We don't want to damage the tile, which is original from the 50s? We don't know how to dismantle plumbing? Ranch-style house.
Question by JackieLove | last reply
We don't want to damage the tile, which is original from the 50s? We don't know how to dismantle plumbing? Ranch-style house.
Question by JackieLove | last reply
So water leaked in to the General Electronic Module (GEM) on my pickup and now it's acting all funny. A/C runs when the ignition is off, randomly switching to 4L, airbag light chattering on and off, etc. I want to try and repair it. My intuition is that it just acts up when there's stray conductivity between traces/elements, so if I give it a good clean and keep it dry it should work like new.However, I noticed upon pulling it apart that there's some corrosion taking place. Can anyone suggest a good way to repair these traces/SMD resistors? I have a soldering iron but heavily oxidized things don't take solder well in my experience. Or should I just put some lacquer on it and not worry about it?Thanks!
Topic by RelaxedSoup | last reply
Question by watts78 | last reply
The floods are abating and our little isle where I live sustained very little damage, but all around me, like a boat on a mount, I see the devestation that was wreaked out on the land. A link to some of the photos of the flood itself. AND A link to what is being discovered as the waters recede....
Topic by Goodhart | last reply
I am a stupid widow who forgot to unhook her hose from the outside bib and now it is frozen on. Should I try to get it off in freezing weather or should I leave it alone till it warms up? Also, how do I even get it off the bib without causing major water damage? Thank you for any help
Question by SandyL50 | last reply
We had a slight roofing problem at work and as a resul a lot of our recently installed LED panel lights got flooded.Now, I though: How hard can it be to fix them....Surprisingly these flat replacements for flouroscent tubes are actually manufactured in a way that you can take them fully apart if you dare.Like some old computer or flat TV screens they use a row of LED's and then some sheets to direct and distribute the emitted evenly throughout the entire panel - like a backlight with no screen.What was a surprise however is the size of the LED's and how they are "soldered".Obviously a mass production in a reflow system.First problem for me was that the LED's used are right between two commonly used SMD sizes.So a 0204 is far to big while a 0102 won't even touch the solder pads.For once I did the smart thing and decided to try to remove at least the clearly faulty and correded bits first and did not order a bunch of LED's...A drop of glue is used to hold the LED's in place until they are soldered.But unlike any glue I encountered for this purpose the stuff won't come off.You can use proper double sided soldering tweezers or a heat gun to soften the solder but the LED itself won't come off.Last resort was to increase the temp of the soldering equippment to soften the glue or to even fully melt it.Lets just say the plastic film making the acutal connections like a circuit board does not tolerate the heat required...I have now a bunch of useless lights, some still working LED power supplies...Was wondering if anyone ever tried to make a backlight screen or one of these panel lights work in reverse?Meaning using natural light on the panel to "collect" it at the thin bit where the LED's were located.Might be useful with some fibre optics or solar cells.Are there other good uses for these films, foils and sheets in a backlight system?Don't want to toss them out only to realise a few weeks later these things are actually good for more things...
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
Question by LordJasper | last reply
Solid brick home has suffered severe winter with water damage causing some bad flaking and literal breakage of bricks in two places. Shallow damage in area of about 3' x 3' on outside of chimney; deeper, more severe damage affecting maybe six bricks in one corner near the ground where large chunks have cracked off. The house is painted brick, built in 1937 with a layer of brick outside, a layer of concrete, and then another layer of brick inside, so the exterior walls are brick clear through to the interior. There is some water leakage into the basement from the corner damage.
Question | last reply
Hi everyone. I have used epoxy to waterproof my RC receivers. I have thought that there is no need to waterproof the connections because it is only 6V and not enough to corrode the connectors. I still want to be able to swap my receivers between models. I have splashed through puddles before but not completely submersed it in water. So is there any reason that I should be waterproofing these connectors? Or is the voltage not enough to cause any problems? Thanks, David.
Question by David97 | last reply
Hi, Can my iphone 6 be fixed after salt water damage? It was sitting in rice for about a week while I was on holiday after salt water got through my waterproof case. After a week I can home and put it in isopropyl alcohol and then let it to dry for 24 hours. This didn't work, opened it up and there's lots of corrosion, one of the connectors has corroded and the battery has corrosion on too. IS this past repair??
Question by mazrl13 | last reply
Okay so my digitial camera has been messed for a while... ever since last year's 4th of july, water damaged because of rain that came out of no where, the only way my camera can turn on or off is too take out the battery and put it back in... it automacticly turns on after i put it in which for me is fine but of course it can be annoying to always have to do that,, so my question is... even after a year since its been damaged by water... is there a way it can be fixed so i dont have to put a battery in and out inorder to power it on and off??
Question by saiyankev | last reply
I recently had the joy of needing a new screen protector for my mobile after being dumb enough to drop it on gravel. The hard cover took all the impact but the film protector on the screen was scratched badly. Was old and partially worn anyway so I decided to upgrade to a Tempered Glass screen protector. Being somewhere rural I had no chance to get one in a shop so I ordered online. With no intention of advertising for some sellers, I collected a few links so you can check what I am talking about: Item1 Item2 Item3 Item4 Item5 Item6 So, what is my concern with these? They all can be found on amazon and other online services as well as on local markets... As I said I ordered a glass screen protector. If you check these listings and even some of the packing you will notice they all have a thing in common - being shatter proof and of 9H hardness. I also love this video showing how to remove and fix a glass screen protector! The last time I checked glass had one very distinct feature: It is hard and before it really bends it breaks - unless you use fibre optics of fibre glass cloth... What is my concern and warning here? Pretty simple: Stay away from expensive scams! Some claim their screen protector is only 0.25mm thick, even the 0.2mm one I measured was over 0.5mm with the glue... The hardness of 9H refers to the so called Moh's hardness - look it up on Wikipedia if you like. That means these tempered glass protectors would have a similr hardness than a diamond, or at least close to it. Problem is that they are made from plastic to start with and not glass at all. They claims that the screen protector is flexible because it is so thin - again a fake! Even the thinnest tempered glass will shatter if you bend it enough, not so these plastic ones. If you think I am making all this up try to use a really sharp knife or deburring tool and cut the thin sides of one of these protectors. All the ones I tested could be cut quite easy - and I though glass can't be cut with a kinfe... A nice website showing that the scratch resistance is far from the claims can be found here. And a video showing how a real glass screen protector sounds and breaks can be found here. So is it really all bad and should I avoid getting one? Not really if it is only for the added protection. To be clear here, and without the intention to blame any of the above sellers, some protectors actually do have a top layer made from glass and you can hear it as in the above video - it sound solid and not like plastic if you tap it with something hard. Another factor is the simple fact that plastic absorbs impact much better than glass. So where a real glass screen protector might shatter and crack like in the above video, the fake ones might one get a nasty dint or scratch. But you should be aware and clear about what you get and what to expect from it. These glass imitations are made from a strong polycarbonate plastic, similar to the stuff used for bullet and explosion proof "glas" windows - if you every watched the Mythbusters you have seen the big sheets I mean. The top layer