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Windows Form app blocked by defender SmartScreen?

Hello. What can do if my Windows Form app blocked by defender SmartScreen?

Question by SzabolcsB7    |  last reply

Which movie maker version is it possible to...? Answered

In which version of windows movie maker can you put a video in the title overlay? I know it is possible because I did it with one of the old versions on my other computer, but when I threw it out I didn't remember to check. Any form of help would be greatly appreciated!

Question by earthquakegames    |  last reply

Sucsessful Forum Post From Windows 7

I am not sure if this is the first, but Instuctables has been viewed using Windows 7! For anyone not aware, the Windows 7 beta is free to download for the first 2.5 million visitors, and last I checked it was still available. This is a link to the download site.UPDATE: Microsoft has lifted the 2.5 million download limit and it will be available until January 24th Cnet Article

Topic by Ferrite    |  last reply

Is it possible to create a branching path instructable? Answered

Since I do a tutorial supporting Windows mac and Linux, I would love to have a branching path solution within insctructables. This to separate out the steps per operating system. Is that in some form possible? I came up with named anchors so far, to jump to the correct section within a step. The draft I got so far

Question by FriedZombie    |  last reply

How to build a computer cluster?

Does anyone know a good way to connect some computers together to form a computer cluster that I can use as a single computer. My goal is to add on to it to increase the speed/capacity of the unit.

Question by Pettrocity    |  last reply

I need a start-stop button for Windows Media Player

New to the forum so if an inappropriate post i apologize in advance. I am looking for or to build a simple device that will allow me to start and stop windows media player. Right now I have a simple batch file that opens windows media player in the full screen modes and plays a single video in the playlist. When it is finished it runs taskkill and closes. I use a wireless mouse to access the desktop icon that triggers the batch file. I would like to have a device that is plugged in with USB or wireless and has two buttons. One to start the video and one to stop it if I need to end it before it is finished. Ideally they would be big buttons labeled Go and Stop or colored Green and Red. I want children to be able to operate this computer. Does anyone have a clue if this exists in some form already or if it would be difficult to create? Thanks nerdoboy

Topic by nerdoboy    |  last reply

Controlling multiple Arduino pins in VB or C#? Answered

How do I control different pins of an Arduino via VB or C#. Something simple, for instance; if I created 4 buttons. Button 1 would turn ON pin 13, button 2 would turn OFF pin 13. Button 3 would turn ON pin 12 and button 4 would OFF pin 12. I know that it works via a serial port, but I can only control 1 pin. Simple stuff, but I just can't figure it out. PLEASE HELP!!!!

Question by cmcg182    |  last reply

Ads obscure/overlay forum comments

I'm having increasing incidents where the right hand side of comment text is covered over by the right-hand-side Advertisements. Usually this happens when there are lots of indented replies, where it is sort-of understandable, but in this example it is happening on a top-level comment: is particularly annoying that if I make my browser window widerl nothing moves to the new window margins. Surely the left part of the Instructables banner should be all the way at the left of the window, and the ads should be all the way on the right?I see this with both Firefox 3.0.4 and Safari 3.1.2 on Mac OSX 10.5.5 (although in Safari, the ads are "transparent.")

Topic by westfw    |  last reply

Windows - Monitor turning itself off after a few minutes.

Today I faced a problem that according to my internet research on the tablet is quite costly and annoying. First off my specs for the computer in the basic form: Windows 7 on 32GB of RAM with a decent Nvidia graphics card. Problem: After a few minutes of use the screen suddenly goes dark, like when going on standby but Windows itself still runs as normal. Quite often when it happens the screen brightness goes up to max right before the screen goes dark. Taking out the monitor cable and pluggin it back in usually gives the screen a few seconds until it goes dark again. Official solution as suggested in many forums and knowledgebases: Take check if the problem is the same when using a different video port on the card - checked and it was for me. Check it the fan is working as it could be the card shuts down from heat problems - checked and cleaned the heatsink while at it. Replace the graphics card if problem persists - Why the hell would I do that???? My solution: Take the card out. Clean it with some air, especially the heatsink and fan. If have and old school office using paper and pen you might have one of these fancy easers with a blue part that is really coarse and has some fine particles in it. They were used to remove ink or pen writings instead of pencil marks. If you don't have one take some aluminium foil and crunch it to a small ball. Use the eraser/foil to clean the contacts of the card. The gold plating should come out nice and shiny, if it still looks dull keep working it a few minutes longer. Just rub from one side to the other over the contacts. Once fully shiny remove all debris by blowing it off - pay special attention to the tiny gaps between the contacts!! If in doubt use an old toothbrush (dry and clean of course) to clean between the contacts, a cottum bud works too if you are desperate. Put the card back into the computer and you have a really high chance the monitor stays on and will work fine from now on.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply

How to Publish?

I have completed the entry form; embedded the YouTube code in proper place. After logging into Instructables, clicking on You Page, the drop-down menu displays Drafts (1) ..., clicking on Drafts (1) a window displays my entry with a checkbox preceding the entry, I click checkbox then click on the (publish) link and a new window appears that has three tabs. Current tab is Edit. Clicking on Publish fogs the page and the window returns to Edit. I have a Title and have placed a description as well. There is no alteration tried that ends with publication. If I click on preview - the proper video appears along with a Comment. I have been attempting various methods to publish since Friday, March 29th, including changes in browsers, and computers. I am stumped. I have finally answered my own question: One needs to place something in every box, i.e., Description, embed, and a graphic image. And place Tags. Then depress Upload Files. At that point it was self explanatory. Sometimes I am unable to see the tree in the forest. Maybe this may help another.

Question by kativsk  

How do I enlarge an image that's been projected onto a screen? Answered

Hey, I made this device that shines light through an LCD screen to project the image onto a window, which then reflects back to me, forming a sort of heads-up display. The LCD screen is about the size of a credit card, and I can't move it any further than ~40cm from the window. Another restriction is, any lens I use can't make the device any more than another 5cm thicker. (that includes distance between the lens and the screen) Is it possible to make the image appear any larger using any lenses? I've tried those plastic magnifying sheets and a lens from a projector tv, but they don't seem to make much difference. Thanks

Question by .Unknown.    |  last reply

need advice for process control software

I am new to process control software. We are working on a solar steam project that will require some form of automated control. We need suggestions for software (preferably open source and will run on a windows pc) that will handle temp and pressure data aquisition. The software should also be able to affect small electric motors based on the data parameters. Also any recommendations for temp and pressure (psi) sensors would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for any suggestions

Topic by culinadge    |  last reply

Can I convert an old window into a working door for a child's playhouse made from a water tank, or use something else?

I'm building a playhouse from a cube shaped 275 gallon water tank and need to figure out how to build a working door for a small child. The tank will form the basic structure as it is going to be partially buried on one side, like a "hobbit hole" and I figured the tank would be water-proof. I'm still working out the details, and figure the door needs to be at least big enough I can reach in to remove the child easily. (The tank will be ventilated through the filling cap on the top and a dryer vent on an exposed side wall.) I plan to cut a hole in the side of the tank once I figure out how to make the door. I know this is a strange project, but it should be a lot of fun for my little hobbit this summer, and I appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!

Question by hobbit hole builder    |  last reply

Externally Mounted LCD/LED TVs?

I was going to wrap my 1996 Fleetwood Seawind Motorhome and have sponsor spots.  However, I rather hang 55" LED/LCD TVs on both flanks of the beast. The issues as I see them are as follows: How to power the TVs--I think I can cable out the rear windows and run an inverter to provide them with AC--Please give me inverter size sufficient to drive two LCD/LED units Getting a TV signal to the TVS.  Using a Macbook Air, I could use Airplay to stream MP4 video to the TVs, or just hardwire them with HDMI-Lightening connectors.  A hardwire solution is, again, possible via the rear windows. The pivotal engineering riddle is ho to secure, insulate and protect the units on the back end of the vehicle.  I was thinking a sheet of Acetate to cover and protect the faces of the TVs. Input on what form the shock-absorbing, waterproof frame could/should take is welcome.

Question by BoydM1    |  last reply

Trying to upload images in Chrome ends up doing nothing

1) Using latest stable Chrome for Windows 8.1 2) Viewing image library 3) Clicking "Upload Images" 4) Drag-dropping an image into the target area 5) Press the orange "Upload" button. The button disables. 6) wait ... wait ... wait ... nothing ever happens Chrome Version 45.0.2454.85 Curiously, the new uploader dialog for this bug report form doesn't allow me to even browse to an image, but the old uploader seems to work, but after uploading, the screen shot of the bug doesn't show up below, either.

Topic by jwatte    |  last reply

Our latest project

Read this description: So I haven't posted anything in a long while, and, as well as work, one of the this was down to me and a few friends getting together and forming a YouTube channel called "MTNunlimited". It started out when we did drama at school (a subject which we no longer take) we had a tonne of ideas that we never got to use, and so we can now showcase them on the YouTube channel. Recently, our local youth theatre announced it's closure this Easter, and so we've decided to offer some kind of alternative to anyone who wanted to join in with amateur film-making. Our goal is simply to have fun. If you click onto our channel here, you'll see that we still have a long way to go before we're near the same calibre as a lot of current Internet filmmakers. This is why we have turned to the instructables community for support. We have a few ideas, but we would love to hear other people's thoughts on what we could possibly base a new video on. We'd also greatly appreciate any tips or tricks of the trade that we have not yet been enlightened on. Don’t consider this ‘spam’, as that’s very much the opposite of why I made this forum topic. I posted this to hear guidance and advice from people who have a bit more experience than us. Here's a little montage I made of what we do, in the form of a cinematic trailer, enjoy! And once again, thanks for any support offered :) - Lowney

Topic by Lowney    |  last reply

VB 2008 AxWindowsMediaPlayer Control Help?

Hey everyone. If your an advanced user in Visual Basics 2008 Express Edition, I could use some help. Right now, I'm working on a video presentation program for my Home Theater PC. I'm planning on hooking up my computer to my T.V and using it as a secondary screen. I will then run an HDMI cable to my monitor, and use that as my main screen. My mouse and keyboard are wireless so it won't pose a problem. But, anyways. I'm getting off topic... I made a form with a bunch of controls on it. It has 10 textboxes for video URLs and 5 textboxes for audio URL. It has 2 AxWindowsMediaPlayers on it. One for music, the other for video. The main one (Bigger one) will be used for video, and it will also act as a control window. So, when I click play one one the textboxes, it will open the file up one both Media Players and will begin to play. I know the coding for that, its just I need to know how to control the 3rd Media Player, on a different form. So basically, the 3rd Media Player would copy the 1st media player. Any help would be much appreciated.  Thanks. 

Question by brandencota  

I need your help! Writers and bored people! Citizen Science: Pens vs. Computers!

I'm conducting a research, and I require all ye's cooperation in this! (Indeed, this is citizen science) If you would like to participate in this tiny research, then would ye lassies and lads care to follow the below instructions? I'll write a high school-level research paper on this once there's so much data, that I'd be swimming in the stuff. If you feel like you can't do it, please do smother the link around liberally, so that other people that can answer it, will answer it! Do your part for science! =========================== Directions: You will need the ff.: > a coin > pen/pencil and paper > a stopwatch of any sort > a word processor (a word count is useful) > an internet connection (for posting the results here, of course!) Then do this: 1) Flip a coin. If heads, you'll be using plain ol' pen-and-paper (well, you could use a pencil, too), but if tails, you'll be doing the WPM's on a word processor. 2) Choose one topic below: > A > My zombie apocalypse survival plan. > B > Windows vs. Linux vs. Mac; which is better and why. > C > Why Am I Even Writing This? (dump your thoughts here) > D > Why I like my favourite movie/novel/whateverart genre. 3) Get your stopwatch, start timing and start writing (in essay form) on your prescribed writing medium (see step 1). There is no time or word limit here, however it is better if something more substantial is to be written. 4) Once you feel that you've completed your thoughts on your written piece, stop the timer and count the number of words you've written. Record the two pieces of info somewhere (I need the time in hh:mm:ss format). . . WAIT: It is recommended that you do the above steps first before proceeding to read and fill out the form in step 5. If you read the form in step 5 first, you will jeopardize the information that the form in step 5 seeks. . . . SERIOUSLY: Do steps 1-4 first, then come back down here. This is science we're talking about here. Well, if you're done with them, then sure, you may pass. . . 5) Copy-paste and fill out the following form (i.e. everything in-between the pluses, including the pluses) and post it in this forum (and delete the stuff in brackets ("[ ]", "< >"), including the brackets themselves), and no, you don't need to post your essays here: ++++++++++ ==|| FORM START ||== Topic chosen: Writing medium: Word count: Time: a) Where do you prefer writing (paper or computer)? If mixed preference, elaborate. b) In what environment did you write in? [i.e. your room, library, outdoors (if indoors, indicate if there was any sun shining through any visible windows or if it was nighttime)] c) How cluttered was your working environment (how messy)? [rate from 1-10 (decimals are accepted); describe how bad/wonderful your working environment was] d) What did you feel while you were writing on your word processor/paper? [how comfortable were you; general emotions] e) Did you encounter any difficulty in sorting out your ideas whilst writing? Please elaborate. f) Did you read this form before you started writing? If yes, why? Tell me. If no, very good! g) Did you fully understand all of the instructions? Don't be shy. kkAATCGx1 ==|| FORM END ||== ++++++++++ Congratulations! You've contributed to science! If you have any suggestions or inquiries (I really feel like I've missed something here), feel free to PM me about it! (I'd really much better prefer PM's over forum posts so as not to clutter up the semi-ultra-subjective data here). All data that is to be posted down here shall be considered open and free to anyone. If you would like to draw your own conclusions, then feel free to grab the data, but make sure to link (or cite) back here! ======================================= Also, despite intending to write a high school-level research paper on this, it's not actually for any research subject. I'm just really bored... and curious. Additionally, is this topic even in the right category? Oh, and belated Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to y'all!

Topic by nutsandbolts_64  

How can I get Linux on a T-Mobile phone?

     I have an old T-Mobile Dash cell phone.  I want to run some form of Linux (or another open-source OS) rather than Windows Mobile.  I want to be able to do open-source voIP, text, etc.  I also want to be able to use T-Mobile's supposedly excellent international coverage (I'm going to England).  The phone can connect to a computer and has a microSD slot.  Any recommendations are welcome.  Thanks! P.S.  I heard that I could partition off part of the microSD to use as extra RAM.  How do I do this? I'm also thinking of toughening it up to survive drops, falls, water, etc.  Any recommendations as to what to do for that are appreciated.

Question by mad magoo    |  last reply

crt monitor image distortion

I have huge 21 inch crt monitor which i found yesterday in the trash i plugged it in now. it works but the image has some distortions the color that should be black is bright gray and all other colors are like addition to it. the image looks very bright and with bright gray tint. setting brightness and contrast to minimum does not help much there are some kinda scratch lines across the display. the lines form a shape of a 'lightning' with horizontal lines and diagonal that connect them. the density of lines is higher when i switch to higher resolution the image size is severely affected by the brightness of what is displayed. it grows larger about 1 cm on each side when i open a window with white background other than that the monitor works ok in all resolutions from the bios screen and up to 1600x1200 what can be the problem ?

Topic by 11010010110    |  last reply

Wine Bottle Terrarium - Great for homes, offices, studios alike!

Well, i must say, the internet has been rather slow of late, and i have not found anything good to share with you all for a while.Im not a massive fan of gardens, or plant life, i have a few almost dead cacti on my window sill..However, this great idea has got me thinking, and would be ideal for my home, or in the studio at work. Firstly, i love the idea of recycling the glass bottle, a clear bottle is recommended, but apparently the smokey ones do work also.The main bulk of plant life is in moss form. Which i think gives it kinda a mini landscape look.I would make a full instructable, but there is not alot to it (push moss into bottle). I also have enough projects awaiting write up!I would love to see any pictures if anyone manages one.Via, LifehackerThe original can be found at Dr VinoInspired by the work of Paula Hayes

Topic by gmjhowe    |  last reply

Tree Trunks - Sap - Lichen - Help!

Hey folks, I would really appreciate advice on my first wood project! I have acquired chopped tree trunks in various sizes, ranging diameter 20-30cm, height up to 50cm. I dont really know the history of the wood but i think it was left out in the rain after being cut. I have stored in my garage now. They are dry to the touch. All trunks are seeping with Sap and the bark is starting to discolour by some form of lichen. My aim was to use trunks as part of a shop window display. The plan was to sand the surfaces of the tops and bottoms, whilst retaining the bark. Treat the trunks with a wood preserver and primer then possibly gloss the whole trunk.  Is it at all possible the sap will stop if i do what im planning? And can the lichen be removed in order for the bark to look more attractive?  I have attached a link to a similar question from a few years ago, unfortunately it doesnt answer my query. Any help and direction is greatly appreciated  Sheena

Question by SheenaM16  

peculiar issue with arduino clones; thoughts?

So a little while back, I bought about 10 arduino nano clones. I'd used the nanos before, and really like the form factor, so i got some off of ebay. they worked great, and you'd know no difference in performance compared to other boards, these new ones seemed to boot faster even. unlike most, the ones i got dont use an FTDI chip, but rather a chip labeled as "CH340G". these boards were working perfectly until i was trying to test some code that was very close to the maximum size you can fit in an atmega328. it was 30,000 bytes, and mostly because of the included libraries. when i hit upload, it compiled fine, but once it got to the "uploading" phase nothing happened on the arduino board and after a while it threw an error claiming a response of 0x00, if memory serves. it didnt seem like the atmega was resetting, so i probed it with my oscilloscope, but it certainly was resetting. i thought maybe the capacitor on the reset line had issues, so i replaced it to no avail. everything seems fine in windows and i can still talk to the program previously on the chip via the serial terminal. the only way i can seem to upload code now is via the icsp header. so im wondering if anyone knows what is going on here, or how i can fix the issue?

