2 Tap Cornelius Kegerator




My friend Nate and I are home brewers. It's a great hobby that results in a product you can share with friends and family. If you haven't tried brewing your own beer I strongly recommend you give it a shot.

Recently we decided that we were tired of bottle conditioning our beer ( a 1 to 2 week process that gets you carbonated beer) it's long and boring and we were sick of it. The solution? KEG IT! Kegging your beer means that instead of cleaning 36-50 bottles you clean a single keg and your liquid lines. Commercial kegs are great and all, but they are not easily re-fillable at home with your own stock. Home brewers solve this problem with Cornelius kegs. The great thing about these is their ease of use, and that their tall instead of fat. A mini-fridge used as a kegerator can often hold 2 Cornelius Kegs where it could only hold a single quarter barrel commercial keg. You end up with 2 types of beer, more volume of beer, and it tastes better too.

The downside? Pain to the pocket book. If you buy everything new your looking at between $450 and $600.

Oh ya'... you'll also be needing 10 gallons of beer =)

Step 1: Get Your Stuff Together:

There's tons of information out there as to how to modify various mini-fridges. We're going to cover one specific fridge. Ladies and gentlemen, this is the Sanyo 4912 M. We got ours at best buy, but look around and you can likely find it elsewhere also. The Key to the fridge is it's height and it's total lack of a freezer. Most mini fridges use a freezer as part of the cooling system, and if you get one with a freezer you'll likely have to bend it out of the way which may damage the cooling system and render your investment useless. Corny kegs are 25" tall and 8" in diameter (You'll need at least another 2 inches of height for disconnects and hoses), so if you can't find this mini-fridge you'll have an idea of what to look for.

Basically the plan is to remove the plastic top, reinforce the area under the plastic lid with a board to make sure the tap has a nice solid base it's on top of. And then we drill a 2 1/2 inch hole right in the center of the top (Yes towards the back is nicer, don't do it I'll get into that later). Our hole is going to go through the plastic lid, our support board, the metal top of the fridge, the foam insulation, and the plastic interior.

So total what you need:
Sanyo 4912 M Mini-fridge (the 491x line all should work)
4x 10-24 2.5" Machine screws.
4x 10-24 acorn nuts.
4x washers that are as wide as possible.
Silicone Sealant
2.5" hole saw that is rated for soft metal (don't just get a wood one)
2 tap 3" diameter chrome tower with faucets.

2x 5 gallon ball lock cornelius kegs
2x liquid ball lock disconnects (barbed or threaded, threaded will be easier to clean, but also means get extra stuff to hook your lines up)
2x gas ball lock disconnects(barbed or threaded, threaded will be easier to clean, but also means get extra stuff to hook your lines up)
5 lb CO2 tank
Dual Gage CO2 regulator
Wye splitter with 2 gas shut off valves
Lines to connect regulator to the disconnects
2x tap handles
2x ear clamps for the beer lines (depends on the hose size that comes with the tower, call the shop your ordering from for details).

All of the stuff in the 2nd group is typically found in a 2 keg refrigerator conversion kit. You can get these from multiple online suppliers. Do yourself a favor and don't order off their website. Give them a call on the phone. Most of these online suppliers are regular stores that just have a nice website to go with it. When you call you should easily be able to get a person on the phone. The 2 keg fridge conversion kits come out a lot cheaper than buying everything in parts. Call them on the phone and have them remove the shanks (these are tubes meant to go through the fridge door and connect a faucet too) and faucets. In their place have them add the chrome tower which comes with it's own faucets. Doing it this way will likely save you something between $40 and $60. Midwest Supplies did this for us and I've heard of other places doing this sort of thing for other people as well.

Step 2: Remove the Plastic Top

First real step is to remove the plastic lid of the mini-fridge. Grab a phillips head screw driver and go after the 3 screws on the back and the 4 screws under the rim of the door.

Step 3: Remove Plastic Fins Under the Lid.

Next grab a utility knife and remove plastic fins from the bottom of the lid. We're looking to remove all the fins that create X patterns in the center of the lid, as well as the rectangular ones to the front and rear of that area. This should be an 8" by 11" area. We want the side fins left in place to help hold the board we'll be using in position under the plastic lid. We're removing the sections to the front and rear in order to use a longer board so that when we pull or push on the tap handles there's more working against the leverage. The idea is that we'll get a better more stable feel out of the tower during use if we don't have plastic flexing underneath it but instead have a solid board thats sealed and screwed into place.

