Cheapest Wireless 3D Printer - Boltz Megatide




Introduction: Cheapest Wireless 3D Printer - Boltz Megatide

About: Embedded Systems Developer at IOTech World Avigations. Founder at Boltz R&D™. CAD Designer. Applications Developer.


+First Of All , This Instructables had been written By an 16 years old guy...... Not An English Professor , So Please Inform any grammatical Mistake Before Making Fun Of me. :p

+And Please do not imitate any of the logo seen in the pictures Most Of them have Copyrights or at least feelings attached with their respective owners(Mine too).....

+Link Shortening Services are used, But I can't earn a Penny because i am under 18. So this Project is Non-Profitable, In Case some-one points out that.

+Any Of The improvements will be appreciated, either in this instructable or in the machine
+Caution- This machine works on high temperatures(up to 260 deg Celsius ) , be safe and also stick safety stickers if you find some.

+ Update - Since prices on electonics etc have dropped...... i have calculated that the overall price has be dropped by 23.22 $ in Average.


Boltz Megatide- A 140$ Reprap (Incl- Black ABS Filament )

..... With Semi-Recycled Frame and 0 Printed Parts...... which can work out till you print its each and every Part upgrade for more than 20 times ..... and will also work If you don't want to upgrade into plastic parts..

My Inspiration - Ewaste 60$ Reprap .(You Can find it on Instructables.) .

--------> Why Boltz Megatide for 140 , When you can make Ewaste under 60 $ ?

--------- Because....... it can give you At least 8 X print Area At just a Double Price .

---------> where To get the parts that much cheap ?
--------- Hold Onn , Links/Details will be provided For Each And Every Part .

--------->What About That Frame, Isn't it Like Some Another Model ?

---------- If I Found So, I will give Credits too........PM Me..... And We'll Take the desired Action.
---------> what's In the Name ?
---------Because previously I Made Another Small Printer(Boltz Daydreamer) (Which I hadn't posted Anywhere Except A few Images On Instagram.) Which Had Very Small Depth And This One is an Upgraded One With 7 X Increase In Printing Depth, So From There More Depth .... "Mega"..... and Megatide..... it's sounds Like name Of rock ....... (At Least To me).

Step 1: SpeciFications

+Type - Core XZ.
+Printing Speed- 20 mm/s To 100 mm/s* (* Can Go Further Up. But Maybe can Ruin Print Quality).

+Printing Resolution - 0.05 mm To 0.2 mm (tested With A 0.4 mm Nozzle ).

+Printing Area - 210*210* 290(Your Wish)

+MK8 Extruder.

+Bowden System.

+All Metal Hotend with 260 degree c Capability.

+Frame Material Wood (Mostly).

+Pros - Cheap (But Not More that my Upcoming 60$ Reprap, I promised To build) , Easy to build , True DIY.

+Cons- Doesn't Looks Professional.(But You can make it look professional by building an enclosure if budget isn't a problem for you)

Step 2: Bill of Materials.



1. 0.5 inch Wooden Sheet (Got Mine From a Useless Disassembled Wooden Cupboard.).(70 Cm * 60 Cm)_ (Or You can Get one for Around 5$ or less Or you can use a wooden Table to build you printer upon)

2. Those Support Planks (2.5 inch * 1.5 inch Dimensions x 1 Meter high in total)(Used As Support For Z Axis)(In Pictures) (I've Got small pieces from scrap then I shaped them accordingly).

3. 3 mm Wooden Ply Sheet. (Same as The size of bed 214 mm * 214 mm , and small broken pieces.).

4. Paper Clips

5. Small Flat Metal Pieces (To Support The z Support Structures, To be used as Rod Holders, Hot End Holder).

6. Ply Mica/ Paint (if you wish To Beautify Your Machine).

7. Some Screws, Nuts, And Bolts. (Trust me.... you will have most of them right in your home. )

8. Some Waste CD s (can be used to prevent belt from slipping off the bearing)

9. A (Steam punk type) waste relay.

10. Ties.

11. A 4 mm ID Pneumatic Pipe.

12. Old PC's Power Supply (Or get one for 8$)


---------Non - Recycled . ------------(All The local Retailers from Where I bought , Are In INDIA. but if it's available in India , Then it can be found almost anywhere in this pretty world)------------------(Buy All Parts From Retailers If available )(Link Shortening services are used in links)


1. GT2 Timing Belt

2. Ramps And A4988

3. Arduino Mega

**************************UPDATE 18/04/2016 Link to seller's Website has been added******************************

4. 5 X Nema 17 @ 5.76$ (From This Dealer) .(4.5 kg Torque , Minebea Corp. )

