DIY Hanging vegetable sacks?

I saw these Orka hanging vegetable keep sacks and as I can't buy them (availability and the price are the issue) I was wondering if anyone has an idea or advice on how to make them yourself? http://www.thegreenhead.com/2011/08/vegetable-keep-sacks.php

Topic by Sound Of Vision   |  last reply


Free vegetable seeds (UK)

Just an FYI for Brits who fancy stuff for free; you can get a pack of free seeds by signing up at http://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/digin/ They're not super-exciting, but they're free, and there are some interesting recipes that use the vegetables. (You have to give your postal address to get the seeds, but not your email address.)

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


How to use all the vegetables that come in a subscription? Answered

We get a box of organic fruits and vegetables every two weeks, but often end up wasting much of the food because we don't know how to cook it. I know we could look up recipes online, but we generally find that's just a little too much effort and we cook something we know. Any ideas how to cook unfamiliar veggies?

Question by rachel   |  last reply


Can I grow tomatoes (and other vegetables) in part shade (4-5 hours)?

I've recently moved into a new house (I'm not telling you where) and the backyard only receives 4-5 hours of sunshine per day. I'm wondering if my vegetables requiring full sun will still grow? I'm tired of seeing the same old "it must have at least 6-8 hours of sunlight each day" . If this is still not possible then I will consider a hydroponic system with growth lights under my stairs... I was always interested in hydroponics ever since I saw an advertisement for the AeroGarden, but I never actually tried to build a system and I definitely can't afford one.

Question by awang8   |  last reply


how can I dye clothes with vegetable and fruit dye??

My daugther wants to color clothes with eco friendly products meaning no chemicals at all. we are thinking fruits, vegetables, plants... how permanent is the result??

Question by mirablau   |  last reply


Any ideas on how to build a floating vegetable garden for the cottage?

I'd really like to grow veggies at the cottage, but our wee little island is covered with trees and hence, too shady. I don't want to clear any trees so I was thinking a floating vegetable garden would be great! Here are some of my ideas: -some sort of floating dock-like structure holding/attached to garden beds -some kind of earth-box style planters -some sort of string/osmosis type system that could suck water out of the lake to keep the soil moist (okay, I know this is really pushing it. Maybe a pump would be more realistic). -NOT hydroponics: I'd like to grow veggies in regular soil, just out floating on the water instead of on the land! Some inspiration: http://www.homebysunset.com/home_by_sunset/2007/09/gardening-on-to.html Like the pic in the link above, but something a wee bit tidier and smaller? Any ideas how to do this on the cheap? All notions welcome! Sarah

Question by sallycinnamon   |  last reply


Do Plants Such as Vegtables count?

Do the entries have to be flowers or can we also submit helpful Instructables on how to grow richer and better tasting fruits or vegetables?

Topic by Print182   |  last reply


Free mulch delivery!

Free mulch delivery service: abouttrees.com

Topic by blkhawk   |  last reply


Do cheap pH meters work?

I have seen $10-20 pH meters for testing soil in garden stores, home improvement/hardware stores. I was wondering do these give accurate readings? I am looking for a cheap and accurate way to test pH. Any suggestions even for other ph testing methods are appreciated. Thanks!

Question by rendermatt   |  last reply


Advice for starting an apartment herb or vegetable garden in extremely dry and cold climate?

I live in the North and can't seem to get anything to grow let alone stay alive! We have snow on the ground Sept to May/June and between Nov to Apr the temp is usually -22F to -49F. It's extremely dry as well. As I live in an apartment, I am limited in floor space and need to keep them away from the windows as they freeze over (too drafty). It should be said that  I'm a beginner at green things - before moving up here, things stayed alive at least (maybe not flourish) but here, EVERYTHING seems to die!

Question by tibaistabi   |  last reply



Computer programming help needed

 Alright so since it's cold and impossible to grow my vegetables in my garden outside, I came across The Cheap Vegetable Gardener and he gave me the idea to use an old pc and turn it into a grow box. What I wanted to do was put a webcam or a camera in there and either  a) have it automatically take pictures every couple hours and stop when its lights out time. b) have it "streaming" where I can check it on my computer when I'm on the go.

Question by Mccall101   |  last reply



How to make a patio rail garden?

