Hey fans, I've built another kickscooter. Its not gas powered this time. Its a convertible two position kickscooter. It flips from a standard kickscooter, to a balance bike kickscooter. It does this by pulling a pin, and flipping the frame, then re-inserting the pin. I had entered it in a invention website, but has stale mated with an overseas international patent, and seems no way to get around it. So, It doesn't look like I can profit from it, so I built this for my Grandkids and thought I would share it with the world! My other Instructable was a chainsaw powered, 3spd, belt drive scooter, I built for my son.
Step 1: Batman Bi-Ken Scooter
You can build this one of two ways. The main coolest way, is when you can convert it quickly to the kick bike mode , or strictly the kickscooter mode.
First you start with a standard kick scooter, the larger kind. One like this.
Step 2: Old Style Kick Scooter
I chose a light green one, and took apart the handle bars, and gooseneck. Removed the ribbed top ring and the keyed ring, and bearing. I flipped the frame over and put it back together. So it looks like this.
Step 3: This Is a Bike Kickscooter.
You can stop here if you want, put stunt pegs on it front, and back if you want. I put styrofoam plates over the wheels to cover the spokes. In my Batman one I painted them a fluorescent yellow. Which turned out to be a bit greenish. IMO. But this is a more permanent way. My 2-way Bike/Kickscooter is way more fun. Want to know more about making your kickscooter into a Batman Bi-Ken scooter?Keep following.
Step 4: Now for the Hard Part!
So you want a Batman Bi-Ken scooter now huh? Ok.
This is some of the parts you will need.
2 steel plates 2 1/2" x 8" - 1/8" thick
( they usually come in 2 or 4 foot lenths, get the 4 ft length )
1 steel flat bar at least 1" w x 3' long
2 heavy duty thick large hinges
1 clevis pin
2 stunt pegs
Styrofoam plates at least 4
A Batman logo pattern
A small black plastic trash can
Two strips of rough grip tape/ friction tape
One large stairstep grip, or skateboard friction tape ( I found both right next to each other at Lowes )
Various sizes of nuts and bolts
Next you need to get a sawsall or band saw and cut down vertically just past the goose neck and cut each individual bar. Make sure its parallel with the goose neck. Each cut needs to be as straight as possible. So you end up with a goose neck and essentially a frame. Get two 1/8 inch steel plates and cut it 2 1/2" x 8". And cut a hole directly in the center through both plates. I'd drill through both at the same time, to ensure they are in the exact same spot. The hole size depends on the size of bolt you use. I used a 9/16" bolt which I think I used a 3/8" bit.
Step 5: Drill Hole in Gooseneck and Weld Plates
The next thing is set a 2 1/2" x 8" plate next to your gooseneck vertically, and mark the center of the hole onto your gooseneck. You will next drill a hole smaller than the 3/8" hole you drilled in the plates because you will need to tap, or thread, threads into your goose neck so you'll be able to thread the 9/16 ths bolt into it through the plates.
Once its done check for fit. REMOVE BOLT
NOW weld one plate to the gooseneck, the other to the three tubes. Try to center as best as possible. You might have to clean up the paint on them before welding. So essentially you have a gooseneck with a plate welded to it and a frame with a plate welded to the front of it.
Now here its a bit tricky welding in these tight spaces. Once its done and the weld is cleaned up you can fit them together with the bolt and snug them to the gooseneck. Don't over tighten or you can strip the threads in gooseneck. You will have to determine how short you will need to make the bolt because you have to have room for the mechanical parts inside the gooseneck once its put back together, so they can move, and turn freely.
Now once you have things together you can set the bolt, by trying to spot weld the threads into place inside the goose neck, or not. I didn't in case I needed to change, or modify it some way. Its up to you!
Step 6: So Now You Have a Flipable Frame
The next thing you'll want to do is drill a hole, a tiny bit larger than your clevis pin, so you can slide the pin through the two plates to lock it in down, or in flipped up/over mode.
Step 7: Now the Foot Patios on the Rear Wheel
You can put stunt pegs on the front and rear wheels if you want, but I'm gonna tell ya now. BECAUSE when you hit your ankles on the rear pegs when you are riding it in the down kickscooter mode, its gonna HURT like the worst pain you can think of !! @&$?#%
For that reason I designed foot patios that drop down, out of the way by gravity when the Batman Bi-Ken scooter is flipped over.
So now you determine how large your foot is and cut some of that long 3" plate to the length of your foot, making it smaller. You'll need two plates one each side. Round out the edges front and back so theres no sharp corners to jab you with.
Take that long strip of metal and bend it into a U shape approximately 4 to 4 1/2 " wide in its length. The bend will wrap around the tire and give more support to keep from flexing under your weight. Now here you can save time and some weight. I didn't have any more access to a welder so I had to bolt the hinges and patio (foot plates) to each other. If you have a welder by all means weld them.
Now heres another time saver and weight. If you can get a bigger sheet of sheet metal, cut these as one. The smaller ones are the connections where you put the plate around your axle on the wheel. The holes need to be bigger than your axle so it will rotate or swing loosely. You will also need to make a spacer to fit over it so you can still tighten you axle nut without fixing or tightening you're flip down patios.
Step 8: Hinges and Foot Patios
All hinges can be folded all the way back so they lock or stop to look like an L. This is where you want to position your hinges so that one side faces down and the other side faces straight out towards ya. This is where you need to drill holes or weld them into place, and or, bolt together. You want them to stop, and hang outwards to support your weight, and stop them horizontally. You will then position your foot plates/patios, weld, or drill holes, and bolt them into place.
I drilled holes in the foot plates/patios to enable them to lie flat next to wheel when flipped over and have the axle bolt slide through them. Otherwise it would stick out even further each side.
I also added another hole and large bolt at the rear that has two nuts on it. They are used as a stop to keep the patios level when flipped over.
Now you can paint all parts before assembly. Let dry, then add two strips of that friction tape to each foot plate/patio, and to you deck board on the top side when ridden normally.
I added new tires, stunt pegs and handle grips I got from Walmart. I got the tires at a bicycle store. Better than ones at Walmart!
Step 9: Yellow Wheel Covers and Batman Logo
Now before you assemble everything on the back, or the front, get 4 styrofoam plates and paint them. I used Fluorescent yellow which looks a little on the green side, for visability and as yellow is the current background color scheme behind the Batman Logs now. It was red and other colors. I located some small paper plates at Walmart that had Batman logos on them, and used them as a template for the logos on the wheel, both sides. I cut out the logos from a small plastic trash can, (Walmart about $3), cut them out, and cut a center hole, and placed on the front axle, outside of frame, but under the nut on the axle. There you have it folks. I hope you like it. May BATMAN rest in peace. He will be in my heart forever!