- 6ft of PVC ½’’ thick
- 7 PVC Elbows ½’’ thick
- 4 PVC Tees ½’’ thick
- 1 Foot of Swimming Noodle
- 2 PVC Four Way Pipe ½’’ thick
- 4 Motors with Propellers
- 4 Switches/Levers
- 25 Zip ties
- 40ft of Waterproof Wiring
- 1 PVC Cap ½’’ thick
- 4 Camera film canister
- Wax Ring
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Step 1: Cut List
- 1x 8 inch PVC ½’’ thick
- 12x 6 inch PVC ½’’ thick
- 3x 2 inch PVC ½’’ thick
- 2x 4 inch PVC ½’’ thick
- 1x 1 inch PVC ½’’ thick
- 2x 3.25 inch PVC ½’’ thick
- 1x 1 foot PVC ½’’ thick
Step 2: Assembling the Sub (Part 1)
Material Cut List:
- 2x ½’’ Corner PVC Pieces
- 1x 8in pieces of PVC Pipe ½’’ thick
- 2x 6in pieces of PVC Pipe ½’’ thick
- Connect the 2 corner pieces to the 8in PVC pipe
- Then connect the open ends of the corner pieces with the 2 6in pieces
Step 3: Assembling the Sub (Part 2)
- 2x ½’’ thick Fourway Pipe Pieces
- 8x 6 inch long PVC Pipe ½’’ thick
- 2x ½’’ thick Elbow Pieces
- 4x ½’’ thick “T” Pieces
- 4x inches of Pool Noodle
- 1 roll of Electrical Tape
- 1x 8 inch PVC Pipe ½’’ thick
- Attach one “T” piece to one of the 6in lengths of pipe fitting it to the right horizontal end of the connector
- Now connect one of the ends of the 6in PVC facing vertically to a corner piece
- Insert a “T” piece into the left horizontal side of the pipe
- Add a 6in pipe on the vertical side of the new “T” piece (should look like a "U")
- Four-way piece to the other end of 6in each pipe facing towards the elbow
- Connect those sets of pieces to the sets from the previous step
- When you are finished with the 2 same frames add the last 8 in PVC pipe to connect them together.
Step 4: Assembling the Sub (Part 3)
- 2x ½’’ thick Three Way PVC Pieces
- 2x ½’’ thick Elbow PVC Pieces
- 2x 6in PVC Pipes ½’’ thick
- 4x 2in PVC Pieces ½’’ thick
- Take the three-way piece and connect it to one of the 2in pieces of PVC. It should be placed like the 2nd picture. The end that you want to place the 2in pipe in is the right horizontal side if the top of the three-way pipe is facing upwards toward you.
- Add a 6in long pipe horizontally to the 3 way
- Then add an elbow to the other side of the 6 in facing the same direction as the empty ligament of the three-way.
- Connect those sets of pieces to the sets from the previous step. Make sure the corner PVC piece is on the top of the frame and the 3 way PVC pipe is facing to the other side of the submarine.
- Now attach the two with the almost fully finished frame of the build
Step 5: Assembling the Sub (Part 4)
- 2x 4in pieces of PVC ½“ thick
- 1x Tee PVC Piece
- 2x 3.25in pieces of PVC ½“ thick
- Add the two 3.25in PVC pipes into the two open ends of the 3-way PVC pipe
- Then snap a "T" piece in between those pieces
Step 6: Assembling the Sub (Part 5)
- 1x 1-foot piece of PVC ½’’ thick
- 1x 2in PVC Pipe ½’’ thick
- 1x ½’’ thick Elbow Piece
- 1x ½’’ thick PVC Cap
- Attach the 2in PVC pipe to the elbow piece
- Add a cap to the end of the 2-inch piece
- Now use the remanding foot long PVC pipe and connect it to the other end of the elbow piece
- Snap that part into the hole found in the front middle of your sub in the open end of the “T”
Step 7: The Motors
- 1x roll of wax
- 3x Motor bases
- 3x Film canisters
- 3x Waterproof Network Wires
- 3x Fan propellers
- 3x Sets of stickers
- First cover the top and sides of the motor base with the stickers to prevent water from entering.
- Second solder waterproof network wires to the motor by attaching the black wire to one metal protrusion and red to the other.
- To strip the wires first clip the black wire so that you can see about one and a half inches of the smaller wires inside. Then you should clip about 1/5 of an inch of the plastic coating on those off so that you can see the copper underneath.
- Now drill a hole in the bottom of the film canister and a hole in the lid.
- Roll a small ball of wax between your fingers and put it on the bottom of the canister over the hole.
- On the lid insert your wires 1 inch into the hole and then put another ball of wax around where it came through.
- Push the final metal protrusion on the motor through the glob of wax on the bottom of the film canister and close the container.
- Now super glue the blades from that protrusion (This is the propeller)
- Repeat these steps two more times
Step 8: Attaching the Motors
- 6x Zipties
- 1x Roll of duct tape
- 4x Part 5 Motors
- When attaching to motors onto the sub you firstly need to make sure your motors are leveled onto the sub. You can either use your eye or a leveler.
- Use the zipties to form an X that will hold the motors on like so. Two of them should be facing upwards, one should be angled to the right while on the left, and the final motor should be angled to the left while on the right.
Step 9: Switches
- 3x 1 ft pieces of waterproof wire
- 3x Switches/Levers
- Clip the gray wire (so one can see 2in of the 8 individual smaller wires inside)
- Clip 1/4" of the colored wires to get to the copper
- Make small hooks on the copper of each wire
- Connect the solid color wires to the bottom of the switch (start with blue, but don't connect the orange. )
- Now connect the white/color wires to the bottom making sure that the wires that are white with a color going through them correlate to the colored wires ex.(see diagram)
- Carefully solder the wires to the switch
- Repeat with the same wire order on the other switches
Step 10: The Connection of the Power Source
- 1x 80ft piece of wire
- 4x motors (made in a previous step)
- 1x roll Electrical tape
- 4x switches (made in a previous step)
- The first thing you need to do is repeat the first two steps of part 7 on the opposite ends of all three wires connected to switches and both ends of the 80ft wire.
- Now solder those wires to their corresponding wires on one end of the longer piece, keeping the “dead wire” (the color not being used) out of the way.
- Solder the first motor (the one on the bottom left) wire to the four corresponding wires on the opposite end of the 80ft piece using the same colors of wire that are on all four corners of the switch.
- Repeat this step for the other bottom motor.
- Because the two top motors will be operated by the same switch you will need to repeat step three, except doubling the number of wires, thus doubling the amount of power going to the motors. 35 Now solder the wire pairs coordinating colors with those in the middle of the switches to the power source.
- Finally, using the electrical tape, wind it around the many wire solders where they emerge from the outer plastic of the tether cable.
- Then wrap it in between the wires so that it seals both around and between the wires and forms a seal over the opening to prevent water from getting inside the cable.
Step 11: The Controller
- 1x thin piece of wood 6in long and 3in wide
- You first need to cut your wood 6in long and 3in wide
- Then drill 3 holes 1 1/2 inches away from each other in the middle of the wood (I used a 1/4 drill bit)
- Unscrew the bolts on the switches
- Insert the switches into the holes and then re-bolt the switches to keep them in place
- Label the switches so that you know which motor they are attached to.