I need to make an instructable on how to craft a box that can be hung on a rail of a patio. I live in a dorm on the third floor and that patio has this protection rail that would be great for said box. The goal here is to grow vegetables that can be harvested and used, or spices, or something that would be fun and help cut down on the costs of something else (Like vegies, i want vegies). I certain one of these already exists, so if some one can point me in the right direction, thatd be great, thanks.

Question by Jumpin Jehosaphat   |  last reply


Oil to Wax?

Hello! There is a home way to turn vegetal oil into wax? Or in any solid form that can be used to make candles? I want use the oil in candles, but I have fear of an accident with the "common" oil candles. Thanks for your time!

Question by infob 


All Season greenhouse?

I live in Northern, Ontario, Canada. We get only a few warm months through the summer and its fairly cold for the rest of the year, dropping down to about 40 below, Celsius!!  I have a vegetable garden in my backyard that does fairly well during the summer but I would like to be able to have fresh vegetables for my family year round. Is there any way I could build an outdoor greenhouse that I can use year round, without costing a fortune?  I also have a spare room on the upper level of my house that I could use but I don't want it to become too humid and rot my walls. Any ideas would help! Thanks!

Question by kmarrello   |  last reply


What is a good way to drain the sludge out of the bottom of a three year old electric water heater? Answered

I've never done it before.  Do I need to turn it off?  Is the water safe on a vegetable garden? The back yard is lower than the basement. A hose could reach that far.

Question by mole1   |  last reply


Using Worm Tea as Hydroponic nutrients? Answered

Would that work? I want a totally organic hydroponic system, and using worm tea sounds like the best solution. I know I would have to dilute it, but how much, and does it provide everything the plant needs?

Question by Rotten194   |  last reply


The New Pollution

A green revolution is supposed to lead us to a utopia where the birds chirp and the human stain is smaller on the planet, but sometimes the new looks a little too much like the old.Take this story about biofuel plants dumping glycerin into rivers. Sure, it can be broken down by organisms, but it still causes big problems when dumped into ecosystems, just like the black stuff."They're really considered nontoxic, as you would expect," said Bruce P. Hollebone, a researcher with Environment Canada in Ottawa and one of the world's leading experts on the environmental impact of vegetable oil and glycerin spills."You can eat the stuff, after all," Mr. Hollebone said. "But as with most organic materials, oil and glycerin deplete the oxygen content of water very quickly, and that will suffocate fish and other organisms. And for birds, a vegetable oil spill is just as deadly as a crude oil spill." Link to nytimes articlevia treehugger

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


What LEDS do I need to make a "Grow Light" for growing plants and vegetables indoors? 110V & 12V. Thanks! Answered

Indoor Grow Light for plants and hydroponic gardening.  I need both 110Volt and 12 Volt schematics for out off grid home. My LED knowledge is very limited so I need the specs on the LEDS.

Question by GrumpyOldGoat   |  last reply


Does someone have recipe to prepare bulgur like Turkish restaurants serve with their kebobs??

This dish resembles a fluffy rice with a flavor and color like Spanish rice. I have eaten it at a restaurant in Cary, NC. I am a cardiac patient and am focusing on healthy vegetables, grains and fruit dishes. I am not vegetarian. Thank you for any replies.

Question by pancanalkid   |  last reply


How do i become a prairie girl?

I am new to all this and i was wondering if I could get any suggestion on how to get started with making my own stuff like soap, candles, shampoo, etc?? I would also like to grow my own vegetable and learn some wood working!!! Please teach me your ways!!!!

Question by arky2b   |  last reply


What veggies grow well in very little light? Answered

I am moving into an appartment with a decent sized patio, where hanging plants would be spectacular, if it weren't for the fact that we are on the bottom floor, and facing north. there is almost no light throughout the day. Does anyone know any fruits or veggies, or heck, even herbs, that grow in next to no light?

Question by cyc4015   |  last reply


Making momos of artful and fancy shapes: can someone tell me how to?

Momo or Dimsum is a dumpling common all over east asia. The basic idea is to take a wrapper( thin small pancake of dough), stuff it with a mixture of meat and vegetables and steam it. Eaten hot with any sauce, preferably pungent. I want to see momos/dimsums of artful and fancy shapes, and the technique of making them.

Question by hit_dSpot   |  last reply


Do These Plants Need Stakes? Answered

Firstly, when I say "stakes" I mean a giant setup made out of 2 stakes and chickwire, extremely good for climbing (in brilliant Australian sub-tropical, metal in full sunlight still can't burn plants). Tomatoes Kidney beans Black-eyed peas Soy beans Adzuki beans Watermelon Mung beans Sweet corn Pumpkin Cucumber Zucchini

Question by awang8   |  last reply


Freeze dried green bean snacks?

