How to cut a straight pant?
I remember back in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and I believe even 5th grade, when I was in a gifted program, we had to draw. We drew only straight lines, and when we did it right, it made a curve. We would get a paper with 2 lines, connected at a vertex, at a 90 degree angle. We would draw points every centimeter or so, and connect the points, far to close, far to close. (It's hard to explain.) I'm searching for it on the Internet, but I can't seem to find the right word. Does anyone know it? Thanks, and if it turns out all good, expect an Instructable on it mid- to late October.
Topic by Bran | last reply
Ughhhh...help...uhhh..(this must sound pretty desperate:P)......I'm kinda tall, lanky, gangling, etc. and sometimes hunch over and slump. I'm trying to learn to stand more erect, but my shoulders seem to want to do otherwise. I know a strong core is important in this. Please, if you have any ideas, do pass them along to your rangy comrade. Thanks so much. ;)
Question by happi cat #71 | last reply
I am going to put up chair rail molding in my living room and I can't figure out how to make sure the molding around the room will look straight and level all the way around the room. Do I measure down from the ceiling every few feet around the room or do I measure up from the floor every few feet to get it even around the room. Its an old house so I'm sure the floors are not level or square. Help! Thanks, Donna :-)
Question by donnadidit | last reply
No details necessary, pretty straight forward.
I've been etching brass for a couple years now, but need a better way to cut and trim my plates than a hack saw and a straight edge... What's the best power tool for getting straight edges on thin brass plates? I've been thinking scroll saw or band saw, but I've been told that band saw blades will walk. would a scroll saw be a good idea?
Topic by gschoppe | last reply
I recently made a wooden sword, but i made it out of a large, cylindrical stick. the sawing was tedious, and the cut wasn't as straight as i desired. is there an easier way, not using a cicular or table saw, to cut it? (and no, "cut straighter" isn't the answer i'm looking for.)
Question by orangewolf22 | last reply
Looking to make a leather and canvas bag, the bottom 2-3" in leather, and the top canvas; with a zipper closure between the two sections . Would like the leather to be stightly rigid/stiff so that the bag will stand up straight and not sag.
Question by Immeknotu | last reply
I am sewing some window blinds for a friend on a very tight budget. I'd like to know if I can use slim bamboo canes straight from the garden as a weight. It will be sewn into a cotton fabric channel at the bottom of the blind. Or should I be only using dried bamboo? ie I am hoping that it wont go mouldy??
Question by LyndaA11 | last reply
I am looking for designs for "secret boxes" that could stand up to being permanently outdoors, most likely mounted on some surface. As we speak, I'm running some searches here on Instructibles, but thought I should also go straight to the creators. Also... please let me know if this might be better posted in another forum. Thanks!!!!!
Topic by Purple Chez | last reply
So, I have some glass tubing, about 5mm diameter, about 1mm walls. I need to cut them to length for an Instructable (the cutting isn't the project, the tubes are raw materials).How do I do it? I'd rather not heat them up as I want them to stay straight and cylindrical.
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
I have a number of these rings. I was given some free fabric samples and these secured them all together, like binder rings but huge. They are 6" across, hinged on one side, with threaded closures along the straight section. Does anyone have ideas about how to repurpose them? Not much comes to mind except charm necklaces. Maybe something for a Halloween costume?
Topic by starshipminivan | last reply
Can I (who am a nuts and bolts) person be able to replace my drive belt in my 4-year-old laptop? I feel this should be a straight away operation, am I going to have any problems doing this? I'd like to know if there is anything I might run into getting access to components. Regards
Question by Mr MisterC | last reply
I'm on the wrestling team and today I got dropped straight down on the top of my head. (it was the kind of impact that makes the whole crowd go OOHHHH!!!!!) I was dizzy and disoriented for ~ 10-15 seconds and had a headache for ~ 1 hour. It seems to me like the brain stem would stop the brain from impacting the top of the head but I might be wrong.
