Has anyone tried screen printing on the hook and loop side of velcro? Any success? Any tips?
Topic by R3 Design | last reply
Looking to make an adjustable partition for a bag to use my camera in and I haven't been able to find this fabric and don't know what it's called?
Question by Kimitino | last reply
I have a cool idea that parodies nerf and keeps you from losing oodammo at the same time! Put a strip of velcro on the front of the rounds (the red bit that faces forward), and when fired, they should stick to your victim's shirt depending on their material. You can easily tell if they have been hit or not with this, and it makes for easy recovery afterwards.
Topic by DJ Radio | last reply
How hot does the back of the screen get on the ASUS EEE? i want to put a set of velcro strips across the back to hold stuff on with.
Question by furby | last reply
I just wanted to say SOMEONE HAS TO MAKE ONE OF THESE :DAt first glance, this looks like a very well-to-do neighbourhood. One in which Formula One racing cars, private jets, speedboats and the kind of equipment that any fledgling rock band would be proud of are left lying around in the garage.In fact, these utterly realistic images are printed on plastic sheets which are stuck on garage doors - the latest craze for home owners who want to not so much keep up with, as totally freak out, the Joneses.The weather and fire-resistant prints are designed to disguise that boring, flaky, greying metalwork. Held in place by industrial strength Velcro, they are easy to change and virtually indestructible.Source
Topic by spiritwolf7984 | last reply
This fabric is basically the "loop" side of hook and loop tape. But what I am looking for is a FABRIC that you can use to line a bag or box and then place partitions (with the "hook side'' of hook & loop tape attached to the partitions) ANYWHERE in that bag/box to divide it. I don't really want to use the loop tape and sew/glue it all over my project. I know this kind of thing is out there, because I have a camera bag that is lined with this stuff. I just don't know what it is called or where to get it. Any help is appreciated! BTW - I live in the Chicago area
Question by Kimitino | last reply
I was wondering, perhaps somebody has a creative idea how to fasten a piece of Velcro to an aluminium plank 3/8'' wide. I was thinking: 1. Riveting - the head is to big though and the result is not as flush as I would like to be. 2. Glue - I don't like gluing things, would rather have a mechanical\fusing solution. But even if I agree to do so, what kind of glue should I use?
Topic by dneishtadt | last reply
Product shown in stainless steel 3D Printed and Tested !! Velcro watch band tip will lose stickiness as it ages, and then scratch anything it encounters. This buckle is used to cap the band tip, keeping it from scratching your cuffs of sleeves, especially in winter days. The name " Ning " is embossed on a pattern called BingLie (Chinese, means Cracking Ice), a pattern that was used as a window style some 600 years ago in China. Yes, I'm bringing antique fashion back into life again. Buy at Shapeways !!
Topic by 7PLAIN | last reply
Hi everyone.I need a one side adhesive, velcro-receptive tape.That is, an adhesive tape that is sticky on one side and on the other it has a felt-like tissue.English is not my first language and I am not sure about what to search for on eBay or Aliexpress to buy.I need this for my project but all the tapes I could find have both sides (both hook and loop) and they are much costlier than what I'd expect just for a felt-like one-side adhesive tapes.Can you help me please?Thank you,Atkers
Question by atkers | last reply
Question by joabac | last reply
Any ideas please help! And also the battery doest stay in the bracket in the bottom. I tried Velcro but it didnt work.
Topic by Aron313 | last reply
I have terry cloth towels and foam pieces cut to the size of the arm rests of the deck chairs. I would like to fasten them on to the arms with velcro. I want to be able to take the foam out to launder the terry cloth.
Question by menno55 | last reply
Any one good at sewing and want to make a instructable on how to make car and truck window screens out of every day materials wood,fabric,mosquitoe netting,Velcro, and needle and thread.