of these things is specially treated to repell water, oil and dirt, it also gives the surface the good scratch resistance. The technique is nothing new, camera lenses, plastic sheets and the clear covers you see over the timetable at your bus stop all use it. The new thing is to intentionally mislable a product to make the consumer think it is glass ;) What is the real difference for the user? Check this video. Here a guy performs a drop test with a real glass screen protector. Thing is once the protector breaks the screen itself is broken too but until then it was not too bad. Here it is demonstrated how a real glass screen protector reacts to certain types of abuse - one of the reason I decided on glass. Compared to the plastic counterfeits just the sound on the glass is worth it, but I think the hacksaw was best. Another video from XDA gives a bit more info on how the glass is made - if you can't seeing a phone being abused then don't watch the drop tests at the end ;) Glass with these hardness levels and types of surface protection will give the user a long and worry free use of the phone. The plastic fakes will perform at a similar level for some time but will show signs of wear long before even the top coat of the glass one fails. Both types have their uses and if the fakes would be labeled correctly the user would actually benefit from that. On bigger screens like a tablet I would actually prefer the plastic ones to prevent damage once it needs replacing. On a mobile used in less than perfect conditions I would also go for plastic as it usually is a bit thinner and will fit better within quality hard covers. But when it comes to real abuse like using with dirty fingers most of the time or mostly outdoors where a lot of dust and fine sand can be involved I always go for glass. If you paid attention to the surface treatment then you already realised that the plastic and the glass are in the same region, making them quite scratch resistant. Still fine sand or metal dust will scratch it.... The difference is in the hardness of the actual material that was covered with the oleophobic film. Glass will not give in any way, where plastic is much softer - so not to be confused with the surface hardness! This mean that sharp and point object will easier penetrate the plastic than the glass, something to be considered if you often ecounter harsh use. In terms of actual protection we need to differenciate between surface quality and actual screen damage. After all when badly scratched we can replace the protector but if the display got damaged we are back to square one. The surface hardness was already covered so let's move on to the screen itself. In some of the above videos you can see the abuse a screen might see in normal conditions, and if we would not drop our phones so often repair shops would not be at every corner LOL I have done quite a few screen repairs, mostly for friends and work mates that did not want to pay the hefty extras in a repair shop. From there I got the stories on how it happened and in almost all cases the screen cracked when the phone landed on the corners. In one case the screen and glass protector failed, including the actual display when the phone was dropped out of a 4WD and landed screen first onto a rock. A glass protector will spread the (direct onto the face) impact force onto a much larger area, where a plastic one will produce a dint onto the actual screen much sooner. So again glass wins in terms of actually protecting your expensive screen. But be aware that all this is useless if the phone lands on the corners!! Let me explain: Both the top glass on your screen and the screen protector have a thin layer of "glue". This acts like a shock absorber, so unless an impact goes deep enough so the pressure on the actual screen is too much only the protector should fail. But the screen itself is a tight fit into the frame of the phone, so all side and corner impacts go directly into the glass. As the rest of the glass has no way to give or go the stresses will crack the screen. How should I treat my phone with the new screen protector? Exactly the same way you would without it of course. But if you don't have a proper cover that offers protection of the corners you should invest in one. Having a quality protector and a good case does not mean your phone can be used as a football, see it as an added insurance in case something does go wrong. For obvious reason it can also pay off to have a spare at hand, if something bad happens that requires replacement of the protector you won't be left with an unprotected screen ;) Last but not least, double it up: For people that already know their screen will see a fair bit of abuse in term of scratches it is a good idea to put an extra film protector onto the glass one. Once it is too scratched you peel it off and replace it, while the glass protector gives you the actual protection for your screen. Corning Willow glass As time of wrinting Corning Willow glass is the only "flexible" glass on the market, unless stated with your flexible screen protector you can assume it will be just plastic. I did not list it above as this high tech material is mainly reserved for displays and at least to my knowledge is not available for screen protectors, although I will stand corrected as I have to assume some big players use it for their protectors. The material is actually a sandwich where an ultra thin sheet of glass stis bewteen two layers of durable coating, read it up on their website it is quite interesting. It won't reach the strength of their famous Gorilla glass so without an outer plastic that has the additional oleophobic coating it won't provide the strenght of real tempered glass protectors. Some phones like the Galaxy Round and the fleixble HTC phones use it for example.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I would like to use bike gears to switch gears eighter clockwise, or counterclockwise on a vertical axis windmill for pumping water. The purpose is to slow down the speed of the spinging rotor or switch it intoa idler gear, to allow the rotor to keep spinging, and to disconnect the water pump, so it wont' be damaged in high winds; Also not to slam the rotor to a sudden stop, by ingageing a brake. I am building this not only for myself, but also my church for them to give away free to needly people around the world. Thank you for any and all help in this matter.
Question by robertbarfield | last reply
I have got a soldering iron of 60W, (with a damaged tip). And the main purpose of this project is to make a low power water or coffee heater with things you already have. Im not a tech savy, but i know that the iron has a 2 pin socket. So, if you dip it directly in water, u'll get a shock if you touch the water. Another modification is needed- the heating rod. the rod is made of crude iron, which can easily rust, and the tip has some leftover solder, which can poison the coffee. can someone help in this?
Topic by arnab321 | last reply
Dell XT2 laptop. I would be very grateful for couple of advices. Is there a way of not spreading upper crack during everyday usage like a black hole in "Dark Water" ?
Question by DDevilPL | last reply
I acquired a nice set of drums from my nephew. Dixon 5 drums and 5 cymbals. 2 cymbals are Sabian B8 with fingerprints all over. Some cleaned up with water but most are "etched?" in. What is the best cleaner to use without damage.
Topic by AntRRmam | last reply
I stacked some galvanized tin roofing sheets outside. Water got trapped between the sheets. This resulted in surface rust and some oxidation. The sheets are20 ft long. The damage covers about 15% to 20% of all the surface combined. Is there a product that I can use to repair the damage?
Question | last reply
We bought a house last year that had some water damage on the cellar walls. Last summer I redid the drainage around the house as I suspected that that was the reason for the damage. I am now setting out to repair the inside damage. I should not that I noticed no damage to the outside walls while redoing the drainage. The inside wall damage consists of 'blistering' and loose light cement/plaster. The cinder blocks seem to be fine and I have not found mold. I have scraped away the loose stuff and will now patch the holes. I have been told to use a polymer-based household cement but would like to ask the instructable community for advice. I basically have to resurface parts fo the walls and patch a few deep holes. How should I do this? Thank you.
Topic by Crackpot | last reply
Topic by SHIFT!
I am trying to disassemble my Alltel LG ax 260 bl candy bar phone. It obtained water damage. I successfully removed back case and dried it in rice overnight. It turns on and can even call and receive calls but the send button and 7 button do not function so i can only call out from the call history section without using the send buttion. can anyone tell me how to unlock the top and bottom of the slide phone feature. ?? thank u.