Question by bowmaster | last reply
I am a chef and i want to use it as plate for a dessert feature so the edges have to be smooth and the cut has to be straight i thought of freezing water in the bottle and then cutting it on a band saw, but i have never used one before and i dont want to invest money into something that wont work. any ideas i would love to hear them, thanks
Question by hrgerken | last reply
Ihave a 3" round patchI want to sew onto the sleeve of my winter parka (an Alpha Ind. cold weather parka. It's nylon, with polyester fill, I think - certainly not down). I would like to keep the sleeve waterproof, so I'm wary of just sewing straight through the layers of fabric. Obviously cannot use the iron on this coat! Any help much appreciated! Coz.
Question by Coz_UK | last reply
I could use a little help. I'm looking for some way to make fairly precise cuts in 6" PVC. ( Don't ask, it's complicated. But not pressurized or anything dangerous. ) I tried a side cutting bit in a drill, it worked but wobbled side to side too much to make decently straight cuts. I'm thinking something like a jigsaw, but much smaller, also right-angle style would be good. I've been checking out this site for awhile now so, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, I don't want to make one out of an Altoid's box ! :) Any ideas ?
Topic by ComfortablyPlum | last reply
We installed a garage roller door ourselves. However the upper end of the garage roller door is not straight. The middle part of the upper end is bulging out and lower than the two ends that is attach to the two end wheels. It works fine manually. However when we installed the electrical automatic opener. It works on opering the garage door, but when we try to close the door, the door unroll on the shrift instead of coming down. Please let us know what is wrong. Is it the tension of the spring? What is the easiest way to fix it?
Question by VickiZyznik | last reply
I would like to make a (hopefully) really cool instructable on a paper model I made recently. However, I would like to make the drawing out more precise by using a computer to make a template which I can then print out (it would also be good for putting on the instructable). I need the program to be able to handle circles, arcs, and straight lines, and be able to dimension them all. Could someone please recommend a nice program (or website) that will do what I need it to? Thank you in advance, me.
Topic by dsherlock | last reply
I'm creating a neoprene casing to a small product and I'd like it to have a rather straight and stiff appearance, almost like a molded detail. For that reason I don't want to use normal seams (flatlock, overlock) to join the sides of the casing as it would cause bulgy surfaces or a too wide radius. How is this done in the industry? Could it be done either like alternative 1 or 2 in the picture? Which one is to prefer and which joining method is preferable (sewing, glueing, tapeing)? All ideas are welcome!
Question by karolina81 | last reply
I did a home automation project and I even fabricated PCB. I got a plastic box for encasing my PCB. The plastic box needs to be cut in two places to give the power chord and connection to the relays. I had soldering iron so I beat it up to a straight rod and tried to cut some plastic boxes that were lying around in my home. the heat was too much and even though the cut was somewhat accurate the heat caused the surrounding plastic to eventually melt and it became ugly. Any idea how I can cut the plastic smoothly?
Question by NirmalMRaj | last reply
In a web search looking for 12v Christmas lights to run off my small solar system, I found this; http://www.fly.net/~thundt/xmas12v.htm This looks very straight forward and easy enough to do.Has anyone here tried this?I bought a small set of solar powered at Target ($14.95). Way under powered and last only a few hours. It's going back today!This looks like a way to get brighter, longer lasting lights and I don't have to run my converter. My 160 AH battery should power it up nicely, I would think...Think I found a project for this afternoon!
Topic by olddawg | last reply
I've been googleing about the advantage of LED grow lights and how it saves energy and how they last longer. After looking to buy them I realized they were very expensive. However, I also found a few do-it-yourself guides which I thought were pretty neat and straight forward. The only thing I didn't see was if the LEDs they used were special or just any red/blue led lights can be used. Hope to get an answer and save a few bucks but most importantly save energy, Thanks in advance !!
Question by monchito7 | last reply
I found a small eagle scout glass desk piece with a black base. I'm gonna buy one and put small LED lights and a battery in the base. I need a little help with what to do with the circuit. I have some 18650, 18650 holders, copper wire, and some down time. Should I go straight for 3.6/3.7v 18650, or should I use standard 1.5v cells? I want to do purple (my school color). Would it look better to use UV instead of regular purple? Where should I buy a bunch of little led? Online or in store? If I want to sand a pattern on the sides of the glass cube, what's the best way to go about doing that?