Topic by UFT | last reply
DIY Magnetic Power Adaptor Make Lipstick with Crayons Dieselpunk Stereophonic Amplifier Tatted Lace Panties Survival Bracelet Arduino on a Breadboard Velcro Hard Drive Dock Jasmine Tea Chocolate Truffles Wood Whittling 101 Guides Home Decorating Kids Crafts Cake Robots Instructables.com - 82 2nd St. - San Francisco, CA
Topic by fungus amungus
I'm fat myself, so I can't see how this could offend anyone. That said, the design I was thinking of would be similar to the back support brace/slings that pregnant women wear. It would also have velcro attachments for additional things like an absorbant pad for "underneath." Are there any designs/projects here on this site for similar items? Any help would be appreciated.
Question by javajunkie1976 | last reply
Okay so I'm trying to build something that will allow the li I placed on a vial to open and close according to the time protocol I assign it on Audrino. The lid is a flip, spring action lid made from hard plastic. The programming shouldn't be a problem, but I wanted to see if there is another easier way to go about this keeping the whole thing under 100grams. At first I was thinking adding Velcro to the top on the lid and on the side of the vial that the lid retracts to. The lid moved by a micro piston of some sort all powered by a watch battery a chip programmed by Audrino. But I was thinking if there is some sort of mini lever arms or somehow rig a magnetic reed switch with a magnet an use the polarities to push pull the lid? I'm just having trouble with the design, getting very frustrating. I attached a picture of a very very quick doodle of what I mean. The top design is with the Velcro idea. Thank you so much, really hope I learn something from you guys and others too!! Picture of ideas: http://i.imgur.com/pREJ9O3.jpg Thanks again! :D sorry for long message!
Question by Aehtesha | last reply
Hi there I have 2 x 3m Bamboo split poles to secure to the top of wall as a border/replacement for coving.What would be the best way to secure to the wall? I cannot hammer into the wall due to a pipe running behind where the bamboo will go.Velcro? Silicone? Double-sided adhesive pads/strips?Don' want it falling down during a meeting LOL
Topic by GregoryD45 | last reply
I'd like to be able to see my GPS app and be able to change the music playing through my portable speaker so id like to have it centered or close to center on the handlebars. I also have a mini speaker that id likely just velcro to the bars next to the phone. Any ideas?
Question by hueyd | last reply
I am getting a silicone rubber skin/case for my Kindle in order to make a custom mount. In addition I need to put a compartment on the back of the case to house some electronics components. It will be put inside of a plastic enclosure, so I need to figure out how to secure that plastic enclosure to the back of the silicone case. I was thinking of using Velcro, but I don't know if that is secure enough, or if the adhesive backing is strong enough for either the plastic or silicone surfaces. What would be the best kind of adhesive in this situation?
Question by dmehling1 | last reply
I have an electronic drum kit and I need a removable drum stick bag.I need one that will hold at least 6 to 8 pairs.I have bought bags before but,I have to take apart the drum kit to get it off to use on my acoustic kit.They have some with velcro but,they are usually to big and floppy and then I need to dig to find sticks in bag. I need something that will let me see the sticks and that are easy to grab and won't all fall out when I grab one.
Question | last reply
Just gota new netbook (Advent 4213) that has built in HSDPA (ie, a sim card slot for mobile internet). My problem is that where I work there is a very weak signal - I've looked at a couple of antennas, but there's no socket in the netbook to plug one in! The inbuilt antenna is on the bottom. Can anyone recommend a way to non-permanently attatch something, like velcro, etc, to boost the signal? It's just info on what sort of connection I could use. Thanks in advance!
Question by Coz_UK | last reply
Greetings all, I just aquired a rather expensive hat,however, being the kind of person who reads instructables on a regular schedule, I want to improve it by adding several pieces of velcro, that I may attach various useful or decorative objects to it.I don't wish to sew it because,A: I'm terrible at sewing.B: the hat has an inner lining, and I don't want to attach both layers together.so this leaves glue, I was wondering if there were any experts on here with knowledge of fabrics and fabric glue.what kinds are there?what kind should I use?will fabric glue makegore-tex melt? catch fire? acquire magic powers and cause amphibians to sing?
