Can a plasma speaker be configuredf to be able to generate realy deep base?
Question by jcmcf57 | last reply
I have a pair of vintage AR-4 speakers but one of the woofers is not working. Any ideas on how I might diagnose and repair the problem?
Question by xtian5 | last reply
My ibm comp spoilt its internal speaker. i think due to its high out power(its so loud). i use the same output to feed the sub woofer. i wondered if the high output will spoil it
Question by mauricewarebee | last reply
I have a spare logitech g51 speaker system and want to use the subwoofer in my car instead of purchasing an entire car designed subwoofer, box, amp, wires, crossovers, etc., etc.
Question by shhsahsim | last reply
An emergency siren that alerts drivers by making their vehicles vibrate is being tested by doctors in Hampshire, England.The Howler is being used by BASICS Hampshire, a charity made up of 20 volunteer medics who attend about 750 road traffic accidents every year. The Howler sends out low bass sound that makes the car in front "shake".Dr Rob Dawes, a volunteer doctor whose full-time job is as an hospital anaesthetist and military doctor, said people get out of the way quicker when the device is used.He said: "The main problem is on the motorways where people can't hear the sirens or see you, because often they either don't look in the mirrors or they've got the radio on quite loud."What this new siren aims to do is, because they can't see you and they can't hear you, we hope that they'll be able to feel you." BBC Story.
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
I have a car amp with 4 speaker outlets(2L & 2R) can i connect just one woofer to it? if yes then what is the max limit of woofer specification? thanks in advance
Question by ursus thibetanus | last reply
Question by tiredawg | last reply
I decided to start my own project ---"a portable 2 way speaker with Bluetooth"--- but i have some doubts, if my woofer hit from 60hz to 10 kHz and my tweeter hit from 3.5 kHz to 20 kHz, what do you guys think my crossover should do its magic ? at 3.5 kHz or at 10 kHz ?? Or maybe any point from 3.5 kHz and 10 kHz is ok? or im wasting the woofer capabilities if i cut around 3.5khz when it can reach 10khz thanks beforehand
Question by javierj9 | last reply
I moved all my stereo equipment around a month ago or so. And I noticed that my speakers never sounded the same as before the move around. Today I got a little fed up with the shitty sound they had, and apon turning my balance on my mac to the left, the music sounds very tonal. It's not very bassy like my right speaker. If I turn it over to the right speaker it sounds normal, and shakes the room, but the left one does not vibrate my room worth 2 cents. I even switched the speakers around to see if it was my left channel on the amp, and it's not, it's the speaker. Anyone have any ideas why it sounds like this?? And yes, it was hooked up correctly, I did try switching the wires around, and it sounded worse, so yes it was connected correctly. These are technics twin woofer floor speakers, thought they were decent but my faith in them is very little right now. Thanks guys for anything you come up with.
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
Well, the question itself tells a lot (mostly how bad it's asked). I have a quad amplifier that i'm using as a stereo bridge. So is there a possibility to bridge those two (or parallel em?) This amplifier is not some factory made amp, It's a simple amp i made with TDA7375. The output is somewhere between 2x30 and 2x40W , but i'm only using one channel and it seems like a waste (I'm using it as a small woofer driver, didn't have another amp so this one had to do) So, The question is Is there a way i can make this Mono so i can get some more power out of it (or just use both channels so i don't only use one). The amp is TDA7375 and the speaker is Novex sps250i (yeah, it's crappy but sounds decent) Also it says nowhere that this one can be bridged to mono. Also won't it work if i parallel two channels and then bridge them to mono? (as in parallel four into two then bridge those) From what someone told me if i want to parallel it i'll need some 0.1ohm 5W resistors (those are really cheap and easy to find here) Thanks in advance.