Topic by leaf26 | last reply
Question: I've gotten a nice sized scrap of sign vinyl from where I work at, and I'm wanting to cut out a replacement logo for the side of my pedal-start moped. I can do it by hand okay if I could transfer the design onto the sign vinyl and follow it. (because, I don't have access to a vinyl cutter or a Cricut type machine.) Can you do the toner transfer method from a transparency made in a laser printer, or would that melt the vinyl? Or, if cut to proper size, could you print directly onto the vinyl, if the printer's paper path were essentially straight? It wouldn't have to be permanent, just on the surface to follow it. This stuff is pretty opaque, so a light table won't work either. Thanks for your time!
Topic by pheenix42 | last reply
I have a 5" radius 1/2" emt bender and 100' of 1/2" emt. I need to make three bends in each piece, 1- 90 degree in the middle and 1-45 degree bend on each side of the 90. Here's my problem: I need the "legs" (sides - picture a doghouse with a 90 deg peak and straight up and down sides) to be exactly 27" apart INSIDE measurement. Now, where do I make my marks on the pipe and what direction do I bend (facing the 90 or facing away from the 90)? I need these measurements to be precise so I can make all ten pieces of pipe the same. How 'bout you Journeyman Electricians? Anybody. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Question by Jusme_Newby | last reply
I have a vacuum cleaner motor that runs off straight AC from the wall. I think it's like 120 V AC right?.. anyways it's got a huge amount of toque and i'd like to attach it to a stationary bicycle and pedal it to generate electricity. I know all the instructables for this my only quam is the type of motor. I'm not buying one. This is what I have and furthermore I don't even know if it's like universal i guess they call them..I do know that it is a brushed engine (as in it's not brushless) by the way if you haven't caught it yet my electrical jargin is very weak. Thanks for any help you can give me.-Ask me if you need more info.
Question by cdubnbird | last reply
Hi hi, i have an old pair of cyclist's leg warmers. they have lost some of their elastic action, and they fall down almost straight away. I went and bought some new elastic to sew onto them, but also wanted to stick some gripper stuff on the inside. The gripper stuff is found on most knicks and cycle shorts now; it's some sort of silicone or rubber that grips to your leg. I don't know what exactly it is, so didn't want to go out to the hardware store and just buy some tube of silicone, only to find out it irritates the hell out of my skin or just doesn't do the job. I tried a (big) sewing supplies store, but they had no idea what it could be. Can anyone help? I'm in Australia. I saw that in the states you can buy elastic with the gripper already on it, which is a bit of a pain. The gripper stuff is used by skiers and canoeists too... Cheers, Ben
Topic by bluenevus | last reply
Ok so i was wondering if any of you algae growers out there have ever tried fertilizing with chicken manure and if you have found the gross bugs/ parasites/ oil crap on top/gross things, and how you got around that i tried boiling the manure in water for ten minutes to kill the stuff but it didnt seem to work? ok so ive heard of the chemical way of making bio diesel but is there any way to make bio diesel or bio gasoline or bio ethonal without nasty chemicals from the oil straight from the algae press. Im 16 and my parents dont want me to have harsh chemicals nor do i have the money to go buy them. thanks
Question by zaronas | last reply
Hi all, I have a vinyl cutter and have been using this to make tee shirts for about six months now. I have recently been asked to make a couple of hundred tee shirts for a local charity so need to be able to make them as cheap and quickly as possible. I was therefore wondering if I cut use my vinyl cutter to cut a 'stencil' for blocking out a screen for screen printing. The design includes some very straight lines and some small detail as well as some text. My idea is to cut out my design as a negative and somehow stick that to the inside of the screen as the blocker? Or would I need to use it to 'block' my blocker? Has anyone successfully used a vinyl cutter for this purpose? Thanks in advance. Simon
Question by slysimon | last reply
I tried making one part and also two part (push) molds with plaster of paris. I followed the directions and mixed two parts of plaster to one part of cool water and poured into a box (dunno the technical name for it) over my shape. But the plaster sticks to my shape no matter what. I can't get my shape (positive) out without breaking my mold b/c it won't release. I've tried mineral oil, silicone release spray, and vaseline. The vaseline has worked the best but I can't use it on every part. I've tried making a mold of a piece of wood and a concrete paver and neither of which worked. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. It seems fairly straight forward. Lubricate the positive (what I want to make a mold of), put a slab of clay down, put the box around the positive and imbed into the clay to prevent leaking from the bottom, and then pour the plaster over the positive.
