I was wondering if anyone could give me information or specs on an old style water well/ bucket well. Specifically on what the crank is and what it is called.
Topic by scratchy_joe | last reply
So I was wondering if you could run a hydraulic ram pump by digging down 3ft beside your well then pump water up about 50 feet at about a 40 degree incline. This way there would need to be no change in elevation between your ram pump and your well. Thanks!!
Question by camping crazy | last reply
I bought a older home a few years back with a pump thing in the back. I was told there was an artestian spring under all the properties in this neighborhood. Anyway, my mother told me to just keep moving the handle up and down and eventually it would work. I pumped to long and hard that not only did I look foolish, but I woke the next morning with sore arms. I just can't do that again this year. How can I get that thing to work? Also, I had to put a sump pump in my basement because the springs are awful. My basement floods, but it's not sewer water, it's clear. I had to have my water heater replaced because of the flood in my basement.
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Question by Qagent007 | last reply
Hello, I've been thinking lately about moving out to the desert lately and living off the grid with a well, but I'm not sure my base idea for pulling up water from a well will actually work. My idea is to have a line running up from the well (ending in a one way valve) to the bottom of essentially a steel water trough with a glass lip on top making it airtight. A pvc would run from a hole in the top to a water storage tank to move water vapors up there and condense them. My hoped mechanism of action would be as the air heats up in the trough due to the sunlight it would force the water up from the well little by little and evaporate it. My question is, will this actually pull up water from the well or would I have to buy a solar pump? I don't need lots of water fast or high pressure, the water storage will gravity feeds and collect throughout each day. My other idea which I'm pretty sure will work is having the showers, sinks, and washer (using a compost toilet) feed a one way line out to the hotbox too. If as little as 50% of the water makes it back into the lines that way then I will have cut my water usage in half. What does everybody think?
Question by Johanna_W | last reply
I need to know how to install a water system from my well asap. Full details of hookup. I have an existing well with a submerged pump in it, but don't know if pump still works. Presently digging it out to put power to it and find out. Water "spout" coming out of ground also plugged and am trying to clear. I have a pressure tank ordered that I hope will work. Pipe to house all ready dug, checking patency and damage. If pump doesn't work, is it repairable?, ie., how does it work so I can repair. How does pressure tank work? Any tips to make this easier are greatly appreciated. I am senior, disabled gal who is at war with water company because they are partially, if not completely, responsible for my house burning down a few months ago. I lost everything. I am OK with a good basic knowledge of mechanics, but this has me stumped, pls offer any comments that will help. I am not the only person of my community victimized by our county government. RClark0240@att.net
Question by RClark0240 | last reply
I am trying to build a manual water pump in my house. We are digging a well of about 320 feet (about 100m) and are hoping to pump water into an overhead tank that is about 13ft (4m) above the ground. Can anyone help me figure out how to build such a pump. Electricity is and expensive commodity in my area and that is why were looking to use a manual pump. Any input will be appreciated.
Topic by oppan_d | last reply
Hi there, I need a water filter for my well, which i can hook up before the water riches the pressure tank. I got a lot sediment in the well. I was thinking of a filter like from a fish tank. My Idea is , i fill it with gravel from big to fein (Sand) gravel in at least a 6 inch pipe and about 4 feet long. The pump company ( Flotec) told me that i need a pipe with min. 100psi rating. I want use a clear pipe so i can see when i have to change (clean) the gravel.It should also be mounted in the basement ( freeze protection). I found on the i-net a clear pipe with treats on the top and bottom, but than it's not rated any more for 100 psi. so what can i do. Any clue?
Topic by germanudo | last reply
I have raw land, in a State Park, which has no access to electricity or running water (stream or otherwise). I am trying to build an aquaponics farm, however I don't have access to electricity for a well to deliver water to the system, or to the air pumps for aeration. Any advise? I need to know how to get water out of the well, and how to aerate the water for the fish and plants, without electricity. I looked into Solar PV and wind turbines, and they are out of my budget. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update *03/08/13* Thank you all for the wonderful help and suggestions. I am going to try several of these to determine the best fit. Also, please keep the suggestions coming, I will continue testing methods, even after setup.