Question by zack247    |  last reply

What would be the VERY BEST way for me to TRANSITION into my newly adopted off-grid, survivalist, subsistence lifestyle? Answered

A 16'x16'x16', 256-square foot, A-frame cabin on an elevated 3' concrete paver floating DekBlock foundation with a 3'x 6'8" front flush door, one rear 48"x 48"horizontal slider window, and another upper 24"x 24" horizontal slider window for the sleeping loft.I'm thinking that one of those standard U.S. Stove designs might provide just a little too much heat for my needs up in the Copper River Basin region of ALASKA's rural backcountry. Who knows? What are your suggestions for the above described "habitat"? Where can I find the best deals for my 256-square foot space? (Heating/ventilation-wise, we're speaking of subzero temperatures and heavy snowfall, so, I don't believe that "opening a window" is a practical solution for me if it gets too hot and smokey inside my A-frame.) Plus, I've done the HEATING ESTIMATE for the A-frame I'm going to build and the numbers come out to about a 620,000 btuh (heat loss) for the new dimensions I'm finally settling on: 16'x16'x16' or 256sq.ft. This calculation is for -50 degrees F with cold floor, ceiling, and glass surfaces taken into account. (Insulation isn't a factor this early in the design.) "Wow!" I thought at first. "A 620,000 btuh HEAT LOSS! I reckon you can never have too much stove even for an A-frame design." (Being that A-frame cabins retain heat so well, and that my sleeping loft may get really HOT in the Winter, this was a preliminary concern.) Foundation:(4) 8"- diameter cardboard cylindrical concrete forms for pin-point piers;(4) 84" reinforcement rods for pin-point concrete forms;(16) Bricks for base of footing;(24) Layout stakes;(8) 5' batter boards;(1) Spool of wire for joining the two 14" reinforcement rods for each footing base;(1) Spool of line for marking building layout lines;(?) Bags of cement;(?) Bags of gravel;(?) Bags of sand...*A few questions about the amount of concrete needed for the four footings and the four concrete piers: "How much concrete will be needed for four 8"-deep concrete footings poured into four 16"-diameter, 44"-deep holes with each containing four bricks and the four reinforcement rod supports? How much concrete will be needed to fill four 8"-diameter pin-point concrete pier forms to an estimated height of about 80"-inches? How many total bags of cement, gravel and sand (aggregate) will my foundation require? Most importantly, how much will it all cost?"A-Frame Structural Triangle (Theoretical Dimensions):Sides = 16'Base = 16'Angles opposite sides = 60 degreesAngle opposite base = 60 degreesArea = 110.85125168441 sq. ft.Perimeter = 48 ft.Framing:(2) 2"x 10"x 16' girders;(12) 2"x 6"x 12' rafters;(6) 2"x 6"x 8' joists;(4) 2"x 4"x 4' collar beams;(10) 4'x 4' plywood sheets for subflooring;(2) 16' framing braces for structural support against wind damage;(?) 3200-square feet of roof/wall sheathing material for exterior surface areas...*A few questions about the amount of roof/wall sheathing material needed to cover the 3200-square foot exterior surface area: "How much exterior sheathing will I need? How much will it cost? I understand that metal sheathing is preferred in the Copper River Basin region for its snow-shedding ability, so, given everything I've just said, what are my options for the A-frame I recently designed?"My total approach to this whole subsistence lifestyle (i.e. living off the land within a small, confined space) is probably all wrong. I understand that I might need to change my complete "mindset" and adopt a sort of NAUTICAL (or MARITIME) theme with my decor, furnishings and appliances.Since I'm really getting into boats anyway (my one chosen option for escaping the bitterly harsh winters of ALASKA's COPPER RIVER BASIN if all else fails), I feel that marine stoves, composting toilets, and an overall nautical aspect in the "finish work" might help me cope since sailboat cabins tend to be tiny, and I may need to transplant a lot of what I have to my seagoing vessel, "Vera Essie"

Question by Herr VOLKMAR    |  last reply

Mac VS PC?

I'm posting this to share my experience and opinion of Mac's VS PC's. I welcome you to read and share your story. For many years I was a PC. I believed whole-heartedly that I needed Windows, and I needed Microsoft. Then I bought my last laptop. It wasn't cheap. I used it everyday for work and therefore it was important that it ran efficiently. Like many of you, I suffered from "blue screens" and on occasion a "crash". There were viruses and trojans and attacks from all places, you'd think I was engaged in war! Then the proverbial "last straw" occurred. I needed to upgrade into some new software, and I received a simple message that I needed to also upgrade the Windows Service Pack. Hmmm.... Seemed easy enough. (Been there. Done that.) So, off I went to download the SP (from a reputable source) and then "Success!"... I got a message that said "Successfully installed. Windows must restart to complete process". Hmmm... Ok... I pressed through the process to restart my machine and there it began.... The long and never ending cycle had started! My laptop shut down, started to boot and then upon seeing the (dare I say it?) Vista Start Up Screen, my laptop promptly repeated itself and began to reboot... o_0 ??? This went on for sometime... *anger growing*... NOTHING I did would stop this, or should I say NOTHING would START my laptop. It was forever entangled into a mysterious vortex of computer "Neverland". I was NOT impressed. I had to borrow another computer to do some research and found very little at the time to explain this conundrum. Then I tried Microsoft. I used their "so-called" online customer service department and was put in touch with someone who was younger than my oldest pair of shoes. He also couldn't speak English very well, so without being incredibly rude I requested another agent. Upon conversing with agent #2, I knew I was in trouble... (Was Agent #2 related to Agent #1???) ... o_0 ??? *shakes head* I will give credit to Agent #2. He was nice. He tried his hardest to suggest everything under the sun, but alas, we both concluded it was hopeless. The final bluescreen error number confirmed the toe tag on my machine. So I was left with having to reinstall the entire system and lose EVERYTHING on my laptop. *fuming mad now* Then it occurred to me that "Windon'ts" (as I affectionately call them now), opted not to provide me with necessary disks to reinstall their OS during my purchase. It seems that the cost of a CD has become so expensive for Microsoft that they are forced to leave it up to the consumer to fend for themselves. Clearly, they are suffering financially, No? When I rationalized this logic with Agent #2, he suggested that I purchase Windows 7 as it had just come out and was much better than Vista (No kidding.... *rolls eyes*). But why? Why prey-tell should I have to purchase anything? My laptop was only 14 months old (conveniently out of warranty) and may as well have been a pre-historic dinosaur as far as Agent #2 was concerned. So where did me and Agent #2 leave off? He suggested I "borrow" an installation disk from someone and reinstall windows vista and start over... *tics forming now...* He assured me that my "service call to Microsoft" would remain as "unsolved". (Oh btw, at this point we were regulars on the telephone). So my ONE LAST QUESTION to him was: "What assurance do I have, after reinstalling Vista and then the SP I need, that this problem won't just start again?" - His reply was, "Well, it shouldn't"... Straw officially broken. Now we come to my life with my new MacBook. Clearly much more expensive than a Windon'ts PC, but wait... Is it? Let's review. There are more "open-source apps" available to a Mac (meaning you get them for free), and in most cases I find they are the same if not better than the paid for MS version. The critical applications that I use everyday for work, installed fine and without issue. I also received "DISKS" from Apple. Apparently they can afford to give customers what they pay for.... Upon opening the box, I was running my new laptop within 5 minutes. Easy Peasy... The time alone that I save from all that aggravation is money in the bank. Do I miss anything? Yes, actually I do (or maybe I don't). What I miss out on are bluescreens, viruses, trojans, attacks, intrusions, crashes and all the other fun stuff I got to know and expect with a PC. So why tell all of you about this now? Well yesterday I noticed that the bottom of my MacBook had a slight bulge in the case. *Heart skipped a beat*. Then after some mild panic, with visions of my last ordeal swirling in my head, I went online in search of why, and found the answer within 5 minutes. Apparently this was something Apple became aware of and had a simple solution. Fill out a contact information form along with my serial number and I got a confirmation message. Not only would I receive an ENTIRELY NEW bottom to my MacBook, I would receive a full set of screws AND a screwdriver!!! All FREE OF CHARGE. NO SHIPPING FEES. COST ME NOTHING!!! *shocked* Now I was beaming. *ear to ear grin* I felt validated for my departure from PC. Then in some kind of absurd customer service universe, I received a knock at the door. My replacement parts had arrived!!! - Less than 24 hours later... *mouth gaping and eyes wide* So I thank you for reading this. I encourage you to share your opinions. If you don't know who I am. I am canucksgirl. I'm a Mac. Not a PC.

Topic by canucksgirl    |  last reply

I want to use nerve impulses from muscles as a data input. Answered

I need to find out how to get a nerve impulse isolated and use it as an input.  I beleive a myoelectric electrode with a window comparator may work.  Instead of using an op amp to boost the impluse to run a motor, I want to use the impulse as a data entry signal.  I know that prosthesis use this system and I want to adapt it for signal input.  My goal is to use several nerve impulse sources to be used as a data input device to allow those with CP, or amputations to more easily communicate.  I am trying to bring a very old idea I had 20+ years ago to reality.  I have joined an open source prothesis forum as well as an Arduino forum.  I want to use the Arduino to "translate" the input combinations into a data form that a computer, PDA, or smart phone could use.  I want to keep this open source as I am not interested in a commercial venture. There are basically two steps.  The first is to use an Arduino to convert 5 touch pad inputs into 120 "characters" that are identified with various platforms.  5 inputs will generate 120 combinations (5x4x3x2x1) and that will give me a simple keyboard input.  I have to work up a timing method so that the Arduino will identify when buttons are pushed individually vs at the same time.  Next to have the Arduino generate a digital output that is compatable with a keyboard to keep the application flexible. The next step will be to identify intended muscle nerve signals from background nerve signals and 'filter" out unintentional signals.  Next, the buttons with the myoelectric inputs as the input to the Arduino. My goal is to have a myoelectric (or similar) input device that does not need muscle movement to generate data that is recognized by (practically) all devices.  It could be used for text generation, then voice synthesis, as well as a data signal for motors on the prosthesis to give better control.  Touch screen devices are proving to be a big challenge for those with prosthesis. Thank you, Paul H

Question by messyworkbench    |  last reply


The “9/11” World Trade Center disaster horrified Americans as they witnessed people leaping out of 100 story windows to their death. There was simply no available escape system to facilitate a safe yet quick evacuation to the ground floor. Elevators weren’t working and internal staircases were blocked by sporadic debris, black smoke and fires. The situation was virtually hopeless to the point where many chose to jump rather than be burned alive. So here we are, with technology capable of constructing 100+ story buildings but without the means for external fire-escapes. Unfortunately, the public isn’t aware that at our current level of technology we can finally address this problem with our architects. We are talking about a means to rapidly deploy a flexible escape tube-chute from 100+ stories that hangs along a guy-wire which is pre-attached to our escape floor and anchored to the ground (Fig-1). This tube-chute escape system will deliver a person from 100-stories down to ground level and safely outside the building in under 10-minutes. Prior to deployment, the entire system is housed inside a container that is either attached to the outside of the building or built into a structured wall, opening to the outside at various floor levels. When in deployment, the inlet of the flexible escape tube will be anchored to the outside wall of a designated escape window and contain an inner diameter sufficiently sized to accommodate an individual. The tube’s exit end is tethered to a rope-wire that runs down our permanently located guy-wire, through a series of guy-wire slip-rings, and quickly pulls the tube's exit end to ground. The rope-wire is permanently attached to a winch-motor located on the ground. During deployment, the winch pulls the tube’s rope-wire down to ground level by slipping along the guy-wire rings. As the tube-chute deploys downward, it automatically forms a spiral about the guy-wire, creating a very long escape slide that gets anchored to the ground. A fully deployed tube-chute exhibits three basic attachments for stability: 1) a set of flexible slip-rings and tethers attached between the permanent guy-wire and tube to form its downward spiral, 2) a tube-chute inlet anchored to the outside of the building at various floor levels, and 3) a tube-chute exit anchored to the ground and providing a fully deployed and reliable escape system ready for use. As each person enters the tube-chute, they are only aware of the outside winds which buffet the tube plus the internally hanging cloth fingers used to slow their descent as they slide down to safety. They are not aware of any height and feel relatively secure due to their complete envelopment by both the tube and its touching fingers.  A 100-story descent would take about 6-to-10-minutes to reach the outside safety of ground while travelling at a speed of roughly 5-fps (3.5 MPH) as regulated by the spiral-ramp and internal cloth-fingers retarding gravity.   Technical  Details: The tube-chute is reinforced by a sewn-in spiral wire that gives it strength and flexibility. Its tube is made of heavy duty nylon, much like the large yet light air-hoses used on many high stress applications today. The tube cork-screws its way down and around a permanently deployed guy-wire that stretches from the designated floor of the building to the ground. The tube is sized for a person to enter and slide down the spiraling pathway until he reaches ground level. Gravity will act to propel the sliding individual down the tube. To counter gravity, we rely on the tube’s spiraling design to produce a gradually declining ramp that slows and checks an individual’s descent speed. The number of spirals and ramp-angle necessary to reach the ground will be sized to limit the gravity-induced speed so as not to endanger an individual’s sliding descent. That and the internally hanging cloth fingers guard against excessive speeds and will prevent skin-burns from the sliding friction. The tube’s nylon material is impregnated with anti-flammable chemistry and its exterior is aluminized to prevent radiative heatloads from causing a fire due to either direct flames or the radiant heat from indirect flames. A final note on the overall weight for this flexible tube-chute structure. Clearly, since we are designing a deployable fire-escape system, its weight must be kept to a minimum for deployment safety and reliability. Items such as the cloth materials, tube-wire reinforcements, and spiraling tube tether attachments must be carefully chosen for weight, strength and durability. While issues of weathering may not be that important, as it will be housed and protected from the elements, the shelf life of the various materials chosen is of paramount importance.

Topic by RT-101    |  last reply

Broken backlight on laptop screen - Project ideas anyone?

I'm opening up to this lovely community since your creativity never fails to amaze me. I've had a laptop that has been sitting in my closet for about a year (Its a Thinkpad T43 i believe) which was in fair shape until one day it would no longer function, hence the closet bit. I got a little curious when I was digging through clothes and found it again, and played around on it and noticed if you held a light directly on it you could just barely see the screen, so I managed to reinstall windows, hook it up through S-video to my TV, and voila. But I dont use it that much, so I wanted to do some kind of project with it. I've seen the DIY projectors made form overheads, which would seem like a logical choice since it'd be easy enough with a working screen that has no backlight, but the thing is I already own a projector capable of 720p/1080i so I'm skipping this one.I've seen people do multi touch with screens before (ie things like . but I'd want to do something larger. Then there's things like are cool, but i dont have the need for something large in that format. I'd like to do something like a large coffee table with multitouch (like Surface) but I'm not sure how possible that is to do. Here's a rough sketchup of the basic idea (very basic, very rough. I'm at work wiht only access to MSPaint, and should be doing work anyway :) but with the 56 inch they have that mirror setup and I dont think you could do that with something that low to the ground (like a coffee table), correct?i'd love to hear your thoughts on that, but also.. what do you guys think? Got any good ideas for laptop with just the backlight blown? I dont really need a fileserver, and I have another laptop, so if you guys have any wild ideas out there.. I'm game.Cheers,Ian

Topic by ianidas    |  last reply

&quot;Unextract&quot; Converted Batch Files

Have you ever wondered how to do something in batch that someone has already done and wrapped it nicely in a little .exe file? Some people like to keep their batch programming secrets to themselves, and don't want to share, so then convert their batch file to .exe. But you can't discover their secrets if they have converted it to .exe, because all you will find is gibberish. Before I will tell you how to "unextract" an .exe, you must now how ".bat to .exe" programs work. What they basically do is "wrap" a batch file with an executable; think about a Christmas present. Pretend the gift inside is the secrets of the batch file, and the wrapping on the outside is like the executable, which prevents you from "seeing" the secrets inside. But this is no ordinary present, the wrapping on the outside can not be torn or opened, you must press a button in order to to "unwrap" it. But when it "unwraps", it shows you what it is, but hiding the secrets. If you couldn't fully understand that, here is what actually happens. Try to compare the two.Batch files in executable form cannot be viewed as the batch language. If you open it in notepad, you will get a whole bunch of symbols. In the philosophy above, pressing the "button" is the same as opening the file as an executable. It opens just like a batch file, but if you try to edit it, you won't be able to read it. What the executable does, is temporarily extracts the batch file within it, to a temp folder.Now to the "how to" part. Here is where that "temp" (temporary) folder is: %userprofile%\Local Settings\TempNow all you have to do is copy and paste that into a windows explorer address bar. You will now be in a temp folder where the batch file will be dumped. Now you have to run the .exe file. But now you do have to get your hands dirty (virtually!). Search in each folder till you find a batch file, most commonly called batchfile.bat. Simply right click, press edit, and your in!So that's how to "unextract" a converted batch file! (note: I didn't make it an instructible because, well, no one likes a one step instructable!)Good Luck!