Topic by msminnamouse | last reply
I study product design and I'm designing a home craft laser cutter machine, I was hoping anyone who has experimented with laser cutting fabric/ clothing/accessories could share what tips they found made the process easier or the problems that occurred whilst doing this. I would appreciate if you could help me with a few questions I have :) What did you use to keep the fabric straight whilst laser cutting? What would be the best material to put in between the fabric to prevent cutting through for example both sides of a t shirt, plastic sheet or cardboard or.. ? Would you find it beneficial if you could have a small machine to cut out smaller sized fabric to attach for dresses, tops etc of for accessories? If there is any aspect of the process that you think would benefit from being made simpler what would it be? Thank you for your time Any feedback would be much appreciated Kelly-Ann Moore Staffordshire University Student
Topic by kelly569 | last reply
How do I troubleshoot an old 8-day pendulum mantle clock, pendulum stops after 5 min., even fully wound, Any advice ? Answered
I have an old Plymouth 8-day mantle clock, chimes the hour and half-hour, probably from the 1920s. The gears/ springs/ escapement are mint inside, no bent, rusty, or corroded parts. I scoured local antique shops for a winding key, which I found for it. The clock ran well for one week straight until it stopped. Since then, I can't get the pendulum to run more than about 5 minutes! I leveled the clock, tilting it slightly forward or back, to no avail. I oiled the heck out of it, and wound the springs fully. It is a really cool old clock for my leatherworking studio, no batteries or electric needed, and want to restore it somewhat original condition. Any advice on this? Thank you for your help.
Question by RetroLeatherHatter | last reply
For those people that arent familar with magic cards they are collecter as well as playing cards that you can collect and what i intend to make a mosaic out of the art from these cards. the idea is a 29 by 47 tile mosaic (of a face) which will probably be rather big, the tiles will be approx 2 1/16 inches (5.24 cm) by 1 9/16 inches (3.97 cm) so that will make the whole art work about 1.52m by 1.87m. so there will be the tiles all creating this picture and then i want to put a clear plastic sheet over the top (havent decided if i want it pivoted at the top of to have it completely stuck down but it is not really the problem). I would like to know of suitable methods for glueing each of the tiles as well as what to glue them too as well as bracing of the art to keep it straight and flat and all that, be it made of wood or anything nothing is a problem metal to some extent but yeah any ideas because what i have so far is the tiles ready to be cut and no way to stick them and no idea what to stick them too. any help would be appreciated and thank you in advance :)
Topic by Wozzaman | last reply
Can I remove the arm of a sofa and make it stable so someone can lean against the back at that point.
I have a heavy old sofa, good quality, overstuffed, with a fully enclosed frame. The back is the same height as the arms, straight back that curves slightly into the arms, rather than meeting at a 90 degree angle. I want to cut one of the arms off (to mesh with another sofa, to make an L shaped seating area) is this possible. Anyone know any resources online to guide me? or does anyone have tips. I was thinking I need to strip back covering, padding etc. Cut off the arm and trip and resew/staple the wadding/covering back in place, but I need to do something to take the weight of a person leaning against the back that is now unsupported by the arm....I assume....I was thinking of getting an upsidedown T-shaped piece of metal made up, the upright part to be screwed to the wood of the back, and the rest screwed onto the frame around seat level....and then put back wadding/cover as before.what do you think. would it work?