Question by T0C | last reply
I'm looking for or to make a 100 watt amp, I can't seem to find any. If you know where i can find one online or a schematic to build one please let me know! Also is it possible to resist or lower the amps from an amplifier or will I have to specifically get a 30 watt amp for the mid range speaker. I am attempting an "led music box on steroids" project hahaha.... basically what I am going to do is make a clear plastic box and put leds and speakers and a 6" sub in it. Kinda bored and looking for a fun project and this came to mind. I'm open to any suggestions to make it better or ideas on how to power the speakers. Thank you in advance! The sub woofer I'm looking to power http://www.electronix.com/100-watt-woofer-speaker-ohm-p-13521.html and the mid range speaker http://www.electronix.com/30-watt-midrange-speaker-p-13507.html Might think about putting a tweeter in too
Topic by zcm87 | last reply
Last year had a lot of bad luck making my bike sound system. I made some boxes, fried some electronics, etc. The boxes were too big for easy handling, so I'll make another attempt, since spring is coming. I noticed the speaker (driver) did not like higher volumes; very large excursions in the lower Hz range , probably hitting the end of its moving range. It is a closed enclosure, no port. The RMS output of the amp is probably many times lower than the RMS rating of the speaker (driver); logitech 2.1 computer amp with consumer grade sub speaker (6"). Same problem occurs with my home 10" 60 W RMS driver in a closed ca. 70 l - ca.15 Gallon barrel, with a modest 25W RMS amp: I cannot even turn it halfway up: it is mounted horizontally, and shoots peas 40 cm (16") up! Would it be more helpful to make the box / barrel less square? Like halve the size by putting a diagonal separator in the box? Or is geometry irrelevant and does only volume matter? Perhaps there even might be a formula????
Question by BobS
I have a little problem.... i want to convert Left, Right channels into 3 channels, Left, Right, and Mono is it possible to build this with a couple diodes? Thanks in advance!
Topic by Sandisk1duo | last reply
I need help with a car subwoofer, i have a friend whos red wire went, and doesn't have a power antenna akak a blue wire. his red wire went, its a 2000 buick and the cars are notorious for that issue. i have it on a switch for the 12v and i have a jumper from the 12v to the remote so when the switch is flicked the remote and 12 v are powered. is there an alternative wire to connect the remote to besides the red or blue?
Question by slimguy379 | last reply
I want to add a sub woofer to my stereo system. The sub woofer is one made from spare parts. It consists of a twelve inch speaker wired directly to binding posts. My problem is that my amplifier only has four binding posts, these are a positive and negative for the left speakers and a positive and negative for the right speakers. I am not sure where to patch in my sub woofer. Thanks for any help
Question by nurdee1 | last reply
Question by jorjer | last reply
I found 4 speakers (2 subs about 5 inches diameter each and 2 tweets about 2 in diameter) in a TV that was left on the side of the road. I would like to make a speaker box for them, or a mini-amp for my electric cello. In either case, I have very little technical knowledge in this area, and will need some very clear instructions as to what I need. I took from the TV: 4 speakers (see above) Each speaker has a red and a black wire coming out the back of it (power cables presumably). The smaller speakers are connected to the larger ones by similar cables. There are also two more cables similar to the others, but one is white and black, the other green and black. These connected the larger subs to the main power of the TV I think. I also took the power chord from the TV. It has a connector that was joined to a plug inside the TV. The speakers say on the back: ZM YD150-B1-20W-8* for the larger speakers and ZM YDG70-A1-10W-8* for the smaller speakers * means the sign for ohms (my rather dusty chemistry knowledge from high school tells me this, I could be wrong, it's the omega sign from the Greek alphabet anyway) That's all I think. I would like to know what I will need to make these speakers work, and if it is worth my while and not too expensive, and whether or not I will kill myself in the process. I have never done this kind of project, but have always fancied the notion. If anyone can help out, or even start me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it. Is there anything else I should take from the TV while it is there still? Like the line-in plugs etc?
Question by liammusicquestion | last reply
I have a powered sub-woofer that had a blown speaker and being that I spent the money to get a better one I thought that converting the old sub woofer amp to use for my guitar would be a good idea. I already have something to practice with but making something that can be used for gigs would be great. However, I'm not an avid or experienced electronic wizard and will need the help to complete this project. Here is the info I have on the amp itself; OUTPUT POWER 50W (4 ohms,DIN) THD 10% @ 55Hz Reproduction Freq. Response 45Hz - 150Hz Phase Switch 0, 180 degrees Input Sensitivity (Sub In) 460 mVrms AC Power 120V/60Hz Power Consumption 70W (at 1/8 rated power) Standby Power Consumption <6W What I do know that I need is a 1/4" mono plug jack and being that the input for the woofer is mono putting that in shouldn't be a problem. I'm mostly concerned about the frequencies that the amp will handle for playing a guitar and speaker recommendations. Plus any other opinions will be appreciated. I am expecting this to be a clean sounding amp and as it sits will only provide volume. An EQ is planned to be used after this amp is put together and then eventually an overdrive. I'm planning on connecting 2 50W speakers and wondering if I should hook them up in serial or parallel. With the help of my fellow instructabl-ians I will be able to post my 1st submission.