Step 4: Find the Cooling Line.

The reason we're going to be going right down the center of the top is because there's a cooling line running from one side of the right to left sides of the fridge along the top. This line is inside the foam insulation and if we just drill our hole to pass the beer lines anywhere we feel like we are at a high risk of hitting the line and making the fridge useless.

To easily find the line sprinkle (or spray if you've got a spritz bottle of some sort) water onto the exposed metal top of the fridge, plug it in and turn it on full blast. You'll see a section of the fridge will dry fast than the rest, and amazingly it should be a single line running parallel to the back of the fridge about 8 inches away from the edge. I took a photo of this, but it didn't come out very well. Try it and you'll see what I mean though. Worst case scenario, you know why not to drill at the rear of the fridge, and you can draw a line 9 inches (give yourself some room please) from the back of the fridge and make sure your drilled holes don't cross this line.

Step 5: Hole Time.

Next you'll be sliding the board into place. I had to tape it into position first to make sure it wouldn't drop out of position while I was flipping the plastic lid over again and putting it back into place on the fridge. Either have someone hold the lid in place, or screw it back in to make sure it doesn't move. Then use a 3/16th inch drill bit to make yourself a whole right down the center of the top. Most hole saws have a center bit to them, and we can use this whole as an initial gide for that bit to make sure we're centered properly.

Now hook up your 2.5 inch hole saw and set it into position and cut through the plastic lid, pull the circle you just cut out off the top, and do the same for the wooden board underneath. After pulling out the wooden circle we'll be on the metal top of the fridge. This is why you want to make sure your hole saw is rated for metal, the wooden ones wont cut it worth a dang, and you'll warp the metal from all the heat it'll generate as you waste your time grinding into the surface.

Before you try and cut through the metal of the top it's a good idea to remove the plastic top and the wooden board again to give the saw some room. The hole saw will have left a small hole you can use as a guide in the top of the metal when you cut through the wood all the way. After cutting through the metal top, pull that circle away and then you can drill all the way through the foam insulation and the plastic interior of the fridge. If you finish the cut and don't see anything that looks like a pipe split or cracked in the foam, then your set and the fridge will still work when we put it all together.

Step 6: More Drilling...

Yes I know I stuck this first image on the last step as well. Deal.

The tap tower comes with a rubber gasket that is used to insulate the area around the base of the tower as it presses into the top of the fridge (or counter for some home installs). The great thing about this is that the holes in this gasket are already in position for the screws, which means we can use it as a guide for figuring out where to drill next.

Start out by placing the gasket down and carefully positioning it so that the holes are lined up so that their parallel to the sides of the fridge. If their not aligned properly the tap tower will be on crooked when we put everything together. I strongly recommend taking Norm's advice and measure twice before drilling.

Congrats, you're now done with all the hard stuff. That's right, this is seriously that easy to do.

Step 7: Glue and Screw.

Glue down the wooden board with the sealant making sure that it's lined up properly with the holes we've drilled., then go ahead and put the lid and board back onto the fridge and pass the 10-24 screws through the entire thing and make sure everything fits fine.

Next we'll pass the screws up through the fridge with a washer in place to make sure we don't overly damage the plastic, up through the top and we can then set the tower in place. Go ahead and pass the tubes from the tower down into the fridge and then attach the tower to the screws using the acorn nuts. Happily the screws are just the right length with the nuts to make a nice clean finished look.

Step 8: Cut the Lines.

That's right, we're cutting the lines. The tap tower's end with hook ups for commercial kegs. Which while nice wont even fit into this fridge. Seriously if you wanted to use those you should have bought a different fridge. This bad boy is designed to hold home brew!

So cut the ends off the lines and then attach liquid ball lock disconnects. This amounts to shoving the line onto the barb and crimping it in place. If your using threaded connectors you'll need to attach the beer lines to the barb on the end of that and then screw those into the disconnects. A lot of the time I hear about people's threaded connectors leaking. This is simply because they don't have the things screwed into the disconnects tightly enough. So if your using MFL threaded connectors grab a wrnech and tighten them up well.

Don't bother buying a crimper for this sort of thing, you can use a set of wire cutters and it works perfectly.

Step 9: A Small Problem...