*******************************************Instead of location for ease**************************************************

5. All Metal Hotend

6.MK8 Extruder With Gear

7.10 K Thermistor (0.25$, No link, Bought from A seller In India. Contact For details and Location).

8. 6 X endstops (0.19$ Again From The same seller.)(Optional***)

9. 2 X radial Bearing 8 mm (you can also use more if belt slips off )(0.25$ , Contact For retailer's Details)

10. Smooth Rods (8 mm) (3.84 $) (Don't Buy from Online stores, They are to costly More than The worth , Find A Local retailer Or Manufacturer near you)(If you're an Indian Contact me for store details)
* 2 X 60 Cm Or desired Length (For Z Axis , According to available z support Length)

* 2 X 36 Cm (For Y Axis).

* 2 X 27 Cm (For X Axis).

11. 2 X GT2 Pulley (From the same seller of nema 17).(0.64$ each)

12. PTFE Tubing ID 2mm (You can Use pneumatic pipes to save money and they are cheap too and works well.).

13. HeatBed

14. 2 X stepper motor clamp (0.19$ each , from nema 17's Seller)

15. m6 to 4mm Pneumatic fitting (From A local pneumatic supply shop , 0.19 to 0.25 $)

16. And The most expensive thing according to me...... which can even cost you more than 2 schmittens it's not anything other than an "8 mm Linear Bearing" (1$ Each , you need 13 of them, No matter from where you buy, but I recommend from a seller , at least you can bargain to save some.)

17 . The Fuel - to run your printer - Filament....... Buy any filament according to your needs and budget (Ive bought black abs from ebay @ 16.666 dollars.)

18. 8mm/5mm Threaded rods...with Compatible Nuts.. from a local hardware shop(1.2$) (Show them pic of one, if they aint able to understand what you need, they are often called nut rods or so, but i reccommend to take your vernier and confirm if its 8mm , and also look out for straight rods without any cuts or signs of corrosion)

19. 40 X M4 Screws And Nuts (To screw structures)

20 . 25x M3 Screws (For Motors)(5 Extras)

21 (Optional) HC-05 Bluetooth Module


It will all cost you not more than 125$, And What about That 15$ ?
----- it is The investment to beautify your machine, make it more adorable,for some wires, screws, or anything you feel missing in this tutorial, or make it wireless using bluetooth (HC-05).


Step 3: The Frame.

Get Your tools ready now....... we're building up our great BOLTZ Megatide

You need drill, screwdriver, hammer, maybe soldering iron, epoxy, super glue, nuts , boltz, screws, a saw, metal sheet cutters, nails, some ribbon wires,and you (Off course, How would you build without yourself ? :D )

1. Place the big sheet to make your printer upon

2.install the z support by cutting that thick wooden plank ( at 2nd in recycled materials) according to printing height you need. mine rods are longer than the support because i had shortage of supports but you can use supports and z rods of length according to your needs .Use 8 mm Drill bit to drill holes into sheet to install z axis's rod , Parallel to each other with a minimum distance of 36 cm from each other, giving more space , will increase the printable x length, but you will have to then upgrade your bed accordingly. install the z rods........ they should be parallel to each other , and exactly perpendicular to the y axis which will be installed in next sub-step, you can install y axis first if you wish to.

3.THE Y AXIS - take out that wooden plank once again and cut it into 5 equal parts of 4 Cm each . they will act as support for bed's(Y axis) smooth rods. install them in such a order that these plank should be in between the holes on bed's corner (i didn't , and this was the biggest mistake) use small metal plates and shape them accordingly and then drill holes and use screws to hold the rods with them , use 3 mm plywood drill holes, use springs and screws to install the bed accordingly, install a block to hold the bearing and install it few Cm before the rod supports...... now disassemble the relay and take out the solenoid from it..... now remove the coil from it.... the leftover metal part will act as a bearing holder, or you can use a 3 or 4 cm smooth rod and can install it by drilling into one side of block (The side opposite to which motor is installed on the other side of printer, but they should be linear to each other, by which i mean, when the belt will be installed it should be perpendicular to x axis meanwhile it shouldn't slip out off the bearing.) install the GT2 gear on motor and then motor on the base such that the gear and bearing are linear to each other and the imaginary line joining them is perpendicular to x axis. Then install the belt accordingly. it might take half meter of the belt , make holes on the end of belt using a tiny screwdriver and hammer and then use screws to attach it to the bed. install bearing on your bed..... and you're ready for next step
Once you've built your printer, you can upgrade some of the essential parts for the printer, like hot end holder, fan holder, belt holder, belt tension-er, T5 idler for x axis's bearing.