I would like to know how to make this really good snack. We have a ton of green beans in the garden and would like to make my own homemade snacks. I think I might know of the freeze drying process, but would like a recipe for the coating that is on the beans. The beans I have eaten have just a slight hint of sweetness to them. What is used??? Thanks for any help!!

Question by skyfine   |  last reply


What can I eat to give me more energy and stamina?

 I'm a 51 year old female auto worker, working on the line at a physically exhausting job.  I'm feeling sore, tired and achy all the time.  At work, I walk 3 miles a day and try to do core exercises at home.  I've started juicing to get more fresh fruits and vegetables into me.  Is there anything else to help renew my muscles after a long day on the job?

Question by WhatknotAnna   |  last reply


I got a barrel but am unsure what was in it. If I take it to a car wash and hose it out, will it be safe to use?

I am setting up a rain barrel collection system to water my vegetable garden. It is a very large white barrel. I received it from the composting/recycling center at work and they weren't sure what was in it. They already used a pressure hose to rinse it out. I am planning on taking it to a car wash and spending quite a bit of time hosing it with soap and then rinsing. Is this a good idea.

Question by Bruster   |  last reply


Plastic buckets - safe for food storage?

If a retail store's 5-, 6-, 7-gallon plastic buckets are made from HDPE (high density polyethylene), will they be safe for storing flour, sugar, honey, etc., and for growing vegetables such as tomatoes? Or, would buckets made from other kinds of plastics such as PET, PETE, or PP be safer for food storage? While shopping on the Internet, manufacturers' literature's for HDPE buckets say the items "meets FDA requirements." What exactly are the FDA's requirements with regards to HDPE-made buckets? I have asked a manufacturer, and searched the FDA's Web site http://www.fda.gov/default.htm for an explanation without success.

Question by    |  last reply


I What is the easiest home made alcohol to make? Answered

So basically i kind of wanted to make a great tasting beverage, but also a hell of a lot of it. I made beer from a pack before but it tasted quite bad, due a plasticy taste which i wasn't quite sure about. Also i live in the countryside and i'm a watcher of 'river cottage', so i wouldn't mind suggestions along the way they do it, i.e getting the fruit/plant/vegetable from public land that i don't have to go to a shop and pay for. I have all the basics from my first attempt, but i wouldn't mind suggestions on types, and easy to avoid errors.

Question by bradley13   |  last reply


Green cleaning products

Found a few easy recipes for making green cleaning products... Anyone have more suggestions? "Americans spend millions of dollars a year on cleaning supplies. This spring, make your own cleaning agents with these recipes from EarthShare and EarthWays, two nonprofit environmental organizations. The recipes are friendly to the environment and to your bank account." Air fresheners: Simmer a small amount of cinnamon, orange peel, and cloves on the stove to give off a pleasant fragrance in your home. Glass cleaner: Mix 2 tablespoons of borax or washing soda with three cups of water for sparkling windows and mirrors. Carpet freshener: Sprinkle dry cornstarch or baking soda on your carpet and vacuum. Furniture polish: Combine 1/2 cup lemon juice to 1 cup vegetable oil, olive oil, or mayonnaise. Apply to rag. Source: ManageMyHome

Topic by DinaC   |  last reply


Farming - I need some help

NEW QUESTION: Should I grow food, or food and commodities (IE wheat, cotton, etc) Well, I grew vegetables last year, and the crop was a failure. Don't ask me why, since there were at least 20 things I did wrong, and on top of that, mother nature was pissed off at me. Well, I already have some ideas on how I'm going to make my farming more eco-friendly, but I'd like some more, some ideas I have are: No fertilizer (I grew organics last year too) collecting rainwater in buckets to use to water on drier days (I'm going to make a small shed which I can store the water for just such an occasion) Allowing bugs into my garden Also, I plan to compost all the plant waste (I also use my dog's "Waste" for fertilizer... weird, I know, but it works, and it means I don't have to use up plastic bags, or pick the stuff up. Plus, it's better in the ground being broken up than in the landfill taking up space) And some things I worry about are: Moving sand into the area. I hear that sand is better for beats and carrots, but I wonder if it would be a bad environmental change to move sand into the area. It's not a large area of land, but still. Please excuse me if I didn't make too much sense, I'm really confused right now... school is getting to me :(

Topic by A good name   |  last reply


Feedback Can someone test my Instructable "software for solar reflector design"?