Question | last reply
I'm rehabbing an RV. It has a 100 gallon fresh water tank made out of plastic (polyethylene). The tank has four built in sensors on the side of it, 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, I assume these sensors are just a bolt sticking through the side into the water. How can I make a simple indicator panel which will light up an LED for 25%, 50%, and 75%? I doubt I'd just be able to use the electrical conductivity between the 0% sensor and the other three, as the electrical resistance would be too high to send any usable connection through the water, am I correct? But maybe something based on capacitance? Anyone know how to build something like that? My skills are too rusty to think that through. Maybe I could cannibalize the sensor out of one of those touch sensitive table lamps and use it as the basis for my indicator panel? I'd prefer not to use an arduino or pi for this, I need something incredibly simple and robust. I realize those would do the job but I need the quick and dirty solution. Thanks in advance for your help. EDIT: Here is a webpage that talks in depth about the standard tank monitors and how to upgrade it with an Arduino. Unfortunately, this seems incredibly over engineered for this task and I don't have the liberty of spending the time to do this, as I am working with a tight deadline. But it does discuss the resistor network which was originally used with the sensors on the tank. Since the original display panel on mine was too damaged to save, I thought it wouldn't be too hard to rig up something simple to replace it. http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27/diy-capacitive-tank-sensor-1177-2.html
Question by JimTheSoundman | last reply
Hello Everyone, I want to screw two parts of aluminium 2014 together ..... one is a hollow cube with at-least 5 mm shell width without the top face and one is it's cap/metal sheet with 3 mm height with holes for two m12 to 8mm pneumatic fittings through which pipes will be connected... it is actually a water block ,cooling a part of my next project.. so i want to ask which kind of adhesive or gasket should i use in between them while screwing those two pieces together so that water or any other coolant doesn't leaks from the block and damages the electronic components. A non-native English speaker here, please ignore grammatical mistakes. :)
Question by _Boltz_ | last reply
Help! I'm at my Mom's house and I heard a water drip, then a trickle and now its a steady stream of water leaking from below the sink! I know my Momma's got some water damage under there but I just need a quick fix until she can get the bigger problem resolved. Here are some pics of the problem. It seems to be leaking from the top, what should I buy to seal this off? Any particular brand that you guys know of that will work for sure?? Thanks!
Topic by zurichko | last reply
Hello! For a project that i will transform into an instructable I would need a color with following properties: - Stick to metal - Possible to remove using solvents - Water resistant - possibly sprayable - Protect sprayed material from direct contact with water. (not long term.. half an hour is enough.. ) - NOT heat resistant. if heated the color should be damaged and come off the metal without the use of any solvents. - must be as dark as possible any Idea of what could be used? Thanks!
Topic by sharkyenergy | last reply
Hey i was soldering a circuit with out a eye protections and then the smoke which came out make my eyes itching and then i washed it with water and later my eyes was all red and started to itch. So i was wondering if this could do any damage to my eyes ?
Topic by arylic | last reply
Neither the ice barrier or the felt was brought down over the edge of the plywood on the rake edge of the house before the drip edge was installed. Will these punctures enable the water to get to the plywood and swell it or cause leaks? This was a re-roofing with a complete tear-off. These holes were in the over hang part of the drip edge, not where the drip edge was intended to be nailed to fasten it to the roof. You can see the holes from the ground. Thanks, Bill
Question by billygale | last reply
Moved into a new flat and they're into water conservation. Great. Has a low flow showerhead. Fine. Except that it's got the worst design known to mankind with hideously low water pressure and an unadjustable spray that conveniently directs the water everywhere but you. The problem is that this craptastic showerhead is cemented to the pipe with what appears to be fossilized plumber's putty. I can't cut the pipe, as the internet suggests, because this is an apartment and they will rain brimstone and damage fees down upon me. So, the question: 1. How do you get rid of seriously ancient and hardened plumber's putty? 2. If you can't, how might you make an attachment to go over a showerhead that could improve water pressure or at least improve the direction of the spray without decreasing water pressure?
Question by TheJenx | last reply
I got diagnosed with a damaged L5 and L6 disc in my lower back about 8 years ago and I thought writing about my experience might helps others facing the same problems. Keeping your back straight when lifting or moving heavy things was a thing I already learned and followed during my school times and as you might have guessed it helped to keep my back healthy - at the expense of my knees... But the knees are a different story, today I want to help you understand lower back problems caused by damaged or bulging discs and how this will affect your life. For me it began with a little shock. One day I got out of bed, wanted to grab something I dropped and got stuck half way up. Knowing that there are some nerves that can cause the same issue and that a simple injection will fix me I called a cab to be dragged laying down on the back seat to my GP. As you might have guessed his diagnosis was a bit worse than what I wanted to hear... Many painful hours and some scans later it was confirmed that my L5 and L6 disk have collapsed on one side and started to push on the nerves next to it. Funny side not that I never really checked was that my doc said not everyone has a L6 disk... Anyways, as with most first "accidents" involving your lower back the so called recovery was long and painful. Sure the painkillers help to numb the worst, the anti inflammatory stuff covers some pain too but actually I did not want the full pain free package deal. Pain is the bodies way to let you know something is wrong, so I kept the pain medication at a level where I got that information when making a wrong move... The first 6 months I was literally confined to my bed, the shower and the toilet. I tried to keep a position with the least amount of pain for as long as possible and for obvious reasons was not too happy that my body not only required food intake but also the disposal of the waste products - getting out of bed and onto the toilet meant experiencing huge amounts of pain every time. But after those 6 months I started to adjust, to the pain as well as what my limited body was now capable of in terms of movement. Needless to say that all this time of not doing anything really meant my scale started to scream tripple digets at me one day... Luckily around the same time my pain levels went to a level that allowed my to walk around 500-600 at slightly slower speeds than normal before the pain got too much. My doctor also got quite concerned about my blood work and body weight recommending to loose a lot if I every intent to get back to a more normal life. So I started to walk several times a day, no matter how bad the weather was, just a bit up and down the street. The distance got longer, the fitness a bit better and the pain levels a bit lower too. Using my old weight lifting belt to keep the back supported helped me a lot during these times, especially when driving or doing housework. During those times I was still on 6-8 panedine forte tablets (paracetamol and codein) plus 2-4 tablets of 20mg oxicontin and not happy about the last anyway. Despite the added levels of pain I started to reduce the level of oxicontin and started to exercise more. My focus was getting the core muscles stronger and to get better support for my back. Also started riding my bike again, although I had to replace it for a bigger model to allow me a more upright position with less stress on the lower back. The kilos started to tumble very slowly but I was already quite proud when I got bak to 90kg. :( Good thing was that I got motivation to continue as every kg I lost and every little bit more on distance I got out of my walks and rides without getting too painful also meant that my average pain level went down too. Two years after it all happened I got rid of the oxicontin completely and reached the 80kg mark. My doc was happy too, my blood work looking good but of course he still suggested to loose a few more kg. Being able to move around again also meant being able to work again and with that came more food, less exercise and a lot more stress. I did manage to hold my 80kg but after about 6 months or working I noticed my back problems started to limit me again. My back belt covered for me and I was able to keep going a while longer but in the end I got hit by another attack on my back. The diagnosis was not good at all as now on top of the pain goind through the back and leg I also hab numbness and a feeling like ants crawl over the leg and chew on it every few mm. As with most lower back "revenges" this one only needed strong pain killers for a few weeks until I was back to something more normal in terms of pain and movability. Sadly the