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Whats the best type of paint to use for steel? Answered

Okay, so I am currently in the process of starting to make a .380 machine pistol. So far, I have cutted out the tubing for the lower reciver. Right now I'm thinking of way of coloring it. I've read that some people heat it up with a blowtorch to color it, however, it turns to blue,purple,and brown, not the black or a nice gun blue as i'm hoping it to be. So now I'm thinking of buying black spray paint, but I have no idea whether the color would rub off after a while or if it might become too shiny. Any suggestions on whats the best kind of paint (brand,type,etc.) for this type of thing? All because I want to make this as best looking as possible,or do you suppose it would look best if I kept it in it's natural steel color? P.S. What kind of sling do you think would look best? Denim Brown Leather or canvas that is dyed black?

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acidbass
acidbass

10 years ago

 car paint with a clear coat

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King of the wasteland
King of the wasteland

11 years ago

At the risk of sounding rediculous. Why not simply use gun blue? I make knives and my father Re-finishes firearms. We both use it for our day to day metal coloration. Some require heat. others don't.

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Lextone
Lextone

13 years ago

Go to an automotive supply store and get a can of engine primer and a can of flat black engine paint. Follow the instructions on the can. Engine paint is formulated for high temps. Its pretty tough stuff, but will wear with use, but so does Parkerizing . You can always touch it up, but a little wear looks cool. Make sure you tape off the inside of the slide or it will jam up on you. A short, single point, under shoulder sling would be cool. Or.....no sling and a thigh mounted tactical holster would be real bad ass....like Snake Plisken, Escape from New York-bad ass!!!! I'm curious....is this an open or closed bolt design?

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Loveofchaos
Loveofchaos

Reply 13 years ago

someones doing a little pa luty style lol

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Loveofchaos
Loveofchaos

Reply 13 years ago

how much of it do u have done?

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IlluminatedAntichrist
IlluminatedAntichrist

Reply 13 years ago

I'm done with this already, the only thing with it is that it empties the whole magazine extremely fast, it only takes about 2 or 3 seconds for all of the ammo from the magazine to be used up, I decided not to paint it though, I just kept it as it's natural metal appearance. When building this gun, I found that obtaining the tubing was the most difficult part of making it. Now, I'm trying to make my own designs.

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Charles IV
Charles IV

Reply 11 years ago

One way of decreasing the rate of fire is to add more mass to the bolt...

Just a quick suggestion

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Loveofchaos
Loveofchaos

Reply 13 years ago

would it be possible to make a drum clip for it? ps. i noticed your using the .380 one, would there be a way you could email me the .pdf as an attachment?

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IlluminatedAntichrist
IlluminatedAntichrist

Reply 13 years ago

"would there be a way you could email me the .pdf as an attachment?" Which pdf.? The Expedient Homemade Firearms Vol 1, 32/380 machine pistol?

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Loveofchaos
Loveofchaos

Reply 13 years ago

.32/.380

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IlluminatedAntichrist
IlluminatedAntichrist

Reply 13 years ago

I guess it would be possible,but making the drum magazine may be a bit of a challenge. :~)

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NachoMahma
NachoMahma

13 years ago

. BTW, excellent job! I'm impressed.

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coji
coji

Reply 12 years ago

Hi guys,I`m new to this site and it almost seems unreal what you guys can do. Actually, i`m very interested in being able to make a machine gun. The area I live is plagued with thieves, and although I have a shot gun, I don`t feel safe, and usually they have better weapons than even the police. Would you please give me some idea, sketch or something as a guide. I do know a guy that has a lathe and could probably be of help. it`s serious business to have a stranger make gun pieces for you, you know. Anyhow,nice to be here and hope ya can help some. thanks so much! COJI

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squid1230
squid1230

12 years ago

For my money I would recommend Parkerizing. Contrary to popular belief it is quite easy. Did it on a couple of "Bill Holmes" designs I made in my shop and it turned out great. The sloution is available on Ebay. You simply submerge the parts in a stainless (or ceramic) container over moderately low heat and when the parts stop bubbling the process is complete. Rinse in warm water. Parkerizing in itself simply makes a very porous durable finish - you must then fill the pores with some oil. I personally smeared vaseline, then warmed it in a toaster oven until the vaseline melted and went into the pores. When the gun cooled the vaseline solidified again and gave me a completely rust proof finish. Have yet to make a P.A Luty design as I am a little skeptical of it, however it is encouraging to find someone who actually did it!!! How do you find the accuracy with the non-rifled barrel? I suppose with a SMG it really doesn't matter.

Are you seriously making a homemade gun, not just kenex, you mean a real machine gun? All homemade? Sounds completly impossible.I think its impossible to make a homemade gun.

