Question by dianamcdougal | last reply
Search for washing machine wringer in Topics
I have an old electric wringer washing machine. I cannot get the wringer to function. I was wondering if any of you can tell me how to either get it working, or how to convert it so I can use it as a hand cranked wringer. Thank you
Question by Dixiebitch | last reply
I work for a charity with Aboriginal Australians in the remote outback of Australia, a place called Arnhem land, it is worth a google. People need washing machines, they buy them, they break , even with warranty cover, they can not be fixed as no service men will come here to service them, we are too remote. Houses here have about 20 people living in them, there is no work here and people live on small government payments which are not enough to cover daily expenses. Due to the difficulty in accquiring and maintaining a working washing machine, health issues such as Crusted Scabies have taken hold here, and cause much suffering. We can't erradicate the disease here without getting working washing machines. We need a solution, an easy to use, easy to fix washing machine. No electronics. Cold water only is fine. Possibly even hand operated, or wind operated (or other) I found one which is a plastic tub which turns with a handle and stands on two feet. However the construction too flimsy, the tub not big enough for a bed sheet, it was green though. Didn't use electric power. Anyone have any ideas? Know any other sites I could post on to get ideas? Thanks : )
Topic by lisafromnz | last reply
I recently purchased a roller wringer, but having trouble finding a place to secure it to which will remain stable while i crank. The oval washtub i have id small around 30quarts, it fits , i use a piece of wood so the clamps aren't on the washtub.. however the tub id too light weight and falls over if there is no water or clothe in the tub.i will truy and edit this later with a picture and measurements, but off hand i think between the screw clamps it is 14 inches, i would really like ti mount in on my bathtub, outer rim which is 6inches.,since i would have no stability and movements.he vendor i bought ot from said it was normality monuted on a upside down T shaped wood setup, i am not sure what that means. i also don't want to get a bigger wash basin, since i l live in an apartment and space is really limited/ these are the specs from amazon " Clamps open to 1 3/4". The wringer's metal frame size is 15.5" wide. With the crank handle attached it extends the length to 29". The frame height is 8.5" but extends to 10.25" counting the tension screw knob on top. The metal frame is 2" deep with a 6" drip tray the slides into the frame under the rollers. The usable inside width is 11.25" from one side of the roller to the other. Weighs about 15 lbs assembled."
Question by escapefromyonkers | last reply
The RCA Whirlpool washing machine is 10 years old. It works perfectly, but it has a small OIL leak at the left front of the washing machine. Joe.
Question | last reply
The make of the washing machine is whirlpool awz 510 e
Question by maiseyg | last reply
During the washing process there is a clunk (once) noise. It occurs after filling but before agitation; after agitation but before emptying; after emptying but before filling for rinse etc. Wondering if this is a transmission or gear problem
Question | last reply
When the washing machine stops spinning during the rinse cycle it makes a loud rattling sound that echos through the house. Is there a way I can tighten or replace something or do I just buy a new one?
Question by jonnyc249 | last reply
Question by ishan udyoga | last reply
GE washer mod. #WJSR4160D0CC I like to soak our cloths so I stop the washer & the timer still runs can hear it clicking?
I have a GE washer model #WJSR4160D0CC. When I start a load I like to soak our whites for a few hours so I stop the washer after it fills up and spins for a while and let them soak. After I stop the washer you can still hear the timer running and clicking is my timer going bad? My husband says it should not make this noise at all once I push in the knob to let it soak. Once the washer runs through the full cycle it does not make this sound. Is it going bad? Any thoughts? Thank you.
Question by spunkyra | last reply
I want to weave a rag rug, and include LED's in the rug. Ideally, I would like to weave the wiring and LED's into the rug so that they are concealed in the rug- and not removable. But most people like rag rugs because they are machine washable. If I were to soak a LED wired rug in soapy water, rinse by hand and only use the machine to spin the excess water out, then line dry the rug, would the LED's still work, or does water destroy them and the connections? Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Question by msthimble | last reply
I have a direct drive Lg Washer , when it goes into rinse cycle it makes a loud noise. Could this be the pump?
