Spacecraft have shrunk dramatically in size since the Space Shuttle days and can even fit in the palm of your hand! But long before NASA launches these tiny spacecraft into orbit they put them through rigorous tests and simulations. Every aspect of the spacecraft's functionality is put through its paces.
The Cosmoneer Proto Stand is designed to simulate space via a 1 degree of freedom (1DOF) low friction environment. The string "pauses" gravity in one axis (cut the string and it resumes), while a wireless inductive charging coil simulates the sun and solar cells.
This design is intended to be used in concert with the Cosmoneer Proto, a Desktop Satellite Learning Kit, but you can build your own satellite and experiment!
Bill of Materials
To complete this project you will nee d the following
- 3D Printed Parts
- 5v Wireless inductive charging coil set (coils are 38mm X 2mm high)
- 5.5 x 2.1mm Femaile DC power socket
- 12V DC 1A A/C power adapter
- 4" Tie wraps (Qty 3)
- 2' String
- Bead Necklace Hook (or equivalent)
The other half of this project is found here:
Step 1: Print the Parts
Print the 3D parts found here:
ABS Plastic works best, but you can get by with PLA.
Step 2: Assemble the HangerArm
Align the upper and lower arms and press/hammer the locking clips into the alignment holes.
Step 3: Modify the Power Socket
The power socket holds the charging coil into the cover, and once soldered to the PCB, holds itself in the housing. To prepare this part for assembly, you need to bend the longer lead about 30 degrees towards the shorter lead, as shown in the pic.
Step 4: Modify the Wireless Power Board
Before you can assemble the wireless power unit, you must remove the wires from the PCB. You can clip the wires using wire cutters or you can unsolder them. One removed, you are ready to assemble the wireless power module.
The board you need to modify is easily identified as the board with components on both sides, as well as it's more square-ish shape.
Step 5: Assemble the Wireless Power Module
First, insert the board so the ICs are face down and the coil and its leads are facing the side of the housing with the socket opening. With one hand holding the board in place in the recess in the housing, insert the socket into the opening with the straight lead in the middle of the housing and the bent lead facing the outside edge. Push the socket into place so that it holds the PCB down and the leads are over the solder pads where the wires once were (on the other side of the board.)
Keeping the socket pushed in as far as it will go and with the PCB still secure in the recess, solder the socket leads to the corresponding pads on the PCB using a soldering iron. Make sure you have no solder bridges between the leads!
Bend the charger coil and leads back over the PCB so the wires rest in the two recesses in the rim of the housing.
Step 6: Attach the Coil and Housing to the Hanger Arm
Carefully insert the power coil into the notch in the charging arm. Make sure you do not force it, as this may move the coil wires out of their tightly wound positions.
Insert the coil at an angle, then slowly rotate it so that it slips into place. Once the coil is secure, rotate it around so that it appears like the photo above.
You can now attach the power housing to the hanger arm.
Step 7: Attach the Bottom Plate to the Hanger Arm
Identify the correct slot in the bottom plate to insert the hanger arm's peg into. If you're 3D print was nice and clean, your parts should fit together nice and snug. Once the parts are assembled, loop the tie wrap from the bottom of the plate and pull it tight. Clip the excess from the tie wrap.
Step 8: Attach the Front Legs
Using a similar method to attach the coil to the hanger arm, take each leg and with a slight angle between the parts, slowly fit the leg to the coil. Do this for each side of the hanger, making sure the legs are close to their final positions.
Once both legs are attached to the coil and are aligned with their slots, insert the leg posts into their respective slots in the bottom plate.
As with the Hanger arm, loop a tie wrap from the bottom for each leg and pull them tight. The zip-tied assembly should look like the photo above (without the feet.)
Step 9: Attach the Feet
Press the feet onto the outermost posts on the bottom of the hanger and the front legs.
Step 10: Assemble the Spool and Hook
If your 3D prints came out perfectly, then you should be able to loop your thread through the hole in the spool and tie a knot in it. If not, then you will need to drill a hole in the spool where a hole should have been.
Once the hole is clear, thread your string through it. Tie a knot in it and pull the knot towards the center of the spool.
Tie your hook onto the opposite end of the thread.
Trim the excess string from your knots.
Hold your spool so the peg points towards the ground. Now, take the string and loop it around the spool in a counter-clockwise direction.
Once the string is wrapped around the spool, insert the peg of the spool into the waiting socket at the top of the hanger.