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NachoMahma
NachoMahma

Reply 13 years ago

> I think its impossible to make a homemade gun . It is very possible. The barrel is the hard part and it can be purchased fairly inexpensively. . > you mean a real machine gun? . Due to the added complexity and legal hassles of automatic fire, he probably meant semi-auto. . > BTW- Whats a sling? . A sling is just a strap, usually worn over the shoulder. Primarily for hands-free transport, but can be used to steady the weapon.

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Loveofchaos
Loveofchaos

Reply 13 years ago

actually, i believe the gun is fully automatic, thats how luty intended it to be. believe it or not, a full auto action is a lot more simple the semi auto.

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6Rea6per6
6Rea6per6

13 years ago

you should use a laker paint. it is used on lots of projects on metal. not sure if that is how you spell laker but ya. that works good. the only thing that takes it off is a laker based thiner. ya i saw that type of mp on a site somewhere. i think i have it saved somewhere. i also have one that is only a 9 mill. but that is pretty much what a .380 is but it is just a LIL different not by much i can give you the pdf file if you want.

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Loveofchaos
Loveofchaos

Reply 13 years ago

please do. ill pm you with email address if you would be willing to send it as an attachment. but first, is the one u built the one on free plans? because i have all of the free plans.

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Kiteman
Kiteman

Reply 13 years ago

It's "lacquer"

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Goodhart
Goodhart

Reply 13 years ago

Hmm, a Laker is a basketball player I think LOL

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Goodhart
Goodhart

13 years ago

If this is going to be painted where anything (shells, levers, etc) move over the surface, eventually it will chip/crack and cause jams. I would recommend the already mentioned "bluing" that protects well, with some maintenance (cleaning/oiling).

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6Rea6per6
6Rea6per6

13 years ago

sorry, i said i wasnt sure how it was spelled. but ya lacquer spray paint works. i used it on that metal box thing i made long time ago. and it looks like it did when i first made it. and the only thing that really takes it off is a lacquer base thiner.

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chuckr44
chuckr44

13 years ago

Are you making a machine pistol...out of that revolver on your bed? I'm intrigued.

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IlluminatedAntichrist
IlluminatedAntichrist

Reply 13 years ago

No, I'm making the machine gun completly from scratch, the other thing in the background just happens to be lying there. My bedroom was kind of a mess when I took this picture. :~)

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NachoMahma
NachoMahma

13 years ago

. I didn't notice the sling part of the question until Weallliveintheyellowsubmarine brought it up. . Whatever feels comfortable to you. You should be able to find something at just about any hunting goods or Army surplus store. You should be able to find webbing, buckles, clasps, etc at the stores mention or a WalMart type place. I suggest a dark, non-reflective coating on the hardware; something to match the coating on the gun.

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jtobako
jtobako

13 years ago

Paint is going to scratch very easily. There are older ways, gun browning, which-if done first-would hold color better. Gun browning consists of a very thin, even coat of rust (not always a dirty word) that is waxed or oiled to make a nice dark patina (think old muzzle-loaders). I've only read about it, but if you can't find the blueing easily, it's something to look into.

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NachoMahma
NachoMahma

Reply 13 years ago

. Neat! I've seen the oiled, brown finish, but didn't realize that was rust.
. How is the "rusting" controlled? Chemical bath like Parkerizing/blueing? When I search for browning it seems to be all about the gun manufacturer.

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jtobako
jtobako

Reply 13 years ago

Use "gun-browning" and add "rust" : ) Sorry, I forgot about the manufacturer with the same name : ( A little salt water or weak acid, leave it wet for a few/10 hours, buff with fine steel wool, repeat until even... Then rub it down with oil or wax. The rust gives the metal a bit of tooth to hold the oil/wax, the color cuts the shine. As always, TEST FIRST to make sure you know how it works for you.

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NachoMahma
NachoMahma

Reply 13 years ago

> Use "gun-browning" and add "rust" . That worked great. Thanks! . > Sorry, ... . I appreciate the sentiment, but my ignorance is not your fault. ;) I am now a little less ignorant than I was yesterday ... thanks to you.

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Vendigroth
Vendigroth

13 years ago

got to agree with NachoMahma about the gun bluiong solution, just make sure it's clean first, with not spots of rust or anything

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NachoMahma
NachoMahma

13 years ago

. For a durable matte finish, Parkerizing works well (think M-16), but requires some skills that the average DIYer may not have. Having it done commercially is probably more expensive than what you are looking for. I believe it is available in black, but not sure. . Blueing (it's not always blue) is durable and a little easier for the DIYer, but tends to be a rather glossy finish. A "low gloss" blueing might be acceptable. . You should be able to find a good paint that will do a decent job, though you may have to touch it up periodicly. . Whatever you do, surface prep is critical to a durable coating. Make sure all dirt/grease/oil/etc is removed (grit blasting works well, but sanding and a solvent wipe will usually do) and the finish (how polished/scratchy it is) is correct. If painting, use a good primer.