Introduction: 3 IN ONE MITER SAW STATION
Building this 3 in one miter station will make you enjoy your miter saw even more. You'll be able to cut fast and safe with this jig. If you don't have a miter saw station, this is a great alternative. It has a small footprint, which makes it easy to store if you need to detach it from the saw. I wish I would have created one of these along time ago; I am just excited it's done now. The best part of all this I have free plans to build your own.
I called this the 3 in one miter saw station, but there are at least five key benefits here.
- Make repeatable cuts with the added stop block.
- Cut small pieces safely with a hold-down clamp.
- Improve productivity by adding the angle setter and cut the angles you need.
- Get clean cuts with little to no tear-out with this jig.
- It also acts as an extension wing to your miter saw.
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3/4'' Plywood and 1 by 2 stock
(1) 48’’ Universal T-Track https://amzn.to/2w2Y9nN
(1) 48’’ Universal T-Track with hold down clamp kit https://amzn.to/2TcYD2F
#6 (3/8’’) Screws used to secure the T-Track
M4 - Thread insert https://amzn.to/3brXkoL
M4 - Screws for insert https://amzn.to/3bty3e0
Miter saw https://homedepot.sjv.io/xrz1R
Digital Protractor (Angle Finder) https://amzn.to/2TdnzbG
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Step 2: Cut the Parts for the Miter Saw Station
After gathering all your materials, start by taking a few measurements of your saw. Measure the depth of the miter saw base, then measure the height of the fence. Once you have these measurements, you can rip down a sheet of plywood on the table saw, or you can use a circular saw to cut the parts.
The entire jig was built from ¾" plywood, that's including the accessory pieces like the stock block and the angle setter. For those small parts, I used a one by 2 Oak stock.
Step 3: Build the Miter Saw Fence
I doubled up on the fence section to make the jig more rigid. If you want to scale it back, a single sheet will work just fine.
Glue and clamp the two parts for the fence. After allowing enough time for the glue to set up, route a dado for the T-Track in the face of the fence. The T-Track can be placed on top of the fence or face.
Step 4: Cut the Slots for the T-Track in the Base
I wanted to be a bit conservative with the way i used that each track in this project, they are not cheap. I could have routed slot for the T-Track and make that span the entire width of the base. Instead, I went about half the distance. For me, this worked out well.
After the routing out the slot for the T-Track, I used a chisel to square up the round end. As I mentioned in the video, I only routed it one track here, but later, I added a second one. That was an afterthought. So add the two tracks while you're at it is crucial to the angle setter.
Finally, I secured the fence to the base using wood glue. Use clamps to hold this, then make sure you use a square and check the entire span. Let this sit and allow the glue to set up.
Step 5: Making the Miter Stop Block and Angle Setter
Making the miter saw stop block is quite simple. I glued two 1" by 2" lumber to create an L-shape. The wood glue should be plenty strong, but you can add screws or even dowels if you like.
Next, place the stop block on the fence then mark the very center of the stop block where it crosses path with the T-Track. With that mark, drill a 5/6th hole for the T-bolt to pass through. For the angle setter, I made a long hole on one end by drilling several holes and chiseled them out. You can use a file to clean this up. Now, on the opposite end, I made one hole for pivoting the angle setter. I do feel and upgrade to this is by having two long holes, one on each end. The jig attachment will be more versatile.
Step 6: Add the Thread Insert to the Miter Station
In the video, I added regular screws to hold the jig on the miter saw. That was a temporary solution because I didn't have the proper length screws at the time, so i had to order him. Using regular screws as a way to fasten the jig to the saw is fine, but if you want to add and remove the jig all the time; eventually, the holes will be reamed out. So the best solution here is to add threaded inserts.
The first thing you want to do is use a square to check your saw fully squared. Check the blade to the base and then the blade to the fence. Next, place your jig on saw now decide which side you want the jig to favor. The jig can be centered up with the saw or favor left or right of the blade. I am right-handed, so I prefer to have my materials to favor the left-hand side of the saw.
Some miter saws come with holes in the fence already. You can utilize those if possible, in the occasion your saw does not have holes; it's totally up to you, but you can drill holes in the fence. If you do not want to do that, then you can find another way to secure the jig safely.
Assuming you have holes, you can then clamp the jig to the saw, then pass a screw through the holes and tap it to mark the back of the jig.
Now drill a hole big enough for the threaded insert, then install the inserts. Make sure the inserts are below the surface of the plywood. Once you have the insert in place, you can return to jig to the miter saw and secure it. Note, use four screws to secure the jig. Just in case you cut through, the jig will be firmly secured.
Before cutting into the jig, pull the saw down until it touches the plywood base and fence. Once again, double-check to make sure your saw is squared to the jig fence and the base. Finally, cut into the jig by pulling the saw down.
Step 7: Sand the Miter Saw Station
Give the station a quick Sand remove the sharp edges and round over the corners. You can apply finishing wax to finish off the jig. One thing to keep in mind if you are going to add the metal measuring tape hold off on this step until you lay the adhesive measuring tape
Step 8: Add All Accessories to the Miter Saw Station
If you haven't already, now is a good time to install the T-Tracks in the slots. It's really hard to find screws to secure T-Tracks. If I am placing these in 3/4in plywood, I used #6 X 3/8 flat head, Philips wood screws.
Install a metal measuring tape. These come with adhesion on the back, so it is quick and easy to peel and stick. It's not needed, but it's very convenient. There are two types of measuring tape you can add if your jig favors the right side, you will need a "left to right." If your jig is favoring the left, you want to pick up a right to left like what I used.
For the stop block, you need a T Bolt and a nob. The stop block will be a lifesaver; all you need to do is pick the measurement you want to set your stop block and make repeatable cuts.
For the angle setter, you need two tables and two knobs. The angle setter is the most versatile piece to this whole project, allowing you to cut just about any angle.
Hold down clamp
You will also need a hold on the clamp. The hold on the clamp is super important, especially if you want to cut small pieces. With this, you can cut safe without putting your fingers at risk.
So here you have it, the project is complete. Now, It's time to work. You'll be able to get a lot out of this jig clean cuts, safe cuts, repeatable cuts, and you'll be able to increase productivity by not having to remove the jig to make angle cuts.
It is essential for operation, but I think you will enjoy this too. I have a free set of plans you can download here. I hope you enjoy this post until next time enjoy.
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