I have an instructable about designing better reflectors for solar cookers. (Better than parabolic dishes). Basically you can design your own dish, and compare it to the parabolic dish and other shapes with the software. On step 1 there is a zipped folder for download. It contains an art of illusion scenefile. Art of illusion is the modeling and animation software I used. It is easier to learn than its competitors and it is free. The folder also contains a html file for almost automatic tabulating of your results and comparison with other reflector shapes. I have "starter" jpg images for when you create series of 10 images for comparison. I hope to put in a help html file too but thats all for now. To test it, you do need to download art of illusion too. I know this type of project can be a bit of a pain but with feedback, I can refine it. And where else do you have free tools to test solar reflectors? https://www.instructables.com/id/Use_software_to_design_a_better_solar_cooker/I hope that this will grow. A guy in Finland has already done a rudimentary "sun engine" that will do the shadows from a day as an extension to this project! That could be used to design passive solar houses and to site vegetable and fruit gardens in the best spots. (Depending on the seasons and day length, shadow patterns from trees and houses are very different). This is not something you can imagine just from surveying a site! Anyway, hopefully I will get some input.The instructable has grown and changed a lot as I have improved the scenefile. There are certainly parts that need trimming now. Hopefully I get round to it in the next couple of days. Brian

Topic by gaiatechnician 


Is corrugated plastic (the type commonly used for signs) a good covering for a greenhouse?

I'm in the planning phase of a greenhouse next spring and I'm wondering if the corrugated plastic that you usually see election signs made of would be good for a greenhouse covering. Has anybody tried this? If so, could you post your results? Here's some information I've come up with already: 1) Corrugated plastic is relatively cheap as dirt compared to glass and corrugated polycarbonate panels marketed under "Palruf" and "Suntuf". 2) There is a greenhouse covering marketed as "Solexx" that appears to be nothing more than corrugated plastic and is claimed to be superior to glass and polycarbonate panels. It's also very very expensive. 3) Solexx panels are claimed to diffuse the light coming into the greenhouse. This is supposed to be better for the plants than direct light from glass or polycarbonate. Below is an excerpt from the Solexx website: "How does light diffusion affect plant growth? Plants create food from light so the type of light they receive is important. Plants exposed to direct light (no diffusion) produce a majority of their food from the top leaves facing the sun. The select leaves absorbing the sun energy do most of the work while the shaded leaves do very little. Direct light also creates excessive heat which causes plant stress. When a plant is immersed in diffused light, all the leaves can photosynthesize resulting in more food production and healthier, fuller plant development. In addition, the upper leaves of the plant receive less intense light which means they will not suffer from plant stress caused by sun burn and excessive transpiration. " Again ,if anyone has tried using corrugated plastic as a covering for a greenhouse could you please share your results? If anyone has their own comment or prediction please share it. If not, I plan on conducting an experiment to test the performance of different greenhouse materials on plant growth. I may have to use artificial light instead of sunlight however, since the growing season here is coming to an end.

Question by EcoMotive   |  last reply


need ideas on greenhouse

Hi there,I live in Boston, MA and I am looking for some advice on Greenhouse construction for winter gardening only (and vegetables that are appropriate for that as well). I am looking to build a greenhouse that I can put up in the fall and take down in the spring for growing a winter garden. It will have to be able to be taken apart into its components and stored in a shed in summer months since my family has no need for it then. Due to the fact that it will be used in the winter, it will have to be highly insulated and have a heat sink that will be able to help maintain a constant growing temperature for the plants inside. Ideally I would like to avoid expending much energy heating the greenhouse. I am, of course, also doing this on a budget. Here is what I have come up with so far. 1. I will use triple-wall or 5 wall polycarbonate panels for the walls of the greenhouse2. I have found a few insulating products that look like they could be useful3. I am thinking of using a solar collector water heater as part of the heat sink- easy to construct on my own : https://www.instructables.com/id/Solar-Thermal-Water-Heater-For-Less-Than-Five-Doll/ that could circulate hot water into the heat sink4. I am learning about heat sinks and thinking that I want to use the simplest design and organic materials (mud, rocks, or water) to hold the heat during the day and release it at night.5. The greenhouse footprint can’t be larger than 8’ x 10’ 6. I prefer the simplest construction that meets my needs (and the easiest to put up and take down)Questions that I have:1. What are the possibilities for using compost as a source of heat?2. What about a PVC frame?3. How would I circulate hot water through the heat sink?4. What are methods to reduce daily management of the project?5. Types of hinges to use?6. What type of material should I place the greenhouse on?- it will be sited on the concrete area around our swimming pool and I don’t know what sort of insulation is necessary after that. I had the idea of wood pallets with insulation inside them but that may not be enough at all.7. Any ideas of ways to re-use materials to do this cheaply and reduce waste?8. Any suggestions on the optimal shape of the greenhouse roof/sides to increase heat retention and circulation of warmer air.9. Any suggestions of retailers that might have the materials that I am looking for.Some links that have been useful so far:http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/solar-gh.html#storagehttp://growerssupply.com/farm/supplies/cat1;gs1_greenhouse_building_materials;gs1_corrugated_sheets_panels.html

