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The Wilderness Downtown

This is a great interactive art project from the folks over at Google.  http://www.thewildernessdowntown.com/

Topic by Culturespy    |  last reply


bike charger

I ride on a bicycle patrol around my neighborhood three times a week.  (6-8 miles, good exercise) I also have another bike with a Wilderness Motor on it.  (36 V, 600 Watt motor) I don't use the Wilderness bike much anymore, but how could I wire a gizmo to charge some AA and/or AAA batteries?

Topic by rcg40    |  last reply


New Category? How About Hunting :)

Hello! My name is Tyler, and i have a proposal for Instructables.com, or whoever might be interested in helping me with this. I would love to see a new 'outside' sub-category (I guess you'd call it that) on hunting, trapping, tracking etc created, and it would be thus called, Hunting! Basically, the idea came to me when i noticed lots of guides like cleaning critters, trap setting/making, how to track animals etc, but to me they don't seem to belong to the right category. I haven't seen any other posts related to this, but I would love to put the idea out there, because I do think it would be quite useful to have a category for hunting, not just sport, but for survival. I want to also apologize if someone has said this idea before and  i haven't noticed it :-P I hope this interested at least someone and I hope to see how it goes! :-D Tyler H.

Topic by fatchumba667    |  last reply


What would be the VERY BEST way for me to TRANSITION into my newly adopted off-grid, survivalist, subsistence lifestyle? Answered

A 16'x16'x16', 256-square foot, A-frame cabin on an elevated 3' concrete paver floating DekBlock foundation with a 3'x 6'8" front flush door, one rear 48"x 48"horizontal slider window, and another upper 24"x 24" horizontal slider window for the sleeping loft.I'm thinking that one of those standard U.S. Stove designs might provide just a little too much heat for my needs up in the Copper River Basin region of ALASKA's rural backcountry. Who knows? What are your suggestions for the above described "habitat"? Where can I find the best deals for my 256-square foot space? (Heating/ventilation-wise, we're speaking of subzero temperatures and heavy snowfall, so, I don't believe that "opening a window" is a practical solution for me if it gets too hot and smokey inside my A-frame.) Plus, I've done the HEATING ESTIMATE for the A-frame I'm going to build and the numbers come out to about a 620,000 btuh (heat loss) for the new dimensions I'm finally settling on: 16'x16'x16' or 256sq.ft. This calculation is for -50 degrees F with cold floor, ceiling, and glass surfaces taken into account. (Insulation isn't a factor this early in the design.) "Wow!" I thought at first. "A 620,000 btuh HEAT LOSS! I reckon you can never have too much stove even for an A-frame design." (Being that A-frame cabins retain heat so well, and that my sleeping loft may get really HOT in the Winter, this was a preliminary concern.) Foundation:(4) 8"- diameter cardboard cylindrical concrete forms for pin-point piers;(4) 84" reinforcement rods for pin-point concrete forms;(16) Bricks for base of footing;(24) Layout stakes;(8) 5' batter boards;(1) Spool of wire for joining the two 14" reinforcement rods for each footing base;(1) Spool of line for marking building layout lines;(?) Bags of cement;(?) Bags of gravel;(?) Bags of sand...*A few questions about the amount of concrete needed for the four footings and the four concrete piers: "How much concrete will be needed for four 8"-deep concrete footings poured into four 16"-diameter, 44"-deep holes with each containing four bricks and the four reinforcement rod supports? How much concrete will be needed to fill four 8"-diameter pin-point concrete pier forms to an estimated height of about 80"-inches? How many total bags of cement, gravel and sand (aggregate) will my foundation require? Most importantly, how much will it all cost?"A-Frame Structural Triangle (Theoretical Dimensions):Sides = 16'Base = 16'Angles opposite sides = 60 degreesAngle opposite base = 60 degreesArea = 110.85125168441 sq. ft.Perimeter = 48 ft.Framing:(2) 2"x 10"x 16' girders;(12) 2"x 6"x 12' rafters;(6) 2"x 6"x 8' joists;(4) 2"x 4"x 4' collar beams;(10) 4'x 4' plywood sheets for subflooring;(2) 16' framing braces for structural support against wind damage;(?) 3200-square feet of roof/wall sheathing material for exterior surface areas...*A few questions about the amount of roof/wall sheathing material needed to cover the 3200-square foot exterior surface area: "How much exterior sheathing will I need? How much will it cost? I understand that metal sheathing is preferred in the Copper River Basin region for its snow-shedding ability, so, given everything I've just said, what are my options for the A-frame I recently designed?"My total approach to this whole subsistence lifestyle (i.e. living off the land within a small, confined space) is probably all wrong. I understand that I might need to change my complete "mindset" and adopt a sort of NAUTICAL (or MARITIME) theme with my decor, furnishings and appliances.Since I'm really getting into boats anyway (my one chosen option for escaping the bitterly harsh winters of ALASKA's COPPER RIVER BASIN if all else fails), I feel that marine stoves, composting toilets, and an overall nautical aspect in the "finish work" might help me cope since sailboat cabins tend to be tiny, and I may need to transplant a lot of what I have to my seagoing vessel, "Vera Essie".www.geocities.com/wduncanbinns

Question by Herr VOLKMAR    |  last reply


What we want here!

