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Emp jammer is not working Answered

I built a EMP Jammer from a bug zapper it creates a spark but there is no interference with cell phone calculator or light bulbs I use a 12 gauge copper wire I need help as to what can be the problem

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Orngrimm
Orngrimm

19 days ago

Spark = high Voltage
EMP = Electro Magnetic Pulse = Magnetic = Currentflow in a conductor.

True, you need voltage for currentflow, but your little flyback-circuit will have in the range of a few milliamps of current. anything higher than 1-5mA will be deadly in a fly-swatter for sure!

You need many HUNDRED amps for any effect to start. So enlist in your scholls high power electronics class and start designing a ultra high current pulse-Schematic.

In my field of work, we have to test our (medical) devices against ESD and EMI (EMP and EMS). And we go to over 400A/m with no effect on a normal battery-powered product. Let that sink in: Your normal US fuses (As far as google could tell me) are 15 Amps. So: Imagine the full power of about 27 outlets worth thru a wire... In high Frequency and super clear and sharp art5iculated edges in signal... And still nothing happens...
Yeah... <looking at the battery-pack on the swatter> ... No.
A Lightbulp as you are telling would be many magnitudes more difficult to influence, as you would need to induce more power than the grid can counter. Good luck with that.

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Jack A Lopez
Jack A Lopez

Reply 19 days ago

The "light bulb" might be a fluorescent lamp of some kind; e.g. a twisty, compact fluorescent lamp (CFL), or some other kind.

That is my guess, because fluorescent lamps can flicker in response to very tiny amounts of stray charge. Like from static electricity, e.g. the quantity produced by rubbing a balloon against the hair on one's head.

I dunno. I wish I could see the source material that inspired this build. Often it is a Youtube video. I could search for it myself I suppose...

Youtube has perverse incentives, in that videos that are totally fraudulent can get as many, or more, views than videos that are legit demonstrations. That is one reason why some YT physics demos can be so hard to reproduce.

Anyway, I think I have seen a CFL used as a crude electric field detector, in YT videos in the past, and that is part of what is making me think the author of this topic is referring to a fluorescent kind of "light bulb" rather than some other kind; e.g. incandescent.

1
Jack A Lopez
Jack A Lopez

19 days ago

I am curious to know if there is some particular recipe, tutorial, or YT video, or set of instructions you tried to follow.

If you feel up to it, you could edit this topic, to include a link to that tutorial. Just to help out the peeps who read this forum, like to, throw us some crumbs, or a bone to chew on.

I am guessing that board was pulled from one of these "tennis racket" style bug zappers.

One thing that looks like a problem to me, is the coil you made from 12 AWG copper wire. It looks to me like that wire is lacking insulation, and as a result, the coils are touching each other, so that you do not have as many turns as you think. That is to say, because the coils are shorted to each other, you have about 1 turn, when perhaps the recipe called for 5 or 10 turns.

Next thing is you say, "it creates a spark," but I am wondering, like, where?

Is one side of the coil not soldered, and there is supposed to be spark gap there? I am guessing that is the case.

I dunno. It is kind of hard to tell what you're doing here.

I mean, if the coil is solidly connected to that big red capacitor, essentially shorting it, with no spark, then this circuit is pretty much guaranteed NOT to work.

I expect the way this thing is supposed to work, is there is supposed to be an intentional spark gap, in series with the coil. Then the capacitor and the spark gap work together as a kind of relaxation oscillator.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relaxation_oscillato...

That is to say the capacitor spends a certain amount of time charging, with the voltage across the spark gap increasing, until the air in the gap reaches a breakdown condition. Then, snap! A spark occurs, which dumps the capacitor's charge through the output coil. Then the cycle starts over, with the capacitor charging again.

My point: The spark gap is probably important. Make that part easy to see and easy to adjust.

I guess that is two suggestions: (1) use insulated wire for the coil, so the turns do not touch each other, and (2) put in a spark gap that looks like a spark gap; e.g. two short strands of wire, with sharp bends, almost touching, like this: ____> <____

Those are my suggestions for your circuit. I think there is room for improvement in your communication skills as well. For that I suggest (1) including links to your sources, and (2) using punctuation marks in your prose, so the sentences don't run on and on.

I am sure your phone has a way to type periods "." and commas ",".

;-)