Topic by srunner | last reply
Hey all; I'm a bit frugal and I was thinking about creating a mount for my widescreen, 17 in. Dell SE178WFP monitor. As it turns out, the base detaches quite nicely from the screen; however, I'm not willing to pay extra money just for an additional mount. Preferably, I'd like not to drill holes in the wall in back of it, as it is merely thin drywall. At one point, I thought Velcro could work but that's a bit ridiculous for a -stationary- computer screen =cD. Additionally, there's a small metal plate that is attached to the original base that snaps into the monitor itself, if that's of any use. Thanks in advance, Zak
Question by McGrep | last reply
I am making square pillow covers using 19" forms. The back will have what is often called an envelope opening with overlapping edges. I want to have a decorative triangular shaped flap on the front, similar to that on mailing envelopes, that will close with either velcro or a big button. I am wondering if it would be easier to actually make an envelope, opening the flap to insert the pillow form. I don't know if the form will show at the top corners. If anyone has made a pillow cover like this or has instructions, I would really appreciate any help/advice you can provide. :>) Thx! Julie
Question by jshipp | last reply
So basically I'm looking to make a circuit that detects a (preferably adjustable) level of sound and completes another circuit and keeps that circuit completed until the sound level drops. I've looked around on Google but I cant find any momentary circuits. I find things like clapper kits and stuff that switches something on and keeps it on. I want to use this on my paintball loader so when it detects the sound of the gun firing it activates the motor. (like a Halo or some other high end loader) The loader is a Viewloader force with the ON-Demand jack. +One last thing this cant be too huge because I want to be able to velcro it to the side of my loader. If you know of a circuit like this or have a picture or a link That would be great; thank you all in advance :D
Question by junits15 | last reply
We are in search for ideas and/or off-the-shelf solutions for a mobility and toileting issue in response to the following request: "When I go out visiting or out on a shopping trip I often find the toilet seats too low, so I would like to see if a portable raised toilet seat could be designed. All I can find are the raised toilet seats where the existing toilet seat needs to be removed and then the raised toilet seat needs to be screwed on. [A possible solution would be to] create an inflatable one that can be attached to an existing toilet seat with something like velcro and maybe have a stiff ridge that can be secured under the existing toilet seat." Happy to hear your ideas! About Tetra Tetra is a non-profit organization that recruits skilled volunteers to create customized assistive devices for people with physical disabilities. See our instructables group at: https://www.instructables.com/group/tetra/
Topic by chuirich
I'm very intimidated to post on this forum with all you geniuses but here goes. This is an acrylic holder that you can get from any craft store. I always love this rubber stamping technique as it is so easy yet comes out so pretty every time. All you do is dry emboss a background word stamp with white emboss on white watercolor paper then stamp your image over top. I wet the ink and add a few different colors on top of each other so it looks like an actual watercolor painting. You can fleck some wet ink for an artistic effect too. The paper underneath just slides in. The pen is a Pentel pen so you can open it and put whatever paper you'd like inside. I used a small piece of clear velcro to hold the pen on. Embellish as you wish and voila a beautiful sticky note holder. This technique is great for cards and scrapbooking.
