In anticipation of the upcoming release of Assassin’s Creed Origins, we are honoring AC Syndicate by sharing how we made the remarkable jacket Evie Frye wears in the game.
We are proud to present this Instructable as deep down fans.
Evie Frye, arguably the cooler twin. Her default outfit used in promotion is just stunning! It embodies the practicality of a stealthy assassin with an elegant Victorian twist!
Step 1: Tools and Materials
- Sewing Machine
- Plier/hammers etc.
- Sewing pins
- Measuring Tape
- UHU Glue
- Masking tape
- Cheap fabric to test with
- Patterning paper (look out for free gift wrapping paper in the mall)
- Black and red fabric (we used denim of different thickness)
- Floral Fabric
- Black Artificial Leather
- Foam/sponge for padding
- Velcro (Optional)
- Elastic band cord for clothing
- Leather Strips
- Beige/vanilla thread (thick)
- Black thread
- Red thread
- 44 decorative buttons
Step 2: Planning & Patterning
Pattern Vs Seam Allowance:
- Make sure to keep in mind to add an extra border to each pattern you cutout, this will be the seam allowance, you can add 1cm to each measurement for this purpose.
- Start from a trench coat/jacket that you own.
- Trace pattern of each parts of of the coat on the sketching paper
- Measure the rough dimension as reference Map the template (see vector image) on the traced pattern.
- Cut the final pattern and keep them nicely.
- Pin your patterns to the black fabric for easy cutting
- Hand stitch the cutout pieces loosely so they hold together (for easier sewing later on and for test fitting before sewing)
- Once you have the pieces hand-stitched together, trace with a chalk where the attaching details pieces will be on, and carefully cutout the back for the tail part to fit in, again leaving extra 1cm for folding in and adding a seam line
- Fold out the collar part and pin it, you may also iron it to keep it folded on the outside
Step 3: Torso Deco Layers
The details will be added on by layers
- Based on chalk lines, trace the shape of the deco layers on paper
- For example, cut an Inverse “L” shape paper(silver) according to the chalkline on the front panels, for the floral patterned fabric
- Repeat the procedures for all deco layer including the shoulders, back and the lap portion
Step 4: Leather Strips
Most of the deco layers are framed by leather strip, we found that 1cm width matches the concept art!
Tinsy Drops of UHU glue every 10cm helps hold the leather strip in place, preparing it for stitching later. feel free to clamp the leather strip on the fabric with clothespin.
Step 5: Do Lining Like a Pro!!
Linings are the long straight chain of stitches, they ensure tight grip across layers of fabric. They also look like strings of pearls laying on the surface of your fabric! Here are some noobs ~ pro tips of nailing it every time! Use masking tape as a ruler for extra precision during stitching.
Note: As you can see from the third picture, I didn't use the masking tape method for the frontal panel linings and they didn't turn out as precise and neat looking as on the rest of the jacket and sleeves. I highly encourage you to use the masking tape method for satisfying results.
- Apply the Masking tape in a straight line right where you want the lining to be.
- Visualize where you will want the long lining
- Mask out the right of the imaginary line with white mask tape
- leave 1 mm gap, showing the black fabric texture
- mask out the rest on the left with white masking tape
- your imaginary lines will be sharp and clear, you can sew with ease like a train on a rail.
Step 6: The Sleeves
The sleeves are made up of four parts.
Upper arm, puff princess sleeve, lower arm and cuffs.
- Upper arm part
- Pattern the upper arm part
- Sew the leather shoulder pads on
- With the help of masking tape and a ruler measure half a cm away from the edges in order to do the beige lining
- Draw two lines of 1x1cm square grids on a paper
- Use the drawing as template for sewing the square pattern (optional: using a foam fabric underneath to make the grids puff out on the fabric)
- Sew the front and back pieces of the sleeves together
- Add the elastic band inside (as pictured) to make the sleeve hug nicely around your arm
Puff princess sleeve
- Pattern out the wavy bit with the aid of a paper ruler
- Cut out a strip as long as needed
- Fold it like the pattern with the help of pins
- Sew along the pinned line
- Finally sew the two ends together to close it
- Pattern the pieces
- Again, with the help of masking tape and a ruler measure half a cm away from the edges in order to do the beige lining (if needed for more precision, you can use a colored pencil to draw the line half a cm away from the edges)
- Keep in mind the seam allowance for the sleeves! Measure the lining to be half a cm away from the seam allowance line, not the edge of the fabric! (see pictures for reference)
- Once you have the beige lining on both parts of the back and front sleeve pieces, you can sew them together
- With the help of a pencil draw and cutout the pattern
- Repeat the same steps as on previous parts of the sleeves to achieve the beige linings looking nice
- Remember to stop the linings midway through on the inner side of the cuffs, because we are going to be sewing those together (the pinned part as seen on the last picture) to get the desired effect on Evie's cuffs
Finish the sleeves by sewing all the separate pieces together, attaching them to the main part of the jacket.
