Intro: Bike --> Electric Bike
Many people buy their electric bikes, but few realize that they are quite easy to make. This Ebike is a project that pays off well and can go at a consistent speed of 16 mph for around 6 miles nonstop. You will learn how to modify your bike into an Electric bike. While you would normally have to buy a conversion kit for around 600$ dollars, this instructable only costs 55. Give it a try!
P.S. You might see our doggie in the pictures; he wanted to be on Instructables too!
P. P. S. If you are too eager to see how it works first, scroll to the bottom and watch how this amazing Ebike runs!
While you're here, remember to vote for me in the Fix-It contest and New Author contest. The little vote button is on the top right corner!
Step 1: Materials
The stuff you need....
- *2 12V 7.5 Ah batteries ( https://www.ebay.com/i/232182900590?chn=ps&dispItem=1)
- Motor (24V / 250W) and higher (A good example of this would be a motor from an old vacuum. Chainsaws, Sanders, and fans would also work well.)
- A piece of wood that extends 2 inches left of the seat and one inch right of the back tire. (My piece of wood was 20in by 7in )
- Charger to charge the batteries (https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Scooter-Battery-Charger-Adapter/dp/B012W8I44G)
- *4 Zip ties ( https://www.ebay.com/i/190474436879?chn=ps&dispItem=1)
- 2 metal cylinders with 1/2 inch diameter (I used a broken beach umbrella pipe) The pipe should reach from the middle of your back wheel to one inch above the back wheel when you lay it vertically.
- *5 2cm screws, *2 2 inch screws, *6 1.5 inch screws, *4 Hillman 1/4-inch-20 x 1-1/4-inch Bolts, *4 Hillman 1/4-inch-20 Nuts
- 2 1/2 inch scooter wheel
- Control Module ( https://www.ebay.com/i/231220487431?chn=ps&dispItem=1)
- Clear plastic box with lid that matches your wood size (I used one that was 13width*7length*4height
- Your Bike
In all, I spent 55$ buying all the stuff I needed! Much better than 600$!
Step 2: Wood Panel
The next step is to make a wood panel that will hold up your batteries, motor, and control panel, and not be too bulky either. This step is probably the trickiest because for every person it is different.
The wood should be sturdy enough to support about 8 pounds, and should also extend 2 inches left of the seat and one inch right of the back tire. KEEP IN MIND THAT YOUR MOTOR NEEDS TO HITCH ONTO THE LITTLE LEDGE(Shown above in pictures).
Next, use a chainsaw or table saw to cut out your shape. I used a chainsaw so that I didn't need to keep adjusting the table saw. After that, sand your piece and make sure there are no rough edges. Hence(I'm running out of words), use a 1-inch drill bit to make a hole in your piece. My hole was 1.5 inches from each side, and the hole was 1 inch.
Step 3: Attaching the Hitch and Stabilizers
First, take off your seat completely, (shown in the video) and place wood with the drill hole in it. It should be pretty easy to push in. Some bikes have reflective lights that will glow when a light is shined on them, but if it stops the wood from going all the way out, just take them off. (And don't drive at night anymore.) lol....... After that, screw in two of your 2-inch screws as shown in the pictures. Try to use your toughest screw, because you are drilling through metal. Make sure that your wood is on tight because there is no going back. After that, take your scooter wheel and remove the axle that runs through it. (Your new axle will be the motor instead.) Once the axle is out, it should be very easy to push it onto the motor.
Next, you need to add the stabilizers. Take your two metal rods and your 6 1.5 inch screws. These metal bars are what will hold up the weight of your batteries and control panel. Start by hammering the ends of your pipe to make them screwable(Did I just make a new word?) Then, take one of your screws and drill it through the rod, and into the metal piece on your bike that holds the wheel in place. Then, drill two more screws through the other side of the pipe and onto the top of your wood piece. If <-THAT all sounds like a bunch of nonsense, read it aloud, and if it still sounds like nonsense, look at the pictures. I'd suggest starting with the pictures actually. Once you have that for both sides, you are done with this step!
Step 4: Mounting the Motor
Mounting the motor should be fairly easy if you cut the wood right. Take your bolts and nuts and screw them into the wood. You should have four of each, and it doesn't matter where you screw them, as long as they hold your motor in place. Even though we aren't in this step yet, try to make the scooter wheel match with the tire of the bike. The connection should be tense. A good way to make tension is to deflate the wheels first, then attach the motor, then inflate the wheels again. This is how the bike moves, and the scooter wheel needs to be perfectly aligned in order to make the bike move straight.
Step 5: Mounting the Box and Throttle
Yay! You're almost done! All you need to do is the electrical stuff now! Take your clear box and map out some points to screw the box onto the wood. Using your 2 cm screws, drill through the bottom of the box and into the wood.
Next, take your throttle and attach it to the handlebars of your bike. Keep the stray cod tight because you don't want it to tangle on the wheel. Use your zip ties to attach that cord to the bike, and lead it to the clear plastic box.
Step 6: Control Panel and Switches
I used an old electric scooter with a rusty and tangled control panel for my bike. However, you can buy a new control panel(Link in materials above), and not waste so much time untangling all of it and figuring out what plugs in where. The manual that comes with the panel should have all the instructions on how to plug it into the switches. I drilled holes correspondingly to match the outputs on the wires. There should also be a plug in for the throttle cable. It is very self-explanatory with the instructions. Next, I drilled a hole into my plastic box to fit the charger input adapter. This also comes with the control panel, along with the on and off switch, and reset button. Drill or cut holes into your box to fit the switches in. Make sure they are tight because it's hard to reconnect them after you insert the batteries.
Next, insert your batteries. I had so much trouble with this, and almost got shocked several times because I kept short circuiting the batteries. Luckily, you don't need to go through the same thing. On your control panel, there should be four loose cable ends. Two are long and two are short. Two are black and two are red. Place your two batteries into your plastic box, and Plug the short red plug to the red input on the first battery. Plug the short black plug into the black input on your first battery. Plug the long red plug into the red input on the second battery. Plug the long black plug into the black input on the second battery. It would be too confusing to show this with actual pictures, so I drew it out on my computer.
Finally, cover up your box with the lid when everything is securely in place.
Step 7: Charge
Plug in your charger to a power outlet, and then to your scooter. Wait for 8 hours, and you are ready to go! Make sure you try to run your scooter as low as you can before you charge it again. Otherwise, the battery life span will shorten.
NOTE: IF YOUR BATTERIES ARE NEW. THERE IS NO NEED TO CHARGE THEM. THEY ARE ALREADY READY FOR USE!
Step 8: Let's Ride!
Yay! Congratulations! Woo hoo! You are officially done! Now, you can take your bike out for a hearty, satisfying ride.
Please tell me if I can do anything to improve my instructable. This is my first one, so anything helps. Thanks so much for reading this instructable and please vote for me if you get a chance. The vote button is calling..........