Topic by Arbitror    |  last reply

Crazy, Amazing and Delicious AIR Experience

What a wild ride... So here's the recipe.  Take one computer illiterate lady who's got a lot of random skills she's learned along the way and throw her into a room with 12 other people who's second  language is CAD or 0110001 or some other variation of looking into the eye of a screen and typing sweet nothings into its curvacious keyboard. Man did I feel like a fish in the desert.  I left orientation completely overwhelmed, flattened, and having no idea what I was doing there amongst all these obviously tech savvy folks. Once again odd man out. Now let me be clear, this has nothing to do with the people. Everyone was super sweet and willing to help. I was out of my element, which is exactly what I needed. For as long as I can remember, I've always thought in art. From the clothing and accoutrements I make for myself  to the images I capture. From the food that I create to the materials I bind together, or the mood i can set in an empty space if given a couple days to have my way with it.  Creation and art are an integral part of my existence as an external expression of my internal voice. So having three paid months to spend on my own work was a dream come true. For the first time in my life I was able to really focus on my work with 100 %  of my attention and not juggle how I was going to pay rent    and which piece goes where or how am I going to afford that thing I need for it.  It was fantastic to have that kind of creative freedom and I feel incredibly lucky to have had that opportunity.   I was able to finally create my stained fruit windows, something I've been imagining and working on in my head for many many years. I was able to experiment with different coatings and textures, slice thickness and transparency  to best preserve the beauty of the sliced fruit.  I spent day after day in the kitchen testing gluten free meal-worm flour bread amongst other insect delights. This was really an important experience for me due to my issues with factory farms and its effects on the environment but still feeling my bodies need for animal protein to perform. Once I felt comfortable with my results in the kitchen, I decided to explore the rest of the workshop at Autodesk / Instructables. Let me start by saying Holy $hit is that shop incredible. There are classes that are required to be able to use any one piece of equipment from the 3D printers to the drill. There were tools in the metal shop that I knew how to use but was unable to because I didn't take the class or get signed off. I recommend that any new AIR be realistic in what they want to use and take those classes right away. If you need a hole drilled and you aren't signed off on the drill, just ask someone who is signed off, they'll drill that hole for you because it's that kind of place. Time goes fast and if there is something you want to learn, go for it because when are you going to have that opportunity again? All the instructors are great and willing to answer all your crazy questions. A special thanks to Gabe for helping me so many times with all my computer questions and when the laser cutter doesn't feel like cooperating. (I did mention I'm computer Illiterate right?) On that note, I have learned soooooo much here and though I still feel that computers are generally going to shut down when I touch them, I have learned how to create an image and laser cut that image. I started with leather and made a few water bottle sheaths, dog collars, a leather necklace and a beautiful bag.  Now I'm working with wood and the detail is pretty incredible. I dabbled in the 3D software world and learned a little with Fusion 360 but I wasn't willing to take my precious residency time to learn it. But I do plan on pursuing that education. It's interesting to me and important for the way the world is going which I'm still trying to wrap my head around being a very old school DIY hand made kind of gal. I really cherished my time as an Artist in Residence at Instructables. Honestly, when I was there, I never wanted to leave and would stay into the wee hours. The people are very kind and its like a large quirky family. I've never worked anywhere where employees voluntarily and enjoyably come in on the weekend to work. By the time my residency was over, I think there were forty-five Airs. So many interesting and creative people.  What an amazing idea this is. What an amazing opportunity for growth this program has given so many people. A truly beautiful gift that I am forever grateful for. Thank you to all the people in the foreground who help us on a daily basis and form this place and for those behind the scenes that make it possible. Thank you, you are so appreciated. Sincerely, Rima Khalek

Topic by rimamonsta    |  last reply

An idea for highly directional and loud loudspeakers

I am currently playing around with vibration experiments.Mainly in the ultrasonic range though.But when messing around with some vibration speakers I found a not so well documented misuse for themEveryone wants a big TV these days but once you have it the sound often turns out to come from a tin can.Those with a good entertainment or at least stereo system won't mind hooking the to it.The rest usually opts for a sound bar or how I like to call them shredderbox.Sooner or later they just fail to produce the sound you had on the first day - or they cost a small fortune.What is the secret to a powerful speaker?Firstly efficiency.Secondly the design.You need the right material to produce a more or less even reaction at all intendet frequencies.The design makes sure those frequencies that need extra attention get more volume output, like by using a little pipe for the low frequencies.Some even include a dedicate speaker for these low volumes.What if you could just build you own soundbar on a budget?If you have a failing soundbar with the actual speakers as the problem you could salvage the electronics.In case you can make do with headphone input or RCA connections than any cheap amplifier will do.Leaves the speakers...Vibration speakers are still underestimated for their uses...I tried the the usual approach of using a glue on vibro speaker:Place it on surface tha gives a re more or less decent sound.The thing is though that there is no ideal surface for them.A table can sound like the highs are missing, a hardwood desk might not produce any low frequencies while a window or plaster board wall bring the problem of wiring and vibrations.To check the reactions of sound on different media I, one day, mounted one speaker under a big tin can.Right in the center.The fun hit me when my tests with water were over and tried to play a song with the empty can.Of course there was some degree of tin can sound but the directional qualities together with the wide frequency spectrum made me experiment.The key is to find the right material and shape!You want something that is hard enough to vibrate properly but soft enough to allow for lower frequencies.I tried pipes, boxes, old plastic containers....But nothing seemed to provide a broad and even sound spectrum without distortions.If you vibrate a surface then only at certain, resonant frequencies destinct patterns will form if some dust or similar is place on the surface.In all other cases there is only chaos.Preventing the harmonics to form prevents harmonic vibrations to build up to distortion levels.Like it or not but waste seems to work just fine as a speaker ;)I made a plug to fit reall tight into a 2 liter juice bottle neck.The original plastic cap is just too soft.A vibro speaker glued onto the plug and the bottom of the bottle cut out and the soun was quite impressive.Proper use is however limited as the speaker would need to be mounted upright.Next thought was to utilise the bottom of the bottle too.By cutting a round hole in the side of the bottle I got an even more directional speaker with a better response to low frequencies.Placement of said hole of course affect how certain frequencies travel and where nodes can form.The size might also matter as the hoe itself, or better the material around it can get resonant at certain frequencies.You can cheat at bit though by using sticky tape, duct tape and so on as dampening meterial in badly affected areas.Especially with a wall mount for the speaker and the bottle hanging down behind the TV the effect is good compared to a standard shredderbox. The above design is certainly not for everyone although I think it has a wow factor to it if you show a decent sound coming out of a juice bottle ;)My next step was trying to find out how more fancy designs could work.So just stop reading here unless you like the idea of creating speakers that should not even work.Back in the old days we had more than just the speakers with magnets and cones.Anything that can vibrate can produce sound.It all depends on how much of it we can actually hear.My first exotic idea to really misuse a vibro speaker is a vibrating harp.Does not need to be in the classic shape though.A string in a resonance box, like a harp, guitar, violine and so on will start to vibrate at the set note.This is true even if the force for the vibration is external.You might remember the old school experiment with the two pitch forks on their boxes?Hit one and the other starts to swing too.If you make a resonance box for a vibro speaker with internal or external wire strings at different tensions or lengths you can amplify the sound for the notes that correspond to the strings.Make a relatively large box with some sturdy wires for the frequencies between 60 and 100Hz and you have a really powerful subwoofer from just 20W of input power...I think you get the idea on how to use amplifying strings now ;)My second and total misuse is the xmas tree.If you are a sparky by old trades then you might remember the mechanical frequency meters for generators or other things that required a stable supply.Well, if not than you should know the little wind up toys that play a melody with a drum and tiny forks.Imagine you would replace the glue plate with a rod.Depending on material and length harmonic nodes will form at various places and frequencies.Between those nodes the swing is maximised while the node itself appear to be stationary and without and vibrations at all.For example a steel rod of 1.2m would have a single standing wave at about 1kHz while a copper rod of the same lenght will be much lower in the frequency for a single standing wave.The xmas tree assumes that the rod is of such material that no single standing wave can form below 200Hz and that it won't swing too much at other resonant frequencies.Since aluminium is easy to work with and available in flat and thin bars already it would be my first choice for the branches of the tree.The required length is calculate based on the speed of sound in aluminium - you find online calculators for that.You want the lenght so that you end up with an even fraction of the wavelength you want to "play" with that strip.This allows for the rod to be placed right in the center of the strip where the standing wave movement is zero in the node.Make a lot of thin strips to get a broad frequency response.Placement on the rod can now be crucial.The best option I found so far is using a threaded rod and tapping the holes in the strips.The strips swing quite violently if long and at certain frequencies.And those not in resonance will still transfer their momentum to other strips.This can cause unwanted harmonics.Most evident when a single strips swigns violently at a certain frequencies.Adjusting the angle by turning it is often enough to get out of the overlapping harmonics.With enough strips it then really looks like a tree with flat branches.The sound might not be as loud and impressive as a plastic bottle as the virations are going up and down.But if placed in the right spot it not just looks nice but also makes people wonder where the sound is coming from.Last but not least my yet to be tested hidden speaker system - due to renting restrictions :(If you own a house of the standard frame design then you have plasterboard walls and ceilings.With a large enough surface of the right material, one or two vibro speakers can cover a really wide frequency range at good volume levels.So far I could only do tests in an old wooden window frame but the priciple works the same way between the wooden frames of a wall or ceiling.In my experiments a standard plasterboard sheet needs to be 100 x 100cm to get a more or less decent response for the lower frequencies.Before you rip your walls down use a stud finder and place your vibro speaker on the plasterboard between two studs or beams.I found that two speakers for the lower frequencies and three or four for the higher ones make a good sound.That is per channel and if you have the right size plasterboard sheet in the right place.No point if your left side is further away from the TV than your right.Ideally you replace the entire sheet with the speaker in the right spot on the new sheet but on the back.For obvious reasons this is far from being a perfect solution.But if you plan a full renovation anyway...A way out for older houses is the wooden floorboards.They make excellent resonators for low frequencies.The directional speakers could then still be hidden in picture frames of the right thickness and design.Anyways, I hope I gave you some ideas here ;)

Topic by Downunder35m  

The more natural way of cleaning things...

At my workplace we basically have a specific cleaner or cleaning product for every task you can think of. From glass over stainless to plastics and desinfectants for lots of different surfaces. After a quick look into my cleaining cabinet at home I started to wonder if I am doing something wrong as I only have a few cleaning things for my use. Asking my friends also showed they have a big bunch of cleaning chemicals, plus the bottle of bleach that everyone down here has. So I though: Your grandma only had a few cleaning products and you learned most of things you need to clean from her. Considering I grew up healthy I guess she must have done something right.... Let's clean up with the cleaning myths, shall we? 1. What cleaning chemicals do you have? For quite a few people the list would start something like this: Dishwashing liquid, window, cleaner, bathroom cleaner, soap scum remover, floor cleaner, oven cleaner, several desinfectants.... If that is true for you too than we might be on to something already. 2. What cleaning chemicals do I really need? This is a good question as everyone is a bit different but I assume a healthy household here. Of course we need certain things to clean our various surfaces properly but it is far less than waht you have been told by the TV commercials.... These days we like to think if there is a special cleaner for something then of course we have to use it to clean properly. Unless you have trades people walking through with their wet dogs several times a day and see dust storms at least twice a week you really only need a few things. So let's get to the basics: 3. Old style cleaning and what you need for it - really the only stuff required to keep all clean and sanitised. a) Methylated spirit b) Clear ammonia - cloudy ammonia works too but be aware that the added soap can be a problem that leaves streakes c) Hydrogen peroxide - pool grade to be cheap in the long run d) Orange oil - citrus oil works great too if you prefer a different smell e) Soap - just basic soap, these stinky, slightly yellow and hard bricks - no fancy smelly soap ;) f) Several cleaning brushes but you should already have those g) Windows cleaning tools - the basic microfibre cloth and squeegee will do h) Several microfibre cloths - bigger ones for floors and walls, smaller for windows and the rest I) Yesterdays newspaper j) Baking soda With those few things we have everything to clean whatever comes up and if bought in bulk comes down to a few cents per bottle compared to a few dollars when you buy all the stuff you don't need. Lets figure out what the stuff does and how to use it: 4. Mixing and what to use it for.... The alcohol is a really good remover for everything greasy and also desinfects the surfaces. A quick spray and wipe on your bench is all that you need to remove oily residue or the mess from the kids. Mixed with a bit of soap and water (about 50-50) also removes sticky stuff like jam or syrup. If we use about 50ml of alcohol, 50ml of clear ammonia and 900ml of water we get one liter of really good window cleaner. The modern way is to use microfibre for the cleaning and a squeegee to get it dry, the old way just uses a cloth and then the window is "polished" with some old newspaper. The black ink reacts with the alcohol and form a mild abrasive while the paper soaks up the moisture, the result is a prefectly clean window in under 3 minutes. Orange oil is not only a powerful degreaser but also lifts old dirt or even glue residue. Used directly it will get rid of the remains from sticky tape, stickers and everything that other cleaners fails to get off - smoth surface and non soaking of course. 50ml of it with 50ml of ammonia and 100ml of alcohol per bucket makes a good florr cleaner and your house smells nice when done. Works best if you can use a microfibre cloth or floor wiper to dry the surface with it. In the kitchen we can find a lot of surfaces that are greasy and we already covered that bit, so lets get to the though stuff. The kitchen sink can become dull looking although it is not scratched. This is due to hard water, food residue, soap and other things. Best is of course to wipe it and dry it after use but who really does this every day? A pot scrubbing pad with some baking soda on it does the trick here. Make the pad nly moist and sprinkle the baking soda on it. Rub over the stainless and if too dry add a few drops of water. Once done rinse off and enjoy the difference. For hard to clean or badly turtured sinks you can try a ball of aluminium foil and coke - use it like a polish. The oven is often our worst nightmare. The cooktop is not far behind. But even here we can have a chance to clean without too much hard work or bad chemicals. Of course the best way is to prevent these spills and boil overs ;) For the cooktop some hot water and baking soda will soften the baked on stuff. Simply remove what you can with the hot water and then sprinkle the surface with baking soda. Cover all with the paper towels and if not wet enough add a bit more hot water so all shets are soaked. Leave ove night and wipe clean the next day. The oven is a bit of a problem once the side and back wall are filthy. If baking soda with a pot scrubber won't do the trick get some of these steel pads with soap in it. The soap in them is special in terms that you only need a little bit of water to remove almost anything with them - and they won't scrath enamelled surfaces. On the bottom we often have badly burnt in things that are next to impossible to fully remove. I suggest to cover the same way as the cooktop but also to add some orange oil. Just make a thick paste of baking soda and orange oil and wrok it into the soiled surface. Cover with wet paper towels and leave over night. Now you don't want to flood your oven, so that means you need to use a sponge or thick cloth that is big enough to wipe off the surfaces you soaked the day before. As the orange oil really is oil it pays off to use some alcohol in the cleaning water to get rid of the oil and grease a bit easier. Don't expect to see a clean and shiny surface after one treatment if the oven was badly misused, you might have to repeat the procedure a few times. If in doubt use the soapy steel pads for last clean and before soaking over night again. Three to four treatments are usually enough to clean even the worst disaster that can happen in an oven unless you baked it in for months... 5. Desinfecting and mouldy spots.... As said, the methylated spirit is basically just pure alcohol and kill almost anything that might harm you. But sometimes that just is not enough. And who really wants to spend an hour or longer to clean some mouldy spots in the shower or try to cover the smell by spraying room freshener? As a lst resort for everything I use Hydrogen Peroxide. The supermarket grade is only 3% and usually badly overpriced, so I suggest to get a small canister of pool grade peroxide. Do yourself a favour and ask them to install a tap on it - you don't want to do it yourself unless you already know how bad pool grade peroxide is! For your own safety when handling it I strongly recommend wearing long rubber gloves, nitrile is better but please no latex as it could start to burn when getting in contact with the peroxide. For high grade desinfecting or the removal of mouldy areas I recommend to dilute 1:5, one part of peroxide to 5 parts of water. Only for the mould removal on tiled, plastic, glass or metal surfaces you can use the peroxide pure from the container - but please add face protection when cleaning! Some spray bottles work with peroxide some just start leaking badly, if you want try an old bottle of chlorine based cleaner after really flushing everything out. The peroxide breaks down any organic material it comes into contact with, so not just the mould you want to remove but also your skin or eyes if you allow contact. On the skin you see white areas after contact and they won't go away until all the oxygen in the skin is gone that was left by the peroxide. If you act too late it means you might loose some skin flakes. The sure sign of overlook exposure on your skin is a burning sensation in the area - this only happens when the amount was big enough or your clothes got soaked. On your surfaces to clean you will notice bubbles forming quite quickly - this mean the peroxide is reacting with something, usually organic material. Let it bubble... Once it stops bubbling the surface is either sterile or the peroxide is used up, if it bubbles when adding fresh peroxide onto it then there is still crap left ;) It really helps to brush off the surface after each treatment as a lot of loose material will be flushed out when rinsing off. Once it looks and smells clean again it usually means it is clean :) 6. Special case: Wood... Be it wooden floorboards, furniture or just your chopping board - always try what the manufacturer recommends first! Untreated wood should never be cleaned with anything wet! Sealed wood, like floorboards or things with varnish on it to make it water proof can be cleaned the same way as mentioned above - but I would leave out the ammonia as some wood treatments simply won't tolerate it and might go dull instead of returning nice and shiny - spot testing required if you think you have to use ammonia as well! Orange oil itself makes a great furniture cleaner if the surface is smooth and sealed, but if it is not it means the oil soaks into the wood together with the stuff you want to clean off! It also takes off several paints and types of varnish if you work it hard enough and give it some time, so avoid this and be quick instead of forgetting to finnish the job ;) Always try to wet the surface as little as possible and wipe fully dry as soon as possible! Ok, good start but what is the real benefit? For me the actual benefit is that I know what I am using and exposing myself to. Just reading what is in most cleaning products we find at the supermarket makes me want to clean again after using them, just to remove their residues... I admit it might take some time to get used to mixing and just having a few ingredients for the cleaning but it does work great. Especially if you or your kids are already sensitive to certain chemicals or just of poor health in general you might see the benefit quite quickly. Some people really don't like the smell of ammonia but unless you are sensitive to it there is nothing to worry when using the household grade as we always dilute it down massively anyway. A good way to avoid the worst stink is by mixing it outside with the wind from behind. I won't say that certain commercial products are bad, harmful or not good enough for the job. Some are actually worth to have in some cases but I just say it is better to only have a hand full of chemicals that are not too bad instead of an endless list of things were we don't even know what's inside. For me the best is your surprise when it actually works better than you expected and report your findings here.

Topic by Downunder35m  

FEETECH 17DOF DIY humanoid robot

Https:// Feetech 17 DOF humanoid robot ready to play for education DIY FEETECH New Humanoid Robot Profile The FT-17DOF-SC-RTP is a ready to play humanoid robot which comes fully assembled & completed from our team at FEETECH. This humanoid robot uses 17PCS FT-SCServo (SCS15). SCS15 is all metal gear and uses TTL level Half Duplex Asynchronous UART BUS Communication Protocol. It gives the feedback of the data relevant to position, voltage temperature, load and speed. This humanoid robot uses all aluminum alloy parts, anodized color (red, blue, white for optional) or an assortment.It is simple wiring and makes assembly and disassembly fast and convenient. It is easy to use "MOTION" editing software for Windows system. As long as you use a computer you will love playing with this humanoid robot, even if you do not have any programming knowledge, you can edit the humanoid robot actions within ‘MOTION’ editing software. Robot hobbyist can move the robot in a variety of different poses by hand, then read in and save data from robot joint SCServo via software, moving through the posture sequences from one by one will complete the program of series motion or dance. The data of dance or motion group can be saved into your local computer for use the next time, or download into the robot control board for offline operation. The 2.4G remote control system is based on Arduino open source, users can freely modify according to our Arduino source and combination with the Robot Control Board (SCM-1) to create more advanced functions. You will feel strong & excited when to play this robot dance and movement patterns. The Robot Control Board (SCM-1) can also accept UART instructions, allowing the user to send control instructions according to the packet data’s protocol complementing the robot scope of uses and research. Humanoid Robot Specifications Height:380mm; Weight: 1.7kg(Including battery); DOF:17 Degrees Of Freedom in total Head 1 PCS Hands 6 PCS Feet 10 PCS Connect with computer:USB-mini 2300mAH NI-MH rechargeable battery and AC charger Arduino open source 2.4 G remote control system Key feature -17DOF,UART BUS servo, simple wiring, easy to assemble and disassemble -It is easy to use "MOTION" editing software for Windows system, Programmed robot’s motion by hand. -Save the robot motion data on local and is easy to be use by other robots. -Motion automatic interpolations function; Make the movement more continuous and smooth, make sure the movement of posture to posture more perfect within specified speed time. -Can name the motion group by yourself if you need great for understanding and memory. It can repeat like function calls every motion group. Each motion can be imported and exported alone. -After a series of motion group orderly arrangement can coherent form a dance. Both played online and off-line available. -Each motion group can be remote controlled by Arduino open source 2.4G remote control system (especially good for use as a fighting robot) -With 39kb FLASH motion data storage unit, can be divided into 254 motion group. If storing one motion group, It can contain up to store 730 posture. -The “MOTION” software can show motion data. The robot will to move online when double-click any data of software. This is very easy to debug robot’s motion. -Can be controlled by Arduino UART with instructions. -NI-MH battery can recharge any time no needing worry about d damage. Battery can run about 30 minutes. -Accurate design of each part. Using a screwdriver can complete the assembly Packing list One assembly completed set of FT-17DOF-SC-RTP humanoid robot including: -All metal gear SCServo * 17pcs -Aluminum alloy machinery frame * 1set -Master control board (SCM-1) * 1pcs -Arduino open source 2.4 G remote control system * 1set -7.2V 3,000mAh NI-MH battery  * 1set -8.4 V AC charger * 1pcs -USB-mini cable 150cm -Programming software “Motion”  * 1set (download from Website) Related documents -Instruction manual -Robot debugging manual -Software debugging instruction -Remote controller instruction

Topic by Robotfans  

Mozzies and how to keep them outside....

