I have wanted to make this costume for a while now and finally had time to make it. I will go over as much detail as I can I documented as well as I could while I was building it. I copied the outfit mainly from one good image I was able to find on the internet.
Step 1: The Materials
- Brown suede (about 1 1/2 yards)
- Maroon cotton material (about 6 yards)
- Blue cotton material (about 1 1/2 yards)
- White piping (about 12 yards [4 packs])
- Gray upholstery material (about 2 yards)
- Corset boning rods
- Eye and hooks
- Belt buckles (2 heavy duty & 3 light duty)
- Leather brads
- Wooden beads
- Plastic lanyard
- A lot of time
- Simplicity Pattern 4059: http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx
- Butterick Pattern B5580: http://butterick.mccall.com/search-pages-624.php?search_term=5580&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
- Butterick Pattern B5371: http://butterick.mccall.com/search-pages-624.php?search_term=5371&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
- A Serger
- A Sewing machine
- Leather working tools: Leather shears, leather knife, leather stain, leather glue, and leather hole punch
- Dremel tool
Step 2: The Coat
For the cloak I used I used a patter from Simplicity; it was the Renaissance collections men's costume here is a link: http://www.simplicity.com/p-2089-men-costumes.aspx
I used the *** pattern. It was heavily modified, the coat was lengthened, the sleeves were made larger, the neck was pulled down to run straight, a blue stripe and piping was added to the pattern as well.
The belts that are on the arms are made of suede and used the light buckles. The belts were made after the coat was completed, the left arm has the two longer belts and the right one has a short belt on it so the sleeve can be cinched up so the bracer and guard can be seen.
As for the other parts of leather they are held on by snaps so they can be removed of the coat ever needs to be washed. The snaps with be the very last thing you will add to the coat. You will have the free hanging leather pieces on the right side, and the other two will be attached to the should guard.
Step 3: The Shoulder Guard
I made the shoulder guard from a thick piece of leather I studied multiple pictures of the design on the internet.and drew it onto a piece of paper, cut it out and traced around it to transfer the design to the leather. After it was transferred I had to score the leather with a leather knife to ensure the design stayed. Once I finished cutting it I used a leather tool (spoon and pick) that allowed me to compress the leather to make the design stand out more. Once that was finished I stained the leather a darker color to emphasize the design even more. After the stain dried, I cut 3 different V notches into the leather at the top and stitched them together to cup the leather so it would form to my shoulder.
After the main part of the guard was done I had to come up with a way to attach the guard to the cloak. I used contact cement for leather and cut out some leather patches, these will be the two extra teardrop shaped leather patches, so I would be able to attach square rings to. For the other 4 teardrop shaped leather patches that hung off of the cloak I used snaps so I could remove them when I wanted (you will make 4 total ones with snaps. I would recommend using a very very heavy duty snap more heavy duty then the ones I used. To get the snaps through the leather shoulder guard I had to use a Dremel tool and and wood carving bit to shave off some of the leather to get the teeth in the snaps to go all of the way through.
Step 4: The Belt
The belt was very complicated to make I used two layers of the upholstery and only stitched the sides to conseal the leather belts I had made for addition leather strips. I had some lace that was somewhat similar to the pattern that is on the belt. The best way to explain it is to have a top piece (the one with the colored ribbon on it) and a upholstery piece (the one that goes against you. To make the belt I measured my waist and added 10" for an overlap. on the bottom piece you you need at least 3 belt loops to hold the belts in place. For the top piece you will need to lay the ribbon in a wave pattern and stitch it in place. When you are stitching the two pieces together you only want to stitch around the outside so the belts can run through the middle and through the now internal belt loops. The best thing to do now is to stitch just in front of where the lace stops and then cut the material right after the stitching but before the ribbons to slide the belts between the layers.
Step 5: The Arm Guards
For the bracer there are three parts. The gray part is just what appears to be a wrap on Aurons wrist it is made out of the same material as the belt it just has lines stitched into it. For the brown guard it is made of suede it has fabric that is cut as rows of scales and layered. A strip of velcro is used to hold the guard in place over the wrap. The wrap uses eye and hooks to keep it in place, the glove is pushed under the wrap and keep everything tight. The glove is just a regular black leather glove.
Step 6: The Neck Guard
The neck guard is one of the harder things to make on this build just because there was no template for it. I used the upholstery material again for the color and texture. It measures 32 inches in circumference and is 18 inches long in the front and 14 inches long in the back when laid out flat. The seam is in the back and there are two ridges of corset boning strips running the circumference of the guard as well as two strips running vertically from the bottom corset boning to the top corset boning. The two strips of corset boning that run vertically are to make it rigid so it stands up from my shoulders and cover the bottom half of my face. For the belts on it I just used the suede again and have one strip that runs vertically with one that runs horizontally all of the way around (it is in-between the two corset boning rings and a final one that is shorter and runs about a 1/3rd of the circumference around on the front. The only belts actually stitched in place is the one running vertically and the horizontal one which is stitched at the seam on the back. To get the rest of the belts attached I just used the leather brads and pushed them through the fabric to get them to stay in place.
Step 7: The Sword & Drinking Gourd
The sword I made way back in 2004 when I cos-played Guts from the anime Berserk. I used Sheet metal and JB weld to make the sword I used a hammer and anvil to fold and shape the metal (did not have anything to weld with at the time).
The gourd I made a few years ago as well too. All I did for it was let it dry out, use a scouring pad to rub it smooth, drill a hole in the top and scrape the inside out with a metal rod. To make it where I could actually drink from it I heated up some wax until it was near the flash point and quickly poured it in capped it and shoot it vigorously for a minute until it coated the inside entirely and then poured out the excess. If you wanted you could either paint the outside or use a lacquer to coat it, I let it bare on the outside.
To attach it to the belt I just used some plastic lanyard and some wooden beads. To attach the gourd to the belt I used some twine I already had tied to the gourd.
Step 8: Other Miscellaneous Items
- The leather tears with the snaps and the square rings. a leather brad is holding it all together and a Dremel was used to thin the leather where the snap is going through the leather.
- The covers on the shoes it is hard to explain how to make them but they use the upholstery fabric and just stretch over the shoes with elastic to hold them in place.
- For the shoes, I just used some shoes that I wore when I was a server (did not want to pay for the boots I would only wear once).
- For the rest of the cloths I wore a black tight under armor shirt that I had (a plain black shirt will work as well)
- For the pants, I just wore some black sweatpants with a white stripe on them.
- The sunglasses I wore really needed to be a round lenses pair with no frames, but all I had were some oval shaped ones but they worked just fine.
Step 9: Additional Notes
I wore this costume at work on the day of Halloween, Won the contest too!! \(^o^)/. It is a very warm costume to wear indoors (70ºF), most of the time, besides when the actual judging took place, I actually had one of the sleeves pulled down and off my shoulder, the neck guard off, and the bracers undone. Later that night when my wife and I were out trick-or-treating with our kids the full costume was very comfortable to wear in low 40ºF weather and got lots of comments.