Question by 95sprtcpedrvr | last reply
I have a Phillips SW 900 powered sub-woofer. The internal amplifier board has broken and I need to get a new board or an equivalent amplifier. The internal subwoofer is a 6 inch 4 ohm 40w driver.I don't want to spend any more than around 50 US dollars. The only connection that I need is one RCA jack for audio input. Thanks.
Question by nurdee1 | last reply
Question by MadGuitarist | last reply
First off, this is a question about speakers sound quality loudness and all that stuff, it doesn't really have to do with any math or equations, just experience. So I want some sub woofers, and after looking around I have determined that there are cheap ones, and very expensive ones. Now, if I get a fairly affordable 15" (med quality) will it be louder/better than a 12" one that costs $900
Question by jj.inc | last reply
I recently bought a SPX audio system from pep boys.. yes i am aware that they aren't that good. but for what they cost, what i listen to, and what i want these will work fine. BUT.. they have a low and a high input. i just fed over 15 ft of 5 wire usb wire to connect the special adapter. i was just curios if anybody has messed around with this, or have used these speakers in general?, any info. would be greatly appreciated. thanks :)
Question by slimguy379 | last reply
I'm positive I have seen a diagram online to wire a woofer driver with dual 4 Ohm voice coils as a 4 Ohm load, instead of a 2 or 8 Ohm load. It was some combo of series and parallel connections, exiting to a single channel amp. Does anyone have this information?
Question by MarioL111 | last reply
I'm not sure you'll be able to answer this. I was hoping to put one massive woofer (15") and send all low frequencies to it, and then put in two tweeters, hoping that it would somehow overcome the most likely overpowering bass. Is this a viable setup? Ideally, I plan on building these speakers for parties, where I just throw this in the car, drive there, and we're ready to go, don't need to deal with tiny crap speakers anymore. So, ideally, I want to create stereo sound on my tweeters, but just let it go for the woofer, since bass would obviously have no need for stereo. Would I need two crossovers, or just one? In my head, I imagine that I only need one crossover, followed by a stereo amp for the tweeters and a mono amp for the sub. I'm not 100% sure on that circuit though.I plan on using these parts:woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-340tweeters: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name;=296-24635-1-NDwoofer amp: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name;=296-24635-1-NDtweeter amp: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name;=296-18033-5-NDSo, with that in mind, I'd love your help. Other Miscellaneous Curiosities:1) If you have any links as to where I can figure out the most audio efficient layout in order to achieve the best sound with this, that'd be a help too.2) Do I need a mid to help beat the woofer?3) In order to figure out the required power from the supply, I just need to add the max possible wattage from all the drivers, right?Thank you, Instructibles community.
Question by headinmysights | last reply
How to keep it on the floor? Close to a wall? How to adjust equalizer for the best bass and treble response ? How can I assume that I'm listening to good quality sounds(music) ? Thanx a lot.
Question by Jagath | last reply
My supplies A Tweeter with a frequency response of 20 KHz ~ 40 KHz, 8Ohms, 75Watts RMS/3000Watts Max, and Sensitivity of 105dB. A 4” Subwoofer with frequency response of 25Hz ~ 160Hz, 4Ohms and 25 Watts RMS Two 4” Full Range Speakers of 4Ohms and 5 Watt RMS Is the schematic mentioned in the pic is a suitable xover for my system please clear the nearest values to me
Question by subhamsingh236 | last reply
My supplies A Tweeter with a frequency response of 20 KHz ~ 40 KHz, 8Ohms, 75Watts RMS/3000Watts Max, and Sensitivity of 105dB. A 4” Subwoofer with frequency response of 25Hz ~ 160Hz, 4Ohms and 25 Watts RMS Two 4” Full Range Speakers of 4Ohms and 5 Watt RMS Is the schematic mentioned in the pic is a suitable xover for my system please clear the nearest values to me Thanks in Advance
Question by adarshnarsaria | last reply
Would the pressure damage the speakers or help them return to the neutral state? Would a port help? I'm building a new box for my car since the one I have is too big. It was dynamite in my van but alas, she won't be paving the road of adventure for much longer. I like to listen to a variety of metal with double kick drums and/or intricate bass work so I'm thinking four 8" or two 10" speakers. Right now I have a 12" JL that drowns out all of the music or just sounds bland when I tweak the amp to pick up the bass work.