Down here the winter was too short and not cold enough, meaning insect life is literally exploding in numbers already. The house I moved in has badly installed flyscreens on the doors and windows, most likely due to the fact that the house is moving up and down in several points... Anyway, due to the gaps everywhere I found myself with the problem that the mozzies covered my entire front and back door areas. With an unsupporting landlord not even allowing me to replace the bad flysreens with proper ones at my cost I was left with less invasive options to tackle the problem. Before you ask: No I am not even allowed to fix holes in the flyscreens covering the windows :( My next step was to check the local garden center for some natural solutions. Lemon grass seems to do the trick for the inside, the smell also keeps flies away really good. But I had to put the pots in the garden as the ongoing smell gives me headaches. It also did very little to prevent the mozzies from coming inside when I opened any outside door for a few moments. Only way out was to get rid of the mozzie population having daily meeting around my doors. At the local hardware store I found several "surface sprays" and they all stated to be very effective against cockroaches, spiders and other crawling insects - too bad I don't have a problem with them LOL After asking I was informed that those sprays do little to nothing for flying insects, including mozzies and that I would waste my money. During my next shopping trip I got desperate and grabbed a can of surface spray from Aldi. Was under 3 bucks, so I had nothing to loose compared to the 40-80 bucks for a canister of "the good stuff" from the hardware store. At the checkout an old lady asked if I moved into a new house with cockroaches when she saw the spray and I said that I only have a problem with mozzies. She recommended to eat more bananas ROFL Back home it was already too sunny at the front door for the mozzies to show up so I waited till the late afternoon and sure enough I found the area covered with them again. The spray annoyed them badly but I kept spraying all cracks, surfaces and also the gaps at the roof line. Kept checking for a while but could not see any real effect on the mozzies other than swarming around me and trying to suck my blood. Next morning I found the floor at the door covered by a carpet of dead mozzies! I don't mean a few, I am talking enough to take the brrom to clear them up :) Now for the past 5 days the body count is going down quite fast while my door stays free of mozzies. Still have them flying around in "normal" numbers but I can get in and out without a swarm of them following me. Since the product is plant based and considered to be without any side effects on humans or pets I will see how long it lasts and then just spray again - this three dollar can should last throughout the summer... You might wonder why I go through all these troubles... Long story short, I am quite allergic to the bites. Happened as a kid when during a warm summer night at a friends place I got so many bites that the doc gave up counting. He reached over 200 just by counting my head and face to the shoulders... Now I am allergic to the bites, the itch lasts over a week and thebite area swells up to the size of a 50 cent coin with blisters forming after 2 days. You might not get it hat bad but if you do suffer from the bites I found two remedies that help with the itch and reaction: a)  BBQ igniter (the manual push type without batteries)! They work like the expensive clickers you get at the pharmacy but last much longer - plus they require more force. The rounded tip is placed directly onto the bite and when you push the button in to "get shocked" two things happen. First the pressure forces the soliver that causes the reaction into deeper skin layers where there are less receptors for the itch. Secondly the high voltage breaks down certain parts of the soliver making it far less effective to cause harm. Downside is that you might like the shock in certain areas and that you should shock at least 10 to 15 times to get a real benefit from it. b)  Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) You put a drop of H2O2 directly onto the bite or for difficult areas use a soaked cotton bud. Rubbing it in with a cotton bud for a minute or two works best IMHO. You might see your skin turn white or feel a slight burn right where the bite is - that is normal and harmless. The hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen into the skin - this turns the skin white for short period of time. But the oxygen also breaks down the soliver and the byproducts of the body reaction to it. Works great for horse fly bites too. Downside here is that you should not overdo things and that you should test first how sensitive you are to the reaction. A good test is to apply it onto a small cut or scratch to clean it. If you tolerate that then won't even feel it on a mozzie bite. I hope some of this will help you through the summer ;)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply

Observing single photons (may be future Instructable)

In a thread on building a DIY Geiger counter, I mentioned that it's possible to do an experiment to see single photons directly with your eyes. This is a lab we did when I was an undergraduate, more than 20 years ago. I haven't done the setup myself since then, so I'm just going to describe it; if I have the opportunity run it again, then I'll make an I'ble.If someone else decides to tackle it, please feel free to write it up yourself!The human eye detects light via a family of proteins called opsins. Different forms of photopsins are sensitive to different wavebands, which is what gives us color vision. Rhodopsin is sensitive mainly to greenish-blue light, and provides us with monochromatic night vision. Rhodopsin works by changing its conformation when it absorbs a photon; that change of conformation allows ions to flow through the rod cell's membrane and generate a signal. The signal from each rod cell is processed through the retina and passed to the visual cortex, where a representation of the visual field is constructed.Human rhodopsin has a quantum efficiency of about 25% (there's a 25% chance a single photon will be absorbed and produce the rod-cell signal). By comparison, cat rhodopsin is more than 90% quantum efficient. 25% QE is sufficiently high to be observable -- a source of single photons can be seen by a dark-adpated person with normal vision.You'll need a steady source of well-collimated photons. A green laser pointer (~532 nm) will do nicely. But how many photons does it generate? A wavelength of 532 nm corresponds to 3.53×10-19 joules. So a small 1mW laser pointer puts out 2.8×1015 photons per second (watt = joule/s). How do you reduce that to one photon at a time? With filters. An ND3 neutral density filter reduces the output light by 10-3 compared to the input, so a stack of just five ND3's in front of this laster pointer would result in (on average) just 2.8 photons per second! A stack of four ND4's would give you 0.28 photons/s on average.If you don't have neutral density filters, you can make a decent approximation, by stacking sheets of black trash-bag plastic. To make this work you have to measure the attenuation yourself, so you'll need a photodetector, something which gives an output (voltage, resistance, current, whatever) proportional to the intensity of light.Once you have your single-photon source, you need to set it up in a completely dark room. If you have access to an old-style photographic darkroom, use it. Otherwise, use thick (3-5 mm) black felt and gaffer's tape to seal any windows and doorframes. Put the laser on a table or stand pointed at your face, with the stack of NDs (or trash bags) in front of it. If you're doing this by yourself, you may want to have a piece of tape set up to hold the pointer's button down. Otherwise, your lab partner will take care of it.Sit in the dark for 20 to 30 minutes. This will seem like forever, so you may want something to help you keep track of the time. A standard CD will be about half finished, or you can get through ten pop sons on your iPod, when your eyes become dark adapted.Turn on the laser. You'll see intermittent flashes all coming from nearly the same place in your visual field; if you turn your head, the location will move in the opposite direction. If you've used filters to get down to a few flashes per second, POV will make them easier to see. At less than one photon per second, you'll see them individually.

Topic by kelseymh    |  last reply

The Repulsine - and how it links to "flying saucers"

I already had some repulsine project here.Like this one, or the actual project.It is time for a big update now.After studying a lot of reports, photos and videos, some dating back hundrets of years in the origin, I realised a few things:1. The repulsine is "just" another realisation of some really, really old designs.2. Air is not only the medium that can used.3. The technology has been developed further by the US.I was always quite facinated by UFO reports, especially the kind that happened in several areas of the world with almost identical idendifications for the craft in question.Mind you that UFO does not stand for Alien but for Unidentified Flying Object.Meaning that at the time of the report(s) there was no official knowledge of such a craft existing.So far quite a while things like the B52 or SR71 were actually classified as UFO's in reports from sources with no links to those building and using them.In terms of our Replusine project however one thing really stands out in the reports throughout history: The basic shape and appearance as a "flying saucer".You can look up tons of old and some newer sightings/reports of flying saucers.And if bother to sort them by location and date you can actually develop sort of a timeline for design changes.Same for linking the times of reported sightings to activities of Schauberger, Nazies and allied forces from about 2920 to 1980.So, if these sightings of almost identical objects actually follow desgin changes based on new technology then how could this be linked to our reality where appearently there is no such thing as a flying saucer?Take the "artificial domes" we find mostly on the upper section of the hull.Strategically located to act like windows enabling you to see what is around the otherwise fully enclosed craft.There size seems to shrink as time moved on.Checking the few good picture of them out there you can help but wonder....For the same timeframe the domes of common security cameras, like used for casionos in Reno or Las Vegas appear to be identical...And it makes sense to use cameras instead of windows, due to the intense electromagnetic- electrostatic- and high energy fields surrounding the craft and parts of the inside as well.Then there is the thing with the glowing around the craft, especially right before and during impossibly fast directional changes or accellerations.Already Schauberger claimed that hgh energy fields and streams are created with his Repulsine.And those were claimed to cause the propulsion of the craft.Another vital clue to link the Repulsine to projects like the VR7 or the ARV is that they all use unthinkable amounts of electric energy in one form or another.The Repulsine used a labyrinth of tubes, pipes and disks with nozzles and all to seperate air at an atomic level.At least these were Schaubergers claims.A bit more realistic now seems to be that Schauberger utilised the electrostatic enegy created by the airflow in a totally different way.Remember that those copper wave disks spin at insanely high RPM's?And there is a conductive axle...Makes a homopolar motor that delivers insanely high currents but very little voltage.Also makes a very strong electromagnetic field.As a result, the air travelling through it all gets charged up.Schauberger claims this charge helped to seperate the air molecules.These days we know that for this even higher amounts of energy are required - think in terms of fusion reactions.What I think really happend is that there was a plasma discharge from the copper disks to the surrounding outlet nozzles.A high voltage with little current forming a plasme which "pulses" from nozzle to nozzle.Quite a reminder of the good old Telsa coil configuration.Those pulses create an electromagnetic impulse in the wave disks, certainly aimed to intensify their electromagnetical charge.Moving to the VR7.While the Repulsine got quite famous for destroying a hanger during a demonstration it now seems to be quite obvious that the steering capabilities were next to non existing.After all, it was originally invented to work as a very efficient heating or cooling device and to fly around.The flying bit was more or less an unwanted side effect due to getting in full harmonic resonance at was to high RPM's.The propulsion was not done by the air stream but by the surrounding electromagnitc field.And sadly the design did not allow for much influencing of this field.With the VR7 project came a new approach to the "fuel" used to generate the propulsion effect.Something that is independent from outside air pressures and such things.If we see the original copper wave disks really as a homopolar motor and the air as the medium to generate electricity : How nice would it be to use a conductor right away to eliminated the chargin of air molecules to generate static electricity?The obvious choice was to use Mercury.Some reports state it was pure some state other metals were blended in.The "original" shape chnged slightly depending on the actual purpose of the test flights.So, sometimes you won't have any top dome, but a tower or colum like constructions coming out of the top.The rest literally looks like a dinner plate with high rim, turned upside down - with a lid.The later developed ARV or ARM, Alien Replication Vehicle, was claimed to be based on actual alien craft that were recovered and studied.Appearently it formed the link between pure energy control and actual steering capabilities that made sense.Then how does all this link with new technologies?Paint, fibre optics, laser...When it comes to stealth technology very secret "paint" mixtures are used to scatter or absorb radar waves, in some cases both.The development of these paints goes along with the SR71 project, the B52, attack boats and so on.But in reality it does not make much sense anymore to have your military crafts seemingly invisible to radar waves.Doppler radar was developed to make these crafts visible again, plus it now helps us with the weather forecast.It is more the surface shape and construction that makes them hard to track on radar.But if have a population that now has digital cameras to record videos and everyone loves to do it then of course you risk being seen.Now we even have smartphones that start recoding instantly if we need it.Discreditation was the real aim in making all sorts of things invisible to radar.A positive side effect was that those special materials and paints not only deal with radar waves.They act in almost identical fashion through a suprisingly wide band of frequencies.So why the need to hide from frequencies not used for any tracking things?Energy shielding....The VR7 and ARV were already quite good, but the need to use quite thick shielding plates everywhere, plus a fully closed "bubble" inside for the crew meant a lot of weight.Weight does not really matter much here though, but more on that later...What matters is transportability.The small, 4 crew versions already maxed out what the biggest trucks of the time could handle on the roads.Using paint and thin shielding plates of high tech materials meant the weight went down.Down enough to allow for a bigger size...Laser and fibre optics enabled us data transfers at never seen before speeds.And what was once reserved for the big backbone infrastructure made its way into server rooms and now even homes.Whether or not the development or "invention" of these technologies happened out of the blue or in some guide form is something I leave to your imagination.However it enabled in combination the exact control of all flight parameters.A lever like for the trust on your boat controlled the overal power levels available.Where the repulsine only had rotating disks the later developed types used capacitor plates at the bottom of the saucer section.With the disk from the homoplar motor in the mercury drive system they formed two electromagnetic fields.One just from the spinning disk, the other from the circuit formed between capacitor plates, hull and axle of the homopolar motor.The thrust level determined how fast the motor spins and how much the capacitors are charged.A simple mechanical linkage requiring not even wires, let alone a computer.Always in sync, always in harmony.The laser and fibre optics were mounted in sort of a trackball.The pilot moves a sphere that is hold in place by a slightly larger half sphere.Bit like the swivel mount on your tiny camera tripod.The laser is mounted to the moving sphere but really far down, in the center and pointing dead straight up.In the outer sphere's lower part you have the ends of fibre optic wires.Conviently located in a mirrored orientation to the capacitor banks.Imagine them like grid point on a globe you might have on your desk.The further you tild the "ball" the more the laser moves to the outer reception points for the optical link.And with that providing higher power levels to the corresponding capacitor banks, while reducing them for the opposite ones.If you ever had these cheap laser projectors that make some star light copy or lots of funny shapes thn you know how the laser is made to produce rings that match the orientation of the fibre optics.Again, dead simple, reliable and dirt cheap to realise.So why did all these UFO sightings of this type seemed to have vanished all of a sudden?They did not stop to do a lot of test flights....But as the technology moved on to allow for very fine control of the craft it was time to test the limits.We all know the stories of totally impossible flight manouvers....And the offcial claim to make all these sighting a hoax was and still is that no human would be able to survive those forces.After all, you can't just go from a standstill to well over 2000km/h in less than a second without leaving the pilot as a gooey mess on the walls....But the thing does not use any rockets, conventional propulsion systems or even something that emits enough heat to classify as a combustion engine....The limit testing goes along with the realisation of how this drive system actually works.There were all sorts of theories from those making these things possible but they had only assumptions and a good imagination.There is no such things a free energy, so that means these flying saucers would need machines more capable than those of a container ship - and a corresponding size...A good aeronautics engineer can spend hours explaining to you why it is impossible that a bumblebee can fly.Thankfully the bumblebee is only interested in collecting honey and pollen but not in anything as complex as aeronautics, and so it just flies off....How is it then possible to generate the energy for these impossible flight characteristica?Energy is relative, Einstein already knew that but we did not get the hint.E=mC² is about as accurate as a wooden yard stick.But that is another topic, the relation to Einsteins relativity and our flying saucers was his old friend Nicola Tesla.Tesla stated that the universe is full of energy that surrounds us and that we only need to tap in to.Like a bird does not electrocuted when sitting on power lines, we are part of these energy fields and won't even notice them.Only a few we can actuall feel, see or otherwise experience, like gravity.Does not mean we know how exactly gravity works and why it does what it does.We only used overservations to come with clues.However we failed to explain how the energy of let's say gravity actually make the ball roll down the ramp instead of up...Tesla's warning to Einstein was that his formula is wrong and that testing the atomic bomb would cause unimaginable side effects.And sure enough when Einstein checked the results from the test he was stunned by how much energy was released - about 4 times higher than by ignoring all losses that were factored in for the experiment.So where did this energy come from and why is it so dangerous to play with it?Science fiction is always somwhat of a reflection of a reality we already have or that is certain to be true very soon.Like submarines, helicopters, laser weapons or going to the moon.A thing you might have heard of is Zero Point Energy.A fuzzy terms with several possible explanations of what it actually is.Funny enough our scientist use the same term for ergies on a quantum level.Those energies, like gravity that we still fail to understand properly.But they also include the energy from the shockwave of an exploding star, which travel much faster than the speed of light.Where Tesla tried to utilise this energy for controlled and good purposes, we developed weapons of mass destruction as it was a quick and easy way to prove a point.The point that the test shall lead to clean and reliable energy in the future however was never made.Partially due to realising what those added energies were that no one expected.Imagine you create a vacuum in front of a ball and a corresponding higher pressure at it's back side.Obviously the ball would start to move and get very close to the speed of the airstream you created.Keeping the ball right in the center is the tricky part.If you place the ball onto a blanket that is stretched like a trampoline you can use your hands to create a positive "hill" in front of the ball and a negative or indentation at the back of the ball.And if you move both ands the same way your ball will stay in this wave and follow it.Our ARV does pretty much the same, but it creates this bubble and wave itself.The electromagnetic field generated are as high or higher as during the peak of th explosion of an atomic bomb.But unlike the destructive version our field is a controlled bubble.At high enough levels the fields distort the space time around the craft.With all capacitor banks equally charged the craft only moves up and down.Turning the sphere and changing the charge levels means the bubble expnads or contracts in the coreesponding direction.To the outside observer the impossible happens, to those inside it is like nothing at all happens, the only experience any movement from obversing what is around them - or now through instruments like GPS and such.Wich a distortion in space time the changes are only outside the craft, while the craft itself remain fully neutral at all times.Means things like acceleration forces or G forces simply won't apply as they never actually reach the craft.After these initial proof of concept designs showed their true and full potential the Fluxliner project came into place.Funny name but it is spot on in some way.The flux is the continium of space time, basically everything we now try to explore and understand through quantum mechanics and such things.Like that a light particle ona quantum level is split and can't be observed as a single entity, you can only interpret their existence through the obeservation of their combined entity.But ony day we will have the means to even measure and detect those things directly - now that we "know" them...The liner part is claimed to be either a reference to the stealth coating or the fact that it rides the space time like a boat on the water.This so far latest leaked re-creation of so called alien tech is claimed by some to have been a quite regular visitor on the moon in the early 90's and late 60's.What does all this now mean for free energy and the Repulsine project?I asked myself the same thing once I started to link inventions related to the term "free energy" as we use it today to technologies already claimed to have been in use by the US or Germans/Austrians before.Even if we are told free energy does not exist, the earliest incarnations of the Repulsine were already aimed on what we these days call "over-unity".Other inventors used magnets and coils to seemingly create electricity out of thin air.And still others made claims to be able to run their cars on water.Some of them were clearly a good hoax, some however had a disturbing thing in common.Inventors that thought they had some free energy or over unity device and started to go public with it ended up being watched.To be a warning to all, since a lot of them knew the work of others in the same field, a lot of the real inventors disappeared.Not all though, a lot of them just suddenly lost all interest in inventing and got rid of their inventions only to live a boring life.Energy is power and who controls it has power over others.While oil got rare and expensive our governments "regulated" the price through additional and higher taxes.We are told it is to make us more aware of our climate and pollution or to improve our roads.In reality though our governments use fuel like a golden goose.Electricity is no different.First we have limited supply and with that limited options to develop areas of the world.Like water, electricity defines where modern life as we know it is actually possible.What would happen if all this power would suddenly disappear just becuase some weird guy created a zero point generator in his garage and decided to give all details of his invention away for free and to everyone in the world?You can't make money from, or put taxes on what people build themself and just use like you would use a push on lawn mover.The trail of disappearing inventions, inventors and their work is quite disturbing once you start looking deeper into the details of their inventions.The repulsine is a pain in the behind to model in 3D.Even worse if you actually intent to make it 3D printable while keeping the model as realistic as possible.Same for even thinking on how to replicate a mercury drive with a homopolar motor and up to 36 capacitor banks.I have some ideas beased on the concept drawings though.The mercury acts as a conductor as well as an energy storage device.Quite similar to a HVAC system like your airconditioner.Energy is taken from one side and used on the other side.IMHO this is only possible through a vapour stage where the mercury most likely will form a plasma at some point.As it is a resonant system similar to a tesla coil the plasma acts as an interupter or sprak gapto get the required frequencies for the field generation.But unlike the Tesla coil, the energy created by this plasma is not wasted.In a vortex system similar to what is found in the top cone of the Repulsine, the plasma is kept rotating without ever getting into contact with the surrounding walls of the containing construction.IMHO the compression produced by this vortex and the high speed of the plasma means it is transformed back into liquid or even solid mercury particles while the stored energy and heat is release like in the atomic bomb - in the form of an electromagnetic pulse.And as said, all these are in resonance here, which means we hvae harmonic frequencies where the power output peaks at unknown high levels.The technology was already possible in a crude form almost 100 years ago, so how hard can it be to combine it all into a prototype that actually works?Thing is you can't really develop and test individual components, let alone on a desktop model scale.Would be like trying to test and measure some LC circuit for resonance without connecting them or knowing and values.You need a certain size to make things happen and can't just downsize them.A bit like replicating a model of a big dam.No matter what you try, you need trickery to make the water stream rushing out of the relief pipe look as realistic as the original.You can't build a paper plane at an infinite small scale and still hope it would actually fly like the big one....What might be possible though to get going is to observe how resonant electromagnetic fields act in resonance with high energy pulses at a lower or higher hamonic frequency.On a really small scale even just by using some vibration speakers to observer how for example some grains of rice react on a plate when a third harmonic of much lower frequency is introduced.Especially in a stereo system where the distance of the speakers equals the wavelenght (multiple) of the first harmonic.Why do I make this comparison?If you wonder then you never really played with vibration speakers ;)Let me try to explain:An amplifier set to a max output of 15W and with a connected signal generator producing two harmonic frequencies is one part.The other a 25W rated vibration speaker.It is quite easy to fully wreck the speaker at these levels if you use the right frequencies, been there, replaced a few over the years...Now just try to imagine how high the energy levels could be in system that utilises what would otherwise be wasted energy.And not just that, it would happen at different harmonic frequencies for every involved stage of the drive system.the base frequency or first and highest harmonic frequency in this configuration would be high enough to affect things on a quantum level.All the other harmonics combine at fixed times during many full cycles of the original frequency.Let's say in lame man's terms:Four people are yor four harmonics below the highest.And this highest frequency is represented by someone on a swing.Two people on either side of the swing give it a good push at the time of zero momentum and in the opposite direction as before.But on either side the people take turns, sort of.One might push ever fourth time while other pushes every eights time - as an example.You see how sometimes they would push together at the same time? ;)And every time this happens the overall energy level of the base frequency becomes strong enough to create out wave in space time.I guess it will be another 5 to 10 year before we can use mind control to create our 3D models, from imagination onto a perfect 3D model...Ever wondered where the name "Flux-Capacitor" in Back to the Future originated from? ;)Or how in Star Trek the ships first only had Impulse Drive and later on Warp drive?An impulse drive is nothing more than a fancy ION or nuclear drive - as evident by the various forms of shielding and technologies used by other Trekkie species in the series.And well, a Warp drive does basically the exact same thing as our Fluxliner drive, it creates a bubble around the ship that excludes it from our normal space time to travel faster than light.Our Mercury drive system does the same thing, the electronmagnetic field is basically a bubble like the warp field and it distorts the space time continium by creating two waves between which our bubble craft moves.And please don't see these waves like they are on the ocean, they would be fully even, inverted copies in a three dimensional area, not just flat.An author or writer certainly won't come up with a lot of phantasy names and creations without getting the basic idea from somehwere- or someone.And even if that wouldn't be the case then a well reputated scientist won't use the same exact terms in later publications just because he is a Star Trek fan - just saying though...Like many other things it comes down to progressive education and the controlled seeding of misinformation while supporting hoaxes at the same time the real thing disappears with the inventor.If the leaked claims by former officials should really indicate alien tech behind all this then it leaves the question how ancient cultures could have already had detailed knowledge of the same principles.They were left with instructions on how to build these impossible crafts despite the fact they would need hundreds or even thausands of years to even develop the most basic technology to build it.Let alone to know about the electrical and plasma capabilities of mercury...A lot of people still have prime evil fear, like when they see a spider or left in the dark in some new place and without a warning.It is programmed into our genes as a protection mechanism dating back to when we had no clue about fire and lived in caves.The buried knowledge about impossible technologies is in our genes in a very similar way.A bit like an endless library and every now and then someone finds a register card with the location of some interesting book.Those cards are like reminders when we are confronted with new technolgies or just new ideas.If, deep down, we wouldn't know that a lot of what seems impossible is just out of our grasp of understanding on how to put ideas into reality - then why keep so many independent people around the globe "invent" "new" things around the same time and with no chance of ever knowing anthing about the other inventor(s) ?? ;)Like the Illuminaty always said: It is best to operate in the shadows while making sure knowledge is used and seeded wisely.....We gave our energy providers solar and wind parks, even huge battery storage systems.Not because it is the green thing to do though.We need more and more energy but we still need the power to stay in the hands of the powerful.Tons of people or communities have enough open land for their own little wind or solar park but they are not allowed to operate one and with that won't get subsidised like our big energy providers.Otherwise a lot of regions in our world would already be independent from price gauging electricity providers that keep their grid at standards from the late 50's....We can't really allow them to build more nuclear reactor either because we already struggle to deal with the millions of year it will take to neutralise our current stockpile of nuclear waste.Funny thing is that this is only a concern for certain countries in the world.Some still see going nuclear as the best alternative to move their country forward.When the last tree is fallen, the last fish eaten and the last river poisoned you will realise that you can't eat money.Till then it gives you all the power you need and loosing this grip is like loosing a war.There are always casualties and someone being on the wrong end of friendly fire...When the time is right, those who went silent and kept secrets will come forward and provide us with the energy for our future.I don't want to jinx it but I am quite sure it will start around the 13/04/2029 and intensify around the same date in 2036.The "coincidences" evolving around those two days will be big news for the world, nothing new for those of us willing to see more than we are allowed to see....And they will mark the official re-appearance of what started as the Repulsine, went over the VR7 and ARV to the official Fluxdrive.To qutoe from what we all know: To boldly go go where no human has gone before....