ongoing side effects did not go away the way they did the first time. This meant especiall finding the right position to sleep with the least amount of pain was becoming a nightmare on it's own. Either you got pins and needles keeping you awake, you lost your feeling in the leg to the point where it becomes useless or the pain in the back is just stabbing you all the time. Starting some projects here on Instructables kept my mind busy and gave me some welcome distraction from the daily routine. Eventually I manged to find a job again that allowed me to have enough different movements with only a bit of lifting so things started get back to normal. My doc put me on some amitriptyline to help with the pain at night and although it took some time to get used to the stuff it really started to help after about two weeks. The job was only for a fixed term but it gave me back some confidence that not all is bad or lost. Life went on and I actually manged to get down to just 75kg and only used some painkillers once or twice a week if it was really bad. Then, a few weeks back I started to notice that the top of my foot and the outside of my leg felt different to touch, especially in the shower with some brush or rough sponge. Not being happy already I agreed to some new scans to check if the discs started to cause problems or if the nerves are just inflamed. You might have guessed already, the scan confirmed that my two discs desintegrated further putting more pressure on the already suffering nerves. With the "help" of some quite strong anti inflammatory stuff, cortisone and other meds my doc managed to get me back to "normal" but he also informed me that this won't last forever. The current outcome (without surgery but more on that later on) I have two choices to keep going: a ) I continue with pain killers and other meds to keep the problems at bay. b ) I limit myself to basically not doing anything involving the movemnt of my lower back, keep to a strict calory intake and hope for the best. The first option won't do me any good in the long run except liver, kidney and digestive problems. The second option will allow me some sort of a normal life at the expense of never finding a job to support me again. So once again we soldier on knowing that it will only make things worse as giving up and relying on social services is no option for me. Hoping that you might just had your first encounter with lower back injuries and pain I will give some advise on the things that helped my most so that you might not have to suffer as much I did and still do. So read on please... Diagnosed with a damaged or bulged disc in the lower back - what does it acutally mean? If you check all the available images of the human skelleton you will quickly notice one thing: Our lower back is not really straight and not designed to carry a lot weight when it is put on the wrong way or direction. Noone with a sane mind would use a support beam shaped like that but the human body adapted to this problem caused by changing from using all four limbs to walking on just two legs. The muscles and tendons in our back work in such a way that they support the fragile construction of discs and bones that keep us upright. Sadly modern life, personal decisions and only too often a busy work shedule prevent us from using our body the wa we should. Be it too much lifting, being far too short for your weight or simply laziness the factors causing our muscle to degrade are too many to count. But once you are in the worst pain you ever felt and your doc tells you that there are damaged discs you suddenly wish you had it all done differently years ago - trust me, I have been there and I have done it ;) Or it might be like in my case that a healthy and fit person just cracks one or more discs for no obvious reason. Either way it means you have to change your life to be able to keep going. Pain killers help to ignore the problem and pretend all is good but they should be used with great care as most are highly addictive and the long term side effects are no fun either. The one thing you must never forget is although being a life sentence it must not mean you will be crippled forever! What can I do once it happened to help the pain and my sanity? Nerve pain is one of the worst pains there is and there are only two more or less working medications to deal with it. The first meds are opiates to literally numb the pain but due to source of the pain very high levels are required until the body adapted to deal with the wrong pain information. The second group of meds that offer help and that are often used together with pain killers are old sty anti depressants like the try-cyclic (was that right?) amitriptyline. Back in the days they were not really good for the advertised job but one of the common side effects was how they worked on the pain centers of the brain. In much lower dosages as used to treat depressions these meds help the brain to deal with the pain caused by the damaged or pinched nerves. As a long term solution they should be prefered over opiates so that the strong pain killers are only taken when really needed. If you are anything like me than not getting enough sleep over weeks on end will take a toll on your mood. So being able to sleep at least a few hours in one go is a real thing to aim for unless you prefer to harm your body with pain killers. What is there to help with the pain so you can sleep? I know that you now already think you tried it all and that nothing good comes out of here but keep reading as you might be surprised... The first thing that jumps into mind when it comes to sleeping is a bed - be it you by yourself or with a partner. And here also is the first point to improve! In many countries a bed for two persons has one bad feature: A single mattress! Any movement from the person next to you is transfered more or less onto your body - you don't want that! So if you own a big bid that you share with someone think about investing into a bed with seperated matresses and support frames. That brings us to the mattress itself. A lot of people think being soft and flexible is a prefered thing, not so much if you have back problems. You want enough support to keep the back straight without everything feeling like you sleep on wooden floorboards. Keep in mind though that when changing from soft matress to something much firmer you will need to adjust. Really the best option is to seek professional advise in a bedding studio or similar. And no, you don't have to go to the most expensive place to buy a mattress, you just try them out, get expert advise and use that new knowledge to find a suitable mattress to fit the budget. With no offence meant: If you are over the normal weight you really want to loose the excess and that means selecting a new matrress on your weight goal and not on your current weight! It is also good to have adjustable supports under the mattress itself, this way you choose a thinner and bit softer mattress but still get the firmness your back requires - again seeking proffessional advise on the right combinations is highly recommended here! Ok, your bed is sorted but still there is that nagging pain in certain positions or the tingling in your leg preventing you to go to sleep. Believe it or not but what you do before you go to bed affects how you feel when you hit the sack. So sitting like a bag full of water in front of your TV until just manage to crawl into bed won't do you any good. Same for having your dinner and hour or two before bedtime... What does help is to move your body and to burn a few kalories! If it helps you use a weight lifting belt but just a walk around the block with a little bit of bending and flexing will get the tension out of muscles. A nice partner giving you a proper massage might help too but I doubt you will get one every night ;) And before you start to complain: Yes, I know there are times where simply can't do any exersise as you will be happy to make it to the toilet or to make some dinner. For those times and especially during times of experiencing higher than normal pain level ther is something you can do to ease the pain. Some doctors will tell you but a lot of them wont: Cold actually helps to numb the pain and the symptoms like tingling, pins and needles or the constant stabbing when you made a slightly wrong move. But you need to apply the cold in the right way to get the benefit! The key here is timing. Using real ice in a suitable wrapper, so no vegetables or meat, you apply the cold where the damage is - not where the pain is! You want to cool down the area around the damaged discs for about 5 to max 10 minutes. Put the icepack back and repeat every hour! Nothing will happen after the first two or three round but then you will notice improvement - how much depends on the individual and extend of the damage of course. When I have bad days I usually start around mid-day and keep going every hour until either the pain is gone or it is time to drag myself to bed. The worst you can do is o apply heat! A warm (not hot!) bath can help to ease some muscular tension but hot packs or heat lamps will make your pain get worse quickly. Just imagine and inflammation somehwere else, the area is already hot and painful so you really don't want to add more heat, do you? ;) What can be done to keep mobile and improve? As said earlier the key is support for the damaged areas and of course a limitation in movements that put additional stress on the damaged dics - this includes weight, be it from your own body in terms of excess fat or simply be lifting things! You will have times of no pain and where you think you are 20 years younger again but never