ARMTRONIX WIFI SINGLE Dimmer Board V0.2

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Armtronix Wifi dimmer is a IOT board it is designed for home automation.The features of the board are:

  1. Wireless control
  2. Small form factor
  3. On board AC to DC power supp1y 230VAC to 5V DC.
  4. DC virtual switch

The size of the board is 61.50mmX32mm, as its shown in diagram1 ,has a capacity to drive 1 Amps load. The board has the Wifi module and microcontroller(atmega328) which is used to control the triac through HTTP or MQTT. The board has DC virtual switch which can be used to control on and off.

The board also has Power module AC to DC of 100-240VAC to 5V up to 0.6A, triac BT136 and Terminal connector. There is Zero cross detection is also available.There is one triac used both for dimming and for switching.

Step 1: Header Details

The diagram2 gives the details of the headers and terminal blocks

To board 230VAC is applied to the input terminal block and load is applied to the output terminal block.

On the board J3 header is used for the dc virtual switch the header details can be referred form the diagram4.First pin is vcc3.3v, second pin is atmega pin pco for arduino programming we need to use A0 and third pin is ground .For dc virtual switch we are using only second pin i.e A0 and third pin i.e ground , this is mentioned in the diagram3 for connection of virtual switch.

Step 2: Programming Details

J1 Header is used to upload the firmware to ESP or atmega through the FTDI Module, details of headers can be found in the diagram4. After making connection, connect to the USB port to computer and intial we need to install the driver to detect it detect the com port , in this way user can upload the firmware.

To upload the new firmware to esp using FTDI make the following connection

  1. Connect the RX of FTDI to TXDE pin of J1
  2. Connect the TX of FTDI to RXDE pin of J1
  3. Connect the RTS of FTDI to RTSE pin of J1
  4. Connect the DTR of FTDI to DTRE pin of J1
  5. Connect the Vcc5V of FTDI to VCC5v pin of J1
  6. Connect the GND of FTDI to GND pin of J1

Similarly to upload the firmware to the atmega make the following connection

  1. Connect the RX of FTDI to TXDA pin of J1
  2. Connect the TX of FTDI to RXDA pin of J1
  3. Connect the DTR of FTDI to DTRApin of J1
  4. Connect the Vcc5V of FTDI to VCC5v pin of J1
  5. Connect the GND of FTDI to GND pin of J1

After programming both ESP and Atmega we have to establish connection between ESP and Atmega by shorting pins 3-4 of J1 header and 5-6 of J1 header using jumpers setting.

Step 3: Wiring

The wiring diagram is shown in the diagram3 to input terminal block 230VAC Phase(P) and Neutral(N) is given .The output can be used as dimmer to the dimmable light to control the intensity of light and also to control the speed of fan . The output also be controlled via DC virtual switch as shown in the diagram3 GPIO A0 second pin of J3 header of atmega is used for virtual switch and J3 header third pin Ground is also used to connect virtual switch.

For configuration refer this configuration link

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    28 Discussions

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    BenD177

    Question 13 days ago

    Hi I've just purchased one of these and the layout is slightly different, not a problem overall, but the programming pins are now only a 4x2 and not 5x2 as the diagram above. Do you have an up to date reference chart for the pins please! Thanks

    3 answers
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    BenD177BenD177

    Reply 13 days ago

    so pin configuration found, but the thing I can't work out is how to put this into flashing mode. I've tried ever combination of holding the button and power, as well as J1 jumper on and off. Every time, the little blue led just keeps intermittently flashing at me and the warning: espcomm_sync failed error means that something is wrong. I've got a UART with DTR and CTS (not RTA) but from my reading I think it's the same thing. Any help would be appreciated.

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    ArmtronixBenD177

    Reply 12 days ago

    It has the auto reset function circuit . So u don't need to press any button.
    From the above comment u have the wrong USB to uart converter , meaning u need DTR , RTS not CTS . RTS is not equal to CTS . Also the board comes pre loaded so u can first test the board than change the code .

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    VucomirI1Armtronix

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    Hi IOUNESSD,

    can you post the steps to flash Tasmota on the board, do you need to flash the Atmega also or just ESP?

    Thanks.
    Br,
    Vuko

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    ArmtronixVucomirI1

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    yes u have to flash both Atmega328p s well as esp8266
    both the links are above .
    To flash it you need to install arduino ide and esp8266 core
    along with couple of lib files .