I just want some instructables that would be useful to the people of LOST. Like outdoor/wilderness survival instructables and so on.

Topic by killajones    |  last reply


A question - Can we post ideas than builds/crafts?

I was thinking about doing instructables on knowledge on survival in the wilderness. But I'm just wondering if it's acceptable here. It seems that most of the instructions I've seen are crafts or builds. Just a friendly question; if not; then I will find a way to make it craft-ish

Topic by MGO_Count    |  last reply


How do I weave or make a cast net traditionally by hand using a shuttle and sheet bend knots?

What I would like to know is how to make a cast net traditionally using a shuttle and sheet bend knots, the problem is that I dont know how many initial loops to put on the metal ring in clove hitches, and where to put the spacers, any ideas?

Question by bongo matt    |  last reply


Another "My instructable doesn't show up"

I made an instructable about 24 hours ago and published it. I was really excited because I have been here for years and I registered only yesterday and decided to make my first instructable. But I've been PATIENTLY waiting for what seems like nearly 24 hours and I still don't see it in recent. https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-survive-in-the-wilderness-Altoids-STR8-S/

Topic by BalkanSpirit    |  last reply


I want to know the best items to place in a 5 gal survival bucket to leave in my car permanently for emergencies. Answered

When we are forced to leave town in an emergency, we will grab our food supply, water, clothing, blankets, and valuables from our home.  My bucket will have all the little things you could use in any survival situation such as being stuck on the interstate for days in winter or extreme heat that you wouldn't think about  in your hurry to leave.  Batteries corrode, liquids spill, food  medicines become outdated,  What great survival tools are there and how do you use them.  I want to be the best prepared survivor on the interstate or stuck in the wilderness (with my car) until it blows over..

Question by ruthvan    |  last reply


Three things

If you were to be stuck in the wilderness, and needed to survive, what three things would you want to have? No cars, phones, complete survival kits, etc. those just make it less fun. Only put single, survival type things in your list..you should be able to tell if it's "cheating" or not. If you choose food, don't be outrageous in it...an energy bar, not a case of them from costco. Guns can count, but bullets are separate...maybe ten bullets if you choose to have them as one of your three things.Mine:knifeflintWater bottleAlso, what "Creature Comfort" would you want? This can be something like a book, harmonica, stuffed animal, etc. Pets are allowed, as long as it's not your hunting dog, or your giraffe who gathers coconuts for you.Mine is my dog, Buck. =]Have fun, and be creative!

Topic by Weissensteinburg    |  last reply


Fenix Launches ReadySet

Fenix Intl is a little company with a great solution for backcountry power. It’s the Fenix ReadySet: a mobile power source with a sleek design, which fits (along with its solar panel) in a backpack. It can also be charged with a bicycle generator or plugged into the power main, if that’s handy. They are targeting it towards remote parts of Africa, where power is rare and sun is plentiful, but I’d use the ReadySet’s 5- and 12-volt outlets to finally rig my swamp fort with the Arduino-powered extras it clearly needs. In addition to the USB charging ports, it’s got cigar lighter adapters, so charging a phone and running a radio in the wilderness are options as well. Sound good to you? Just yesterday, Fenix launched a Kickstarter campaign where pledgers are rewarded with discounted ReadySets and other Fenix gear. It runs until August 10th, though as of writing it looks like they’ll reach their goal by the end of the day! (Update: goal now reached. But you can still get the units at a discount!) What’s more, our friends at Fenix have given us lots of units to play with and use as prizes. Thus, Instructables will be running an “Off the Grid” contest in early August-September, to be based on rural and mobile power sources, green charging, and renewable energy solutions. And we’ll be giving lots of ReadySets away. What can you do? How could you make it even cooler with a Fenix ReadySet? Post your ideas below in the comments, and we'll look forward to seeing your Instructables in the contest! -SelkeyMoonbeam