Topic by msilverstein1 | last reply
Is something going on with the well pump?When we turn it on,it fault-checks by lighting fault and no water lights,if everything is all right it starts up.That is usual,it happened every time and nothing went wrong.It now pumps for some time,then stalls with a hiss,and then after some time,starts pumping again,stall,pump,stall,pump and so on.The control panel shows NO WATER when it stalls,the light comes off when the pump starts again.
Topic by Derin | last reply
We have purchased land that has a 100 year old dug well on the property. Until about 20 years ago it was open, but the farmer of the property wanted to make the land a little safer and filled it in. When he filled it in, it had water at the bottom and was approx 30-45feet deep. Since the time when it was filled in, the dirt has sunk about 10feet. It is well made and is small round rock lined. I would love to find a way to get the dirt out of the well and at the same time preserve the nice stone work. It would be my hope to connect a solar pump to it and use the water for gardening purposes. Any thoughts on how to get the dirt out?
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This will be used as a collection receptacle in our children's church project as "well" as in the bible story of Joseph.
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So I am building a small cabin in the woods near my house, It is on a very small ridge to the gully below. In the gully I dug a test hole for my well and had a hole at under two feet that fills up immediately when you scoop it out. Should I stay in this spot or will the water be bad?? I doubt if I can go very deep because the hole is now filled with water and there is about two feet of rock just under the surface I know because I dug a hole for something else nearby. Drilling of any sort is not an option as the rocks are to large. Should I just move nearby and try to go deep in that spot. I might get four feet in another spot. Thanks!!
Question by camping crazy | last reply
In this forum topic, the main idea is when and where you'll want to host a water war. Here, we talk about space issues, location, time of day, etc, as well as the design/construction of things that can be installed, like mines, bases, trenches, sniper nests, and turrets.
Topic by MattGyver92 | last reply
I was thinking about another fun project that draws water out of the air with just the sun's energy. I noticed the empty open vinegar bottle I washed and set to dry on my window sill accumulate more moisture every day. It was pooling water in the bottom after a week. The bottle shape is like a ball with a long spout. I read a little about air wells on the web, but they are very large structures. It would be fun to build a small one that would make a few glasses of water a day. Comments?Here's one link Air Wells & Dew Ponds
Topic by robbtoberfest | last reply
I have a 32m deep, 95cm diameter well, that is covered with two heavy concrete covers. The water depth is about 20m down from the surface. I cannot easily access the well to sound the depth or visually check the water level. I would like to build an electronic water level gauge that will tell me the amount of water in the well. I can then regulate watering accordingly. It was suggested to me that I use a washing machine pressure transducer but I have no idea of the circuit required. A refined solution would send data to my PC !!!! I have 240v AC supply to the well pump. Any ideas? Steve
Topic by SteveG31530
Were hearing all sorts of things about Perfect Empowered Drinking Water producing benefits beyond being a healthy drinking water. Is it more than just water? Are you making specific claims? Perfect Empowered Drinking WaterTM is drinking water, plain and simple. We have worked hard to make the best drinking water we can using the best-bottled water technologies we could find and developing our own as well. The result is a bottled drinking water that combines what we believe to be the best of the best ... a water worthy of its title- Perfect Empowered Drinking Water. http://www.drinkperfectwater.com/$5 per bottle$50 for a 24 packi can sell them to you.read the PDF it has allot of info
Topic by RelyNupon
Hi I was wondering if any one had a good idea of how to build a water deionizer.I'm just starting a car valeting business and need deionized water for final rinsing of cars to prevent water spots as we are in an ultra hard water area and normal rinsing leaves water spots no matter how well we chamois it. I have a 1000L IBC tank that we use to collect recycled and rain water which i want to use to rinse off the cars. As we are in a water controlled zone we have to recycle and filter our water and also it is a ultra hard water area the filters to deionize the water for rinsing cost around £90 plus postage and only last 10-15 cars which is to really killing our business. It is costing us around £9 a car to just rinse them and on a basic wash we only charge £10 which as you can see is not viable. Thanks in advance