Question by OpieJoe | last reply
My car has enough speakers. My room has enough speakers. My wallet has enough speakers. And I don't know what to do with all these speakers. I have 10 mid range speakers, 2 tweeters, 2 sub-woofers, and 14 headphone speakers. Now I'm not really concerned with the headphone speakers because they're cheap and if they just sit in a bag for a while I'm fine with that but I'd like to put the nicer speakers to work. I don't want a surround sound system for my living room and I already have speakers there (not surround sound). I made the credit card speaker instructable. I'd like to do something with the speakers but at this point I'm thinking about just scraping them for their neodymium magnets because I can't think of what else to do with them.
Question by cdubnbird | last reply
I want a very deep Bass as i am getting in my logitech z103...(image attached) I am plannin' to build a sealed 10" cube outta 0.5" thick Plywood and put in em two 4" subwoofer drivers. will i be getting the thing i want???? if not what should be the dimensions???? THnaks in advance!!!
Question by adarshnarsaria | last reply
And yes,Tell me what it does. I have never seen such a thing,It came from some speaker box that had knobs to controll the tweeter and woofer(it was in the trash) Edit:Also The woofer and mid speakers where blown I could have taken the speaker,for its coil but i did not.
Question by ReCreate | last reply
I have 2 units of 4" woofers of 4 Ohms and 25 watt RMS with a frequency response of 40Hz ~ 170Hz 2 Units of 3'' loudspeakers 4 Ohms and 10 Watts RMS with a frequency response of 160Hz ~ 20Khz and these tweeters Can I make a 3way Speakers with these supplies and if yes please send me the crossover and L Pad schematics. Thanks In Advance
Question by adarshnarsaria | last reply
I am on my way to build 3 way speaker system and this my first time. I heard that i have to make crossover into the speakers which will drive the low frequencies to the woofer and mid ranger whereas the low pitch to the woofer. I went to a site that calculates schematics for any sort of crossovers. But they ask me the several things out of them i understood some of them while others made my mind disrupted. so please state the meaning of the following: High Xover Frequency ( fh ) Low Xover Frequency ( fl ) Frequency Spread ( fh/fl ) here there were 2 options I.E, 8:3 octaves and 10:3.4 octaves Bandpass Gain ( g ) Crossover Type In the last one there were several options: 1st Order normal polarity 2nd order reverse polarity 3rd order reverse polarity 3rd order normal polarity 4th order normal polarity What are the differences between these crossovers? Which one is the best and why? If nothing is best so what is the difference? Sorry I am a novice. So guys please be easy on me.... Thanks In Advance :-)
Question by adarshnarsaria | last reply
I have a 5.1 computer speaker system and the amp is in the Sub enclosure. There are no buttons on the Sub and can only be controlled via IR remote control. The remote has stopped working and everytime the Sub is switched off the volume and bass levels are reset. Is there any way I can increase the volume from the receiver or even keep the volume and bass at its max that way I can control it from the PC instead? The remote only has a power button, volume up and down and bass increase and decrease. Ive checked the remote by pointing it a a digital camera and its not working at all.
Question by kokaine | last reply
I have purchased a local brand sub-woofer which does not comes with any specifications except the following: Impedance: 4 Ohms Output RMS:20 Watts Frequency Response: 40Hz~170Hz Effective Cone Diameter(D): 4" However i wanted to know the following Equivalent Volume(Vas) Free Air Resonance (Fs) Total Q (Qts) Actual System Q (Qtc) Resonance Frequency (Fb) Is there is any way to determine these Thanks in Advance....