Topic by Lori Ell | last reply
Hi, I have a dog who I adopted off the street who has a stub for a paw. The padding on his stub is deformed and since he has not toes/claw he is always getting this stub cut up when he runs around (just barely more than a year old and runs around like a nut). He is a real sweetheart and a big lug at the same time (100lbs) which has made it a bit more of a challenge. (I tried to put the photos inline with the post but when i tried to publish the whole post was blank so I just attached them). Design Issues Sleeve/leg durability To resolve this problem I have been trying to make a shoe that will #1 Actually stay on snugly and #2 Last more than a few weeks. It has been an evolution starting off with bought doggie “booties” which were pretty much worthless, to a old indestructible (until now) hiking sock + “shoe goo” to a sewn nylon sleeve thingy + shoe goo. This is the best we have been able to come up with as he destroys (since he is so active), I was going to go to the dump to see if I could get some used airbag material as I had made a dog bed cover from the stuff before (previous dog who was hell bent on digging through her rubber foam bed) and it was friggin bullet proof. Keeping it on So the shoe goo + nylon sock is the closes we have come so far, the sock/sleeve part kind of works because it allows us to “strap it on” above his hock so it doesn’t slip down/off, that worked great when we were using a softer material but this more durable nylon stuff (from an old suit travel bag) seriously rubs around his hock, I am guess I will try some sort of padding (shoe insole?) around the inside where we strap it on, bulky but just using a thick sock to provide a protection wasn’t enough. I’m not in the US (or a western country) at the moment so I haven’t been able to get my hands on proper Velcro and the Velcro I managed to get he has decimated (I think mostly due to crappy Velcro but also again his just scraping up against just about everything) so I was going to try a belt of sorts but am hoping someone has a better idea. Durable Sole that Stays on Shoe goo is the best we have come up with so far for a sole as everything else I tried just didn’t work (tried rubber pipe stopper thingy, Ear Bulb Syringe, modified mini-plunger) either because they didn’t fit how he walks on that foot (can’t describe it but a ball type shape is needed) or they were too hard to affix to a sleeve in a way that they would stay. The best version we have come up with so far has involved the afore mentioned nylon sleeve (durability) with shoe goo smeared in layers on the end. This has been workable but the shoe goo doesn’t stick to the material as well as I would like and is starting to come off after about 2 months. As with the other issues, any suggestions would be appreciated!
Topic by gaikokujinkyofusho | last reply
Tennis-bot serves to collect the dozens of tennis balls scattered on the court during a lesson. Using shape recognition, the robot continuously collects balls from the court and returns them to a hopper device. The tennis instructor retrieves balls from the top half of the hopper manually; the bottom half serves as a docking, recharging, and storage area for the robot. The robot's actions allow for a more continuous and productive lesson. Balls on the court are sensed by shape and color recognition cameras on the bot and are then collected with velcro hook pads. To ensure only the tennis balls belonging to the bot's owner are collected, some sort of marking may be applied to the balls. A small storage area on top of the tennis-bot holds the balls temporarily until the robot returns to the main hopper and deposits them there. The bot may also incorporate a shooting device to return balls to players. During a lesson, most tennis balls are hit behind the instructor and end up between the base line and the fence. With a line recognition camera, tennis-bot will be able to limit its search to this area. To help the robot keep track of the its position and to aid more efficient ball retrieval, an internal map system will be used.
Topic by StepsoftheSun | last reply
After making small holes in my Howard Leight earmuffs (probably ABS plastic) for the wires, I notice they don't isolate quite as well as before. First I tried mixing cornstarch and clear silicone caulk to make a Sugru substitute both to plug the holes and to attach the connecting wires to the over the head piece. Although the Oogoo initially seemed to adhere, it didn't seem to block the noise out, and after a few days it started peeling away. Then I tried something I had lying around for filling in damaged wood. It isolated sound very well and was very hard, but it too came apart from the plastic. Rubber cement held about twice as good as Oogoo, but also peeled away. On the headband strap I also tried a combination of electrical tape and double-sidded tape, but it too peeled away from the plastic. Now I'm using plastic ties, which I later read someone else on here used and add an artsy touch, but they're uncomfortable. Anyone have any ideas? I've attached a Sansa Clip+ to the earpiece with Velcro.
Topic by Nat2020 | last reply
Hey y'all, I was bored, so I made this RC hovercraft, kinda like a Tiny Whoov, from the guts of a $5 RC helicopter (sold at most FiveBelows). The idea is that a hovercraft is more fun than a cruddy helicopter, in addition to being a fun and easy DIY project for the weekend. It could be a nice gift to a kid. My first concern was that the motors would not provide enough power to get the thing moving. They give more than enough power, and this thing can MOVE. My second concern is that the differential thrust steering system (one motor turns faster than the other, steering the hovercraft) would not be effective enough. This is still a problem that I don't have the enthusiasm or time to solve anymore. Maybe someone could figure out how to reprogram the FC board to have more differential thrust (is that possible?), or somehow configure a servo or actuator without raising the cost of materials too much. Anyway, here's the concept, go have fun with it.Supplies:Foam platesHot glue$5 RC helicopter with 2 motors and receiver (LED optional, but really cool)Connector (the battery might be soldered directly to the FC board, so this will make it easier to fiddle with)Soldering iron (not %100 necessary, but it can come in handy)Propellers (see design notes)Design notes:Notice how the underside of the hull is curved and smooth. I used propellers from a Blade Inductrix FPV Pro, but any micro quad propellers should work. Notice the nice little compartment under the FC board where you can stick a battery without the need for Velcro or glue. This would be a very easy FPV mod, but that would add about $20 to the cost.
