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Help with PWM dimmer? Answered

Ello mates,so i biult a pwm dimmer acording to  https://www.instructables.com/id/PWM-dimmer-using-NE555-and-MOSFET-with-DIY-alumini/ but its kinda different,i used irf530n and ne555p ic,
And when i connected all of the components with a 12v source it happens nothing except that little spark comes on gnd with adapter?
Help please ? 

Discussions

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iceng

2 years ago

What are you kind of light are you dimming ? some will not dim.

As far a mosfets did you notice the ible lists an IRFP510 BUT the schematic is an IRF530 all begin conduction at VGS = 4.5V including your IRF530n..

They are all 100v and different currents..

The mosfet has no bearing on the operation of the dimmer, neither is the version of the 555...

I think the dimmer schematic in the ible is Wrong click on this one to see the whole image.

Mosfet Dimmer.GIF
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JohnSmith-Workshopiceng

Answer 2 years ago

How much current can support pwm dimmer or ne 555 so it doesnt get fried?

Can i put a 12v 2.5A source on input channels ?

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JohnSmith-Workshopiceng

Answer 2 years ago

so your saying that i have wrong components,oh well lol.
But what do you think about this one:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-555-PWM/

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steveastroukJohnSmith-Workshop

Answer 2 years ago

No, he's saying the parts you have have "no bearing" on the problem, which means they aren't the problem. Iceng thinks the schematic is wrong.

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JohnSmith-Workshopiceng

Answer 2 years ago

wiring eror ? okay? but i follow the schematic and nothing,can you tell me mate were am i wrong ?

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-max-steveastrouk

Answer 2 years ago

The schematic is most likely fine, tested it in LTspice.

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iceng-max-

Answer 2 years ago

I used my ckt to run a Lionel train to slowly creep into a station.

I trust working hardware more then LITTLE Spice..

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-max-

2 years ago

A) Check your MOSFET, make sure it's working properly. There should be no continuity between gate and any other pin. You should be able to control a load with the transistor no problem.

B) Check the 555 timer, wire it up in astable configuration (google) but set it to a lower audible frequency (555 calculator for R1 R2 and C1) and connect a capacitor in series with the output (47uF or whatever) to a speaker or headphone and try to hear squeel, buzz, or series of clicks (depending on the frequency set)

C) rewire it the way the schematic shows and try again. Make sure you are using the correct value components, the diodes are connected the right way, having an oscilloscope or at the very least a multimeter helps a lot.