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How does one replace cuisinart motor shaft sheath? Answered

I was given a friend's grandmother's  dlc-7 Cuisinart.  The old sheath has the upper half of the side without metal underneath broken off. The plastic is super brittle.  I've gotten a replacement part.  It looks as though the old one should slide off and the new one slide on.  It's not working out that way.

We've cleaned off the corrosion on the shaft that's exposed and cleaned up the plastic with paint thinner.  Pulling on the sheath hasn't  worked.  I've considered super gluing the broken piece back on, but would really like to install the new sheath.



1 year ago

If it is stuck, you can put a large monkey wrench on vertical Vise Grip's tightening bolt and hit up on the wrench with a hammer.


4 years ago

rhendrickx, thank you for posting this information. I have the same model of Cuisinart that you have, and your guidance for replacing the sleeve/shaft/whatever was VERY useful. Again, thank you.



6 years ago

Use vise grips to hold plastic shaft. Tap upward it comes right off
no need to cut it off.


9 years ago

The replacement is a push-fit?
You need to hack the old one off the shaft I think - and you'd know best there - what tools do you have?



Answer 7 years ago

I just had the same problem,, thanks to the post that had the instructions to drive the new post on with a rubber mallet and piece of wood. It's a tight fir because the plastic sheath has to slide over a knurelled steel shaft, I don't know about warming the plastic up. I used a rubber hammer and a piece of maple and tapped firmly but no too hard. Of course you need to line up the plastic pieces inside the sheath with the flat side of the shaft to get things started, but this is easily done by rotating the sheath on the shaft and it will drop down to start the nest process of hammering it into place.


8 years ago

I have a DLC7pro from around 1982. I too ordered a new part (twice)- the first one came without instructions. I thought i had removed all of the old shealth but mistakenly left a small ring of plastic near the base that the metal ring fit over - But this was a mistake! The new sheath has it's own "ring" inside the metal ring. When I tried to put it on, the new sheath pushed the old ring down and got caught so that the new sheath could NOT go all the way down.

I ordered a new shealth from another company (I think it is Cuisinart repair.com) Their's does come with instructions but they are not exactly clear.

To remove the sheath this time I use a small pipe cutter and took the sheath off in approximately one in sections. Once the circular cut was complete I used a plier to pull off the section. - This method worked GREAT! Be sure you get all the white plastic off! You will see that a metal shaft has a flat side.

When you look at the replacement sheath, you will notice flat sides on the outside of the sheath. If you look inside the sheath, you will see two "nubs" . Unfortunatley these nubs do NOT line up with the flat outside sections.

The instructions refer to lining up the "flat side with the flat side" but this is not helpful - which flat side do they mean - the inside or outside of the shaft cover?
It seems to make sense that the 2 nubs inside the sheath have to line up with the flat side of the shaft. So that is what I lined up - the center of the sheath's 2 inner nubs with the center of the flat side of the metal shaft. Again the sheath is stuck! I pushed down as hard as I could with my hands, then swithced to a rubber mallet and peice of wood as described on the instructions.

Today is Chrismtas eve so I will have to wait until next week to call the company and ask what I did wrong this time!


Answer 8 years ago

Ok -to follow up from my notes a few days ago, I called CusinartRepair.com They confirmed that I did in fact line up the shaft and sheath correctly - that is, the 2 nubs on the inside of the sheath that form a "flat" side is to be lined up with the flat side of the metal shaft. Tip: mark the sheath and the base of the shaft with a sharpie marker so you are certain to stay lined up. Push it on as far as it will go with your hand, it shoud go to within about and inch or so of the base.

There is a plastic collar inside the metal base of the shaft - that collar is what grips onto the crisscross base of the metal shaft - this collar is what is "getting stuck" - but it is suppose to!

Know come the hammer part - I thought we were hitting it hard enough but we weren't! You need to really pound on it - like brute force! We switched the wood so that the narrow side of the 2 x 4 is against the top of the shaft - then strike it with the hammer for all you're worth! It will take probably 3 or 4 good hits to get it far enough down. If the base of the sheath rubs on the bottom of your workbowl - they will fuse together, so be sure the sheath is seated as far down as you can get it.

The person at the cuinartrepair.com thought we had hammered it enough and had offered us a replacement shealth -if we really wanted to try again, or a replacement base minus the cost of the sheath. I hated to give up on this machine- it has been amazing and the motor still runs like a charm. Even the guy I spoke to said my 1982 model is probably better than anything new on the market today, so I figured we had nothing to lose by really hammering away at it, sure enough the new sheath is on and it still runs beautifully. Good luck with yours!


9 years ago

It looks like a push fit.  The metal cylinder at the bottom goes about half way up inside the walls of the sheath. It's covered by the plastic inside as well as outside.  The cylinder doesn't have a flat spot for a set screw or anything.

I was wondering if heating the remaining sheath would make the whole thing looser or tighter. (I don't have a heat gun and have never used one.) Would any manufacturer use a 'heat and push on' method?

No power tools. Have a hacksaw and plastic pipe cutter, utility knife, sandpaper, pliers...