Topic by msc | last reply
I was reading this article on how scientist made a bridge out of water, just liquid water, using a high voltage of electricity. They flipped the switch and the water from one glass(well i'm not sure what they put it in, i am assuming a glass beaker) over the very air between the beakers and into the other glass, held up by nothing at all. You won't be driving cars across this thing anytime soon, they biggest they could make it span was 25mm. Supposedly the current restructured the water molecules to create it. I do know they used DC current though. Also the bridge only last for 45 minutes, because of heat, which as the article states, it went from 20(degrees) C to more than 60(degrees)CQuoted from the article,http://www.physorg.com/news110191847.html)Upon investigating the phenomenon, the scientists found that water was being transported from one beaker to another, usually from the anode beaker to the cathode beaker. The cylindrical water bridge, with a diameter of 1-3 mm, could remain intact when the beakers were pulled apart at a distance of up to 25 mm.I'm not sure how much current was going threw them but I would be amazed and appreciate it if someone could find out, experimenting or however they could.
Topic by cd41 | last reply
I have this well water pump that is connected to a wall plug which gets switched ON and OFF by a float switch in the reservoir. What I want to do is to switch ON the pump from down where the pump is, when the float switch in the OFF position without going up to the reservoir ,
Question by lonzu | last reply
Question | last reply
Water rockets are fairly new to water warrior technology. To reduce our carbon footprint, water rockets are built using plastic bottles. This forum topic talks about the operation of standard water rockets and launchers, how they can be used in a water war, construction of water rocket launchers, rockets, and add-ons like water balloons on the tips of rockets, ammo clips, and grips as well.
Topic by MattGyver92 | last reply
Hello I have a laptop that gets hot while gaming and i don't have the money for a desktop right now. Basically my idea is to lay down 4 fans then i lay down a mesh sheet then a coil of copper pipe then a another mesh sheet then my laptop The coils would go to a tub of slightly chilled water and be pumped though How well would this work, Is it possible? Portability is not an issue as i would have this mounted to a piece of wood by my desk Thanks, Kaden
Question by FarmerKJS | last reply
Finished Project - https://www.instructables.com/id/Project_rRaft_Building_a_Raft_out_of_Water_Bottl/After thinking about Reishee and his island, I asked my mom if I could build an island from water bottles...the idea was rejected. I asked my mom if I could build a raft, and she said sure...so i've started collecting water bottles. Not only does the final result get me excited, but people's responses do as well. Of course there are those who think i'm crazy (as there are with any of my schemes), but there are so many more who just love the idea, and get enthralled in it. A friend in crew is going to empty the boat house recycling bin for me, a teacher told me that the recycling bin in the teacher work room is over flowing, many more offer to collect water bottles from their families, and bring in the 20+ bottles from their cars. I bring a bag to school to collect them, and collect bottles from people...just being a part of this great recycling project (I want it to be 98% recycled) excites people, so when they see one person donate a bottle, others will hurry to finish their water and donate it to the cause as well.The whole thing has just opened my eyes to how many bottles are thrown out, instead of being recycled...it's amazing. Just because people will probably be asking, this is my plan:Two large water bottle pontoons will be on either sideA wooden frame/deck will be clipped onto the pontoons via eye bolts and carabinersHomemade oarsThat's the basics...I hope to have some luxuries too:Big ole water tight cooler bolted onto the back for storageTwo stadium seats bolted onto the deck to sit onTo keep up with the raft, visit rraft.blogspot.com
Topic by Weissensteinburg | last reply
