5 Old School Plumbing Tricks!

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Introduction: 5 Old School Plumbing Tricks!

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What's up everyone, just another plumbing tricks article and video for you guys, some of these tricks are suggestions from you guys, thank a lot and enjoy.

Step 1: BLACK THREADED STEEL

If you’re not used to working with thread black steel piping, here’s a neat trick that’ll save you time and money when working with ¾” and 1” piping. When taking your measurement, place your tape on the face of the fitting to the center of where your pipe needs to go and that’s your measurement, easy right?

Step 2: SECURE THAT PIPE

If you don’t have the right size pipe clamp, here’s an old school trick that’ll help you secure your pipe temporarily until you get the right clamp. Grab your adjustable wrench, and bend the tail-end of the clip this will make it fit a smaller pipe and will get you out of trouble at no extra cost if you’re stuck.

Step 3: NO MORE CROOKED CUTS

Whenever cutting any type of pipe, they need to be cut straight. If you don’t have a wrap around, here’s a good alternative that’ll give you similar results. Get yourself a hose clamp that fits pipe size and scribe your line to be cut, a straight line guaranteed every time.

Step 4: FITTING-SAVER

There are many ways to salvage a glued fitting as seen in my previous articles, but here’s another cool way to get it done. Get yourself a heat gun, and heat the assembly till it becomes soft enough to insert a pair of needle nose pliers in between the fitting and the pipe. The, grasp the pipe really good and twist it, it should come right out. Use this method in a well-ventilated area.

Step 5: DON'T WASTE THAT DOPE!

And as the last trick, getting to the bottom of your dope cans isn’t always easy, you could cut them in half or simply pound the can till you can reach the bottom with the brush saving you money in the long run.

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    16 Discussions

    I'm sorry, but your hint for BLACK THREADED STEEL makes no sense to me at all.

    8 more answers

    Let me explain. When working with threaded pipes, normally you must calculate and remove penetration of the fittings to get the right measurments. With 3/4" and 1" pipes and fittings, all you need to do is measure from the face of the fitting you are starting from to the center of your change in direction, and that is the lenght of pipe you need to use.

    Alright, a couple more questions. Why does this only work with 3/4" and 1" pipe, especially since 3/4" has 11 threads per inch and 1" has 8 threads per inch? Also, what if you're not working with a 90° fitting, such as a 45° elbow, or a coupling, or a motor or pump housing, or an electrical box, or...?

    I truly am not trying to start a flame war here. It's just that I owned a hardware store for 30 years and threaded pipe most of those days and while I worked for my dad for years before that. I've cut & threaded 150 pieces of pipe in one day (yeah, special ordered & used up fifty 21 foot pieces of pipe!) I've helped thousands of customers figure out how long the pieces need to be to work for their project, often with VERY little room for error. You just have to know the "rules" for figuring the takeup.

    It makes no sense here to me as well, I do hear what you're saying it just does not compute. We used BP in many electrical applications up to 4 inches, (what a mess it is even with electric threaders). So now that I no longer do it, whre does the extra length magically come from?

    This is not a dig or a flame/troll. I just am not following the logic.

    One day jest fer giggles I will try the heat on PVC trick, like others I thought it literally unset the plastic allowing the edges to fuse into each other kinda like the sections of semi conducter in a PNP or NPN transistor ot a diode.

    You'll have to excuse my drawing skills, but what he is saying is that the measurement from one thread depth to the other (A), which is the standard way of measuring, is the same as measuring from the face of one fitting to the center line of the pipe for the next fitting (B). At least for 3/4" and 1" pipe A=B, which should be much easier to measure.

    20180813_112226.jpg

    That is exactly what I should have done for people to better understand what I was doing! If you don't mind, i'll add this to the instructable ;)

    Done, thanks a lot once again!

    Took a little grasping, but this makes a lot of sense

    Is tip #4 talking about PVC fittings? I was under the impression (possibly wrong) that the solvent cement bonds the plastic (kind of like metal welding). Does the glue actually melt?

    4 more answers

    I don’t know exactly how it happens or works but this does work with pvc. I think it is like tearing apart wood at the glue line.....it occurs right next to it. Regardless, I have used a torch and heated a socket wrench then shoved it in a pipe to heat things then removed from fitting. Then re appplied new pipe and no leaks

    I would need to verify that, but I am pretty sure this diesn't work with cements ;)

    What is it intended to work with?

    The glue I used was ABS solvent cement, which is a glue and it worked. You have to be careful not to break the fitting when doing this, so it does require a little bit of finessing, but you'll get it done ;)

    Re DOPE: would it help to make the stuff flow readily by warming the can with a heat gun?

    1 more answer

    It would help to make it softer but, you might have dripping after since it'll be more in a liquid state ;)