use that as an excuse to think your discs have improved! Once damaged they stay damaged and everything putting more stress on you dsic(s) will make things worse. A friend of mine loves to play golf - if you have back problems you want to find a different hobby! Coming from three digits I can tell you without being offensive in any way that being fat means having problems that you don't want to add to your list caused by a bad back! So like it or not you really need to loose all the excess you can find wobbling around your body! For me every single kg I lost was a step forward to being more fit and being able to more things for longer before my pain got too much. And no, there is no excuse for keeping those kilos if are able to leave the bed for more than a few hours. Turst me, you will feel better, need far less medication and like yourself much better once the benfits of less weight kick in! Exercise is the key to getting your life back to a more or less normal level! If you are a "first offender" than you have a good chance that a change of habbit and maybe job will make sure it stays a single incident and that you can have a pain free life after the initial recovery! Getting a higher core strenght and overall fitness level helps your body to heal but most importantly gives you the option to gain muscles where needed to support your back. You might think there is nothing you can do if you are in pain and can't really move anyway but if you do then you are wrong. I am not a personal trainer but I found a lot of ways to use my muscles without using my back for it... There is enough info on the web for exercise methods without any training gear and if you think "really hard" you might notice you can use a lot of positions to exercise your arms and legs without stressing you back ;) And even for the back you can do good without damage: If you lay flat on your belly you just slightly lift your arms and legs off the ground - this will need the support of the muscles in lower back! No need to actuall lift anything high, just enough to only slightly bend your back up - you might not even notice any bending at all. What you don't want is exercise like running, jogging or even contact sports, really nothing that might force your back to move more than what is possible without stressing your discs... Better fitness and more strenght means you will get better flexibility and movablity but never let that fool you into thinking the damage is gone! I can not stress enough than even if you don't need medication and feel fine a single wrong move can make all null and void! What are the options if despite loosing weight and excercise my pain is not going away or syptoms get worse? Well, we can ignore it, we can hope it all goes away but the sad reality for most is that sooner or later you reach the point where the damage is too much too handle. The first one to tell you that your lower back is now due for a pit stop is your foot. The pain might be more than what you ever experienced the pins and needles might drive you mad but as long as it just that you are fine, really :( For me it was during some light gradening when I got my "first hit" so to say. I brushed it off thinking I tripped over something that got kicked away while I struggled to keep my balance. A few days later I noticed that I had to put some extra efford to prevent my toes from scraping the floor while walking. It was there when I also realised that most of the feeling on top of my foot was gone. Same story for the outside of my calf by the way... For me, thanks to a non working medical system and no private health cover the story ends here... Since you might have more luck: Modern medicine has gone a long way when it comes to minimal invasive operations and they are the key to performing operations that otherwise would be impossible or require months of recovery. For the "treatment" of damaged discs in the lowest part of the spinal area the old conventional treatment was to fuse the bones together using some steel or titanium rods. To give the patient relief the dmaged disc was more or less mutilated to free the damaged nerve(s). Several weeks of bed rest and great loss in movement was the price to pay for less pain. Today we are much further and can use micro instruments to perform operations deemed impossible only a few years ago. One of the operations with the greatest and fastest recovery rates is actually quite smart if you think about it: A small portion of bone is removed to give more room for the nerve and to aid in the healing - without fusing the bones! The next step is remove the part of the disc that is bulging out - without removing the strong support layers around it, only the mashed up bits are taken away. The patient is literally pain free ( from the back pain) right after the operation. Healing takes about 2-3 weeks but by then even the pain from the cut bones will be gone. Some health insurers see these operations as a means to get a person back to work and into a normal life, so they support it. Others use simple math and decide pain killers are cheaper... In any case you should seek professional advice from your doc and health care provider before it is too late! Diagnosed and operated early can mean you get the option to have an almost normal life again, or at least a few years of being able to enjoy life much more than before the operation. There are of course risks involved and an opration might not be an option for every case but knowing your options and what form of treatment might be available for you can be reall life changing... Ok, but what's the worst that can happen to me if a simple operation is no longer an option? One of the first things you will notice after loosing control and feeling for your foot is a more or less contant need to go the toilet. Despite having an empty bladder or just using the toilet minutes ago you can develop the feeling that you really must go the toilet again. Sadly this is only the beginning... If things get worse you can loose control over your bladder and bowel. Simply put it means you no longer control the muscular tension required to keep you vital openings closed when required. Usually at this point your doctor will recommend to operate one way or the other. For you, if affected, this means you have to decide between the risk of an operation that might only last for a few months or years or wearing adult nappies... If you already had one or more operation or the damage to the disc(s) is too severe it can mean that there is no other option but to fuse the bones into place to prevent further damage and allow for some healing. But trust me, for your doc to even consider an operation you need to loose all the weight you can! What are my limitations after having my back bones fused together? Well, as it reads you will be fused together, meaning you level of movement will be severly limited. It also means you beep all the time at the airport security or when entering a court or other place with metal detectors - but that is the least of the worries I guess... The main problem after such operations is getting back to a life as normal as possible. You get a lot of help in rehab and will learn what you can and can't do, plus of course how to keep you fit despite these limits. Some people cope really good with the new limitations but others struggle a lot. This especially true if before the person was really active and doing a lot in terms of sport and outdoor activities. Learning to adapt to the changes allows you have many more years without too much pain or limitations. Sure, Golf is out of the question, playing soccer or riding a normal bike too but life goes on and being a part of it is always better than just looking at it through your bedroom window ;) In any case giving up should not be an option for you! No matter how bad it looks when the pain is too much, there are always more good days than bad days ahead of you! Go ahead, share your experience with back pain, what you do keep going and handle the pain. Share you information about what treatments helped you the most and share how you recovered to where you are now. Be an inspiration for those facing what we already went through! Real back pain based on nerve damage will only be understood by someone who experienced it - what did you do to make the people around you understand it? Whatever helped you might help someone wha just started to learn how to deal with damaged discs and back pain, so sharing is caring! ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
My Maytag washer runs cold water constantly, will not turn off. We were doing some laundry and fortunately my wife was doing some other chores in the basement or our finished basement would have been flooded. I have not attempted anything as yet, but I do want to make the repairs myself if possible. I suspect a stuck solenoid or valve on the cold water side. Please advise the proper way to get into this area without damaging the machine. I am handy with tools and repairs around the home.
Question by Debra kay | last reply
For experimental purposes i want to remove the ferrite core from a flyback transformer. I want to be able to remove it without damaging the primary or secondary windings. I don't care if the core is ruined. Someone suggested boiling the transformer in water. Has this been successfully done or is this an untried suggestion?
Question by Blake | last reply
In cold climes, snow buildup on roofs often leads to ice dams, usually at the gutter. When the snow melts, the dam can route water under roof shingles and cause roof damage.Is Calcium Chloride safe to use on roofs? (Sodium Chloride is not, due to it's corrosiveness.)
