in contact with the tubing. I will also need a way to connect the flexible tubing of the pump to a more rigid, perhaps metal fluid line along the handle.. Due to the small grinding surface, water flow does not need to be great, perhaps 20 ml per minute. The dust produced from grinding can obscure the view so a vacuum source is necessary. I welcome any suggestions on: how the system could be designed, what components I would need, where components could be purchased, how to keep costs down, etc. I greatly appreciate any guidance you can give me.
Question by jadeway | last reply
I made a vacuum chamber out off a mason jar, and attempted to infuse wood with food dye, using a brake bleeding vacuum pump. The results were no better than if I painted the dye on. All I got out of it was blue fingers (next time I will use rubber gloves). Anybody got any suggestions?
Topic by WazIt | last reply
Hi I am thinking of using a Giant 3 litre Smirnoff vodka bottle as shown in the link below: http://www.licorea.com/smirnoff-3-litros-dosificador-p-809.html?language= To make a Plasma globe but inside the bottle. I need some sort of high voltage supply and an electrode but aren't sure what else . The main Problem I can see is creating a vacuum inside the bottle . as I don't have a vacuum pump. Does anyone have any tips on how to create a vacuum inside the bottle? Also would an inert gas work instead. Any help appreciated Thanks Ben
Question by 369ben | last reply
The member guof8dsa9 is spamming my comments with ads and i don't know how to get rid of it. I don't mind if someone is giving relevant information but this has nothing to do with my instructable Simple DIY Vacuum Chamber and Pump is the name of the instructable.
Topic by bassman76jazz | last reply
I searched around and but there are 'ibles using desoldering irons and vacuum pumps; not actual soldering irons. I wanted a hot-air gun for desoldering an SMD chip.
Question by rammstein2 | last reply
I received an accordion from my dad not too long ago, it is a very old model that he received from one of his patients (he's a neurologist) who was a polka player. I've been teaching myself by ear and can play a few songs already using the keyboard side. The other side has 120 bass buttons that confuzzle me. Since the accordion is older is takes a lot more pumping when I'm trying to learn songs by ear so I was wondering if there was a way to attach a vacuum pump or something to make it work without the pumping motion while I'm trying to figure out notes. The accordion has various holes on it that I believe let air in and out.
Topic by astrozombies138
A friend of mine regularly changes pool filter sand for his clients and asked me to build a more effective way of doing this. So far I think an eductor would work best check this out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eductor-jet_pump Requirements: 1. be able to remove a large quantity of sand suspended in water - approximately 50kg (110 lbs) 2. use a pump to supply the motive force - 3/4 hp pump is readily available 3. the pump MAY NOT VACUUM OUT THE SAND DIRECTLY! that would ruin the pump's impellers instantly. It is essential that the pump only provides a motive force in the form of a fast-running jet of water which will create a venturi effect that sucks the sand/water slurry out of the filter. 4. the "vacuum hose" must be between 700mm and 1m long (27 - 40 inches) and about 1inch diameter. 5. The eductor/venturi must be strong enough to suck a sand/water mixture all the way up that pipe against gravity. Check the attached diagram and tell me if my venturi design looks reasonable, also what diameters should I have at points 1 - 6? I also attached a sketchup model of what I'm planning to build Facilities at my disposal: Welder, drill press, cutoff saw, dremel, various grinders, jig saw. I DON'T HAVE A LATHE OR MILLING MACHINE BUT IF IT IS ESSENTIAL I COULD ORGANISE ACCESS TO ONE OK, that's about it. Your commentary is appreciated!
Question by Baronrc | last reply
I'm just on FIAH with these Topics. But this one's cool too. Via ScienceDaily: A collaboration between researchers from Cornell, University of Chicago, and iRobot has resulted in a robot gripper that conforms to practically any object. From the article: Here's how it works: An everyday party balloon filled with ground coffee -- any variety will do -- is attached to a robotic arm. The coffee-filled balloon presses down and deforms around the desired object, and then a vacuum sucks the air out of the balloon, solidifying its grip. When the vacuum is released, the balloon becomes soft again, and the gripper lets go. This sounds like another hi-tech device that could easily be duplicated by a DIYer. All you need is a balloon, coffee grounds, and a vacuum pump. Update 2 November: Found the video! It gives a much better idea of how the thing works. Via, image from same.
Topic by CameronSS | last reply
I want to store hydrogen gas(not browns gas) in some kind of pressure container. Since the propane tank is not a good idea from your forum, I was thinking about using a truck tire that could be pressurized to 120 psi. What are the hazards in this process. I would suck out the air from the tube tire with a vacuum pump and then generate hydrogen gas, compress it into the tire. Will it work or will it become unstable and blow up?.
