You might need to mute signals without having to change the amplitude or intensity with an attenuator. Or maybe a loop is starting to get on your nerves. For that reason a mute switch module will come in handy.
For this instructable I have created a module with 4 mute switches.
What you will need:
- Solder iron
- Solder tin
- Conductive wire
- Cutting knife
- A couple of sockets (I used 8 from thonk: https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/3-5mm-jacks/)
- A couple of switches (I had 4 ON/ON switches lying around, which you can get at any electronic component store)
- A perfboard (optional)
- Panel (I created one from plexiglass, 2 or 2,5 mm)
- Drill with 3M and 6M bit
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Step 1: Prepare Your Components
- Take a piece of perfboard and cut it to the right size (if you use a cutting knife, you can slice a couple of times and then break the perfboard). I cut it in a way so the components just fit onto the perfboard, and there is a little space left (on the left side of the components on the picture) so the switch can lean onto it.
- Place the sockets onto the perfboard (facing the same direction), and solder them onto it.
Depending on the size of your components, you can decide on the amount of HP for the module. I have used 5HP width, which is 1 inch or 25,4 mm (1HP is equal to 0,2 inch). More info on this here: http://www.doepfer.de/a100_man/a100m_e.htm
- Now that you have a perfboard with sockets it's easier to estimate what the placing should be for all the components on the front panel. (The thonkiconn sockets have the inputs to one side when placed horizontally, so remember this when locating the spots for the sockets). Also remember that you need to stay away from the top and bottom of the panel for about 1 cm as this is where the mounting rails will be!
- Draw lines on the frontpanel to indicate your component placement. The hole for the switch will be somewhere in the middle of the horizontal lines of the sockets. (As you can see on the picture I have shifted the holes to one side a little bit, this will make it seem centred when it's finished).
- Drill the holes for the mounting screws (with the 3M drill) with its centre about 7,5mm from the left side and 3mm from the top or bottom of the panel.
Step 2: Placement and Soldering
Now that you have all your components ready, you can place them on the front panel. Be sure to put the switches on first, because of the extra piece of perfboard on one side. If you haven't exactly calculated the holes on the front panel (like I haven't), it might be convenient to cut the parts of the perfboard in between the pairs of sockets, as this will reduce stress on the components.
- Place the perfboards so the GND pins of the sockets are facing outwards.
- If you have placed the components on the frontpanel, you can now decide if you want up to be on, or down to be on. (I chose up to be on)
There are a couple of things to remember here:
- You are looking at it from the rear end, (might not be a problem for you, but it surely confused me a couple of times). Be sure to remember if you want the switch on the right or left side of the sockets.
- Depending on what kind of switch you use the pinout might differ. I used ON/ON switches, which (as you can see in the picture) connects the upper two pins together when down, and the lower two pins together when up. Just remember that the middle is always the output. So if you are not sure how to connect them, you can always find a description on the component (like ON/ON or ON/OFF) and find the right connection on google. Or just try one and see what happens.
- So with that in mind, you can see that:
The middle pin (of the switch) is connected to the lower socket signal pin.
The upper pin (of the switch) is connected to both GND pins of the sockets.
The lower pin (of the switch) is connected to the upper socket signal pin.
That's it! Have fun killing those signals!
Be sure to check out our fabricated modules here: www.livestockelectronics.com
And our other instructables here: https://www.instructables.com/member/LiveStock+Ele...