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply

Technology Makes Cheap Drinking Water from Air

INTRODUCTION:   How can we best apply basic technology to help the underprivileged and/or disaster-hit countries like Haiti? Daily hygiene and nourishment are among the top needs for disaster ridden regions!  Simply put, no water means no hygiene. The Romans understood that over two millennia ago and created their complexly beautiful aqueduct networks for handling both fresh and wastewater! Other ingenious water systems like “air wells” have been found in the city of Theodosia (cf: discovered in 1900 by Zibold, see Zibold’s Collectors/Dehumidifiers) dating back to Greco-Roman times during the Byzantine Empire. These were strictly passive systems that naturally dehumidified air, collecting its potable water in underground basins. All air, even in relatively dry desert regions, will precipitate or release its natural water content (initially in the form of vapor) through condensation when it hits its dew-point temperature and below. That means you “chill” it to an appropriate level that is anywhere from 5F to 50F below its current air temperature, depending upon how much water content (relative humidity) it has locally absorbed. The condensation of the water vapor releases its internal latent heat (reheating the cooled air) which must be constantly dissipated (absorbed by something) in order for water formation to steadily continue. So how do we dissipate this resultant vapor-heat and chill our air without any infrastructure or electricity, in an underprivileged or disaster-ridden region? We simply bury a long cast-iron or any metallic drain-pipe sufficiently underground where the temperature of the earth is naturally held to a constant at around 45F to 55F. That’s our “free” chiller gift from nature. One end of the pipe, Figure-1,  sticks out of the ground to suck-in local outside hot air, and the other end dumps cooled dry air and water into an underground cistern where it gets collected and is piped to the surface to both exhaust the cooled dry air and connect to a water pump. We need a hand operated water pump to lift up the water above ground, and we need an electric fan to constantly pump air through the ground-chilled piping system. We can even force the cooled piped air to exhaust into a tent-like structure where it provides air conditioning as an added bonus, but this adds the penalty of both power and the increased fan size necessary to drive our required airflow further into an enclosure! While this concept is not “passive” (requiring electricity to work) like those clever Byzantine air-wells, it will produce much more potable water and within a smaller volume than those elegantly passive historic devices. The electricity for our fan power requirements can be produced by any one of four ways using either “active” or “passive” techniques: 1) An active playground or bike-pedaling-person or oxen-driven mechanism-generator, 2) A passive windmill generator, 3) A passive solar energy collection system that directly generates electricity, or 4) A passive thermo-electric system that directly generates electricity using the Peltier effect, operating solely on temperature differences between the cell’s top and bottom surface (we jury-rig the cool pipe and hot ambient air to contact separate sides of the cell). Depending upon how much water is needed, the required air volume plus pipe length and diameter, together with the fan will be sized accordingly. We can also configure groups of parallel fan-driven air pipes that are radially fed into the cistern. The sizing of this underground network depends upon the ambient air’s local average temperature and relative humidity (how much water gets absorbed into the air) plus buried pipe depth and effective underground temperatures achieved. The basic concept is one where we “wring” water from air at some given humidity content. The higher its relative humidity the more water is recovered from the air. The air-wringing process simply chills the air as it scrubs along the cooled internal pipe surface until it starts to rain inside the pipe from condensation onto its surface. The condensation is like the dew that forms on car windows, grass or any cooled surface in the early morning, before the sun comes out and evaporates the dew back into the heating air. A further bonus is that our dew-formed water is naturally distilled and very clean. It is potable water ready to drink without the need for additional sterilizing agents. Of course, we must make sure that the interior piping and cistern network is biologically cleansed before burying it underground. The hand pump with its 10 to 15 foot extended piping to reach the underground cistern must also be cleansed. The beauty of this constantly replenishable water supply is its convenient underground installation anywhere! After the in-ground installation, we have a virtual, partially passive, no moving parts, non-breakdown system containing above ground total access to all moving parts that could breakdown, namely the water pump and electric fan. Also, it is easily maintained, with few moving parts (water hand-pump and electric fan) and basically lacking any technical complexity which makes it ideal for technologically backward regions. The example below uses a relatively small industrial fan moving air at 1500 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) with a DC motor rated at 1kW. This fan together with our underground piping system will conservatively generate 12 GPH (Gallons Per Hour) of potable drinking water without need for any purification chemistry. Based on an average electrical cost of 14-cents per kWh (kilo-Watt hour), the typical commercial distillation of one gallon of drinking water costs roughly 35-cents as compared to our cost of only 1.2-cents. Furthermore, if we decide to go green and use solar energy for generating our water, it would effectively cost us nothing beyond the initial installation! USING A PSYCHROMETRIC CHART TO SIZE OUR WATER SUPPLY: The following gets a little technical and is only provided for those die-hards who are truly interested in how the science works. Those non-technically schooled may skip this part and not miss the basic concept. Figure-2 shows a Psychrometric Chart for air. This chart summarizes some of the basic thermodynamic properties of air throughout its typical range of operating temperature. The chart uses six basic air properties that defines the physical chemistry of water evaporation into air:  (1) the enthalpy or total energy contained within a unit of air which is a combination of its internal and external energy, expressed as the amount of BTU-energy per unit mass of reference dry-air, (2) the specific volume or the ratio of a unit volume of local air to its mass of reference dry-air, (3) the humidity ratio or the amount (mass) of moisture in a local unit of air divided by its reference mass of dry-air, (4) the percent relative humidity per unit of local air, or the mass ratio (expressed in percentage form) of the partial pressure of water vapor in the air-water mixture to the saturated vapor pressure of water at those conditions (the relative humidity depends not only on air temperature but also on the pressure of the system of interest),  (5) the dry-bulb temperature or the locally measured air temperature, and (6) the wet-bulb temperature or saturation temperature which is the local air temperature experienced during constant water evaporation (a wet-bulb thermometer is typically used:   a thermometer that measures resultant temperature while wrapped in a water wet-gauze and spun to generate local air movement and max-evaporation)  1.0   The Process and A Sample Calculation Our Psychrometric Chart uses six thermodynamic properties that help to determine the amount of water available for extraction from the local ambient air as a function of its temperature, pressure and relative humidity.  Let’s assume the following local ambient conditions for the region we plan to construct our water system at:  (1) Typical daily air temperature Td = 106F and one atmosphere pressure assumed at sea-level, (2) Relative Humidity, RH = 55%, and (3) Typical underground temperature down at six feet is measured at Tu=55F (at 12ft. it drops to ~45F). This yields the following calculated results for obtaining a steady-state supply (changes at night) of water to fill the cistern:      1)      In our example, the “local” air (dry-bulb) temperature is Td=106F, at a relative humidity of RH= 55%.  Fig-2 indicates that the resultant Humidity Ratio is HR= 0.0253 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air (intersection of Td=106F line and RH=55% line, then horizontal to HR value).  We then determine the “gulp” of air volume containing the HR Lbs-water which corresponds to the point of intersection of Td and RH. Interpolating on specific volume “mv” yields mv=14.7 ft3/Lb-Dry-Air (this value sets the optimum unit airflow for our given ambient conditions, and creates a ballpark pipe length to diameter ratio needed later). It represents the basic unit of air volume that will enter our underground pipe per given time, and ultimately defines the size of our fan and piping network. For increased water creation, multiples of this unit volume will scale up the additional amounts of water that can be collected. 2)      As the inlet air cools down to a temperature of Tu=55F, from contact with the relatively cold underground pipe, we follow the constant enthalpy line (red upward left-diagonal) from the intersection of Td and RH to its saturated air temperature condition of Ts= ~88F, which is its dew-point temperature where the corresponding local RH=100%.  At this temperature or under, the air precipitates and releases its moisture content, resulting in water condensation onto the pipe walls.  Since our air will chill to a final pipe temperature of Tu=~55F, we follow the RH=100% saturated curve (green) down to yield an HR=~0.009 Lbs-water/Lb-Dry-Air. This is how much water is left in the air when it gets to 55F.  Therefore for every pound of local outside air that enters the pipe, mw=0.0253 – 0.009 = 0.0163 pounds of absolute pure, distilled potable water precipitates onto the inside pipe wall (per pound of dry air that is cooled and dehydrated) to gravity-flow out the pipe exit and into the cistern. 3)      We now convert pounds of air per unit time into a unitized volumetric airflow that yields gallons of hygienically pure potable water production per unit time. For every Va=100 ft3 of local volumetric air movement per minute (CFM) through the pipe, which translates into ma=Va/mv= 100/14.7 = 6.8 lbs. of dry air per minute or 6.8 * 60 = 408 lbs. per hour (PPH), to yield a water-flow of mwf=ma * mw = 408 * 0.0163 = 6.65 PPH or 6.65/8.345 = 0.8 GPH of water.  An industrial fan rated at 1kW DC will typically move 1500 CFM at a pressure of 8-iwc, to continuously produce 15 * 0.8 = 12 GPH of pristine potable water. 4)      Not shown here are the design details of sizing our pipe, fan and solar collection system for electric power requirements using heat transfer principles coupled with a thermodynamic heat balance, and aerodynamic fan performance assessment. These details help to size the electric power generation requirements plus margin used to properly size a solar collector containing further margins for overcast days. The engineering involved here is straight forward but beyond the scope of the current project.