So by now I'm sure you've tried setting everything into the fridge and found a problem... The door wont close! It's actually a very easy fix. First off a lot of people try to fit the CO2 tank into the back directly behind one of the kegs. This wont work. You need to position it between the two kegs with the regulator set up so the adjustment screw is coming straight out at you and is essentially "upside down" (Seriously see the picture bellow or it'll just sound crazy. This way everything will fit in there just fine. The adjustment screw will fit just fine resting on top of one of the kegs. The height of the thing comes out just right so that the bottom of the CO2 tank will be resting on the small ledge in the back of the fridge, the canister will be held in place by the sides of the two kegs, and the regulator's adjustment screw will be just fine and shouldn't be damaged at all.

That solves half the problem, but the door still wont close. Turns out that the only problem is the bottom shelf on the door. The other shelves are no problem and I use them to hold my yeast and hops for brewing, and the pop (Yes it's Pop, I'm from Michigan damn-it) dispenser holds some Pepsi or Coke for my friends when we don't feel like a brewski. Simply pull out the bottom shelf that runs the length of the fridge and the door will close just fine.

Alternatively you can turn the shelf sideways so that it's flush with the black plastic of the door and it'll fit just fine. I just have mine shoved in there like that to hold some micro-brewed beers. A few other people have drilled holes for the stubs of the shelf to grip into the door properly and you wont have to worry about it falling out.

Step 10: Brew Some Beer.

If for some reason you haven't already done it and have a set of 2 batches waiting, go brew two batches of beer. If you don't know how to brew beer, go search the Internet there's tons of information on it out there, and while the initial equipment cost is kinda' high, a normal batch for me comes out to around $0.50 to $0.75 a glass. Compare that to the cost of most 6 packs and realize that what your making with home brew is typically higher quality, and is going to taste better than most store bought beer and it's a clear win. Plus it's great bragging rights when someone comes over and is enjoying a glass and wants to know where you bought it. Plus if you're on Instuctables I kinda' figure you for a do-it-yourself-er anyway.

Normally when home brewing you go from the primary or secondary fermenter to a bottling bucket with some priming sugar in it to get the beer carbonated over the a 1-2 week period. With a keg system you can instead just transfer the beer to the keg, force carbonate and enjoy.

Step 11: Using the Kegerator

Once you transfer the beer into the keg you'll want to make sure to get all the oxygen out of the top of the keg. If you don't the beer will Oxidize and taste nasty and skunky in less than a day. To do this grab your CO2 tank and set it to around 30-40 PSI. Hook the tank up to the keg's gas in post and open up the valve. You'll hear the gas moving into the keg easily, when it stops close the valve, and pull the pressure release valve on the top of the keg. Close the pressure release valve and re-fill the top of the keg with CO2 again, repeat this process 4-5 times to get all of the oxygen out. CO2 is a denser gas than O2 and will push it all out of the valve with no problem. We're using the 30-40 PSI range on the regulator for 2 reasons: 1) This will fill up the top of the tank faster and I'm lazy and don't like waiting a long time. And 2) The higher pressure will also force the lid of the corny keg up and give it a nice tight seal. If your still hearing gas escape after it gets a blast of CO2 at that pressure then you'll have to release the pressure in the keg and re-close the lid to try and get a better seal on it.

After the keg is sealed, and the O2 is out of the system stick it in the fridge. To cool down to serving temp (I use the warmest setting on my fridge which is about right for most ales). Now there's only one problem and that's that our beer isn't carbonated yet. When bottling home brew, brewers normally add some sugar for the yeast to eat up in the bottle, since the bottle is capped the CO2 the yeast produce can't escpae or do anything but get absorbed into the beer, presto you've got foamy beer. With this keg system we've expressly NOT done this. The priming sugar process is often inconsistent, so we'll be "Force Carbonating" the beer.

There's 2 methods for this. One is fast and a big cheat (That I highly support). And the other is much more correct, but takes almost as long as bottle conditioning.

The slow method is simply finding out what how many volumes of CO2 you need (Depends on the style of beer, though for most it's 2.5) and setting the Pressure of the keg correctly. For instance 2.5 volumes of CO2 at 40 degrees F is a pressure setting of bout 11 PSI there's all sorts of charts and calculators for this online, I use this one. Once the pressure is set just set the kegs in the fridge and leave them alone for a week or so, the beer will naturally absorb the gas with no problem.

