Puck Light Conversion, No More Eating Batteries





Introduction: Puck Light Conversion, No More Eating Batteries

About: Hi, I'm Brad. My interests spread over a large area and I tend to get carried away when something new peaks my interest. I picked up my basic electronics knowledge in bed. Say what? I was laid up after surg...

My wife purchased a set of six (6) LED "puck" lights (pictured above). They are the kind you can stick anywhere for some extra light. This set is even comes with a remote control to turn them on, off, dim, brighten and set a time delay for off. The remote control uses infrared so getting all six lights to respond at the same time can be a trick. We have five (5) in fairly close proximity under a set of kitchen cabinets and controlling all of them at once works out pretty well, just stand back a little so all the lights receive the iR signals. Individual lights in separate locations are not a problem to control. And, if you don't have the remote with you each light can be manually operated (on/off) by pressing the dome on the top. Hmm, sounds like a commercial for them so far, keep reading!

However, and this is a big HOWEVER, there is a problem with these puck lights. They eat AAA batteries for breakfast, lunch and dinner! After putting in 18 new AAA batteries (3 for each light) twice in two weeks I said that's enough of that crap, no more batteries for you!

News Flash:

Apparently there are thousands of these particular remote controlled puck light sets out there. They are being sold across the country at (can I say Costco here?). And I do not believe that the battery issue is an isolated one. As I was writing up this Instructable a friend happened to stop over and was very interested in what I was up to. He was interested because his wife bought the same set of lights and they also eat batteries like crazy. In fact they have stopped using theirs because of the battery issue.

This concludes this news flash, had this been an actual emergency you would have been instructed to ...

So anyway, it's time to hardwire these babies. I opened one up for a look see - the only really important points I guess are that the batteries are wired in series, so the lights are using 4.5v. And I also found not one, but two infrared receivers - one on either side of the puck light. That starts to explain the hunger for batteries as those have to always be listening for a signal. Though I can't imagine the power required would be that great for the IR receivers but maybe they went super cheap and those little suckers are using a lot more than we'd think.

Update: I looked at the spec sheet for a similar infrared receiver - HS0038A2 (no part number is present on the iR receivers in these lights). The power consumption for that receiver is listed as 50 mW. All of my calculators are telling me that a 50 mW draw on 5 V is equal to 0.01 Amps. Which shouldn't be an issue - right?

Hardwiring them was very simple, so if you find yourself in the same position keep reading. But, if it's not worth it to you and you're just going to throw them out, my mailing address is PO Box...

Items You Will Need:

one (1) USB wall charger

one (1) USB cable

small gauge wire (length depends on you and where you want the lights

one (1) 50 gallon garbage can (for all the dead batteries you've accumulated so far)

soldering gun and solder (Side Note: If you solder a lot, look into a "soldering station", it will make your life so much easier. The link is to the one I use and I've had it for 3 - 4 years with zero issues.)


Step 1: USB Chargers, What Else Are They Good For?

In the pic above all of the puck lights are on at 100% (two are missing their tops - no peaking boys). I'd like you to guess what's powering them. Oh come on, try and guess! Fine, I'll tell you - even if the title for this step should have clued you in. :-))

They are all being powered from one (1) USB wall charger.

These puck lights use three (3) AAA batteries each (in series) for a total of 4.5v. The USB wall charger puts out 5v. Those AAA batteries have the potential to supply 1000 mAh (not for very long). However, in normal use they'd typically be providing around 10 mAh. The USB wall charger is rated at 1 amp (1000 mA) which in this case is plenty.

We have the lights, we have a USB wall charger, and we have 36 dead AAA batteries; so where to next?

What do you say we figure out which wires to run where?

Next step please ...

Step 2: Where Oh Where Do My Little Wires Go, Where Oh....

All we have to do is determine the beginning (positive) contact and the ending (negative) contact in the battery compartment and hardwire to those points. If you have the same puck light set from Costco, remove the batteries from one light and look at the battery compartment. Turn the light so that the name "Capstone Industries" is at the top. Your positive contact is in the upper left corner and your negative contact is in the lower right corner. Even easier, look at the first pic above - those are your + and - contacts.

Or get out your multi-meter cause we are going to look for continuity between the contact plates in that battery compartment. With the batteries out, find a positive (+) contact in a corner of the battery compartment (hoping that makes sense), place the multi-meter positive test lead on it. Now, with your multi-meter set to test for continuity, probe the negative (-) contacts with the negative lead of the multi-meter. You will find continuity ONLY between the two plates (+ & -) that complete the battery circuit (remember these are wired in series). If you do not find any continuity move your positive lead to the positive contact on the other side of the battery compartment and try those negative contacts again - bet you find it this time.

Or, you could just open it up (as in the 2nd pic above) and follow the positive and negative leads on the board to see which battery contact plate they connect with. These pucks lights where easy, the board is marked + and - with the battery contact plates connected directly to them. Well, that made it simple for me!