Topic by Thorondor95
Amplifying an acoustic guitar method 1 If you have a musical birthday card or whatever at home, remove the audio unit its the 1" or so round disc usually white with a small brass ring around the edge, handle carefully as they are not to strong., keep the wires on it by snipping at the opposite end, it will make things easier later, If you don't have one, buy a $1 musical card of any discription and proceed as above. Next wherever you are comfortable with it, drill a 1/4" hole to accommodate a 1/4 Mono jack socket Next solder two wires to the jack socket one to live tag and one to shield use two different colour wires and id the earth one, say if its black make a note of that(earth tag) make them about 6" long, fit socket into hole by putting your hand with socket into the sound hole and into the hole made to take the jack socket, screw the nut on socket end to make firm bring the wires out of the sound hole, fix the earth wire to the wire that goes to the outer ring on the disc (Solder (Best) or twist and tape connect the other wire to the remaining wire from jack socket.put some blue tak on the outside of the disc the opposite side to where the wires are attached put your hand in the sound hole and press the disc to the underbody a position about central under the bridge, you can experiment for best position for you. PS attach the disc with the small hole in center and white plastic area facing upwards under bridge, or wherever you like it best.....Plug into your amp adjust according to your liking and away you go. Method 2 As above except dont drill a hole rather place the jack socket via blue tak or velcro to the top of the guitar by the edge towards the rear of guitar, where the wires exit the sound hole blue tak them the the underbody to keep neat and out of the way.
Topic by fenderphil | last reply
I'm starting a new topic so I can edit it later with more content.I went with some friends to a different lab section that was also playing with the tunnel (my official turn is on Friday).Things put in:1. PVC tube -- to show detachment of a cylinder2. Golf Ball -- to show how dimples create turbulence and keep flow attached longer3. Tennis Ball -- to show how fuzz acts almost like golf ball dimples4. Porsche 9115. Atlantis Space Shuttle6. Porsche 911-turbo (or possibly a 935 or 993 -- can't remember)7. Chain Mail Cube -- wtf? why did someone make that?8. Surf Board Fin9. Optimus Prime10. Unknown Porsche (I just can't remember what it was)11. Batting Cage BallThe pump was set to 3.55 inches per second. So for a 1/64 scale model (for the cars) - that's just under 13mph equivalence (in water).My camera had a low battery -- so the shutter was slower than normal. I'll get fresh batteries and a tripod on Friday I'll have some better pictures (hopefully).As for what I'm bringing in... Still don't know -- but I think I am going to do a comparison of apples and oranges :PVideos of the 911, 911turbo, unknown porsche and of the overall tunnel in operation ;)Update November 3rdItems Tested:1. Plastic Cone (with hole in top)2. Apple3. Eyeglass Case4. Obligatory Altoids Tin5. Plastic Water Bottle6. Highlighter Cap7. Reverse Gear from a manual gearbox (Nissan)8. Pen Cap thing9. Rubber Duck10. Nerf Dart (velcro top)11. Batman Shield (this was really cool)12. Welded Plate13. Golf Ball14. Guitar Bar15. Wing FoilAgain, it was set to 3.55 inches per second. I couldn't find an orange on campus (weird considering I'm in central Florida :P). So I'd say an orange is kinda like a golf ball :PThe Bat Shield video is very cool - if you watch just one of them, make it the bat shield ;)
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
First of all - congratulations to all the finalists! Our Halloween Easy Costumes finalists shared some absolutely fantastic costumes! Here at Instructables we are always impressed with how the simplest of materials can be turned into the most amazing Halloween costumes. Not only were our finalists super creative and resourceful, their costumes were well documents and could easily be recreated on a small budget and with very little time. We loved reading all the tips and tricks for getting a costume just right, substituting materials and customization. Picking winners was challenging, but we know you'll be just as impressed as we are with them! And so, without further ado... FIRST PRIZE Composer Busts by davidandora. This costume is not only incredibly easy to do, but it's an original concept and looks fantastic. Another fun attribute is that it looks even better when grouped together, so this costume is perfect for you and your friends! SECOND