Topic by noahw    |  last reply


Outdoor Suspension Worktable: Thin, Rigid, Strong, Lightweight Panels/Sheets

Hi all! I go into the wilderness with my research and build electronic gizmos. See this overview of our camp: https://youtu.be/RSKbZFIG62g?t=2m11s and the desk in question! To support this me and Hannah Perner-Wilson have been trying to create tools for infrastructure for backpacking in the wild (also see her wearable studio descriptions http://www.plusea.at/?p=5385). The tool im working on right now is a modular lightweight desk we can suspend between trees. It's actually going pretty great! You can see Matt here soldering and building on this bench. it worked WAY BETTER than expected. I though it was gonna be TOO wiggly, or bouncy and impossible to work on. Turns out, it just worked really well! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJQrnl3-27c the only PROBLEM however was with our panels. I used these sheets of like MDF (or something). They are that material that pegboards are made out of. They were great because they were thin and rigid. But they were still pretty heavy and they absorbed water. I want your advice on materials. I want something that Is rigid! (will hold its own shape under compression and/or tension) Can support lots of tools and stuff on top Strong (will stand up to beatings in the field, and smashproof inside backpack) Thin (packs into backpack well)   Cut-able (less important) (won't give off evil fumes or particles if i need to cut or modify it at home (or even in the field) Not crazy-beans expensive (like it seems like carbon fiber panels are) I was thinking like fiberglass maybe? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-fiberglass-sheets/=xu6e5k is that a good idea? Carbon fiber (though super expensive)? what are your ideas?

Topic by blorgggg    |  last reply


I need a simulator simpler than OpenSim. Read the details. Do you have suggestions? Answered

When writing, it sometimes helps to build a diorama of a setting. You can then place characters and examine key points from different perspectives. You can even act out the entire scene. Yes, it sounds like playing with dolls, and it certainly is... but it is a huge help to visualize an event so that you can really describe it in your writing. The problem is, a diorama can be time-consuming and sometimes even expensive to set up... and I certainly don't have much space in my home for one. What I need is a virtual diorama. For the current project, I wish for a house with several rooms, a back yard, a small section of street, and a small piece of forested wilderness(all can be separate)... so I need a program that's fairly flexible. First thought was to set up a local OpenSim server, but I ran into a lot of difficulty getting it running and getting content (i.e. props and houses) is a nightmare. Worse, bugs and quirks made it difficult to use in practice. After two weeks of setting up a virtual environment, I crashed the server during a backup and corrupted the whole installation. So OpenSim is not suitable for me. I tried Second Life too, because I figured I'd rent a small piece of land and build on it. Second Life has the advantage of having a lot of content available, but getting a chunk of land big enough to do what I need is too expensive for me, and all the areas I checked out were too laggy. Other things I tried or examined were FPS video games (with map editors) and the Sims... both presented their own problems. I'm open to suggestions on either. Anyway, this is long-winded enough so I'm going to get right to requirements. Here's what I need: -3d simulation with an easily configurable environment. -Simple to use. Need "duh duh" simple" -No distractions. -Little loading or lag time. -A reasonably good selection of objects and props such as houses, furniture, streetlights, asphalt and plants. -The ability to place characters where I want them. Here's what isn't necessary: -Characters don't have to have any animation and can be as simple as cardboard cutouts. -Doesn't have to be free. -Doesn't have to be specific to any OS or hardware.

Question by DELETED_GuardianFox    |  last reply


Call to Makers for the Brighton Mini Maker Faire is OPEN

The biggest celebration of arts, crafts, science and technology in the South East returns to Sussex in September, and invites applications from all types of makers. Brighton Mini Maker Faire One of the county's most popular family events of the past two years, Brighton Mini Maker Faire was attended by over 7,000 people in 2012, and is back for a third time with an even bigger event over two days. Makers of all types are invited to apply to be part of the 2013 Maker Faire, which hopes to present an even more eclectic line-up, including workshops, talks and an educational programme. Says event co-founder and Build Brighton Director, Mike Pountney: “We’re looking for makers of all types to get involved with this year’s event. Whether you want to show off a project, teach skills to others, give a talk, run a workshop or just help out, we’d love to hear from you. The spirit of Maker Faire is very much innovation, experimentation and messing with convention – so the weirder and wilder your ideas and creations, the better. Alongside contemporary technology and hackery, we love to see people representing traditional, ancient or lost crafts, as well as practical projects and fine arts. If you make it, we want to hear about it!” Part of the Brighton Digital Festival, the Maker Faire features live demonstrations and hands-on activities run by Makers whose projects range from traditional arts and crafts, to science experiments, DIY, electronics and more. This year, a more extensive workshop and seminar programme is planned in addition to the main interactive exhibition. Organised by local volunteers, and Build Brighton Hackspace, Brighton Mini Maker Faire is supported using public funding by the National Lottery through Arts Council England. Feedback from the past two events has been overwhelmingly positive: “The event was incredible fun…I have never manned such a busy stall, talked to so many people or got so much positive feedback about what I was doing.” Emily Wright, maker “Seeing kids faces light up as they learn to make stuff is just fantastic, especially when they then want to do more” Neil Ford, volunteer “Brighton Mini Maker Faire is wonderful. Literally full of wonders.” Kerry Turner, visitor Key dates: Main event: Saturday 7th September 2013 Workshops day: Sunday 8th September 2013 Maker applications are now open at http://www.makerfairebrighton.com/makers-2013/ , with a deadline of 7th June. Applicants are asked to detail the nature of their project and how they propose to share it with visitors to the event.  All applicants will be contacted by 1st July. Other volunteers and educators who’d like to be involved should get in touch here: http://www.makerfairebrighton.com/volunteer/