Question by gmoon | last reply
Ok, so I am within about a day of etching my iPod via saltwater. I am going to attempt to just let the clip (backside) of it rest in the water, using contact paper to guard against water damage to my circuit board. That is one option. The other is to remove the circuit from my iPod, leaving just the case. I've never done this, but have a guide. Do you think it'd be worth it to dismantle the player? Any, and I do mean any, suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
Topic by Bran | last reply
After a conversation with ll.13, I have come to the shocking realization that many people don't know about the deadly poison that is pumped into our water supply. It's called DiHydrogen Monoxide, and it is very dangerous. Look at some of the dangers associated with DHMO.Death due to accidental inhalation of DHMO, even in small quantities.Prolonged exposure to solid DHMO causes severe tissue damage.Excessive ingestion produces a number of unpleasant though not typically life-threatening side-effects.DHMO is a major component of acid rain.Gaseous DHMO can cause severe burns.Contributes to soil erosion.Leads to corrosion and oxidation of many metals.Contamination of electrical systems often causes short-circuits.Exposure decreases effectiveness of automobile brakes.Found in biopsies of pre-cancerous tumors and lesions.Given to vicious dogs involved in recent deadly attacks.Often associated with killer cyclones in the U.S. Midwest and elsewhere, and in hurricanes including deadly storms in Florida, New Orleans and other areas of the southeastern U.S.Thermal variations in DHMO are a suspected contributor to the El Nino weather effect.The scariest part is that most people don't even know what it is! One poor sap actually ingested it, AND instructed others to do so in his instructable here.You can find out more about this deadly compound at DHMO.org.Be aware and stay alive!
Topic by Gjdj3 | last reply
I spilled a root beer float in my Saitek cyborg keyboard, which resulted in sticky keys everywhere. I rinsed it under water once and now all the keys work fine, except the '2' and 'X' keys. How can I clean these two without risking damage to my keyboard?
Question by The Daft | last reply
I need to know how to install a water system from my well asap. Full details of hookup. I have an existing well with a submerged pump in it, but don't know if pump still works. Presently digging it out to put power to it and find out. Water "spout" coming out of ground also plugged and am trying to clear. I have a pressure tank ordered that I hope will work. Pipe to house all ready dug, checking patency and damage. If pump doesn't work, is it repairable?, ie., how does it work so I can repair. How does pressure tank work? Any tips to make this easier are greatly appreciated. I am senior, disabled gal who is at war with water company because they are partially, if not completely, responsible for my house burning down a few months ago. I lost everything. I am OK with a good basic knowledge of mechanics, but this has me stumped, pls offer any comments that will help. I am not the only person of my community victimized by our county government. RClark0240@att.net
Question by RClark0240 | last reply
Oops, so I posted this in Outdoors before I found Home. Double posting is irritating but it's kind of relevant to both... I'm new to the forums here (long time reader, infrequent poster), if I just committed a major faux pas, gimme a heads up and I'll take one of these down! Anyway, so the back door of my 3rd floor apartment opens on to what amounts to a raised back yard; the only problem is that this "back yard" is the roof of a 2 story addition to the brownstone I live in, and I'd rather not put my foot through a very expensive roof. I've been looking into decking, and right now my plan is a contact-only solid frame all the way around the perimeter of the roof, with a lip extending over the edge of the roof (to supply stability without puncturing the membrane) connecting to the actual frame of the deck which would of course be placed over the top of the brick walls of the building. From there I was going to face the deck with synthetics, probably with struts placed along the horizontal struts of the roof connected to both the upper deck and sub-deck cross bracing (depending on what materials I use/can afford and their relative strength). My hope is to find a way to make the deck in modular pieces that can be removed for when the roof inevitably needs to be resurfaced. So basically it would be large squares (or irregular shapes, whatever) that would sit on top of the struts/cross bracing with the help of a few screws and provide the deck surface. What I'm worried about is water intrusion at the contact points, such as around the edge of the roof and on top of the studs in the middle of the roof. I know synthetics are much more resistant to this type of failure than older materials, but are they impervious? Where do the pros put contacts so water doesn't leak into the floor below? Even if you minimalize it, the deck will have to come into contact with the roof at some point, or you've found some fancy new way of building I'd love to hear about. A few other thoughts are footprint: the building is an 1890 Richmond row house, could this be done with a small enough profile to increase the value of the property without damaging the "drive by" value? (I was picturing an iron railing to keep the project semi period, and this roof actually connects to the big hulking wooden fire escape, so it wouldn't be marring a virgin landscape) Also, do you think any building codes in the country would allow L bracing and big old bolts to hold the structure of the deck together instead of end-nailing the boards? It would make removal for roof work a lot easier. For the corners, would it be better to miter the ends at 45 and run a bolt through the two of them, end nail an L joint or use a thick metal l bracket and a few bolts to hold the joint together? That was kind of an intense post, I'm just looking to shoot the breeze a little bit with anyone who has any thoughts. Everybody always has their perfect way of doing things, on such a big, high pressure job (if this goes south I'd be poor AND homeless!) I want to really chew on the idea a little bit first. Thanks to anyone who actually read this far!
Topic by Macadaciouse | last reply
I find myself in the possession of some slightly used binoculars that were damaged in a water storm so there is some fogging still but that can be worked with. I have thught about making monoculars out of them for birding but was wondering what otehr ideas people might have? Looking forward to reading your thoughts/ CheersJ
Question by jjbdiy | last reply
I had a roof leak that dripped onto a matte I was preparing for a photo project. It has created a little bubble. I am wondering if anyone knows an easy way to fix this little trouble spot? I'd rather not have to get a whole new matte.
Question by DanielU19 | last reply
, OK, this may now look really messed up, but here's the body: Hi, I have a few things I've loved and cherished over time that are our of service for one reason or another, and I'd really like to find some repurposing ideas for these wonderful techonolgies. I have an ipod classic 80gb (broken internal ribbon cable, maybe hdd,; ipod touch 8gb (fried ..water damage), BB pearl 8100 Same: water damage and just old, used the hell out of it...: Epson inkjet printers, basic modern freeby printers that I never use because ink is too expensive.... So I love this site, and thought there would be a place somewhere for some dedicated repurposing of things such as these. If anyone can point me to this area of the site, if it exists, I'd be super happy and thnakful, and apologize for this messy post.. OK sorry, this may not come out well. Using google chrome. Can't see anything I'm typing into the message body!!. Hi allHi allHi alls
Topic by joknrok
Overheating of the engine not only occurs in the summer, but can also occur in daily driving. In particularly, high-speed running cars, engines, and air-conditioning systems can cause boiling phenomenon when the water temperature is too high. It's dangerous to overheat the engine. It may hard luck that what can damage the engine. When driving on highways at a higher speed, or when climbing a car, if the pointer of the water temperature gauge enters the red zone and stays high, appropriate measures should be taken at this time. Here's how to handle the engine overheating.There are many causes of overheating, including insufficient coolant, cooling fan cooling the coolant has failed, thermostat failure, and coolant temperature sensor failure. If you deal with it improperly, it can lead to an expensive engine failure. Therefore, timely detection and proper disposal of overheating can effectively reduce losses.First, poor engine cooling: Poor engine cooling can cause the water temperature in the tank to be too high. When longer the water tank is used, the more internal scale will build up, resulting in poor heat dissipation in the radiator. The water with too high temperature will not release heat, and it will evolve into a "pan". In addition, the ventilation hole of the radiator is also a common cause of poor heat dissipation. If the external blockage is not ventilated, use a water gun to clean it up. If the inside of the radiator is blocked, then clean it with a cleaning solution. Second, the cooling system is not working properly, resulting in poor heat dissipation. At this time, check the tightness of the fan belt and whether the fan blades are deformed or broken.Third, the thermostat automatically adjusts the amount of water entering in to the radiator according to the temperature of the cooling water, so as to ensure that the engine works within a suitable temperature range, which can play a role in saving energy consumption. If the engine is overheated, check that the thermostat is working properly. Starts at 70°C and fully open at 83°C. When the height of the fully opened valve is not less than 9 mm, the thermostat can be put into the water for heating inspection. If the thermostat can't be opened or the opening degree is not enough, the thermostat needs to be replaced.
