3D Printed 1911




First off, I'd like to thank Rio Benson for making the absolutely amazing drawings of the 1911 which can be found here.

DISCLAIMER: I will not be held responsible for any damage done with this model.

When I started this project, it was really just one of those things to see if it could be done. I did not use Rio's personal models; Instead I used his drawings and made my own. Internally, the gun doesn't function. The trigger doesn't even move. Externally, the model is completely accurate with the exception of the slide stop. The only moving parts are the safety lock, hammer, slide and barrel. I also had to change a few dimensions due to the 3D printer tolerance so if CNC'd; it may not work together as well. If you plan to 3D print it, then you will most likely have to use your own. I know that some companies that function like Shapeways are cracking down on the dangers of printing functioning firearms and may not allow you to print this file. If you do have the ability to print this, I Highly recommend using bright colors for the barrel or even the entire gun. While no laws in the US prohibit having this model on your persons, there are multiple instances of people (especially children) being shot by police for waving around fake realistic weapons. For those of you who think they cannot handle the responsibility or plan on giving this to someone who cannot handle it or just have no need for a complicated replica, I have supplied a slide without a moving barrel.

For reference, this was printed on a Dimension BST 1200es. I edited the dimensions specific for this type of modeling. No sanding is required on any of the pieces. I will be unable to complete the model the way I would like so the files I have completed are now available.

Step 1: Safer Slide

Other than the fact there is no barrel altogether for this piece, it is exactly the same.

Step 2: Grips

Insert the "grip pegs" into each grip.  I recommend pushing the grip against a hard surface instead of pushing the peg into the grip.  This helps alleviate and disperse the stress on the plastic.  To attach the grips to the frame push the frame onto the grips.

Step 3: Closed Slide

If using the closed slide option, assembly is as easy as sliding the slide on to the frame.

Step 4: Open Slide

For the open slide option; you should attach the barrel link before inserting the barrel into the slide.  Remember to use the "barrel link to barrel" piece [For this assembly step I used an earlier model to take pictures.  The barrel has been reinforced so it should no longer break in the barrel link area]  When inserting the barrel into the slide, the barrel will not go smoothly.  You will have to tap it in with a mallet.  [Don't fret though because the slide has been designed to take a lot of pressure in the front while the barrel has been thickened to prevent snapping.  I have taken multiple barrels in and out of one specific slide and have yet to break either one]   Attach the slide just like the closed version, except now you need to position the barrel link so it lines up with the hole on the frame.  Once they are aligned, press the frame onto the "barrel link to frame" peg.

On this particular piece, I made the grooves in the barrel and slide so this model could be used to help someone understand how they interact with each other.  Moving the slide forward will engage the lugs and prevent it from continuing off of the frame, same in reverse.  I personally did not know how this worked until I was half way done with the model 

Step 5: Hammer/Safety Lock

By now the assembly is quite self explanatory.  I recommend doing the hammer first but the holes allow any order.  I designed the safety lock to be a tight fit so it springs back up when pushed into the safe mode.  For this to work properly, you will need to insert it in the locked position. 

Step 6: Conclusion/Future Steps

That's it.  Don't do anything stupid with this.  

I currently have a .stl file of the magazine but its just a solid block and it has no real locking function.  Until i figure out what exactly I want to do with it I'm  going to keep it off.

Once I have the magazine figured out, I plan to make it so pulling back the slide will eject a plastic shell casing.  I already have some ideas of how to go about it but it's not really the top of my priority list. 

Stay tuned

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80 Discussions


1 year ago

unprintable on any cheap 3d printer!

you need one of those big expensive ones:( BUT you did an amazing job on the making these models! can't wait for the bullet eject system or until the good 3d printers get under 700dollars so I can finally print this!!! :)

2 replies

Reply 6 weeks ago

I don't have a 3d printer at all, but i'm using Pepakura and it works just fine


Answer 6 days ago

He said it was fake and that the trigger doesn't even move.


Question 6 weeks ago

How can I get the magazine? what is the scale?!

I actually have a plastic replica so I can just measure it... if you want it i will try to post it soon


Question 2 months ago

Hello, can you post the solid block magazine? I started printing it as a gift for my brother and I really wanted it to be complete. Thanks


1 year ago

i started printing it, and i noticed a few things

the barrel is 15ish mm longer so you can have an orange tip
i had issues where pins and such are extremely tight fit, also my printer is not calibrated 100% but a lot of sanding and everything fits snug and magazine drops nicely and is baby bottom smooth.
mag catch hits the side grip had to carve a small groove.
and magazine spring pops out when out of rounds i might print a stop for that. but it functions.


1 year ago

its missing the parts that make the closed grip. its an assembly file and without the individual parts, im unable to access the ipt version of the gun

please update that if possible


2 years ago

Please help all of the parts are really really small how do i fix this?

1 reply

1 year ago

what a shame..i think this project is dead :(

... its cool but its a bad idea, its not traceable,cant be detected by metal detectors, plus its easy to dispose of after killing some one... so yeah don't do anything stupid with this

7 replies
Jarrod EllisRhetorical_Save

Reply 2 years ago

There is already 3D printed guns that can fire 22, all the way to 5.56, this would explode first shot....

No they haven't. If they did, it would require modifying the CAD files extensively, and adding a metal firing pin, and probably metal metal supports to hold the frame together.


Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

And a Fused Deposition Manurfacturing filimint that is 100s of times better then any thing on the market. or a DMLS printer

I debated responding to this since this isn't really the place, but I can't allow ignorance of basic firearm principles and forensics to continue to be spread.

No firearm is 'traceable' in the way you mean. Serial numbers don't solve crimes, and forensics must link the bullet's markings with the rifling of the barrel to prove any particular weapon fired a specific bullet. There is no national gun registry, and dear God, may it always be so. Canada abandoned it's gun registry program after realizing it had helped them solve exactly 0 crimes. They don't work, period, end of story. They only serve to disarm the citizenry.

No working firearm has ever been created that can't be detected by a metal detector. Don't believe medial falsehoods on this point. Even the 3D printed Liberator gun can be detected by metal detectors. It has metal parts, and ... surprise ... bullets are metal. Advanced polymer technology may at some point change this fact, but right now it is literally impossible.

Your third point is moot, since it is, in fact, impossible unless you bludgeon someone to death with it. Also, all firearms can be melted down into pools of liquid metal at home. People just don't do it, and no it isn't hard or expensive.

The only thing stupid you can do with this print is try to pass it off as real. A threat that exists with literally every toy, pellet, bb, or airsoft gun on the planet.