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    VucomirI1Armtronix

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    Thanks,
    I tried to flash ESP and Atm but with no luck :(

    I get the following error when trying to flash ESP, I'm using this documentation for the pin https://d3s5r33r268y59.cloudfront.net/datasheets/... my version is Rev 0.3 and using a CP2102 USB-TTL to update the firmware


    avrdude: Version 6.3-20171130
    Copyright (c) 2000-2005 Brian Dean, http://www.bdmicro.com/
    Copyright (c) 2007-2014 Joerg Wunsch
    System wide configuration file is "C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/etc/avrdude.conf"
    Using Port : COM24
    Using Programmer : arduino
    Overriding Baud Rate : 115200
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 1 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 2 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 3 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 4 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 5 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 6 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 7 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 8 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 9 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding
    avrdude: stk500_getsync() attempt 10 of 10: not in sync: resp=0x2c
    avrdude done. Thank you.
    Problem uploading to board. See http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Troubleshooting#up... for suggestions.

    please let me know if you have any recommendations.

    Thanks.

    Untitled.png
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    ArmtronixVucomirI1

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    whcih pins of the cp2102 are you using . Many people try using CTS which wont work ,you need to use DTR and RTS ,make sure you are doing that . Also for esp12 use nodemcu 0.9 or 1.0 as the oard from board manager and for Atmega328p use Arduino uno . Also make sure you after connecting the us to uart comverter thet it prints something on the Serial console of arduino (set baud rate to 115200.

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    VucomirI1Armtronix

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    manage to flash ESP12 and Atmega 1 out of 2 boards are working, possible that I have managed to brake something with wrong wiring, will need to check that.
    do you have diagram of GPIO of the board?

    thanks for your help,

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    sujitkumarp

    Question 9 months ago on Step 3

    What do you mean by Virtual Switch ? Do I need to connect Physical Switch to On-OFF the device . Do Pull up - Pull Down resistor required (mention Size)?

    1 answer
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    Armtronixsujitkumarp

    Answer 9 months ago

    https://github.com/armtronix/Wifi-Single-Dimmer-Board/blob/master/Wifi-Single-Dimmer-Board/Document/A0004_Wifi_One_Dimmer_1A_Board.pdf
    Virtual switch/pot will act like a two way switch/pot but will use an adc/gpio of the microcontroller . The new design has a pull up resistor of 10k value so the pot connection has to be pull down type. There is a header (jumper placed such that the adc pin is pulled down to gnd ) which can be removed and replaced with a rotary switch with resistors (you can try with 10k good quality pot who resistance dosent change once set to a certain position, we have tried it but with pot dosent work very well as the resistance keeps changing due to which the virtual pot flag is triggered unintentionally so we recommend rotary switch with resistors )

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    JeroenV70

    Question 9 months ago on Step 3

    Hi,

    Received the board today.

    made a mistake with configuring WiFi.

    How can I reset the board to default, i.e. AP 192.168.4.1 ?

    Thanks!

    5 answers
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    ArmtronixJeroenV70

    Answer 9 months ago

    No that cannot be the issue as we have a lengthy password . R u trying http or mqtt mode . Also how are you checking if the device is connected or not

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    JeroenV70Armtronix

    Answer 9 months ago

    Hi,

    I run HTTP, I check the presence of the device at the routers management page.

    There I see the device is not given an IP-address, therefore I suspect a login issue at the WiFi network.

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    JeroenV70JeroenV70

    Answer 9 months ago

    Hi, It works now, and I can control the device using the browser.

    For some reason it was not listed in the routers management page as connected device, but as I now know the IP-address because I saw the device one time in the routers management page, I can use it even when it is not listed at the router..

    Strange, but it works!

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    ArmtronixJeroenV70

    Answer 9 months ago

    If u have configured it and it is connected to your WiFi network via http mode then on it's ip address it will show a clear config link just press it and wait for a while it will reboot and start hosting an ap.
    In case u have used mqtt mode on the topic the device has subscribed to just send a msg i.e Reset
    After sending it wait for a while and it should start hosting ap

    If u have entered wrong password but correct ssid then the board will try to connect to the ssid continuous .In this case the only way to reset it is to turn off your Ap/router which is hosting that ssid or at least get the device awAy from that ssid singal . On doing this it will start hosting an ap, set the correct settings and you are go to go

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    JeroenV70Armtronix

    Answer 9 months ago

    Hi, after switching off my ssid I could reconfigure the board.

    Still I have issues connecting it to my WiFi, could this be because my ssid password is 16 characters?

    I heard there are some issues with long passwords with certain firmware versions.