Hey all, I wasn't able to find where a short discussion about Super cooled water was posted not long ago, and I wanted to relate this incident; so if I get no replies, that is ok. I just thought it was kind of neat the way this occurred. Last night, well, I guess it was actually this morning ( 00:30 ), I left work and went to my car, got myself situated, and before driving off, I grabbed a bottle of water that was in the cup holder. I distinctly remember shaking it to make sure the water was NOT frozen. I also took note that the bottle was partially imploded; something I would have expected as the temp was down to about 17 o F. When I opened the bottle, put it to my mouth and tilted it, the unexpected happened. Between the moment of releasing the vacuum that had formed and my trying to drink from the bottle ( about 3 seconds), the water froze to a Slushy consistency. For a moment I was perplexed why I was getting no water in my mouth, and then it slid from the bottom, and it stopped at the neck of the bottle. I had forgotten that this could happen. I must have sat there looking at it for a good 2 minutes trying to get something out of the bottle, when I thought I would blow some warm air into it. The bottle inflated slightly, and the air passed by the slush, and when I released, I got a face full of slush. I had to laugh at myself all the way after that little incident. :-)
Topic by Goodhart | last reply
I can patch the side leaks on me metal tank easy enough with marine epoxy. but there's no way i can crawl in the tank without destroying the bottom with my weight. i would like to find something i can pour in there that would sink and find the hole and cover it up. wouldn't take much with the water pressing against it. maybe some sort of saw dust? it would eventually sink and find the leak? but it can't rot over time or have bad chemicals in it... or something made of much smaller particles? really needs to be a remedy tested by time, maybe something from our grandfather's day. or, i could make a remote controlled robot with manipulators and a camera! nahhhhhh..... thanks
Question by abraxas1 | last reply
Hey everyone, I hope im posting this in the right spot. I run a large farming operation and get my water from a well that pumps into a large storage tank about 10 feet deep and 6ft diameter. Because the well is very old I'm not able to add things like a float that will turn it on or off for me so I'm constantly having to check the well though out the day and if the cows are more thirsty one day they can drink the storage tank dry and that causes me problems with my pump, or if i leave it to long it will overflow and it makes a terrible mess. So im wondering if there is a way that I can wire up a water level indicator in the well-house and have a light board in my house that shows me the level of the well. So for a 10 ft deep well id have an led light for every 1ft or so and when the water level gets to the top foot a buzzer would go off and when it hits the bottom foot or 2 ft then a buzzer would go off. Ideally a wireless transmitting to the house would be best but I have no idea how that could work. And wired would be hard with the well house being a few hundred feet away from my house. I've done a lot of googling and haven't found anything that would suite a large scale water tank like this. I purely want to be able to see in my house where the water level is and have it warn me when its too high or too low. I apologize since i don't have a lot of experience in electronics. Any help is greatly appreciated as i have no idea where to start or if its even possible. Thanks guys!
Topic by rpfarm25 | last reply
This is a clam shell bucket, from an old toy crane. I am taking this to a machine shop, welder, had having them make it 18 inches wide. It would be used only with rope, no block and tackle. Problem: As best I can surmise, about 1-10 percent of hand dug, round water wells used by around 4 billion people on the planet are full of silt, dirty, and old plastic jugs used to pull the water up from well. As the silt rises in the well, the wells slowly become too dirty, or the locals need to pull the water out in buckets, then allow the silt water to settle. It is way to expensive for people who earn 10 USD per day to pay people with pumps to drain the wells. I want to create a 1-2 man powered clamshell bucket system to clean these wells. What is the best way to make a method to clean a dug well? How much would the steel, rebar cost? Labor is 10 dollars per day in central American, South America, Africa etc. Thanks for help, I will take the finished bucket to Lome, Togo West Africa to test, and modify, iterate. Andy Lee Graham of HoboTraveler.com https://www.hobotraveler.com/blogger.html
Topic by hobotraveler | last reply
On a well with a Hydrogen Peroxide and water softener system. Warm water side smells sulfury or nasty all of a sudden. Plenty of salt in softener and plenty of Hydrogen Peroxide being pumped into system. Due to softener, the watre heaters never had their anode rods installed - so not coming from there. What is causing the recent smella nd how to remove?
