Introduction: Alien Facehugger Pillow Pet
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My daughter is obsessed with the AvP game. She has beat it at least 20 times and loves to run around the house hissing and trying to run up walls like a Xenomorph. So for her 8th birthday I made her a plush Alien, and that lead to the idea for a facehugger pillow pet. But to make it a little more unique I added a egg shaped sleeping bag that could be rolled up and put in the tail.
Step 1: Picking Your Fabric.
This project takes a small amount of fabric, but the color and style is not something most would have lying around. I got my supplies at a fabric shop but even they didn't have exactly what I needed.
2 yards of tan/carmel shaggy minky fabric
1 yard of light tan or white micro fleece
1 yard of white muslin or any light colored thin fabric you have laying around
twin size lightweight batting (for quilts)
1 bag of pillow stuffing
Optional Egg Sleeping Bag
2 yards of black fabric that is at least 60 inches in width. I used a polyester that was very slippery to work with, if you aren't confident in your sewing skills I wouldn't suggest it.
2 yards of green fabric, also at least 60 inches in width. I used a lightweight cotton for this. It is not quite as soft on the skin as the rest of the fabrics in the project, but it sews very well.
Step 2: Other Supplies.
Sewing machine (helpful but not necessary)
Off-white or tan
Black (sleeping bag)
Green (sleeping bag)
White Velcro 3ft
Thin Black Ribbon (sleeping bag)
Step 3: Preping the Fabric.
If you are making the sleeping bag as well, prewash and iron your cotton unless you want a rumpled look.
If you had a limited selection in the fabric store like I did then you probably will need this step.
My store didn't have micro fleece in a light tan color so I got a package of tan Rit Fabric Dye. Follow the directions on the package.
Step 4: Make the Back
This project involves a lot of layers. This layering allows the body to take on more detail than a normal pillow or stuffed toy would be able to get otherwise.
Start with a 18"x21" rectangle of minky, a double layer of batting and muslin.
Drawing the pattern is easiest if you use the muslin. You won't see that fabric on the final project so you can use a marker to make your lines. Fold the muslin in half lengthwise making the 21" now 10 1/2". Use pins to keep the fabric together and draw half of the pattern onto the muslin. When you are happy with the drawing, flip the fabric over. You should be able to see your lines through the thin muslin. Trace your pattern and then unpin and lay flat. If you are using a thicker fabric that you cannot see through, try using a thick permant marker. Put the fabric on a piece of paper or two so you don't inadvertently draw on your table. Go over your pattern a few times to let the ink bleed through to the other half of your fabric
Layer your fabric with the minky right side down, then the double layer batting and then the muslin drawing side up.
Pin all of your fabrics together and start sewing.
When you have completely outlined the pattern, cut small slits in the muslin and stuff with..well stuffing.
Sew up the slits (by hand) and set aside.
Step 5: Make the Stomach
Start with a 17"x20" rectangle of micro fleece, and 8"x20" double layer of batting and muslin.
Once again draw your pattern the same as before.
Line up your batting and muslin at the bottom edge of the micro fleece and outline your pattern.
Slit the muslin and stuff.
Make the Proposcis cut out a rectangle of micro fleece and batting 4"x6".
Fold the right sides together so the 6" is now 3" and sew on the edge.
Turn half of the fabric inside out so there is micro fleece on both sides of your cylinder.
Hand sew the raw edge onto the stomach.
Step 6: Top of the Tail
The tail can be different lengths depending on whether you want to add the extra sleeping bag.
The size for my tail is the same height at my daughter plus 10", so it will be 68"
This will be another round of layering so cut out the same of batting, minky and muslin.
Your fabric will need to be 68" long and 8" wide.
You will need to mark it every 3 inches and sew a line across to bind your layers together and give the tail the segmented look.
If you have to use more than one length of fabric then start marking your 3" lines from that seam so it won't looked messed up in your final project.
Step 7: Underside of the Tail
The bottom of the tail is made up of two lengths of micro fleece. One is 6" in width and 60" long. The other is 3" in width and 50" long.
I had to learn the hard way that it is much easier to sew the Velcro on first before attaching it to the rest of the tail.
Cut your 3ft of Velcro in to even pieces around 4" each.
Measure 8" down from the top (the side you will be attaching to the body) and mark with a pin.
Attach your first piece of Velcro at your mark.
Measure 15" from the bottom of the 6" width and attach another piece of Velcro.
Evenly space the rest of your Velcro pieces in between these two.
Step 8: Putting the Body Together.
This part is easiest to do by hand.
Cut off the excess fabric so that you have a 1 inch selvage.
Cut into the corners without going past the stitching.
Line up your top and bottom wrong sides together.
Tuck in the selvage and sew away, both of these fabrics hide bad stitching very well.
Leave the bottom where the tail attaches open.
Step 9: Putting the Tail Together
Starting with the 6" wide micro fleece place the right sides together and sew together until you reach the last Velcro strip.
Completely attach the 3" strip to the right side.
Hand sew the tip of the tail by folding the mircofleece under to bring it to a point.
Do the same to the minky to form the end.
Step 10: Fingers
Cut out 8 of each piece and put them right sides together.
Sew one side together along the edge then pin the other edge and sew.
Turn inside out and stuff then hand sew the tips of the fingers.
Attach the fingers to the body by hand.
Measuring from the base, sew in lines at 3.5", 5", 8" and 9"
Step 11: Egg Sleeping Bag
I am showing this project in miniature so that the assembly is easier to understand.
Cut your black and green fabric to the height of the child (or adult) you are making this for. Edge A
The other edge should be at or more than 30 inches for a child. Edge B
Also cut out a double layer of batting the same size at your fabric.
Layer your fabric with the green and black right sides facing each other and the batting on the bottom. Pin along Edge A and sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Picture 3 & 4
Lay the fabric open like a book and then fold to the right side of the black is on the top and the batting is sandwiched in between both fabrics.
Pin along sewn edge and sew. Keep your non slippery fabric on the bottom.
Picture 6,7 & 8
Continue sewing (quilting) every 2 inches, leaving the last 2 inches on the opposite edge open.
Cut the batting out of the last 2 inches.
Place the sew edge into the place where you cut the batting out and pin together. Fold the green fabric and sew together the black fabric and batting along the top. You will probably have to remove a few stitches to fold the fabric down. Fold the green fabric back together and hand sew it for a finished edge.
Fold the unfinished edge under and pin. Hand sew for a nice finish.
Picture 12 & 13
Remove the pins and turn the sleeping bag inside out and repeat the last step with the black fabric.
Cut out a rectangle of black and green fabric that is 10" x 32" (or 2" longer than your Edge B). This will be the top of the egg.
Picture 15 & 16
Fold in half and pin. Then fold again leaving 1" to the side.
Cut at a 45º angle from the top left corner (shown in this picture as the middle because my fabric was to big). Repeat with the black fabric.
Picture 18 & 19
Put the fabric together right sides facing and sew with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Turn inside out.
Picture 20 & 21
Pin the black fabric to the top of sleeping bag with the points facing down. Sew along the top.
Picture 22 & 23
Turn the bag inside out and hand sew the green to the sleeping bag.
Picture 24& 25
Tuck the bottom points in to create a rounded bottom and enjoy your new sleeping bag!!
Enjoy your new friend, a much safer alternative to a real facehugger.
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