Question by shilst | last reply
how do i get my toilet to stop leaking? Wax ring has been replaced. Bowl is not cracked. Water still leaks through.
To clarify... the leak is between the bottom of the toilet and the floor....
Can anyone point me towards an instructable for fixing leaky pvc pipe? Thank you
Question by WendyleeGirbav | last reply
The pressure to the sink in the same bath is fine. What could be the problem for the reduced flow to the tub/shower but not the sink? I've tried changing shower heads but this didn't help?
Question by staceyjamesrn | last reply
Hi all, The metal casing connecting the shower head to the tap has come away. The rubber tubing is still in perfect condition, with no leaks. What sort of product could I use to rejoin the two pieces of metal? I've included a (lowres) picture to clarify things a bit. Many thnaks in advance! Jason
Question by inbox.jason | last reply
We are having a plumbing problem with the kitchen sink draining. The dishwasher ( for the most part) drains, but the kitchen sink does not. We have tried the regular drain cleaners with no success. Then on the Internet it said to try sulfuric acid. When he went to Lowe's to get the acid, the Lowe's man suggested another really good drain cleaner and we tried it, it was something that you put so much in for 3 days. It didn't work. Last night we tried the sulfuric acid, sink still not draining. Or I should say , it drains very very very slow, pretty much takes several hours to drain. He has also been up on the roof checking to see if there was a bird nest or something blocking the vent. He didn't find any obstruction. He used a plumbers snake and he could put it down through the vent until it reached water. However , the plumbers snake did come loose from the handle, and now it is in the vent. We don't know how to get it out, or if it will be a problem in the vent. ....and he did not take a hose up to the roof and run water into the vent. That is the only thing I see that we have not done yet. He has taken all the pipes apart under the sink and run the snake under there as far as he can, there is no clog under the sink that we can find. Those drain pipes are all put back together. The plumbing in the rest of the home all works properly.
Question by rocknlinda | last reply
We live in a house built in 1979, and the builder subbed a drain pipe in the basement concrete for a wet bar. They installed it far too close to the wall to build a bar, but too far from a wall to be useful in any way. We have enclosed it in a small room behind a fish tank, and we want to make a small utility sink to drain the tank. It doesn't have a water source, and it is awkwardly positioned in the room, even in this application. I was looking through a home improvement book and saw a photograph of a basement subbed for a bath and it showed a sink vent. Our drain most certainly doesn't have a vent. Is this an issue? Does every sink/drain need venting, or is it enough that (hopefully) the other drains in the house are vented?
Question by TheTinyTyrant | last reply
I am looking to build a sealed gravity dispenser similar to this one.... http://www.dudeiwantthat.com/household/bar/liquor-log-booze-dispenser.asp I'm trying to figure out the best route to take, I have a beer tap I will be using. My problem arises with running plumbing in a solid piece of wood without cutting it in half. I plan to use pvc and but that means I need a 90 degree angle in the block of wood or log. Is it possible? My best idea is to drill my holes and cut a chunk out of the back that can be glued back. My next question is. How to attach a bottle? Obviously I have to have the bottle upright and place the dispenser on the bottle and flip it. But how to get a seal on the bottle that will work with different bourbon or whiskeys. Thanks on advance for any help.
Topic by AndyB107 | last reply
I hate that I cannot find a picture of the valve to show you exactly what I mean but I have a 1/4 in compression fit water valve in my utilities closet that leads to the evaporative cooler above. When I went to turn the handle it turned but the central part that is actually the valve stem (the part that screws in/out) did not. It is one of the older types with a flat handle and seemingly hollow central stem. Is there any way to turn the valve on without completely replacing the valve? edit: Sorry. Somehow I always forget one important detail. It's a valve on 1/4 in copper tubing. I got some pictures but they look crappy because there wasn't really enough room for the camera so I took them with my phone and found my phone's usb cable. The valve was there first and the heater and water heater were installed later, leaving very little room to work. I also tried the vice grip idea. The brass stem cracked and part of the stem is gone now. Even if I do just end up replacing it, I thank you for your input.