Question by jetnbudge | last reply
Hello, I love this place and I love making things and living cheaply. However Im stuck. I have just moved into a rented property with a brand new standard Bosh washing machine. I have a baby and lots of laundry! The house is on Economy 7, so electricty is waaaay cheaper from midnight till 6am. I need to delay the start on the washing machine until say 3am so that I can bring the bills down. Please note: The machine has no memory so I cant use a timer plug (tried) To start the program you have to touch (press & release - blu tack didnt work!) the start button No I cant stay up that late every night! Help! Basically I need a simple, discreet, failsafe idea for something to touch the start button at a preset time or say 3 hours after I ask it. Ideas extremely welcome. Dean.
Topic by dean_wales | last reply
I just found a washing machine on the road. when i dismantled it. there was only the motor no capacitor found. on the motor there is no description or labels. there is 3 wires out of it. i want to run this motor at full speed whichever direction it rotates. just want it to run at maximum speed. the simplest way is the better. Wires on it Blue WIre Red Wire Yellow wire i have the capacitor that i got from another motor. just need to know how to wire it. connect it to the mains run at maximum power without burning it. the motor is brushless.
Question by ARJOON | last reply
Washing full loads of laundry with only one cup of water? The Xeros washing machine, created by researchers at Leeds University, uses plastic chips combined with just one cup of water and detergent to clean your clothes. Since washing machines are a major source of water consumption, this invention, if it is viable, could help reduce our water usage by an enormous amount.Link
Topic by joshf | last reply
Hello, i already asked a question about a car starter as a Motor for my Electric bike project. I got bad news from the answers, so I wanna use a washing machine motor. My question is, do i need 240V to power it? Or it has like a transformator in the washing machine that makes the voltage lower? I never opened one..
Question by dsirotic | last reply
You can make a washing machine motor with the module and taco run with a potentiometer switch to give you speed control over the motor I have the planes for a hot point motor but not the motor im using !! does anyone have the no how as to with leads to connect to contact email@example.com
Question by rumsey | last reply
I'm thinking about a new design for a cloth wringer like function. A product that will squeeze your cloth from water. Not pointing out any imperfections from a generic cloth wringer shown in the first picture but its just a thought of designing a new one since some say that the current mechanism of a cloth wringer doesn't do the job effectively or there is a separate need for a bucket for it to be attached. Anyway, the design I'm thinking of is to solve any problems that is experienced by a normal cloth wringer.I'm thinking of a new design that would include a tube that would let you insert your desired cloth and a separate cloth absorber that would absorb the water when you squeeze the tube. A picture of a tube would look like the second picture (taken from the internet, youtube aa product called "Easy Squeezy" by Vitility). However its mechanism isn't the same as the idea I have but its physical appearance is kind of the same. I can't make a new one since I still don't know how it would look like based on the mechanism I have in mind.The Easy Squeezer's mechanism includes two separate tubes and you'll need to insert your cloth inside the inner tube and close it by another tube. Then you'll need to apply a force directly into the tube so you'll be able to squeeze out the water from your cloth. As shown from the youtube demonstration video (Link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--tHZRMjk3Q)Thus, an idea came up and the mechanism I have in mind is you'll need the tubes just like from the "Easy Squeezer" and a separate absorbing cloth (preferrably a microfiber one). Then, you'll need to roll your wet cloth along with the microfiber cloth and insert it into the tube. After you've inserted the two rolled clothes into the tubes the mechanism would allow you to create a twisting force into the tubes and ultimately squeeze most of the water from the wet cloth while preserving an uncreased cloth. Which is illustrated from the fourtth picture. Generally, you can do the twisting yourself even without the tubes but it would take a great effort to squeeze and make it a tedious job when you're going to do it for a large amount of wet clothes. The mechanism I have in mind is for the tubes' ability to translate a larger torque (or twisting moment) into the tubes while only having to exert little force. However, the problem is I don't know how to start in the design. Any ideas and suggestions on how to improve?
Question by CzarLuc123145 | last reply
Having had a washing machine drain line problem this weekend, I began wondering about ways of disposing of the drain water. With the soap and bleach I'm not sure of just pumping in to the lawn. This time of the year (Summer) the ground around the house slab get very dry and separates from the slab and I was thinking drain water might help but again not sure of yard and flower effects. Seem like a huge waster of reusable water. Any ideas?