The fast method is to first get your beer cold, so get it into the keg, and then shove it in the fridge over night without gas hooked up. The next day when your beer is cold hook the gas up at 40 PSI and wait until you stop hearing it fill the tank. Disconnect the gas, DO NOT LEAVE IT HOOKED UP, leaving the gas line connected after we've filled the tank to 40 PSI is dangerous and should not be done. With the gas line disconnected roll and shake the entire keg for at least 45 seconds to dissolve the gas into the beer. Re-connect the gas line and repeat the process twice, being sure to disconnect the gas line before shaking the keg. This should get you to right about 2.4-2.6 volumes of CO2 depending on how well you shook the keg. You can now set the CO2 tank to the correct PSI (as from the slow method) and hook everything up and in your fridge. Give the beer at least 30 main to settle down before dispensing your first glass.

To clean the kegerator there's several specialty cleaners you can use, I prefer just using PBW (which you can get from most brew supply shops and websites) making about 2 gallons of it and putting it into a keg. Seal the keg and give it a good shake for a few minutes (a good seal is important or you'll get PBW everywhere) and then I hook that keg up to the fridge and I use the faucets to empty it. This way PBW cleans the inside of my beer lines for me. Lastly I take the faucets off the kegerator and take them apart to soak in some PBW and I use a small brush to scrub them down.

The specialty cleaners work great but most sanitizers will work fine, but be sure of a few things 1) Some sanitizers need a rinse after being used and are otherwise poisonous. 2) Some sanitizers are not for use on metal, for instance bleach will corrode the inside of the keg and damage the faucets. So be sure to follow all instructions for what your using and talk to your home brew supply shop about what should work for you.

Step 12: Enjoy!

You've got a kegerator, and you've got beer, and now you know how to combine the two... why are you still reading this? Go relax and have a home brew!



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    17 Discussions


    4 years ago

    All said and done how much did this cost without the kegs


    10 years ago on Introduction

    I've recently made a new mini fridge kegerator out of the Danby DAR440BL it's a bit tighter fit on the sides, but there are no coolant lines running along the top of the fridge (confirmed from talking to the manufacturer on the telephone, another home brewer who used this fridge, and looking at the manual for it which actually has a nice diagram of it.) so you can put the taps along the back of the fridge to make it look nicer. When using the DAR440BL you can skip all the stuff about the plastic top and putting the board into place for extra support as it doesn't have the plastic top and you'll just be flush with the metal top of the fridge. You'll also have to be really careful when using the hole saw on the top of the fridge or it'll scratch up the top. The final alteration is that you'll have to remove the plastic insert of the doorway that holds pop cans, it's to big and will prevent the door from closing properly. You can remove it by pulling the plastic stripping aside and unscrewing it from the frame. If you just screw the stripping back in the door wont seal properly, so what we did this time was use a dremel to cut out the part of the plastic insert that goes under the stripping to support it into the right shape, make sure to get it all in one piece if you can. Then re-attach the stripping to the door frame with the remains of the plastic insert in place to help it keep a tight seal and everything should be set. I'll post some photos of my new fridge if anyone wants them but you should be pretty set with just these instructions since it's not a huge modification to the plans to use this separate fridge.

    3 replies

    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    Would it help to lay down a layer of masking tape on the top of fridge and drill through that?

    Wally Kunzg0mikese

    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    I also just bought a DAR440BL. Great news about no cooling lines on top. I'd would also like to see photos.

    Thanks from a Canadian beer fan!

    Super Awesome post! it inspired me to do this.. I just bought the DAR440BL and I noticed two things..

    1. there is a light on the top of the fridge.. wouldn't drilling a whole mess this up?

    2. can you post pics of what you did for the door stripping? I see on my door that you can pull back the stripping to unscrew the soda bottle insert thing.. but not sure if I understand what you mean by using a dremal to cut away the sides for support.

    If you are ever in LA you are welcome to unlimited taps from my keg brotha!!


    8 years ago on Step 11

    Nicely put together. I am envious of anyone with the organization to put one of these up. I have made several keg-orators in my time, I usually use either a full-sized fridge and put the taps in the door, or I dismember an older style fridge with cooling and expansion fins and build an entire new box out of wood and Styrofoam making what amounts to a bar with a cooling cabinet underneath and a tap tower coming out of the surface.
    I recommend that the CO2 bottle be placed outside the fridge and a small hole drilled in the side to allow the CO2 line to get in. Cold liquid carbonates better, but warm CO2 expands and pressurizes better so it lasts longer. Cold CO2 will run out of pressure before you have fully run out of the gas. Also the seals in the regulators prefer to be at room temperature and to be kept dry.