Topic by ocea46   |  last reply


Colossal (to me, anyway) Compost Kerfuffle

[warning: contains some rant-like content]I am so angry that I can't see straight. My apartment building has a Community Garden, which is good. Our rules and guidelines which are especially emphatic about keeping the gardens all natural and organic, and chemical and pesticide-free. To this end, there is an "Approved Garden Products" list specifying the chemicals and fertilizers that may be used in the gardens. The list includes "Walt's" brand organic fertilizer, "Cedar Grove" compost, and six product made by Miracle-Gro.I had two 4' x 5' plots in the Community Gardens last year, which I heavily amended with the compost from my worm bins. I submitted a request to have an organic fertilizer mix that I have on hand added to the approved list, but the only response I received was another employee telling me: "I emailed Jane (not her real name) about it, and she emailed back to tell to you that Walt's is the best one to use." I should have followed up on this, but was too angry and aghast to speak to Jane about it immediately, and later never did get around to grasping that particular nettle.This year I'm doing just one 4' x 5' plot. I dug in some compost on Sunday, and on Tuesday I received the following letter (all names have been changed for internet purposes):Dear Ms. Gorfram,I wanted to follow up with you regarding an email I received about "homemade" compost that you may be using in your garden.The garden agreement has specific items that can be used in the garden, unless you are using a combination of those ingredients, your "homemade" compost hasn't been approved yet. If you would like to submit the ingredients of your compost for review we can take a look at it and try to get it on the list as well. In the mean time please use only the Cedar Grove compost or any other product on the approved list.We appreciate you help in this matter.Sincerely,Jane Doe,Property Manager(Spelling and punctuation very much hers, very much verbatim)She insulted my compost. She accused me of violating the gardening agreement. She is demanding that I list every last darned thing that I ever put into my compost and submit it to her for approval. She appears to be confusing my compost with the fertilizer that I asked to have added to the approved list. She either does not necessarily believe that I do make my own compost, or she is misusing quotation marks to indicate emphasis. ...She insulted my compost!Not wanting to alienate the manager of my apartment building by telling her that she is a slavering ignoramus who does not know the difference between compost and fertilizer, I responded with the following:In re: your letter of June 9, 2009Dear Ms. Doe,Perhaps there is some misunderstanding about my use of soil amendments in my Community Garden plot.The compost that I use in my garden plot contains no chemicals or pesticides. It is made entirely from vegetable waste from my kitchen and garden, to which I add water and locally native earthworms. It is my understanding that this sort of bulk organic matter does not need to be reviewed for the Approved Garden Products list. In answer to a related question asked at the July 15, 2008, Community Gardener's Meeting, John Galt (n.b. Jane Doe's boss) said, "As long as it doesn't contain pesticides or chemicals, you don't need to tell us about it."The email your letter refers to may have been in regard to my August, 2008 request to have "Dr. Earth Organic 7" fertilizer added to the Approved Gardening Products list. For your convenience, I have attached a new copy of the information about "Dr. Earth Organic 7" and its ingredients that I submitted with my request. I look forward to receiving approval of "Dr. Earth Organic 7" for use in the Community Gardens, or a statement of your reasons for denying this request, soon.Thank you,Evelyn Q. GorframAm I nuts? Should I be this mad? Should I tell her to take her 20 square feet of soil and suggest where she might put them? Should I demand that we duel at dawn unless she publicly retracts her dread insults to my compost?

Topic by Gorfram   |  last reply


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

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