Question by edel | last reply
Does anyone know of a good 1 to 1 resin/catalyst and metal powder that can be gotten locally (to Phoenix, AZ)? Answered
I am making a custom sword. The intent is to make it out of resin. I have made the blank out of wood and will be making the mold from silicone. I currently have Castin Craft Clear resin. I have made a few sample casts and the results are fairly inconsistent. I have made it from straight resin (plus Catalyst) which made it too brittle or too tacky, either too much or not enough catalyst. I tried to do a cold cast by mixing in Aluminum Powder (I used Stop leak for radiator repair), but that made the cast like rubber. I am not keen on buying stuff online and can't source Real AL Powder locally and the only resin I can find is either the stuff I have or Fiberglass resin at Home Depot. I am trying to end up with a finished product that will not be tacky and will not shatter if I bump it against something. It will be used as a Renaissance Festival Costume piece, not for real use. Any other Resin casting suggestions would be welcome as well.
Question by Zippomanonfire | last reply
I am looking to create custom circular needles--each of which consists of 2 1-pointed needles connected by a smooth, flexible cable. This project is to provide access to knitting socks and certain other projects to a friend whose physical limitations make it impossible without the following: ~~~~ Circular knitting needles of which the metal needle portions are no less than 10" in length and between 2mm and 3.5mm in diameter. Cable length may be between 20cm-80cm depending on the project. ~~~~ What I'm stuck on is what kind of cable to use and how to attach said cable so that the yarn slides over it smoothly, going either way over the join. I can either cut the ends off of straight needles or use needles with double points--I thought the double pointed ones would allow the needle to slide into a hollow cable that could be meddled with so as to make a smooth join. it is possible that the larger needles are hollow and could have a cable inserted, but that would be very small. I am happy to entertain the idea of other material for the needles--it must be strong enough to do stitches without flexing. Bamboo has been tried and is out, given the length and diameter. The needles I have on hand are, as far as I know, made of steel. If I get anywhere, I'll post an 'Ible. Thanks in advance, Wicken
Question by 0jack | last reply
I have a IBM ThinkPad Ultra Port 2 Cam 2 "02K5152" That I want to hook up in my truck but my problem is getting the right power to and at the same time record straight into a video camera so I can keep a live feed going when I need it to. I guess it would be a lot like in a cop car where I can turn it on and off with a switch. I was thinking about getting a USB hub but I still need a way to get the power to it. Is there anyone who could draw up a scamatic so a novice can read it please. It would be of great great help to me to get this going. I have a lot of xtra USB ports from old pc's that I thought about putting together a USB hub my self but I don't know where and what resisters to use because I havent gotten up to speed on them as fast as I wanted to so im still in the R&R; stage area on that. I took some pic's of the cam so you can see it and im wanting to put it in a 1995 Chevy truck. Also it will need to be removeable quick and easy because of the cold temps of winter and thiefs if you know what I mean. Thanks for any help in advance. I really love this site. D
Question by madrasi | last reply
Every so often I get a bit lost in thought about the word "authentic" and how it applies to the world around us. I've seen lots of people who fought over what is authentic in the States and Japan. It probably happens elsewhere, too, but that's where I've lived.So many people are in the hunt for what is authentic in the world. There is a constant complaint of modern objects being too plastic, even if they aren't made up of plastic. So wood and organic foods become almost fetish items. They are seen to be inherently closer to the source. This is not a bad pursuit and to me it is close to the hunt for meaning in the world, but the desire to hold something up on a pedestal and worship it can lead to false idols.What reminded me of this today was a story about an exhibit at the Vatican Museum where classic statues have been recreated with what they imagined how they were originally painted. The results are often bizarre. Caligula in the image below looks straight out of Akira.full storyIt can be hard to have the images of the marble statues that we know match up with these colorful images, but they are part of the same world. So what is now more authentic? The white marble or the primary colors? What about the creaky old chair that is never used any more versus the new chair that is simply using modern methods to the same end?It all leads to some more questions, too. Is authentic an elitist ideal or a purist one? Do we seek our own identity by aligning it with something else that nobody can copy?It's all fun and games, but I have to go and take care of more family errands and go out to eat while I'm out here near Boston. I hear the clam chowder at the local restaurant is amazing.