Question by adarshnarsaria | last reply
Well i want to know what type of home amplifier i could choose and buy that i could hook up a car sub woofer and then i could mess with the frequencies so i could get that boomy bass in my home and have 2 speakers on the side. i have tried finding such thing but im not sure if this one is good and could give the two sub speakers enough power to give it those awesome vibrations. the link to this amp ishttp://www.amazon.com/Dayton-APA150-150W-Power-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO/ref=sr_1_21?s=aht&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1293251962&sr;=1-21
Question by diabloboy | last reply
Over the Christmas holiday I would like to utilize two tweeters that I obtained from computer speakers and a subwoofer that I obtained from a surround sound system to use in a portable battery powered boom box. The goal is to makee the whole setup rechargeable (thought about solar panels also, but baby steps) with a usb slot (power only) to charge ipods/iphones and a single aux cable. I have been experimenting with each of the speakers and I have an idea of what size of box I am going to have to produce the best sound, tips on this would be welcomed as well. Strong deep bass is a major goal of the boom box as well. Physical volume controls are not need. The only button I assume would be for the power. Any tips or suggestions are welcomed.
Question by ckrupala | last reply
How can i remove the little disk of metal mesh from the center of my plastic speaker grilles without splitting or badly damaging the plastic? I have component speakers for my project as thats all i could source, but for lack of space i want to effectively convert them back to coaxial by removing the mesh disk and mounting the tweeters in the resulting hole. EDIT: finally got to a computer where i could add images. In the meantime i decided the best way to solve my dilemma was attacking it with a dremel (clearly the safest option... ¬¬), against all odds this has appeared to have worked though...
Question by ambientvoid | last reply
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with an aftermarket Jensen VM9512 in-dash DVD receiver. Can I hook up my subwoofer (Sony SA-W2500) to the receiver and use it successfully? I don't want to buy another sub. What I have to work with is a long enough cable to connect the sub and the receiver and a 12-volt DC - AC inverter. I'm not sure if the 12-volt plug in the back of my Jeep is turned on and off with the ignition or not, but the subwoofer has an automatic on and off mode and the power inverter is just ether on or off. Help? :]
Question by mooseman93 | last reply
Building a powered sub woofer. Enclosure and mounting comes along fine, in 2 days I'll get a 100 W RMS Velleman kit. I will only connect it to the sound card, and sometimes to an MP3 player, in which case I will split the signal in 1 or 2 stereo plus one bass channel. I have noticed very different volume levels in the bass register of various recordings, sometimes even damaging (to my other, portable bike sub woofer). The new, yet to build amp is even more overrated in respect to all the other, separately amplified sound system components--- So I need a volume control potmeter before the amp. What is the range this potentiometer should have? (right now, I plug it in the CD RCA input of another amp)
Question by BobS | last reply
Okay, so I had decided to build a sub-woofer for a speech topic for school, and I was wondering what it was that made speakers, or sub-woofers so loud an efficient. Granted, I know mine is far from great, while being made from ply-wood, duct-tape, and everything, but why is it that professionally manufactured speakers are so loud by them-selves with minimal power? I am using the circuits from my Logitech X-240 system, and the sub-woofer is always way louder than that of my home-made speaekr, with a significantly smaller ceramic magnet, it seems. Is it the geometry of the speaker itself, or what? What do manufacturers do in construction which improves the sound, or quality of speakers, and would using a neodymium magnet be better than using ceramic magnets? Any help is appreciated, and thank you in advance.
Question by XP1 | last reply
All that I know is that the radio doesnt even light up and stopped working after i put a signal conferter on the out put lines to connect a subwoofer. i connected it exactly how the instructions told me to do
Question by fastcar123 | last reply
Hi,I have 2, 10 Inch JBL speakers from an old music system. I dont have a photo right now, i will post i later. i am not sure if its a woofer or a speaker coz it have 2 magnets below. one over another and inside there is also a small speaker in the box. So i got 2 big speaker(or woofer) and a 4 inch woofer driver from a jvc multimedia system.I am kind of an audiophile and i want help to build a good boomboX with whatever i got. i am familiar with wiring and soldering and that kinda stuff. but i dont have anything to fabricate any circuit boards. So pls suggest me parts with low cost and those which can be bought inside India. I also have a bunch of 3.7 V rechargeable batteries from powerbanks and rc helicopters. But dont have a way to recharge them or use it for a regulated supply
Question by Syst3mburn3r.
Specifically when dealing with smaller, less powerful speaker. I am aware that certain sub woofers require venting, but I don't know how important sealed boxes are for midrange and tweeter.
Question by Andale_The_Great | last reply