Topic by RT-101    |  last reply

Japan Day 1

(I am planning on doing a forum post for each day of my trip in Japan. The first few days will just be copy pasted from my blog (but now with pictures, and image notes!), and after that I will type up the entry I kept for each day in my journal)I am writing this all on my eee pc, and, while I am getting the hang of this tiny keyboard, typing mistakes are common. I am also in various states of mental functioning so excuse any grammatical errors.I woke up at around 6:45 on Thursday morning. I had been feeling a bit under the weather, and was slightly congested. I really hoped that I did not catch something right before my trip. I woke up the other interns (Bilal, Josh, and Paul), because I knew they would be very sad and might cry, if I did not give them the last chance to say goodbye to me. We did a 4 way shoulder-tap, the universe imploded, and I was off.As I walked down Clementina I realized that it would be the last time I smelled that poo stench on the street. I had mixed feelings about this.The BART ride to SFO was very uneventful. Check in was amazingly fast. The line was short and moved quickly. I had almost everything I was taking with me in my carry-on. There was nothing in my checked baggage but knives and lint (one knife & one swiss tech mulikey). Anyway the whole process of checking in took about 15 minutes. The security checkpoint was even faster. There was no line, and for the first time in a long time I didn't set off the metal detector. I had shown up three hours before my flight to be safe, and I was now left with two hours and forty minutes to kill.I went to the currency exchange and turned 300$ into 27,000 yen. The Lonely Planet guidebook I have (which was printed just last year), has the exchange rate of one USD to 120 Yen, at the exchange booth they offered about 98 Yen for a dollar, google says the current rates are 107 yen to a dollar. Stupid weak American money. Anyway, I used ten dollars which I did not convert to yen to buy an english muffin breakfast sandwich and a gatorade. I went to my terminal, and accidentally dropped the barely touched sandwich on the floor while removing my backpack. I was hungry :(I read for two hours then boarded the plane at around 11. There were many people coughing on this eleven hour flight, so I did not have high hopes for avoiding sickness. Read some more on the flight, watched iron man in Japanese, watched iron man in english, and watched be kind rewind. They served two decent meals, and a few snacks in between. Ten hours later when we were finally over Japan, I went to the back of the plane, and stared out the window in the emergency exit door to get my first view of Japan.We landed around 2 pm on Friday. It was hot, so very hot (humid too). I filled out my customs form, got fingerprinted, and photographed, and made my way over to the baggage claim to pick up my knives. I made my way out of the airport to the train, and bought a ticket for what I hoped was a kanayama station bound train. Turns out it was. (cue the "ding" sound that is played on the audio tracks for slideshows, when it is time to change the slide). The first few pictures are of Kanayama station. There was a cool little inflatable pool, with little kids in miniature paddle boats. They also had a bunch of those water mist sprayers that people stand in front of to cool off.I relaxed at the train station for a bit before I caught the number 12 bus. I took it to the Ishikawa Bashi stop, and got off. I used a pay phone to call up Changmi who I had found on I actually set up the couchsurf with her husband (who was out of town) who said it would be ok for me to stay, so I think she was a little surprised when I called. She said that she was currently hosting two couples who each had a small child. It was cool if I stayed, but it would be crowded. She picked me up at the nearest intersection with her mother, one of the couples, and their child in the car.We drove to downtown Nagoya and they let us out. Changmi and her mother were going somewhere, so I hung out with Sarah, Seba, and their daughter Maya. They were couchsurfers from France who had been in Japan for a couple of weeks. We walked around central park in downtown Nagoya for a bit. There is the large TV tower at one end of the park, and a bunch of art pieces scattered about randomly (metal taco boat thing). We went and got dinner, which I later found out to be pig intestines, with an egg, over rice. It was pretty good.After eating we took the subway back to Changmi's house and slept.Japan Day 2

Topic by Tetranitrate    |  last reply

The risks of DIY carpet cleaning and how save a buck or two....

I am writing this partly because of bed experiences with rental angents/landlords and as a general help.Here in Australia as well as other parts of the world it is common pratise that a real estate agent goes through your rented home multiple times a year to check if you keep it clean and undamaged.In most cases these visits go without any hickup until you move out.At this point agents often try to make your life a misery.Some expect you get the house back to the state it was 10 years ago when you moved - an impossible task.Carpet cleaning is usually done with a rented machine.This mean you pay a deposit for the machine and "rent" is made by the highly overpriced cleaning fluid you have to use with the machine.But more and more people see that a $100 machine from the discounter is a "money saver".So lets start with the main differences between a rented, commercial grade machine and those you find at the discounter to buy.The later comes quite small and in plastic, the commercial one is usually all metal and has huge water and waste tank.And lets be honest here, if a good vacuum cleaner sets you back more than twice what your new floor cleaning machine costs.....For me the real difference is in the sucktion.If you start with 10 liters in a commercail machine then you should expect to get over 8 liters back in the waste tank.The added waste often makes it seem much more though ;)The cheap discounter vesion however often struggles to get half of the water back out of your carpet that it drained into it!This is not only due to the weaker vacuum created but also due to the general design and lack of sealing the area that is sucked up.But during a hot summer week this makes no vital difference as it dries off anyway, or does it?Dryness and contamination....If you wash your clothes than you let them fully dry before you wear them.With a freshly cleaned carpet we often don't have that luxury and if the weather won't play nice you might end with a moist carpet for weeks.A proper wash of the carpet would require that water is actually flowing through the fabric.This is achieved by designing water outlets and sucktion areas to be in close proximity.However, most carpets these days are thin and flimsy, the underlay brings the comfort and often the required insulation from the cold floor.Fun fact: Most quality carpets in the EU come with a rubber or foam like backing which prevents that little spills go through and also leave the carpet basically dry after a cleaning.If the amount of water your machine collects does not get very close to what you filled into the tank then you end with a quite wet carpet and underlay.Cold from underneath and with basically no airflow through it.And if you ever removed an old carpet that was cleaned every few years you do know why you wear a protective suit, gloves and a filter mask on your face....It is simply impossible with a handheld machine to prevent water and contaminants from getting into the foam underlay of US and AU style carpet assemblies.Once fully dry there is little chance for anything to grow, but every time you clean the carpet you add the water required...I had it in two rentals that when I cleaned the carpets with a really good machine that stains from within the underlay came back up into the carpet.A job planned for a day then turned into three days of using heater fans and living in a sauna while washing carpets :(The same is true if you end up with fresh dirt or such on the carpet while it is still moist underneat - it gets worked ino the carpet and becomes even harder to clean.Is a commercial cleaning the better option?Sadly I have to say this highly depends on your agent/landlord and how much time and money you have.In some areas agents simply ignore the law and demand from you that the carpet looks at least as good as when you moved in.And if old stains you did not know about come from the filthy underlay a rented machine can come close to the cost of getting a commercail team in to do the job once you vacated.Either way you get an invoice for the service and a statement about the condition of the carpets before and after the cleaning.These guys come with a big van and before it fires up with water only the vacuum is used.Imagine a monster sized vacuum cleaner head on steroids that connects to an industrial sized evacuation fan in the van.It literally lifts your carpet from the underlay and leaves nothing loose behind.The actual cleaning and sanitation works the same way only with the big difference that the water is sprayed with pressure through the carpet and into the underlay.Final round is done dry and with vacuum only, means the carpets are dry enough to walk on them without getting wet feet.A complete dry state is usually reached within 2 days during the summer unlike rented machines that keep the humidity in your house up and high for about 2 weeks until back to normal.Main benefit of a commercail cleaning is that you won't get any issues with your agent/landlord unless you damaged the carpets or made them impossible to clean - ever dropped an ink jet printer refill kit? ;)If I do it myself with a reasonably good machine or a rented one : Do I have options for the cleaning solution used?Trust me, I had to figure that one out quickly when I moved into my first rental down here.4 bedrooms, entire house with carpet except for the kitchen and wet areas.They appeared reasonably clean at a first look but when I used a UV flashlight at night the story was shocking....In what must have a room for a baby the carpet looked like a psychedlic art impression under the UV light.The living room was not much better.As a result the rented machine ran out of cleaning fluid quickly.Bought 2 bottles that were supposed to be suffient for the house size but if you need several rounds per room.I "finnished" the former baby room and was one bottle down already.Called it a day and in the dark the UV light showed a slithly fades art impression but nowhere clean :(The shop had a heavy duty cleaning solution but I did not consider it with a price twice as high.Instead I wondered what would make my carpet different from my clothes in my washing machine....So I got a canister of Oxy-cleaner - sometimes called nappy soaking powder, or similar.Just make sure you get one that does not foam up too much.I used a bucket to dissolve a good amount of the powder before filling it into the machine - at about 40°C.What ended in the waste tank when using this cheap alternative looked digusting to say the least!With that encouragement I decided to make a new bucket with some added washing powder, just a tablespoon worth or just over.Washing powder for front loader does not foam up much, unlike the stuff for top loader, so choose wisely.That was, all counted, the forth cleaning round for the former baby room but after this the UV light showed a clean carpet that also had nice spring fresh smell thanks to the washing powder.Using the same appraoch of lots of oxy cleaner and a bit of washing machine powder in semi hot water made cleaning the rest of the house a breeze!When going slow with the machine it was like mowing the lawn, it left a clean path behind.Not all carpets might tolerate oxy cleaners though, especially if they are quite colorful, so do a spot check first if you never used the stuff to clean up a little spill of red wine before.And please keep some of the commercial cleaning fluid at hand to give the machine a quick wash through with it, otherwise the shop might ask you if you used non approved cleaning stuff with it ;)Tips for adjustable cleaning machines....Some of the rented machines come with several possible adjustments you can make.In the most basic form you can adjust the amount water used and how strong the machine sucks.Keep the sucktion as high as possible unless you actually want to pre soak the carpet.The amount of water should be adjusted to the type of carpet not to how dirty it is!You want just enough water to soak the carpet without going into the underlay too much.A clear sign of using too much water is if you waste tank is only half full when the water tank is empty.A few of the really good machines let you adjust the distance between the water outlet and sucktion area.In most cases there pre-set to what, from experience is the most commonly type of carpet in the area.Your might be different though...A greater distance means more time for the cleaning solution to do its job.This works especially well for thicker carpets with amount of water turned down to below 50%.For thin carpets a short distance is better as the water does not have to go deep into the fabric.Here you can even increase the water flow for very dirty areas without risking to soak the underlay too much.In either case you should check the machine before taking it home and if adjustable have the options explained to you in the store.Anything for really bad areas?The entrance area is often subject to whatever our shoes collected outside, especially if you have kids or playful dogs.A bit of oil from the road, some sticky residue of something, dust, small gravel and sand....Vacuum out what comes out first, then use a suitable, not too stiff brush if your vacuum cleaner does not have a rotating brush in the head.Use a spray bottle and prepare a solution of warm water with a bit of washing machine powder and a shot glass worth of methylated spirit.Slightly wet the soiled area with the spray bottle without saturating it.Use the brush to agitate the carpet fibres - preferably directional and with even strokes.If they are not wet in the deeper areas spray a bit more.Again: you don't want to soak it you want to wet it.Give it about 20 minutes on a warm day a bit longer if the insede temps are below 25°C.Check with your hand if the area is still wet, the alcohol should speed up the evaporation here.Before it dries up repeat the process and check with a paper towel if it picks up the stains already.If so then run over the area with cleaning machine.Best results are achieved if you manage to get the fibres wet all the way down with the brush and won't let the area fully dry off again after the spraying.How can I speed up the drying time?The only way to speed things up is heat and airflow.If outside humidty is quite high then you will struggle.Even in the summer times the humidity levels over night can get well into or even over the 80% region.Opening doors and windows then to get the carpet dry won't really help you.Best time to clean your carpets is actually at night because by the time you are done the sun is out and the humity levels much lower.On a good day below 30%.This is true even for the winter times.Put a few fans up and make sure the temperatures are well above the 20°C mark.If in doubt you have to turn the heater on.Once the humidity inside is sky high you open up all windows and doors to have an exchange of air.A few minutes suffice here unless there is wind at all.If it is a hot summer day you can of course just let it all open until the sun goes down again.During colder times pay special attention to cold areas, like your toilet, bathroom or in general areas that won't warm up properly.Even if the room was not cleaned the moisture can accumulate here and cause mold and mildew.If in doubt make sure the ENTIRE house is warm enough until your carpets are fully dry again.A humidity sensor or gauge certainly helps, two are better so you can check inside and outside at the same time.

Topic by Downunder35m  

TEDxBaghdad - Iraq - violence, dust storms and open sourced manufacturing

Baghdad Iraq. It was once the jewel of the Muslim empire and epicenter of knowledge in the Eastern world. Now it is best known for corrupt governance, bombings, and dust storms. It was also my parents’ home. After visiting once in 1991 as a child the few memories I have of Iraq seemed to be shouting matches as my parents yelled over the phone making overseas calls. Names of Uncles I had never met were mentioned and a phone was handed to me and I was left to nervously fend for myself with my weak Iraqi slang and an Uncle who apparently knew all about me while I knew nothing of him. The country was an impenetrable black box to me that would spit out another refugee somewhere in the world every few years or so. Sixteen years later the first wall between Iraq and me was broken. In 2007 my nuclear family had traveled to Syria and for the first time I met family members who still lived in Baghdad. I knew them now. My uncles and cousins grew flesh and blood. I could feel their prickly faces as we greeted with the traditional Iraqi 4 sided cheek kiss. They could graciously give me their dishdashas as gifts. Names finally had faces, but those faces were deep, sunken and afraid. 2007 was a bad year of sectarian war in Iraq, which is why the Damascas district of Harasta was flooded with Iraqis. The sound of construction continued through the night to keep up with the massive (ab)use of the "tourist" visas. I saw something in the Iraqis in Syria that I hadn't seen before; something that scared me. I saw hopelessness. It was then I settled on a long-term project to return to the country and share something that I had just discovered around the same time: the future doesn’t come prepared -- we make the future. The do-it-yourself attitude that was growing in America was being combined with the culture of sharing that you find in hackerspaces, at and in open source technology. This atmosphere made anything possible. You want to build a vertical generator without any spinning parts? Sure! How about a walking quadraped robot with a sofa? Do you want to quit your job, write zines and sell them in the crafting circle? Sure! Start a business! Write a novel! Organize a benefit concert! Sure - sure - sure! “Make your own future” was the message. It was a message of hope - it was the message that I wanted to share in the Middle East, and especially in Iraq. In 2011 the opportunity to work on sharing this beautiful message in the Middle East presented itself to me, so I quit my robotics job and took it (sorry Andrew). A few friends and I started a tiny organization called GEMSI - The Global Entrepreneurship and Maker Space Initiative. We funded ourselves through Kickstarter and our first project was a Three-Day Maker Space hosted at Makerfaire Africa. We were hoping to let people experience the feeling of the Maker Movement first-hand. We collaborated with Emeka and the team from MFA, Cairo Hackerspace, along with many amazing egyptians from all over the country. We had a successful first attempt at sharing the message of "Yes you can!” It was a great start, but Iraq was still an impenetrable fortress to me. It took till 2012 and a chance encounter with friends in Cambridge, MA for me to find my first avenue back into Iraq. Via my friends, I met someone who’s friend was affiliated with TEDxBaghdad. A few steps removed, sure, but when I heard about TEDxBaghdad I knew I had found my way in. I knew TEDx and the types of programs they hosted; I knew they were hopeful, inspired, and shared a vision for a brighter tomorrow. I started communicating with Emeka from MFA, who also works with TED, and he put me in touch with Yahay. After my first skype call with Yahay I knew I was going. Someone else had done it - someone broke that barrier, did amazing work in the country, and survived. It wasn't the death trap my family was telling me it was. There was a new narrative being woven and I knew what I needed to do. I booked my flights before I even finalized any workshops. I needed to meet the TEDxBaghdad team. Later, I called my parents and told them I was going to Baghdad and they said, "Shinu?! Inta Makhabal?!" That probably means exactly what you think it does. Needless to say, they had their concerns, but I was going regardless. Now that the tickets were bought, we started planning. Yahay put me in touch with Abdal Ghany, one of the Iraqi organizers living in Baghdad. He coordinated everything. It was amazing. These guys kick some serious planning butt! Ghany basically told me, “Show up and give your workshop. We'll take care of the rest.” This was a welcome change from the hours of facebooking, planning, and coordination I usually have to go through to schedule events. It really seemed like this was possible. I was going to give an Arduino and 3D printing workshop in Baghdad and I was really excited! I sent an email to Sparkfun and Makezine asking them for open source electronics donations since I knew bringing my electronics box through the airport wouldn't be a good idea. They sent me a nice goodie-bag of beautifully packaged Maker products. These two organizations have given me a tremendous amount of help throughout the years, for which I am extremely thankful. I packed a suitcase filled with 2 3D printers, 25 Arduinos, an assortment of other open source hardware and sensors and headed out looking a bit like a bomb development lab. Yeesh! Somehow I made it through China, Saudi, and Turkey without any serious interrogation. Mostly just really quizzical looks from my unzipped bag up back to me... "You're a teacher?" they ask. "Yes," I say, "yes I am." Turkey was the stop before Iraq. Turkey was brilliant, sunny, lush, and seemed to be comprised of mostly happy smiling people walking by the sea. Coming from the deserts of Mecca, this was a welcome sight. I let the green of Turkey wash away the dust of Saudi Arabia. The mishmash of cultures, sounds, foods, religions gave me a great feeling of liberation. This was a lively place and the two hackerspaces I met up with there, Base Istanbul and Istanbul Hackerspace were fantastic hosts. Furkan and I spent a lovely day together chatting about Maker culture as it spreads through the Middle East and then in the end we had a potluck BBQ with members from both hackerspaces by the rocks of the sea. It was great to see these two Turkish hackerspaces and to be reminded that this movement is truly global. My dream of hackerspaces empowering people globally is really possible – and it’s great to know that it is a dream that is shared by others. I left them full of enthusiasm and flew directly to Baghdad. Landing in Baghdad was strange and a bit concerning. Looking out of the window all I could see was a brown cloud. We were landing in a dust storm. I had heard about the turab (dust) of Iraq, but this was the first time I saw it in person, and it would be one of the things most often on my mind. Getting a visa for me was surprisingly easy, except for the fact I forgot my passport on the plane and two guards had to escort me one to each side back to the airplane to retrieve it. But once I had my passport, I told them my laqab, which is the full name that includes ancestry. Showed them a copy of my dad’s passport and my Iraqi birth certificate and I was in. I was hoping for a nice stamp, perhaps with some Iraqi relic on it. But they took my passport and wrote in it: "Originally Iraqi", so there it goes, it's official. Ahmed, my cousin, was not at the airport when I took my paper work and headed out to the lobby. The airport was sparsely populated and heavily regulated. I barely managed to snap a picture before a guard came up to me and had me delete them from my phone. In the lobby I met a man just released from a Swiss prison. The Swiss had given him the option to be sent back home to Iraq, or be jailed. He chose to leave and come back to Iraq. This becomes a theme later as I see more and more people, all of whom desire to leave the country to become refugees elsewhere. It seems that when hope runs out for the country you live in, the only option is to find a new one. This story is one of a million various stories of struggling to find a new life. Each varies in its details, but all have survival at their core. Ahmed arrives 30 minutes late, apologizing. He's wearing jeans and a polo. His hair seemed freshly cut and his face was serious. We had never met before. The only thing I knew of him was that he thought I was reckless for coming. He had been spending hours on Skype with me attempting to convince me that coming would be a bad idea: "You have no idea how bad the bugs are. Just wait till you see the dust storms. The heat will kill you... etc" But once I saw him in person it all changed. I didn't think I'd grow to like Ahmed, but I grew to appreciate his ways and he became like a brother to me before I left. He took me to Mansour, a neighborhood in Baghdad, telling me stories about Iraq as we travelled. This is the neighborhood where the house my dad designed and family built stands. On the ride home we had our car checked for bombs at least 4 times by what Iraqi's call Saytarat, which is the equivalent of a checkpoint and, to me, seemed a total nuciance. They were the reason he was late. What would normally be a 20 minute drive can become three hours long because every car is checked for bombs. They are everywhere; throughout the city, on every road. We passed the guard who watches over my family’s neighborhood, and he takes his hand off his machine gun to wave at Ahmed, and I begin to recognize that weapons, car inspections and burned out cars are normal here, so they don't think to comment on it - like an empty lot in Detroit, or the homeless in San Francisco. We got to my family home with no time to rest. I had to leave to meet up with Abdul Ghany and the crew at a Cafe in an hour and then conduct the workshop in two. Ahmed comes with me - he doesn't trust people we'd never met before and won’t let me out of his sight. I trust first till proven otherwise, he has learned to do the opposite. It’s a telling sign of how different our lives are on a day-to-day basis. As soon as I met the TEDxBaghdad crew, I felt at ease. MNA, Abdul Ghany and the entire crew were thoughtful, hardworking, and inspiring people. I was really happy to have intersected with them and they helped me in more ways than I could count. We first met up at Everyday, a local Mansour café. Everyday cafe was hyper airconditioned and everyone seemed to think it was hotter than it was. The crew was awesome, they were really a great first introduction to the excited young people of Baghdad and they certainly have the famed Iraqi hospitality. But here's a tip: do not order a fajita in Baghdad ;D. Mohammed Al-Samarraie pulled out their iPads and started showing me video production work he was doing for TEDx. Abdul Ghany comes a little late and we have head out to the workshop. The workshop was held in a two story office building surrounded by palm trees. Looking out the the tinted back window we could see the muddy river run past, winding and dark. Slowly the TEDx people started trickling in. Then I started to get nervous. The checkpoints didn't bother me, the tanks in the streets were not an issue, but here were these people coming to learn something from me. What could I share that would really matter to them when they had so much to deal with daily? What could I share that could be relevant to people who see bombings as I experience lightning storms? I have been to other places in the world to share this kind of information, and some of those places have had political problems and ongoing revolutions. But Iraq was the first country I had been to that really seemed like a war zone. I decided that first I needed to learn from them! What were their projects? What did they hope for? I hoped they would learn from each other and get excited about their projects and I wanted to be able to share things that were relevant to them. Thus, everyone was encouraged to talk about who they are, how they learned about TEDxBaghdad and to share their project, share with us their mission, or share an inspiring story. I was amazed to hear about all the incredible initiatives the crew was doing. From intercultural exchange programs, to street clean ups, to historical artifact preservation, each of them shared and I started realizing something. They were not as interested in new technology as they were interested in arts and culture and after hearing about a few of their projects I started realizing why. Learning about culture and paying attention to the arts gives people the ability to pay attention to details. They can look at another human being and see all the subtleties that make us who we are. We each fall in love, we struggle, we question, and have doubts. Arts give depth to a black and white world. Sectarianism is difficult when we pay attention to the commonalities that tie us all together. What would the world be like if anyone who wanted a weapons license was required to have visited India, could pass an art history exam and could play stairway to heaven on the guitar? We were in a sort of office building near the river which ran by dark and muddy looking through the tinted windows. One by one, they stood up in front and gave their short presentations. There were doctors, engineers, and designers in the crew. They each stood up and told the story of how they found out about TEDxBaghdad and it was incredible. Each of them had a friend recommend it to them, and it was mostly done through Facebook. Some people's projects were related to health, culture, antiquity preservation, and connecting Iraqis with the rest of the world. While they spoke I made a graph of the things that connected all of their ideas together. It was a beautiful thing to see. The common themes were to help Iraq as a country through the integration of new ideas and how to bring a new face of Iraq and present it to the world. To have the news about Iraq be about amazing things, inspiring things, rather than explosions. Being in that room with that energy made me feel like we were already on our way. I pulled out the boxes of donations given to us by Sparkfun and The Make Shed and now it was my turn. I told them about my story coming into contact with my friend Alex through, how being in San Francisco and Cambridge opened my eyes to a new way of entrepreneurship using communities and open source technology. And how they could make anything they could imagine if they got together to do it. We discussed how sharing and collaboration was a common value that held the entire system together. I used the concept of the LED throwie, which is a simple idea by Graffiti Research Labs to connect an LED to a coin battery and a magnet. They used it to throw at ferrous buildings as a form of electronic graffiti but once they uploaded it to instructables the idea was out there and people were inspired to take it and derive many other projects. You can never know what will happen when you share something or when you create a tool and share it. People created outlined throwies, LED floaties in balloons and finally we start seeing LED floaties which are sequenced to act like a light show at a phish concert. Hahaha! We then talked about the Arduino an easy to use microcontroller designed for artists. It's a bit of technology that is a simple and easy to use platform to build interactive projects. We talked about how the open nature of the project people can use the Arduino and then use shields to add features like being able to connect to the internet or play MP3s. Open source tools make building new products a lot like using legos. We were in the middle of using some of the sensors The Maker Shed had sent us to make a DIY heart rate monitor when the power went out and all went dark except for the LED throwies we had made. It suddenly felt very intimate. We put all the LED throwies in the center of the room and huddled around it for story time. The feeling of connection was palpable for me. Sure the lack of power meant that we were not going to be able to 3D print, but being in the dark with TEDxBaghdad was one of my favorite memories of this trip. The lights went on and we had a long question and answer session / photo shoot. Some of the doctors were interested to use the Arduino based heart rate monitors to replace the broken ones in the hospital. I heard about this and was flabbergast that the most basic and cheap tools I had brought with me might have a direct impact and may even save lives. Technology might not solve the political problems of the country but it seems that there was a lot of room for development and that the crew I was with was creative and excited to make use of it. I passed out 20 Arduino kits that day, including the Lillypad which is a version of the Arduino intended to be sewn into clothing. Although there were very few engineers in the audience, everyone seemed to be buzzing with ideas and ways to use the Arduinos. What a great workshop! I was super excited because not only had they understood the message, they seem to have been infected with the feeling of capability! Now to seal the deal, we were all going to go out and eat a classic Iraqi dish Simach Masguf. Ahmed has been calling me hourly making sure that I was OK, but I felt safe enough with my new friends so we all headed out to a fish spot by the river. Hours go by, lots of fish is eaten, and lots of juice is drunk. Some of the crew smoke some sheesha. It was like I was with new old friends. My Iraqi slang was improving hourly and although we had just met I knew me and TEDxBaghdad we're going to be working together again very soon. I would have stayed all night eating and chatting about future projects and the problems to solve in Iraq, but the cerfew was about to set in and we had to jet. Yeah, there is still a curfew. On the ride home my head is filled with contradictions. Hope and confusion mix in my head as my family rings 4 more times. I get home safe and decide that the only way to deal with the complicated situation in Iraq was to act with irrational hope and optimism. That's the way TEDxBaghdad seemed to work. And that's going to be mine as well. The next day there were five explosions in Baghdad so TEDxBaghdad and I decided against going out to the Iraqi National Museum even though we had to request permission to go. We meet instead back at Everyday and there we solidify our commitment to working for a more beautiful Baghdad and a country which will become a producing nation once again. Sharing with the world it's art, science and literature like it once did years ago. +BG