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
I have a new instructable (Late December) about making your own templates with technical drawing tools. You can basically make the compound parabolic dish to catch 1,2,3 or 4 hours worth of sunlight. I have made a 3 hour dish and it worked great as a solar cooker. I have not however solved the math for exactly how the light reflects to the cooking pot. It is pretty good but not yet optimized. Would anyone like to join in? I can either make the instructable a collaboration or you can post your refinements on appropedia on their wiki.I do not want this project to lie stillborn like the pulser pump did for 20 years but how to engage people? Thats the real problem. Thank you Brian White 21st dec 2008 and it has worked really well. I would like others to try it so I made a template. I chalklined across the dome at 15 degrees intervals, Put clear plastic over it, marked the lines on the plastic and cut the plastic. Basically all you have to do is cut a piece of ply to be like the template, use it to cut out 12 mylar segments and then tape them together. (I do not know how you will hold this umbrella open, thats up to you!)My dimension lines were vertical on the paper, it just looks angled from the picture. Figures (all in inches) are 0.5,15.5,17,31,7,12,2.5 and 3/4 just in case you cannot read them. Its a funny looking template but I think it is good enough of an approximation for this. I devided the 2 long curves into straight lines.Should be fine. I also have a pdf file containing results, etc as the second image file. Just click on it and it should open. (solar for group.pdf) Brian Brian
Topic by gaiatechnician | last reply
I have been researching and think a lot about mobile structures specifically campers that are light weight and highly efficient. After spending a substantial amount of time looking around to see what designs are out there I have concluded that there isn't much. This fact bothers me for a few reasons but mostly because I have a vested interests in this topic. Come march I plan to begin living in a small camper while traveling around the country for several months the only catch is I am going to build it. So my question is what idea's can you all come up with that fit within these guidelines. 1- It must be relatively comfortable for two to live in but cannot exceed 60 sq ft. 2- It must include a toilet, shower and sink as well as a space for a camping stove 3- It must be insulated and have windows for ventilation and natural light 4- It must have storage space 5- The interior must be no less than 6ft tall so that I can stand up straight while the exterior cannot exceed 9ft. 6- It must have a water tank but I do not want any electricity / plumbing and I do not intend on carrying water while in transit. As of now that’s pretty much it for requirements. I should mention that this structure is going to be towed by a ‘05 Honda civic 4 cylinder automatic so the entire unit cannot exceed 1100 lbs trailer included. I don’t wish to destroy this vehicle by towing a camper 5,000 miles around the country but I do plan to add an extra transmission oil reservoir for cooling purposes. I hope some of you find this of interest and have some ideas to share with me. I have some thoughts of how I can make this sucker but I wanted to put my thoughts out and see what someone else comes up with. Thanks and I hope you create something beautiful and functional. Sincerely, C
Question by FAD construction | last reply
I'm hoping you or someone can direct me to any instructables related to the idea of making--sewing, I assume, but maybe not--a binder for a middle school student. My kid likes the $20 (or so) binders/organizers that have a zippered cover, but they don't last; he's on his third this year. A more durable, home-made cover that slipped over a cheap, normal binder might do the trick. What those covers do--in theory--is (a) protect the binder, (b) they can be zipped closed and so seal the contents. I hate to be fussy, but my kid is, so it would be nice if the cover looked 'cool' (remember middle school?). An obvious home-made 'look' might be a deal-breaker. The store-bought versions have lots of bells and whistles: special pockets for this or that, but there are pencil-pouch thingies (that attach via the binder's rings) that come with the fancy store-bought versions, and they survive when the rest of the binder is destroyed--or can be bought separately. One of them might satisfy the need for cool pockets and misc. item storage. If it helps anyone thinking about this, I've replaced the actual 3-ring component of such binders by drilling out the rivets holding the 3-ring clasp thingy from a cheap binder then attached it with screws to a not-yet-destroyed organizer (only the rings of the latter were destroyed at that point), so if someone had ideas for a stronger material for the binder--instead of using a standard, off-the-shelf binder with cardboard inside a vinyl/plastic cover, attaching the rings would be very doable. As far as material for the cover, would it work to use one of those re-useable totebags they sell at grocery stores? I was thinking heavy canvas would be the way to go, but that might be hard to work with. If it was for me, I'd use an old pair of blue jeans, but that might not cut it in terms of the 'coolness' factor. I am planning on getting a sewing machine--but would/could borrow one now relatively easily--and have enough experience with such to 'get by': on a good day, if I'm careful, I can sew a sort-of straight line. I've put grommets in various items--maybe some way of lacing-up the cover or pulling it closed with a cinch-strap/string would be a better way to 'close' it? Seems like a zipper could be hard to attach/might be a weak spot. Thanks for any thoughts.