PRIZE (alphabetical order) HAWKEYE. by Mr.Sanchez How to make a Thor Costume by The Rambler Minecraft Steve Costume by pjkumpon pjkumpon's Minecraft Steve Costume was one of the best we've got on Instructables - looks amazing and the finishing touches like adding velcro to keep the head on straight or adding foam for comfort truly made it a top notch costume! Hawkeye and Thor used hot glue and craft foam in fabulous and inventive ways - both costumes are definite proof that those two materials can make great costume armor. THIRD PRIZE (alphabetical order) Duct Tape TMNT Shredder Costume for $8.11 by imamathguy Luke Skywalker and Darth Vader (Kid-friendly) by eric3dee Make an award-winning costume in one night with packing tape and newspaper by morganlemae Mr. Fredrickson from UP - Halloween costume, 8mo+ by T_Albrecht YOSHI HOODIE by jtrask1 Our third prize winners really shined when it came to using household and ready made materials! Mr. Fredickson's PVC pipe walker was perfect - and we loved the idea of adding extra weight to it to help with stability. And the sweater vest and bow tie were too cute! Shredder's cardboard and duct tape armor came together quick and was ingenious - the duct tape is a great substitute for metal. The Yoshi Hoodies were a great project - we loved how the author took a simple piece of clothing and was able to make a cute costume that looked great and was easy to wear out trick or treating! morganlemae's tree costume shows the potential of packing tape in costume making - I can't wait to see if it spawns more packing tape costumes. And last but not least, the creative use of materials like ace bandages and a milk jug for the Luke Skywalker and Vader costume was really impressive - not to mention the absolutely adorable photos! Congratulations to all that entered! It was so much fun reviewing all the entries. Our Halloween contests make us realize we truly have the most creative and expressive community on the internet. You are all amazing - thank you for sharing with us. :D
Topic by jessyratfink | last reply
125 SPACES AVAILABLE Deadline to sign up: Monday, August 4. Accepted spaces will be notified by August 6. SEPTEMBER BUILD NIGHT We are partnering with Sugru, the amazing self setting rubber, for our September 2014 build night. This is our 2nd build night with Sugru and we couldn’t be more excited! Sign up and we will ship you a package that includes: (8) packs of sugru (1 pack = 8 mini packs) HOW TO PARTICIPATE: Host a Build Night: pick a night in September (any night) to host a project build night using Sugru. You can host multiple build nights during September and October to work on your projects. Post 3 Instructables: post 3 Instructables using Sugru. We are looking for these projects to showcase unique uses for Sugru. (Not posting these Instructables will affect your chances to participate in future build nights). Check here for some inspiration. 5 creative ways to improve your kitchen 5 ideas for sugru in your garden 11 ways to sugruify your keys 8 ways to make your GoPro even more amazing 10 ways to refresh vintage finds 12 musicians get creative with sugru 7 clever ideas sugru + velcro 20 sugru holiday hacks 20 ways sugru can improve your crafting kit Brownie Points (not required): after the build night post a forum topic on Instructables about your event. Include pictures, stories, etc... Here are two examples from past build nights: Noisebridge and Makers Local 256. We may even feature your photos on the homepage. CHALLENGE The two spaces that submit the Instructables with the most unique use of sugru will receive a copy of the Autodesk Product Design Suite Ultimate (first prize) and a Nikon D5200 Digital SLR Camera (second prize). Grand Prize (Autodesk Design Suite): Dynamic Motor Balancing with Sugru and an iPhone by Phoenix Asylum First Prize (DSLR Camera): Poor Mans Fire Works by ShakeTheFuture Honorary Mentions (Instructables t-shirts): Sugru Raspberry Pi Corners by Geekspace Gwinnett Stop Motion Puppetry with Sugru by Hitchin Hackspace SIGN UP - Please only sign up if you are able to complete the requirements listed above This is a 2-step sign up process. YOU MUST COMPLETE BOTH TO FULLY SIGN UP. Fill out this google form. You will then receive a private message in your Instructables inbox by August 6 asking for your shipping information. You cannot receive the Sugru materials without completing this step. Selection Process: This is NOT first come first serve. We look at past build night participation, past project quality, and project proposals for the current build night. If you haven't participated in a build