Question by bebolf | last reply
We are in the middle of designing a rain water collection system for a commercial building that includes: 1. a 2500 gallon in ground tank 2. 1/2 hp submersable well pump 3.simple float valve to maintain minimum water level during drought What we are trying to figure out is to exclude purchasing a complicated expensive store bought filtration system we were trying as we always do to keep things simple. we have to provide sometype of secondary filtration system to aereate the water as well as clean it in order to run to our toilets. Whatwould be wrong with using a small pool filter set in a 1 hour a day cycle that would provide oxygen to the water ? Also we were looking at using one of the floating chlorine tablet holders like a pool would use to maybe kill any pathegons that would be in it. We realize this is too simple to not have some down side so all opinions and help would be greatly appreciatted.
Question by andy1917 | last reply
Hi, I'm a senior in a physics class. We're currently building and launching water bottle rockets. Our teacher told us of people that had tried to put two bottles together to increase the pressure they could build up, but said that they had failed because the pressure would leak from the point where they were joined. Does anybody have ideas on how to make a water-tight double bottle rocket? I had the idea to fuse the plastic together using heat, but I'm not sure how well this would work. This is my first post, so I'm hoping this is the right section to post in. Thank you for any help and comments you could offer.
Topic by kemosabi4 | last reply
Hey guys im working on a little project and i need a water pump to finish my work but i do not know what kinda pump do i need , ive built several pumps but none seems to work well and i cant go too high because i need the minimum power ... heres the sketch i made for you , can anyone help me ? i need to suck the water though green pipe and pump the water back to tank through that red pipe .. tnx
Question by MeemSe | last reply
So water leaked in to the General Electronic Module (GEM) on my pickup and now it's acting all funny. A/C runs when the ignition is off, randomly switching to 4L, airbag light chattering on and off, etc. I want to try and repair it. My intuition is that it just acts up when there's stray conductivity between traces/elements, so if I give it a good clean and keep it dry it should work like new.However, I noticed upon pulling it apart that there's some corrosion taking place. Can anyone suggest a good way to repair these traces/SMD resistors? I have a soldering iron but heavily oxidized things don't take solder well in my experience. Or should I just put some lacquer on it and not worry about it?Thanks!
Topic by RelaxedSoup | last reply
We know this space used to hold a well, and I'm hoping they just covered it with concrete and it's hollow under the floor, but I don't know how to proceed, just start drilling? any other ideas?
Question by lydick | last reply
I need some help. Well, I'll be honest, I need a lot of help. I am trying to heat 1 liter of water running through a small tube that holds 8ml of fluid up by 12C, with a maximum temperature of the heater reaching 60C, and the entire liter needs to be heated within 30 minutes. In my experiments, the tube holds 8ml of fluid while passing along the 'heater' core, and will pass by the core in a total of 10 seconds. So 8ml heated by 12C in 10 seconds is the limiting factor and multiply that out to cover 30 minutes. The good news, I have managed to accomplish this feat by wrapping the tube around a curling iron rated at 80W x 110V. End result is 12C rise in output fluid, so I know the theory is completely possible. However, here's the kicker, the entire system needs to run off of battery power. So the 2 big questions are: what material should I use as the 'heater core' since I can not use a standard curling iron, and what battery system/configuration should I use (needs to be universal purchase ie, AA, AAA, D, C, 123, 9V, etc) Any help would be greatly appreciated both to my personal safety as I tinker in the garage, and to my wife's sanity as she watches me play with water around plugged in curling irons. :) Thanks in advance. WS.
Topic by whiskeysausage | last reply
I posted this idea on the makezine forums recently and got 1 answer but it seems I did not explain what I meant too well so I thought I would try here to see what you think. See the diagram at http://www.nelliott.co.uk/maker/water-wheel.jpg Would this produce more power than a conventional water wheel? My theory is as follows: In the case of a normal wheel each bucket/segment when full of water has the turning power equal to weight of water x length of horizontal line such as the yellow one in the diagram. That is it's weight exerts a force to turn the wheel according to it's horizontal distance from the centre of the wheel. If instead of the normal wheel the 3 blue circles represent 3 sprockets.There would be a whole series of buckets attached to the red lines ( which represent a chain ).Water would pour into the buckets as shown, so it would simply propel the buckets vertically down.The turning power of each one of these would be equal to to weight of water x radius of large wheel. So each would have the turning power of the best one such as the line from H to the center of the wheel. As far as I can see this would mean a large increase in torque over conventional which I hope would easily offset the losses due to the chain drive. What do you think?
Question by buteman | last reply
I am a keen amateur cook who will soon be beginning my professional training as a chef and I have become very interested in molecular gastronomy particularly in the sous vide style of cooking things in a water bath at a specific temperature the their perfect level of doneness. I realize that I will need: some way to circulate the water so that there aren't hot patches also a quite accurate thermostat with a digital display a well insulated and obviously water tight container It's been a while since high school physics and my knowledge of circuitry is a little rusty but that said if reminded a bit I do understand a fair bit about it. Also if you think it will be more economically viable to buy one then just let me know. Thanks
Question by wiggins1234 | last reply
Clean water is becoming scarce and chlorine is a dangerous substance to be hauling around in the Third World. The dirty secret in water processing is that ozone works just as well as chlorine. How about coming up with a small handheld device which could sanitize small amounts of water using the local atmoshere by turning o2 into o3. I'm thinking aquarium pump to begin with.
Topic by Mud Stuffin | last reply
Question by 5994cc | last reply
I went to test an old 2lb fire extinguisher we had by pressing the green test button and, it didn't work. The fire extinguisher was a BC type dry chemical fire extinguisher. The label reads (CONTENTS OF BC DRY CHEMICAL POWDER: SODIUM BICARBONATE, MICA, CALCIUM STEARATE, NUISANCE DUST, IRRITANT; HMIS 0-0-0.) I took the chemical out to use as crude sodium bicarbonate, and now I want to use the bottle. My plan is to keep the labels on, find a cap like they use on most aluminum water bottles, and clean the inside out really well. The question I have is, is it safe? It says the contents are non-toxic, but I would still want to clean it really well. What would I clean it with? Would I have to coat the inside of the bottle because of the metal, (powder coating type place) and if so, what type of coating? Thanks!
Topic by tinstructable | last reply
I need some serious feedback! I have an 1896 Victorian, about 3800 sq.ft. but we did it right. Foamed the walls, floors, all new everything; a/c upstairs(2ton) and 5 ton downstairs. It cools fine, but it's big and with only 3 of us, we only use about 2 rooms most of the time. Practically a new home. I've was studying underground piping for cooling but I have a new though. I can not use swamp coolers because it's to humid in Middle Ga. I have a well that the water is about 49-58 degrees. If I build a box with a cage fan and use small radiators (desinged for this purpose; not auto radiators), to pass the cold well water thru, wouldn't this work to cool the air for a room or two? I would design it to use a thermostat to open a valve when the water reached about 70 degrees and have it to RETURN the water back to the well (have have an opening to do so on the well). What I'm visioning is, the air would pass a hundred or so coils with circulated cold water all the time. I understand I need to also consider humidity dropping and cycle that out. Keep in mind, I'm not talking about passing air over a wet pad. I'm leaning toward passing air over cold coils that might be as deep as 3 feet. I really would like some detailed opinions. I'll email drawing if I have to. Best regards. Chris - Macon Ga.
Topic by opc167 | last reply
Hey, so i got a little Water Soluble Flux with my Soldering Gun (new to this) Well it turns out that this stuff came with no instructions and I cant seem to find out how to correctly apply it. this is what I bought http://www.bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/KITS/SOLDERKITS/tabid/252/ctl/Detail/mid/1254/xmid/6931/xmfid/3/Default.aspx Someone please help?