Question by schneb | last reply
Want to see the questions already? Scroll to the bottom! I'm going to buy this game (it's actually quite cheap, $10 only, but you need another game to run it, which costs $20) and I don't want to ask for a reasonably large sum of money (well, I'm 13, can't spend $30 of hard-earned cash in one place) for 2 games. Since time isn't the issue here, and I can't go around cleaning up other peoples' lawns (due to the fact that there are no lawns) or do their chores, I'd rather do it online. I've decided to use Google Ad Sense since no other way is really appealing to me (not in hurry here, I can wait a year) and it's a passive form of generating money online, instead of dedicated work of which I don't have the time for. Just to get things straight, when I said "time isn't the issue here" I meant actual time in weeks, months etc, and when I said "I don't have the time for" I mean it's going to go in between me and my High School responsibilities. Okay, back to topic, so Ad Sense is a passive form of generating money online, which means setup-and-forget, although Google does let you look at your earnings. I read it up on their site, and there are 2 types of ads you can use, namely CPC (Cost-Per-Click) and CPM (Cost-Per-Thousand-Impression). Cost per click means $ will be generated if the website viewer clicks on it; Cost per thousand impression means $ will be generated if the people even view the site. Now I can't decide which one to use, since CPC ads are the better if the website doesn't receive a lot of views, but the ads are attractive enough to click on. CPM ads should be used when the website receives a lot of views but the ads aren't really that persuasive. (Side note, the ads displayed depends on the info you give to Google about your site, ie. site topic, location you're based in etc.) I might have lost you in there, plainly, the question is which should I use? Of course, that all depends on the topic to use (which is my own problem to solve, but feel free to drop in). For those too lazy to read everything else I've written: 1) Who has used Google Ad Sense? 2) If so, how much, on average, do you earn (please do tell if it's CPC or a CPM ad)? (Also include scale and popularity of your website) 3) How do you get paid from Google Ad Sense? (can't find it on the FAQ)
Question by nutsandbolts_64 | last reply
I know this is a long post but I would be grateful to any of you for being willing to read it. So I am going to be married soon and moving into my first real adult apartment. As a wedding gift to my new wife I want to make us a really neat computer table setup. We have a room laid out as an office for the two of us so I wanted to try and make a large desk that would run along three walls in a giant U. I am planning to make it modular in the sense that it will actually be 3 straight desks plus 2 corner units and each can work independently of the others. She is a huge steampunk fan so I want to use pipe as the structure that I paint a brass color and then make a wood a nice dark cherry color. While there are some great plans on pipe desks I have a few questions. 1. Most of the desks I see are MDF/Ply + pipe. Is this strong enough to use as a desk for crafts, art, and to hold several monitors all at once? I am sure the pipe is but I am concerned about the ply or mdf bowing. If I use normal wood planks to reinforce the bottom will that allow it to remain more sturdy? 2. How hard is it to disassemble these? We plan on moving many times in our life and I'd like to build a design that not only can break down into the 5 separate desks but can actually be disassembled. I hear MDF/Plywood doesn't like taking screws more than once. If I screw the table-top into the frame using screws and flanges is that a - do it once and it is done sort of thing or can I unscrew them to move the desktop without ruining the top? 3. Assuming trying to rescrew it together would ruin the table I had the idea of creating a frame with wood blocks screwed into the flanges that had been given raised pegs - probably carved out of the wood. The desktops would then have fitted holes carved into them - assuming I use a thick frame underneath the ply like 2/4 lumber - so that I can just lay the desktop on the pegs and weight would hold it in place. My question is whether or not this has the same strength as screwing the desktop directly to the frame. Assuming the holes and pegs are well-fitted and near flush would I get enough strength for a sturdy table? 