Topic by uguy | last reply
Hi, Unfortunately our washing machine stopped working the other day… It’s a seven years old Upo TL1200D for those who cares. It’s quite small and old, so my wife and I have decided to buy a new one. My question is, are there any valuable/notable parts I should disassemble for future DIY projects, before we throw it out? I know I could always open it up my self and have a look (plan b). Since our apartment is a bit space constrained, the idea of having lots of parts laying around is not so popular… :) I have overlooked good quality parts in the past when I have throwned stuff away, and I thought maybe someone in here have any ideas of what to toss and what to keep?
Topic by papirkopi | last reply
I would like to know what the service codes mean for the Fisher and Paykel Smart Drive or Intelligent washing machines. Mine keeps telling me I need service but I can't afford to have someone come out if it's something simple. I've already replaced the hose on it.
Question by Rustyblue | last reply
All other plumbing works great, this one backs up with new washer water volume during spin? Can I run a snake down the vent? Any other suggestions? I ask this because there doesn't seem to be an open airwary when draining high volume of water. When washing machine stops draining the water flows down the pipe. It is just when it is too much volume that the problem occurs. Probably a gallon of water ends up on floor. Need some advice. Note that adjacent to laundry room is half bath and plumbing there is working fine, also kitchen sink and dishwasher are within 15 feet and no problems from them. Looking for advice.
Question by jakmalak | last reply
Stepa to operate a commercial dish wahing machine
Question | last reply
Hi I have a Miele W5741 washing machine which is three years old. The other day it tripped the electricity (RCD) I found that it would trip the RCD every time regardless of what program I used. After a few trials I have found the following: if I use the machine and select cold water (no heating of water) then it does not trip the electricity (RCD). So my conclusion is that it is the heater that is causing the washer to trip the electricity! What do you think? I opened up the front to locate the heater. However I don’t see how I can remove the heater as I see no screws! I have attached a pic so you can see the front/heater.
Topic by taylor_bur | last reply
I would like to be able to run an automatic washing machine the same as one does TWIN TUB washing machine. like adding the water myself via a bucket instead of the machine connected to a tap. as i intend to live out in the bush with only generator power and no water pump on the tank. can an automatic washing machine be made to operate as a manual one.?? thanks everyone.!!
Question by yeovile | last reply
I'm the opposite of knowledgeable when it comes to plumbing however I have done a fair amount of searching through forums to find an answer to my problem and unfortunately still have questions. To make it easier, I have taken a picture of the pipes as well as the actual waste hose behind my machine. The hose from the machine sits in what I believe is called the standpipe on the left and goes approximately half a foot down. I have taken apart the p bend (or u bend - still don't know the difference) and confirmed that there is no blockage. I have run a snake down and around all the pipes with no issues and also used some soda crystals just incase but water flows through the pipes easily. What I believe is the issue is that the output from the machine is producing water faster than it can travel through the pipes which are 40mm in diameter. I believe that if I removed the p bend and just replaced it with a 90° corner, it would work fine but obviously it's there for a reason and particularly with the pipes only a 6 feet from the drain, I'm very reluctant to do that. One more thing to point out is that on the right hand side, there is a pipe which I have capped off. I was wondering if that trapped air could be preventing the water flowing down as quickly and if I need to find some kind of air valve which may allow air out? As it stands, I have just put the waste hose into the sink next to the machine and that has let me at least use it for now. I appreciate any advice people can offer.