night OR haven't submitted Instructables for build nights you signed up for we suggest your space create Instructables over the next few months and submit them in future applications. RESOURCES: Sugru Website Instructables App (for documentation during the build night): iOS and Android JOIN OUR ANNOUNCEMENT LIST If you are interested in being directly notified about future build nights fill out this form. You will receive an e-mail when new events are announced in the forums. Please only sign up if you are not already on the build night mailing list. ABOUT BUILD NIGHTS Instructables is sponsoring monthly build nights at makerspaces and hackerspaces around the world. Each month we partner with a different company to send you materials and/or tools to run a workshop at your space. In return your space posts Instructables from your build night.
Topic by Carleyy | last reply
I had an idea although IDK how to implement it. I have a Vibrating massage chair (its just like a average recliner with some vibrators in it) I had lost the wall wort power adapter for this in a move a couple years ago and recently i had an idea while looking for gaming chairs and i thought to myself this would be more comfortable than something i could afford being a $500+ chair already i think I might try to fix it and in the process make it a gaming chair. I just dont know how........ So basically this chair uses a 12v 600MaH/.6v Power adapter (which i lost and when i was going to replace it thought i might me able to do more with this than just make it work again. So once it is plugged in it has a corded remote that has a back and seat vibration control's of off high and low. now i am not thinking of making the vibrations respond with intensity but just vibrate in general in conjunction with the system. I would say I have a Intermediate knowledge about soldering modding etc. Although I have no IDEA how to do this. I think it would somehow require a special Controller connected to the chairs power. As all i would want is the chair to vibrate when the controller does. The back oof the chair has a velcro flap that i an access the innerds of the chairs mecanism (i suppose for fixing it if it broke) So the only thing is how to hook up the controller in a way its not obtrusive to controlling it and simply how to do it. I know this may be a hard question to ask about without someone seeing the chair but is it possible??? How do gaming chairs achieve this effect ????? I would like it to be connected to the controller somehow and not the xbox as the cord is undesirable. So basically all I need to do is make some sort of circuit that is connected to the xbox controller that turns the chair on when it turns on. thats basically it. so first of all is it possible and if so any pointers??? I think it would also make a nice instruct-able after I find out how to do it. I assume it would require some soldering and at MOST and Arduino but I hope not as i do not have much experience with them. although if it does maybe someone can help me and all the Arduino Programing would all be credited to whoever helps me with the code. So yeah I would like to make this work I really think it would be cool as i already have a sound system that is good enough for sound (i can easily wire some extra speakers to be mounted behind the chair and once i get the vibration i would basically have a nice lay-z-boy gaming chair IDK. I have no xbox controller modding exp ( i never really wanted to or had the need) so it would be a learning experience for me although if it could be done with a USB connection to the Xbox that would be ok for now ( i would run it under the rug but its not the optimal result i want) In all since this chair already has the vibration mecanism i would think it would be possible and hopefully not that difficult to do. (at least i hope so) If this interests anyone I would GREATLY appreciate your help. and i will certanly tag anyone who helps me with this when i finish and make an instruct-able. So in all thank all of you who reply to this post and I hope i posted this in the correct forum as i never have asked for help on this site. THANK YOU ALL IN ADVANCE
Topic by beatnik | last reply
