After seeing this table that turned out to be $100k I thought it would make a nice console table I needed so I spec'd one out in photoshop and although i had to make some adjustments on the fly, it came out pretty well. Overall everthing cost me about $25 but could be a little more if you don't have some of the little things needed.
Things you'll need:
2"x8"x12' (cut down to 2 58" peices) $11
(3) 2"x4"x8' (check for straightness and no twists) $9
1.5", 2" & 2.5" wood screws
drill & bits
10" miter saw
clamps/vise or my stanley folding workbench
6" L bracket (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Z-MA...
wood pegs or dowel (mine are 3/8")
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These are my photoshop measurements. They are all accurate except in my case the 12" from the edge where the legs are suppose to meet were more like 9". not sure how this could be. I could have measure it wrong in photoshop but I just centered in on the top and all went well.
Lay your 2 58" sections on a workbench or sawhorse and drill the hole size of your wooden pegs on the inner sides of each board. I used 4 and with some wood glue and overnight clamping, it was very solid with no concern they would seperate. Before applying glue, put the sections together and make sure they are level. if needed, you can bore out the holes. Dont worry if the pegs are a little loose. A little wood glue will fix that issue when you're leveled out and its clamped together.
first pic: attach your cut peices and refer to the initial photoshop sketch for where the perpendicular section will meet. it will be 27.5" from the bottom. I used (2) 2.5" screws and wood glue with a wooden peg for added support since this is where all of the weight will be focused.
take your leg sections and put a peice of wood at the point they meet to raise them up. (important note for the 4 bottom leg peices: on the 45* bevel cut at the tip will also have a 10* miter cut. this is so that the legs flare outward for added balance [see first pic]. 2 leg peices should have a 10* miter cut and 2 leg peices should have a -10* miter cut all with a 45* bevel cut)
Now predrill some holes and use 1.5" or 2" deck screws with some wood glue.
Do the same for the other half of the leg section.
now edge the table top (upside down) against the wall for added support and a guide so that the legs dont spread outside the table top. the point on the leg section should be centered as shown in pic 2. check your centering with the legs and top and mark it out on the table top. from the outer edge mine was about 1" from the edge and 9" from the side edge. predrill some holes and apply some wood glue. I used a 2.5" screw going straight down and 1.5" screws going at a 45* angle. Make sure not to predrill or screw in too deep where it will puncture the table top. rotate everything and apply the other half of the legs.
After everything is glued and screwed down, check the height of the legs from the table top and levels of each. If needed, sand down the bottom of the legs to even them out.
This is where things went wrong. for some reason the L bracket is not completely flush. I'm not sure how this happened since the 10* miter cut should have prevented this, but I'm still learning and creating this from a sketch so "live and learn". Ill figure it out another time. But its fine, I only ended needing 4 of the holes to support it and after screwing it in, it was more than enough. This thing is rock solid and ain't going nowhere.
Lay the L bracket down and mark out 4 holes. Drill through the wood and use some 2" nut and bolt screws with lock washers. Mine looked like #10's. Don't tighten them just yet as you'll need to remove it anyways when you stain or paint this.
Once its all leveled, sanded and woodfilled if that's your preference, leave it overnight for the glue to dry and get ready for some staining or painting tomorrow.
I hope you like it and your build goes smoothly. Don't forget, measure twice, cut once. :)