This is the step by step instructions for my previous Instructable "Bow Tatted Necklace". I'm going to take the directions pretty slow so, if you are so inclined, the last step (step 10) will just be the abbreviated instructions.
I work my knots and rings very tightly so results may vary.
Step 1: What You Need and How to Get Started
Here is what you need to get going.
- Crochet Thread (I use size 10)
- Tatting Needle (or Shuttle, I use Size 5 Tatting Needle to correspond to the thread)
- Beads (Mine were iridescent, size 6/0, amount will depend on how long the necklace is, I used 18)
- Jump Rings (2 of them)
- Clasp (1, I used a lobster clasp)
- Needle Nose Pliers of some sort (not necessary, but they help with the jump rings)
I included my written directions that I wrote as I made up the pattern. This necklace is only my second time making it; I made the red one up as I went along. I actually changed one of the counts, but otherwise that written pattern is what I'm going to be describing here.
Okay, to start you need to know how to tat. I would suggest watching TotusMel's video (https://www.instructables.com/id/Learn-Needle-Tatting-1/), that is how I learned.
(I think you will need about a 90 inch tail, but that is just an estimation based on what I used for mine.)
Now that you know how to tat, you start with a basic ring which is 6 stitches. Tat a ring of 6 double stitches and then close it and tie a knot.
*The instructions to follow will show you how to use beads that you add on after you have started, if you would like to do the bead work like in the intro step photos, you will need to put your beads on before you start and keep them by the ball. Then, when you finish the 10 stitches and where you would normally add a bead, bring 3 beads from the ball and treat them like a picot.
R 6 cl k.
(k=knot, since we are not always going to knot it when we close)
Step 2: Bow Leg 1
Next, do 10 double stitches and then knot. (no ring)
Ch. 10 k.
Step 3: Bow Big Loops
Tat one bow with 8 double stitches, a picot then 8 more double stitches. Then close it (now it can get tricky since I experimented to see what worked best for me), but don't knot it, now stitch the other loop the same as the first: 8 double stitches, picot, 8 double stitches, close it and knot it.
R 8 - 8 cl.
R 8 - 8 cl. k.
(Also, don't reverse your work between loops, keep staring at it from the front. I did small picots because they are all for joining and I don't like them to be noticeable.)
Step 4: Bow Little Loops
Tat the loops in this order: Left-Big-Loop, Right-Big-Loop, Right-Little-Loop, and Left-Little-Loop. After trying it differently on a couple of the bows, I found this order to work best.
So for the little loops, they are rings of 8 double stitches each, no picots. Your strands will both be on top after you tie it off.
R 8 cl.
R 8 cl. k.
Step 5: Moving Your Tread
Here is where it gets tricky.
At this point, you have one leg of the bow, two big loops and two little loops on top. We are now going to get both strands of thread in back so you can match the other leg to where the first meets up with the loops.
Take the needle and go behind the little loops and thread it between the big loops. There should be a "hole" between where Big-Loop-Left and Big-Loop-Right meet (as shown in picture 1).
Now the thread from the ball is still in front. Take the strand that is still in the front and tuck it down between the loops and bring it towards the back. Then just tie the two threads together so they are both at the back and together.
Step 6: Leg 2 and Bead (or Split Ring)
With the legs, work with the necklace (the bows), upside down. In picture 1 and 2 you can see the bow is upside down and the threads are at the back.
Stitch ten double stitches, add the bead, then stitch ten more double stitches. I put the bead on the tail strand. You can either put the bead on the needle (it will have to be able to go off the end of the needle with the thread through the eye as I show in picture four), or, if the bead is too small to fit over the needle) stitch ten double stitches, pull them off the needle as if you were going to finish it, but don't knot it. Take the thread out of the eye of the needle and thread on a bead. In picture five you can see that if you do it this way, you will need to do your next ten double stitches, but leave a bit of thread to go around the bead. You can see in the final picture where there are stitches, then the bead (with thread going along the bottom of the bead) and then ten more stitches. Now you can knot it.
Ch. 10 bead 10 k.
Another option for this step, that I haven't tried yet, is to do a split ring 3/3 instead of a bead. The point of the bead is to distinguish between the bows and really is only necessary if you have or like beads. I like beads.
Step 7: Continue the Bows - Join Big Loops
From here on, the bows are all done the same except the big loops are: 8 double stitches, join to Left-Big-Loop on first bow, 8 double stitches, close, then do Right-Big-Loop as before, 8 double stitches, picot, 8 double stitches, close, knot. The little loops are always done the same.
R 8 j 8 cl.
R 8 - 8 cl. k.
R 8 cl.
R 8 cl. k
Step 8: Finish the Tatting
Once your necklace is long enough (my red one has 16 bows, and this one has 19, so the length will depend on how long you want it) you will need to end the last leg. It ends as the first began with 10 double stitches, knot, ring 6 double stitches, close, double knot, and hide the ends.
Ch. 10 k.
R 6 cl. dk.
Step 9: Finish the Necklace
To make your necklace complete, put a jump ring on the picot on one bow and then put a jump ring with a clasp on the other open picot on the other end bow.
If there is any confusion, please comment and I'll do my best to answer your questions.
Step 10: Quick Directions
- R 6 cl. k.
- Ch. 10 k.
- R 8 - 8 cl.
- R 8 - 8 cl. k.
- R 8 cl.
- R 8 cl. k.
- move threads to back
- Ch. 10 bead 10 k.
- Repet 3 - 5 except join the first ring in 3 to the previously done second ring from 4
- Ch. 10 k. R6 cl. k