And don't worry about any special wiring requirements for the USB wall charger, I didn't even bother to get inside of that because it works fine just the way it is. What I did do though, was to cut the component end off of a USB cable (not the end you plug into the charger please) and used the Red (positive) and Black (negative) wires in that cable to power up my Puck Lights. My USB cable was an older Iphone cable, not a lightning cable. You may need to verify which are the + & - wires in your cable (multi-meter to the rescue).

Step 3: Kiss Those Batteries Goodbye

The first pic above shows you how I wired my puck lights. Oh, I did daisy chain them (the wires from the first light continue on to the second light and those wires continue on to the 3rd and so on) without any noticeable loss of power at the end of the chain.

So, in a nut shell;

1. Positive wire out from USB charger to Positive battery connecter in 1st puck light

2. Negative wire out from USB charger to Negative battery connector in 1st puck light

That's it, your done. That light will work now. If you want the other five lights to work as well just connect the positive and negative from the 1st puck light, to the 2nd puck light and so on.

I did use my rotozip tool to put a slot on each side of the puck light for the new wires. Gets them out of the way so you can put the lights back into their bases. I also zip tied the incoming and outgoing wires together for a little strain relief.

I've included a quick wiring diagram as well, it has two wiring options for you. Mine are daisy chained as shown in the upper wiring example.

And finally, the last picture shows my puck lights back in place. See the wall outlet, see the USB charger in that outlet, follow the wire.

Thanks for reading and I hope you find it helpful. As always, please do not be shy about pointing out any errors or omissions in this Instructable. I'd much rather fix 'em then let it mess somebody up.



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    18 Discussions

    Great write-up! I did it and it was pretty simple.... one question though. My remote turns them off but, not on.. any ideas?

    So I have a question. I would like to put a set of these on the top of my cabinets also and I'm guessing the IR will not work very well there. As IR is pretty direct line of site. Is there any recommendations thinking of removing the existing sensor and wiring it to a location that I could easily point a remote at.

    Would I need to do five IR sensors or could I do one and wire it to each puck? Looking for any help or ideas and thanks for all this great information!

    2 replies

    Hi Jamie, sorry for the slow response. I've haven't looked at these in awhile. I don't remember where the IR receiver(s) are located. I'd assume there's only one but you never know. Yes, I'd do just want you mentioned, place the IR receiver in direct line of sight.

    So my pucks have a single sensor in each puck. So I'm guessing I would need to take each one out and run individual wires from the pucks to each sensor and put the five sensors in line of sight. They are super small so five of them glued together will be basically invisible. I don't see how I could use a single sensor for all 5.

    I have the same lights and the same problem. I put them in a cupboard so the remote was not as useful as it is under cabinets. I removed the IR sensors and now the batteries last for months and months. I just have to manually switch the light on/off as needed. But I think I will try your solution in my wife's curio cabinet!

    3 replies

    Please forgive my ignorance, but how do I identify the IR sensors?

    I have no mechanical/electrical skills so I suspect removing the sensors is the best route for me.


     They are the two little black squares on the ends of the circuit card. You have to separate the two halves of the puck by taking out the four screws. I used a small pair of cutters to clip mine off. This will render the remote feature inoperable but the lights can still be turned on by pressing the light itself.  Bill


    THANK YOU!!! Works like a dream. The weird thing is, I only had one black square, not two.

    Again, I truly appreciate your help. Thank you!

    I've looked on and off for how to do this to some puck lights from Sam's for a while now. Thank you for this! Great job !

    Thank you for this! It works very well. The only tiny little anoyance that I have (which has nothing to do with your inscrutable but the puck lights) is that on my remote I have a "dim" option and when puch the button, the lights flicker. Not much but just enough to notice it, especially early morning. Besides that, it is a great project that cost barley nothing to do! Cheers!

    2 replies

    Yes, I have noticed the same thing. When I get a chance to look at mine I plan on starting with a little resistor at the beginning of line to see if that makes any difference. And if that doesn't work, I'll play from there.


    2 years ago


    I changed the cover photo to a photo of the actual light set my wife purchased. Hmm, wonder what my lawyer is doing today - should probably forewarn her.

    I updated the number of lights in the set from 5 to 6. I forgot about the one we'd put in another cabinet.

    I added some minor info on iR receivers, the power they draw

    And I added a final picture showing my puck lights installed up under the cabinet again.

    Good idea, but in step 3, second image you got the effects of parallel and in-series wiring reversed. Parallel will keep the voltage the same but increase the current (amperes) while with in-series the voltage increases and the current stays the same.

    Btw. current (what you call Amperage) is measured in A not Ah. Ah is Ampere hours - this defines how long (how many hours) a current can be supplied.

    So an Ah rating makes sense for a battery, but not for a mains powered USB charger. That will provide a current of x Ampere for eternity (or at least unitl something brakes). So in the third image you should replace the 1000mAh with 1000mA (or 1A)

    2 replies

    Again, thank you. The updates have been done.

    Thank you for the clarification, I appreciate it and will correct those.