Topic by DevelopingDreams  


rfid chip in food

I have had some problems with illegal rfid chipping by the avalon station los angeles county sheriffs. i have had to throw away alot of my belongings not knowing which item or items were chipped. this rfid frequency number was given to a motorcycle gang on the mainland ( i live on santa catalina island off the coast of southern california).........and this gang attacked and tried to murder me across state lines when i went on a trip to northern california/oregon.............these guys stalked and attempted to kill me at least 15-20 times during an eight month terrifying ordeal!  there are some "bad cops" on the force that did not want me to return to the island; as i was going to be a major figure in some lawsuits that are being prepared at this moment. gang officer david v mertens played hardball with a very innocent little resort town of avalon (google his name). he tried to tell the world that on the "misty" island of catalina that there were gangs here on the island.....which is hogwash as everybody in this little community knows everybody else; sometimes too much.......it is like having 3000 brothers and sisters! so after his little pr stunt........hey; there is a need for him on the island. he got kicked off of the island as he does not belong in a resort town. i am a person who has lived in the wilderness for the better part of 30 years; and am very hard to locate, capture or worse...........but they tried twice on the island using air assets (one a grey unmarked military helicopter and two days later a little blue and white private airplane)....but to no avail. they came "straight to me" in the canyons and forests of the island and in the forests of oregon and then back again in the forests of lake tahoe...........no one has ever found me like that........especially a bunch of city boys. when they don't capture me we all walk around town as if nothing happened!  my questions are how to detect these chips and destroy them on my backpack, other belongings and even chips that may very well have been inserted into some food i found on the backside of the island just after a sheriffs helicopter had taken off from the remote area. i thought the chopper was putting food in places just in case some of the survivors of a coastguard airplane/helicopter crash found their way to shore; but it might of been meant for me. since returning to the island i saw someone chip my day pack that i left unattended during a mountain run............so as an experiment i went out three days ago and hid the pack  in the local hills,  when i returned home i realized that i had lost my knife out of it's holster.  i go back 30 minutes later to look...........and guess what?........the pack was already gone!  then some sort of personnel folks came back for me; that i saw way down below me in that spot......looking directly at me! i always get hunches to get up and go before anything major is about to happen; which is how i got away from the motorcycle gang and the sheriffs that backed the gang cop. any suggestions you might give me in regards to these issues would be greatly appreciated.  thank you for your time. pack below