Topic by lamedust    |  last reply

Cfmoto 650 - possible options to derestrict the Australian model

When it comes to motorcycles with restrictions then Australia seems to be pretty much alone in the world.Despite an abundance of bike to choose from that would fit weight/power limitations it seems to be common to go overboard here.As a result basically all popular motorbikes up the 650ccm hit the AU market in a restricted form if they don't match the limitations by default.For someone in the US just reading this might sounds like a useless concept to get people to learn how to ride a motorcycle.As a fully licensed rider and being on a budget a bike for just over half the price of a Japanase model is still tempting.And for general touring use the MT is actually quite a comfortable bike.Big downside is the impossiblity to get certain bikes in an unrestricted form.For the Cfmoto's of the older type, running the Ducati ECU it is as simple as adding a suitable fuel/ignition tuner module and removing the physical restrictions.The newer models from 2017 onwards use a more reliable Bosch ECU though.With them it is appearently possible to use BWM tuning module but with the requirement to do a full remap on a Dyno.The 2018 MT is my bike, so I will focus on this, but the gerneral things are identical on all the Cfmoto 650 models.A word on the legal things first....Outside AU none of this concerns you as your Cfmoto will come unrestricted anyways.Within AU however we are subject to several laws that make the legal modification of a so called LAMS motorcycle virtually impossible.You can even put a different exhaust or airfilter on them without risking to loose your license and get some hefty fines.As a fully licensed rider however the law often turns a blind eye on these things as they don't really matter as long as they won't affect the safety of the bike, rider or other road users.With the plated riders out for now, let's focus on the options for a fully licensed rider, shall we?There is no need for a RWC or anything if you already owned the bike in the LAMS version.But if you try, for example, to go to Vicroads and have the registration details changed to reflect that the bike is now running with it's full factory default power, or a bit more you are lost.Two reasons for this.Firstly Cfmoto did not bother to import and register for road use any unrestricted version of the 650's.Secondly the VIN number and engine number are fixed in a database for LAMS only bikes.You would need a full engeneering certificate to register the bike in any modified version that affects the power output or reduces the weight of the bike.Sets you back about 10.000 dollars and still won't garantee that Vicroads actually transform it into a legal, unrestricted bike.The police has little to no interest in what a fully licensed rider does to a bike - within the usual limits of course.And since you would not sell the bike without fully reverting it back to the LAMS state the risk of prosecution can be fully minimised:If your insurer agrees to provide full comprehensive cover once the bike is (properly) reverted to what the international models are it is down to serious accidents that might still cause trouble.For example when you cause severe injuries to someone else the bike would be checked for modifications that could have had an influence on the accident.My insurer explained it like this:If the bike is checked roadworthyness after an accident it would fail because it is no longer LAMS compliant.That would automatically default the rider to be responsible for the accident even if not at fault at all.With that it is mandatory to have all the details about the modifications listed and validated in the insurance policy!Adding a tuning module for example would mean providing a fully Dyno chart with a safety confirmation from a licensed vehicle tester.For example the confirmation would state that a power Commander with Auto Tune module was installed together with a slip on exhaust system.Bike specifications allow for the save use with said modifications based on the results of the Dyno runs.With that the rider is put back into legal territory as the insurer stands for the roadworthyness of the modifications.It certainly helps to just stick with the default options and to provide the Cfmoto cert copy from the same international version of the bike.A plated rider should never attempt any of this as it still means there is no way to get away - legally and financially!Possible tuning options for the LAMS versions:Adding one the usualy tuning modules is not only pain but also costly if done properly.Being a LAMS bike you will have a hard finding a reputable shop to install a tuning module for you.Doing it yourself can be tricky, especially if you consider that the default wire colors are often different on the bike.Takes a few hours to check the wiring diagram, follow and measure connections and then to finally risk starting the bike....It works though if you know what you doing.Biggest downside is that you won't find any ready to go maps that you can use.And trust me trying to modify fuel or ignition maps yourself is not for the faint of heart and only an option if you a) know what you are doing and b) have the tools for it.There is a good chance the bike actually runs worse than without the module.Now the obvious solution would be to go for some Dyno runs and to have it all setup properly.Again, with a LAMS bike you will have a hard time finding a licensed and reputable shop to take your bike in.If you find one that does it anyway than it really is best to go for the full package and to suck the costs up.Let them supply the required modules, sensors and all, deal with the airbox and throttle limiter.Then have the usual 3-4 Dyno runs to get the mapping done properly.This approached worked perfectly fine for the older bikes using the Ducati ECU.The new models with the Bosch ECU might still struggle to accept the tuning changes.Reason for this is the checking of literally all sensor informations.Means the tuning module must cater for this and not just fool the O2 and TPS sensor readings.Just removing the throttle limiter and airbox restrictions will cause the bike to run too hot very quickly and also puts your ECU into a lean default mode once you see ECU errors flashing on the dash.Real tuning options that won't have a chance to harm the engine:With all models available internationally and without any restrictions it is relatively easy to find a wrecker in the US, EU or even Asia to supply parts from crashed bikes or those confiscated for destruction by dismantling them.If you are a fully licensed rider and after a bargain or love your first bike so much that you want to keep it once the plates are gone:Organise the ECU, airbox and throttle body from any part of the world except Australia.Sometimes you even find them on Ebay so pay attention to the sellers home country (some AU sellers go international and would then just get the same what is already in your bike ;) )!!Why not just the ECU you ask?Our airbox has added restrictors, just removing is not the best option as they are also responsible for causing required turbulences in the airflow.A straight through or even pot filter option would again require ECU tuning.As said, talking stock here...The throttle body might not be required to get the full power the bike is intended for but you never know for sure.If in doubt pay a few bucks more and have the injectors and sensors included as well ;)But why would I want to pay for a throttle body if it is not 100% certain I would require it?It would'n t have the screw hole for the throttle limiter ;)This tiny detail can be of importance if you go the full lenght, more on that later.With those three components (or two if you want to go without the throttle body) you have a stock international version of the 650.Makes it relatively easy to convince your insurer that the bike is safe to use in this configuration.Adding just a slip on is no problem either as the normal ECU runs quite rich in the higher RPM's anyway and the new exhaust would not make too much mess here.But adding a less restrictive airfilter will need Dyno tuning.Going the full length, especially interesting if you buy a second hand Cfmoto.It will take you a lot of Emails and some overseas phone calls but it is possible to find a wrecker that can sell you the registration plates for the frame of the bike - legally if said wrecker is allowed to sell frame number for rebuilds.Adding this plate to your order means your second hand bike can be deregistered, sadly this means unless you pay extra you need to hand in the numberplates as well.No big deal however if the bike comes without numberplates anyway.Once you installed all parts and replaced the frame ID plate you take the bike for normal RWC check and get your green slip.With that you go and ask to register your bike with new (or your old) numberplates.The Vin will not show up in their database and a red flag comes up, prompting some questions from the offcial behind the counter.The bike you know have is an imported model you got for cheap when you saw it for sale in some carpark with a blown engine.As the actual engines are identical you replaced the blown engine with one from an AU bike that crashed and was written off.In return you now pay a slightly higher than usual transfer fee but get the bike registered as he international model without LAMS restrictions.Even the engine showing up as a LAMS engine is of no concers here as there is no legal reason to not allow the use of a lower powered engine in a motorcycle.You insurance polcy will also go up a few bucks but that is not really worth crying about now anymore.Once you go out with your numberplates you can enjoy a legally derestricted (imported) Cfmoto.Ok, I got it an I say I am a fully licences rider that does not care too much and wants to go as cheap as possible...A brand new ECU from China sets you back about $400AU.Downside is that you are never 100% certain the mapping will fit what is installed on your bike.There might be differences for the US or EU market, not so much though for Asia - so ask for what market region the ECU is intendet and prefer the Asia market here.The airbox limiters should be safe to remove but you might have to make simple plates up to install so the air turbulences are within specs - you will notice if the bike runs really crappy in the high revs and struggles to provide power to the wheel...Unless Cfmoto actually include more limitations in or around the throttle body going with stock should be fine - flashing ECU error will tell you if not.Postage from China can be a pain, not so much for time it takes but for the money charged to use proper and trusted courier services.Up to $100 just for postage is not uncommon but also means the parts are your within a week or 10 days most.Some provide cheap flat rates but both have the risk of being asked to pay import duties if held by AU costoms.Going second hand from some wrecker outside AU can be slightly cheaper for the ECU but again postage can a pain on the pocket.The obvious downside is that the bike with such a simple and direct mod would be still a LAMS bike and if checked make it illegal to use with all the corresponding consequences for the rider - even if fully licensed, please check the above insurance part again if you must.If done properly and maybe even with a slip on: what gains are we talking about in actual figures on the wheel?To be honest not really that much at all, the bike is just too heavy.But the response will improve noticable!The bike pulls out of corners with ease now and no longer requires you shift through the gears with a screaming engine.Imagine you have a small, 4-cylinder car and went on a long holiday trip with your heavy camping trailer always attached.Holidays are over, you unhook the camper and go for a quick run to the shops for supplies.It is that wow feeling that you get when you take off with the weight gone...The gears run higher with a more evenly distributed power instead of just a narrow window of RPM's with enough power to pull away.The KW and RPM values are available on the Cfmoto homepages.What about top speed?I managed to get to a full 110km/h !! ;)For anything above that ask your local Dyno please or pay for a day on the track.What if the police gets me and makes trouble because of the modifications?A well trained officer in a bad mood will always be your nightmare.So I won't go into the troubles if you still need plates or just got your full license a few days ago...You are allowed to ride any road legal motorcycle, no matter the power ratings.However, a really pesky cop wanting to go by the full book on you will use the computer to check your bike and registration details.And if he knows the most obvious non-legal mods to LAMS bikes, like the shiny exhaust you will need a lift home.Chances are though that a clean driving record and having your full license for a few years indicates that you actually know how to handle your bike properly.That is the point where your honesty and details with the insurance company matter.Preferably with you having a copy of your policy with you when riding the bike.With that you can always argue the modifications are documented and approved by your insurer and corresponding vehicle tester.Makes it then only a minor offence for not being LAMS conform.The paperwork to fight you on what your insurer singed off for is just not worth it with a possible drunk driver getting past while you argue....Legally they can still book you or even take the bike but do they ever bother to take those Harleys or street racers with screaming exhausts you hear from miles away before you even see the bike? ;)As said, it comes down to a LAMS offense that is fully covered by your insurer and with that not really worth making a big fuzz about.If you got pulled over for speeding or other offenses the story will be different though as it then could be argued you made these modifications with the INTENT of illegal activities - like speeding or pulling stunts that are not allowed on public roads.Here you insurer can refuse the cover the same way they would for the same offences on a fully legally unrestricted bike.Is it worth taking the risk?No, it is not!If you are after a bike with good handling and power you would not ride a Cfmoto...As a true LAMS bike the resale value is actually quite good if the bike is kept in good condition.Modified you will have a hard time selling it as no learner would take the risk - a working brain assumed here.For a keeper once fully licensed or someone on a budget it can be quite tempting.After all, it leaves a nagging feeling if have a full license and sit on a restricted bike....You always have to explain what you ride and why anyway every time you pull over where chatty bikers are around.Selling the bike in good condition and maybe together with the extras you got over the years might be enough to justify the extra for a second hand bike from Asia, Italy or Austria and give you more leasure and pleasure in the long run.Doing it properly and in the most legal way costs quite a few bucks.If you add this to the current asking price of around 7500 ride away will add at least another $1500.Depending on the exhaust system even more.If you require proper identification and tracing of things like VIN plates it can be clse to $2000.At this point you already see really only makes sense it is a cheap second hand bike, whicj makes the entire approach a bit questionable anyway.With now close to $10.000 for a new bike the difference to a well known brand with maybe a better reputation is not that big anymore.The bike would already be unrestricted and making road legal modification wouldn't interest anyone.Not to mention of course the warranty issues as Cfmoto won't honor any of it if you modify new LAMS bike!Now add the possible costs for repairs or parts that would otherwise be free and free of labour costs and the bargain becomes very expensive before the warranty period is over.There will be the point where you ask yourself why did you bother in the first place....Warranty....Once modded the factory warranty is void so to say.Problem here is that the law is intentionally unclear on the reasons and options applicable here.As the bike would (without exhaust mod) be just like any international model the law states the warranty must be granted.However, Cfmoto has the right to refuse it anyway based on the exclusions required by law to prevent non-LAMS conform bikes from getting back on the road.A blown engine with a proper service history would be no big deal without this.The right to refuse a free warranty replacement for covered parts if the bike was not serviced by a licensed dealer is something car manufacturers already failed with.Cfmoto however will argue that their terms and conditions always superseed any Australian laws or regulations unless it was legally shown that one or more sections are actually invalid in Australia.This includes any evident or suspected tampering with the LAMS restrictions.If in doubt an ECU reading would indicate the impossible throttle positions used and the different ECU.Means even once the warranty is over you can't really take your bike to your dealer for a service or just a check without risking troubles.Some say this is still not enough to deter restricted drivers, I say that any fully licensed rider should have the right to enjoy his bike without LAMS restrictions.But if in doubt Cfmoto is always right, no matter how they argue.Last words from the wise camel....If you are fully licensed it is entirely your choice what you do with your bike and how you deal with - or interprete possible legal issues.Anyone required to display plates should just not think about modding the bike, it is not worth the risk.Although not really a big deal for an experienced rider, the added power and better response can cause a bad judgement.You might have been happy to open her up fully around your favourite hiarpin bend but now it could mean you loose traction even if don't try to break your LAMS approved speed record.Especially when things get a bit slippery and unexpected it can be difficult to prevent the heavy beast from going down.Never underestimate what you can't see and react to in time!Never overestimate your skills or the bikes real capabilities in terms of handling and grip!Once you are fully used to the different response you are fine, until then it is better to play it safe instead of ending up to be very, very sorry....

