This 4-sided walk-in closet island is packed with storage solutions. Two sides have open shelving to store 32+ pairs of shoes. The other 2 sides have sliding barn doors for “hidden storage”. You can make the barn door hardware yourself, and I’ll show you how!
The overall dimension of this closet island are 32″ x 32″ x 30″.
You can get the build plans HERE.
Step 1: Tools & Materials
- 3/4 inch maple plywood - 4x8 sheets
- 1/4 inch birch plywood - 2x2 sheet
- 1”x2”x8’ select pine boards
- 2”x6”x6’ select pine boards
- 1-1/4” pocket screws https://amzn.to/2JJGRBb
- Shelf pins https://amzn.to/2xPLXHn
- Aluminum flat bar 1/8" x 8 feet https://amzn.to/2JAqzL5
- Nylon wheels https://amzn.to/2sLU5mG
- Nylon spacers https://bit.ly/2HFi3VU
- Self-drilling metal hex screws https://amzn.to/2sD7spX
- Hex screws https://amzn.to/2sSnjjZ
- Hex bolts https://amzn.to/2JMUHmv
- Flat washers https://amzn.to/2JDWyd8
- Lock nuts https://amzn.to/2Hp5Rc0
- Tabletop fasteners (Z-clips) https://amzn.to/2JqeEwd
- Brad nails https://amzn.to/2JgDP8p
- Wood glue https://amzn.to/2JhDiD9
- Black spray paint https://amzn.to/2l2iX5Z
- Enamel paint https://amzn.to/2HHpuvQ
- Wipe-on poly https://amzn.to/2Jn6l4a
- DryDex https://amzn.to/2JlZ0Sd
Step 2: Cabinet Frame Prep Work
The cabinet is fully assembled using 1-¼” pocket screws, but before assembling, I prepped all my parts for later on by making the shelf pin holes for all the adjustable shelves, and the slots to attach the top using Z-clips.
Next I pre-drilled all the pocket holes.
Step 3: Assemble the Cabinet
I assembled the walls to the back panels to make to U-shaped formations.
I then positioned both on top of my bottom panel and screwed them down with pocket screws.
Lastly I slipped in the middle divider and fastened it with pockets screws.
Step 4: Toe Kick
I clamped together the panels to form the toe kick base and assemble it with pocket screws.
I flipped the cabinet on its side and attached it to the underside of the cabinet using pocket hole screws, making sure to leave 1″ spacing on all sides.
Step 5: Face Framing
To dress up the cabinet a little, I decided to add some face framing made from 1×2 pine boards. I attached them with some glue and brad nails.
I also used the same method to cap the front side of all my long shelves.
Step 6: Build the Doors
To build the doors I used ¼ birch plywood as a backer, and added some 1×2 pine framing that I glued and nailed in from the back of the ¼ inch panel to create a 3D effect.
To add the diagonal piece, I simply laid my piece of wood on top of the door and lined up the corners, then traced my cut line with a ruler, lining it up visually. Not exact science, but it worked out perfectly.
I carried the piece over to my miter saw and adjusted the angle of the saw until it lined up with my marking.
Step 7: Paint Prep & Painting
Before moving onto paint, I filled all the nail holes and cracks using DryDex, a spackling that goes on pink and dries white.
Once dry, I sanded everything down until smooth using 120-grit sandpaper.
I vacuumed up all the dust and carried the base, shelves and doors out to my spray tent. I went with an alkyd enamel finish paint that I applied with my HomeRight Super Finish Max Extra HVLP paint sprayer. I applied 3 coats, lightly sanding with 320-grit sandpaper in between each coat.
Step 8: Build the Tabletop
I used finish pine to build the top, which means it’s already been jointed and planed square. Therefore all I need to do is cut the 2x6x6 boards in half so I’ll have six pieces.
I applied a generous amount of glue to all the edges with a glue brush and clamped the boards together to form the table top.
I used a wet rag to wipe of all the squeeze out before it had time to dry.
Step 9: Trim the Tabletop
I trimmed down and squared the tabletop by marking it with a T-square and using a straight edge and my circular saw to make the cut.
I then sanded it down to using 80-grit, the moving up to 120-grit and finally 180-grit.
To smooth the edges, I used my trim router with a round over bit to round over the edges, going around the tabletop in a counterclockwise direction.
Step 10: Tabletop Finish
To finish the top, I skipped the stain since I wanted a natural wood look and I decided to try out wipe-on poly for the first time. I applied 3 coats. For a smooth finish, I let each coat dry 24 hours, then lightly sanded it with 320-grit sandpaper before applying the next coat.
To attach the top to the cabinet, I used some tabletop fasteners, also called Z-clips. This will allow for wood movement as the tabletop expands and contracts with the seasons. I simply slipped them into the pre-cut slots and screwed them into the underside of the tabletop.
Step 11: Make the Barn Door Hardware
You could buy a small sliding barn door hardware kit, but I decided to make my own after watching a tutorial from Shanty-2-Chic.
Start by cutting the aluminum bar to length, using a hacksaw or a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. Use a file or sander to remove the jagged edges.
Drill a hole 1/2″ from each end of the 32″ rails using a metal drill bit. Drill a hole 1/2″ from the top of the shorter pieces (5″) that will be mounted to the doors.
Spray the rails and hardware with black paint.
Step 12: Mount the Barn Door Hardware
Assemble the barn door hardware: Hex bolt -> flat bar -> washer -> nylon wheel -> washer x2 -> lock nut.
Mount the hardware to the doors using self-drilling hex screws.
Mount the rail to the cabinet using 2″ hex screws and the nylon spacers.
Hang the doors on the railing.
Step 13: Get the Plans
That completes this build!
If you want to build this 4-sided island for yourself, you can get the plans here.
You'll also find more projects on my website at diymontreal.com projects like: