Making water cooled shoes need some advice about thin copper tube fittings.

Essentially i want to make water cooled shoes from some of the spares i have from my old pc water-cooling set up.  I want to run some thin copper tubing around the shoe which will connect to the some metal fittings that will then connect to my rubber tubing and then to the pump and the radiator. Now i know about the fittings that are available for the regular copper tubing that runs in houses but this tubing will be around 4mm and im not sure how to connect this tubing to my metal fittings which are about 3/8th of an inch i believe.  I was thinking to just use some epoxy putty or something but im sure there are better ways to do this. so any ideas?  im sure fittings are available but i dont know what they're called i couldn't get anything with a quick google search.  Edit: i didn't realise response here would be so thoughtful and all. I dont want to be able to walk around in these i just want to sit in my room and be comfortable. The heat difference probably wouldn't be too large between my feet and the air for a huge transfer so i also had thought to add a small water bath with a second small radiator init.  The copper tubing doesnt have to be directly under my feet i realise they'd probably be crushed otherwise. but the heat conduction through them must be so much better then the plastic tubing. 

Topic by rajr110   |  last reply


Is it possible to watercool an xbox 360 internally. Can anyone make an instructables on how to do it.?

Hi there, some people have watercooled there xbox externally but I'm after cooling mine internally (pump, rad, fan etc) so to keep it as an all in one package. Has anyone done this to their xbox 360 as I would love to watercool mine. Can anyone offer a solution as I really want to do this to permanently stop my 360 from overheating. Shaun.

Question by baggychimp   |  last reply


Watercooling a PC with a central heating radiator?

So I'm completely new to water cooling, I own a closed loop cooler and I know the names of the water cooling parts and assembly, but I have no real experience. I presume it's possible to use a normal radiator as a passive radiator in a loop, but I've got a couple of questions. First, do I have to be worried about what the radiator and waterblocks are made of, are the metals important? Second, will I need a significantly more powerful pump than the standard D5? Thanks! P.S. the rad I had in mind is this http://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-type-11-single-panel-single-convector-radiator-white-300-x-800mm/38602   It's rated for 1505 BTU/hour, which equates to 441W, which is in theory plenty my PC (4670K, HD7850 which I'll probably upgrade in the near future) The reason for using this kind of radiator is because they're far cheaper and passive, although I suppose the increase in pump power may negate quietness of no fans. It's also more fun ;)

Question by CustardInc   |  last reply


how do you install the bigwater 760is?

I ned help really fast

Question by granjef3   |  last reply


Do Laptops have a "Power On" signal?

I was thinking of trying a project in which I do a custom watercooling setup on a gaming laptop of some kind. I would like the loop to power on and off with the laptop itself, but I don't want to use USB power or something like. That made me wonder if laptops have a power on signal, like desktop psu's have. Do they have it or something similar to a power on signal?

Topic by Dashing Rainbow Dash   |  last reply


Have a DT50 watercooled yamaha,that I recently (6 weeks ago) bought ,ran perfect, now wont start ?

Have tons of  spark,clean carb,fuel runs out the fuel line,when un pluged from the carb. It as a small 6 volt battery,that was checked and is putting out more than 6 volts,checked the switch on the kickstand,even un pluged the switch and tried it with the ends pluged together ,eliminating the switch,no diff... when I pull the plug I can run fuel into the plug hole replacing the plug with tons of spark ,key on,lights on dash lit up and nothing.tried removing the side cover ,put a socket on the crankshaft nut holding the lflywheel on ,with an impact driver ,spun the nut off after a number of attempts with locktite.never once even fired.it has points, if the points are closed,can it have spark at the plug? if it has spark,why wont it even fire?checked all the wires for anything un pluged and have spun all the connectors  ,hoping   for continuity. has compression ,as much as a 50 can have,when it came home you could rotate the kick starter by hand and it purred,Havent checked the switch on the handelbar that has 3 positions.only when checking for spark ,noticed saturday that when the plug was out and grounded and sparking,when you switched it to the off position and kick it over the first 1 or 2 kicks it would spark then no spark till you switched it to the  on position.next move is a big long downhill,or a mandrel to drive the flywheel,via the holes in it with pins sticking out of a disk driven by the impact driver. will investigate the points and confirm there opening. replaced plug with new correctly gaped one

Question by JoeR140   |  last reply


pump capacity / electrical interference

I am building a custom watercooling system in a confined space, with the pump motor close to the processor. for the pump, I intend to use a thin centrifugal pump with a centeral brushless motor based around a re-wound cd drive stator, but don't know what the power required to move enough water is, especially with small bore pipe (2 X 1/4" also, when positioning the pump, how far away should it be from the main board to avoid causing interference, as the pump is essentially a large spinning magnet with several amps going to it. I'm guessing the motor should be as far away as possible, as well as the supply cables. thanks for the help.

Topic by The Skinnerz   |  last reply


Peltier dehumidifier

I hope someone with a technical background can help me with this... I am trying to make an DIY dehumidifier. The goal is to lower the humidity of my room during the summer months (humidity is around 70% at 25C) to less than 50, preferrable 30%. I have the following setup in mind: To achieve condensation I want to use a peltier that will lower the temperature of an radiator. The condensed water will be gathered in a (plastic) box. This water will then be used to cool the hot side of the peltier, using a water block and a waterpump that was left over after using watercooling on my PC. The image depicts an simple graphic of the setup. However, I have the following questions to be answered: - How cold (relative to the ambient temperature) would the cold-side radiator have to be to get optimal condensation - How much watts of cooling power would the peltier need in order to achieve the needed temperature difference - If i lower the cold side temperature with 20C, how much heat would be generated on the hot side? (my gues: 20C, but im no genius ;) ) Thanks in advance!

Topic by pelzinga   |  last reply