Introduction: 9 Voltatron
I modified a pair of gloves so that they could power other modified objects simply by touching them.
Step 1: The Gloves
I knew that my end goal was to power objects I could by touching them, so the gloves needed to be finished first. I found a pair of Carhart gloves on sale for $12 at Ace Hardware.
Next I cut out a piece of mdf board (medium density fiberboard) that was roughly the same thickness as a 9volt battery in the shape of a battery with a plug on it. I used a small vacuum form table to mold two pieces of styrene into a rough shape. Then I cut the sheets with the impressions into ergonomic shapes that could fit on the back of my hands.
I used black elastic and two snaps as straps to hold them on top of my hands.
Then I soldered short lengths of wire to bent pieces of steel. I bet them into U-shapes with a flare at the ends so that my fingers could slide into them. Then I soldered that wire to the loose wires of my 9v battery plugs. This turned out to be kind of problematic because when other people tried them on they accidentally pulled the wire away from the battery and broke the wires. Still working on that.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Because you want to be able to use both hands be sure that your positive and negative wires are on opposite sides on your right and left hands. Also be sure that the contact points correspond to both of your gloves when you modify each of them.
Step 2: Finding Objects and Repurposing Them
I knew I had to find objects that ran on 9volts or there abouts. This was not as easy as it sounds. Naturally I began with a fire alarm. I began by soldering wire to the positive and negative contacts of the alarm. Then with separate wire I soldered some wire to two small squares of steel.
I found that the round box of a burnable CD container is just the right size for the fire alarm. Not only that, but the container has a nub sticking up for the center spindle. I use this nub as the button to activate 'test' function on the alarm.
I cut that center spindle off and cut off about an inch from the top and wedged it in the 'button' area of the lid. This will push down on the 'test' button.
Then I punched two small holes in the lid with a pushpin. I slid the wire attached to the metal squares through to the inside. Then I twisted the wires with the corresponding wires that are soldered to the fire alarm. (sorry I don't have more pics)
Remember to have a designated side for your + and - contact points so that they match up with your gloves. I always put my + contact on the left side and - on the right side. No reason other than the fact that the positive charge is on the index finger of my right glove and the middle finger of my left glove.
Then I put the lid on the base and used clear silicone caulk to attach the container to my welded frame.
Step 3: Door Alarm
This one was the easiest to modify. All I did was get a common motion activated door alarm and removed ring on the top. I soldered wire to the contacts on the inside. Cut small holes for the wire to come out through. Then soldered the other end of the wires to metal rectangles. Then I used electrical tape to affix them to the outside.
Double check that your positive and negative contacts correspond with your gloves.
I had a large spring that happened to fit right into the holes left by the doorknob ring. I finished it off by spot-welding it to the frame.
Step 4: School Bell
This one was also quite easy. The wire I had purchased for connections was some cheap 22ga doorbell wire. The school bell I found was in the doorbell section and runs off 10volts. I figured this would be okay since I knew I wouldn't overload the bell even if the power was a little weak.
I wrapped the wire around the screws on the back and lightly soldered them. I left myself a length of several feet of wire which I then soldered to two squares of steel. I caulked them to a folded piece of styrene so that I could clip it onto my shirt.
I thought that the bell looked a bit dull so I chrome sprayed the bell and housing with chrome spray to spruce it up.
I also spot welded the bell to the frame.
For some reason, during the testing phase it worked remarkably. But when it came to presenting the bell rang extremely weekly. I tried changing batteries, but I think I just wasn't making good contact. I also wonder if maybe the contact points on the back were touching the large frame. I am not certain.
Step 5: The RC Hummer
I found a small RC Hummer on sale for $8 at radio shack. I took the outer shell off so it was just the bare guts of the machine. I put it back in the stylish Hummer box. I thought this was funny. I cut the bottom of the box so that it would wedge perfectly onto the steel flat on my frame.
I put two screws in the joysticks of the controller to act as contact points. Then I soldered wire to the contacts around the back and wrapped the wire around the bottom of the screws.
I need to cut grooves into the contacts on my gloves because it is really hard to get a handle on the joysticks at the same time. For some reason it also takes a second or two to actually activate the remote controller. They kept pulling the metal contacts off my gloves. It was this that made me tape the contacts onto my gloves as you see in the glove picture. This had the drawback of reducing the size of the actual contact area on the gloves.
I silicone caulked the remote to the frame.
Step 6: Grande Finalle
Well, here I am pretending to use it :). It works pretty well. I'd like to modify it to make it more permanent, but I was going sloppy with this one and I had fun with it. I would like to solve the school bell issue and the remote issue. My favorite part is still the remote car. It makes the whole tale bounce slightly and it doesn't really go anywhere.