These cyclettes will give women who would cycle in a skirt the assurance that they are not revealing more about themselves than they wish.
I have a dark pair and this light pair as they are also very handy for wearing under full skirts on windy days, while climbing trees or doing cartwheels..
Step 1: Terminology
Omit this step if you have some sewing experience.
Right side: the side of the fabric that you will see when the garment is completed.
the side of the fabric with the most visible pattern.
Grainline or straight of grain: the lengthwise direction in the weave of the fabric. The grainline is parallel to the selvage.
The grainline on the pattern piece is indicated by a solid black line, usually with arrows on either end.
Selvage: the finished edge of the fabric.
Pins: are used to hold the two pieces of fabric together and are placed perpendicular to the seam. If you are using a regular sewing machine, sew over the pins but remove before sewing with a serger.
Fabric marker: a non-permanent method of marking fabric.
Step 2: Assemble Your Materials
Choose a pattern for a loosely fitting pair of shorts and a lightweight breathable fabric. I use a rayon lining fabric.
Ensure pins, a measuring tape, scissors and a fabric marker are conveniently located.
Step 3: Layout the Pattern Pieces
Place your fabric right sides together with the selvages even, and lay the pattern on keeping the grainlines parallel to the selvage.
Because I do not want an inseam, I have placed the pattern pieces very close to each other with the top of the inseam at the crotch almost touching.
Cut out the two pattern pieces as one piece, including all notches. I cut the back slightly higher than the front so it would not gape if I leaned forward.
*In this instance, I wanted to use the selvage as the hem, so I have the grainline perpendicular to the selvage.
Step 4: Mark the Back Pieces and Pin the SIde Seams
Mark the back of the pattern using a washable fabric marker or another non-permanent method. This is important if you are using a serger to finish your garment; the identifying notches will be removed when you finish the seams.
Separate the two pieces of the pattern, and pin the side seams of each piece, right sides together, using the notches to line up the pieces.
Step 5: Sew and Finish the Seams
Sew the side seams and finish the top and bottom of each of each leg.
Turn one leg inside out and place one leg inside the other so the right sides are together. Sew the center seam.
Make a casing for the elastic around the top edge by folding the top edge down the width ot the elastic, and pin in place. Sew, leaving an opening in the back to insert the elastic.
Iron the seams flat.
Step 6: Threading the Elastic Into the Casing
Choose a piece of elastic that fits, slightly stretched, around your waist with one inch extra for overlap.
Pin a safety pin into one end of the elastic. Thread it into the opening in the back of the casing. Push the pin into the casing using the safety pin to guide and pull the elastic through. Be sure to pin the opposite end of the elastic to the casing so it is not pulled inside.
Sew the two ends of the elastic together to close the loop.
Pull on the sides of the casing to distribute the elastic evenly.
Step 7: Finishing
Sew the back of the casing closed.
Sew a short seam in the middle of the elastic to keep it from twisting, stretching the elastic as you sew.
Turn up the bottom of the legs one inch and hem. Iron the hem flat.
Remove the mark indicating the back piece and wear.