Question by TheBag | last reply
Question | last reply
So I have been looking for a cheap way to quickly wash small loads of laundry and came across the "Wonder Wash" (http://www.laundry-alternative.com/washing.htm). The main issue I have with this thing is the $50 price tag. I know that it is a small amount to pay to reduce your water and electricity needs but times are tight. My baby seems to go through 5-6 burp rags a day and I don't like using the washing machine for such a small load every other day. Anyone have any insight on how I can build one of these on the cheep? Cheers Cody
Topic by loki7856 | last reply
I am writing this partly because of bed experiences with rental angents/landlords and as a general help.Here in Australia as well as other parts of the world it is common pratise that a real estate agent goes through your rented home multiple times a year to check if you keep it clean and undamaged.In most cases these visits go without any hickup until you move out.At this point agents often try to make your life a misery.Some expect you get the house back to the state it was 10 years ago when you moved - an impossible task.Carpet cleaning is usually done with a rented machine.This mean you pay a deposit for the machine and "rent" is made by the highly overpriced cleaning fluid you have to use with the machine.But more and more people see that a $100 machine from the discounter is a "money saver".So lets start with the main differences between a rented, commercial grade machine and those you find at the discounter to buy.The later comes quite small and in plastic, the commercial one is usually all metal and has huge water and waste tank.And lets be honest here, if a good vacuum cleaner sets you back more than twice what your new floor cleaning machine costs.....For me the real difference is in the sucktion.If you start with 10 liters in a commercail machine then you should expect to get over 8 liters back in the waste tank.The added waste often makes it seem much more though ;)The cheap discounter vesion however often struggles to get half of the water back out of your carpet that it drained into it!This is not only due to the weaker vacuum created but also due to the general design and lack of sealing the area that is sucked up.But during a hot summer week this makes no vital difference as it dries off anyway, or does it?Dryness and contamination....If you wash your clothes than you let them fully dry before you wear them.With a freshly cleaned carpet we often don't have that luxury and if the weather won't play nice you might end with a moist carpet for weeks.A proper wash of the carpet would require that water is actually flowing through the fabric.This is achieved by designing water outlets and sucktion areas to be in close proximity.However, most carpets these days are thin and flimsy, the underlay brings the comfort and often the required insulation from the cold floor.Fun fact: Most quality carpets in the EU come with a rubber or foam like backing which prevents that little spills go through and also leave the carpet basically dry after a cleaning.If the amount of water your machine collects does not get very close to what you filled into the tank then you end with a quite wet carpet and underlay.Cold from underneath and with basically no airflow through it.And if you ever removed an old carpet that was cleaned every few years you do know why you wear a protective suit, gloves and a filter mask on your face....It is simply impossible with a handheld machine to prevent water and contaminants from getting into the foam underlay of US and AU style carpet assemblies.Once fully dry there is little chance for anything to grow, but every time you clean the carpet you add the water required...I had it in two rentals that when I cleaned the carpets with a really good machine that stains from within the underlay came back up into the carpet.A job planned for a day then turned into three days of using heater fans and living in a sauna while washing carpets :(The same is true if you end up with fresh dirt or such on the carpet while it is still moist underneat - it gets worked ino the carpet and becomes even harder to clean.Is a commercial cleaning the better option?Sadly I have to say this highly depends on your agent/landlord and how much time and money you have.In some areas agents simply ignore the law and demand from you that the carpet looks at least as good as when you moved in.And if old stains you did not know about come from the filthy underlay a rented machine can come close to the cost of getting a commercail team in to do the job once you vacated.Either way you get an invoice for the service and a statement about the condition of the carpets before and after the cleaning.These guys come with a big van and before it fires up with water only the vacuum is used.Imagine a monster sized vacuum cleaner head on steroids that connects to an industrial sized evacuation fan in the van.It literally lifts your carpet from the underlay and leaves nothing loose behind.The actual cleaning and sanitation works the same way only with the big difference that the water is sprayed with pressure through the carpet and into the underlay.Final round is done dry and with vacuum only, means the carpets are dry enough to walk on them without getting wet feet.A complete dry state is usually reached within 2 days during the summer unlike rented machines that keep the humidity in your house up and high for about 2 weeks until back to normal.Main benefit of a commercail cleaning is that you won't get any issues with your agent/landlord unless you damaged the carpets or made them impossible to clean - ever dropped an ink jet printer refill kit? ;)If I do it myself with a reasonably good machine or a rented one : Do I have options for the cleaning solution used?Trust me, I had to figure that one out quickly when I moved into my first rental down here.4 bedrooms, entire house with carpet except for the kitchen and wet areas.They appeared reasonably clean at a first