This mod to my airarms S200 was acomplished with little more than a drill, a router and a few hand tools.
1) As few mods to the gun as possible (I got it down to 3 wood screws)
2) Easy to adjust (1screw with a spring to return)
3) It must stay in alignment (After fitting I have never needed to readjust it)
4) It must look like part of the gun
Pic 1 before
Pic 2 after
Step 1: Off the Shelf
Like a lot of air gun shooters, as soon as I saw laser sights for sale I had to have one. What I purchased was a small black module with a choice of mounts, dovetail and scope rings, it contained a <5mw red laser a couple of button batteries and piece of wire with a pressure switch on the end.
.I first mounted it on top of the scope lined it up with the 3 fiddly little screwdriver slot screws put it in the soft case and went shooting. As soon as it was out of the cover I could see that the laser had moved…….I will not bore you with all the ways I tried to make this useable.
Step 2: I Can Do Better!
I realised the only way to get something workable was to make it myself. I had a good rifle to start on as the fore end of the S200 is flat, the perfect place to fit a laser.
I only used the red laser once and was not impressed, I could hardly see it in daylight so this mod needed a green laser.
so I purchased one like this.
Step 3: The Rest of the Parts
Block of Ash wood (nearest to correct colour I could find)
Black anodised 2mm aluminium (back panel from something I took apart)
Spring from a battery holder
Various 4mm screws and bolts
Cover from a pushbutton
½” fuel pipe clip
Other odds and ends
Step 4: Mount for Laser and Woodwork
I attached the fuel pipe clamp to the front of the laser with a pile of small washers each side for the pivot.
The button knob was stuck to a small square of aluminium.
I then cut the wooden block to the width of the fore end , length of the laser plus an inch and depth of laser plus ¾”.
I then marked out the centreline of the block and routed out a slot to be a tight fit on the laser, re-routed the middle section so that the laser was only tight at the front and back.
The pivot cross slot was cut to exactly the height and width of the pivot washers.
Other cuts were done for the trapped nuts each side at the front and for the adjuster at the bottom of the slot at the back.
A fixing plate was recessed into the top face at the back to slip over the wood screw in the fore end..
A hole was drilled in the side, opposite the push button on the laser and the diameter of the push button knob.
The piece of spring sits on the top of the laser and holds it down onto the adjustor.
Step 5: Adaptor to Fit Gun
I then cut a plate from the aluminium that screwed on the front of the block slipped over the air tank and was a good fit to the barrel.
pic 3 shows front plate trial fitted and rear fixing screw on the fore end.
Step 6: Final Assembly
The new fore end is keyhole slotted on at the back with 2 screws at the front that hold it secure.
second photo shows it working :)
Step 7: Adjustment and Use
Once the mod was finished setting up was a breeze, as I had mounted it perfectly straight first time no sideways adjustment was required. I set the elevation to centre the dot in the scope at 30m…I discovered that as the laser was mounted so far from the scope I could use it for rangefinding, a bonus!
The graph above shows the distances for each dot on the mildot scope.
I have shot targets from the hip with this! The laser point is so easy to see even in bright sunlight.
I have never had to adjust it or replace the battery in 3 years use.
Participated in the
Wicked Lasers Contest