    10 years ago on Step 1

    for carbonation- I use natural methods rather then CO2


    10 years ago on Step 1

    Great Instructable- for me, well I haven't got a large income, or a packed wallet, so I took an easy method. Search for 'soda fountain' instructables, and theres a basic system you can make using an electric two way pump. In a matchbox, take a mini fridge, load a sealed container of your choice into it, drill fit and mount a fountain pump to the top, fit the hoses, make it airtight- done!


    10 years ago on Step 11

    Great instructable. Question about Fast carbonation and the oxygen removal. Should you do the 40psi - oxygen purge first thing? Then leave it setting in the fridge overnight before shaking for a fast carbonation? Thanks,

    1 reply

    Reply 10 years ago on Introduction

    That is indeed exactly what I do. Purging the O2 needs to be done immediately to prevent off flavors from oxidation. And it's MUCH easier to force carb beer (or any liquid) when it's cold.


    11 years ago on Introduction

    Nice, I needed something like this. Didn't know that it would be this straight forward. Also, if you hang out around colleges, students tend to get rid of a lot of mini fridges at the end of the year. I myself sold a 4-year old fridge like this for $40 when I graduated.

    1 reply

    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    Yeah it's pretty straight forward. I know a guy that left the plastic lid off of his setup and made a nice stained wood one with room for his drip try. Lots of stuff you can do to customize it. The only tricky thing is making sure you don't cut any of the refrigerator's functional parts when you drill.


    11 years ago on Introduction

    I make my own soda (pop) and force carbonate it in a way identical to this. I tend to crank the pressure up to around 60 PSI and shake it until I hear the regulator (mostly) stop hissing. I'm wondering why it's so dangerous to leave the gas lines connected while shaking the keg. Is it just because you're using standard vinyl tubing? Because I do use braided tubing which is rated for higher pressure. I dispense the soda at 15 PSI if you're curious. Great Instructable by the way. Also, if your corney kegs don't have a pressure release valve, like mine don't. You can purge air by simply connecting the gas line, turning on the gas slowly without the lid on, let the gas run for a few seconds, and close the lid. Of course air doesn't foul soda like it fouls beer so my method might not be sufficient. Again, great Instructable.

    2 replies

    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    Your method of purging air would be just fine for beer also, though I'd run it for more than a few seconds (like say 10-12). The reason I stress disconnecting the gas lines so much when force carbonating is because the line can catch on something (like your hand or your foot) and possibly injure you. if it catches on something like a chair leg it can damage the gas disconnect, or even the keg itself which is not a good thing when dealing with something pressurized. The last danger is that while shaking the keg it's easy to let liquid up into the gas line which if it reaches the regulator can damage the regulator. If your comfortable with your method go for it, but I believe in safety first. Do you make your own soda from a kit? Or are you using cared sugar water with your own added spices and flavorings?


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    I see. You make good points. I agree that safety should always come first; a little common sense goes a long way. In my setup I use a full refrigerator, three kegs on the inside and the CO2 tank and regulator on the outside. This isolates any "vibrations" in the lines from shaking from getting to the regulator and tank because the line goes through the fridge wall. There is also a significant "uphill" portion that any liquid would have to make it through to get back to the regulator. Although you make a very good point that it's imperative to avoid liquid making it back to the regulator. Not only could it foul up the regulator but mine is mostly brass and brass (or copper) is leached by continuous contact with carbonated liquid and can make you very sick.

    Also, when I shake my soda to carbonate it I'm not exactly doing a martini style shake. I simply rest the keg horizontally on my knee and roll it back and forth not more than maybe five inches. You just need to get it sloshing around and you'll hear your regulator hissing away. I've found that you don't have to kill yourself shaking.

    Carbonating soda has an advantage over carbonating beer in that over-carbonation is less of a problem. It's hard for a pop to be too fizzy but an over carbonated beer will produce foam which is a major drag. Along the same thought process: I'm trying to get as much CO2 as possible into my soda, you're trying to get just the right amount of CO2 in your beer. You're method is surely more exact than mine.

    If you like Cream Soda then you can make easy and ridiculously cheap soda. Cream Soda is only vanilla extract, sugar, and carbonated water. For other flavors I go to http://prairiemoon.biz/homemadesoda.html for flavor concentrates. They have something like 60 flavors. My favorite is black cherry. Just follow their mixing instructions; it's only flavor concentrate, sugar, and carbonated water.


    11 years ago on Introduction

    great job! My buddies and I homebrew too. We used the same mini fridge to make a "kegerator" under my one friends' bar. Two taps as well! Again, great job!