Question by finfan7 | last reply
I am in the process of renovating a bathroom that hasn't been used since before i was born, which currently lacks a water heater. Being poor, it is very unlikely that i will be able to buy an on-demand heater for this bathroom, and i know how inefficient normal water heaters are, so i am looking into solar water heaters. I live in a sub desert climate, so catching sun is not a particularly big issue, but i am looking to find out what type of heater is most efficient, both as far as heating water, and cost. would i be better off with a passive, or active system, and what other recommendations do you have for solar water heating?
Question by cyc4015 | last reply
My shower throws off very little hot water. The cold water is almost shut off when I shower. I had a new hot water heater installed. The water is hot everywhere it should be except in the shower. Does anyone have any suggestions? I am obviously plumbing challenged.
Question by luckylynnea | last reply
An odd question, I know - but how do I make a hole in the bottom of an old toilet bowl without breaking it? It doesn't need to be a neat job...
I salvaged an AC motor from an old water pump I found on the side of the road and want to use it to make a simple lathe for turning green wood bowls and cups. I was thinking about using a floor flange as the face plate, a nipple for the shaft and pillow bearing blocks to support it. This assembly would be driven by a v belt and controlled by the speed controller from a jig saw. I attached pictures of the components and a simple cad drawing of the assembly. Do you think this would be functional? Any recommendations?
Topic by ischaren | last reply
These lamps made by Kozo Lamps in Israel with bits of plumbing are pretty inventive and cool. I'm not a fan of stuff made with plumbing normally, but I do have to admit that the knob light switches are a nice touch. Thanks to Tool Using Animal for finding the source. Kozo Lamps via Core77
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
I just bought this money pit of a house....I had this horrible smell coming from the laundry room. I bought new appliances and as soon as they removed the old ones the smell was gone. The new ones are hooked up and the smell seems to have returned. It's not as strong as it was before, but it's back none the less. I was hoping that the smell went with the washer but sadly it has not...I am wondering if it could be something in the drain? If it were the pipes wouldn't the entire house smell each time I used the water??
Question by sherie | last reply
I am learnig to solder and I wonder if it was safe to use lead free plumbing solder or lead free silver baring (97% tin 3% silver) solder on rings and bracelets made out of copper and the like? Second, has any one here know of people making their own solder. By that I mean meting down the tin, copper and silver then pouring and pounding flat? thanks. Ernest
Question by easeemann | last reply
We're planning to get a Yemen (veiled) chameleon and found a US manufacturer making cages like the one below, however the shipping to the UK was prohibitive. So, I'm thinking of a DIY version using THIS sort of mesh and rigid plastic extrusions and was wondering if anyone's made something similar. It needs to be fairly presentable, so plumbing tubing with net draped over is a non-starter. Required size is 30" wide x 16" deep x 42" high.
Question by AndyGadget | last reply
Most people have a hot water heater in the house. Anyone know how to change a John Woods heater's Anode rod?
Its a plumbing problem possibly requiring cutting copper pipe and soldering fittings together. Basically I need to know if the anode rod is in the same place as usual for most hot water heaters or if my John Woods hot water tank does have the anode connected to the hot water intake. If so, how am I going to save money and change the magnesium anode rod myself rather than paying a plumber 80$/hour.
Question by rgrewal | last reply
Solar Hot Water question - How can I control the temp of my hot tub when using a solar hot water heater set up?
I am building a solar hot water system for my hot tub. It will be independently plumbed to keep the original heater and pumps intact and operational. My question is, how can I get the solar system to turn on only when the hot tub is cooler than a certain tempurature and have it turn off if the water being returned from the solar system is colder than the hot tub's current temp? Any ideas would be appreciated!
