Adze From Broken Hammer Head (no Forging)

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Generaly confused. Secretly inspired.

Intro: Adze From Broken Hammer Head (no Forging)

Adze is a usefull tool. This one is made from broken masonry hammer. There's nothing more I can say to introduce this project, so let's just moove on.

Step 1:

I had this hammer head in my box of broken tools and at each time seeing it during the time I gradually planned it's transformation. And the time has come.

So firstly I roughly sketched out the design.

Step 2:

Then with an angle grinder I cut the eye area at an angle removing damaged parts.

At the last moment I decided to add a little beard underneath.

Step 3:

With a grinding disc I then cleaned the surface.

Step 4:

I rounded the area of the eyelet.

Step 5:

Then with 60P flap disk I smmothed the surface further.

Step 6:

Before going to finer disks I applied a rust transformer to stabilaze the spots that I won't be able to remove with grinding.

Step 7:

I did some filework on the eye. A little champher on the bottom edge for the head to sit comfortably on the handle. And also a widening towards the top portion for wedging.

Step 8:

Now with finer 80P and 100P flap wheels I'm refining the surface further.

After the flapwheels I'm using a sandpaper and doing it by hand, up to 500P grit.

Step 9:

Then I'm polishing the head with polishing compound.

Step 10:

To make a handle I'm going to use a piece of oak wood. It's a bit limited in size. so firstly I'm transefing it to paper and then on the paper I'm drawing the shape of the handle within the edges of the piece.

Step 11:

I'm cutting the shape of the handle out and transfering it to wood.

To cut thr handle out I'm using a jigsaw.

Step 12:

Then I'm cutting the piece lenghtvice to reduce the thickness.

A bowsaw is the best tool I have for this.

Step 13:

To rene the shape of the handle I'm using a small handplane and, after some sharpening, a drawknife.

Step 14:

I need create a narowing at the top portion of the handle so after implementing some sacred geometry I'm removing the excess material with a drawknife and a plane.

Step 15:

A naroowing of the other part was done with a chissel.

Step 16:

I'm rounding the top portion according to the shape of the head.

Step 17:

Then I'm working on the handle to bring it to its final shape. I don't have a rasp but I have this DIY sanding thing so I'm fine.

Step 18:

I'm marking the position of the head on the handle and creating a narrowing for the eye.

Step 19:

I cut it a bit too much so the head was sitting loosely. To fix it I'm gluing a strip of wood to make it thicker.

Step 20:

At this point I also noticed a couple of other problems. Firstly there was a gap between the beard on the head and a handle. So I gued a piece of wood to the hanle and then shaped it to fit.

Step 21:

The other problem was the way the head was finished. I wasn't too fanatic about the look of the tool since I'm going to use it anyway, but the flafwheel has left some notacible grooves on the surface and it bothered me.

So I used these sanding disks to smooth the surface. Up to 600 grit. But you won't see it on photo cause my camera doesn't understand what "macro" is.

Step 22:

Also I sharpened the edge.

I can predict someone saying that the steel on a hammer is too soft and it won't hold the edge propertly. The bottom part of the hammer (I mean a working part) is hardened. I can definitelly say this by how tough it was for grinding.

Step 23:

On the handle I'm cutting a slit for the wedge. Since the eye is so shallow and there's not enough wood to bend out I'm drilling a hole along the bottom of the slit. It should help the wood to spread out more easily.

Step 24:

The head is ready to be installed onto the handle. And it means that it's a time for a final sanding. It'a allways a good idea to wash your hands before final sanding.

I\m sanding the handle up to 500 grit.

Step 25:

The handle is going to be wedged two times. First time with a wooden wedge. I'm cutting it from a piece of wood, sanding to shape and driving it on glue to the slit.

Step 26:

While glue is drying I can make a pair of metal wedges that go next.

Some metall scrap, some filing, some cutting and we're done. These wedges go perpendicular to the wooden one. This way the handle is wedged in both dirrections and the head goes nowhere.

Step 27:

To finish the handle I'm usinf some old linseed oil.

Step 28:

The adze is finished now. I found a masonry hammer identical to what I used to make it. Now you can see what it was before.

Step 29:

Generally I'm very happy with the result. It looks great from wherever you look at it and performs it's job good. I'm glad that I have this tool now.

Thanks for your attention, this is it for now, and have a good adze.

You can also find me on facebook.

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    38 Discussions

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    stevemoseley

    2 months ago

    Great Instructable. Really well done. Feel like I was there with you through the project with the great pictures.

    Noticed a typo for the second word of step 24.

    Looking forward to your next build.

    2 replies
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    kwdailyWaldemar Sha

    Reply 4 weeks ago

    Also in steps 6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 24, and 27. Excellent project with awesome results, but a spell check would help this instructable out a lot.

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    viltwo

    8 weeks ago

    You could use a Maddox head as a start point and use a conventional handle to avoid the making of a handle. Plus a Maddox handle would be a long handled tools which could side in your production output of the adze. The curve on the Maddox head would lend itself to an easier method of hollowing bowls without having to forge a brick hammer head.

    1 reply
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    Waldemar Shaviltwo

    Reply 7 weeks ago

    Yes I'm concidering making another adze with old Soviet hammer (the picture) head as a start point (although I think this shape of hammer head is pretty much universal). One side curved, other - straight cutting edge.

    What gors about this particular project, it was a joy for me to design the whole tool concidering the way the head was dammaged. It was interesting challange, I liked it.

    1067266773_w640_h640_molotok_kruglyj.jpg
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    wd4usa

    8 weeks ago on Step 29

    Gorgeous final product! Great instructional presentation. Thank you!

    1 reply
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    Waldemar ShaGregS278

    Reply 8 weeks ago

    It gives a bit of additional support to head but mostly I thought about looks when implementing it.

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    scooters2

    8 weeks ago

    Very nice, looks great. A tool I used daily in the early 70's as a railroad section man in northern Vermont.

    1 reply