Question by Epond89 | last reply
Hi, I have been looking into cleaning my well water at the source, rather than fed in into the lines. I have looked at making a simple ozone generator by purchasing one online and using a compressor to get it down 40 ft. Then I came across "silver bullet" and what intrigued me was that they produced hydrogen peroxide, which apparently is a a better bacteria killer, perhaps more stable. The reason that I want to kill bacteria and have it in the well at the source is because lots of iron bacteria and iron in my water plugging up my pump every so often is frustrating. This product looks promising, but costly, so researching this I found that they were using UV light, but normally UV light makes ozone with air. Then I dug deeper and then found out they are using a matrix made up of something similar to Titanium Dioxide (there are different forms, such as anatase and rutile which maybe more effective) so that when struck by proper UV light, it gives of an electron which will hit water vapor in air and split up water molecules to form OH- and H2O2 and some O3. So, one can buy TiO2 online, put it into a container that fits a UV lamp inside and blow compressed air through that and down the well, but the powder might get blown down the pipe. So how can one crystalize it around a cylindrical form that fits around a UV light to make it more efficient? I saw a similar post by Ian and he wants to use it for air cleaning, but gluing doesn't appeal to me as the glue itself might react with oxidants produced and give off other contaminants that I do not want in the water. So, can I use a type of glue that is safe around oxidants? Is TiO2 able to crystallize easily? ( I read that it doesn't dissolve in water well, which would rule out supersaturating water and crystallizing it that way) Any thoughts and suggestions?
Question by Hendrik0360 | last reply
Hello, lately I have become interested in DIY drip irrigation systems and have begun building one myself. The I started thinking:" wouldn't it be great if I didn't have to manually fill up the tank?" and remembered that there was already a very low tech way to get water: the air well!! Well, why not put the two things together? The air well collects the water and then this is distributed to the plants through the drip irrigation system. Obviously people have already thought about this (here's a link to a great project http://www.bustler.net/index.php/article/airdrop_irrigation_wins_first_prize_at_2011_james_dyson_awards/), but I was thinking if there was a way to build something even less technological, i.e. with no pump (I would rather use gravity instead) and no special condenser, but rather something made from recycled/easy to get parts. After all I don't live in a desert, so a less efficient system would do just fine. It's just so that I don't have to carry heavy buckets of water to quench the thirst of my synergic garden. Cheers
Topic by wilson14
Ok so I am starting a project ware I have a computer that controls well a water show. So I am going to use pvc pipe and set up my first test rig that has 4 jets and I am going to have a compressed air and water supply. The water fills into one of the jets and the air pushes it out. The problem I am having is finding a way to deliver compressed air in bursts or controlling the flow of how much air leaves. I need a way in which u can have a valve that opens as much as I need it to but it has to be able to be controlled remotely. Any ideas. Thanks
Topic by theugleymonkey | last reply
Hello, lately I have become interested in DIY drip irrigation systems and have begun building one myself. The I started thinking:" wouldn't it be great if I didn't have to manually fill up the tank?" and remembered that there was already a very low tech way to get water: the air well!! Well, why not put the two things together? The air well collects the water and then this is distributed to the plants through the drip irrigation system. Obviously people have already thought about this (here's a link to a great project http://www.bustler.net/index.php/article/airdrop_irrigation_wins_first_prize_at_2011_james_dyson_awards/), but I was thinking if there was a way to build something even less technological, i.e. with no pump (I would rather use gravity instead) and no special condenser, but rather something made from recycled/easy to get parts. After all I don't live in a desert, so a less efficient system would do just fine. It's just so that I don't have to carry heavy buckets of water to quench the thirst of my synergic garden. Cheers Another cool thing to make would be a poor man's version of this http://www.groasis.com/en
Topic by wilson14 | last reply
LIME BUILDUP IN TOILETS (WELL WATER) IN PLACES THAT CAN'T BE SCRAPED .CAN IT BE DISSOLVED?
Question by CHARGEUUP | last reply