look but when I used a UV flashlight at night the story was shocking....In what must have a room for a baby the carpet looked like a psychedlic art impression under the UV light.The living room was not much better.As a result the rented machine ran out of cleaning fluid quickly.Bought 2 bottles that were supposed to be suffient for the house size but if you need several rounds per room.I "finnished" the former baby room and was one bottle down already.Called it a day and in the dark the UV light showed a slithly fades art impression but nowhere clean :(The shop had a heavy duty cleaning solution but I did not consider it with a price twice as high.Instead I wondered what would make my carpet different from my clothes in my washing machine....So I got a canister of Oxy-cleaner - sometimes called nappy soaking powder, or similar.Just make sure you get one that does not foam up too much.I used a bucket to dissolve a good amount of the powder before filling it into the machine - at about 40°C.What ended in the waste tank when using this cheap alternative looked digusting to say the least!With that encouragement I decided to make a new bucket with some added washing powder, just a tablespoon worth or just over.Washing powder for front loader does not foam up much, unlike the stuff for top loader, so choose wisely.That was, all counted, the forth cleaning round for the former baby room but after this the UV light showed a clean carpet that also had nice spring fresh smell thanks to the washing powder.Using the same appraoch of lots of oxy cleaner and a bit of washing machine powder in semi hot water made cleaning the rest of the house a breeze!When going slow with the machine it was like mowing the lawn, it left a clean path behind.Not all carpets might tolerate oxy cleaners though, especially if they are quite colorful, so do a spot check first if you never used the stuff to clean up a little spill of red wine before.And please keep some of the commercial cleaning fluid at hand to give the machine a quick wash through with it, otherwise the shop might ask you if you used non approved cleaning stuff with it ;)Tips for adjustable cleaning machines....Some of the rented machines come with several possible adjustments you can make.In the most basic form you can adjust the amount water used and how strong the machine sucks.Keep the sucktion as high as possible unless you actually want to pre soak the carpet.The amount of water should be adjusted to the type of carpet not to how dirty it is!You want just enough water to soak the carpet without going into the underlay too much.A clear sign of using too much water is if you waste tank is only half full when the water tank is empty.A few of the really good machines let you adjust the distance between the water outlet and sucktion area.In most cases there pre-set to what, from experience is the most commonly type of carpet in the area.Your might be different though...A greater distance means more time for the cleaning solution to do its job.This works especially well for thicker carpets with amount of water turned down to below 50%.For thin carpets a short distance is better as the water does not have to go deep into the fabric.Here you can even increase the water flow for very dirty areas without risking to soak the underlay too much.In either case you should check the machine before taking it home and if adjustable have the options explained to you in the store.Anything for really bad areas?The entrance area is often subject to whatever our shoes collected outside, especially if you have kids or playful dogs.A bit of oil from the road, some sticky residue of something, dust, small gravel and sand....Vacuum out what comes out first, then use a suitable, not too stiff brush if your vacuum cleaner does not have a rotating brush in the head.Use a spray bottle and prepare a solution of warm water with a bit of washing machine powder and a shot glass worth of methylated spirit.Slightly wet the soiled area with the spray bottle without saturating it.Use the brush to agitate the carpet fibres - preferably directional and with even strokes.If they are not wet in the deeper areas spray a bit more.Again: you don't want to soak it you want to wet it.Give it about 20 minutes on a warm day a bit longer if the insede temps are below 25°C.Check with your hand if the area is still wet, the alcohol should speed up the evaporation here.Before it dries up repeat the process and check with a paper towel if it picks up the stains already.If so then run over the area with cleaning machine.Best results are achieved if you manage to get the fibres wet all the way down with the brush and won't let the area fully dry off again after the spraying.How can I speed up the drying time?The only way to speed things up is heat and airflow.If outside humidty is quite high then you will struggle.Even in the summer times the humidity levels over night can get well into or even over the 80% region.Opening doors and windows then to get the carpet dry won't really help you.Best time to clean your carpets is actually at night because by the time you are done the sun is out and the humity levels much lower.On a good day below 30%.This is true even for the winter times.Put a few fans up and make sure the temperatures are well above the 20°C mark.If in doubt you have to turn the heater on.Once the humidity inside is sky high you open up all windows and doors to have an exchange of air.A few minutes suffice here unless there is wind at all.If it is a hot summer day you can of course just let it all open until the sun goes down again.During colder times pay special attention to cold areas, like your toilet, bathroom or in general areas that won't warm up properly.Even if the room was not cleaned the moisture can accumulate here and cause mold and mildew.If in doubt make sure the ENTIRE house is warm enough until your carpets are fully dry again.A humidity sensor or gauge certainly helps, two are better so you can check inside and outside at the same time.