4. I've been really fascinated with the planked wood tables I've seen on here. It seems easy enough to build a solid wood underframe and then cut plywood planks and screw them to the frame. My only question is for corner units. Most modern corner desks are big pieces of MDF that have been shaped. Assuming my corner piece is straightforward - just a square table with one corner loped off - how hard would it be to create a corner desk with a planked top? Could I do it with just a jigsaw? 5. I've noticed quite a few of the plans use aluminum pipes and Kee Lite or Kee Klamp fittings. These seem rather expensive, and if I am doing a cheap MDF top I want to know if there is a cheaper metal alternative that still has good structural capacity. These are desk tops for computers - maybe 120-200 lb load limit maximum for the entire desk. Could I use plumping pipe? Are there cheaper fittings than Kee Lite that are still easy to disassemble when I want to move? Thanks in advance for any answers!
Topic by mduhamel | last reply
Well, seeing I am a growing young man, I have come to hate my brother. I dislike everything about him and I want to move out of our room. I have already moved my Xbox 360, bought a new $900 dollar computer, a 32" 1080p HD LED/LCD TV, a glass table/desk, and have moved alot of this "equipment" downstairs in my garage. Note: I still sleep in our room upstairs. Now I have basically been spending a majority of my time in my garage and have noticed a couple of flaws of this "moving in." I do homework in my garage, I edit videos in my garage, play Xbox 360, go on the computer, anything that basically doesn't involve sleeping, These flaws I have noticed in my garage will be listed now: Barely any Air Conditioning (I have a fan, but it sometimes throws dust everywhere) A lot of dust falls everywhere, on my glass table, Xbox 360, TV, Lamp, everywhere. I have mediocre internet speed, about 4 Mbps average download speed, and 3.50 Mbps average upload speed, when I should be getting around 15 Mbps with Comcast (Maybe this has to do with my wireless connections or my Wifi strength, located upstairs with my brother) There is wall mold on some places of the walls (which can actually be a health issue) There are little bugs that are on the walls, along with spiders (Which kind of creep me out) And last is that I have a whole bunch of stuff in here that my mom wants to giveaway to poor, needing children in South America, but she never get to doing it. It is really cramped in my garage with all this stuff. Please keep in mind that I want to have my bed in here, and have my separate room in here... So what I need help with, or what I need assistance with, is having a good way to approach this problem in a neat, healthy, way. I want to live comfortably in my room, without the constant precipitation of dust, the idea that a spider will crawl into my mouth, that my walls are beautifully painted, and I have space to move around. Also when I go to use the internet that I have reasonably fast Internet Speed, and when I play Xbox 360, I don't lag, like I usually do. My Internet is setup like this, just if you were wondering: Comcast Surfboard Modem - Connected to the Internet Wireless Comcast Netgear Router - Connected to my Modem My brothers Xbox 360 - Wired directly to the router My Xbox 360 & Computer - Get Internet access through Wifi from the Router Wireless Comcast Netgear Router - Gives Wifi to everyone in my house also that sometimes may be using it I wan't to see how I can get faster Internet speed, probably connecting two wireless routers, which I think is impossible, or seeing if I can run a cable down from my Wireless Router straight to my Xbox or something. I wan't to have a list of procedures on how I can go about to do this and fix this room up to my liking. Well for those of you that actually finished reading this, thank you and any help would be greatly appreciated. And also I will attach a picture of my garage so that you can have a better picture of what I am dealing with. Thanks again Alex...
Question by DELETED_Alex8171 | last reply