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Trying to make a black light mirror the magnitude of speakers Answered

Trying to make a black light mirror the magnitude of speakers, not just on or off if the sound is loud enough, I'm trying to make it get brighter and dimmer as the music gets louder and softer. Help please? I can't find anything online that would be variable, all I can find is guides for LEDs, which are much lower power than anything I'd like to use, and guides for modules that simply switch on or off like the clapper. Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated


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Quercus austrina
Quercus austrina

Best Answer 10 years ago

Do a search for Color Organ. These old school units will flash, at varing intensities, a light to the beat of the music. For black lights, you must use incandescent bulbs. Flourescent bulbs don't take kindly to dimming.



Answer 10 years ago

Note that incandescent black-light bulbs are very inefficient.

Another possibility: There are strobe lamps based on fluorescent bulbs. They aren't as sharp a flash as a xenon tube, of course, but they do work... and they would work just fine with a black-light tube. If you can tolerate flickering, a circuit based on these which varies its on/off duty cycle based on the strength of the input might be an interesting effect... though it will probably have to flash occasionally even in silence just to keep the bulb ionized.

You might just hook the strobe to the lowest frequencies and essentially have it trigger off the bass line, one flash per thump.

Or, with some clever design, you could probably work your way from full down to half-brightness or lower without much visible flickering (cutting out every other cycle, and scattering those deletions pseudorandomly through whatever number of cycles you're keeping count over).

The simple strobe isn't complicated; schematics can be found. The bass trigger would be more so, the audio-controlled dimmer more so yet; those two would require doing some circuit design.

Standard reminder: SAFETY FIRST. When controlling high voltage from low voltage, make sure the former can't get back to the latter. I've gotten zapped by 110VAC often enough by shoddily made prototypes -- but I've been careful and I've been lucky, and I emphatically recommend protecting others. If you don't know, make sure there's an optoisolator between the circuits and/or get help.