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply

Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply

Damaged disc(s) in the lower back - what to do and what not ;)

I got diagnosed with a damaged L5 and L6 disc in my lower back about 8 years ago and I thought writing about my experience might helps others facing the same problems. Keeping your back straight when lifting or moving heavy things was a thing I already learned and followed during my school times and as you might have guessed it helped to keep my back healthy - at the expense of my knees... But the knees are a different story, today I want to help you understand lower back problems caused by damaged or bulging discs and how this will affect your life. For me it began with a little shock. One day I got out of bed, wanted to grab something I dropped and got stuck half way up. Knowing that there are some nerves that can cause the same issue and that a simple injection will fix me I called a cab to be dragged laying down on the back seat to my GP. As you might have guessed his diagnosis was a bit worse than what I wanted to hear... Many painful hours and some scans later it was confirmed that my L5 and L6 disk have collapsed on one side and started to push on the nerves next to it. Funny side not that I never really checked was that my doc said not everyone has a L6 disk... Anyways, as with most first "accidents" involving your lower back the so called recovery was long and painful. Sure the painkillers help to numb the worst, the anti inflammatory stuff covers some pain too but actually I did not want the full pain free package deal. Pain is the bodies way to let you know something is wrong, so I kept the pain medication at a level where I got that information when making a wrong move... The first 6 months I was literally confined to my bed, the shower and the toilet. I tried to keep a position with the least amount of pain for as long as possible and for obvious reasons was not too happy that my body not only required food intake but also the disposal of the waste products - getting out of bed and onto the toilet meant experiencing huge amounts of pain every time. But after those 6 months I started to adjust, to the pain as well as what my limited body was now capable of in terms of movement. Needless to say that all this time of not doing anything really meant my scale started to scream tripple digets at me one day... Luckily around the same time my pain levels went to a level that allowed my to walk around 500-600 at slightly slower speeds than normal before the pain got too much. My doctor also got quite concerned about my blood work and body weight recommending to loose a lot if I every intent to get back to a more normal life. So I started to walk several times a day, no matter how bad the weather was, just a bit up and down the street. The distance got longer, the fitness a bit better and the pain levels a bit lower too. Using my old weight lifting belt to keep the back supported helped me a lot during these times, especially when driving or doing housework. During those times I was still on 6-8 panedine forte tablets (paracetamol and codein) plus 2-4 tablets of 20mg oxicontin and not happy about the last anyway. Despite the added levels of pain I started to reduce the level of oxicontin and started to exercise more. My focus was getting the core muscles stronger and to get better support for my back. Also started riding my bike again, although I had to replace it for a bigger model to allow me a more upright position with less stress on the lower back. The kilos started to tumble very slowly but I was already quite proud when I got bak to 90kg. :( Good thing was that I got motivation to continue as every kg I lost and every little bit more on distance I got out of my walks and rides without getting too painful also meant that my average pain level went down too. Two years after it all happened I got rid of the oxicontin completely and reached the 80kg mark. My doc was happy too, my blood work looking good but of course he still suggested to loose a few more kg. Being able to move around again also meant being able to work again and with that came more food, less exercise and a lot more stress. I did manage to hold my 80kg but after about 6 months or working I noticed my back problems started to limit me again. My back belt covered for me and I was able to keep going a while longer but in the end I got hit by another attack on my back. The diagnosis was not good at all as now on top of the pain goind through the back and leg I also hab numbness and a feeling like ants crawl over the leg and chew on it every few mm. As with most lower back "revenges" this one only needed strong pain killers for a few weeks until I was back to something more normal in terms of pain and movability. Sadly the ongoing side effects did not go away the way they did the first time. This meant especiall finding the right position to sleep with the least amount of pain was becoming a nightmare on it's own. Either you got pins and needles keeping you awake, you lost your feeling in the leg to the point where it becomes useless or the pain in the back is just stabbing you all the time. Starting some projects here on Instructables kept my mind busy and gave me some welcome distraction from the daily routine. Eventually I manged to find a job again that allowed me to have enough different movements with only a bit of lifting so things started get back to normal. My doc put me on some amitriptyline to help with the pain at night and although it took some time to get used to the stuff it really started to help after about two weeks. The job was only for a fixed term but it gave me back some confidence that not all is bad or lost. Life went on and I actually manged to get down to just 75kg and only used some painkillers once or twice a week if it was really bad. Then, a few weeks back I started to notice that the top of my foot and the outside of my leg felt different to touch, especially in the shower with some brush or rough sponge. Not being happy already I agreed to some new scans to check if the discs started to cause problems or if the nerves are just inflamed. You might have guessed already, the scan confirmed that my two discs desintegrated further putting more pressure on the already suffering nerves. With the "help" of some quite strong anti inflammatory stuff, cortisone and other meds my doc managed to get me back to "normal" but he also informed me that this won't last forever. The current outcome (without surgery but more on that later on) I have two choices to keep going: a ) I continue with pain killers and other meds to keep the problems at bay. b ) I limit myself to basically not doing anything involving the movemnt of my lower back, keep to a strict calory intake and hope for the best. The first option won't do me any good in the long run except liver, kidney and digestive problems. The second option will allow me some sort of a normal life at the expense of never finding a job to support me again. So once again we soldier on knowing that it will only make things worse as giving up and relying on social services is no option for me. Hoping that you might just had your first encounter with lower back injuries and pain I will give some advise on the things that helped my most so that you might not have to suffer as much I did and still do. So read on please... Diagnosed with a damaged or bulged disc in the lower back - what does it acutally mean? If you check all the available images of the human skelleton you will quickly notice one thing: Our lower back is not really straight and not designed to carry a lot weight when it is put on the wrong way or direction. Noone with a sane mind would use a support beam shaped like that but the human body adapted to this problem caused by changing from using all four limbs to walking on just two legs. The muscles and tendons in our back work in such a way that they support the fragile construction of discs and bones that keep us upright. Sadly modern life, personal decisions and only too often a busy work shedule prevent us from using our body the wa we should. Be it too much lifting, being far too short for your weight or simply laziness the factors causing our muscle to degrade are too many to count. But once you are in the worst pain you ever felt and your doc tells you that there are damaged discs you suddenly wish you had it all done differently years ago - trust me, I have been there and I have done it ;) Or it might be like in my case that a healthy and fit person just cracks one or more discs for no obvious reason. Either way it means you have to change your life to be able to keep going. Pain killers help to ignore the problem and pretend all is good but they should be used with great care as most are highly addictive and the long term side effects are no fun either. The one thing you must never forget is although being a life sentence it must not mean you will be crippled forever! What can I do once it happened to help the pain and my sanity? Nerve pain is one of the worst pains there is and there are only two more or less working medications to deal with it. The first meds are opiates to literally numb the pain but due to source of the pain very high levels are required until the body adapted to deal with the wrong pain information. The second group of meds that offer help and that are often used together with pain killers are old sty anti depressants like the try-cyclic (was that right?) amitriptyline. Back in the days they were not really good for the advertised job but one of the common side effects was how they worked on the pain centers of the brain. In much lower dosages as used to treat depressions these meds help the brain to deal with the pain caused by the damaged or pinched nerves. As a long term solution they should be prefered over opiates so that the strong pain killers are only taken when really needed. If you are anything like me than not getting enough sleep over weeks on end will take a toll on your mood. So being able to sleep at least a few hours in one go is a real thing to aim for unless you prefer to harm your body with pain killers. What is there to help with the pain so you can sleep? I know that you now already think you tried it all and that nothing good comes out of here but keep reading as you might be surprised... The first thing that jumps into mind when it comes to sleeping is a bed - be it you by yourself or with a partner. And here also is the first point to improve! In many countries a bed for two persons has one bad feature: A single mattress! Any movement from the person next to you is transfered more or less onto your body - you don't want that! So if you own a big bid that you share with someone think about investing into a bed with seperated matresses and support frames. That brings us to the mattress itself. A lot of people think being soft and flexible is a prefered thing, not so much if you have back problems. You want enough support to keep the back straight without everything feeling like you sleep on wooden floorboards. Keep in mind though that when changing from soft matress to something much firmer you will need to adjust. Really the best option is to seek professional advise in a bedding studio or similar. And no, you don't have to go to the most expensive place to buy a mattress, you just try them out, get expert advise and use that new knowledge to find a suitable mattress to fit the budget. With no offence meant: If you are over the normal weight you really want to loose the excess and that means selecting a new matrress on your weight goal and not on your current weight! It is also good to have adjustable supports under the mattress itself, this way you choose a thinner and bit softer mattress but still get the firmness your back requires - again seeking proffessional advise on the right combinations is highly recommended here! Ok, your bed is sorted but still there is that nagging pain in certain positions or the tingling in your leg preventing you to go to sleep. Believe it or not but what you do before you go to bed affects how you feel when you hit the sack. So sitting like a bag full of water in front of your TV until just manage to crawl into bed won't do you any good. Same for having your dinner and hour or two before bedtime... What does help is to move your body and to burn a few kalories! If it helps you use a weight lifting belt but just a walk around the block with a little bit of bending and flexing will get the tension out of muscles. A nice partner giving you a proper massage might help too but I doubt you will get one every night ;) And before you start to complain: Yes, I know there are times where simply can't do any exersise as you will be happy to make it to the toilet or to make some dinner. For those times and especially during times of experiencing higher than normal pain level ther is something you can do to ease the pain. Some doctors will tell you but a lot of them wont: Cold actually helps to numb the pain and the symptoms like tingling, pins and needles or the constant stabbing when you made a slightly wrong move. But you need to apply the cold in the right way to get the benefit! The key here is timing. Using real ice in a suitable wrapper, so no vegetables or meat, you apply the cold where the damage is - not where the pain is! You want to cool down the area around the damaged discs for about 5 to max 10 minutes. Put the icepack back and repeat every hour! Nothing will happen after the first two or three round but then you will notice improvement - how much depends on the individual and extend of the damage of course. When I have bad days I usually start around mid-day and keep going every hour until either the pain is gone or it is time to drag myself to bed. The worst you can do is o apply heat! A warm (not hot!) bath can help to ease some muscular tension but hot packs or heat lamps will make your pain get worse quickly. Just imagine and inflammation somehwere else, the area is already hot and painful so you really don't want to add more heat, do you? ;) What can be done to keep mobile and improve? As said earlier the key is support for the damaged areas and of course a limitation in movements that put additional stress on the damaged dics - this includes weight, be it from your own body in terms of excess fat or simply be lifting things! You will have times of no pain and where you think you are 20 years younger again but never use that as an excuse to think your discs have improved! Once damaged they stay damaged and everything putting more stress on you dsic(s) will make things worse. A friend of mine loves to play golf - if you have back problems you want to find a different hobby! Coming from three digits I can tell you without being offensive in any way that being fat means having problems that you don't want to add to your list caused by a bad back! So like it or not you really need to loose all the excess you can find wobbling around your body! For me every single kg I lost was a step forward to being more fit and being able to more things for longer before my pain got too much. And no, there is no excuse for keeping those kilos if are able to leave the bed for more than a few hours. Turst me, you will feel better, need far less medication and like yourself much better once the benfits of less weight kick in! Exercise is the key to getting your life back to a more or less normal level! If you are a "first offender" than you have a good chance that a change of habbit and maybe job will make sure it stays a single incident and that you can have a pain free life after the initial recovery! Getting a higher core strenght and overall fitness level helps your body to heal but most importantly gives you the option to gain muscles where needed to support your back. You might think there is nothing you can do if you are in pain and can't really move anyway but if you do then you are wrong. I am not a personal trainer but I found a lot of ways to use my muscles without using my back for it... There is enough info on the web for exercise methods without any training gear and if you think "really hard" you might notice you can use a lot of positions to exercise your arms and legs without stressing you back ;) And even for the back you can do good without damage: If you lay flat on your belly you just slightly lift your arms and legs off the ground - this will need the support of the muscles in lower back! No need to actuall lift anything high, just enough to only slightly bend your back up - you might not even notice any bending at all. What you don't want is exercise like running, jogging or even contact sports, really nothing that might force your back to move more than what is possible without stressing your discs... Better fitness and more strenght means you will get better flexibility and movablity but never let that fool you into thinking the damage is gone! I can not stress enough than even if you don't need medication and feel fine a single wrong move can make all null and void! What are the options if despite loosing weight and excercise my pain is not going away or syptoms get worse? Well, we can ignore it, we can hope it all goes away but the sad reality for most is that sooner or later you reach the point where the damage is too much too handle. The first one to tell you that your lower back is now due for a pit stop is your foot. The pain might be more than what you ever experienced the pins and needles might drive you mad but as long as it just that you are fine, really :( For me it was during some light gradening when I got my "first hit" so to say. I brushed it off thinking I tripped over something that got kicked away while I struggled to keep my balance. A few days later I noticed that I had to put some extra efford to prevent my toes from scraping the floor while walking. It was there when I also realised that most of the feeling on top of my foot was gone. Same story for the outside of my calf by the way... For me, thanks to a non working medical system and no private health cover the story ends here... Since you might have more luck: Modern medicine has gone a long way when it comes to minimal invasive operations and they are the key to performing operations that otherwise would be impossible or require months of recovery. For the "treatment" of damaged discs in the lowest part of the spinal area the old conventional treatment was to fuse the bones together using some steel or titanium rods. To give the patient relief the dmaged disc was more or less mutilated to free the damaged nerve(s). Several weeks of bed rest and great loss in movement was the price to pay for less pain. Today we are much further and can use micro instruments to perform operations deemed impossible only a few years ago. One of the operations with the greatest and fastest recovery rates is actually quite smart if you think about it: A small portion of bone is removed to give more room for the nerve and to aid in the healing - without fusing the bones! The next step is remove the part of the disc that is bulging out - without removing the strong support layers around it, only the mashed up bits are taken away. The patient is literally pain free ( from the back pain) right after the operation. Healing takes about 2-3 weeks but by then even the pain from the cut bones will be gone. Some health insurers see these operations as a means to get a person back to work and into a normal life, so they support it. Others use simple math and decide pain killers are cheaper... In any case you should seek professional advice from your doc and health care provider before it is too late! Diagnosed and operated early can mean you get the option to have an almost normal life again, or at least a few years of being able to enjoy life much more than before the operation. There are of course risks involved and an opration might not be an option for every case but knowing your options and what form of treatment might be available for you can be reall life changing... Ok, but what's the worst that can happen to me if a simple operation is no longer an option? One of the first things you will notice after loosing control and feeling for your foot is a more or less contant need to go the toilet. Despite having an empty bladder or just using the toilet minutes ago you can develop the feeling that you really must go the toilet again. Sadly this is only the beginning... If things get worse you can loose control over your bladder and bowel. Simply put it means you no longer control the muscular tension required to keep you vital openings closed when required. Usually at this point your doctor will recommend to operate one way or the other. For you, if affected, this means you have to decide between the risk of an operation that might only last for a few months or years or wearing adult nappies... If you already had one or more operation or the damage to the disc(s) is too severe it can mean that there is no other option but to fuse the bones into place to prevent further damage and allow for some healing. But trust me, for your doc to even consider an operation you need to loose all the weight you can! What are my limitations after having my back bones fused together? Well, as it reads you will be fused together, meaning you level of movement will be severly limited. It also means you beep all the time at the airport security or when entering a court or other place with metal detectors - but that is the least of the worries I guess... The main problem after such operations is getting back to a life as normal as possible. You get a lot of help in rehab and will learn what you can and can't do, plus of course how to keep you fit despite these limits. Some people cope really good with the new limitations but others struggle a lot. This especially true if before the person was really active and doing a lot in terms of sport and outdoor activities. Learning to adapt to the changes allows you have many more years without too much pain or limitations. Sure, Golf is out of the question, playing soccer or riding a normal bike too but life goes on and being a part of it is always better than just looking at it through your bedroom window ;) In any case giving up should not be an option for you! No matter how bad it looks when the pain is too much, there are always more good days than bad days ahead of you! Go ahead, share your experience with back pain, what you do keep going and handle the pain. Share you information about what treatments helped you the most and share how you recovered to where you are now. Be an inspiration for those facing what we already went through! Real back pain based on nerve damage will only be understood by someone who experienced it - what did you do to make the people around you understand it? Whatever helped you might help someone wha just started to learn how to deal with damaged discs and back pain, so sharing is caring! ;)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply

Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply