Introduction: Black and Decker VPX Battery Pack Rebuild.

By dancingrabbits.org
About: No longer working, but was a specialist maintenance worker when I did. Masters Electrician Lic. and Assoc. degree in Computer Networking. Had a fiber optic license but gave it up when I quit working. Repair co…


A few years ago I bought a VPX tool system. For $50 it had a powered screwdriver, a reciprocating saw, a drill and a light plus a charger and one battery. I use the power driver the most as it has a very low profile and can get into some tight spaces. I added another charger and three batteries to the system. This year they all conked out. I requested testing info from B&D and got a reply of  "Plug the battery into the charger, wait 30 min. and feel to see if its warm". This didn't answer my question at all, so I started my own investigation into the testing methods.

Tools needed: small straight blade screwdriver to undo the clips, soldering iron, Volt/Ohm meter, needle-nose pliers.

To test the battery set the VOM to DC Volts and check between the two larger terminals (A and B). You should get around 6VDC, but a reading is what you are looking for. If its 3VDC or less, you need to check both of the cells to find out which is bad. With the pack facing you the three small terminals should be on the bottom. Use terminals A and E, then B and E. They should read around 3VDC each. If not one or both of the cells are bad. They will also spot weld terminals to the battery for just a few pennies more. This will come in handy when you rebuild your pack.

To replace your pack with a new one will cost you $20 and up. This site (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200598283959+&clk_rvr_id=248358621899&item=200598283959) has a four pack for around $10 at the time of this posting. You can find other deals by searching for A123 batteries. THEY DO MAKE A NON-RECHARGEABLE A123 battery, so be carful you get the right kind.

To start. remove the label from the battery. it should come off in one piece. You can put it back on later if you store it somewhere the tacky side doesn't get damaged, but you don't need it after the rebuild so don't worry if it gets damaged. With the label removed you can see the clips that hold the pack together. You only need to un-clip the side with the terminals by lifting the tab up with the small pliers.

The battery and terminals should just slip out. DON'T TEAR OFF THE WRAPPER! Once the wires are cut the wrapper will slip off and can be reused. The welds can be pulled off with the pliers, but if you buy the ones with terminals you can just clip them. Remember you will be soldering these wires back on to a new one, so cut them as close as you can.




Step 1: Testing


Tools needed: small straight blade screwdriver to undo the clips, soldering iron, Volt/Ohm meter, needle-nose pliers.

To test the battery set the VOM to DC Volts and check between the two larger terminals (A and B). You should get around 6VDC, but a reading is what you are looking for. If its 3VDC or less, you need to check both of the cells to find out which is bad. With the pack facing you the three small terminals should be on the bottom. Use terminals A and E, then B and E. They should read around 3VDC each. If not one or both of the cells are bad. They will also spot weld terminals to the battery for just a few pennies more. This will come in handy when you rebuild your pack.


Step 2: Disassembly

To start the rebuild/repair, pull off the wrapper from the pack. It should come off in one piece. Save it for replacement after the repair.
There are two clips holding the terminal end on the pack, pry them up (Not to hard, you need this piece intact.) I had to use a small flat blade for this step.

Pull the terminals and batteries out. Clip the wires as close to the terminals as possible. I had four packs and only two good batteries. In this case I removed only the bad cell from one and a good cell from another to take its place.


Step 3: Repair

Observing the polarity, connect battery. If you got new ones with the tabs, this is simple. Just solder the leads to the tabs. Make sure it will fit back into the housing when done. If you are just replacing one cell like I did, you need to solder iyt in place. I was going to use Conductive Glue, but was worried the resistance might be too much. For a tempory fix I used Duct Tape to hold the leads on while I finished the job at hand. I used the Gorilla brand because it's a heavy duty tape with extra holding power. If you have never use this brand, do your self a favor and try it out. It's weather and water proof. I have used it on some outside projects and some of it has been there for over two years, still holding strong. So far I have been using this rig for a few days with no problems.

Step 4: Reassembly

Slide the completed unit back in it's housing. If you saved the wrapper you can replace it. I'm a bit lazy, so I left mine off.

Charge it up and you'r ready to go.