Topic by violantez | last reply
My cat always smells like its own poop and i give it just water baths, it doesnt mind them. I haven't been able to go to my local pet store recently because it is closed for fire damage (don't worry the animals all got out) and I was wodering if there was a cheaper alternative to store-bought.
Question by RedneckAsian | last reply
I have an iPhone that suffered some water damage and no longer functions, the screen seems hardly affected so I wondered if it could be reused? Is it even theoretically possible (assuming it still works)? How might I go about testing it? would I be able to make an adapter to some usable connector? Sorry for the far-fetched idea but it seems like it would be very cool to reuse it like this. Thanks, fusorx
Question by fusorx | last reply
Year after year the topic "I have a fish tank" seems to go more out of control. What was once a hobby just to have some fish can now be a design feature both in your home and inside the tank. Realistic looking lasdscapes, optical illusions that make you think the tank is much bigger and the list goes on. But one thing that now always pops up is the must have thing of UV filtration. Or to be precise: UV-C sterilisation! Now, if we trust Wiki and our big water suppliers then UV-C will literally kill anything alive that comes into contact with. So of course it would be a good thing to have for your tank - or not? UV-C is very dangerous for your eyesight and quite harmful for your skin! Looking into a proper UV-C lamp without protection means you can go blind! Even good sunglasses might not have enough protection in the UV-C range, so only use them for additional protection but never without and glass between you and the lamp! Don't be a fool! Treat UV-C seriously! You would not look into the full sun with your sunglasses and would not expose your eyes or skin to a powerful laser, UV-C is to be treated the same way! Let's start by using some boring text to explain the concept a little bit. On a large scale special and quite powerful systems are used to treat our drinking or pool water. Here special UV-C lights with a wavelenghts of 260nm or below are used to shine through the water passing by. There are two key factors here. a) the wavelenght b) the water flow rate and the corresponding time the water is in contact with the UV light To ensure all bacteria, viruses, algae and other harmful organics are dead the water must circulate for long enough so even the last water molecule had a few seconds of exposure. All this only works good with "crystal clear" water for obvious reasons as otherwise the UV has to be even more powerful to pass through. Single cell organisms literally crack into pieces similar to being exposed to gamma rays, more complex cells like algae have their cell membranes damages and the DNA suffers as well causing reproduction loss and early death. Even some chemicals break down, most importantly here chlorine based substances. Differences within the UV-C range! If you bothered to check Wiki about the topic of UV-C you will already know that only certain wavelengths within this spectrum will actuall be powerful enough to do what we want it to do. And here is the first problem for us hobby users. Most cheaply advertised "sterlisation lamps" you find in places like Ebay are actually totally useless. Stating to be selling a UV-C light to sterilze your water in such a case is still not considered to be fraud though. Simply because it still does what it supposed to do, just very slow and with very little effect. Only the so called "short wave" UV-C range is powerful enough! To avoid loosing business during the times of the biggest hype in 20 years no seller will actuall state the available wavelengths. That means without this info anywhere you can be certain the advertised lamp is of little to no use. Even those advertised to be short wave UV-C might not be the real deal. However, if a decent manufacturer is behind the actual lamp used it is possible to check the datasheet for these performance figures - but again most cheap systems come with no-name lamps inside. Check the prices for a reputable UV-C light with the same lamp fitting, e.g. G23 and you will see it might cost more than your entire system. Ok, you have a poper short wave UV-C lamp or consider getting a canister filter with one in it.... Never, ever test your lamp without proper protection!!!!! UV-C will damage your eye within seconds! If you system or lamp does not provide a viewing port or shine through area then you have to place a piece of glass between you and the light! UV-C won't be able to penetrate normal window glass but will pass through quartz glass. Place the lamp in a box and cover with the glass. How make proper use of UV-C sterilisation... The replacement lights are quite expensive, so let's see how to get the most out of them. As said before exposure is the key factor so the flow rate of the UV system must match tank size and flow rate of your filter system. Canister filters with a build in lamp should be designed to match but I will tell you later what to look for ;) Most of us will prefer to have a in-line system if there is already a good canister filter at work, so I will focus on those and rop in solutions. If you compare in-line system you might notice that some quite small and low power units claim to allow for the same flow rates as for example 40W units. Some are fraud and just want to sell while others use simple physics to make the claim true. A good system will utilise an auger like "ramp" that forces the water to circulate around the tube many times - causing up to ten times longer exposure rates. Others create this sprial effect more like a vortex with some diverters and modified inlets. The later seems to be less efficient though with low power lamps. An in-line system should be on the outlet side of your canister filter so the best quality water will pass through it. A drop in solution should be used alone and without the existing normal filter pump you might have in there. Ok, got it, but how do I actually use it now? Despite common thinking a UV-C system should not run 24/7 like your normal filter. You really only need it to solve problems you should not have in a healthy tank! It is not a magical solution to make your underlaying problems go away ;) Let's start with the most common reason someone buys a UV-C system: An algae or bacterial outbreak causing greenish or milky water. If that developed slowly over a period of weeks then you would be better off to do a good clean of the tank and filter plus a decent water exchange. A few drops of meds will do the rest. And if you constantly get algae growing on your glass, ornaments and plants then your nutrient levels and water quality is not right anyway and needs a good check. But of course there is also the problem of light - too much for too long and unwanted gree appears everywhere. If in doubt reduce the light power, shade out natural light or reduce the on time for your lights. Having said that we now face the problem of a sudden outbreak after introducing new fish or plants. If you don't have a quarantaine tank chances are that sooner or later you get unwanted or even harmful guest into your tank. Here the UV-C will be beneficial, which is why a canister filter with build in light should have a seperate switch or power supply for the light. After an outbreak or while introducing new life into your tank the UV-C will remove a lot of the things that we don't want to bring along. For new life I leave the light on non stop for a week, that is for a small 4ft tank with 200 liters. To control an outbreak it depends on how bad it is. I assume here you can still see the back of your tank but that the water either appears greenish or slightly milky from bacteria. As a personal thing I prefer to to remove and clean my filter material before treating a severe outbreak. Once done I fill the filter with a mix of activate carbon material and fine filter wool. Reason for this quite simple: The outbreak causing stuff is already in your filter material and will be a constant source of re-infection. And since breaking down all this bad stuff causes even more bad stuff to be produced as biological waste we want to discard it properly once done. Using just fine filter wool and activated carbon also reduces the flow rate bit if compacted ;) Now we can turn on the light and pump and