Topic by Downunder35m
I just completely disassembled an old washing machine. I noticed that if I could pop the transmission open and stop it from agitating it should work as a gear reduction drive that I could use for another project I'm working on. Before I get too far into this I figured I'd ask and see if what I want to do is even possible? As I understand it inside the transmission there is a gear with a rod attached kind of like the drive wheel on an old steam locomotive. It seems by either removing that entirely or maybe modifying it I should be able to get it to rotate in a single direction. Anyone with any experience know if this is even plausible?
Question by David Hoskins | last reply
If you have a front loader and found this then most likely you are currently unable to get your washing out of the machine.Welcome to the club!Here is what happened to me, skip this bit if you like:The washing finnished, I try to open the door but nothing.Ok, maybe some electrical bugger somewhere, so knock it a few times but still no go.Mind you that I am in AU now but a long time ago I took my European machine with me - not knowing there won't be any service down here.A quick search on my model and the problem informed me that either the electrical safety lock is faulty or the handle part is broken.The solution to open the door as suggested by the official support:Take the damn thing apart until you get the front off.Unscrew the lock from the inde and then investigate the actual problem.Well, lets just say I was not in the mood to dismantle the entire thing just to open the door, so here is how I did it:Part two: Options to open the door if the handle won't do the trick:Most front loaders are designed to make thing complicated when it comes to the door mechanism.It is considered a safety thing, so tempering from the outside shall be prevented.A faulty electrical lock is rare but I will try this a bit further down.Almost all front loaders use a hook like pin in the door.And once the power was off for a few minutes the safty lock will disengage - if not look further down this text ;)But since the cover is screwed on from the inside of the door you can't get easy access to this locking pin.In some cases you can be lucky and if you look from the side you can see it - if so then try something flat enough (but sturdy) to press it towards the center of the door.For me the problem was the cover really covered it all :(I used some strong, braided fishing line instead to pull on the hook pin.Take a lenght to go all around the door, push the line in where the handle is and guide it around the door.Take both ends together and pull - the door pops open.Be aware though that fishing line can cut into your fingers, so make a loop and a wooden handle or so instead of your fingers ;)Part three: The door is open - what now??Well, if you managed to open the door during part two already then your handle part is clearly broken somewhere.At the hinge should be two (or four) screws with heads that are different to the rest - if in doubt aim for those closest to the hinge.Remove them while supporting the door!Once the screw are out you should be able to get the door off with a bit of wiggling and different opening angles.If not put the screws back in and remove all others first to take the front cover off while you attempt to get the door off.The handle part isusually fixed with screws that hold the cover, so it should come out once all is seperated.With some luck you find a part number on it somewhere on the back, if not check your prefered supplier for a spare.Part four: To repair or to not repair?You might notice that with just the actual locking pin and its frame that screws into the door all would work fine.If really just the handle part is broken while the stronger part for the screws and actual pin is fine:Consider leaving the handle off until you get a spare.The door can be mounted without the actual handle but you need to take the framework apart.Once done you should only have a basic frame to screw into the door with the hook in it but the actual handle is gone.And without the handle you have easy access to the pin - you can even push it with your finger to open the door...But as said, in my case the frame for the door cover blocked this bit too much.For the first wash I used a popstickle stick as it was thin enough...If no spares are available anymore and repairing the broken plasic is not an option either:Part five: For the desperate - modified locking pin.I have seen people placing a bolt into the front of the machine and then literally screwing the door close.The safety was then just bridged of course...This however is not recommended and a bad idea anyway.Much better is to be creative and to use some spare metal or strong plastic like Delrin.Fibreglass re-inforced plastic like from an old sewer box is great too but a pain in terms of protective gear while cutting, drilling and sanding.Either way you should now see the resulting parts of your accident scene.And this of course only works if at least the frame for the pin itself is still intact.The mechnism in the original is a double lever - you pull the handle away from the door and the pin is "rotated" over its pin to move away from the lock.Take the actual locking pin out, trace its shape and on the drawing add a suitable "extension that you can press down (on the outside of the door).In the most basic form a simple straight lever going away from the machine at a 30° angle will do.Cut a cardboard sample to check if you really have enough free movement.If all is good create a copy in the right thickness and put it all back togehter without the broken handle.To open the machine you then just press the lever towards the machine and the door pops open.