Step 7: Collar and Quilting
- Pattern the top piece of the collar (you can use newspaper for this one as it is more flexible to bend, making the testing process easier and more comfortable around your neck.)
- If you need help with the shape you can look at the pictures for reference
- Cut the shape out of the fabrics, one foam/sponge and two leather pieces, make these 2 cm wider than the foam/sponge as seen on the photo, so you can fold the edges in later
There are decorative grid quilting on Evie’s collar. The priority is to scale the squares so the grid pattern resemble the original design. We have screen matched the pattern and you can see the attached illustration. We basically want 4cm-sided square grid in a 45 degree alignment, with a 1 cm rim on the collar. the 4cm X 4cm square is just a reference point, it may differ depending on your height.
Start by sewing on the right side of the collar, before the back piece! The collar should be assembled on the jacket in this order:
Right side, back piece, left side.
- Print the illustration in A4 format.
- Layer the leather on top of the foam/sponge fabric
- Overlay the illustration on one of the Leather pieces on top of the foam/sponge Leaving 1cm seam allowance on the edges
- Pin the illustration in place
- Sew over each square lines on the illustration
- Once you've removed all the paper
- Fold the edges with glue, to make the sewing easier. You can also add sewing pins if necessary, remember to keep the 1cm seam allowance in mind at all times, and not to make the squares past that point!
- We are going to be using the masking tape method once again for the beige stitching
Step 8: Red Jacket Bottom Piece
Since the red part is attached to the bottom of the jacket, we must first obtain the shape of the black jacket
- Trace the bottom shape, only the right half (front+back) of the jacket after laying it flat,
- You can fold the seam line edges with the help of an iron to keep them in shape for easier sewing
- Make the black strips where the buttons are going to be on (I didn’t have the buttons at the time the photos were taken, apologies for not having a reference on these)
- Cut two 29cmx6cm pieces (for the back) and two 49cmx6cm pieces (for the front)
- Pin these to the red part folding the edges and securing them in place with the sewing pins
- Then sew these on the red parts
- We added stick-on velcro (not pictured) to the bottom inside of the jacket and to the back of the red pieces to make them detachable
Step 9: Eyelets
There are leather pads with eyelets on both sides of the waist, 2 column and 16 row of eyelets per piece.
- Trace and cut two 14cmx6cm pieces of leather for the eyelets
- With the help of masking tape and a ruler, layout the eyelets to be 1 cm between columns and 1.5 cm between rows
- Make holes with a leather puncher tool
- Add on the eyelets with a hammer or eyelet pliers (I tried both tools and personally find eyelet pliers have more precision in getting cleaner looking washers in the back)
- Lace the eyelets with nylon shoelaces
- Lace in a crossed pattern
- Knot the ends to secure the laces
- Burn and melt the end to prevent loose strands
- Fold the edges in, use pins to secure them on the jacket before sewing them on
The above steps can easily be adapted for making the corset in the back.
Step 10: Finishing Touches
The majority of the jacket is done, we still have the little tail/handkerchief in the back.
- Cut a 40cm x40 cm piece of leather
- Fold and Sew the1cm border to the back. Sew a lining along the borde about 5mm inwards
- Fold the square diagonally in half twice Iron the folded leather gently (put regular cloth/towel between the leather and the iron)
- Sew it on the back to the bottom of the jacket
Step 11: Hood Seals the Deal As Assassin
A finalized hood pattern is still a work in progress
You can use the pattern I made as a start but there will be a lot of tweaking needed as you pin and sew the two pieces together, you will have to adjust them to your liking and headsize
- Make a mark with chalk where the main shape of the hood ends and the scarf part starts
- Make the scarf as long as you like it to be in order to wrap comfortably around your neck, note: I ran out of test fabric, made mine too long (see on the pictures) and had to trim it later, my advice is to always use cheap test fabric as you are planning it out so you don't waste good fabric!
- Cut both parts of the hood one time with black fabric and one time with red fabric
- Sew the red parts on the back sides of the black parts With the help of a friend/boyfriend/family member, sew the two hood parts together with loose temporary stitches to secure them together while wearing it on, in order to adjust as you see fit
- Once you are happy with the shape, make the masking tape beige lining thingy again and sew the two parts of the hood together
- Feel the awesomeness of wearing Evie’s hood! You are officially a Victorian Assassin!
Note: Because I want to spend a lot of time with my boyfriend I didn’t got the embroidery done on the hood :P
Step 12: Putting It All Together
Thank you for reading this Instructable! I hope it gives you some useful sewing tips if you are looking to recreate this jacket or if you want to make any other character costume.
Please ask me anything if you have any doubts! :)
The brooch/buttons are 3D printed! we modeled the design in blender after the concept art and had it printed. For your convenience, you may find it on our Shapeways store We are very happy knowing more than 20 Evie cosplayers bought it from us and say it helped them a lot!! more durable than fabricating it with foam or worbla.
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