Step 4: The Heart of Machine (Maybe)

(Actually the arduino is the heart, but it's the heart of it's unique design.)

And Now, The Heart.
The reason Megatide is Different from others

It's WOODEN X-Ends

Get Your drill Ready With A 3 mm Bit, A 14 mm bit and a 8 mm bit
**********************X IDLER**************************

Take the plank cut a piece of length 75 mm, drill 2 holes of 8 mm , separated by a distance of 30 mm between their centers(Or any distance you want just remember to keep the same distance on x-motor end. ) , take a piece of hard metal sheet..... iron will do the job , weld a (Threaded rod compatible) nut on it, make sure that the rod when in nut, it is perpendicular to the metal plate. then on the ends of a strip use a drill to make hole of 3 mm , which will be used to screw it to the shaped plank, after screwing it to the plank , use a 14 mm drill bit to drill through the plank from one side (i prefer left, and away from the x axis's rod's holes) now take two leanier bearings and push them inside the holes. and also keep the screws joining nut and plank slightly(Very very) loose..... so as to prevent z wobble


***********************X MOTOR*************************

cut another part of a wooden plank of length 55 mm, drill holes for x axis, make another nut support, screw it. use a motor clamp to join motor with the plank ,install gear on the motor, drill 14 mm holes for z axis's bearing install bearings then.


*********************X CARRIAGE************************

take one other piece of plank (I Promise, This is the last Time. :p )
of length 55 mm now make two holes through the plank (with a 14 mm bit) with distance of 3 cm between the centers, install bearings

Step 5: Assembly


Join all the parts together install the rods , setup the motors, and stick them to the base using superglue/Epoxy (I prefer superglue, coz it can be adjusted afterwards, by scrapping off)..

*********************HotEnd Holder**********************

Make a hotend holder as shown Above , screw it to the carriage , setup the extruder,


install the bed, wire everything up , as in the ramps 1.4 schematics , install lights, beautify (If You Can, i wasn't Able to.... as you can see. :p ) , wire Everything up

install power supply , to make it work, connect PSU's Green wire to GND, and if everthing goes right...... Start Printing.

Step 6: Installing the Soul

Yup! The soul , it's invisible , but it's always there , and our machine is useless without this, thanks to all the developers, who saved hundred's of hours of every hobbyist, and tinkerer. they are the lord's of our machine's every activity

Your Printer Wont work without it's firmware


Select your Configurations and Get Your Firmware(Repetier) from Here .

And A preconfigured Fimware From Here .

Upload Using Arduino IDE which You can Download from Here .

Step 7: Callibrate and Download the Host

Calibration is an essential step, so please calibrate before start playing with your machine.

Before Printing Calibrate From Here

Get The repetier Host From Here

Step 8: Enjoy

Setup Everything Left.

Power up Your Megatide.

Enjoy You New Boltz Megatide.

Am I Still missing something ? PM me, or reach me at , for Improvements and Help. Or to inform me about any Mistake.

Step 9: Updates


Printable Y Idler , Added to thingiverse



Updated Cover Photo , With a High Resolution One...... Thanks To My Buddy Vaibhav Dhawan , And His Nikon D5300.



Electronics like motors ramps and arduino etc. are much cheaper now then before. please buy the cheaper ones if you find them rather than in the links and save you money.



Updated Disclaimer for the price drops


Robotics Contest 2016

Participated in the
Robotics Contest 2016

3D Printing Contest 2016

Participated in the
3D Printing Contest 2016

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    7 Discussions

    cool akki
    cool akki

    3 years ago

    bro can u tell from where u got those rod in India.


    Reply 3 years ago

    you can get them from any aluminium door maker or try searching for ss rod dealers near you on .


    4 years ago

    so this can use abs? hows the resolution?


    Reply 4 years ago

    Yup.... It can use any material...I use black ABS Supported by all metal hotend...... And it's feature size resolution is 0.3mm and can be adjusted by upgrading the nozzle whereas layer height resolution is 0. 05mm to 0.2mm which can also be upgraded.... By upgrading the nozzle....... For much finer results..... Use a 0.1mm nozzle.


    4 years ago

    Dude! Great write up! Also, thank you for providing the calibration script.


    4 years ago

    welcome buddy


    4 years ago

    Hello, first to all, congratulations. you make something amazing, I want one long time ago, but I notice my imagination is not enough. thank-you for this tutorial, now I believe can make one.