Topic by Downunder35m
I have an item that is crocheted. I'd like too give it the felting look. What exactly is felting? How do you felt? Can felting be done outside of the washing machine? How is felting done in the washing machine? Anyone have any idea's? Thanks
Question by lawdog323 | last reply
Hi, I have a washing machine motor that I want to use for some projects of mine, and before I burn it using the wrong voltage, I wanted to ask you guys how it's done right. The motor is from a Whirlpool washer, and it's got 5 wires going in it. From whirlpool's manuals I understand that leads 1,2,3 are the motor windings, and leads 4,5 are the tachometer. The resistance between leads 1 and 2, 1 and 3, and 2 and 3, are all 6 ohms. The attached picture shows the sticker on the motor. My question is, how do I make the motor spin? Do I just plug it to the mains? I'm guessing the tachometer wires are useless to me, since I don't have a control unit, which means I have 3 wires to work with. Also, is there a way to make it spin slower/faster without a control unit? Thanks for the help!
Question by Morgantao | last reply
When felting a wool sweater using hot cycle washing machine method, is it absolutely necessary to dry the item in a dryer afterwards? also, should i cut seams off before or after felting the fabric?
Question by cherishedpotato | last reply
I'd like to make one that uses bike pedal power, derailleur and chain, and not one with a generator, batteries, or electricity. I've seen one online that MIT students created but have not been able to find any plans or directions for making it. Need to make a cheap non-electrical washing machine with rotating barrel/s.
Question by arnold54 | last reply
Question by kijac gang | last reply
About two years ago a friend of mine told me that you could use washing machine drums as charcoal burners. Generally they would be placed on bricks, filled with charcoal and because of the holes in the sides they put out a lot of heat. It just so happened that we had recently had a good marquee blow down and I'd kept the tubing because I'm a bit of a womble (it drives my wife nuts). Anyway I set about building a tripod frame to hold the washing machine drum off the ground. Step by step construction instructions can be found here..: http://theaccidentalartisan.wordpress.com/2011/07/25/buiilding-a-firetub/
Topic by powkesmore | last reply
The ones I have found online just look like large blenders. Has anyone figured out how to hook up a small motor to an agitator and/or barrel or drum? What could you use for the spinner? I'm just chewing on low-cost ideas on how to make a machine I could use in my small trailer.
Question by arnold54 | last reply
I am trying to loosen the hose attached my hot water supply on my old washer and it wont budge. Help! My new washer is waiting.
Question by carol.thon.16 | last reply
I actually have an old Brandt 556T washing machine, and I'm trying to replace the internal mechanical program with an arduino some electronics. Actually I'm trying to directly run the motor at it's both speeds, and both directions. So, the motor is a Selni V689, and I also have another motor laying around. It's a Selni V604. The two of them seems to be using the same wiring. So, for the moment I'm using the older one (the V604) to experiment. After some googling, I understood this kind of motor uses a single capacitor to select the direction of the rotor, and it enables the motor to start without help. We can wire it without the capacitor, and spin it manually to start it, or use the capacitor to start it properly. So, I ended up with the schema linked here. It seems to be working, except for the old V604 which, in second speed, runs faster in one direction that the other... But for the V689, it seems to be okay. I need to ensure that my wiring schema is really ok, then I'll try to use as few relays as possible to be able to fully control this motor with 3.3/5V logic. If anyone can help me confirm that, I'll really appreciate it ! Thank you guys ! NB: I firstly thought there was a problem with the power consumpsion of those motors, but I was wrong, it's fine.
Question by etienne51 | last reply
I have a washer which does NOT make an audible noise when it's finished it's cycle. I would love to figure out a way to be notified when the machine has turned off. The machine has lights which are on during the different cycles, and then turn off when the cycle(s) are complete. I would imagine this could be a way of triggering perhaps and audible queue. I wouldnt really know how to go about getting started with this though or if this is the right approach. This would be a link to what my washer looks like. http://images01.olx.com/ui/4/50/11/1267472745_77434911_2-GE-Electric-Washer-and-Dryer-for-sale-EXCELLENT-condition-Baytown.jpg i would love any assistance for those who may have an idea on how to get started or what sensor(s) i may want/need. Thanks in advance. - James
Question by darlok21 | last reply