Topic by richard e dial    |  last reply


8 Reasons you'll rejoice when we hit $8 a gallon gasoline

This article in MarketWatch written by Chris Pummer mostly matches my opinions. My favorite is #2Here is the text:SAN FRANCISCO (MarketWatch) -- For one of the nastiest substances on earth, crude oil has an amazing grip on the globe. We all know the stuff's poison, yet we're as dependent on it as our air and water supplies -- which, of course, is what oil is poisoning.Shouldn't we be technologically advanced enough here in the 21st Century to quit siphoning off the pus of the Earth? Regardless whether you believe global warming is threatening the planet's future, you must admit crude is passé. Americans should be celebrating rather than shuddering over the arrival of $4-a-gallon gasoline. We lived on cheap gas too long, failed to innovate and now face the consequences of competing for a finite resource amid fast-expanding global demand.A further price rise as in Europe to $8 a gallon -- or $200 and more to fill a large SUV's tank -- would be a catalyst for economic, political and social change of profound national and global impact. We could face an economic squeeze, but it would be the pain before the gain.The U.S. economy absorbed a tripling in gas prices in the last six years without falling into recession, at least through March. Ravenous demand from China and India could see prices further double in the next few years -- and jumpstart the overdue process of weaning ourselves off fossil fuels.Consider the world of good that would come of pricing crude oil and gasoline at levels that would strain our finances as much as they're straining international relations and the planet's long-term health: 1. RIP for the internal-combustion engineThey may contain computer chips, but the power source for today's cars is little different than that which drove the first Model T 100 years ago. That we're still harnessed to this antiquated technology is testament to Big Oil's influence in Washington and success in squelching advances in fuel efficiency and alternative energy.Given our achievement in getting a giant mainframe's computing power into a handheld device in just a few decades, we should be able to do likewise with these dirty, little rolling power plants that served us well but are overdue for the scrap heap of history.2. Economic stimulusNecessity being the mother of invention, $8 gas would trigger all manner of investment sure to lead to groundbreaking advances. Job creation wouldn't be limited to research labs; it would rapidly spill over into lucrative manufacturing jobs that could help restore America's industrial base and make us a world leader in a critical realm.The most groundbreaking discoveries might still be 25 or more years off, but we won't see massive public and corporate funding of research initiatives until escalating oil costs threaten our national security and global stability -- a time that's fast approaching. 3. Wither the Middle East's cloutThis region that's contributed little to modern civilization exercises inordinate sway over the world because of its one significant contribution -- crude extraction. Aside from ensuring Israel's security, the U.S. would have virtually no strategic or business interest in this volatile, desolate region were it not for oil -- and its radical element wouldn't be able to demonize us as the exploiters of its people.In the near term, breaking our dependence on Middle Eastern oil may well require the acceptance of drilling in the Alaskan wilderness -- with the understanding that costly environmental protections could easily be built into the price of $8 gas. 4. Deflating oil potentatesOn a similar note, Venezuela's Hugo Chavez and Iran's Mahmoud Ahmadinejad recently gained a platform on the world stage because of their nations' sudden oil wealth. Without it, they would face the difficult task of building fair and just economies and societies on some other basis.How far would their message resonate -- and how long would they even stay in power -- if they were unable to buy off the temporary allegiance of their people with vast oil revenues? 5. Mass-transit developmentAnyone accustomed to taking mass transit to work knows the joy of a car-free commute. Yet there have been few major additions or improvements to our mass-transit systems in the last 30 years because cheap gas kept us in our cars. Confronted with $8 gas, millions of Americans would board buses, trains, ferries and bicycles and minimize the pollution, congestion and anxiety spawned by rush-hour traffic jams. More convenient routes and scheduling would accomplish that.6. An antidote to sprawlThe recent housing boom sparked further development of antiseptic, strip-mall communities in distant outlying areas. Making 100-mile-plus roundtrip commutes costlier will spur construction of more space-efficient housing closer to city centers, including cluster developments to accommodate the millions of baby boomers who will no longer need their big empty-nest suburban homes.Sure, there's plenty of land left to develop across our fruited plains, but building more housing around city and town centers will enhance the sense of community lacking in cookie-cutter developments slapped up in the hinterlands. 7. Restoration of financial disciplineFar too many Americans live beyond their means and nowhere is that more apparent than with our car payments. Enabled by eager lenders, many middle-income families carry two monthly payments of $400 or more on $20,000-plus vehicles that consume upwards of $15,000 of their annual take-home pay factoring in insurance, maintenance and gas.The sting of forking over $100 per fill-up would force all of us to look hard at how much of our precious income we blow on a transport vehicle that sits idle most of the time, and spur demand for the less-costly and more fuel-efficient small sedans and hatchbacks that Europeans have been driving for decades. 8. Easing global tensionsUnfortunately, we human beings aren't so far evolved that we won't resort to annihilating each other over energy resources. The existence of weapons of mass destruction aside, the present Iraq War could be the first of many sparked by competition for oil supplies.Steep prices will not only chill demand in the U.S., they will more importantly slow China and India's headlong rush to make the same mistakes we did in rapidly industrializing -- like selling $2,500 Tata cars to countless millions of Indians with little concern for the environmental consequences. If we succeed in developing viable energy alternatives, they could be a key export in helping us improve our balance of trade with consumer-goods producers. Additional considerationsWeaning ourselves off crude will hopefully be the crowning achievement that marks the progress of humankind in the 21st Century. With it may come development of oil-free products to replace the chemicals, pharmaceuticals, plastics, fertilizers and pesticides that now consume 16% of the world's crude-oil output and are likely culprits in fast-rising cancer rates.By its very definition, oil is crude. It's time we develop more refined energy sources and that will not happen without a cost-driven shift in demand.

Topic by Keith-Kid    |  last reply


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

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