forget about it for a while. It is not recommended to run UV lights on a timer as you want them on all time to prevent short lifespan and have ongoing treatment of the water. Good idea to take a picture at the same of a day from now on to compare and check results. After 3 days the water should definately be clearer, if not then either your filter material is packed too losse or the lamp is no good. Once the water appears to be clear do a readin test - take a newspaper behind the tank and check if the text is clear - blurry means the water is still not clean. You will reach a point where the water quality will not further improve as much as in the days before. This is the time where you discard or clean out to dry your filter material and put the original stuff back in. The activated carbon should be discarded of course. You cleaned filter material will now need a certain time to grow enough good bacteria to go back to the old performance. During this time you should still leave the light on. In most cases with enough fish and plants in the tank a week should be sufficient. After that you can leave the light off and keep the tank fit and healthy. Special case: Algae everywhere! Especially after getting a new plant you can end up with quite pesty algae growth. Be it these long ghost hair types or in a bad case the black stuff growing on plants, ornaments and the glass. I have even seen tanks with algae covering the entire bottom of the tank causing the gravel to look like carpet. Here I can only advise to set up a quarantaine tank for your fish. Then remove all infested material for manual removal and cleaning. Infested plants should be cut clean and what can be boiled should be boiled in water for a few minutes. Now start scrubbing in the tank with ongoing water replacements. I prefer to let everything settle over night without any bubbler or pump running. This way I can suck up a lot of sediment the next day. If you can remove all plants and fish you can now use hydrogen peroxide and add it to your tank water. But this is only feasable for small desktop tanks. Before using the UV as above to cure an outbreak you should consider all water one last time. Allow at least 2 weeks with ongoing water checks before adding plants back in and another week before placing your fish back in the tank. The week before adding fish should be used to monitor the plats for any signs of algae you might have missed - if you find any remove it! A week after the fish is back in you can turn off the UV light. Underwater UV-C light!? In most online stores you will find quite cheap UV lights to be advertised as underwater or in tank use. Although it might sound tempting you should be well aware of the dangers of using them. The glass of your tank will block the harmfull UV rays but the water surface won't, so either don't ever look at it or use proper sunglasses with real UV protection. Apart from the dangers to you these lamps are not just cheap in price but also cheaply produced. That means there is no way of telling how much or how little UV-C is produced. If they are good then you still need to know in what type of tank setup you can use them. As plants can tolerate a bit of UV a placement as far away from the nearest plant should do, especially if you can place a bubble wall betwenn light and plants. The fish is another thing as some seem to be unaware of the danger in their tank. This means they can get too close to the light but I have not found any articles explaining how harmful UV-C is to fish or their eyesight. I guess once your fish starts to bounce into everything you know... ;) My advise is to stay away from the idea of hanging a UV-C lamp in your tank, the risk for you and your tank is just not justified. If you need to go cheap then get two or thre of these lamps so you have spares. But use them externally ;) Meaning: Take a UV proof plastic container of small size and place the light in there. To be really safe tape the lid and all holes for the hoses with black tape. Place the container above the water level of your tank and if you only have an internal filter pump push a suitable sized hose into the outlet to feed into you canister. Check how high you pump can make it and place the outlet or overflow slightly below this level. When to change the light? If you made it all the way down here then you might already had the benefit of using light to "cure" your tank. Now we are faced with the high replacement cost for the lamp itself. Ususally only flouroscent tubes are used. It is always good to check after purchase what type of lamp and manufacturer (if there is one) was used. In some cases the system itself is like an inkjet printer: Just a cheap way to make you buy the consumables. Let's say you new in-line filter was priced at $100 to have a nice round number, some are cheaper some much more expensive. The lamp used might be an exotic type and not even be available easy, so before you buy your system check where you can get spares, not just the lamp of course. A replacement lamp can be as ceap as 20 bucks or cost even more than your system if you need to order it elsewhere. The quartz glass sleeve can break too meaning you then need a lamp and cylinder. Going with a reputable brand and paying a bit more certainly helps to get spares in the future. Let's just assume you either got your system in bulk due to the price of replacement lamps or can get them at a reasonable price. UV-C lamps are not like your normal flouroscent light tubes you have around or maybe even on top of your tank. Consider them like the tubes used in the now unhealthy tanning beds. After a certain amount of time they no longer produce enough of the short wave UV light that we need. As you can't see it and most of us won't have the means to specifically measure it we have to trust manufacturers recommendations. For most good brands the numbers are the same: 8000 hours max. Considering the costs it does make sense to keep written track of the usage. Not too hard since we won't use them like normal lights but instead have them on for a week or more without turning them off. I recommend to have a replacement at hand long before you need it. A lamp can fail premature, crack or simply burn out. The 8000 hours are based on 24 hour usage, so one day on, one day off. This could mean for us the lifetime can be slightly longer but I would not go over 9000 hours. As a rule of thumb: If the water does not show good signs of getting clear on day thre the lamp is due.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I want to be able to paint a black evo desk to a white color that would look nice with an LED lit room. Please give me some suggestions or advice as I attempt to do this :)This is what I currently have. After going through the options at checkout.Evodesk Shape :Ergo Edge Renew Recycled Wood Finish :Carbon Black Desktop Edge :Ergo Edge ($79.00) Desktop Size :30x84 ($349.00) Frame Color :Carbon Black Storage Pods :No Storage Desktop Highrise :No Highrise Controller :Programmable Memory ($59.00) Keyboard Platform :Carbon Black ($139.00) Freeport :No Freeport Cable Management Tray :Carbon Black ($99.00) Warranty :Standard Warranty NOT SELECTED Harman Kardon Speaker System :No Monitor Arm :No Treadmill System :No Metalix Glass Chair Mat :No CPU Mount System :No Anti-Fatigue Mat :No EvoFlex Cable Management :No Evodesk Casters :NoThere is also water damage mark on the desk. Is it worth fixing it? it is water damage left over from a cup with no coaster. Any advice on possibly fixing this would be much appreciated. :)
Question by aquerol | last reply
Hey everyone, I can't imagine that this question hasn't been asked before, but I must be using the wrong keywords. I used a small electric crucible (for lead and pewter) to heat up pewter and pour it into a coin shaped plaster mold. Truthfully, I'm pretty pleased with the level of detail, but I've got some 'burned' colored discoloration on the coins. I've tried gently washing with soap and water which got off some of it. 1) am I doing something wrong to produce that coloring? 2) will silver polish clean it up, or will it damage the pewter? (almost certain it will be fine, but thought I'd double check) Should I just be scrubbing harder with soap and water? For whatever reason, the image uploader isn't working. I'll try to get one into the comments after I post this. many thanks!
Topic by oldmicah | last reply