Question by o tvedt | last reply
After finding out my favourite catch of a good fishing day won't fit into any normal foodsealer bag or tube I wasted a few hours thinking about the problem.... These normal food sealers are like an injet printer - you pay the real price through the consumables. And with those I already noticed cheap only too often means bad quality unless you got the bargain price for ordering in bulk. My favourite kebab shop has a big commercail sealer that is used for packing stuff for other stores and catering. So I ordered a fresh and extra spicy kebab and asked if it would be possible to take a closer look on this sealer thing they use. No problem for a good customer like me but of course I was asked to finnish my kebab first and to use the provided gloves if I want to touch anything - freshly sanitised and so on.... I was surprised by two facts: a) the price of close to 5grand b) the simplicity of the thing Was not allowed to take pictures, so sorry for that as this time I really wanted some. From what I could gather without taking it apart is that 3mm stainless steel is used for a big "pan". About 80cm long, 50wide and 30 high. On the outside several pieces of square tubing, most likely to prevent warping under a high vacuum, although 3mm stainless already takes a lot. The lid was 5mm stainless with several thick viewing windows in it to check the correct placement and sealing action. Of course I am not really planning to go that big, for now anyway..... For the inside there were several frames available to cater for pots, bags, loose stuff and so on. Purpose of these frames was to make sure the bag used will be held with the open end inside the sealing section. The heating element or strip was on the floor of the pan and a push bar was mounted to the lid to give the desired pressure once the lid is locked in place. Time for the actual heat sealing of the bag is started with two switches on the locking clamps. The top bar is mounted with two springs, I assume to allow for just enough pressure for the air to be sucked out of the bag while still performing a good seal during the heating. Getting suitable parts can be as easy as to salvage an old vacuum sealer and to use a frying pan or as "complicated" as building one from scratch with a powerful vacuum pump or old fridge compressor - I like the second better ;) But after a few Instructables and still several in the making I thought the old thing of "group therapy" would be nice for this one. We are from all over world and certainly not everything I can get around the corner is available for someone from the remote areas of India or South America. And I am almost certain that someone might have a great idea on what common and easy to obtain stuff can be used for the vacuum chamber for example. Another one might already have a heating wire solution for the sealing that is cheap and reliable. You get the picture.... Why would I want to do this with several people from all over the world, maybe even fighting language problems? The benefits are there is you look for them ;) With a limited set of "rules" on certain areas of the project we get the benefit of: a) Having an instant proove of concept with actually working devices for our readers. b) A much greater chance that anyone can repeat the success at home and with already several working designs to choose from. c) A chance of actually "working" together on something with some of the great people here! d) Something new that is not a contest or challange. e) Hopefully a lot of fun on the way :) Of course and in the case this actually catches on, it would be great to somehow create a collection for this project. Like when you add several Ibles to your collection but so everyone who made one can add it. So anyone up for it?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
I started this project about a week ago after seeing the Instructable Ã¢â¬â€ https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-strikeheliostatstrike-paraboliI made mine out of cardboard and then coated the cardboard Ã¢â¬â€ front and back Ã¢â¬â€ with fiberglass resin for stiffness. I covered the inside with tinfoil to test it out and find the focal point. It worked great with the focal point at the center of the dish even with the lip of the curve. I then removed the tinfoil and replaced the tinfoil with mirrored Plexiglas. Now it works awesome. I have a 30Ã¢â¬ï¿½ parabolic mirror that can ignite wood almost instantaneously at the focal point of the light.Next I constructed the heating coil to run water through. This is made from a large 1 Kg coffee can, 16Ã¢â¬â¢ of ÃÂ¼Ã¢â¬ï¿½ copper tubing with end fittings, and the glass lid of a small sauce pan (handle removed). The outside of the coffee can is painted flat black as is the copper pipe. The copper pipe is coiled to a coil 4Ã¢â¬ï¿½ in diameter and 6Ã¢â¬ï¿½ in length and inserted inside the can with the ends extending from the side of the can through two drilled holes. The inside of the can is not painted, but left shiny. The glass lid is then taped over the hole with aluminum metal tape covering a minimum amount of the glass Ã¢â¬â€ about 1/4Ã¢â¬ï¿½ around the edge.The coffee can is then suspended over the mouth of the parabolic mirror by a three point 6Ã¢â¬ï¿½ chimney pipe stand-off. The canÃ¢â¬â¢s mouth is centered at the focal point of the mirror so all of the light being reflected by the mirror must enter the coffee can. Hoses are hooked up to the copper pipe fittings and these lines go to the feed/storage tank.The problem with the conventional set up from here is that the speed the water moves at (slow) to be heated to a great degree causes such great loses through convection, this system is not really feasible. I propose a new idea Ã¢â¬â€ or a new twist on an old idea.I noticed that the solar heat generating station use a black water pipe inside a glass vacuum tube to generate heat from the sun for heating water. I said to myself that this is a great idea and plan on building the next heating coil in a vacuum chamber. But, I also came up with the idea that the if the water is heated in this manner, why canÃ¢â¬â¢t it be transferred to the storage tank in a similar manner.If the feed lines were suspended inside a larger outer line and the outer line sealed tight and vacuumed the heat transfer due to convection would be almost nil. I estimated that with a total convective area at 100% the use of plastic stand-offs (8 @1/8Ã¢â¬ï¿½ thick over 12Ã¢â¬â¢) the convective area would be reduced to 0.6%. Unbelievable! Even if this rose to 5% it is far beyond anything in use today by the home owner. Stretches of pipe going 100s of meters would no longer be un-heard of. You could place the dish in a close by field away from the trees and house and pump the heat back without losing it to the ground.This would also work for outdoor wood furnaces if use today. An outer pipe could be added over the existing pipe work, sealed, and vacuumed Ã¢â¬â€ almost all heat lose would be gone. And much larger stretches of pipe could be used here also. They would no longer need one furnace for the barn and another for the house. With this system, the pipes could even be run above ground, if desired, in some cases.This could also be used to replace insulation on cooling lines also.The key to the system is minimal contact between the inside and outside lines, and the vacuum between the two lines. Remember, there is no transfer of heat through convention within a vacuum, because there is no air for the heat to transfer through.As with all the new ideas this could get costly depending on the scale of piping you are dealing with Ã¢â¬â€ but the savings from reduced heat lose will far out way these cost in the near future.I may get an Instructable out for the Energy efficiency contest, but will be hard pressed.
Topic by strmrnnr | last reply