Question by Walke2jd | last reply
When I say plastics, I mean more specifically, LEGOs. I'm glueing them together because I'm trying to make LEGO headphones, so I would need something permanent. I've heard people using cyanoacrylates and clear plumbing glue (anyone heard of Oatey?) I thought about using hot glue, but I'm not sure if that would give me the bond that I'm looking for. Would Gorilla Glue work too? Or would it be a bit of an overkill? I simply need a glue that will hold the LEGOs through enough wear-and-tear to last, and no discolouring of the pieces. And when I glue, should I glue the sides of the pieces together, or put glue around the dotted studs on the tops of the bricks? Any other glues or advice that you could enlighten me with would be greatly appreciated. :)
Question by Justin Lam | last reply
I have had this thought for some time but don't know plumbing or mechanical movement conversion well enough to effectively pull it off. What I've done so far is install a utility sink that hooks up to a veggiebed-mounted soakhose. I think it would be great for me to build it this way (more from scratch for problem-solving) and all at my limited level, but ideally, I think this will be one next logical step in water conservation if it can be integrated into a kitchen/bathroom sink (and shower). Coupled with an adapter to funnel graywater to storage or irrigation, it becomes one better. I agree flow-restricters are a good idea as well, but I feel this additionally adds to consumer value control and potential reuse. Any ideas on this one would be valuable! Thanks!
Question by Subconscionaut | last reply
I have been researching and think a lot about mobile structures specifically campers that are light weight and highly efficient. After spending a substantial amount of time looking around to see what designs are out there I have concluded that there isn't much. This fact bothers me for a few reasons but mostly because I have a vested interests in this topic. Come march I plan to begin living in a small camper while traveling around the country for several months the only catch is I am going to build it. So my question is what idea's can you all come up with that fit within these guidelines. 1- It must be relatively comfortable for two to live in but cannot exceed 60 sq ft. 2- It must include a toilet, shower and sink as well as a space for a camping stove 3- It must be insulated and have windows for ventilation and natural light 4- It must have storage space 5- The interior must be no less than 6ft tall so that I can stand up straight while the exterior cannot exceed 9ft. 6- It must have a water tank but I do not want any electricity / plumbing and I do not intend on carrying water while in transit. As of now that’s pretty much it for requirements. I should mention that this structure is going to be towed by a ‘05 Honda civic 4 cylinder automatic so the entire unit cannot exceed 1100 lbs trailer included. I don’t wish to destroy this vehicle by towing a camper 5,000 miles around the country but I do plan to add an extra transmission oil reservoir for cooling purposes. I hope some of you find this of interest and have some ideas to share with me. I have some thoughts of how I can make this sucker but I wanted to put my thoughts out and see what someone else comes up with. Thanks and I hope you create something beautiful and functional. Sincerely, C
Question by FAD construction | last reply
So it's been awhile! Between school, homework, work, and playing with gadgets and such, I haven't gotten the time to post or make an instructable for quite a long time. But now, I'm back with a question. I see lots of new users here, and to them I say welcome to the community! You are going to love it here, everyone is helpful, and you'll find answers to just about everything. I also see some members here that were around when I still used instructables. Remember me? How are things? :P Ok, so now for my question. A few weeks ago, after flushing the Toilet, a strange noise began behind our refrigerator. It was king of like a rattling, but not so much that as say, a prize wheel at a gameshow spinning and hitting something heavy. It's really quite odd. The refrigerator is a model with the built in water and ice dispenser. I googled it, and many seem to say it is something called "Pipe Rattling", but I don't think that is what it is, because it only started a couple of weeks ago and we have had this fridge for a year. I have drawn a diagram of the first floor of our house to help you get a better understanding of where the fridge is in comparison to the bathroom and the toilet. Like I said before, the noise only occurs after we flush the 1st floor toilet. Another odd thing about it is when the noise occurs. It can make this rattling as the toilet is flushing, directly after the toilet has flushed, and it has happened up to a minute after the toilet is finished flushing and refilling the bowl. The noise goes for about 5-8 seconds each time, and it only sounds once after each flush. We have not made any additions to the house before or since it started, have npt experienced any severe weather, and have not modified any plumbing in the house in quite a while, and never in that area of the house. In the incredibly bad sketch I made, you can see the bathroom, and the incredibly bad drawing of a toilet. The fridge is indented in the wall so there are cabinets surrounding it. Any thoughts on what this noise can be?
Question by kcls | last reply