Aquarium LED Lighting || High Intensity || Enhance Fish Colour




Very fond of inventing stuff. Creation is what i believe. Relieve my creations and imagination wi...

Intro: Aquarium LED Lighting || High Intensity || Enhance Fish Colour

I am in constant implementation of LED's & i just love them. Aquarium is a great place i started with where i do lots of experiments not just LED's but rest too.

There are plenty of aquarium lighting ibles available including those are which includes plexi glass and hooking plenty of LEDs to get the effect and trust me they look good and plenty of time too and more probability of messing and maintenance ,moonlight is my favorite.

What this ible shows the same with less amount of hard-work :P 

NOTE : am extremely sorry for low resolution pics and video since am out of town and this is what i have in my dropbox. The effect is more visible in actuality.

This is the final output

Step 1: Requirements

1> LED's
1Watt LED (BLUE) x 2
1Watt LED (RED) x 2
(reason for choosing these two colors cause these give extremely nice purplish color which enhances Fish and ornaments color)

2> AC-DC Adapter

3> Connecting Wires

4> Glue 

5> Optional
Plexi glass
2small strips
(these are optional since designed can be tweaked to greater extent suiting ones needs)

Step 2: Schema - Circuitry

Red LED need different Voltage to LIT than BLUE. So, when red and blue are attached in parallel the one with Red will draw the entire current since have lowest voltage and will LIT and may burn. So rather than brainstorming with resistors what i found out is to use in series with other LEDs.

Now, in the schema we see a swap of both LED Blue on top in left and Red on top on right since using one type of LED at one end will concentrate the entire color to one side thus both colors might get visible and harder to mix. So, a swap will do a great job.

Since, now each parallel strip will need 9v to LIT bright.

In TOP View
The center rod is the aluminium rod which i pulled out from hanger. The two strips on which LEDs are attached are acrylic strips which will give them separation.

Step 3: Connection & Testing

As shown in the schema it is really easy to connect and test. If you notice that none of the LED are lit than terminals must be swapped. If either one strip of LED are lit than must look for connectivity with the other strip.

Please look into the images for clear understanding of those connections. Have added plenty of tags on images to get a clear picture and how i connected

Step 4: Final Result and Am IMPRESSED !!!!!!!!

The images are ripped from video so they are not clear and somewhat pixelated. The outcome is more attractive than what we see in images, this is cause of auto stabilization in my mobile.

Hope my ible will be able helpful to other.

Lastly, these lighting was done a year back and is still working great. One may replace these 4 LEDs with LED strips and can have full control over the color using those IR remote, will surely do this in coming few months and post an ible but surely the cost will increase but is way less than having a aquarium lights.



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    21 Discussions


    6 years ago on Step 4

    awesome, just what i was looking to do, now if i can just find where to buy those LED's as maplins do not stock them

    1 reply
    rc jedi

    6 years ago on Introduction

    as long as you drive them below their max current, a precise driver current controller won't be needed. besides, we wanna test stuff to destruction anyways, how else are we gonna learn the absolute? great instructible, i wanna do 1 too.

    1 reply

    6 years ago on Introduction

    It's a pretty cool idea - since the average lighting heats up and adds to evaporation. However - and I can't remember if they make a full spectrum LED or not - possibly they do. But fish and plant life need full spectrum light.

    So for the moment - it looks like it would be a great mood setting light for temporary use - perhaps at night or what ever - or to be used as in additon to the full spectrum florecents needed.

    personally I'd go for some underwater style LED lighting for effect.


    6 years ago on Introduction

    I'm sorry but this is not a good design at all! These LEDs need a driver to work properly. You have to power them with precise current/voltage. Right now, you're applying 9 volts on each pairs. Unless you're using really weird LEDs, the forward voltage of the red led must be around 3V and 4V for the blue led. With 9V, you will eventually burn the LEDs. It should also be specified in your instructable that all LEDs are different and the forward voltage and driving current in the LED datasheet should be respected.

    Also, with 1W LEDs, you need a heatsink! Those LEDs must become really hot and this will reduce their life time.

    Has your setup been running for a long time? I'm pretty sure it won't because you're overpowering them and there's no heatsink.

    5 replies

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    agreed. there was just no research done whatsoever on this. if you want to see how to really do it. go to reefcentral and search for the diy leds. at least have a driver or buck puck.


    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    If LED's were burning in few months or so then would have researched for sure.
    If my concept was to be out as commercial product then i must have researched.

    but none of these are happening so :(.

    and i cant really make you trust me that these LED's aren't burning atleast for a year.

    Now either my AC-DC adapter is good that's saving my LEDs
    OR my electricity source is good which is punching a nice non-spike current :)


    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Look am really not into electronics in depth am in IT so have superficial knowledge.

    But, working on LED's from past 2years and trying to understand so i may b wrong or may not be.

    Now this 1WATT LED require 3v and above to LIT its fullest will need between 4-5v. These LEDs heats up but not very HOT i can touch them even after its been lit for past 2hrs. Since its LED i even put them on day.

    Now since i was confused about how much to resistance to use for red and blue a blog specified that rather than brainstorming use them in series so i did it !

    And to prove that these wont burn i have not replaced a single LED from this circuit from past 1 year (BUILd on MID SEP 2011) daily i use them for more than 4hrs.

    And lastly about heatsink the star shape disk itself is a heat sink no need to use those huge aluminium blocks.


    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    For what it's worth, I think this is a great idea. Technicality aside, it I'm going to try something like this, myself. The aforementioned "experts" may be correct, but there's a nicer way to say it.

    Good effort, my friend. Keep it up.


    6 years ago on Introduction

    Hi, do you think it is a good idea to give the fishes only blue and red light?
    Think abou you must live only in this light, you will be crazy in 2 days.

    1 reply

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    In morning they get good sunlight ....... at night rather than CFL's its a good option. Still if you think one can use LED strips (RGB) with color controller and can give them different colors.

    Also,what i have heard is aquarium lights emits a particular spectrum which enhances their color. When i tried with CFL's about a month or so the goldfish even after giving good diet they turn to fade color so what i have to build was to enhance their color which was equivalent to aquarium lights. And using the blue and red led's have multiplied their color much more than aquarium lights.


    6 years ago on Step 4

    Here is my version, can place the lamp with slope, a plastic sheet to collect vapour/ water, and aluminim sheet act as heat sink...

    1 reply

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    For reference, it is the LED driver
    Input voltage 5 to 35V, output 350mA±20mA
    Can drive 1 to 10 1W LED...