Every year we hear about countless homes being destroyed by forest fires. Unfortunately, the public isn’t aware that our current level of technology can readily address this problem. I have been examining a concept that has intrigued me over the past decade and which I call a “fire shield”. This shield functions by completely enveloping a private home and protecting it against encroaching forest fires. We’re talking about protection against a blazing fire storm generating high speed winds and flames in excess of 100 MPH. The shield would be a flexible structure that easily inflates like a balloon (needing perhaps three people for a day to erect) and forms a protective hemispherical, shell-like dome over the home (Fig-1). The structure would be impervious to penetration by high speed flames and their intense radiant heat, thereby keeping the enveloped home safe, cooled and protected. Each home would require a pre-fitted, customized buildup of a number of pre-built modular, balloon-like segments. They are manufactured and then assembled over the house only once, to get a customized tailored fit, then taken down and stored, and thereafter are ready to be deployed within a day’s advance notice of an encroaching forest fire. The Fire-Shield would be a modular, portable, inflated dome like those used for indoor tennis, which is prepared and custom-fitted to be later erected within a day. While typical inflated domes have their entire inner volume pressurized, our Fire-Shield will only require pressurizing a small volume contained between its double-walled structure that forms the dome as shown in Fig-1. The surface of its outer material uses NASA's radiatively reflective, aluminized Mylar to ward off the intense radiant heat of a fire storm. In addition this surface gets protected against the 100 – 150 MPH fire-winds, which are ready to impinge upon it, by injecting a high speed film of air (just like gas-turbine blades) produced by portable blowers. The actual heat-shield contains multiple, redundant pockets of cells directing the flow of air to both film-cool its surface and protect the shield against direct flame contact. Each major modular segment would contain its own portable, gasoline powered wind generator to supply the airflow. Depending upon home-size, several of these modules would be easily connected using Velcro plus redundant snaps and safety-stays. The shield gets attached over chimney tops and to pre-installed, grounded cement-posts, plus strategic hooks about the outside of the house. Special, inflated pillows are also strategically placed (between the shield and the house exterior) to facilitate the formation of a hemispherical shield that envelopes and protects our home against a high speed fire-storm. The Fire-Shield Design Concept The concept for a fire shield went through a gestation period of several decades as my career in thermo/fluids evolved. It started with the design of jet engine turbine cooling to thermal control of satellites, and finally to designing radiant heat barriers for cryogenics. These activities enabled receiving a score of patents as well. These activities inspired the concept for a rapidly deployable Fire-Shield to protect homes against a raging forest fire. The idea requires integrating several technologies ranging from inflatable commercial air domes to jet engine cooling to radiatively cooled spacecraft. Also included are flexible material coatings developed by NASA that radiatively reflects high temperature heat, making the deployable Fire-Shield a viable concept. Two key design principles are employed to protect both the heat shield and the home it envelopes. The first is shown in Fig-2 and uses a high speed film of air (faster than the anticipated fire-storm flame speeds of 100 – 150 MPH) that is locally directed to blow over the shield’s surface, cooling it and protecting it just like the metal turbine blades of jet-engines. The temperature of speeding flames impinging upon a jet engine’s metallic turbine blades is hot enough to easily melt them, yet the blades are protected by using this film cooling technology. The same technology will protect the heat-shield from meltdown when high speed flames of 100+ MPH attempt to impinge upon its surface. The second principle protects the shield against the intense radiant heat coming from a blazing forest fire where temperatures can exceed 2000 F. While this radiant heat does not physically touch the shield, as would a fire-storm’s flames, its presence is “felt” and is as deadly as the hot flames that would normally scrub over the shield without our film-cooling. We use a radiatively reflective, thermal coating barrier that repels this radiant heatload and protects the shield from melting. Such coatings were originally developed by NASA to protect satellites and spacecraft. The coating gets applied to the shield’s outer domed surface and will reflect better than 97% of all intensive radiant heatloads that are incident upon the dome’s surface. (Patent Pending; Original Concept Documented in 2006)
Topic by RT-101